The San Francisco call. [volume], February 06, 1910, Page 12, Image 12

About The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
For Belt, Collar and Bow
A MOST acceptable design is my
offerir.3 this week to all wearers
cf the white linen shirtwaist. Tho
design supplied has been adapted
to a belt, a collar and a. email double
bow. and with all due regard to the
needs of the greatest number.
The belt is of a very normal width.
The collar measures twelve and a half
Inches instead of the persistent thirteen
end over which is too large for a
treat majority of women. Its height
also is average, and tho little bow is
neither extreme in size nor style.
Jfow let me tell you how to work it
tnoet effectively. Tha belt first, because
our best •work, after we have gained by
experience, should be bestowed upon
those pieces nearest the face, for be
coming reasons. The whole pattern ex
cept the stems will be done in solid
ever-end-over stitch, because In this
way will the work gain In richness.
The collar is worked in like manner.
\u25a0Lfier Its edge has been slightly padded
end buttonholed. There Is an interest
ing variation in the scallops, which are
reversed along the lower, edge; but the
corded edge of the buttonhole 13, as
usaal. the extreme outside finish to tha
collar.
Both sections of the bow-are button
How to Apply the Design
fPHERE are two ways to apply
- 1 - this design to the material
upon which you wish to work it.
If your material is sheer — such
os handkerchief linen, lawn, batiste
and the like — the simplest mehtod
is to lay the material over the de
sign and, with a well-pointed pencil,
draw over each line.
If your material is heavy, secure
* piece of transfer or impression
paper. Lay it, face down, upon this ;
then draw over each line of the
paper design with a hard pencil or
the point of a steel knitting needle.
Upon lifting the pattern and trans
fer paper you will find a neat arid
Jiecurate impression of the design
upon your material.
j There are two points to observe
in this simple process, if you would
execute it satisfactorily. One is,
6ce that your material is level — cut
and folded by a thread — and that
your design is placed upon it evenly
at every point.
The second is, when placed accu
rately, secure the design to the ma
terial with thumbtacks -or pins <*o
iliai they cannot slip during the
operation;
Transfer paper- comes in white,
FOR THE INDUSTRIOUS NEEDLEWOMAN
holed along their edges; the upper sec
tion is worked In solid over-and-over
etitch, .while the continuous row of eye
lets in the lower section provide variety
and conduce to a less heavy appearance
in the finished tie.
It Is most satisfying to possess the
whole linen set done in one design, and
this touch of handwork, when worn with
a plain linen shirtwaist, will suggest
an embroidered whole. Quantity is not
always as effective as quality, and in all
neckwear the actual stitches should bo
put in with precision. Time lavished
upon a good piece of linen, small but for
personal wear, is never misspent.
Somebody has facetiously remarked:
"By their neckwear shall we know
them," and It was truly said. The ex
quisite woman, and she who la slovenly,
each show their propensities along these
personal lines in their neck "fixings,"
and It is with 'equal certainty that wom
an reveals her age by the neckwear she
adopts.
The trim, trig woman/ whose collar is
well made and "stays put," Is she who
is young or else ehe -who— although ap
proaching the uncertain age— has suf
ficient of a hold upon herself and upon
her collar to keep gracefully clad, and,
withal, becomingly.
black, "blue, red' and yellow. I ad
vise the use of the lighter colors
when possible, as the black and blue
are so liable to crock.
Do not rest your hand or finders
upon any part of the design you are
transferring, elsa the imprint of
hand or fingers will be as distinct
upon the material as the drawn
lines of the design.
When Embroidering
Stockings/
DO YOU intend to embroider stock
ings for the summer? Do It now.
The work will not be quite so
rapid as some pieces of embroidery
and you will not regret an early start.
Low shoes, slippers and the pump
bring about an annual desire for the
beautiful in hosiery. Gay costumes add
to the craving for harmony between
gown and footgear, and contagion
spreads along the line.
"Mabel . is embroidering clocks upon
her gray silk stockings; why, shouldn't
I polka dot my own?"
It is pleasant work, although, as I
suggested, slow, because the material is
elastic. "What other women have done
can be accomplished again,'.' say hosts
of embroiderers, and proceed to trace
ADELAIDE BYRD
designs upon gorgeous silken hose, not
withstanding the difficulties.
That pattern whicli will turn out most
satisfactorily Is the one designed so^that
there are no rights and lefts. Because of
the elasticity of stockinette, designs
planned for the different feet are diffi
cult to keep in position. They usually
result in merely looking crooked. The
straight design, applicable to either foot,
may more readily be- kept on a direct
line with the weave of the stocking,
and will turn out more perfectly in the
end. ..•'.:.
,The hand-embroidered stocking is an
expensive luxury when purchased or
ordered. Those done at home are with
in the range of possibility for all who
can use their fingers and who know how
to select a good-wearing bargain in silk
stockings.
Outlining and satin stitch enter into
the work. Short embroidery needles are
beet. Designs are traceable by the use
of carbon paper, if the modern transfer
pattern Is not to hand in one of its many
convenient formß.
A very small hoop or darner will be
absolutely neceesary, and in using the
latter the knowing worker will not
overstitch her material.
An old method .was the ripping of the
stocking seam during the work, but I
cannot In the least subscribe to this
practice. No amount of carefulness can
successfully remake the dilapidated
stocking which will result from the rip
ping process.
There are various patterns for Instep
embroidery, as well ac blossoms for tha
co-called "powdered", pattern. This all
over blossom Is not so well liked as the
inetep design, including upright stems,
occasional conventionalized leaves and
clusters of small petaled flowers.
A darker shade of the stocking color is
exceedingly good taste for the wearer
of simple clothes. The French wear
black silken hose, ..with vivid azalea
pink in the blossoms, shading, from
light to a deep and glorious shade, but
conspicuous to a degree.
Between these two : there are whole
lines of color suggestions, such as black
upon black, with the smallest touches of
lavender. Gray backgrounds are em
broidered in white with a deeper gray
to enrich the whole. Gold color on the
tan stocking cannot be resisted by the
\u25a0wearer of brown. -V
Tho fashion for carrying out such da
signs as the forget-me-not and the wild
rose in their own naturalistic: colors is
now frowned upon, and scattered?blos
soms, circles or dots take first rank,
with certain panel designs having per
pendicular lines carrying an occasional .
blossom or group throughout their
length. * <
Padding is resorted to aa a firm basis
for stocking embroidery. And were. l to.
tell yoai the choice, piece of .work,- I ;
should suggest bride's stockings of white
silk, worked heavily with white. t
A Present Forßaby
A PRETTY present. to give a' baby, ls
an embroidered band to fasten the
little one into the carriage. '. Choose
a piece of thick white-satin - ribbon,
2% inches wide, and fourteen inches long. *
Powder. it with small blossoms wrought
with filo silk in .the natural colors, tiny
rosebuds?, daisies-, buttercups, forget-me-,".
nots. Lin© with satin the color of
any of the * flowers. Interlining with
canton flannel to give substance to the
band. ;
Sew a full ' rosette of narrow white ;
satin ribbon, % inch -wide, it-each end v
of the band, and fasten under them ; two
pieces of the same ; ribbon, each '-. about
% yard long, to ' 'tie "the i band ' to" the ?.
carriage.; A strip of fine white'llnen may
be substituted for the wideV, satin v
with equally pretty -J effect,' arid .when
soiled ;«can r ;be . restored ito its original -
beauty by a, careful -laundress. ;::,,. \u25a0
' Very dainty also are 'bands' embroid
ered-Jn. a single color, with the ro
settes at . the \u25a0 ends '. to • match. \u25a0' Forget
me-nots with - blue 'ones," and : - rosebuds *
with pink," are most frequently chosen.
Hand-Made Ties
RICH neckties may be made on silk.
In darned stitch, but they are for
the man with a leaning toward the
curious in ties. \ Don't thrust them ,upon
even the .brother, of plainer taste; they
are too beautiful ,< to be wasted.
\u25a0 Quite evidently a cast-off tie has
6erved ;as pattern and as model; the
construction and workmanship are per
fect.
The background material Is soft,
heavy armure silk with a curious nov
elty weavje resembling the surface of
huckaback linen toweling. •
The darning, which runs across the
tie, has been worked through the loose
etltch In the weave before the tie has
been made up.
This gives the appearance of rich silk
of brocade effect and not that home
made or needlework look which man
•naturally scorns.
The colors mean much in the final
and manly aspect, and should be chosen
\u25a0with a view to the selection of the man
of taste.
VARIETY IN HANGING PINCUSHIONS
SIMPLEST of all among banging pln
; cushions is that made of straight
. strips of pasteboard flanked : by: a
piece exactlj'.like'it, each cornered with
flowered -'ribbon, . sewed together: round
: their : four "sides, - stuck ; with ' pins and,
; hung up iWith* tiny ribbon, v This • pretty
bit " of work' Is ' scented— oh; T so slightly^ '
and wadded the least bit wlth^whlte cot
ton just : beneath Its pink-ribbon -surf ace. ;
The heart-shaped cushion- has 'been
boxed and corded. . The box cover ret.
quires : a v box "cushion*; beneath It ; and
for, the ;beneflt"of do not
know, let us . say. ; that f ; boxing - means
Inserting: a strip, , wide : or," narrow, "along i
the edges Instead ?of ' sewing back \u25a0
A French Hat Brush
POII one of the daintiest hat brushes
you can| imagine, select a plain
back of irreproachable shape and
no ornamentation whatever, "and with
good white bristles.
Before covering the wooden back it
may be very lightly rubbed with a. fine
sandpaper, to roughen the surface so
that the glue Will hold. -
Now for the French Louis cover.
This Is made of corded silk of a deep
cream, embroidered slightly with rib
bon, work in an oDiong medallion de
sign. The silk' is so cut as to entirely
cover the wooden back except on the
bristle side, and when the paste Is ap
plied to the silk care should be taken
that it does not touch that part be
neath the ribbon medallion, nor the
top of the brush, but only along the
edge of the silk. Do not turn in the
edge, but after the i glue is dry, paste
over it a narrow golu lace gauoou.
To be as French as possible in effect,
the creamy tone of the silk should be
soft and old, the rococo embroidery of
flowers should be soft In tone and the
palloon of fi more bronze coloring:.
and ; front i Immediately together. .'\u25a0 The
process results in a thicker; cushion— -a
more shapely.- ; ; The ; cords ; are merely, a
decoration. In'colorUhe heart; cushion
is crimson white, with crimson cord'
and^whlte*'! ribbons. '.'.-. !'\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0.
\u25a0 5 Blue forget-me-nots : are painted upon
a ••'. heavy > white ; satin surface \u25a0" on \the
French; doll cushion. : The. heart, has been
The San Francisco Sunday Call
Of Unbleached Muslin
yERY coarse, open, unbleached mus
lin will work out In most stylish
effect, as a Russian blouse dress
with a long tunls.
Cross-stitched in white, or even in a
deeper shade of ecru, the garment will
prove unusual and picturesque.
A combination of the heaviest ecru
floss and a fine white embroidery cot
ton will give another and a richer ef
fect. Here the skilled embroiderer may
work in long and short stitches to the
best of her ability and to her lasting
satisfaction.
There I* little doubt as to the wearing
quality of >his garment. The life of
unbleached muslin is well known. In
selecting the quality, that to be avoid
ed is the very firm and heavy. <•. ~
Mending With Plaster
IN LIEU of drawing the torn edges
of a dress together with si]k
thread, or even with the frayed
.threads of the material, an excellent
plan lies in your medicine chest.
-That sounds a trifle startling to the
needleworker, but listen. A piece of
court plaster will form a good work
ing basis upon which a comparatively
invisible reparation can be made.
If the tear be on the plain width the
skirt should be laid upon a table, the
edges pulled together and pinned
down and finally the strip of court
plaster applied. A hot iron will press
the edges together, and the frayed
threads should be cut away as a fin
ishing touch.
A Brown Sweater
ONE of the most fetching examples
of the long sweater coat Is of
leather-colored yarn made with
cuffs and a turned-down collar of rich
green and ornamented with brass but
tons.
These durable colors should appeal to
the knitter whose desire it is to make
a garment not ?o perishable as the deli
cate white sweater.
sewed together and filled with whit*
lambs- wool, no hard cushion being nec
essary. rAfter". the \u25a0 doll's puffed cap of
white satin was made. and sewed on, an
opening ' at^the ,top of the cushion was
fastened round dolly's t'neck. and blue
ribbon rosettes \ were added as a finish.
:. The Japanese "doll as a pinholder does
excellent, duty:' he 'is willing 'and ab!*
For the Traveler
THE necessities of the traveler are
so "generously anticipated nowa
days that roughing it is fast be
coming a thing of the past.
'The finding of what is wanted in a
hurry is a well-known difficulty to those
en route; in fact, a lucky traveler is ha
who can get within a few miles of cer
tain necessary. ltem3 at a given time.
Modern case 3 have been designed by
the clever for almost everything under
the sun. and among the latest are those
for various wants peculiar to the Indi
vidual.
There, for instance. Is the case for
the telegraph blanks. It will be a boon
to the man with the telegraphing habit
well developed.
Then we are shown the tablet or caas
containing space for the traveler's own
checks and a permanent blotter to pre
vent the blurring.
For the invalid there !3 a useful case
specially designed to carry prescriptions,
and for the inveterate gadabout from
placa to place there are numerous forms
of luggage label cases made of crocodile
skin, morocco and leather in the most
attractive colors, such as blu», mow
green and red. Every hardened trawler
Invents her own luggage labels and has
them made for her. so that aha may
Identify her baggage with celerity.
A very luxurious case contains all tha
smaller ones that have previously been
mentioned, and has a drawer with a se
cret opening, so that tho contents there
•ln are absolutely safe from prying eyea.
How to carry her money wfcile> travel-
Ing Is a problem that many woman
would gladly solves Every nation has
Its own coinage, and when tha money
Is mixed It is indeed troublesome to piclc
out the piece that la wasted. A cas»
that takes English, French* Oexman eerf
American coins asd notes la a capital
idea, and tho more so sinca it Is fnolosed,
in very compact and particularly; «af«
form.
A Green Skate Bag
BROADCLOTH Is too dellcat* tor
' the skate bag. but there are> heavy
weights in dark green billiard
cloth and flannel which are tha Ideal
qualities for such rough usage. Then,
again, there is the lightweight kerssy
cloth.
For the rosy-faced young girl to> use
almost any gay color harmonizing with,
the costume will be pretty: but & man's
skate bag should be black, blue* cr green
—as dark as possible — and made with or
without a heading, but with a casing so
broad that cold fingers will not be hurt
unduly In the opening and shutting
process. *
Not ribbons, but double strings ox
heavy mohair braid is the sensible
material for drawing up> tho bag.
Fancy Work Glue
A MOST desirable boiled pasts Is
made in the following way for all
sorts of fartcy work Involving the
plulng of linen, crepe, silk, poplin, ere- f
tonne or chintz, with pasteboard or
lightweight wood.
The ingredients are gluten flour, alum
and water.
To one cup of gluten, or whole wheat.
flour add one cup qf cold water, and
mix them wefl together. Then add two
cr three cups of boiling water, stirred
slowly in. Eoil. and stir five minutes,
or uretil it clarifies: and then add one
teaspconful of powdered alum dissolved
In cold water.. This glue will keep fora
week or more if put in a jar or bowl
without a lid. To cover it is to sour It.
as well as easy to construct. Ills sepa
rate head, cruel as it may sound, may
be bought and fastened to the oblong
square of ribbon which has been stuffed
.with wool. Ribbon sleeves, sash and bow
at the back complete his Japanese outfit,
after which he unflinchingly receives
whatever pins you give him.
When the small, complete doll Is used
as a cushion its legs are removed, which
is even worse treatment, and the wool
filled bajr add^d as a lower section. The
ribbon by which the little creature Is
hung Is first fastened round his neck by
way of stock collar.
On the whole, the hanging cushion in a
convenient place is an acceptable add!-
tfon to most dressing bureaus, and both '
the : heart and the 'flat-shaped cushion'
will make- acceptable cif t3 for the friend
who is going- away.