The San Francisco call. [volume], February 28, 1909, Page 12, Image 12

About The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
A
Page
for
Misses
\u25a0•<#\u25a0«\u25a0* ;Hj£RE is considered to be sosie
•\u25a0 I . thing am>s3 nowadays in the t&~
;. . I vcation of a girl who knows
; ; nothing of the delicate and charm
ing handiwork which seems so appro
priately the work of feminine fingers.
Tlnje^ was — and not so very long ago —
when for a very little while athleticism
ar:d intellectual training seemed to
comprise all that was thought neces
pary In a girl's education. For a short
.time many- young girls and their
guardians and instructors as well
seemed to be content that the womanly
handicrafts should sink into abeyance
find to cherish a feeling something
sJrin to contempt for the frivolous fem
ir.lr.e occupations which resulted in the
manufacture of innumerable dainty
handmade trifles for the boudoir, the
.drawing room or for the personal
adornment of one's self or one's friends.
But now all this Is changed, and
there is as much rivalry among youns
girls In the matter of fine needlework.
Stjtchery of various- sorts, knitting,
crocheting and the Ingenious a*nd orig
inal construction of objects on which
one's skill may be displayed as In the
Cays of our .grandmothers.
The retivnins realization of what
manual training means in the way of
j?rneral culture and discipline lias done
something to bring about this revived
devotion to the ne<?dle. • Kvcn more has
ibeen done by the persistent craze for
hand work for all sorts of uses. Then,
too, the making of tiies<-> useful and
charming articles furnishes a very nat
ural avenue through which industrial
taste, skill, fancy and ingenuity may
:£fid expression. The fancy work today
Jmist be -.-.genuinely' beautiful and
with finished art if it is to be
acceptable. : Original ideas count here
tts elsewhere, but perfect taste and per
fect workmanship are even more" im
portant, and these requirements give to
the tnaklr.g of handwork of any sort
today a distinct disciplinary character
"Which Is appreciated'by all educator?.
/There are few things more attractive
among the modern girl's special pos
sessions than her fancy work outfit.
The tools of her various feminine
trades, whether these be leather work,
sewing or embroidery, are of the finest,
engraved with her monogram and kept
In the most fascinating of boxes, bags
or tool chests, designed or selected with
regard to- the particular tastes of the
girl owners.. There are. few things
more becoming' to- a. girl than a golden
thimble, and, indeed, all the accessories
of the fancy work' trade are as pretty
.\nd charming as the products of the m
lustry, .Even. th«-. girls who do not
.nuch <|are abaut- the work itself needs
vnust take. it. 'up. nowadays for the sake
\u25a0>f ;th« attehdajjt good times. The very
'ittl« giris.Tvh'd do not sew doll clothes
V-nd. tjitea, tvhen \u25a0• tftey " are older, that
.^ey/have -missed, one of the pleasant
-*t; fcatu-rps' ot - : being a little girl,
.i-spmfithln^' of the s"am.e sort of pleas
BEAUTY
HINTS
FOR YOUNG GIRLS
.f >-» IKLS with scanty locks should
I I assiduously cultivate the hair
\u25a0 directly behind the ears."
jbserved the April grandmother as she
jtndied the portrait of a young woman
it' a loan exhibition. "Not only does
ige soonest reveal Itself at that portion
»f the profile, but as the average femi-
Un» ear Is ugly lt should be rendered
is Inconspicuous as is possible. Us
ually the ears are wrongly placed when
;6t too large* or too small, too thick
ir too thin, too broad or too narrow,
-.cd, like the lips, they are health ba
rometers. If they are exceedingly red
ad coarse of texture there Is too
nuch bloofe in the system; if ashen and
ransparent the constitution is anaemic,
-a either condition a well shaped ear
joks temporarily ugly, whereas one
Slat is healthy — delicately tinted as
!xe Inner side of a sea shell — looks at
.-active even though it may not con
>rm in location, shape and size to
HOW TO MAKE FANCY COLLARS
j\ \u25a0 O"W that all the feminine world is
. \| wearing fancy collars It behooves
' the schoolgirl to get out her work
1 -g and her mother's scrap box and see
:iat ehe can accomplish with a strip
f lace, a piece of tulle and a bit of
k, satin or ribbon.
Foremost among such neckgear Is
.« Gibson collar, which is at its dain
est in finely tucked net or chiffon, or
. C real Irish lace In trellis effect, show
; '£ small roses joined by shamrock
•rays and finished with a box plaited
\u25a0jp frill 'of tulle or finest silk edged
isse.. Irish lace motifs and medallions
.nay be joined so that the deepest
points will be Just behind the ears, the
ihorter being buflt to the requisite
height with fllet net. It mast .be Ye
nembered, "however, that motifs and
medallions do not accord" well with
ruchings, and that if such collars are
to be trimmed at all it should be with
i half-inch wide satin, velvet or metal
lic ribbon "that Is tacked smoothly
il.out the lower edge and- tied in a
Uny bow tt the front. ft
FANCY WORK ESSENTIAL IN
THE FASHIONABLE CURRICULUM
ure is missed from the life of the school
girl who never does fancy work.
Just at present there seems to be a
cessation of the craze for sewing fine
white materials, linens, batiste, etc.,
and working upon these fabrics all
sorts of designs .in embroidery and
open work. There are always many
girls who prefer doing this sort of
work to any other and until last season
the devotion to it had been almost uni
versal, so that one saw very little work
being done in silk, brocade or colored
embroidery. But now the all .white
hand work has yielded first place, at
least temporarily, to the-furore for ar
those artistic ideals invariably to be
seen in the feminine portraits done
by businesslike painters.
VAs the ugliest types of ears .ire
those which stand out aggressively
they should be re-formed to a certain
degree by tying them close to the head
each night with a strip of firm muslin
having large meshes through which the
air can perfectly circulate. If,, on the
contrary, the ears. are set too closely
against the 'head, several thicknesses
of linen should be placed between them
and the scalp, until the fault is at least
partly remedied.
"Whatever may be the shape of the
ears, their care is of the utmost Im
portance. It is not sufficient, to make
daily attacks: upon them with sponge
or wash cloth; they should be regularly
attended to with fine soap and tepid
water mixed with benzoin. The wax
which Is secreted by the glands of the
ear as a barrier against" entering in-
In the novelty bandings are to be
found attractive combinations of lace,
such as Valenciennes flanked by a
fancy mesh, resembling point de Vcnise,
which, if employed for collars, require
only a tulle or silk lisse ruching on one
side and a boned chiffon lining. There
are heavy allover nets showing darned
disks and spider web wheels, some
wonderful repousse effects in imitation"
machine mesh, and braid Irish laces, .
which need only to be boned and edged'
with a tulle ruche.
Black collars are good standbys for
motoring, traveling and general run
ning about Those made of, black
Tosca* banding ; in floral show- .
ing stems of tubular silk braid and
flowers -and a flat braid edge" require
merely a black tulle. or; net ruche and
a bone at back and front. '
"Colored ruchings top-edging Gibson .
coiffure show, touches of brown, green
or navy or" the light lines of pink,-blue
aiid .mauve. Colored oak laces are used
not only in the fancy varitoned; effects,
but in the-: single": color lypes— black,
tides made in the elaborate French de*
signs of brocades, colored satins and
handsome silks trimmed with gold lace,
ribbon, embroidery, embroidery in gold
cord, chenille and heavy silk cord.
For work basket fittings, glove cases,
opera bags, photograph frames, desk
fittings, pillows and half a hundred
other uses these elaborate brocaded
and embroidered silk and satin crea
THE
APRIL
GRAND
dust' and loud sounds should.oc
casionally be removed; lest it harden
into a solid mass which may produce
temporary deafness.
"From its thinness and apparently
exposed position, the eardrum is- liable
to injuries, producing •in its perfora
tions or inflammations, while the con
cussion created by loud 'sounds somp
times causes- pcrmanciit deafrfess.
While -the noise of a- sudden explosion
can scarcely be. puarded against,' girls
of. •delicate auditory \u25a0\u25a0 apparatus, should
take-the precaution of inserting a piecct
of cotton wool into 'the opening of the
cafr when aware that they are soon" to
be exposed to" sounds like the thunder of
an electric, storm or 'those* induced by
theatrical, effects. : If, after such expe
riences, the ,ears seem benumbed,- they
should immediately be examined ! by an
expert," as deafness puts a girl , im
mensely at a disadvantage in. the social,
domestic and business world.". 'r?-^^^^
gendarme blue, light brown,' mode and
made from white or colored side tucked
net, has a double, piped, self colored
satin top edge, headed, with - a /wide
triple ruche andja double stitched. tie
of the same satin cncirclingthe throat
and fastened beneath the chin in a but
terfly, bow. .. '\u25a0) .*..
: Narrow velvet ribbon- bands encircle
some; of .the white, iblack and/colored
net ; collars,, while ; on ; others; the rib
\u25a0 bons. are formed 'into a', bow and^ set
across /the fronC= the / tabs, falling? be- '.
lowithe edge for a: distance y of 'several
inches. - A~ piece .of heavy. ' set ' appii-S
qued -with ..silk may- be: made ; into^a
collar- edged -with similarly applied
matching or contrasting plcot edged
ribbon. '..:- '".-';\u25a0 :'\u25a0;-. ••-".
"Allover muslin embroidery, figured or
dotted \u25a0; Swiss ?or< filet ; straight - high ! col
lars are ;edged with. Valenciennes > lace
and trimmed with lace edged pointed or
square j tabs. \u25a0/, . :: : :
Stripedlllnen stocks to be worn with
'tailored- shirtiwaists or street;suits?are
top . edged .w^thtEnglish i eyelet hole : em- 1
: broidery, of #of J embroidered viineni-;?A/
novel "effect may ;JjV: gained; by- having ;
tiie-lowcr..portiori*of j the collar and the
turnover 'tabs' of linen embroidery /in
'colors;. ' / - : . \u25a0\u25a0/\u25a0' ':\u25a0'• * /;;•'\u25a0"/•. \u25a0.„•\u25a0/. \u25a0-';"\u25a0\u25a0:\u25a0: '
tions are In order. The ribbon cm- .
broidery is especially popular and Is
most effective, much raoro so than that
done in floss silk, and at the same time •
it does not. take nearly so long to do as
does the embroidery in floss.
A touch of gold is alwtfys effective
in this sort of .trimming and there are
always many colors of chenille or rib
bon, or both, used. Small, fine flowers
arc far ' more '" fashionable than large
ones, and there is a' tendency to have
the objects on which the ribbon em
broidery Is used as small as is at all
compatible with their, purposes. Small
photograph frames in . rich satins or
velvets, covers for tiny books, small
boxes for trinkets, needle books, di- "
minutive bags , for hand .work, opera
glass bags, etc., are all to be noticed
in the objectsv decorated with ribbon
embroidery. -Even the, pillows which
are so trimmed arc usually small and
are meant to be the finishing touch, not
the main support, of the couch fittings.
Where ribbon embroidery is not used
for decoration brocade is popular. Bags
anil boxes of all sorts arc made,' of bro
cade, and there! never was a season
more. , prolific of an infinity of hand
made baps and boxes. Among the il
lustrations there are two bags, one of
brocade and one -decorated with ribbon •,
embroidery. The- brocade bag iscylln- ;
drieal, the ends being circles of "card
board covered -;'with the material. These
ends hold out the sides of the bag, but .
they would-not do so effectively if the
bag were made .of flimsy material.' Very .
heavy brocade is .used, and this is fur
ther stiffened by 'a. heavy satin lining.
The ; handle,' made of rather thick silk
cord, is quite stiff, the ends being in
geniously fastened to the bag by- en
casing each one, in' a full holder ;or
small bag of brocade. /The-tops of these
small' bags.are sewed.to the large bag.
In/this manner a firm handle may be
sewed fast without much difficulty.
Thls-bag is to be used for; sewing or
fancy work of any kind.'
The smaller bag,. meant to be used as
a fan bag, to hold also a vanity box
when one in going to a ball, is-of.pale
pink satin- with an embroidery in faint
heliotrope, blue 'and; green ribbon. In
making ribbon. work designs on objects
which are to be used as gifts the favor-
IteVflower of the recipient is naturally
There is no end, to the list
of ; boudolr appointments which may/be /
decorated in this 'fashion. -: Cases of all
kinds meant to repose In the^drawers
of.bureau or dressing table,' -as well r as
the 'furnishings, which are > ; to ;b'e ex
posed on the. top of the [ dressing". table,
are^ trimmed ; in this . f ashion. ; :J^^^
'. Another. -favorite /fashion' in needle- I
work -this 'season is trie use -of net or
chiffon, "preferably net. over, a flowered,
design Jin 'Silk -or 'brocade. ;On pillows
this; is an especially practicable fash
ion,} for,^ the net. outer casing," which;
f urn ish'cs ] a ; protection for the Ysilk npl£
SOCIAL AMENITIES FOR
THE SCHOOL GIRL
AS the social season approaches and
the young girl is about to emerge
into the world .of society, a full
fledged-, butterfly of fashion, many
details in -connection 'with the happy
and auspicious. event have to be consid
ered," among, them the polite art of cor
respondence.
There is nothing which seems «to re
flect a general air, of innate refinement
like that of being able to express one's
self on all occasions with ease, elegance
and fitness. ' v-
The calls for written expression are. r
many, and /unless the dame of fashion
pc-Esessos an up to date scribe or. social
secretary, and the young g-iri wlll'n6t
very 1 likely, thoug-h the matron mo y. it
is essential slio should Oc well posted as
tc the etiquette of correspondence.
Many hints , might bo'dropped in re
frard to the numner, in which to write a
.note or letter..- For formal occasions
there is always a prescribed usage,
varying a little with the. importance of •
the perspna^o. :ind the function and
with the prevailing tasto in such mat
ters. • To illustrate my point, there are
times, and seasons Lwhen the. stately
"honor" Is iisod in preference to the
nfbre. familiar and cordial "pleasure,".'
but the most important thing of all is
to be able to compose informal notes
and letters'in: an easy, colloquial s^yle.
.Theregular business letter, which
women of affairs- so frequently have
to write, should be brief "and to the
point, expressed clearly and concisely,
as ,the;ci£ht hours at most devoted- to
business is 'all . too : short for the rush
and' whirl of our tense and strenuous
era. : - - \
The letter of general correspondence
to a : friend or relative should be written-.
• Fancy Leaf Baskets
G" IHl,S,wlio nre in. the country these
j days, and who have nn artistic rye
-: //and clever -fingrers should go, into
tliecornfieldß.Batherthc beautiful col
ored ileaves^and ' husks of ,' the' corn : and
sew ; them : into i mats and baskets. ; ; The
corn leaves : turn \u25a0 from gi-een* ii nto;varie
gated bands of -. brilliantjhues;: taking
on'.air the enchanting colors of autumn,
while^ the ; husks f become ' striped wlttJ
lovely, crimsons and, purples.::, ;
Bring an " armfiil; of 'these home,
wash' the dirt off/ and .while moist twist
togetherifouri or; five, of i the -leaves, 1 all
of vwhich /are , pliable I yeVi strong," into
a' rope, '\u25a0 and* then ; coll and \u25a0 sew,' this : rope
into; a \u25a0. flat | mat • any : , size \ desired. \u25a0 : Sew
the / rope "over and over*7 putting \ the
needle ;' In /at : the :; edge 'i of ?, the coll -and
taking the stitches about an. inch'apart.'
Use i for i thread i a/, strand o t/stra'w "col
ored ' ra fll a , .;, th el ra ffla"; be i n £ '. fou n d -a t
anyikindergarteri'siipply" place/ : /' "
/ If .you; are'skillfult you; can? build the
mat:upJntb]a:roundJbasket/;iayinglthe'
coilsjontop'of oneTanbtherjto'formthe
\u25a0• -: - v , / ; '\u25a0\u25a0 '\u25a0\u25a0 ' \u25a0 : \u25a0\u25a0•; ;' ' / ;: . " \u25a0
• - -*. ---\u25a0\u25a0'
low,- can be removed and cleaned. The
designs in brocade or flowered silk
which are chosen for sucti purposes are
.quite decided, frequently a pattern be
jing selectedwlth a fairly large set fis
sure, such as a bright wreath. or a stiff
bouquet, which will serve as a center
piece for the pillow. Then sometimes
the design Is embroidered on a plain
silk, the net in either case being put
; over the entire pillow.
Cross stitch in many varieties still
holds the popularity w«ucn it regained
last winter. Usually large pieces are
done in this style of needlework, the
designs being wrought In wool or
heavy silk* cord. /The old fashioned
patterns, stiff bouquets of roses and
lilies, romantic scenes, etc.. are very
attractive in this work, more so than
the new art patterns, which are newer
but not so pleasing Ii» coior. The cross
stitch work_ goes along much ' faster
than would at first be supposed on
looking at a finished piece. Especially
is this true when the pieces are bought
filled in except for th« design. Still,
for the busy school girl the making of
a largo cross stitch piece Is a rather
ambitious bit of work, and it is well
not to be too sanguine as to one's dili
gence In selecting a piece that Is to be
done by a particular date.
There are many articles for use In the
boudoir or for one's traveling bag
which are not of the sort to be made
of satin or brocade, but which should
be of tubbable material. Among these
are bureau scarfs, laundry bags, etc.
and as a change from the linen ar
ticles which, have long been so popu
lar these are now being made of dim
ity. Bureau scarfs, covers for the
table, pin cushions, etc., are all
made of this fabric, and, of course, to
match. Among the Illustrations is one
in a conversational manner, telling the
little home and social details, the
T
latest story, ad libitum and ad infi
nitum, remembering, though, that with
all of* your ease and colloquialism
true elegance, while simple, is accurate,
and an ungrammatic phrase^ uttered in
rapid, extemporaneous conversation is
forgivable, where it. is not when writ
ten, and, of course, the spelling must be
correct, and the writing not so illeg
ible as to conceal tlie want of this
knowledge, which, to some, is the
most exasperating branch of education.
There are, few lengthy epistles, how
ever, written today. With telephone,
telegraph, cable and wireless telegraphy
people talk frequently and briefly to
one another. - ,
It was. different in the daj-s~of our
grandparents, when " communication
with those at a distance was slow and
laborious. In those days the happen
ings of week?, or even months, were
•poured out on parchment by the sender
and pored over for hours by the re^
cipient; then t'rfe lady of leisure j>lumed
and prided herself en her ability as.a
scribe and her reputation as such was
handed down to her descendants. -.
So the short, graceful note of today
takes the place of, the long, laborious
letter of our. grandmothers.
There is much to be written in one
day of social life at the height of the
season, notes of. acceptance and of\re
gret for many pleasures, theater par
ties, .opera •'.\u25a0.boxes..- concert tickets,
flowers, bonbons, week, ends, to . say
nothing- of ; the dinners, the luncheons,
tlie^ informal teas, notes of congratula
tion and notes of condolence, and for
many trifling' occurrences of every, sort
and' kind. ;•, ' ' "
To Put on the Veil
IT is'an.art ,to get. a veil on well, and
much .depends on the start. Always
tie a new veil in a small knot in the~
center^ of the upper, edge. This will
give a llttlefullness.'whichipermits it
to. lie over, the 'face without' stretching.
Pih-^-n'iyer tie— the two > upper ends on
tho. hat und ,the two lonver ehd3 low
down on the -hair, almo3t at the neck.
A' trick of- taking care of the . lower
front edge at; the chlnUine Is to pull it
well down, twist in the middle and tuck
the.; twisted part down -Into your, collar.
This keeps it secure and makes a be-^
coming.;f rame '.to^the 11 . chinl lf ; you' are
slender.lbut If you have a full neck do'
not: let' the veil coma over it."
sides, but; the mats are pretty enough
In : HhemselvQS.'- and , no ". two are ever
alike.ifor thq r leave3 are full of variety,
the lHiskSrshiided^ahdahe combination
of ; color formed :by.!twistlng:the 'leaves
and husks together exquisite.
The San Francisco Sunday Call
-
of a pair of'pin cushions made of pink
and white dimity. wiUfe Valenciennes
edging 1 and Insertion and cat stitching
In pink silk. With these there was a
bureau cover made In the same style
and an extra scarf for tho dressing
table. These dimity articles are es
pecially suitable for a young girl's
Leather work for amateurs has fee
\u25a0
come so very popular the last few sea
sons that it competes with embroidery
as a branch ot the home handicraft in
dustry. There are many different kfnds
of leather work, all of which, are popu
lar, but leather applique and- ./cut
leather work Is newer than the burnt
leather. The book rack shown on t-jita,
page Is an example of very attra^tVy-e;:
leather work, a brown leather* "design
being appiiqued against a cream fcack-,
ground to form the decoration.. -. Th'?..
work is difficult for an amateur, aiidflt'
is the sort of hand work which • -rtc.W»
but those gifted by naturo Vit{i skill*
ful fingers can hope to accomplish sucV
cessf ully. • \u25a0."'...-•' .' :
Sachets always form an important
department of the hand work industry
because every one must have them, and
it Is so necessary to renew tliera from
time to time. Thero are this season
the most fascinating sachets in bro
cade covered with net and satin em
broidered with crystals and ff°**k
Painted sachet 3 are also popular, suv *
as the little fiat one shown in the pic-<;
ture. This is made of .water color
paper on one sJde, with a little Dutch.,
maiden painted on lt. and the baffe i 3
made of pale green silk. A set of sncly.
small sachets is considered a most use
ful and attractive gift, especially *1?
care has been taken to secure the pre- '
cisc blending of colors that appeals -to'
the recipient.
To give a set "style for the writing
of these notes ar.J letters would be as
bad form as to refer the youthful debu
tante to an epistolary primer, which
tells her in stilted phrases how t->
write, and this is just what she wishes
to avoid; but she can cultivate the art
of written expression by a careful ob
servance of the best form 3 coming
under her notice, and adapt them, like
any other fashion, to her own peculiar
need and style.
For example, that which would be
quite natural and graceful for the dig
nified Mrs. B , one of the leaders of
her social set, might not be suited to a
young girl, and that which would b»
graceful and suitable in accepting a
gift of flowers or bonbons would not be
seasonable in either accepting or re
gretting the use of an opera box or arA
invitation to a week's end. To qimf^i
from that most frequently quoted of v
authors:
"Suit jthe action to tn» word, the
word to the action, with this specl.il
observance, that you a'erstep not the
modesty of nature."
There is this, though, to remember.
however you may express yoursetf in
phrase or word, you must be punctual
about it.
A dinner Invitation should be ac
cepted or declined at once, even thoush
a girl's own plans should cnange a lit
tle later on. so as to enable your host
ess, to flll your place at table. This Is
imperative and unpardonable if not at
tended to promptly, as it marks the
girl quite unacquainted with social
usages.
The same might be said in a modi
fied way about accepting or regret
ting any invitation, whether it be for
an opera box, a theater party, concert
tickets, a luncheon or a week's end as
the favor can be pasaed on to some one
else if Impossible to accept, and one of
the great benefits of society and one of
Its blessings— the worn is tiled advis
edly—ls that it. compels self-forjretful
ness'and the consideration of others in
SsSE&SS* Rothin s.else does, unless
the individual be by nature a saint.
For the Automobile Girl
IHE girl who arives her own eutr.
mobile should have a leather pad
' at her back in order to make her
position more upright. In driving a
car the right fwt and .leg are incon
stant use, and the pressure' necessary
throws the body forward. This is not
an uncomfortable position, but It is
awkward and bad for the figure. Using
a leather pad obviates this and greatly
improves the appearance of the driver.
,Those who :are fashionable do not
talk.'about running a car. but say
"drlving 1 ." and if they wish to use
smart parlance they do not 3ay auto^
mobile, or auto, or; automoblling. bi%B
always use instead the words motorif
car and motoring.
A^ motor novelty Js thehoods. which,
made of quilted satin ami lined, are
most quaint and attractive. Warm and
snus to the head, they are a genuine
comfort and will enable* their wearer*
to dispense .with the motor veiL