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MAIDENHAIR FERN ON A CENTERPIECE
IN RESPONSE to another inquiry, I have provided this week a small sized centerpiece showing a dainty design of maidenhair fern. The fair embroiderer who made the request was a wise woman. I agree with her that this small fern would not develop suc cessfully upon a larger piece of work. Our artist has worked out a most deli- ! caie tracery for fern, stem and scallop. Regular centerpiece linen of white, with white irercerized cotton, will prove the successful materials in the long run. although delicate preen may be used for fern leaves and stems. The stems should be worked in out line stitch with more than usual care, to produce an effect of delicate tracery. The leaflike portiens may be solid or they may be done in skeleton embroid ery; but I should advise the solid. • The shallow scallops are most charac teristic of the whole design, and their slightly pointed outlines should not be lost in the working.' Both the solid leaves and the buttonholed scallops are intended to be somewhat padded. I have had numerous requests for this piece of work, and regret that its turn could not have come sooner. It shall be my endeavor to give all such designs as are requested when space permits, end the request is reasonable enough to imply that a fair number of my workers may be benefited by it. The centerpiece is a highly popular ar ticle. It is distinctly worth while. Fashions in table linen are compara tively stable, and though the piece of work prove a long-drawn-out occupa tion, it is usually a paying Investment in time, ia material and in the finished article. • How to Apply the Design SPHERE are two ways to apply -*- this design to the material upon which you wish, to work it. If your material is sheer — such as handkerchief linen, lawn, batiste and the like — the simplest method is to lay the material over the de sign and, wifh a well-pointed pencil, draw over each line. If your material is heavy, secure a piece of transfer or impression paper. Lay it, face down, upon this; then draw over each line of the paper design with a hard pencil or the point of a steel knitting needle. Upon lifting the pattern and trans fer paper you will find a neat and accurate impression of the design upon your material. There are two points to observe in this simple process, if you would execute it satisfactorily. One*" is, see that your material is level — cut and folded by a thread — and that your design is placed upon it evenly at every point. The second is, when placed accu rately, secure the design to the ma terial with thumbtacks or pins so that they cannot slip during the operation. Transfer paper comes In white, black, blue, red and yellow. I ad vise the use of the lighter colors when possible, as the black and blue are so liable to crock. Do not rest your hand or fingers upon any part of the design you are transferring, else the imprint of hand or fingers will be as* distinct upon the material as the drawn linos of the design. Hook-and-Eye Science THE pitiable novice in the sewing room never knows anything about the hook and eye. notwithstand ing the amount that has been learned about this provoking little piece of wire. Let us begin, for her. with the small est of all. They are No. 0. and their use is confined, firstly, to collars; sec ondly, yokes of net or lace, and, thirdly, to the hooking over of lace flowers or leaves on certain elaborate creations to bring about a perfect smoothness. - The No. 0 hook Is a very tiny affair Indeed, and to prevent Its turning over its two eyelets should be spread apart with the scissors tip before they are ee wed fast. This spreading process applies to every other size as well, and serves also to make more shallow a great many hooks and eyes when the hem spaco is too narrow for long ones. The eye is rarely usea In nice work, and when necessary for firmness, the invisible eye is chosen. This is, at times, embroidered over; and. again, In its stead, there is used a tiny brass ring, embroidered In buttbnhole stitch. It may be more readily worked after It has been sewed In place. The ordinary but teaboled looa is more frequent than the others, and the -old-fashioned eye— a wicket-shaped affair, that usually re vealed Itself when it should have re mained Concealed— is now discarded. Nos. 1 and 2 are good yoke and bodice hooks, and when the vent of a skirt is carefully made, so that it does not etrain and gap, a' very small hook proves more desirable. Two No. 2 hooks, with invisible eyes. are better on skirt bands than' one he roic-sized . hook that presses . into the epinal column." ; When the shirtwaist and skirt ar« Joined In this rather primitive but most successful way, the three hooks on the skirt should be No. 3*6, but the eyes (wicket-shaped) on the . skirtband may be quite large. FOR THE INDUSTRIOUS NEEDLEWOMAN ADELAIDE BYRD Very large hooks - have no ; place ex- - cept . en jeloth capes and coats, where they are placed with a view to conbeal irig all except the goosebill,; and t their eyes are usually a loop of tubular,; braid or : ; silk cord sewn - along : the "extreme - edge "of the, other side of the garment.' " . How,j do >.we ? «ew,: these; fasteners on?^ Well , V, very i.- frequently \u25a0•} ; with \ ;, thread." -Very '-coarse where ' strength jis required and:' finer \ thread , r ori ; sheer ma terials,'! because silk 'allows the hook or eye ito' slip. r <;. ','\u25a0 . '\u25a0}'. <;'_ . - ;."; v . tV:'J*T..' Thread -,must^ positively" be used' for fastening; the hook to a lace because -silk" stitches, \ in this case Y are always evident.' and. wax is the warmest friend ;; of -the f ; hook-and-eye ' specialist.'^ Rubbed on the' thread, wax wlirtencljto v" hbid^the thread iri r place until a flrnyfas- ; ntentngiis' accomplished. Its is "nervous y; % work at best.; arid calls; forth every pos- 7 sible' suggestlon'thaf may . help the busy ; ;'; 'woman.' ,/ V \;. , 7 '-'."•. '"' \u25a0" i :: \u25a0\u25a0\u25a0"."^ ' ..-. -..'. To facilitate, the -finishing, ofTa gown : \i and to /avoid unnecessary jwork, these ..; ' fasteners niay. be ' : placed I further* apart , wherever there; is no fitrain*(arid^t6~save' \u0084 time ' in the fitting;. process > they.' mayy be sewed on as soon as.th«> ; line';Of fas-, \u25a0.-.; ? tenirig v has i been ';: determlned.% ' Remove them from the "card 1 with a sharp' knll*.' r ' Bargains for the. Fancy Workers NO WdMAN can pass a remnant. ":\ counter— or sucli ; Is a masculine theory, and there were little use in trying, to dislodge the idea from the manly mind. , , If she' is accused, let her benefit by what it holds even in the way of fancy work materials. It is foolish to let the ribbon sale pass by when all the beautiful- odd lengths of hair, ribbon in bayadere . stripe are the newest things for the peasant bags. This Is the same well-known shirred bag for fancy work, gathered into a round bottom, but with the flowered silk abandoned for the time'belng and the bayadere stripe substituted. Cords draw up this unique bag, a pair of ' -very long cords pulling in different directions. -^ Fringes are a fancy work novelty • Sensible Laundry Bag A LAUNDRY \u25a0• bag can be worked out in bilious pinks or greens, or in- delicate' and \u25a0 perishable T colors, \u25a0 defeating Its own end. or.it can; be of a restful shade of tan, trjmmed with gold en brown,' and embroidered :^ with the initials of the owner, in plain block let ters.- "... \u25a0\u25a0j'.\ ; . Gray, crash with Chinese blue form 3 a f pleasing, contrast, and gray ..with black -and .^pale 'yellow is ? capable of being worked into large, effective de * signs. Golden ;- brown": linen with Jdark ..' brown] and : yellow \u25a0 accents ' is a sensible , color schema - for/ a , laundry . bag. ~ > "•;\u25a0 The \u25a0 construction' of ] the 'bag *; is ., ex jtremely V simple,'- '.with .1 dust-catching ; frills furbelows eliminated, and a ; roominess » insured. 1; : \u25a0y It should;bf» washable, : and "of a mate rial that ; Is * loosely ? woven;, bo 'I that , air can : ; be \ freeiyTadmitted.'- These points anent color, size - and ; material are wor - thy *of - your " thought, \u25a0 if ,j you \u25a0\u25a0 have "-. the shaping of * this : little , accessory ' in mind. Stenciled Goat Hanger PINEAPPLE 'gauze has \u25a0 been" ' used -over '.white '•; wadding *to cover v; a most attWictivecoiat hanger." There is' riot astltcl" of shirrlhgV'nor. is!there a o puff i, in evidence,' but the smooth gauze has be-m stenciled in a continu ous border p:u tern. \u25a0\u25a0\u25a0--..: .-, \ \u25a0-,. The San Francisco Sunday, CaD which may be got at the counters where dress trimmings are sold at a reduction. The tiny "silk fringe Is an other innovation on the bag 1 of .the moment. It is carried round the puff, sewed on daintily by hand. * Lace is another, bargain to be kept in mind. Its insertion in .the hand some centerpiece as a part of the openwork design 13 much liked. Narrow .ribbons of a grosgrain qual ity make the varlpus ribbon embroid eries so much in evidence. Not alone is rococo ribbon used, but all of the picot edges are sought for, and every known soft-colored ribbon can be -utilized for the embossed flower. Blossoms suggest brocades. In no way Is art needlework more speedily en riched than by the use of cut-out velvet and satin brocades appliqued.on cush ions or hangings. Gilt threads couched fast will cover the sewing-on process, and this take 3U3 to the braid remnants, which, again," are the ideal last touch on many a piece of modern work. Tha tarnished gold or silver braid, which you may pick up for a minimum of Its value, will pass as bronze for all French fancy work, "after Marie Antoinette." Gold tassels will find their natural place on the cords to opera bags. Linens intended for dresses, but sug gesting themselves as your own most unbecoming color, will .prove excellent for ba^s. Sporting Styles THE golf coat mown to sporting women for the last six years or - more has but lately become so -distinctly popular. In England.- the land from which we get our sporting fash lons and fads, that the modish outfit of today is considered Incomplete without one hand-made wrap of wool. These coats are '•Ither'long or short, single or double breasted, and although they are warm and comfortable In machine-knitted qualities, the woman who crochets or knits as a recreation will find no more attractive work and no more satisfying result than in these hand-made woolen coats. The last touch to this excellent style has been found in a Norfolk jacket shape knitted of worsteds to match the dark tweed skirt. The separate pieces of a Norfolk Jacket or a coat should be mads in" whatever stitch desired, and then joined together with crochet stitch, 30 that 'an elastic seam Is obtained. Stamed leathers are used for belt, collar, cuffs and "buttons for these golf coats, and the colors of both leather and yarn vary from olive ', or bottle green to russet and even old ro3e. Crib Blankets BLANKETS for babies' cribs are made in the most perfect of col orings. ,but even more fascinating are the designs in a contrasting color. On a blue border are rabbita in their own soft and fluffy whiteness. Ducks in a row are a delight to children, and the "cock that crows In the morn" is exactly where he- belongs. Scotch plaid in bands borders many a richly colored blanket. th.a Victoria plaid being most in evidence.- Silk ribbon bindings- on these best of blankets are a perfect match for the pre vailing color in border or center. Your Evening Scarf -\u25a0 yrAKE for your evening scarf two 11/ l little rings of garter elastic to •*•»-*- slip the ends through afid to form it into a hobd shape. They will be a more satisfactory arrangement than the knots at the side of the head. Each tiny garter, so measured that It will tightly surround tho SCarf and stay, in place,' is covered with shirred chiffon to match the scarf, and generous headings of the doubled chiffon orna ment each edge. White, silk elastic is used, not because it shows, but for the reason that it will longer retain its elasticity. ' Suede and Steel A GRAY suede bag shaped Ilka a fleur-de-lls is : most attractive in Its unique cut. Its mounting is iJteel.\ plain in design/which does' not interfere with the outlines | of the bag, and the beading differs from that usu ally seen, in that it is done with large instead of small beads. They measure about an eighth of an inch in diameter and are of cut steel. They are used to bring out a pattern on the bag and also to outline its edges. and at the same time to. sew the two sides of the - bag together. Dyeing Traces TO COLOR, ver^ delicate French lace, which-* is usually silk, it ; may be stretched with thumb tacks upon a" board, with clean white blotters .beneath it, and painted with, gasoline and oil paint made very thin. This Is done when laces are so ten der, that they would not stand dipping and wringing. A broad, new varnish brush is used for the painting lof lace, and the process is a most delicate one,- involv ing great care. , Gap Strings THE careful mother always makes .several - pairs^ of strings "for "baby's cap. These she herns, at their jjnflnlshed ends: after their em broidered ends are s worked. , They rare not: sewed to -the cap, but are \u25a0 pinned I . to its. sides: with; small gold ..safety- pins, so that , they are removable-after each wearing. : ' \u25a0> In* no "other -way may the baby be kept immaculate. Porch sewins bass are frequently at their best when evolved from soma scrimlike piece of ribbon. whoaa threads are pulled out at Intervals, for a touch of drawn work. The linen bag is also cross-stitched and stenciled. Japanese crepe intended for dresses will supply the softest and most ex quisite surface for the stenciled cur tains every one 13 making, and its near relative. French crepe of open and deli cate weave, will lend itself to the draw ing process for hemstitched ends. All of the white and unbleached linens on sale as remnants, and often at ab surdly low valuations, can be utlUzea" by the woman who has made the needlework exchange her place of busi ness. Damask linen In short lengths may seem to some hasty shoppers th-» last possible piece of stuff for anything except the tablecloth for which it was originally Intended*, but it has a uniqus quality when enriched by heavy out lining along the design's edges. Large pieces of this worked damask are cut the size of the table and edged with cluny lace as a luncheon cloth. Remnants of heavy sheeting linen are frequently used for the various small pieces of embroidery, and to excellent advantage. No woman who has cut from enor mously wide linens will fail to see the advantage of sheeting as a permanent possession in the sewing room. A New Hair Bana AS USUAL, the dictators are not content with the continuance of » style that is generally adopted for evening wear. They, with ruthless dis regard for our purses, have decreed that a departure from the straight ban deau of metallic lace, tapestry or Jaw eled ribbon is now In order. The flowered wreath ia the latest form for the evening coiffure. Soft silver or gold tissue is the material to be used to make the petals of the glistening forms. \u25a0 S > y »:, Metallic ribbon of the thinness of gauze can be used, and prevents th« nerve-racking frayinsr of the edges o£ the material -with which you are work ing. Fold the strips and. beginning at one end. sew in quick running stitches a series of pointed lines, first up to tha folded edge, then down to the double edge. Draw the thread as you proceed, and the petals will be there in any re quired number. Twist these In a flower like form and fasten together. The tiny yellow stamens can be purchased at the milliner's, and when added to tae center of each flower give an attractive touch. These golden daisies should then be sewn .upon a narrow ribbon or strip of gauze, the band just long enough to en circle the head. A hook and eye will insure a comfortable method of fasten ing. . ' If you need the touch of color for a hair ornament, any shade of ribbon soft and lustrous can be fashioned into a wreath that will be a veritable crown for the youthful queen of your affec tions. Embroidered Scarf WIDE sash ribbon Is tha base; a yard and a half the length. This will tie an ample bow after going Pound the crown of. a little girl's spring hat.' The ends may be embroidered in hng« coin spots after the circle has been marked, or you may even basta over th« ribbon a tissue-paper facing to be torn away when the work is done. • An end of handsome ribbon will ac commodate six to eight embroidered spots as big as a dollar mark. Pad the spaces well and do the solid work evenly. Make a choice of some rich peacock coloring ilka green upon blue or. again., white upon black, accord ing to the child's clothes. Weighting a Skirt LEAX> weights are inclosed within strips of tape to sew to tho un der side of the hem on satin and cashmere evening gowns. They are purchased in this convenient form, which will save much trouble ia the covering of the separate leads. These strips are made of black or white cotton tape, and are Intended to be cov ered with a falde hem of the dreas ma terial before they are sewn to tho un der side of the nem. Quilling for Hats SOME very beautiful qullllnga for children's hat 3 can be made man successfully by hand than by ma chine. They require a quantity of ribbon vel vet or ribbon (more of the latter, be cause It is less heavy), but the simple mvshroom shape will m^an no further expense for trimming. Your inch-wid« ribbon will work up well into a snap py lookin? hat decoration when the two enCs that depend from the back, after the quilling is tacked to the hat. ara each passed through a jet or metal slide. The Down Quilt TWO shades of plain silk for twa sides of a down qultt ia tha harmonious cover demanded by the expert decorator for use in a bed room already rich In blossoms. When the wallpaper is gaudy ~r even ordi narily figured' in design, these plain colors will be a welcome relief to Ui* eye. Fringe on Hats FRINGE— narrow silk fringe— ls used to edge anew straw hat, and very^ softening' Is it to the face. The* bows of - ribbon, which are the «ole trimmlp.sr. are also edged with the- *am* - narrow fringe.