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The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, January 10, 1909, Image 12

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85066387/1909-01-10/ed-1/seq-12/

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NO present day accomplishment,
however trivial It may seem at
a glance. Is omitted from the
curriculum of the fashionable
young girl, if that accomplishment en
hances her charm and beauty an 4 adds
to her grace and general attractiveness,
as well as extends her mental horizon,
for the young girl of birth, social posi
tion and wealth must be developed'
along every line. The old fashioned
idea of instructing all girls In a sort of
drawing room accomplishment, in
teaching them the gentle art of singing
ballads, in twanging tunefully on a
harp or guitar, or in fingering a fa
vorite nocturne oa the piano, had only
one object in view, that of "showing.
oST' youthful talent and girlish pleas-,
ures. Piano instruction meant" only
teaching the art of reading musio and
rendering it in an acceptable fashion;
singing was singing pure and simple,
with never a thought of chest develop
ment and improvement of the physique;
but now the other side of these musical
accomplishments is given attention and
consideration, and the element of physi
cal development enters Into each and
every course so largely that music and
music, tone and temperament are prac
tically complementary.
Every girl learns to sing. It may be
that she possesses a rare and beautiful
voice — though the world, even the fash
ionable world, produces comparatively
few of these^ — but whether she is a sec
ond Melba or the owner of a harsh and
unmusical voice, she Is taught to sing,
to improve the quality of tone of her
notes, and incidentally she is instructed
in the poise of her body and to breathe.
Singing teachers would probably hesi
tate to admit that they belong to the
class of physical culturlsts, but there
Is no denying the fact that a properly
trained voice almost invariably means
a. properly developed chest, with a
knowledge of breathing and standing
that makes for health and strength. Al
most the first thing a einglng teacher
does when a new pupil stands before
her Is to show the girl the incorrect
ness of her position. Position comes
before tone, one might almost say. The
practiced eye of the teacher knows how
Impossible It is for any one, even the
greatest eicgers, to produce a perfect
tone when standing with the epine
curved, the chest cramped and the head
drooped. The singing or the speaking
voice which emanates from a girl as
suming such a posture Is most un
pleasant, while the girl herself can
rot be otherwise than unattractive.
So the first lesson In singing is a
physical culture one — the pupil Is
taught the correct standing position.
She is given demonstrations of the
ercat difference poise makes -in the
voice. She learns how to balance the
body in a straight yet graceful line:
she is instructed in the correct method
of expanding her chest, not by draw
ing the abdomen in and pulling the
Fhoulders back jerkily, but as singers
expand, from the diaphragm and by
lifting the chest. An average speak
ing voice can n.ot fail to possess reso
|\ | OT only is a fat girl gro
•• |\ I tefique," whispered the April
1 \J grandmother, discreetly
' shielding her smiling mouth
with her fan, the while her eyes fol
lowed the slow movements of a flesh
laden debutante, "but she is an in
fallible prophecy of her -womanhood.
She is also a reflection of her present
hauits of exercise and diet, for to the
lack of the one and tho indulgence of
the other surplus fat is usually due.
During the years in which a girl is
attaining her maximum stature she
naturally is at her slenderest, as na
ture rarely works upward and outward
a.t the same titfse. Consequently the
p-irl who realizes that she Is predis
posed to stoutness should begin to cul
tivate a thin habit, of physique. It is
far easier to acquire a Blender figure
when one is on^ the Bunny side of 20
than to melt the solid pounds of flesh
acquired by years of sluggishness and
good living. -
•"Fat girls whp long to become thin
should bear In mind the fact that re
duction, like matrimony, is not to be
entered upon 'lightly or unadvisedly,'
but discreetly and patiently, for as
avoirdupois accumulates gradually it
.should be dissolved in the same man
ner. Although patented nostrum ad
Boxes for Shirt Waists
.Shirt waist boxes are now deemed
quite as much a part of the dressing
room furniture as its chairs and tables,
so convenient a storage receptacle are
they for many small garments in addi
tion to those for the fresh keeping of
which they were originally designed.
They are especially prized by college
girls, whose wardrobe space is usually
so limited that the stowing away, of
freshly laundered linen and * extra
blouses of a delicate material is some
times a problem difficult to. solve. .
\u25a0 While these box receptacles are now
made in various dimensions, the most
practical are of window cmbrasure'sfze,
as they are not only sufficiently roomy.
Graceful Pose Included in the Musical
Education of the Fashionable Young Girl
nanc« and fullness when it proceeds
from a well developed and correctly
expanding chest.
WITH this increase in chest dimen
sions comes a corresponding in
crease in shoulder breadth and an
improvement in the general health. The
girl who knows how to stand and walk
and breathe has provided herself with
one of the most successful weapons
against Illness and age. Every correct
inhalation and exhalation means health,
and health means beauty and happiness.
Singing teaches girls self-possession.
It makes them sure of themselves and
sure of their voices, and some day they
may be called upon to speak before a
Large gathering when stage fright
might seize them If they had not early
been taught self-composure and how to
command the voice. It is a pleasure to
listen to a woman who makes a grace
ful and melodious speech of thanks or
appreciation; yet there probably never
was one \u25a0who could do this who had not
studied the art of breathing, standing
and of voice pitch. English, women of
wealth and fashion are ' frequently
called upon to address gatherings of
tenants, and it may be that the Ameri
can jrirl of the rising generation will
vertisements arc liberally illustrated
with the hideous extremes of 'bo
fore and after' taking obesity cures,
the girl who gets rid of lier flesh by
such means runs the risk of seriously
undermining her health, as quick re
duction methods are frequently breed
ers of many diseases.
"The Spartan form of reduction, the
semistarvation method, will rapidly
dissolve flesh,' but, by causing dyspep
sia, it is liable to transform the pink
roses ot youth into' the yellow ones of
age as well as to plow furrows
about the eyes and mouth. Therefore
it is well for the f-at girl to draw a
sharp line between dieting and.starv
ing, being certain that whatever food
she takes is of nourishing quality, and
rememberinsr that it 'is. far wiser to
have half a dozen light meals each
day than go for hours without an
atom; of ; food' and , then satisfy the
pangs of hunger by overloading the
stomach with whatever is at ; hand.
"Because the Turkish bath — in mod
eration — has been recommended,, as a
means of reduction, nonSe girls, overdo
it to such an extent that they not only
resemble skeletons, but; become almost
as limp as those unsightly.: objects.
Great . attention, however, should 'be
paid to dally baths, which 'should be
of precisely the /right* temperature—
either exceeding warm or icy cold.- Hot
water is- necessary, to cleanse the; body
to accommodate hats' of generous pro
portions, but also.; form* a substantial
seat. . ; The , printed' cretonne ; covered
boxes, although exceedingly ornamental
and in harmony .with a chintz or Blmply,
decorated chamber, are not . now , con
sidered so smart looking; as are . those
covered with, plain, dark huedrdenim.
These latter, are; often; attractively
brightened wlth-brass .'or. plated; silver
triangular pieces'set over, their various
corners, and sometimes have match-;
ing metal nailheads studding their gimp'
bound edge£H^^ESßßKiMi^B^SHflßM!
More substantral. looking; than ; th«
cretonne : and denim :. covered 1 boxes . are
those of ;;• natural f • wood -'I covered \u25a0 with
willow," and : bamboo : bask^£
These' usually stand ion short caster
fitted, legs; arid "have .;ltds
which, i.wlicn' raised, : reveal a -compart
ment ;divlded-tray. ' •, - '•'
take part in similar. demonstrations, in
which event she will be more than
grateful for her early voice training-
A well modulated voice is one of the
greatest of feminine gifts. It outlives
beauty, \gayety and; youth; it compen
sates for. many unattractive or nega
tively' attractive qualities, and when a
pleasing, voice is so easy to acquire a
few months' training being all that is
necessary to develop the % r ocal tone,
quality and pitch, the wonder is that
every girl, and boy in every walk In
life does not take singing lessons.
-pHE physical culture, side, of piano
I playing is not so apparent, and
yet position is quite as impor
tant as technique. It Is impossible for
a girl to sit bolt upright, with shoul
ders squared and" chest uplifted, when
rendering an instrumental selection.
The pose is not only awkward, but im
possible to hold while playing. At the
same time the pupil is not permitted
to stoop^aml sit in a hunche,! up pos
ture because the other one i>:_ unsat
isfactory. A slight drooping of the
shoulders Is permissible, ami in- bril
liant-selections the pupil must lean a
little bit. forward, as thoueh holding
close communion with the keyboard.
and colfi water to invigorate it, bo that
to koep both, clean and slender the
warm dip should/be taken just before
going to bed at nightj and j the . cold
plunge when • getting out of it in the
"Hip breadth, is, one of the greatest
difficulties with which the" girl; prone: to
stoutnesß : has to 'contend, and partic
ularly-at this; time, I when the fashion
able feminine figure is oft slabliko, pro
portions. To get - rid v of;: the protuber
ances below .the wa Ist . line • a fat : girl
should temporarily divest .^herself of
her • long , skirts .arid ."jher ' dignity, . the
better, to play all the • romping j games
enjoyed .by the .children! ;but especially
the on« which .involves 'kicking* ati a
head high .mark'* on the; wall; o The
fat. girl who j realizes; that i she has ;a
nervous temperament should) not train
down to an -exceedingly,; slender: figure
i f she wishes '\u25a0', to ' protect , herself— and
incidentally; h^i friends— frwm the evil
effects of leaving;thei;neVves^unpro
tected \u25a0;. byj flesh. -It is ; infinitely . easier
to endure the mortification "of avoirdu
pois than nervous which, are
prone to, exhibit themselves»in. urirea- :
sonable : flights " of<, temper. ' Moreover,
the' nervous- system -too;; suddenly.;, de
prived of; Its; fatty }coverlng*is;not slow
to avenge ; itself;- by -thinning ;and; gray
streaking j the; hair arid depriving the
complexion of ,", its- natural j^^ and? inimit
able -pink- and "'white abloom." ; , "
Dori!t Use Pins
Girls, if you wish to be' dainty about
your fancy work, ; discard pins, which
invariably, leave an i imprint r ln\ delicate
fabrics, and use. instead wax* tipped
needles. Such needles' can not be
bought, but are quickly made at" home
by dipping. the eye. ends \ot : fine needles
in' melted wax;' thus 'them ;tlny
heads. As an evening ; pastime dozens
can be prepared;iri ; this, way, using one
color'' or different -colors, of • wax. if - the
riiaker 1 likes artistic 1 variety.' .The; girl
who once uses these dainty^needlee'for
pinning- her fine; work, will" never be
.willingito resort to ordinary.; pins.
Piano playing develops the arms and
lingers; it . k«»eps them supple and ac
tive. Musicians rarely possess by na
Used for Old Laces
rASCINATING jabots, rabats and
bows are worn with the fancy col-
lars of either the straight or point- •
ed top order. #Those jabots accompany
ing morning: frocks are eight inch wide
ruffles batiste, handkerchief linen or
linon, (finished with narrow hand or
feather 1 stitched hems. For more elab"
oratc jabots muslin and Swiss embroid
eries arc employed in the form of r wide
edging- or in the allover finished with
narrow Valenciennes or Cluny, while .
ruffles of chiffon are sHk lace edged :
and those : of net carry Cluny' or prln
cesse. Filet mesh 1 looks best with a
heavy lace edging:, a. narrow eatih bind
ing or one of picqt ribbon.
Any of the finger wide fancy ' laces
make; pretty Jabots which need only be
diagonally frilled upon a mull .of net
band.. 'i- : il-l\-'lS'-i-?' '..\u25a0'•
: Medallions of Irish, Venise or muslin
embroidery are. r set- upon' one corner, of
a; square of .widely -pin tucked net or
chiffon that is edgedvwlth matchlngor-
Valenciennes' lace. . One half ;: of othe
square is 'then laid In j wide - triple box
plaits, so that ittie graduated folds t all -;
over the medallion decorated point.
. Sheer muslin' and net squares
'handkerchief \u25a0 proportions arc singly .
edged with lace Yon two 'sides and
doubly on one side, the remaining edge
"s being fan plaited on to a narrow .band
[ fitted .with a hook, which closes- over
an; eye set on the. collar.
Embroidered, muslin handkerchiefs in
all white or with. line and spray bor
ders in. azure, - ' rose," Nile,- mauve or
maize - are treated in the same ' manner
or- are, cut .up into butterfly. bows £or
four endsvliavin'si cross, knots-: of;, the
\u25a0 same", fabric:; or tiny motif centers.
Muslin - embroidery,; Swiss \u25a0 'and batiste
"cut into scallops' and : points
oak and chestnut leaves and edged with
; lace form; bewitching .little bows, as do
also triangles" of Veriise; oY, ltalian^ roll
hemmed and" finished : with*iace: edging:
Point- d'esprit - and; pineapple ; Vcloth
rosettes ' have edges' finished I with two
rows' of 'pin 'tucks, • and; in ' the same
manner may. be treated' cloth, of -gold
'and -silver, ;,whjle ; = bows "of pailletted
gauze -jarej edged : with' gold or; silver
ribbon. 1 ." \u25a0\u25a0'\u25a0\u25a0 '-' : ,tC' '•\u25a0''''' -\u25a0 v. ' \\. K ] '\u25a0*..
tureall the. lightness and grace, they
desire, and many of them take special
sets of exercises to improve the action
A FEW hints in regard to the form of
address and of closing a letter or
note: , •
Simple "Dear" implies' a greater de
gree of Intimacy than "My dear," as
the pronoun introduces the element of
formality. This is to be remembered
whether it be in addressing a stranger
or; .business acquaintance., when -it
should be- "My -'dear. slr'V or "My. dear
madam."; , ' ,
•• "Tours;trniy" is the commonest form
of closing a business letter.
\u25a0-\u25a0;. "Yours very truly" is a little more
courteous. \
"Sincerely" is a good English word,
dignified: and fitting where the degree
of is slight or of formal
character. -
\u25a0 "Cordially" - K or "very cordially" is
used between friends. and acquaintances
when ;aV more :affectionate signature
would be inappropriate. ,
"Faithfully; yours" is professional
purely,; and | does? „ not signify that | the
writer.^ is devoting himself or; herself
to you personally. - -'-.->-.\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0•. •
.... In .signing "your., name to -a business
letter, if .you are unmarried, prefix your
name with r (Miss) -in: parentheses.- •. If
married"? sign ; either { as' "(Mrs.) . , John
Alexander" or "M. \u25a0 C. -Lounsbury," with
your | married signature, "Mrs. David
Lounsbury,"; written; in the lower left
hand' corner. ; . r .;.,.-\u25a0
~T Under;;! no - circumstances,, though,
Novel Bridge Whist Prizes
The. hostess who -is .in doubt about
what -to select for a bridge whist prize
can. not; go amiss in- providing a piece
of out glass. There arc most attract
ive specimens in the /chrysanthemum
and. cane 'seat patterns- in- the form of
fruit "dishes," spoon \trays and holders,'
sugajv and cream sets, Uargo and; small
pitehefs, \u25a0 olive and almond dishes and
vases. ;\u25a0 Cu t ; glass fern \u25a0 dishes have re
movable silver plated ; linings and salt
cellars are; in \ silver standards. Indi
vidual chocolate- cups of hand painted
china; : with • silver" ; standards make
charming prizes, and s*o do silver,can
dfesticks i fitted -with bewitching little
silk ;.br satin, silver decorated and
Ringed -shades.
:. Then \ there are all sorts of attractive
looking ibelt buckles^ in; Japanese-, and
Indian Vepousse : work depicting scenes
that Include ; the elephant and r dragon,
the -chrysanthemum and iris. Belt "pins
are. J exquisite specimens; of oriental.a nd
! Dutch ; handiwork","'.; hat. pins . of \ sterling
The San Francisco Sunday Call
and delicacy of the hands and fingers.
If a girl's wrists are weak or her
fingers clumsy certain kinds of exer
cises will overcome this. And these
exercises can be taken in connection
with tho regular piano prartice. Even
the frailest girl usually Is possessed
of 'great strength of fingers and wrists,
especially after i«he has spent several
months studying the piano. Yet
strength 'does not necessarily include
Brace, and it is quite essential for the
fashionable younp girl to possess this
attractive feminine attribute. Girls are
taught to play with feeling and with
accuracy, and above all with grace.
This is a showy and entertaining ac
complishment and one that depends not
a little for its charm upon appear
j.nces. We can forgive great artists
nn -unpleasant manner and attitude at
the piano, but we can not extend the
same indulgence to young girls who
lack the divine gift and whose only
Idea of playing is to entertain and
_,LUMSY fingers and awkward hands
i^^tfdo not go with the delicate mech
anism of the mandolin. This po
etic instrument is the very essence of
Krace and beauty. Its every line be
ppeaks grace, its every note suggests
delicacy and gentleness, and the fln-
Eers that grasp the slender curved neck
of the instrument and vibrate the tiny
tortoise shell point must be soft and
dainty and gentle. The mandolin is
one of -the most alluring of musical in
struments, and has be«»n associated
with college clubs s«o long that it has
not been given the prominence due it
in the fashionable young girl's list of
accomplishments. There Is no formal
should a matron sign her married name
to any other than a purely business
note excepting in the last mentioned
For either accepting or declining an
invitation your cue is the invitation it
Ifit is an Informal note, expressed
familiarly, reply in tne same tone: if it
is formal reply with /formality.
A formal invitation is written in the
present tense, thus:
0.... ..".."\u25a0 --o
-.:• Mrs. \u25a0"DB* LANCET :
: Requests the Pleasure of :
: Miss THORNE'S :
: Company at Dinner :
\ : on Monday. January the Eighth, :
:'\u25a0 at Half After Seven o'clock. :
"0......... • o
An acceptance:
0. . . . ::... • • • • - • .....--.«. .©
: Miss THORN :
: Accepts with pleasure the :
Invitation of :
: -„• Mrs. DE LANCET :
'\u25a0: for Dinner Monday. January the :
: Eighth, at Half After Seven :
';: o'clock. ;
©:.. ... .v...^... ....-\u25a0•• — ...... :...<»
An exception to this form, is in the
event of receiving .- a dinner , invitation
from the president of the United
States or from an ambassador.
The reply should . then read, "has
the honor to accept" in place of "ac
cepts with"; pleasure."
and old silver are of French and
American design, set with garnets, tur
quoise matrix, fresh water, pearls and
jade, and there is an infinite variety
of sliver rhaln girdles such as are worn
. with\dir*>ctolre garments..
In brass there are no end of charm
lng>s well as useful,, trifles, including
plain and repousse; finger bowls, trays
of all sizes. small mirrors.. frames, desk
sets, candelabra and candlesticks. The
latter' are .fitted', with candles, upon
which 'are; painted miniature diamond
.and .heart symbols in red, and clubs
and spades in 'black. .
From the orient t come a host of
-fascinating specimens of pottery, in
cluding the bits of Canton'flrst painted
in blurred -design .'by the blind artist
in whose, honor the ware is named.
_ : - " * \u25a0 . . »' . \u25a0
Making the Hair Wave
A" simple, but, most "effective -way ot
making the hair wave' ln the big ripples
which continue to be ; fashionable is
to dampen v it*. and .tie it down ; with
bands of ;baby:ribbon.. . Of course abso
lutely! straight : hair will not .yield to
this treatment, - but ;hair- with the
'Slightest -tendency .to.cum will respond
" beautifully. :."..."
After :the| hair is done up dampen it
with hot water, pinch it a' little; and
lty about the mandolin. It Is not %M
instrument for great occasions nor tot
great spaces, but it Is perfect for small
and. informal affairs. There is a pic
turesquenes*j» about this musical instru
ment which Is possessed by few others.
In playing on the mandolin the per
former naturally assumes a. slightly
bending posture. All stiffness disap*
pears, while tone as well as position
becomes the embodiment of grape and
delicacy. The physical culture' side off
mandolin playing Is more gentle than
that of almost any other musical in
strument. The picking of the flna
steel strings does not develop any
great amount of strength, neither does
the position improve the health in e»ay
noticeable manner. It .is purely a cul
tivator of grace. Half an hour's daily
practice on the mandolin will produce
remarkable chanse3 in the awkward
girl. Her arms and hand 3 are ulway3
a sore trial to her when she is at tho
school age. and though exercises help
they do not always Impart that light
ness and delicacy which come of much
mandolin playing. Besides learning to
be graceful with her hands and arms
the young girl learns how to sit in at
tractive positions and how to ciuka
herself the center of a picture.
VIOLIN playing has its physical
training side. Inasmuch as instruc
tion In this art requires a graceful
and easy position when standing, quick,
light movements of the hand and arm
and a graceful poise of the head. A
girl violinist usually possesses strong,
though delicate and capable fingers.
The cello is another musical* instru
ment of more or less popularity among
the" young girls who are fond of Its
rich, vibrant tone. Its' size may sug
gest clumsiness to the amateur, but
when played properly It is as pleasing
to the eye as to the car. Fancy the.
quickness and fairylike delicacy needed
by the performer in producing all tho
light and deep notes of which, the cello
is possessed: The most prolonged, and.
difficult crescendo on the piano can not
require more activity and crace -with. 1
the fingers and wrists. The right hand
Is not neglected in either violin or cello
playing. This must be able to stow
equal activity, grace and lightness, and
during the playlngr the body is not kepc
in a stiff and unbending attitude. It
sways almost imperceptibly, but rhyth
mically, though it hardly sways either
way, but pulsates with the vibrations
of the mellow tones that come from tho
fine old instrument. %
The harp has always been looked
upon as an Instrument designed espe
cially for the fairy torch of feminine
fingers, and yet not a little strength as
well as suppleness is required in pick
ing the strings. It is not generally
taught to young girls. Only those who
have a preference for the quaint in
strument — girls who sing, perhaps, like
It — but it has its part in teaching
gracefulness of posture and movement.
The girl who is expert on the harp or
the mandolin — in fact, on any stringed
instrument— oan not but be graceful in
the movements she makes with her
hands and arms. So any of these is
well worth the hour or so of daily prac
tice required to give one a fair knowl
edge, of music and musical instruments,
with the added accomplishment of
grace and attractiveness of poise and
An ambassador represents his sov
ereign, therefore an Invitation from
him is equivalent to an invitation
from royalty.
A tea card:
o :. - 1....0
: To Meet Miss JAY. :
: Mrs. ARB UTHXOT. ' :
: «090 Fifth Avenoc. :
: Tuesday. January IT. . :
5 o'clock. :
o -. »
A foreign custom. In vogue among
the diplomatic rorps for tea cards,
which has been imitated by the smart
set. is as follows:
o.'. .*..-.»
: Tuesday. January 5. r
: 4000 Fifth. Avenue. :
: Small Tea 5 o'clock. :
o •
the date of announcement being" writ
ten, not engrared.
A regret for an ont off town \u25a0wedding"
reads: »
0... — - .•
: Regrets Her Inability to Attend :
: the Marriage of ;
: - -on ' January ,24 i z
: and Desires to Present IJer :
: . Congratulations. :
: January 10. 1905. :
then draw it close down to- th« head
with bands of baby ribbon put on In
separate pieces about an inch apart
and pinned very tight to the head.
Leave on for an hour, remove carefully,
then comb the hair gently until it
fluffs out In charming waves of beau
tiful . regularity)
Why Wings Are Popular
If you are clever enough .to be your
own milliner. "sret out your last years
wings, for vrings are all the rajre, and
do not imagine they may not be tresh
enough, for use. for If they have de
fects you can readily conceal them with
According to the mode, all wtnjrs
that stand away from the hat must
-be , net covered. Match the wings in
color "or use white net. a* you prefer,
but get a fine quality. Wash blond
lace is good for this purpose. Cut the
net the size necessary for each wing,
and after enveloping the wing In it
-fasten,; by sewing it with big stitches
down the .1 back. \ „ .
The^sewing of tho seam will show,
but; It la .expected to. and should be
done in a large, rather loose way to
$lye the "effect of having been care
lessly put on as a; protection tor the
moment ;agalnat the wind.

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