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FENCING FROM THE STANDPOINT OF PHYSICAL CULTURE 0t r< ALUTE. young ladies!" And at V. the sound of the fencing mas . J ter's voice a score of Kirls swing into position, bodies that are inert quiver with excitement of a coming bout with foils, eyes sparkle with excitement and there fol lows a ring of steel against steel, tell ing that th* fencing lesson has begun. "It Is marvelous what I have been able to accomplish with my class," con fided the enthusiastic master during a. rest in the daily practice. "When I took them six months ago they were a xv kward and ungainly, hardly a single movement had grace and attractive ness. Now look at them. Are they not quick, sinuous, alert and well devel oped young ladies? Where could you find a more graceful carriage, a greater amount of suppleness and lightness? Ah. believe me, there is nothing In all the list of exercises so beneficial to the fetn4nine figure as fencing, and no girl A PAGE FOR MISSES should neglect taking lessons with the foils for at least orfe year If she looks forward to a successful * social career, where grace counts for almost as much as beauty. "Fencing lessons will do more for the Improvement of the feminine outline than any other exercise. A girl who is too Etout can not. fence well, so if she practices regularly the surplus fat dis appears as If by magic And the girl thai: }s too thin for the present beauty standard fills out wonderfully after she has had a few months' hard work with Fashions for Home Made Lingerie DIMITY Instead of plain nainsook or fine linen is just now extreme ly popular for all kinds of under wear, tnd for the girl who makes all or a great part of her own lingerie this Is a fad well worth knowing of, for dimity, having a pattern of its own, calls for far less trimming than & plainer fabric. Dimity of a pretty check or stripe design requires little more adornment than a single edging of lace and perhaps some little tuck ing, whereas all batiste undergarments are profusely trimmed with hand em broidery and countless Insertions of lace. . Both night dresses and chemises are ridiculously, \u25a0imple to make, and If a girl will only keep herself supplied In these two departments of her lln rerie she will have sufficient saved to buy what else she may desire* The prettiest pattern for, a summer" nightgown Is square cut, low neck, "with short kimono or ccp sleeves', the only trimming; being a fiat band of beading sufficiently wide for a one Inch ribbon about the - -neck and the same at the end of the sleeves. An edging of lace an lncn or less in width and perhaps a few rows of tucks run below the beading will make, as attractive a nightdress as could be de eirei This gown slips on over the head, the ribbons being tied in front at each corner, so that there no troublesome /buttonholes and button slips to make. v • It is an excellent plan to buy, one night dress of an especially pretty de sign and good fit as a sample ' from which to cut the others. If, however, a girl does not feel that she can ex pend ,so much u» really pretty gown costs khe can" buy ; a paper: pattern which will answer all requirements and Is, in , fact, easier to cut from. For chemise and corset cover as well as nightdress a square neck is now preferred to a round or V shape. Not only is the square more becoming, but over this shape the waist will be found to fit better and - also give a wider shoulder line. If a chemise is worn instead of a corset cover It crust not be' longer than a few inches below the waist, else ' It will cause "the skirt of the dress* to fit badly. A v girl-can not commence too young: to see to it that her.under skirts end coreet cover fit smoothly in order that her outer ./dress will look trim and neat and all unneces sary fullness and wrinkles J - be . avoid? the foils. Fencing seems to smooth out all the Imperfections of contour. And that is not Its greatest advantage. The quick movements required In prac tice will quicken the sluggish tempera ment. Fencing improves the vision, because a fencer must learn to see quickly and the body learns to move In the most graceful attitudes. Fencing means grace. One can not, become ex pert with the foils without acquiring sinuous and attractive poses and the movements learned in this sport are used unconsciously in every other. A cd. For this Yeason , a fitted corset waist is preferable to a chemise, which, unless it . is fitted in at* the waist with the lower part of skirt added separate ly below a band of beading, is sure to interfere with the fit of the shirtwaist and skirt worn over it. Cheap lace . is of All things to be avoided on underwear, and if a girl can not ' afford a really good Valen ciennes she should content herself with flna embroidery. For. a young girl the most attractive undergarments are of & sheer quality of linen, trimmed only with hand scalloping and perhaps some simple design of hand embroidery. The open English embroidery is now pre ferred \to L the \ French and * Swiss work, tnd tb'i Is, of course, the most effec tive. Also Irish lace, or rather baby Irish edging and insertion, have taken the place for, the moment of 'the finer Valenciennes, which, exquisitely, pretty as It is when first put on, never looks well after the. first washing. Irish," on the other hand, Ib, if anything, im proved by soap, water and ironing. When she is making her own lingerie a girl^should; always turn out 'her undergarments \u25a0 in , complete sets and not wear a lace trimmed chemise with an embroidered corset waist or a* petti coat trimmed? with one kind of a lace and a waist of another design. Naturally, : too, of course, all gar ments must be trimmed with the one shade of ribbon. This summer white ribbon is preferred tor the under waist and petticoat when a gown of sheer, texture is worn, and satin Is now in vogue rather than the wash ribbon formerly so fashionable. The satin, however, must be double faced. It is as important today for a petti coat .to^haveYlts" band; of Inch: wide beading with '\u25a0'. ribbon/ run' through " v as for, the • corset 1 :; waist ' itself ' to ibe * thus adorned. Beading can always be added to a skirt above the 'flounce,- and -if -the skirt itself is of sufficiently good qual ity and trimming It is^well worthw hile to add this i little finish should 1 the skirt have been bought -without It. : - ; Silk •' shirts . are * decidedly costly, but to make are comparatively inexpensive, and for warm 'weather are both hygienic and ; comfortable.'. Cut' from, any silk or D»ner ;oattern. ' i TheY; undershlrtv can easily ; be finished '\u25a0' at \u25a0 the ' neck with a .narrow .beading and; an \u25a0 edglngV6f ,:laceJ {With vs. little! Ingenuity fa Hiny? wreath or.' small } floral >spray can" be « drawn ='on th »" shirt i and ( ««.*! l v j" embroider ed/t.e d/t. thus making » this > garment f the t equal ?* of / tha most; expensive article -of ' its kind to "be found in the shops. :" .'"•: ' '\u25a0 w good, fencer will develop into a good dancer. To be able to dance, however, does not mean that one can fence right off, but the various positions will come more" readily to the beginner who un derstands the' art; of dancing than to the novice." . ,i~ GIRLS' schools invariably include fencing among their list of exer cises, and the classes are always popular. In the expensive schools high priced fencing masters are employed and the girls are taught to handle the SOCIAL AMENITIES FOR THE SCHOOL GIRL " I "" HE decalogue of good .behavior I embraces a code '" which covers a wide field, but, though there is much to learn about good manners, fortunately/ when once one 'forms the habit of taking pains about the little things, as well afe the big, .it' is astonishing how rapidly improvement rewards^ our/ efforts. .-"\u25a0:\u25a0*"\u25a0• One of the, little things to;constant ly bear jn mind is to ,ref rain from call- Ing attention to "deficiencies, either your own. or 'those of your friends. Nothing embarrasses more than being made aware of our defects by others, and sometimes consciousness of our own gets , Buch a T hold on . us that ; i t makes- us '; appear most : avirkward . and ill at ease. ', ; •-, ; •..";\u25a0" *.'-\u25a0-\u25a0' New Dutch - Collars and Pins PURITAN/ collars are ' favorite \ ac-. ' cessories . of the young girl's : shirt waist suit. These collars are made of . white linen > : finished ', with " tailor: stitched edges and stiffly ; laundered. In shape they greatly resemble the starched, unllned linen Dutfch collars, which are usually-hand embroidered in all white mingled with a* color. They are fastened with silk Ascot f ties or with soft Batin messallne shield 'bows' having fancy loops and! fringed nine inch ends. i - Soft Dutch collars, so called, are of batiste,, fine; linen, or lawn,* hand em broidered and : trimmed~ with ' lace, or of alloyer -muslin embroidery- finished iWith a Valenciennes frilling.* They are joined withj jabots of a, matching. material ,or with, Dutch pins. ' ? Sailor ;; collars ' are of J starched ; plain white or, colored linen'edged with hem stitching, scalloping or • .waving r: and embroidered; In. polka dot, ;Vihe, eyelet and blind -patterns in White, green, blue '; or- dark red.' With- these -^ colors are woven long Ascots of linen with 'art'de-; sign embroidered' enos done in all white or with colors. - : ; To -accompany, the stiir turnover col lars \u25a0' of , \ white jof solid L color; linen -are narrow, silk o cravats • having = butterfly) bows" and tassel finished, lopped" ends and bows of colored' satin; with a plait ed] center ' and ' plaiting ".bordered edges. Vj Stiff - Gibson; collars, (which fasten fat the -back of j the; neck, areTof /starched foils with such skill that they can parry and thrust with ' their brothers. In the city there are a few ; excellent clubs :fo*r the purpose of promoting in terest in this noble art. Tournaments are frequently held, and exhibitions which, are a credit to the teachers and pupils are given during the fencing . season. -. • • For a girl who has grown a bit rusty on fencing and needs only a few point ers the following will be found useful, and even the amateur who wants to learntheart of fencing will find them' of great value: -First of -all the fencer/ 1 should learn ; how to grasp the. foil. This should be held firmly so that a quick strain r from- the i : thrust will not loosen the hold, yet it should not be gripped or the \u25a0• hilt clutched In the hand/ Too 'firm, a hold will strain the wrist and forearm. Let ' the hand lie" flat on the convex part of the hilt, forefinger extended along, the foil and the other fingers curled about the hilt and resting flat against the .left side, touching each other lightly. ;There is a -great -deal of science in .the grasp of the foil, for through her . blade' the fencer understands her op ponent's play and her sword must be One cannot attain perfect manners except by most painstaking care, and so when we say or do the wrong thing we must not brood on it, but for get it as quickly as possible and en deavor not to repeat the mistake. Often a ; little slip in manners will* pass unnoticed If ' attention is not called :to to it— as, for Instance, addressing a persons by the wrong name. , « Some girls find it, extremely difficult jto re member the names of persons whom they met formally, the name*apparent ly,making little,' if any,, lmpression on their , minds. If it makes none they evade the matter by avoiding using the person's name. 'Sometimes we will .. perfectly under stand the name of the person we are plain ;v.or embroidered i white linen and are worn withoutpin or- tie. The Gib son collars in lingerie materials are ; so soft that, like the lace and. net "stocks, they require^ some sort of support. \The latest supporter; consists of a thin-cel luloid-sheet with apertures Vat either end ; and two hasp hooks / near ' the cen ter.- -The sheer .material is . merely pressed by the. finger tip into the aperr ture6 of the supporter and then engaged and locked on the other .side by the hasp. \u25a0 "" ; .'.;*;\u25a0\u25a0• _:;\u25a0: "'-:\u25a0 _____ — :.«"' — '\u25a0?\u25a0-;:; " Birthday Dolls THE-, girl who wishes to* remember ,the '\u25a0'birthday .* anniversary of ? some small ; feminine ; relative friend will finda- visit,, to the doll emporiums 'entertaining and Instead of the ; conventional • baby^i feature's": and garb,, dolls now have faces "of .varying ages and : are dressed V; • - There care 7 replicas of : the "summer girl," ? solfln'g^tyhni^tVyachtlnjf and mo toring enthusiast, bride, ; widow," French "maid,; waitress ;aod cook— all suitably garbed: ; Japanese tea room attendants, ; I)utcni";.f Eskimo : and ! i' Indian children, with different types "ofjf acer and i in na tive >* costume* :"and \u25a0 infant 4 dolls, f have countenances »'modeled from life 1 , by : ex pert lartists."-^- < f " . - '"\ \* \ - ; ' \u25a0 • Every thing "„ that an ;! American -V doll 'wears r - is -? now ; to' be }\u25a0 purchased s ready ;made.'^/rherej*are'- fashionable v frocks, ; gowns,fbath s l' robes i"^ wraps,* rubberized k rain f coats/ Leghorn,^ straw,lchifron s and ghats' and ; everyi imaginable acces sbry.' -- / " v ' *. ""\ : o'" free to ward it off- with lightning '•uickness. T:;',k^ : -"THE first attitude assumed by the | fencer as she steps forward or to the center of the field before plao lng herßelf on guard. Is as follows: Stand with the body, erect, heels Just touching and toes pointed out. the right toe in a straight line with that of "the opponent and the left foot at a sharp angle to the 1 right. While the body is held erect it is swung "lightly to the right, thus presenting a three-quarter view to the adversary. .The sword hand Is held on a line with the head. The left arm Is allowed to swing at the side,' not close to the body, however, and with the palm of the hand turned outward. The salute is a picturesque posture; and is a preliminary to the battle. While in the position Just described the fencers stand' at the correct distance from each other, this being determined by the length of arms and foils, and the arms of both' fencers fall gracefully at their sides, the buttons on the foils Just^ touching the floor. They should' strike it a little toward the left of the right' foot. At a signal both fencers step for ward, raising the right arm until It is on alevel with the top. of the head, blades extended. The hands then drop to a line with the chin, almost touching It, and the blades continuing upright. With a quick movement they speed downward and to the right, this being one of the most attractive -and graceful of the fencing movements. ,j With another quick movement the blade Is brought forward and the, tip of the foil grasped in the left hand, both arms raised over the head, and after a' second or two the left hand falls to the side slowly and half bent, elbow down and the hand on a line with the ear. It is: held some distance from the head, fingers pointing upward.while the right meeting, but. on addressing - her will thoughtlessly call her ~ Mrs. Blank in stead of Mrs. Brown, and -then,, aware *( our error, we will say, - perhaps, in a nervous, embarrassed desire to set ourselves right, ''Oh, pardon me, I knew you were Mrs. Brown, but I am so; stupid about names." Such an apol ogy is unnecessary, and, more than that, It is giving undue emphasis to. an : error wtlch.as soon as percelved.you can set right without' calling attention" to it. -'Let your mistake ; pass without comments but show: that you are; not as .stupid" as ; ybu^seem übyu by making, a point of calling" her by her right najne ias soonjasf possible. . \u25a0; .-. .'.~ ; -' \u25a0 ' ; j To remedy .'bur; mistakes is far better than apologizing for them in cases like this, * where the remedy can be im mediate., '\u25a0'\u25a0 , ' A College Girl's jTouring Equip .\u25a0>ment:.-''"- • ' \u25a0\u25a0fvft'% IN . anticipatfon /of a- trip of several weeks' ; duration : through a resrion where first, 'class : hbstelrles are con spicuously absent a 'college: girl of practical - mind has provided .herself \ with a number of small '-and easily . packed conveniences. . Into-a flat dressing case of pigskin lined with, morocco and fitted v" ; with : tooth and r soap i boxes \u25a0 she .' has found space jfor a manicure set, a sanitary closed ''case- containing: a hair, brush having a celluloid 'plate, under the bris-. tles to insure easy cleansing. .a pack age of nonscented dry. shampoo powder for^freeing * the'- hair of i oil and ; dust, a i metalbox, holding* a tiny powder puff, a securely 7 , fastened >v wooden \u25a0 case for', quarter jounce ..-screw 'top .bottle's ofT ammonia,: peroxide Vnd 'witch: hasel and a ;silk lined, morocco heart shaped af fair, h'oidingTf oiir sterling silver ribbon :: runners - reels.'-'A i beveled mlrrorl set |into , the'«back (of 4xß : inch ; black \ seal envelbpeTpurse.^which ' holds C stationery, a\ fountain' pen and its filler; t" is by.; a £ feather-weight j rub- i berized silk j raincoat f and h hat f and ',- a darkb hooded f ; kimbno,"^. whi ch "^ can VJV J be folded ; Into Jan * infini tesirnal v amount Io f . - Bpace.'-^;'^';. "•.\u25a0.-;,'•- : ,;..;r'* ", c :.-'\u25a0,.,; -\r.: \ : Aln addition lto the toilet, conveniences the traveling case accommodates a', pint • coffee! pot ' of j dull f copper J,wl th /a- remov- ':* able'insldeTpercblator.^aihickeriteapot,^' which i';?' may"? be 'f tilted u to^ regulate' the i beverageifto i the ''desired '2strerigth.V r a poacher^.which^cQbks.isixf eggs f and ' a nbriexplosiye i alcohol|cKaflgg \u25a0 dish', lamp which | generates Its: own -gas., '"• :\u25a0 \u25a0 .- The San Francisco Sunday Call hand rails Into position for "on guard" and the signal for the struggle to be gin Is given. " ". j ~ HE . position of "on ; guard," the I second In the series. Is equally In teresting. Lower the' right hand from first position, turning the knuckles down-ward, and move the blade so that . the left hand grasps it lightly. Then: raise both hands slowly and gracefully above the head,- allow the left hand to loosen ' Its grasp . and fall into position at the back of the head, keeping the ; arms bent and half outstretched, so that . the open palm Is on a , level with the head. Then move the right hand to the front, just a trifle below the breast and to the' right, with the elbow coming close to the body. Hold the foil in a horizontal position, so that its tip is on a line with, the eyes. Now advance the- right ; foot about 18 Inches, being careful to keep the right heel on a line with the^left. and allow the weight of the body to fall equally on both feet, so that ons leg feels no more strain than the other. In this position the body Is well balanced, yet poised' so that the quick est possible movement can be made without "any .difficulty. The lunge or extension now follows, and this is one of the hardest to man age. ' Stretch the right' arm from Its former position close to the body until, it moves straight out-; at the same height as the shoulders. The body should never be the least bit rigid in this position. In fact pliability Is one of the greatest qualities of the skillful fencer. Neither should' the /body be bent in this movement. Advance the right foot a trifle, keeping the knee directly in line with the lns\ep. Do not lean forward or . backward. : except when advancing or retreating, and be sure that the body la upright.- One. of Some Smart Hats Easily Trimmed IT is somewhat a pity- that the lin-' gerie hats are no^longer worn — they were so universally becoming, so at tractive to make one's self and withal so singularly appropriate with the style of simple morning, dress for which they were designed. However," no fashion can remain forever in fa vor, and the s.traw hats with large Alsatian bows of lace bordered lawn that are now so .smart are' certainly extremely effective.;' It is rather a fad among young girls this year to be decidedly "sporty** -In appearance on the tennis court golf links, , and. in fact,' for whatever \u25a0 form of- outdoor fun -or exercise they, may pursue, the costumes contrasting sharply with the charmingly pretty, and girlish -frocks and hats which are donned 'in the afternoon. : Soft brimmed.« comfortable Panama i straws are worn again for riding, tennis and . all forms of i more or, less strenuous exercise, but. unfortunately, .only a girl with curly, hair can look attractive In a Panama, for this hat ; requires to : be Vworn \ far down . on -I the head 'In a way which hopelessly flattens straight hair., - With the hair worn low on the: neck or in a. braid "down the back a wide brimmed sailor is almost Invariably becoming, and this year both white and black sailors are in vogue,, the: latter being, ;. perhaps, , the more fashionable. Mushroom sailors . are still in _ evidence, but flat sailors are more in demand than was ; the case last year. ;Whito duck ; and pique hats, severely plain, with only a' lawn scarf ; and bow knot or. large -rosette a sornarnenta tioii, are 'delightfully cool and light. There is 'no hat. in fact, : which so well takes the, place of .an. embroidered linen or batiste morning -With simple gowns of linen ; or ging ham i altogether ; the prettiest "• hats this year'afe those either of natural; colored linen ornamented : with an enormous bowknot of plain or' bright colored'rib bon or'nhe brimmed ;chip {straws trimmed ;with ; large' double , bo wknots of ft 1 nest lawn or; mull bordered with Val enciennes or bab, y Irisn\edrlng. . These; new hats are, fortunately, no more difficult for; a girl /to "make and trim herself than were th« lingerie hats of a few summers • back. ' First a gsiod straw,; shape ; must be -found,- .which. If too mushroom inveff ect. can: be "raised up on " the i head by means of ; s, ' flit ban deau or Velvet "halo,'! • It .fa almost • al the easiest errors to fall into Is bend ing as the body retreats or advances. When there is no one at hand to call attention to such errors the fencer \m apt to acquire bad habits, and for this reason class work is excellent pras tice. INimovlns; forward or t back-ward the start is always made with the right foot and followed by the left. One of the first rules given by the Instructs* is to ' take small steps, never lonf] strides. 'The position can be changed or shifted by bending the right kn«s, forward or straightening it This win « move the body forward or backward, the distance of the movement depend ing upon the degree or the bend. Wheat retreating or stepping backward al ways start with the reverse, foot, that Is.Vith the left and follow with the right. FENCING terms are unintelllglale t» the novice. "Tierce" means when the fencers have their foils crossed with points upward and blades to the> right of each other. When In the sam« position with the sword points t© the> left of each other the fencers are en gaged In "quarte." A lunge In "tlerca" is thrusting to the right and high, la "quarts'* the same movement la made with ' the swords to. the left. The regulation fencing costume Is one of the most picturesque of athletia attire. Short skirts are essential and sometimes they are accordion pleated. The plain gored skirt is as practicable as any. School girls often wear their gymnasium suits, and when they prac tice In the open air they don sweaters. The athletic field or the lawn outside the- gymnasium is an excellent prac tice ground for the fencing classes, and instructors have found that girls like the open air work far more than they do foil practice indoors. ways-possible at, this time of the year to find a good untrimmed sailor shape in white, yellow, black or any colored straw desired.' \u2666 , The large bowknot is then made of finest French moussel ine or perhaps * sheer embroidered batiste, the lice edge gathered In ' slightly to give s> softer look. Any girl can surely make a" pretty double loop or Alsatian bow- Snot, this being placed Just In the cen ter of the hat with one end of the knot left sufficiently long to encircle t&«> crown. 'This model can- be carried out In aay color, or combination of colors that may » be desired, and it Is not a bad plan to have for one hat several different bow knots/ of various shades , to change ao cording to \u25a0 the gown "with which * the hatls^worn. •'\u25a0' \u25a0 Linen and pique wide brimmed flat hats are not so very difficult to do and* are certainly worth attempting, so smart are they this season, \ ? lra . t . *. Kao<i wlre «hape must be pro cured, and this has only to be covered with - » piece of linen of the desired " h * d ?-; The : bes * and safest way of eOT ?! ln * * '\u25a0*** wlr « *» -*y Putting first a -good pattern In paper or cambric. this being done by placing a piece of the material over the top of the hat, cutting a slit in the center so that «, .**,? ' ! Ul> over the crown, ' and th *°* TT hh * n thß material fits flat on tho I>rlri l' cutting it even around the edge of the brim. * Th * llaJ ng for the under side of 'the -brim is made In the same way, the only, difficult part being the neat Join- Ing of this facing. The top of U* crown. __ of course, must be perfectly smooth and 5 flat, but the sides of the crowncan be hidden by the material o» ribbon of .which , the bow is formed. «a!?im* f r9 lw? y nnm^ of variations XS? •\u2666i. " • thU * * tyle °* about -the. crown and brim, corttin* rows of tucks, ill add to the charm of themodeJUbut for a beginner the sim ple design is unquestionably the best. -,- A hat is undoubtedly : the most lm- Portant^part'of a costume, but an ex pensive j hat : Is ; not necessary, at any ' rate In Ithe summer, when a girl has .plenty, of : time, to turn out any number of * fascinating hats; Even If she has not sufficient talent to make for her self ia' large, dainty Alsatian bow she can; then find a becoming straw. shape in white or yellow and.have made and .wired a.;. number of - different colored ribbon :bowknots. which she can ehan*e each time a, diflersat colored frock Is \u25a0 donned. ,.