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For Belt, Collar and Bow
A MOST acceptable design is my offerir.3 this week to all wearers cf the white linen shirtwaist. Tho design supplied has been adapted to a belt, a collar and a. email double bow. and with all due regard to the needs of the greatest number. The belt is of a very normal width. The collar measures twelve and a half Inches instead of the persistent thirteen end over which is too large for a treat majority of women. Its height also is average, and tho little bow is neither extreme in size nor style. Jfow let me tell you how to work it tnoet effectively. Tha belt first, because our best •work, after we have gained by experience, should be bestowed upon those pieces nearest the face, for be coming reasons. The whole pattern ex cept the stems will be done in solid ever-end-over stitch, because In this way will the work gain In richness. The collar is worked in like manner. \u25a0Lfier Its edge has been slightly padded end buttonholed. There Is an interest ing variation in the scallops, which are reversed along the lower, edge; but the corded edge of the buttonhole 13, as usaal. the extreme outside finish to tha collar. Both sections of the bow-are button How to Apply the Design fPHERE are two ways to apply - 1 - this design to the material upon which you wish to work it. If your material is sheer — such os handkerchief linen, lawn, batiste and the like — the simplest mehtod is to lay the material over the de sign and, with a well-pointed pencil, draw over each line. If your material is heavy, secure * piece of transfer or impression paper. Lay it, face down, upon this ; then draw over each line of the paper design with a hard pencil or the point of a steel knitting needle. Upon lifting the pattern and trans fer paper you will find a neat arid Jiecurate impression of the design upon your material. j There are two points to observe in this simple process, if you would execute it satisfactorily. One is, 6ce that your material is level — cut and folded by a thread — and that your design is placed upon it evenly at every point. The second is, when placed accu rately, secure the design to the ma terial with thumbtacks -or pins <*o iliai they cannot slip during the operation; Transfer paper- comes in white, FOR THE INDUSTRIOUS NEEDLEWOMAN holed along their edges; the upper sec tion is worked In solid over-and-over etitch, .while the continuous row of eye lets in the lower section provide variety and conduce to a less heavy appearance in the finished tie. It Is most satisfying to possess the whole linen set done in one design, and this touch of handwork, when worn with a plain linen shirtwaist, will suggest an embroidered whole. Quantity is not always as effective as quality, and in all neckwear the actual stitches should bo put in with precision. Time lavished upon a good piece of linen, small but for personal wear, is never misspent. Somebody has facetiously remarked: "By their neckwear shall we know them," and It was truly said. The ex quisite woman, and she who la slovenly, each show their propensities along these personal lines in their neck "fixings," and It is with 'equal certainty that wom an reveals her age by the neckwear she adopts. The trim, trig woman/ whose collar is well made and "stays put," Is she who is young or else ehe -who— although ap proaching the uncertain age— has suf ficient of a hold upon herself and upon her collar to keep gracefully clad, and, withal, becomingly. black, "blue, red' and yellow. I ad vise the use of the lighter colors when possible, as the black and blue are so liable to crock. Do not rest your hand or finders upon any part of the design you are transferring, elsa the imprint of hand or fingers will be as distinct upon the material as the drawn lines of the design. When Embroidering Stockings/ DO YOU intend to embroider stock ings for the summer? Do It now. The work will not be quite so rapid as some pieces of embroidery and you will not regret an early start. Low shoes, slippers and the pump bring about an annual desire for the beautiful in hosiery. Gay costumes add to the craving for harmony between gown and footgear, and contagion spreads along the line. "Mabel . is embroidering clocks upon her gray silk stockings; why, shouldn't I polka dot my own?" It is pleasant work, although, as I suggested, slow, because the material is elastic. "What other women have done can be accomplished again,'.' say hosts of embroiderers, and proceed to trace ADELAIDE BYRD designs upon gorgeous silken hose, not withstanding the difficulties. That pattern whicli will turn out most satisfactorily Is the one designed so^that there are no rights and lefts. Because of the elasticity of stockinette, designs planned for the different feet are diffi cult to keep in position. They usually result in merely looking crooked. The straight design, applicable to either foot, may more readily be- kept on a direct line with the weave of the stocking, and will turn out more perfectly in the end. ..•'.:. ,The hand-embroidered stocking is an expensive luxury when purchased or ordered. Those done at home are with in the range of possibility for all who can use their fingers and who know how to select a good-wearing bargain in silk stockings. Outlining and satin stitch enter into the work. Short embroidery needles are beet. Designs are traceable by the use of carbon paper, if the modern transfer pattern Is not to hand in one of its many convenient formß. A very small hoop or darner will be absolutely neceesary, and in using the latter the knowing worker will not overstitch her material. An old method .was the ripping of the stocking seam during the work, but I cannot In the least subscribe to this practice. No amount of carefulness can successfully remake the dilapidated stocking which will result from the rip ping process. There are various patterns for Instep embroidery, as well ac blossoms for tha co-called "powdered", pattern. This all over blossom Is not so well liked as the inetep design, including upright stems, occasional conventionalized leaves and clusters of small petaled flowers. A darker shade of the stocking color is exceedingly good taste for the wearer of simple clothes. The French wear black silken hose, ..with vivid azalea pink in the blossoms, shading, from light to a deep and glorious shade, but conspicuous to a degree. Between these two : there are whole lines of color suggestions, such as black upon black, with the smallest touches of lavender. Gray backgrounds are em broidered in white with a deeper gray to enrich the whole. Gold color on the tan stocking cannot be resisted by the \u25a0wearer of brown. -V Tho fashion for carrying out such da signs as the forget-me-not and the wild rose in their own naturalistic: colors is now frowned upon, and scattered?blos soms, circles or dots take first rank, with certain panel designs having per pendicular lines carrying an occasional . blossom or group throughout their length. * < Padding is resorted to aa a firm basis for stocking embroidery. And were. l to. tell yoai the choice, piece of .work,- I ; should suggest bride's stockings of white silk, worked heavily with white. t A Present Forßaby A PRETTY present. to give a' baby, ls an embroidered band to fasten the little one into the carriage. '. Choose a piece of thick white-satin - ribbon, 2% inches wide, and fourteen inches long. * Powder. it with small blossoms wrought with filo silk in .the natural colors, tiny rosebuds?, daisies-, buttercups, forget-me-,". nots. Lin© with satin the color of any of the * flowers. Interlining with canton flannel to give substance to the band. ; Sew a full ' rosette of narrow white ; satin ribbon, % inch -wide, it-each end v of the band, and fasten under them ; two pieces of the same ; ribbon, each '-. about % yard long, to ' 'tie "the i band ' to" the ?. carriage.; A strip of fine white'llnen may be substituted for the wideV, satin v with equally pretty -J effect,' arid .when soiled ;«can r ;be . restored ito its original - beauty by a, careful -laundress. ;::,,. \u25a0 ' Very dainty also are 'bands' embroid ered-Jn. a single color, with the ro settes at . the \u25a0 ends '. to • match. \u25a0' Forget me-nots with - blue 'ones," and : - rosebuds * with pink," are most frequently chosen. Hand-Made Ties RICH neckties may be made on silk. In darned stitch, but they are for the man with a leaning toward the curious in ties. \ Don't thrust them ,upon even the .brother, of plainer taste; they are too beautiful ,< to be wasted. \u25a0 Quite evidently a cast-off tie has 6erved ;as pattern and as model; the construction and workmanship are per fect. The background material Is soft, heavy armure silk with a curious nov elty weavje resembling the surface of huckaback linen toweling. • The darning, which runs across the tie, has been worked through the loose etltch In the weave before the tie has been made up. This gives the appearance of rich silk of brocade effect and not that home made or needlework look which man •naturally scorns. The colors mean much in the final and manly aspect, and should be chosen \u25a0with a view to the selection of the man of taste. VARIETY IN HANGING PINCUSHIONS SIMPLEST of all among banging pln ; cushions is that made of straight . strips of pasteboard flanked : by: a piece exactlj'.like'it, each cornered with flowered -'ribbon, . sewed together: round : their : four "sides, - stuck ; with ' pins and, ; hung up iWith* tiny ribbon, v This • pretty bit " of work' Is ' scented— oh; T so slightly^ ' and wadded the least bit wlth^whlte cot ton just : beneath Its pink-ribbon -surf ace. ; The heart-shaped cushion- has 'been boxed and corded. . The box cover ret. quires : a v box "cushion*; beneath It ; and for, the ;beneflt"of do not know, let us . say. ; that f ; boxing - means Inserting: a strip, , wide : or," narrow, "along i the edges Instead ?of ' sewing back \u25a0 A French Hat Brush POII one of the daintiest hat brushes you can| imagine, select a plain back of irreproachable shape and no ornamentation whatever, "and with good white bristles. Before covering the wooden back it may be very lightly rubbed with a. fine sandpaper, to roughen the surface so that the glue Will hold. - Now for the French Louis cover. This Is made of corded silk of a deep cream, embroidered slightly with rib bon, work in an oDiong medallion de sign. The silk' is so cut as to entirely cover the wooden back except on the bristle side, and when the paste Is ap plied to the silk care should be taken that it does not touch that part be neath the ribbon medallion, nor the top of the brush, but only along the edge of the silk. Do not turn in the edge, but after the i glue is dry, paste over it a narrow golu lace gauoou. To be as French as possible in effect, the creamy tone of the silk should be soft and old, the rococo embroidery of flowers should be soft In tone and the palloon of fi more bronze coloring:. and ; front i Immediately together. .'\u25a0 The process results in a thicker; cushion— -a more shapely.- ; ; The ; cords ; are merely, a decoration. In'colorUhe heart; cushion is crimson white, with crimson cord' and^whlte*'! ribbons. '.'.-. !'\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0. \u25a0 5 Blue forget-me-nots : are painted upon a ••'. heavy > white ; satin surface \u25a0" on \the French; doll cushion. : The. heart, has been The San Francisco Sunday Call Of Unbleached Muslin yERY coarse, open, unbleached mus lin will work out In most stylish effect, as a Russian blouse dress with a long tunls. Cross-stitched in white, or even in a deeper shade of ecru, the garment will prove unusual and picturesque. A combination of the heaviest ecru floss and a fine white embroidery cot ton will give another and a richer ef fect. Here the skilled embroiderer may work in long and short stitches to the best of her ability and to her lasting satisfaction. There I* little doubt as to the wearing quality of >his garment. The life of unbleached muslin is well known. In selecting the quality, that to be avoid ed is the very firm and heavy. <•. ~ Mending With Plaster IN LIEU of drawing the torn edges of a dress together with si]k thread, or even with the frayed .threads of the material, an excellent plan lies in your medicine chest. -That sounds a trifle startling to the needleworker, but listen. A piece of court plaster will form a good work ing basis upon which a comparatively invisible reparation can be made. If the tear be on the plain width the skirt should be laid upon a table, the edges pulled together and pinned down and finally the strip of court plaster applied. A hot iron will press the edges together, and the frayed threads should be cut away as a fin ishing touch. A Brown Sweater ONE of the most fetching examples of the long sweater coat Is of leather-colored yarn made with cuffs and a turned-down collar of rich green and ornamented with brass but tons. These durable colors should appeal to the knitter whose desire it is to make a garment not ?o perishable as the deli cate white sweater. sewed together and filled with whit* lambs- wool, no hard cushion being nec essary. rAfter". the \u25a0 doll's puffed cap of white satin was made. and sewed on, an opening ' at^the ,top of the cushion was fastened round dolly's t'neck. and blue ribbon rosettes \ were added as a finish. :. The Japanese "doll as a pinholder does excellent, duty:' he 'is willing 'and ab!* For the Traveler THE necessities of the traveler are so "generously anticipated nowa days that roughing it is fast be coming a thing of the past. 'The finding of what is wanted in a hurry is a well-known difficulty to those en route; in fact, a lucky traveler is ha who can get within a few miles of cer tain necessary. ltem3 at a given time. Modern case 3 have been designed by the clever for almost everything under the sun. and among the latest are those for various wants peculiar to the Indi vidual. There, for instance. Is the case for the telegraph blanks. It will be a boon to the man with the telegraphing habit well developed. Then we are shown the tablet or caas containing space for the traveler's own checks and a permanent blotter to pre vent the blurring. For the invalid there !3 a useful case specially designed to carry prescriptions, and for the inveterate gadabout from placa to place there are numerous forms of luggage label cases made of crocodile skin, morocco and leather in the most attractive colors, such as blu», mow green and red. Every hardened trawler Invents her own luggage labels and has them made for her. so that aha may Identify her baggage with celerity. A very luxurious case contains all tha smaller ones that have previously been mentioned, and has a drawer with a se cret opening, so that tho contents there •ln are absolutely safe from prying eyea. How to carry her money wfcile> travel- Ing Is a problem that many woman would gladly solves Every nation has Its own coinage, and when tha money Is mixed It is indeed troublesome to piclc out the piece that la wasted. A cas» that takes English, French* Oexman eerf American coins asd notes la a capital idea, and tho more so sinca it Is fnolosed, in very compact and particularly; «af« form. A Green Skate Bag BROADCLOTH Is too dellcat* tor ' the skate bag. but there are> heavy weights in dark green billiard cloth and flannel which are tha Ideal qualities for such rough usage. Then, again, there is the lightweight kerssy cloth. For the rosy-faced young girl to> use almost any gay color harmonizing with, the costume will be pretty: but & man's skate bag should be black, blue* cr green —as dark as possible — and made with or without a heading, but with a casing so broad that cold fingers will not be hurt unduly In the opening and shutting process. * Not ribbons, but double strings ox heavy mohair braid is the sensible material for drawing up> tho bag. Fancy Work Glue A MOST desirable boiled pasts Is made in the following way for all sorts of fartcy work Involving the plulng of linen, crepe, silk, poplin, ere- f tonne or chintz, with pasteboard or lightweight wood. The ingredients are gluten flour, alum and water. To one cup of gluten, or whole wheat. flour add one cup qf cold water, and mix them wefl together. Then add two cr three cups of boiling water, stirred slowly in. Eoil. and stir five minutes, or uretil it clarifies: and then add one teaspconful of powdered alum dissolved In cold water.. This glue will keep fora week or more if put in a jar or bowl without a lid. To cover it is to sour It. as well as easy to construct. Ills sepa rate head, cruel as it may sound, may be bought and fastened to the oblong square of ribbon which has been stuffed .with wool. Ribbon sleeves, sash and bow at the back complete his Japanese outfit, after which he unflinchingly receives whatever pins you give him. When the small, complete doll Is used as a cushion its legs are removed, which is even worse treatment, and the wool filled bajr add^d as a lower section. The ribbon by which the little creature Is hung Is first fastened round his neck by way of stock collar. On the whole, the hanging cushion in a convenient place is an acceptable add!- tfon to most dressing bureaus, and both ' the : heart and the 'flat-shaped cushion' will make- acceptable cif t3 for the friend who is going- away.