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The Fashions of San Francisco From the White-House. ' / Seals I.™1 .™ h£t, Georgette model,' facing of putted. -white, velvet: trimmed with sawrV tailored bow of sealskin. • Street suit, heavy quality of Scotch cheviot in shepherd's chock; &elf covered button?.- :^ / - THE tailored gowns are,* as a rule, much more conservative, far less likely to change quickly and radically, than the more frivol ous afternoon and evening gowns. The , most extravagant vagaries are gener ally seen In the lighter materials, noth ing seems too freakish or extreme 'for them; but the tailor made goes soberly on Its way, only changing Its lines in a conservative manner, and altering its •mailer details. For all that these lines and details must be looked after if one wishes to dress in the prevail ing Etyle. | There are two quite distinct types of tailor mades, as every one knows; one ia the 50 called "classical tailor made," severely simple, in cut and placing its greatest emphasis upon good lines and perfection of fit and finish. This adapts Itself to the new- styles without sacri ficing Its own Individuality — yet it <soes, follow the change of the fashions, and' the suits, of last year in this class are different from those of the present sea son. The other type of tailor made is the dressy and elaborate street suit. ' This is apt to be much more unusual and daring; In its cut,' and is. often richly braided or ornamented with em broidery. : Every woman: is obliged to have one of the- serviceable tailor mades in her \u25a0wardrobe, whether she has anything else in It or, not- She may not cut if quite as-close as the man: whose lug-, gage for an ocean voyage consisted of some paper/collars and a , hair brush, " but with a Kood tailor made and a cer tain number of white waists she' is bet ter off -than with; three ; or. four elab-: orate and unsuitable 'dresses. Tailor mades of the other classes are f qr the women who need; handsome street 1 cos tumes for calling, for.; the* matinee or luncheon at a' restaurant,*, and can af ford to have one or several gowns of liiis sort In their wardrobes. Most of them are made this fall of the rich, lustrous chiffon, broadcloth, which is to be one of the most fashionable ma terials of the season. 7 \u25a0' There are some new . colors which have beea lately 4ntroduced,^with: new names which may not convey itfuch; to the uninitiated,' and '\u25a0\u25a0 lt> will simplify- matters^ to describe "some iof them.; Raisin is a\ purple :o: of 'the pe culiar, dull tone i of r the dried: grape; cedar, a shade of brown, which tones in •with old rose; artichoke,' a' dull" bottle green; chicory! a brown, which; leans more toward , red than yellow; aero plane, a rather dull greenish blue; 7ma- hogany, a brownish terra cotta. Almost , all of the colors this ' year are'.charac-' ' terized by softness, * and 1 the "; '\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0 crude,* harsh tints are. conspicuous .by their absence. The" braiding? done "at; pres ent on these elaborate tailor; mades :ls generally in a* fine twisted? silk *cqrd "or: in the smooth "rat i tall? « braid. *" There has : been i a ' violent' difference, of opinion amongthe leading, designers of. Paris as to whefher^thV;long. orithe' short coat should be the accepted; mode i of .the season, but* the ; verdict 5 seems" fto be overwhelmingly in' faVbr, of • the long coat. This type of garment is shown; PHOTOS -POSED SPECIALLY FOR THIS PAGE BY H. PIERRE SMITH ' : : : almost exclusively by the best houses of New - York and San . FrarTcisco, and It appears likely that tho short coat \u25a0will have to wait another season"-or two before It will meet with . accept ance. ,*• \u0084 .-. The persistent note of drapery which is seen in almost all the styles of tha season'; has. influenced ev.-n the ; tailor made gown" and the 'practical street I buIl" On the tailored skirt it has 'been translated "Into an elongated hip' yoke,: sometimes oddly shaped, with pointsor. a downward dip where least expected, x over the hips, for instance, jwith tha c lower edge in round v or shawl effect, ; and many unusual but 'effective cuts. A number of versions of the plaited skirts are* seen; some, have plaits extending; all the- way around^ but a more popu lar form has the plaits laid In groups with spaces between. .Some have,a; panel front and back and a combination - of yoke and " plaits :at the sides; in others part of the sidegore Is cut away r . to . form; a partial yoke, and' pleats ' are - set in underneath.. In fact, there -is an"; almost endless variety 'of ways in which the same general idea "has been do-; . veloped. \u25a0 '-.:\u25a0 \ v ;- . - .;..." \ ..-.\u25a0\u25a0.. .-,_ r 7,,.;--- yZ The. serviceable' tailored gowns of this autumn and winter are made as a rule of the rough . or shaggy, materials, the roost; favored ;f abrics fof's this pur- : , ' pose being. .wide. wale ; serge, 'cheviot. J zibellne,. - diagonals, ; homespuns and basket cloth. : The surface of each of these, materials, is; hairy,' the?: mesh is > loose and'open and the finish sis dull. Although |. they ; give/ an Impression ; of thickness and heaviness, they are really llghtvin weight, a - triumph which? the manufacturers have studied and worked for a long-time to bring about and; for which the women - who ; have ito 1 wear . ; them: will be devoutly grateful. .'The .jjkirts >i are" delightfully,, comfortably short, and as they '. are , unllned they are, ideal for ; walking and \ practical service.. ; Many ; mixtures are presehted in. the weaves this season; two* toned effects are particularly good and some stnall, checks are seen.: jThe"striped ! ef-> fects are" es;a ; rule ; in^ one color: only, T the stripe :. being; produced ?•. by V, novelty of weave rather ? than a difference of color.;;"',. -._.-.\u25a0\u25a0"-\u25a0.....\u25a0 \u25a0 - \u25a0\u25a0 • *..--, :;';\u25a0' \u25a0;/ - . It was rumored a -while "ago -that curves were to be fashionable again this autumn and the f stout women '.be gan r: to rejoice", I but' this .was"l a f little premature, ; and s it'; is ?notsr:r evident'^ that: slenderness of -flgure'7 arid ; length i and \ Etraightnessof line, are BtillUhe^things sought after. Thei'ldealiseemsXto; be much \ the' same ' as 'it? was^ last* year/; to^ give; as and; slim * anj: effect {£• ' possible, and ith¥"na9stVattractlve»'fea-^ ture ! of .'these " present; day .' modes; Is the \u25a0 '\u25a0] generally Z conceded^; youthf ulWappear- : ahce which they -I. leridj to \ the} wearer. ".{?. ;',.The -'i'ln^ • some cases ithey- are as - ; m'uchi as" seveffl r eighth", fitting, Iwith; a' decided (tendency,'': 'toward narrow, shoulders and* straight 1 flat preseht.^tbel\u0094 paneled^dr unseamed', back % is \ preferred, ibutTcoats » : , are also" made with j a'centenback''seaniK; \u25a0 Thef princi pal ichange^thitihasitaken" • place i intthe '. elaborate; tailor-made ; ' is , 'that^it.has becono«'inbre' ! fanciful|a'ndr decorative ;thani it, usedJtO'bel in|fofmer years. .* There ; is tendency/ to^keep away from i regular ,'coat^ seam ? lines. : The \u25a0 framed.: side \u25a0 ' gore; either.?: set"! ln; /.under-thej front \u25a0or;lappedt slightly: over it, is bhe>of. the^riewest' cuts^'vThls generally. terminates at'br^" atlittle - 4 be- , low \u25a0 the , hip, {and* of ten ° an'fodd shaped, pocket 'is- used -at its~'l6wer 'end.'! The 7*ftG> Waxy Thsifoffacf Suit<s ' \ Fronv the Emporium : large hat faced with 'blackivelvc.l • top- am ciou'irof gbld'satiivlaid in fadiat ing • pleats.".'^!" rimmed ; witli gar lancfs of gold chiffon roses. ".<-'. \u25a0- .; • "'\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0.\u25a0'. '<"'-•\u25a0'•'' VV' , "".\u25a0 ' '•<\u25a0- v \u25a0 VYid.oHvalc cheviot tailored Sui 91 soltVgrecn^ with the new loii reverse -'IZ'-'X- ; Jz^'"'.-'i'.~ \u25a0'\u25a0::.'/.\u25a0 '• changing V of jthe'Vi seam | lines;, so; com plicate* - the p miking j,of j, the'Jnew lcoats that \ it ( is irnposslßnity^i for the'homejfdresslmaker,?.to^successfully! "handlejthena7sk.'v^rh'jfact^itfis'fdoubt ' ful 1 if 'i the^ hpmernade 1| tailored:; suitH Is : ever] a' complete s success. r £| It'f can jhotjbe: qu(te -'the 1 samefia.Bjth"eJreadyjxnadeTgar. merit has • hadfaijcbrps^pf^experts • ,ehVa|f^d-j':uponyitVto'sbrlng*_it'jt6^com'r( ; pletioni" f or.; in {thVflargej establishments no : bh^: taliorlmakeslalwhoie^ suitl^Each ; part iOf^h^workitias^tsrownJ special^' ist,:,whoi? dbesf justfwhatjeomes ;_wlthln ' ,his!province|aria;'!thenVpasses|it|tolthe*. .neyt.^i Theyj*say4itvtakes^ seven f tailors] >to:make"a ? rn^an,^and;veryiOften'it}takes : m6re:tban"seven ; :tallbrs;to corhpletVohej suit for'miladi. Vi. •; '. •' '"• * \ « The \f shawl. icoll ar.-'J and :•: • very . < long notched \*re vers^f are".] | features *'.of ; v, the ; 'styles year V that j have Jjnofc^beerii Beeh;before^;j:^ntßjome_?ca_Bys\wlwrel^th"e* collars^and »'re\^ers*are*|ornittedYa'*.lortg, pointed * ; neck| "opening 4givesf; thef same : effect;?. 'i^This E *low^neck ! vb*pening|ghas"; 'called vf or th-aVnumber.^^of >^iiew,-; styles . r l/roni:i Samuels/- ' the : J^acc House,' chic bearer.' street hat of aeroplane.-. with fancy bird in sell colors, and bullion of dull gold \u25a0?^ Street Vi>uif.- : ; Vienna model, of pastor 'chiffon 'broadcloth, .elabo rately brakfed with fine' silk cor M.' 'Dull bullion "of old rose and 'gold on the .vest -•; \;~ '\u25a0' f. •'\u25a0?-l'~V\ ' :'\u25a0 . i From . Q'Coiihbr;;ir6ffatt ; & Co., ijack yehct shape,' emerald Para 3ise. aigrettes"*id goUl^lace *- "<'£ \u25a0'\u25a0: \u25a0'."'• •y"v ;v >::" '\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0'.'';••"' ; - v-^J'V: '- \u25a0 Blue -J diagonal .". | tailored /suit, built ''\u25a0 on^ the '^nevV lines,-' \ with framed^ sidel gore i'-C and paneled back ; black, velvet 1 inlaid; collar/? • in ••:, neckwear. (<', .xne: jabots ,: ana > ; rrllls \u25a0> : have Jt bI be Uonger;' and | f uller^in \ordert :to * fill f.the^space.VS; The-A cascadej Jabot; lisJTofteriif.used * lnsteadnof £ the'f snuiller; 'ahdj flatter^types.^Sorne: of ; these? shqw.j [the J fullness J on'i eachf aide't of i a" fcerite'r. ' band,-, of- embj-bidery rorfnacej\ while'? others 'jhave;a|one, sided frlll> . ; i;§;The;fmoit¥pbpular 'I lengths f or"> ; a.j. coat-, varies ifrpmi 45 sto'is4;lnches,{;rna.ny?ofJ the ? three Apiece J siiits.i ho we ver, ?^ havitfgj "coats * that \u25a0% are fasrilong^asS 56 s/iinchies.'-i TheseisultSihayejthe^blouse^buUtyhtbJ the^ gown,*| eitherias lia."lcontiniiatlon|.of j ;thei skirt in?: tunlc;ori : redingote?ef-; |fect,*and!over ! this?a^lbngicoatlis^worn:i So>.thatfat«;tfiejlsame ; |timel«you|havej a.^ery/smart'stfeeti costume,! and jupon; 1 removi h g jthe f coat jt a | house Ygowm.* fo r? a^,teavor, s an* afternoon: game }of bridge; : ;But* these ifare^npt^in^reaHtyAtailqr,; 'rnades^althoughSwhenlitheJcoatijisJoir; they J ha , ye I the ."appearance ?o'f ' bel ng j so.*^ fe-JThei coat? sleevesl? this J year? continue: to vbe; small. ViThey^are; either}; boxed: in" almost; plain :oa^the>rnore'^Beyere; prarmchtH,*"or.:/afej^setMn jwith^just|:ar little! fullness^ for :the\mbre/elaborate^ -~. - \u25a0 i • 'From \ Samuels, * the Lace' House. , . - ./Another view of castor street' suit; :-\u25a0' • ' : \u25a0•\u25a0 \u25a0\u25a0\u25a0 • . -__^ \u25a0 ; for- the (buttons, ahey^are jput j oni' rouch^mprej>sparlnglyvthan?the'y^w'ere- lastfßeasori.'lbutTstillftheyjfare'jjin^eyl^ 'dende-'j^PromJone i tbtithVeeJlarge fbut^t; .tons f Is 3 the'fe favorite \ number < f or;i clos- ; ; Ing * coats S with"!' tbe<Uong| rivers,)! and V sq me ti mes \a iy eryj f ew j[ are"* usea 'onXthe y i pockets 1; or 5> elsewhere -,'for'* 1 trimming;^ "but| r smallSbuttons^areVhbtßscatteredy * mdi scr imiriately.^as I they Iwer c t a*sh"ort^tlm*e!ago ; ";;'•;-'- X. ' ' - V ' X , ' •'* The hats 'worn with: the i tailored' suits " are' y' generally^ of ~£ beav.er . * -, or,? felt J and ? > th r ey-AareV*trimmedpve'ry^slm'ply. f iwithK folds- of V velvet" vorj^birds"^.or,^Vstlff^ algrette^;;.butfrwU T aJgr'eat;fquantity.;ofJ ttrimihin"gri l isjusedjbri|hatsj6f jthis -HypoTi'; ,The|tficorne|isgquite*a"*fayorlteTshape:, aridlits|tur,nedjback|brim?makesfit* be';* 'cornin^^t6¥almbstt|any^ f aceT| and 'also f; :giyes);anri"effectSbf|youthfulrieas.V > -Tu r " '" : bans? made- of J felt t. or jj velvet v among" .^ the P tailored^ hats*(and^Bora*e 111 1 | lar ge,T : tir ni/shapei \whlch *f flare >; up • on : ;thelleJftFside!rE*Fur| is yiisedfa^ great rdeal^ "on Uh*e|hats'^this jyear^bothJfbK,ba.nd» r ' anditfimmingrs.'.and' in; some fcasesHhe ' -Francisco -Sunday Call „ From the. -White nouse : -^' ' Tailored hat, " Marie Louise model, of brown - felt;, Rimmed with.* whit* -.worsted;; fantasies, consisting of a lace^oand and sim ulated quill. : Brown figured Chantifly veil worn in th€ ; n ew manner. Tailored suit of brown : Scotch tweed, double breasted ; velvet, collar.; '\- ;V- v ..:, . "••.*>«« shapes -themselves are constructea of;!t : Gold X lace f f and '% are .1 Introduced among I the ': trimmings lof i many lof TTT T the dress hats and* occasionally '«;Uttle' of From O'Connor, Moitatt ie€oT. old ' rose clfpiK'tl beaver bat. trimmed iviiti "Taft Rose*' 1 <ii 'the same <hade Tcrrx cotta chtffon broadcloth; cut in the new longf-walsted-ef fect; coat- and skift*p*ih€T;oriia "mented with self colored rat tail braid. '. \ the : gold * finds', Its way to " the i tailored millinery," but when this happens It Is applied In 'a'iTeryVsevere""and \u25a0 slmpla mannar • \u25a0:"