The San Francisco call. [volume], January 10, 1909, Page 14, Image 14

About The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913

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Wrappers, Negligees, Dressing Sacques, and Tea Gowns Essentials of the Wardrobe
though one's wardrobe is of necessity
E restricted to as few articles as possible, ,
there are probably no women who do not ;
consider th&t in -that category must be
mmhM included at least one dressing sacque, one
{^t£s£& wrapper, and possibly something on the
jffilOD^g order of a teagown. If the season should
ta " — \u25a0\u25a0^\u25a0^ be summer Instead of winter there could
be two or more of each of these garments in place; of
one for the same amount of money, always' going on.
the supposition that they are made by .:' oneself.',' _' .! '
For practical good service during the cold weather
some light weight, unshrinkable flannel is as good a
material as any for either a aacque "or wrapper,-al
though cashmere, albatross, challis, eiderdown, quilted
eiiks, and satins are seen quite as much. r " But; these
garments are being considered first for real utility,. and
for this purpose there does not seem to be anything
snore serviceable than a good quality of flannel.
The style should be as simple and plain as possible,
which by no means need prevent their being pretty
looking. If one is in business and away from home all
day it is an excellent plan when one gets home to put
on a sacque or wrapper. He down, even if only for ten
minutes, and lie perfectly still, with eyes closed, relax
ing as much as possible. And one can do this much
more effectually If suitably dressed for it, and there
are. of course, almost Innumerable other times when .
one or the other of these garments is indispensable.
Tliey are out of place, however, at any time, outside of
one's room.
Under the general head of negligees there are many
garments which are fascinatingly pretty, ! arid , are made
purposely for wearing to breakfast orto receive in, if
at home and indisposed. -These sacques or breakfast
jackets, as they frequently are called," are generally
made more or less elaborately, and of a great variety
of \u25a0 materials. Any of those mentioned , as, being i used
for sacques and wrappers, with* the exception of flannel
and the quilted silks- and satins, will make up i- prettily;
then silks of .various kinds (often lined with albatross
or nun's veiling for, warmth) are dressy and dainty/.'. -
Where one's house is warm enough thin wash : ma
terials, such as fine French nainsooks or batistes, are
favorite materia Is, and if one feels the 'necessity for It
a separate slip of albatross . or.l nun's . veiling^ may '. be
made. Any of these, materials" will stand', quite elabo
rate trimming, or they may be simply made. Cotton
crepe and the challls that are; part should not
be forgotten among the " less expensive materials,'; for
when these are trimmed with [ lace arid colored \ ribbons
they -can be charralrigly? pretty. T India' silk, makes, up
well and with the addition . of pretty 'trimmings the
result is sure to be, satisfactory. \u0084T ake, for instance,
t- delicate rose colored India silk trimmed with.valen
c!ennes lace and worn over a white or pink lawn, could
there be anything daintier or. prettier? '
If one Is to 'spend an evening at home there can
be no more appropriate -"or. lovelier garment ;to- wear,
than a house or teagown. These can be.niade^ to be
co dainty ' and - becoming, as well : as 'comfortable. 'that
HINTS FOR THE HOME DRESSMAKER
it is " small wonder that \u25a0 they : are considered almost '\u25a0.in
dispensable. .Another point in'theirfayor is _tha-t,it is
a .distinct saving jto a street syit \ not to • wear ; it in -the
house, but to make a change, arid , the - loose ; fitting
garment is -much more restful as ' well " as suitable " to
the house. :\/ . '; ':?.'\u25a0.
While many teagowns , are . really triumphs of skill
they are'so elaborate, both ; in style of- cut; and : trim-;
m!ng, there are many ways ! of. making, so 'they, wiir not
be so difficult to makef. But from'Jthe expensive; models
many a valuable: taint* may.- be 'had.' -A. model in; lavender
."or . blue chiffon- cloth, tucked "and ; trimmed < with" net ; on
which lace designs have been appliquftd, and satin
ribbon, could, be copied in a less : expensive ; material,
suoh as nun's veiling or cashmere-^-the' trimmings used'
being the same. \ 'r^. \u25a0\u25a0'\u25a0'"--• ' :: ' ','\u25a0\u25a0
'. " These garments give an Ingenious woman ; almost an
endless number of ways for; using; up • odd bits \ of •; lace
and other ' trimmings , left from other dresses. ' Perhaps
there, are some good bits of lace, excepting that the
foundation is worn, the best designs of wWch^cknVbe
cut out and put on a filet, or; other 'foundation net and
used in a yoke or collar. Embroideries ; can *,of ten be
utilized in the same way. So much for general^, ideas,
and now to go back to the utility wrappers and' sacques.
Any one of- the three sacques shown on » this ; page
will be . pretty and easy, to .'make /and;; a ; plain 'shirt
waist pattern will be all that I , is necessaryf to "cut? the'
first two of them out by. The one'whichtis^boundlwith
satin ,: ribbon can , be cut from [three 'yards ; of (material,
twenty-seven inches .wide, or . two yards^ of forty-four
Inches./ "The lengths should be /cut '/off, /allowing v four
inches below the waist/, then /lay /. the/pieces ;for -the
fronts together, put /the ' front;; of /a." plain /shlirt; waist
pattern r on ." these pieces 'sb-that'r. the- middle front. /of
the - pattern : comes one Inch- from "the ledge /of • the ,mk
rerial/ The fronts. are cut plain/ riot ; allowing; any extra
fullness • anywhere/ /If. '. the- pattern -\ does ;; not .extend
below- the , waist, • mark \u25a0 a Cline straight . down; from /the
waistline .at ; the underarm"; seam point ; f ourj irichesC m'eas-'
ure straight -but from " this . point vtwb ;j>r. :. three inches,
"and connect" the_ two or/three; Inch ipolntTwUh"!the (under- 1
arm' seam at the waistline -with- a- straight'; line.';? As this
Isa: diagonal dine It .will nieasure more ;than four inches,
sb^it' : must'be : V|orwted : atithe\l^werjedge^by3niea6urinar
at" intervals' across ; the , front, /down { f rpm r the .waistline,'
and; then cut.off,a.t;the^rlght length.;.' / /.' , \u25a0
'.The ; pattern .is set - one ; inch * in ' from '.the edge so as
to allow,: the sacqiie/to lap that amount. ,:\u25a0
\u25a0 \u25a0\u25a0" :"\u25a0.-; ' /'r:V- '\u25a0> : : *;';. .'.' \u25a0'\u25a0\u25a0 .)/••/;.':.;"• \u25a0"\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0:
The. back is .cut \withV a middle back /seam : which
fhould. make It "fit into rj the figure! a "• little/; (To stake [but
the unnecessary 'fullness at" the/ waist; measure; in on
the pattern at the 'waistline /one inch, \ theri^draw/at new
middle back seam by drawing,: a , straight 'line /from
this \ pol nt^ to the • original seam ; at \ the \ neck Vpbirit. . \u25a0 The
pattern is"thenlaid/on. the 'cloth }sb>thkt^ It- tbuchW; the
straight/ of '.cloth. at;^ the rneck; point; Jand'isl one-half
inch 'inV from th»~ straight ; at/ the,; wkistilrier»-,Tiie^ shape,
Jjelbw.Vthe : • -TraJst' is Jmade on bbth" ; seams- of the' back,': the
sain-: as on>hp front. '/ v \u25a0'/" /,'."".' )rej{'3JljjßjjgfiSj
The fullness is " taken • out', of- the fronts by .means'of
one , email - dart \u25a0on \u25a0 each
side. These darts should
not be over two inches in
\u25a0width"" at . the waist and I
probably,;' a' 1 Jttle less ;at -
tions may sound as though the sacque were. to, be; tight
fitting, "but It shquld^be \decidely llobsseiand •will^be If
the^ pattern; Is v the right vsiz^ 4 'and ; these "dlrectlbnsrare
carefully followed.^ .They : were . given C to '*hbw; how, per
fectly A and ;ea ally the U same ' pattern >\u25a0 niay : ; be \ v sed i.- for
different ':. ." :-.'.\u25a0-. ..' '; .-, . ' /fr^®^
> .T 110 , sleeves ; will ; be; pretty made " ; from a shirt waist
sjeeve pattern, gathering the fullness Into; a cuff, or cut
f rom .. a • two Piece ' sleeve ; pattern, -and •; instead of a cuff
simply binding the Vedge^ with ribbon.: ; This sacque
would be wonderfully pretty" made in : a scarlet lor < blue
flannel showing black | dots • and . bound ; with : black • rib
bon, or, prettier still, i finishing the edges ; with' an \u25a0em
broidered scallop done' in ; 'black.V '; . ' : \u25a0"..
. The second sacque is suitable for any of the materi
als-excepting the^ eiderdown (or -quilted silks.' There Js
no middle i-back- seam, the material : being laid on Ja; fold
of the goods. ' Before the 'fronts are cut : out two clus
ters of; tucksT-each of . two .^ tucks-^-are .' put In ; these
extend only, to a yoke^depth. '• The -under/ arm seams are
left? open; itwo finches; up
edges \u25a0 imay i^be i ; eltherV bouiidr jfeather^ stitched, or,-:em
broidered. -There is ':. a, low"; turnover -collar, • arid ;' ctiffs^
corresponding.' in " shape,', finish 'the i 'simple;^ full 'sleeve.
This- sacque •; is "made r ! of •k'-'tan*; colored -cashmere V'with'
no \u25a0; figure,', ; and^ trie"! ribbons iat - the\ neck '\u25a0 and; waist
more brown'j than tan. : - :; 'j : -\u25a0 '\u25a0\u25a0 '\u25a0',/ .'.'^y ~ : '- '•'-'• \u25a0"" \u25a0 •
, The third .'sacque ,Is :'cuf. with the sleeves, and .body,
all ) in ' one and ; if ionej has^'a ilpktternVdf \ a" kiriibnol night
dress, it; wlllVdo^ ftoiicut^this ;by/ ., ; :lt*; is '; essentially -for'
comfort-arid , would! be ".pretty iriiade "of ? a blue; eiderdown"
flannel * bound \u25a0 wi th v satin Vribbon c th c ;; same "; shade. j'iThe
collar- Is a .small /turnover/one.^thei edge 'being bound
; with !the /ribbon, as are '.the edges \of .the sleeves. ,
Pretty > negligee^ suitable <X to;' put :\u25a0] on ;inV bed ; over a
night, dress;, in ; case *ot >• lllriess^V is '/made >of * at delicate
pi^nk ralbatross /trimmed ;.with : a'deeper ; plrik . silk"show
. ing^large^ polka-, dbts/.t'A^ shirt ' waist: pattern - will /do
tojcutMby, and ] twice." the • 'width.^ off each:frbnt and; back
• roust C be '"allowed : when ;_cuttiri"g out., .' lt >is : cut > rather,
low .- in Ithe ; neck arid * rows of .;. shirring » are^put
'in. to- confine \ thVlfullneas/J^The^ackjis^treated^in^the'
same manner, then / full i,i half, | length 2 sleeves '^ are; made
and r snijred^intbf the armhble.VA^ two \u25a0 inch" hem"; is'- put .
ln" f each i'sleeVe^ and fabo^
.one 'and v.orie-half i inches * wide.v ; The . silk V collar] takes7*a'
'sailorXsh'ape ( across? the
shallbV.^V The :.!;^points "JfaH.'!prettily./over' :^the»iedg'es|,of
the arrt holes ' and l " then ; curve i rather abruptly- off *to al-
: \u25a0".'. Several; good;, lourigirigi robes i or ; wrapp^rsfarejalnbng
the"; things , shown ; bn ; this 1 page;- arid^'possess; the < a'dvari-'
tagecof^ .being-^ easyi/tb'-rmak'e. 1 -*- -The/: one \ which -buttons
the • length -of the front j is^made \of iFre*nch7 flannel'-ln [sC
card! nal ' shade,! shbwiriga^ hair \ line of black'at'fhalf Tinch"
intervals.* 1 ? Both; fronts and; back,. '"are. tucked .to yoke
depth <and -from hang, straight and full.
- .^; The bottom t la ' finished .with a deep hem, the 'sleeves
are simple.' full," three-quarter length onesi gathered into
a . narrow cuff. v. The 1 neck ' is : cut in a little square, ' both
back arid -.front/^and" finished "the same as. the cuffs with
a' 1 ; taffeta bias " band.// /
\ ""\u25a0; Such ; a /garment as the - one "just described,; as well
as , the; one? to; follow, can_ be, made i from 'seven yards of
double" width • goods, or eight and one-half yards twenty
seven jlnches ; widel' . / .' . . *
/The second; wrapper -is cut with a bias, middle back
seam, :' and /double -; breasted front. The wrapper comes
Just \u25a0to * the : neck '° line]' across the \ back and ; Is ' cut' in \u25a0 a
sli ght \"\ " / ; In - the • front." . ' 1 1 ' should ." be cut , large and
loose ;,the -same/ as i a night dress is % arid "no shoulder
plaits; will- be' necessary. For and comfort this
- would ;be. fine made 1 of . eiderdown: flannel and .the sleeves
and (neck -'could i be; finished: with: a heavy .quality, of
satin put ; on . in I bands. It' should be made long enough
to rest; on the floor ; air the" way/around. * .
-• ; \u25a0 \u25a0/-/ \u25a0- \u25a0" \u25a0-••*•-'*\u25a0' ' ':r": r "- \u25a0\u25a0' \u25a0 \u25a0 y
\u25a0 -z* -AS breakfast «\u25a0' jacket *is\ a- pretty- form / of • a negligee
for/ one's *o.wn * home \ and ? a" particularly pretty "style for
one Js>sh6wn~^;lt" i Js ! made\of Ta; flowered- sllk_ In a Dres
den .pattern 7 on .a J lavender/ ground and ' has a 'tight
fitting I back ; which .conies '.to the v waist .only : the '; skirt
party Is ;\u25a0 cut; ; circular C arid C is /laid in' two \ boxplaits ":In
the middle : of .the I back/! ,Tbe fronts hang straight - down
from / the * shoulder ; arid . are laid back to form : long,
straight ; revefs.* r'evers "are ' trimmed -~ with"*' sev
eral' tiny /lace/ edgings iwhich^ are tfulledoriVthe; entire
length/; : The revers ) do" not - meet , In front, but separate'
enough^, to show' a"'yest ' or underblouse of net over plain
laVeridef' sllk^comlrig/exactly^to, the. waistline.
/./ A' folded; ..belrbf 'the^plaln^iiilk^bvers"- the 'Jolnjng^at
the C waist ' across -'.the • back, . slips - ( thr6ugh r « slits " which"
are''cutvurider,the;edges of , the' revers, and extands across
; thV'!oyerblouse',) fastenlrig'at • .the] left "of ;the front. The
;ideeves?are/three^uar^e>Jlength^withH
the j JDresden r have ; a long, tight ;*cuff of the
net '-with l';\ theVs'llk* underneath.
f-£j*JTtiis i'ciouldw be sprettily5 prettily = and much/less elaborately
madejof 'cashriierelor', albatross \u25a0in some* becbmins'cblor.
using: the Tmaterlal^ tucked < up 'and 4 , down-, for thetunder
rblouse; and', lower' 'parts of - the .sleeves. . '
-.'Two ibeautifuitUeasowns' are shown which ;in"ay'<be
more "elaborate^ithan . many people will ' care ~to i make,
but*they. are* good ; of- their kind and may sug
gest'^ ldeas-'^f or Tmore? simple • ones. , The^flrs t £. has an
urT d erd res jf /of ; whl tt ce t ch lffon ' cl oth ". made J'so"" 1 1\ falls | soft
and ff v \i--a t>ou t*th c J f t: x ,; In r, the '" front* It] han ga ;' stral rh t
dowiv'.frraythVjsiiffhtly^lowJne
hack,*steftiat;the\walsrr.theiliningr"eitend,ing v on^
neok.' lone, ' slasriied/overdress of a
pal : «jsreen|lndia\*ilk,iedged|with|a?narrow|darkjgreen
The' San Francisco Sunday Call.
velvet ; ribbon." ' There is a slash on each aide which
extends to the" waist, also 1 one In the middle of the
back.- The sleeves are short and small and finished with
a. full frill of lace. ft|fd|Pfldhti|
The second one is made of an exquisite ;. shade .' of
gray silk crCpe', showing a plain, circular uadersklrt _
made quite \u25a0; long; over this Is a tons tunic, gathered"
slightly Into the bottom" of the yoke part. It is plain
under -the arms, but fulls across the back the same ai
on the 1 front. The shape that J the lower edge takes caa
be easily seen. The T plain yoke Is made . of a sheer
tucked mousseline, [as 'are also the long, tight sleeves.
The -fastening Is at' the middle of the back* and the lon*
sash of softest, liberty; satin 'in an exquisite rose •tart» >>
up under the arms Jowards the. back, crosses to the
front, then around to the back again, finally' tying la a
knot on the : left side. t \u25a0 •
The beautiful little overblouse . Is cut .in the most
fascinating-. shape and .can." easily, be copied from the
illustration. "', As. plotyred here It is made of the erf^e
and , beatitif ully : embroidered, as is the lower edge of
the -tunici also. • ' ' . " ,
. ;Mad«^in some less- expensive-, material and without
there -b eing. t wo" skirts, 'the 'upper part could easily.. be
\u25a0 carried^out,;; also lthe~ draping of the sash,^making a
beautiful : garment.
\u25a0: - • J h ? "adjustable '.flounces' are*! practical. *as a hand
some one can be used'both'on- a silk and lingerie pet
ticoat. They button Jtotthe;, skirt under a wide beading
of 'embroidery that *• heads the ' flounce, * or > the skirt can
have, 1 , a wide band :} of embroidery that . buttons down
over the top of the ruffle. ' Wlth'such'an arrangement
the /girl "who: can" embroider " but who dislikes to cut
aiau ; fit 1 can / buy* a plain f petticoat . and only work the
.fiounce. 1 ;-" . • -
'Aj'simple. flounce- that, ls' also showy can.' be made
of tv-hite 'dotted, swiss^with* a "^ gracefully, , curved 'seal-
( lop on* the -, edge. : worked in •; white mercerized cotton
after being '• heavily padded. : To make " It • rather more
elaborate -it* can^be' set7,wlth,three> rows of :filet, lace
Insertion - or' diamond, shaped medallions 'of, lace can be
ln s er .?* d i **; : '! nte^*? s ° { rflve Inches* apart and 'three
inches above^the "scallop. V These 'can be outlined with
fine, ibriar •.stitching. , r»: /, ; *' '\u25a0 1
'"' ;v; v K n . lte ,, sein l*^f n ? cor(et; covers are ' made in one
piece Mth the afmhoie \u25a0 shaped out • arid the top,proper
ly dipped \u25a0\u25a0 kt r top \ and * sloped at front, the ' edge "scal
loped f and , a - design \u25a0 embroidered below' the em
broidered eyelets. ; throMgh; which -ribbqas s are.to be run.
; A* narrow; galqn;embVQidere.d' to • match^comes -separate
ly.; f - or * h ,K shoulderTstraps ;that'.has - only ' to be sewed
,s to- ; by .'" the spaces ; that- "are left
at* : the"f top "-andf the ;si«^.wJli: flta: wonian' over
: medium^ build. . The, cover- comes in a one and one-half
y^t* 1 .'.shaped -piecV^ an'd "the "galon in a three-quarter
.yardstrip. 1 The -material • is'^a soft "'finished ''nainsook.
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