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The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, October 24, 1909, Image 14

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The Fashions of San Francisco
From the White-House. ' /
Seals I.™1 .™ h£t, Georgette model,'
facing of putted. -white, velvet:
trimmed with sawrV tailored bow
of sealskin.
• Street suit, heavy quality of
Scotch cheviot in shepherd's
chock; &elf covered button?.- :^
/ -
THE tailored gowns are,* as a rule,
much more conservative, far less
likely to change quickly and
radically, than the more frivol
ous afternoon and evening gowns. The ,
most extravagant vagaries are gener
ally seen In the lighter materials, noth
ing seems too freakish or extreme 'for
them; but the tailor made goes soberly
on Its way, only changing Its lines in a
conservative manner, and altering its
•mailer details. For all that these
lines and details must be looked after
if one wishes to dress in the prevail
ing Etyle.
| There are two quite distinct types of
tailor mades, as every one knows; one
ia the 50 called "classical tailor made,"
severely simple, in cut and placing its
greatest emphasis upon good lines and
perfection of fit and finish. This adapts
Itself to the new- styles without sacri
ficing Its own Individuality — yet it <soes,
follow the change of the fashions, and'
the suits, of last year in this class are
different from those of the present sea
son. The other type of tailor made is
the dressy and elaborate street suit. '
This is apt to be much more unusual
and daring; In its cut,' and is. often
richly braided or ornamented with em
broidery. :
Every woman: is obliged to have one
of the- serviceable tailor mades in her
\u25a0wardrobe, whether she has anything
else in It or, not- She may not cut if
quite as-close as the man: whose lug-,
gage for an ocean voyage consisted of
some paper/collars and a , hair brush, "
but with a Kood tailor made and a cer
tain number of white waists she' is bet
ter off -than with; three ; or. four elab-:
orate and unsuitable 'dresses. Tailor
mades of the other classes are f qr the
women who need; handsome street 1 cos
tumes for calling, for.; the* matinee or
luncheon at a' restaurant,*, and can af
ford to have one or several gowns of
liiis sort In their wardrobes. Most of
them are made this fall of the rich,
lustrous chiffon, broadcloth, which is to
be one of the most fashionable ma
terials of the season. 7 \u25a0'
There are some new . colors which
have beea lately 4ntroduced,^with: new
names which may not convey itfuch; to
the uninitiated,' and '\u25a0\u25a0 lt> will
simplify- matters^ to describe "some iof
them.; Raisin is a\ purple :o: of 'the pe
culiar, dull tone i of r the dried: grape;
cedar, a shade of brown, which tones in
•with old rose; artichoke,' a' dull" bottle
green; chicory! a brown, which; leans
more toward , red than yellow; aero
plane, a rather dull greenish blue; 7ma-
hogany, a brownish terra cotta. Almost
, all of the colors this ' year are'.charac-'
' terized by softness, * and 1 the "; '\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0 crude,*
harsh tints are. conspicuous .by their
absence. The" braiding? done "at; pres
ent on these elaborate tailor; mades :ls
generally in a* fine twisted? silk *cqrd "or:
in the smooth "rat i tall? « braid. *"
There has : been i a ' violent' difference,
of opinion amongthe leading, designers
of. Paris as to whefher^thV;long. orithe'
short coat should be the accepted; mode i
of .the season, but* the ; verdict 5 seems" fto
be overwhelmingly in' faVbr, of • the long
coat. This type of garment is shown;
almost exclusively by the best houses
of New - York and San . FrarTcisco, and
It appears likely that tho short coat
\u25a0will have to wait another season"-or
two before It will meet with . accept
ance. ,*• \u0084 .-.
The persistent note of drapery which
is seen in almost all the styles of tha
season'; has. influenced ev.-n the ; tailor
made gown" and the 'practical street I
buIl" On the tailored skirt it has 'been
translated "Into an elongated hip' yoke,:
sometimes oddly shaped, with pointsor.
a downward dip where least expected,
x over the hips, for instance, jwith tha c
lower edge in round v or shawl effect, ;
and many unusual but 'effective cuts. A
number of versions of the plaited skirts
are* seen; some, have plaits extending;
all the- way around^ but a more popu
lar form has the plaits laid In groups
with spaces between. .Some have,a;
panel front and back and a combination -
of yoke and " plaits :at the sides; in
others part of the sidegore Is cut away r .
to . form; a partial yoke, and' pleats ' are -
set in underneath.. In fact, there -is an";
almost endless variety 'of ways in which
the same general idea "has been do-;
. veloped. \u25a0 '-.:\u25a0 \ v ;- . - .;..." \ ..-.\u25a0\u25a0.. .-,_ r 7,,.;--- yZ
The. serviceable' tailored gowns of
this autumn and winter are made as a
rule of the rough . or shaggy, materials,
the roost; favored ;f abrics fof's this pur- : ,
' pose being. .wide. wale ; serge, 'cheviot. J
zibellne,. - diagonals, ; homespuns and
basket cloth. : The surface of each of
these, materials, is; hairy,' the?: mesh is
> loose and'open and the finish sis dull.
Although |. they ; give/ an Impression ; of
thickness and heaviness, they are really
llghtvin weight, a - triumph which? the
manufacturers have studied and worked
for a long-time to bring about and; for
which the women - who ; have ito 1 wear .
; them: will be devoutly grateful. .'The
.jjkirts >i are" delightfully,, comfortably
short, and as they '. are , unllned they
are, ideal for ; walking and \ practical
service.. ; Many ; mixtures are presehted
in. the weaves this season; two* toned
effects are particularly good and some
stnall, checks are seen.: jThe"striped ! ef->
fects are" es;a ; rule ; in^ one color: only, T
the stripe :. being; produced ?•. by V, novelty
of weave rather ? than a difference of
color.;;"',. -._.-.\u25a0\u25a0"-\u25a0.....\u25a0 \u25a0 - \u25a0\u25a0 • *..--, :;';\u25a0' \u25a0;/ - .
It was rumored a -while "ago -that
curves were to be fashionable again
this autumn and the f stout women '.be
gan r: to rejoice", I but' this .was"l a f little
premature, ; and s it'; is ?notsr:r evident'^ that:
slenderness of -flgure'7 arid ; length i and \
Etraightnessof line, are BtillUhe^things
sought after. Thei'ldealiseemsXto; be
much \ the' same ' as 'it? was^ last* year/; to^
give; as and; slim * anj: effect {£• '
possible, and ith¥"na9stVattractlve»'fea-^
ture ! of .'these " present; day .' modes; Is the \u25a0
'\u25a0] generally Z conceded^; youthf ulWappear- :
ahce which they -I. leridj to \ the} wearer. ".{?.
;',.The -'i'ln^
• some cases ithey- are as - ; m'uchi as" seveffl
r eighth", fitting, Iwith; a' decided (tendency,'':
'toward narrow, shoulders and* straight 1
flat preseht.^tbel\u0094 paneled^dr
unseamed', back % is \ preferred, ibutTcoats »
: , are also" made with j a'centenback''seaniK;
\u25a0 Thef princi pal ichange^thitihasitaken"
• place i intthe '. elaborate; tailor-made ; ' is ,
'that^it.has becono«'inbre' ! fanciful|a'ndr
decorative ;thani it, usedJtO'bel in|fofmer
years. .* There ; is tendency/ to^keep
away from i regular ,'coat^ seam ? lines. :
The \u25a0 framed.: side \u25a0 ' gore; either.?: set"! ln;
/.under-thej front \u25a0or;lappedt slightly: over
it, is bhe>of. the^riewest' cuts^'vThls
generally. terminates at'br^" atlittle - 4 be-
, low \u25a0 the , hip, {and* of ten ° an'fodd shaped,
pocket 'is- used -at its~'l6wer 'end.'! The
7*ftG> Waxy Thsifoffacf Suit<s
' \ Fronv the Emporium : large hat
faced with 'blackivelvc.l • top- am
ciou'irof gbld'satiivlaid in fadiat
ing • pleats.".'^!" rimmed ; witli gar
lancfs of gold chiffon roses.
".<-'. \u25a0- .; • "'\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0.\u25a0'. '<"'-•\u25a0'•'' VV' , "".\u25a0 ' '•<\u25a0-
v \u25a0 VYid.oHvalc cheviot tailored Sui
91 soltVgrecn^ with the new loii
reverse -'IZ'-'X- ; Jz^'"'.-'i'.~ \u25a0'\u25a0::.'/.\u25a0 '•
changing V of jthe'Vi seam | lines;, so; com
plicate* - the p miking j,of j, the'Jnew lcoats
that \ it ( is irnposslßnity^i for
' ful 1 if 'i the^ hpmernade 1| tailored:; suitH Is :
ever] a' complete s success. r £| It'f can jhotjbe:
qu(te -'the 1 samefia.Bjth"eJreadyjxnadeTgar.
merit has • hadfaijcbrps^pf^experts •
; pletioni" f or.; in {thVflargej establishments
no : bh^: taliorlmakeslalwhoie^ suitl^Each ;
part iOf^h^workitias^tsrownJ special^'
ist,:,whoi? dbesf justfwhatjeomes ;_wlthln '
.neyt.^i Theyj*say4itvtakes^ seven f tailors]
>to:make"a ? rn^an,^and;veryiOften'it}takes :
m6re:tban"seven ; :tallbrs;to corhpletVohej
suit for'miladi. Vi. •; '. •' '"• *
\ « The \f shawl. icoll ar.-'J and :•: • very . < long
notched \*re vers^f are".] | features *'.of ; v, the ;
'styles year V that j have Jjnofc^beerii
collars^and »'re\^ers*are*|ornittedYa'*.lortg,
pointed * ; neck| "opening 4givesf; thef same :
effect;?. 'i^This E *low^neck ! vb*pening|ghas";
'called vf or th-aVnumber.^^of >^iiew,-; styles .
r l/roni:i Samuels/- ' the : J^acc
House,' chic bearer.' street hat of
aeroplane.-. with fancy bird in sell
colors, and bullion of dull gold
\u25a0?^ Street Vi>uif.- : ; Vienna model, of
pastor 'chiffon 'broadcloth, .elabo
rately brakfed with fine' silk cor M.'
'Dull bullion "of old rose and 'gold
on the .vest -•; \;~ '\u25a0' f. •'\u25a0?-l'~V\ ' :'\u25a0
. i From . Q'Coiihbr;;ir6ffatt ; & Co.,
ijack yehct shape,' emerald Para
3ise. aigrettes"*id goUl^lace *- "<'£
\u25a0'\u25a0: \u25a0'."'• •y"v ;v >::" '\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0'.'';••"' ; - v-^J'V:
'- \u25a0 Blue -J diagonal .". | tailored /suit,
built ''\u25a0 on^ the '^nevV lines,-' \ with
framed^ sidel gore i'-C and paneled
back ; black, velvet 1 inlaid; collar/? •
in ••:, neckwear. (<', .xne: jabots ,: ana > ; rrllls \u25a0>
: have Jt bI be Uonger;' and | f uller^in \ordert
:to * fill f.the^space.VS; The-A cascadej Jabot;
lisJTofteriif.used * lnsteadnof £ the'f snuiller;
'ahdj flatter^types.^Sorne: of ; these? shqw.j
[the J fullness J on'i eachf aide't of i a" fcerite'r. '
band,-, of- embj-bidery rorfnacej\ while'?
others 'jhave;a|one, sided frlll> . ;
i;§;The;fmoit¥pbpular 'I lengths f or"> ; a.j. coat-,
varies ifrpmi 45 sto'is4;lnches,{;rna.ny?ofJ
the ? three Apiece J siiits.i ho we ver, ?^ havitfgj
"coats * that \u25a0% are fasrilong^asS 56 s/iinchies.'-i
the^ gown,*| eitherias lia."lcontiniiatlon|.of j
;thei skirt in?: tunlc;ori : redingote?ef-;
|fect,*and!over ! this?a^lbngicoatlis^worn:i
So>.thatfat«;tfiejlsame ; |timel«you|havej
a.^ery/smart'stfeeti costume,! and jupon;
1 removi h g jthe f coat jt a | house Ygowm.* fo r?
a^,teavor, s an* afternoon: game }of bridge; :
;But* these ifare^npt^in^reaHtyAtailqr,;
they J ha , ye I the ."appearance ?o'f ' bel ng j so.*^
fe-JThei coat? sleevesl? this J year? continue:
to vbe; small. ViThey^are; either}; boxed:
in" almost; plain :oa^the>rnore'^Beyere;
prarmchtH,*"or.:/afej^setMn jwith^just|:ar
little! fullness^ for :the\mbre/elaborate^
-~. - \u25a0 i
• 'From \ Samuels, * the Lace'
House. , . -
./Another view of castor street'
suit; :-\u25a0' • ' : \u25a0•\u25a0 \u25a0\u25a0\u25a0 • . -__^ \u25a0
; for- the (buttons, ahey^are jput j oni'
'dende-'j^PromJone i tbtithVeeJlarge fbut^t;
.tons f Is 3 the'fe favorite \ number < f or;i clos- ;
; Ing * coats S with"!' tbe<Uong| rivers,)! and V
sq me ti mes \a iy eryj f ew j[ are"* usea 'onXthe y
i pockets 1; or 5> elsewhere -,'for'* 1 trimming;^
"but| r smallSbuttons^areVhbtßscatteredy
* mdi scr imiriately.^as I they Iwer c t
a*sh"ort^tlm*e!ago ; ";;'•;-'- X. ' ' - V ' X , '
•'* The hats 'worn with: the i tailored' suits "
are' y' generally^ of ~£ beav.er . * -, or,? felt J and ?
> th r ey-AareV*trimmedpve'ry^slm'ply. f iwithK
folds- of V velvet" vorj^birds"^.or,^Vstlff^
algrette^;;.butfrwU T aJgr'eat;fquantity.;ofJ
ttrimihin"gri l isjusedjbri|hatsj6f jthis -HypoTi';
aridlits|tur,nedjback|brim?makesfit* be';*
'cornin^^t6¥almbstt|any^ f aceT| and 'also f;
:giyes);anri"effectSbf|youthfulrieas.V > -Tu r " '" :
bans? made- of J felt t. or jj velvet v
among" .^ the P tailored^ hats*(and^Bora*e 111 1
| lar ge,T : tir ni/shapei \whlch *f flare >; up • on :
;thelleJftFside!rE*Fur| is yiisedfa^ great rdeal^
"on Uh*e|hats'^this jyear^bothJfbK,ba.nd» r '
anditfimmingrs.'.and' in; some fcasesHhe '
-Francisco -Sunday Call
„ From the. -White nouse : -^'
' Tailored hat, " Marie Louise
model, of brown - felt;, Rimmed
with.* whit* -.worsted;; fantasies,
consisting of a lace^oand and sim
ulated quill. : Brown figured
Chantifly veil worn in th€ ; n ew
Tailored suit of brown : Scotch
tweed, double breasted ; velvet,
collar.; '\- ;V- v ..:, . "••.*>««
shapes -themselves are constructea of;!t
: Gold X lace f f and '% are .1 Introduced
among I the ': trimmings lof i many lof TTT T the
dress hats and* occasionally '«;Uttle' of
From O'Connor, Moitatt ie€oT.
old ' rose clfpiK'tl beaver bat.
trimmed iviiti "Taft Rose*' 1 <ii
'the same <hade
Tcrrx cotta chtffon broadcloth;
cut in the new longf-walsted-ef
fect; coat- and skift*p*ih€T;oriia
"mented with self colored rat tail
braid. '. \
the : gold * finds', Its way to " the i tailored
millinery," but when this happens It Is
applied In 'a'iTeryVsevere""and \u25a0 slmpla
mannar • \u25a0:"

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