The San Francisco call. [volume], July 18, 1909, Page 14, Image 14

About The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913

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HINTS FOR THE HOME DRESSMAKER.
The Newest Princess Gowns as Seen in Paris
Mary Buel
PARIS.— CSpedal Correspondence.]— Tb»
ysincess gown 1* übiquitous Just now in Paris
•ad everj' woman, whether ana be short or
tall, stout or eitm. Is waarls<r one. What is
more, she regards them es among' the neces
sitlec of her summer's wardrobe and is or
dering others for town or country, for sea
shore cr mountains. For many occasions
where formerly cotta -and skirts only w»r*
considered good style one sees now the prin
cess frock worn, and In th« majority o£ In- .
stances they look particularly cbio and stun
nl&g.
They are made up of every sort of materiel,
{rom heavyweight serges to the most trans
parent of tuUeo. end It is only a question of
p*yin? your money and taking; your chotoe.
There is one general rule, however, tnat
should be observed when- wearing on* of
these gowns, and that Is that It should be at
least two sizes too large and should fit the
fiaxtre or.!y on tb« shoulders and around the
hips. In every other place It should absolute
ly hasg on one. giving only a suggestion' of
the curves of the waist. Most of them are
Bade quite without lining ar-d are worn over
s. boned silk slip. These also hang- loosely,
«od it is left for the. corsets below to give all ,
tho eh&.pe end elegance to the figure.
The fastening of all these robe* is at the
side In front, under a real or simulated' plait.
or some trimming or motive that completely
conceals it. Some are without sleeves or with
«. email cap that covers only the extreme, top
of the arm. and in this case the guimpe and
eleeves are usually of the same color as tbe
dr*6s. Others have tlgnt elbow sleeves,
belaw which are sleeves of >ac» «r tulle,
always in white, or la w&at i» pretty, a soft
diver ls.ee.
• *
Trimming Used on All of Them.
appear on all of these gowns,
&thtr In the form of full plaiting* that are
Ist la on the lower part of the skirts in come
•dd and mysterious manner, in sashes, in
Wp draperies, and In most intricate and
elaborate embroidery and braiding. In this
last there Is really no limit in the way of
ornamentation, and It frequently happens
that the original fabric Is completely lost .
•Sght of under the mass of work that actually
covers It- Both embroidery and braiding are
generally self-toned, although some charm-
Ina; gowns have been seen In which the ma
terial employed was some soft shade, such as
dull rose or the* faintest of blues covered
wltti fine brsidingi In taupe color, or any of
the shades cf pale tan:
Some of them have the appearanoe of a
princess- overekirt covering a skirt beneath,
In these the lower part Is full, while the
hips are ss tightly draped as the material
will allow.
Others keep to the period of the middle ages
with tunics, cuir&ssee, and a vast amount of
a^jld' and silver trimming, which is used in
girdles, stomachers, and embellishments on
both bodice and sleeves. In these last the
combination of materials is just as Impor
tant as the cut of the gown, and the v more
cnusual and daring, the more successful.
Xaeonlo Tafare, on* of the. smartest oou
tcrleres in the Rue de la Paix, has made a
specialty of the princes* gown and her rooms
contain a collection that Is almost bewilder
ing it Is so varied. Thsre are tulle robes on
which passementerie is employed of raised
bullion- meet with stones, or outlined In Jets;
•dually there are doth gowns Inserted 1 with
the most fragile laoe, and both are charming
In their way. Just now foulards, cr«pe de
chines, and all the softer fabrics, with many.
linens and lac* trimmed batistes, are the laoet
attractive, although for the seashore there
were seen same good lightweight clothes
which were dressy and yet fashioned to
withstand all sorts cf dampness and wet.
• •
Linen Frocks Have Extra Garment
Borne of the Unen frocks have an extra gar
ment In the way of a sleeveless coat, which
also is opened under the arms and Is simply
caught together with straps. They are short
and of course are no protection, but they have
an air and are pretty.
Been in this same establishment' were some
dear little models which were Intended for
young girls, and these were composed of silk
bet in pale shades with only a little laoe
Introduced Into them, and with touches of
ribbon here and there. One of delicate corn
color wa* zz&£* over a eilk slip of #almon pink
and on the bodice and upper part of the skirt
w*r» lace Insertions of baby Irish lace.
• One of the novelties of this was a simulated
lacing In the back which extended from the
seek to midway down the skirt. Through
this was drawn wide satin ribbon of a
. deep salmon shade, which was tied In a bow,
the long ends hanclng to the hem of the skirt.
JLnoih r-r in pale blue had a ribbon sash draped
around the hips, fastening In some mysteri
ous manner at the side and also reaching tt
the hem of the drees. The ribbon was a huge
plaid in many shades of apple green barred
off with black and was striking and original.
Wedding gowns are always Interesting and >
when they are made In Paris for American
girls they seem to possess unusual powers of !
fascination. We hear so much of the wild
extravagance of these garment*, of the yards
of aatin, tulle and real lace, of masses of em
broidery, of pearls and crystals, that it Is well j
xiigb Impossible to Imagine a wedding dress
coming from this center of fashion that is not
more or less splendid. That they are made,
however, in the simplest style is proven by*
two seen Just recently, both of which will be
worn by summer brides of great wealth and
position. a
Material of White Chi f on.
The first will be seen at a Newport wedding
shortly and it Is being finished now In the
workrooms of Doucet. . The material. is of
white chiffon of a heavy dinging quality, and
the skirt, whichils made scant, has a little
train of not more than three Inches on the
ground. Around the hem Is a narrow Ore
dan embroidery done In white silk soutache
braid and a tiny bit of sliver embroidery. The
bodice is absolutely plain except for a small
square bertha which falls from the shoulders
both 'front and bade, and this is fashioned of
the soutache and embroidery. The upper
part of the sleeves and* the Inch vwjde ibelt
sxe also of the braid and embroidery.
The only scrap of lace Is seen In the small
gtilmpe and long under Eleeves. which close
tightly about the wrists. Nothing could be
simpler and nothing could be more girl
ish and charming. - \u25a0;
This particular bride Is not to weat I
the conventional veil, but a hat instead,
and this is of fine white mohair with a
drooping brim which almost shades the -
face, and a high crown. Its only trim
ming Is several twists of white tulle and i
silver gauze which are finished on the
left side In two large soft knots. In the
entire costume there 'is absolutely no '
effort at an unusual effect, but it is as
dainty and sweet a whole as any one
could desire.
The other gown . Is something ' more
elaborate and is being - fashioned at
Beer's after which. It will cross' the
ocean to make Its appearance at a coun
try weddtof. ;It is- of a period style
and has >an \u25a0 underskirt -of silver
gauze made narrow 'and quite short ; Over '
this Is ; draped white j silk tissue which fits
closely; about- the hips and continues up into
the high bodice like a princess. There is no
trimming on . the skirt, : but in', the : back are
long ends of the tissue, which are so delicate
and light that 1 they, float and wave with the
slightest movement of the body. " >
t # \u25a0\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0\u0084 -\u25a0-'^". ,;-'•: %*Vv <v ;V''
Veil Same Material 'as ;'. Goivn.
The upper part of the bodice and the sleeves
are of fine silver, lace, and on the left shoulder ;
Is a knot of, tulle, "-In the center, of -which Is'
fastened a' queer little old fashioned bouquet
of 7 orange i blossoms. The veil ; to be worn
with this ils of Ithe : same I material ; aB , the
gown, . edged with silver lace, and : catching •
It : ; together '\u25a0 In ', front - is ; a f high . : upstanding
bunch r of orange' blossoms.'^ It; Is charming
andT chlo,' and . it .will : be observed that there
Is no.embrolderyjbr lace or J anything to'de-";
tract from the simple smartness of the gown.
Paris la fairly bristling with novelties, and j
In every shop from the smart and expensive.
ones in the Rue de la Paix to the* more hum
ble and ' les« known In the Latin quarter are ]
all sorts of temptations , for the pocketbook. •
In the first: place, there are the new parasol
fans, or fan parasols, whichever one prefers,
and which are the most useful as well as
the prettiest little '* articles' seen \u25a0. In : many a .'
day.*Th«y.wer* Invented by one of the fash
lonable couturidres,' a feminine one, 5 of course,
who, however, does not sell them herself, but
has placed them In 'several of the largest ea
talbllshmanta; where' they are going 'like wild
fire.; \u25a0- ; : : '.'.\^- •*.-\u25a0- \u0084 \u25a0 \u25a0\u25a0 ; ..,.'• ;'
: They are made of gauze trimmed with tiny
ruffles or else have motives of laces Inserted
i Into theni.\- v Those of 'black'or, white are the.
best, ." although * v they.> come I In if all 1 the j pale
colors to match any costume. s^The handles •
are of wood and 1 are made decorative, co that
they are altogether charming. They- are
provided 'with- two or more little springs, lo
-j that . by pressing | each one can chance from '.
a;fan;to; a parasol. or, the, reverse.-. At the .
top of, the " handle ; is a long silk oord with .
tassel .ends, so; that when nerving as a fan"
they can be carried on the arm and when
raised : as a sunshade they are 'only, an addi
tional ornament. ' ,'r ;>; >. /"\u25a0 •' - -
Nev> " Combination \u25a0"\u25a0. Made, to Order.
,'l-When these p&rasol^fans are made to order,
"and tmanytwonien" are having them" to carry "
\u25a0with /afternoon'gowTJs,' a'gold; monogram Is
-Introduced'-. onto the '•\u25a0 hapdle.-'and'ijmall ; gold
; balls 5 finish * the ,'endp of the silk cords. .-; They ;
are ; a:' delightful 'adjunct, 7 to? any,. .visiting
toilet and ; a convenient ; one ; as well. .
• Scarcely : a season, passes when' something '*
new In" the, llne^of Is^iot launched,' and
this ;\u25a0" is "no* exception Jto I the'Jrulel' | Nearly
Jail' Frenc- women^hayeialmbst! afeellng on*
the t subjectfof f,veils/and" regard ithem; and
{rightly, ; too.l as ithe '-> finishing I ; touch, to any.
'toilet- '-They -select" them .with care and Jud^-"
•• ment, v ', they/J pay, j "proportloilately 3 more -.for
them than for other, small items of dress, and
the' matter, of arranging ; them ; over^thej hat r
lsione of vital ;lmportarice,< taking time and;
patience. ; . '\u25a0'<\u25a0 '['.\u25a0'\u25a0"'\u25a0 - : ..,-•" ' .\u25a0'" ":.-'. :.'' ".;-.",
V^There are two quite new veils this summer,
one (of < the r varletyj known- as'l". made *.*,• and '•
1 the other which comes by. the yard is new on
?account!of :itsimeßh. v; o;The flrst'are of a finei
\ silk J tulle? 'open < In t but , with f a ; large ;
thread, and on this are designs' In Chantilly,;
;. net^bf , most^wonderful! and iunusu'al
, Trees," fib wersn arid \u25a0 birds' are .the most com- «
I mon; Jbut* there/ are; also" little i automobiles,"
UinyU flying? machinesVJ,pranclng| tteeds* at- "
tached ,to; Bmartly/set yip' traps 'coaches andi
four,', and heaven ; only? knows ;jwhat else. :>f
,V sound : fearful/ but In 'reality they are \u25a0
extremely .pretty^ and chic and when worn,
.with the proper kind of hats aha in the right
place are dashing. \u25a0*; They, are really Intended g
for»automobillng or driving and when pinned
.tightly over ; a: broad brimmed panama they J
'give to It and^the wearer as well ! a great deal _
of style. They are i only' to' be had in a few r
colors;*black | and- white, of course; -ta'upe/
tiarlc- blue;-, and a pale yellowish tan which is*
becoming. 1 : \u0084/.- . . . ' \u25a0 -. • .»
Designs in :
The latest; veiling by the yard shows largo
designs,*, but unlike .those of .last .year," th-ey •
are , not \ heavy. ;* ;\u25a0 In '*; fact ;.the entire"':, veil ; Is j :
exceed lngly thin, jtheyrowh,; of '.which v It « is
made being little more than a cobweb. Some
of the designs are almost an inch square and
are .1 put \u25a0'-. in * quiteV close .together, ibutUheyi
are ( so } fine 7 , andi ; delicate ' that -.they * do ') not '•'.
give -.any • appearance; of 1 warmth," and 'are ''-
merely a eof t> protection^ f of* : the 'face. - .
• A ll • the . veils ; are being-, fastened as closely ;
about tthe'- hat fand « head *tbis* season as is "-.'\u25a0
possibles and j although : there (is \ much virtue 't
and ' becomlngness , in .veils! that ; envelop! the - C.
head -and' float ;oyer/ A the? shoulders,^ equally,
there* is" much'- style and .; smartness, ln;those
that Jare"' pinnediin'tplac'e fandlhave "no float- v
lngiendsJtbldistractjtheieye.'-v^The'prpper.t
arrangement of pne'e veil is quite an^art when'
one, is expected to folio >w,the decrees of fash-V '
ion and yet desires i comfort , asTweU.^,. . /. -y v !t ,
, .To .follow the* present; mode*; one must ac-;..
cept .: a ; species •of * marty rdom^lhX the kway; -.
ofi semi-starvation. .; 'f or^ It* l«r absolutely ! ta- "^
possible) to^ raife jthe • veil I f 6r> eVenlaf sip \u25a0of ("
tea "or : any, fragment [ of ' food.^iTb the lhltia- '
ted\thls'. all 3 may.^be" part"of the regime for
theFpromotiqn-iof 'thlnneesand at apy. rate It
Is, the. fashion, and as such must be accepted*
and^adopted;? j Z;^.^ /' ;; ; \u25a0. "1?.;.., ~'. :: ;','_- -.;-'- -.- "-. ,
"&Whlle; on Uhe "of i veils '; there Us one
more detail to be remembered andtHat Is that i->
they.* shouldjjraatch^thef hat"{oritheTcolor: of |
the trimming, • and this Is almost a cast iron* l
rule^jMcoept|ii;Uhe?cas"e of .white hatsv? With ;;
these many'women prefer.black veils, as glv-'
ingsaTceHalnlcbaracterUp^U^Jeritirejtbileth
Equally »;withs black \ hats, ?t especially^, thbse^
of i?, the f small 1 ! ratKerjJieavr-iwhlte '$
veils' Vi ar^!conslderedf.insthje*beßtltaste'andr;
they, take a way/f rorh the "perhaps tobsomber '\u25a0 '
effect Cwhichj all V black s giyes.Nplf,»however,^p If , » however,^
your ' black r head rcovering* Is .'decorated* In •
blue,"' green. ; purple,^ oy- what_ y ou f like,* your •
veil must be of . the same shade. '. \u0084..:.
r; "InWall^«orts > 'bf TneshYand lac* there has
never, been "such." a* variety j>f oolora^and dlf-.»
ferent shades of the same hue as 'are to be •
; found- at [present, QTbey^range from dark to i
> light 1 and '. back ageln. and < the dedgna 'are <
almost as numerous as tbe'ootors.'iThere'ira^
also veils ln : shades, which are apt not to b«,
becoming.' to T . the „ complexion ' and ) th*»e are
cunningly 'Jlned > with : the :fln«»t r plnk'.tiille,
which ';• gives Ca'iradJant ; look to ;the; face .be
, xieatb/J t7lThe*e> linlng-s . do >x»ti lnfthe'leaa t '-.
(show » and'., they ; are : wonders ; la \u25a0 th« Imenner
b f ) beautlflers; • \{ - : v." ; * '\u25a0' ;\- ',- \
of
clothes U Japane^ rrw[^cloOj,' which beXoreJ
The San Sunday Call.
now ha* Invariably be«n used for d«cor*try»
purposes, sueh • as wall hangings,: walnscot
lhg. paneling,- and the tike. The color is dell
clou*—a soft -warm shade between a tan and
a deep" cream— andi the fabric has a lovely
'sllkyiflnlsh' without any hard and unneces
sary gloss.- , It; is being used now In" all sorts
of .ways end Isfound to be most effective.
jltappears^injthe form cf collars ard cults
,'on.' many b.f ithe smartest tussore coats es
pecially; those , of black and white, deca
\u25a0lonally/ ltils: relieved by ; touches of bright
colored ; embroidery 'or by narrow-, piping 0 #
:velvet^and satin. : elthVri of "^whlch. Us good
It Is used f q>. saahes and long scarfs, the ends
of which are heavily embroidered or finished
with' ornaments of; gold and Jet.