Newspaper Page Text
The San Francisco Sunday Call
FASHION'S COMMANDS IN COIFFURES -; » - WOMAN'S glory is her / \ hair:" If a woman's hair jf \ is cot beautiful It-is a sim ple case of neglect. Proper Brooding will bring out dormant Ughts and rich tones In the dullest of locks, and with careful treatment a scanty crop can be increased to lusurlar.ce. Just now every woman lias an alnm tfance of hair. Daiiie Fashion ha* de creed it. With hair pillows and wire rages underneath, and curls and puffs and switches on top. it is a very easy matter to comply with her demands'. The openness of all this artificiality robs it of offense, and it can not be denied that on the whole the pre vailing styles of hairdressing are very attractive and becoming. The new fashions are partly the re suit of the Bemlclassic Influences In the present modes &n<\ partly a re sponse to the demands of the new millinery. The mass of hair extending out from the back of the hesd above the r.eck fs to fill In that great cavern which exists under the brims of many of the new hats. The pompadour !n a modified form •till holds Its popularity, it is much lower now in front than of old and very broad from side to side. The hats are also responsible for this de velopment. For faces of a certain type the hair !s parted in the middle and brought back In a 6oftly waving mass on each ride to the heavy puffed rolls behind. This style is new and very popular, but WHAT'S NEW AND EFFECTIVE IN NECKWEAR 71- N appearance of continual fresh / A ness and novelty can be given to the most limited of wardrobes by the use of different pretty collars and :,xlngs for the neck. The majority of women realize this fact and keep on hand a supply of natty little ties and 'abots and frills. There are a great jnany from which to choose this year. All of the stores are showing a variety of styles and it is evident from their V large stocks of these goods that they J f-xpt-ct to soil a great many during the * season. The newest thing in neckwear is the ]>;:toh or Byron collar. This has Achieved an enormous popularity even thus early In the - season, and when the warmer weather comes there is little doubt that It will be the one style nt neckwear most worn. The buyers just returned from their t::jns to N'cw York tell us that almost :i!l of lJ:e women there are wearing the Dutch oollar.- They turn In the nwks of or gowns, lay t'.'.^ir coat collars fiat and wear the new collar over thorn. It does" not ::;aii»"r whether the necks they expose have been disfigured and darkened by the chafing of the high tight bon^d ••oliar, or whether, by a miracle, they have remained gmooth and white. The women arc emancipated. In thl« reepect at least, and. dare to be comfortable tince it is the fashion. It is truly a sensible style, as well as a pretty one- — this turndown collar of lace or embroidery that leaves the neck perfectly free. Any woman who has endured the misery of a high neck dressing on a warm day is likely to accept the change with gratitude. They make these Dutch colfars of la-«*ri or linen or Irish lace. Some are A liW:.r embroidered in the dainty French lai'f anfl ryclet work; some arc di vided Into little panels, with lace or drnnn work ,hetween lhem. All ron >rm to* the general round shape. *«d it is not becoming to every one. For the woman wltli serene and. regular f>aturrs th* style is peculiarly suit able, but the vivacious girl with an Irregular profile had better adhere to the* piquant waved pompadour. There- are two methods of prepar ing straight locks for the new coif fures. Both are called waves, but the marcel is a shallow, regular undula tion, like the little ripples along the beach, while the French •wave has the deeper, more irregular curves of the spa farther 1 out from chore. The French is nearer to th* natural curl of the hair, but the marcel is very popular and is especially effective with certain rather set styles of hairdresß- Ing. One of the new style low coiffures jet there Is a great variety in the outlines. In some Instances this Is waved, Income it has points or angles so that the feeling of monotony that might result, from seeing . so many Dutch collars is avoided. For wear with the tailored waist or suit, heavy* linen Is used, generally decorated with a simple pattern of French or eyelet-embroidery; while for fussier and lighter garments 'the ' col lars are made of sheer lawn or \linen combined with baby Irish or. valen clennes lace. Another very strongly emphasized feature /of the neckwear this season is the pVedominance of the jabot. -Lit tle boy.' tics are also used, but tlieir popularity. Is iva:jir.g. Occasionally they ar» wcrn ninnc.ib'jf •' nior^i often *r* coß'.bined with the jabot, for by shown on this page consists of blx or . eight puffs or rolls of uniform size grouped in a cluster at the .hick. The. front may be either a low, broad pom-, padour, having the marcel wave (like the illustration), or th<\ hair may be parted in front If it Is 'more becoming to the individual. This coiffure ran bo arranged 'from the natural hair with the aid of sev-' eral good sized "rats" when the hair Is abundant, but, if It Is not, puffs Of ar tificial hair can be pinned on to build out the structure in the back. A very broad carved tortoise shell barrette is used with this, partly as a support and partly to confine- the locks that otherwise might stray out from under neath and spoil the effect. Another* far tne greater proportion of. ."thln'ipiv. : for the neck this year have : a tabu Or ' a jabot forming an Important part of ,them.# ?' Most of the jabots are pleated; /some have a box pleat down the center," mak-~ ing a little panel which can be deco rated with embroidery; some are side pleated, edged with lace or Insertion, "; made "double with /one piece ' shorter* , ' than the other, or varied in a hundred different ways. The tabs are smaller and simpler and r are not pleated; as g a rule; they '.are-, embroidered, though sometimes they arc trimmed with lace. A . tab geii- j erally consists of two ends, one shorter/-, than the, other, and/often thcy/.are made v of,: a", straight/- strip? of .material .with. th<» \u25a0.oM«Jx,"inbroM«»r«»d : .;on opi)o«itp \u25a0 ?:jlps.; so- th.»t ; wheiv.* tliey. nr«» .. folrlert. ntyle of low hair dressingr.-shown In the illustration, consists ; of .one large central roll surrounded by eight or ten smaller rolls. The deep, soft French wave is used 'in thls ; case, and the pompadour ig quite low s aiVd broad. , A chignon of artificial -halrlis* sometimes employed to help 'form,: this coiffure when the natural 'locks are riot over abundant. . - \u25a0 .• :\u25a0 . Another of the new styles, which Is a very old style revived, ls ; the psyche knot. We have often seen this on the Greek vases, .where It appears In per fect harmony with the clear cut am? regular* Greek profile. On , precisely the right type of woman and wlth.th* coiffure well built— \pr it Is a work of art not to be attempted by amateur's— the psycho knot has a peculiar charm both or the embroidered ! portions wfll - 'be: right side ' out. ' -•„-',' - \u25a0 By ; far the /most; popular lace for neckwear, ."or,- In fact, for:, any »other/ purpose this . season, is - the . handmade - Irish crochet- » This Is used in the form of • an . "ill ': over", for. stock collars : or . chemlsettes,\ori in the shape' of edgings: and insertions. „ Little '\u25a0 panels and me-;; dalllons are also? made. of it/: round s or oval or square, and these i ara set into, : . the.;iinen and :.: surrounded, .* aY" a rule,*- I. with -j eyelet and f French; embroidery, i i Sometimes -very/ heavy /raised forms v used in the 'handmade . Irish," lace, / l and\th* t !!P'"s»re- exceedingly rich and! *f-'"< \u25a0 fectiye. '\u25a0'," .. . -"" ." \u25a0 -\u0084\u25a0 . - .... \u25a0; '• ! The Uutc.h collars are oft»n,f«shloned of Irish* crochet,* and '.stoi-ks and stand-; Of Its own. But when It Is not suc cessful Its failure is conspicuous. There Is a modified form of the psyche that Is less extreme, and this has been much more generally ac cepted. A single curl is pinned In on each side at the back 'in" this /version of'-the. psyche, as shown in the illus tration. • There are some faces to which any of the low styles of hair arrangement are not becoming and for these the hair dressers, have created a new high coiffure, which consists of. a large cen tral puff In front, surrounded on three sides by a series of smaller puffs, mix or eight in number, all arranged on th^ Town of the head. The accompanying illustrations show the main -tendencies of the now Ing collars as well; llttl© bow ties of f this lace are * more popular than; any others, and tabs or jabots are made or trimmed with it. , -v t The ; shape of the " stock or ' boned \u25a0 collar} has? changed this spring. It ; Is - : a; little lower In front and not quite so ? high In 'the. back as formerly, and jits two; sharp' points behind; the ears have ; been' rounded'bff into a \u25a0 pleasing curve. : : The 'white hand, embroidered; stand ing linen collars are . still ' much s used with' the tailored suits,' generally com bined with a jabot or /bow and J tab; of /heavy .Irish- crochet. : , :=. y. All? white tailored; neckwear will also .b» wbrnS'qultoSa, Jlttle /~ by '-.those t':" who! "likejseyere^effects. "_\u25a0„\u25a0 „•; ' V- : / / • ./y^ltvvvassaid earlier In' the season /that" : ruchlnjj-'was* to?bf* replaced '"byr, a"i«nk. styles In hair dressing. A lower and broader effect over the forehead, with the hair waved and softer In appear ance than formerly and sometimes parted in the middle; the low dressing of the hair in the back and a rolled and puffed arrangement of th* back hair generally. It Is , hardly necessary to say that braided' locks are no longer in vogue, and the little bunches of curls pinned In at one side of the back have had their day. And now the Blllie Burke. curls are with us. These are Ilk* little puffs, except i that, they are not rolled up tight and pinned down as th* puffs are. They can be worn quite close up to the pompadour In front and are cor<s wr soft- fold, but this was found to" be too severe and trying to most faces. The new. ruchlng is very low in the front and high at each ear, be coming lower again in the middle of the back. .Examples, of some of the most popular styles of neckwear to be worn this season are shown in the Illustrations. 1 '.-.>\u25a0 '\u25a0There 'is one "of . the new shaped stock .'collars j with a jabot of embroid ery and lace, and* another stock collar of j heavy :\u25a0 Irish crochet. : Two examples of -th©* x Dutch. 1 ;, or Byrcn. collar ara \u25a0 given ; .'.' one Is of * sheer handkerchief linen.' hand : embroidered In •French and eyelet; work. i .The , '.other is composed of panels of embroidery surrounded by '. lacej and [.with s this la used ; a pleated jabot^of ' lace and embroidery. . A' turn over collar and ; Jabot /in- Irish lace are shown," and also a s tiff ; standing collar with-, an vlrish:; crochet: bow and tab. Kmbroldery, Brussels net and lace have been .used*, for; anot her; bow? and • jabot; and. a; pretty little tab, ls made of If our \u25a0 flat pieces of /alternate embroidery- and .tucked'- net. "edged : with lace./'" One of, .tho popular /bow • tl»»«i; in heavy Irish crochet,. is -also; Illustrated. The day of the convenient and core- . Portable sldecomb is past These combs w»r« such an aid to neatness in the re straining of unruly locks that many women will find it hard at first to ar range their hair without them. How ever, there still remain as a substitute Invisible hairpins and Invisible nets, which will help to hold the stray lockj in position. There are many pretty thing" to b* worn in the hair this season. For the evening there are .lons sweeping aigrettes and birds of paradise, many oC them decorated with Jat or spangles. There are butterflies with jet wings or in colored metallic effects. Artificial flowers are also to be worn. When the hair Is dressed high they are arranged in a wreath and placed in front of the puffa at the crown of the head, but when the hair is dressed in a low eolffnre only a few flowers ara used, and th«so are pot la loosely and gracefully at one side. The new tarrettes are very broad from to? to bottom and have sides slanting a little upward. They are generally mad* of tortoise shell, either carved or plain, but the carved are the more favored. The very latest thing is to wear two barettes which match In design and ma terial. The3B are -worn with one direct ly above the other. The upper barrett* is very wide from side to sid*. Tal« -sjpporta the hair. The lower on* Is much smaller and Is simply used to con fine the "scolding locks" at the back of the neck. Coronets of carved shell or amber are used, also flat bands of gold or silver, which Urn across the front of the hair. With th* cqronet or comb of amber, amber tails mounted on long two pronged combs are sometimes worn. Three or four of these are placed here and there among the puffs at the back. When th* comb is of tortoise shell th* balls should be of shell also. A very little' color is introduced int.* some of the neckwear; this is for use with the colored linen waists, or with tho embroidered Waists, some of whic'* have a touch of color, but Vm the t/!jo?«« the -neckwear of the sea«on is wuiif? It is said that the embroidered linen coat sets may come into favor again. This probably 13 because the ronml Dutch -collar does not look well on certain of the spring coats, which open rather low in front and r«><iutre a longer and -more sloping 1 collar. It is also reported that . fichus of Irish lace are to be worn with some of the summer gowns. And while we are on the subject of neckwear It would be well to speak of. the popular and useful bar pin or the brooch that almost a necessity with the present fashions of dressing tho neck." These pins are used as a flntsh for. the top of the jabot or. tab in place of the bow tie. and tliey also serve to hold the collar and jabot (Irmly to gether. The little, "harniy pins" or "beauty pins'* 'are still ~«iuit<* a.t much a .necessity r a« ever In keeping rr*ry thinsr about v th» /neck trie and ship- I -*ifii^si i j ifi nTfTfrW^ssmsfslWTfsrA 'sWltr JViTjiPsriMt^»M'T]lJ_rilZ tJ shape.