The San Francisco call. [volume], February 20, 1910, Page 14, Image 14

About The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
RUSSIAN BLOUSES
IN LINEN
WHIL.E those who are responsible
for the Russian fashions may
have stumbled accidentally upon
this interesting garment, it Is
believed by many women that we shall
have in it a more convenient style for
general wear than has lately been our
fate.
At their worst, the shirtwaist and
skirt slipped apart and the princess
was a wrapper. We cannot Judge a
fashion by its best expression alone.
We are forced to look it fairly in the
face; and, alas! its back view. too. Is
usually ours. The recent styles have
not escaped the eagle eye of the
critic, and many of them have been
found -wanting in the final balance.
The Russian blouse dress cannot
clip apart, and judging by the per
sistence of belts In all past fashion
periods, the girdled waist should
bring with it the approval of women
at large.
We have, in the sketch from Paris.
models that may be developed in
heavy or light weight material for
coat suits or for costumes, and their
lines may be readily adapted to even
more sheer lingerie dresses.
Very characteristic of the blouse
cf the Russian peasants Is that worn
by the model in the center. It is
drawn from a garment made In Paris.
and the stripe of brown In the sheer
linen made a nice contrast with the
dull blue of the band trimming. The
buttons were covered with a heavier
plain blue linen, anfl the blouse worn
The Coming Summer Dresses
WOMA2CL.T interest already centers
round the summer gown. Xot
the heavy pongee coat suits, nor
the lightweight cloths -which we will be
buying first for spring wear, and not
even the heaviest linen costumes. The
filmiest of lingerie frocks, all made of
mull, lace and embroidery; have claimed
the momentary admiration of woman
kind. They are the usual first showing,
made for southern travel and exhibited
c.5 models for those we will be making
later.
These advance notes are a decided
help and provide for the home dress
maker just those early suggestion* for
which she yearns.
She is ~ either making .the first few
summer dresses or repairing the last
few that are left over, according 1 to her
own particular system; and an idea*—
even one — will be of untold assistance.
Now, we are sure of the girdle; but
also we have faith in the persistence of
the panel, which brings us to that happy
combination of the two which will be
much in evidence later on. Many of the
Kheer white dresses will be simple
enough; others will be- overelaborate;
some will be made of embroidered swlss;
others, of plain mull. But most of them
will show a combination of girdle and
princess panel. The front breadth, and
sometimes .the back, continuing from
collar to hem. show the princess line,
while the umder-arm sections of bodice
and Bkirt are girded tog-ether by a wide
or narrow band. These belted sides offer
opportunity for more fulness, jrhich
will be let in in the form of skirt gathers
—a very lew— at the waist line.
Fashions are essentially the same in
outline. There is ns> great change in
fulness at any given point, which would
naturally disturb the outlines as we
know them at present.
Changes In outline are the most ex
citing, and at the same time the most
depressing. When the whole general ex
terior of woman changes, her last year's
ROSES abound on the costume and
In the hair, and It Is altogether
to.. be expected that .they will
adorn many a summer frock.
They are made of the regular tinted
muslin belonging to the artificial flower
or evolved from folded chiffon and again
shaped into . a very close likeness to
the genuine blossom ' by a clever-ma
FOR THE HOME DRESSMAKER
beneath this coat model was sheer
white linen with "a round neck, but
collarless. The noticeably curious
line at the top of the sleeve is sup
posedly Bulgarian, but belongs as
well to Russia.
The square sailor collar was a part
of another interesting garment
sketched from a heavy white linen
edged with bands of plain pink percale.
A cap-shaped cut on the shoulder and
the circular cuff of a sectional sleeve
make the blouse unique. Its skirt is
plain, which is the rule among gar
ments having an ornamented tunic.
The original of the garment on the
seated figure "was of white sheer
linen edged with a band of heavier linen
embroidered with deep yellow. This,
too, is a coat dress for street wear, the
skirt plain white, worn with a white
tucked blouse of the same material.
In most Russian models the sleeves
are three-quarters in length, and In
many of them the neck may be low
ered. They at once suggest the wear
ing 1 of the garment, not as a^ coat
suit but as a dress, with a sheer linen
or lace g'uimpe, the sleeves showing
out at the wrist.
The very large black .broad-brimmed
hat is becoming to many wearers of the
delicate summer frock.
The straw toque, with a quill stuck
through its folds, is remarkably well
suited to the Russian lines here
shown. Many of the advance hats for
the coming season are of straw faced
with heavy black velvet.
clothes are & dead loss and she finds
herself at sea. It Is too hopeless to
contemplate, and there Is cause for
thanks that the coming season will
usher in no such vital differences.
Even in those frocks with a girdle
crossing the front breadth and in the
belted linen dress the profile has not
altogether departed. There ia no evi
dence of the much-pouched waist front
to disturb the long panel line we are
now accustomed to, and the- added
tunic Is fitted very like the skirt of a
year ago.
Numerous belts are the cry, anfi we
have the evidence of our senses to
prove it. They are shown, even now, in
crushed shape made of . colored suede
and in the straight band of shiny leath
er. Any go-wn that will admit of such
an addition may have it, according to
dictates from Paris.
The Russian note is strong, and the
belt is as much a feature of this east
ern garb as is the tunic
Frocks for spring and cummer wear
are showing every variation of-the belt
from the merest strip across either
front or back to whole belts of narrow
band width and wide curved or crushed .
ones. As for tunics, they, have dropped
down upon every summer gown in one
form or another, whether they take the
shape of the oversklrt tunic, the apron
front, the wide sash drawn round the
upper half of a kilted skirt, or whether
they are the Russian coat tails to the '
belted blouse. <
Again, the tunic may be merely that
In effect; a deep tuck let into the mid
dle of an otherwise plain skirt, or /&
band of ornamental trimming co placed
as to suggest a straight or a shaped
tunic. '\u25a0*-\u25a0?'%
Take them, one and all,' add them,
and divide them to get the average,
their outl!nes*have not changed. Women
will look, in the main, very much as
they did & year ago.
ROSES FOR THE
COIFFURE THE GIRDLE
AND GAUM
nipulation .of : satin~ ribbon. Double ban
deaux of blossoms for the hair are in
keeping with the season's fashion for
the banded coiffure. These little pink
roses . are strung ; on .the finest silk
covered wire Tor; on a ribbon .braced
with -wire, and the ends are -attached
to large hairpins which are put into
the hair in convenient places. For "a
young girl tiny; crimson rambler roses
belong to white; point 'd'esprit. and the
tiuy yellow 'bud is delicacy., itself. '\u25a0\u25a0' : •
On the girdle^ and." the.:hip-line> sash
of some very < delicate 7go whs the . young
• girl .wears *; satin -'or .^artificial : blooms,
arranged^ in 'light "little ; bunches, :.with .
\u25a0 the.- stems. "stio wing. ;*-,' _\u25a0\u25a0- -.v ;
Indeed, ; these, bunches are frequently
repeated; at 'intervals ;on': the; pahler- or
on .cash ends'; which "; haveXbeeri i drawn
; together, by^shirring;^^j<V;;.J ;';-":
When", festoons': are =usedv- on ; bodice
and\ on * sleeve <of iyie more. elaborate
;lace ori'chiffon.r . gown,'';, wo s? have ; -' one
of thej" best 'j types of* youthful s dance \u25a0:
frock.'; : Short sleeves ';. lendtJ themselves
~ particularly 'well, to i the festooning proc
ess, and f many ornate * effects " may : be f
gained <on bodice/aci well "as ; tunic. ' v :
;To.;cb^ectly;Jmakerthe "i little chiffon
or ribbonffose < requires" feeling. .S There .
'are no patterns, < but | these; pretty.*:fab
rics \u0084~ are:" shapedSoyelry.' the", finger i to'
1 form" the f blossom * trie r way) It 'naturally,
t be." .The, maker 'works theni^out
'. ac F9jr dln 8 : i t6;her ! knowledge" of "the .blbs
som she'would'cbpy. -^ ' ' •\u25a0\u25a0"•'\u25a0'•
! : They;. are > a ; pretty /touch -' upon i' the
u"^™* 1 "' * t °ck-?andfpromlse ; to be: pop-.
I Black /Velvet Reigns
. v Siipfieme \
THIS year velvet' has \u25a0 come Into
its :• own again, '\u25a0', and \u25a0 with "the
pueenly. air .which <" we associate
_ with its splendor, it is \u25a0\u25a0 reigning \u25a0 over
\u25a0other materials. . - / iV^.^Ki*
s It is, of I course,' regal in any . shade,
. but> : a certain distinctive, elegant
• dignity belongs; to. the^black, velvet
. costume, .which >is . never- disdained by
•women;, who" strive; for {good
v ißlacki ßlack. V velvet softened by . mous-
V seline, tulle *or ; chiffon is % the - most-
- material: across the- . seas.
t. Wherever '^ one .goes;-. there are hats
,*,:coats.gowns'and suits of black velvet!
The rage. forJthls somber and, let 'it
. be , added, supple material vhas ; reached
• these shores, and, it ,ls movlng;on the
'high ;wave of favor. ;
.' " When it • is seen: 'in there is
-'.: ruuch' material? required. *f or -the: new
\u25a0 est shapes are large. ; Plumes 'are Uhe
elegant *- trimming for -black' -velvet
/ hats, -the. most' accepted disnosition
?ibeing that of ; atclusterJ at'-the side
rand vback.'.or ia -long; single 'sweeping
plume^ononeiside. - - " »r , °
'"But the. gowns U- Never before -have
there -been such? daring; combinations
» the - heavy velvet with :, fllmy j laces
i,and,frauzes.;NoHonger ! do "we asso
ciate the velvet dress with'uncomfort
,'\u25a0: able "warmth; it is. now % as airy and
.\u25a0s lovely>; as I one 'wishes/ ' . ; '; - r
. ... The T trimming - ranges '.through all.
-varieties of .beads, • embroideries and
; • furs.* .There : ; seems to ? be »*no i, limit
to' the height of artistic decoration"
V to7.whieh'; designers * have -flown. "We
- can be j heartily > grateful for the < beauty
..of -the; velvet. -costume. '.,...- \u25a0". -• . •
--;>\u25a0 When .velvet ".coats under ques
|: tlon., the\longri3tyle vis; the » most^be-
'rolling collar -of ;fur; sup
• plementediby cuffs • with; a fur- border •
i Is •; .; always v .; ; becoming.'; X Here* -" again
'\u25a0?. : is Ithe 'favorite,, .because "it" is
'lauchva . friendly^ shade, ,"i looking ; well
any 'torie?of -ransiunderdress. '
•i; Short coata.t too.'" areXof^ black " yel vet;
Vand^'every. .'one-J-willvacknowledge sthe
\u25a0^charmjof»a\black'vel vet JRusian = blouse
-model-trimmed'with rich- fur.- \u25a0•- \u25a0.
• -y-; Decidedly, *t the t day ; of r black is lat
•'hand,^ :":"\u25a0\u25a0:\u25a0:—;• • ;;{ ~,-\u25a0':\u25a0'~ ,-\u25a0':\u25a0' \u25a0;".- .-:;
v rencn Fashion Notes
PARIS. Feb., 10.
EVER -the changes of. fashion 'are
•;shownin the little dress acces
;. series - which mark the wearers
.'as strictly 7 ln step with the
times, and you may be certain that.no
t opportunity is lost 'by the little" maid or
her. grand 40 be off with the
old. and on* with the. newest. -
The apron- effects; in lace, caught in
below, the knees and fastened with two
j huge lace rfoses to the silk underdress,
are; the newest'- for evening wear.
;The wreaths' of jeweled flowers are the
I most, favored . for.; the bandeau ' form of
headdress. ; Indeed, there seems to be no
realm of fashion that has withstood the
invasion of the gems that give just the
sparkling: touch of color to the gown.'
'-'Tiny' watches with the backs 'entirely
..stqciGed' with. diamonds are now wtJrn "on
black velvet Lands around the neck. The
utilitarian phase of the. •time-telling is
- carefully "kept* out of view- and la made
v use of at ;the wish of the owner.
For: little children moire coat 3 in the
soft pastel shades will be .worn in "the"
spring. -For the everyday coat a black
smooth cloth with scarlet ; collar and
. cuffs is • In.'high", favor. Over here j the
French; do ..not show any hesitancy,
about using 'this somber color for lit
tle boys'and glrls.-but there Is always
a* suggestion -of brightness in the
trimmings: -On, : these coats black
leather. belts are .used— a style that
reflects- the .reign of the belt In the
linen -suits: of l the •grown-ups. Irish
\u25a0lace- collars : and ;cun*s;lwill' trim many"
of the coats for dress occasions.
'\u25a0. For; young girls -from ,6 to 'l4 ..pongee
: will - be^made in ; quite 'simple s designs
trimmed -with soutache braid. -The tiny
gulmpes-of 'tulle : or 'net' without collars
will be used.with these. silk models."' *
-\u25a0Piques anda'wonderful. variety. of cot
ton crepes' are 'in evidence in the shops.
Their« serviceable - feature is -beautifully
rcomblned '-with ", decoration ' that .makes
possible -the i use ; of = these -patterns ifor
chlcafternoon:,dresses. . .' '-"\u25a0•-- . \u25a0; '.; .
•»• Drecoll Is showing several new blouses
"after \u25a0* the \u25a0 One • attractive
The; San- Francisco Sunday Call
white satin model has Its yoke outlined
with embroidery of china blue— always
a fresh and pleasing combination.
Another model" is. of Saxe, blue silk
crepon. with'a touch of coarse silk em
broidery of the same 'color. It 3 shallow
yoke and : cuffs are of plain net without
any tucks. Bf^B
Many of the collarless Jingerle blouses
have delicate colorings of mauv*e and
blue added by hand— an Idea for tha
American woman wha has her white
.blouse in mind. •
Tulle and net are much used. to trim
hats,' forming the* crowns of some or
huge bows of others.
Carller has a model that is the favor
ite with the fair women who are going
'south to the sunny shores of the blue
* Mediterranean. It is a huge white tur
ban, made of coarse straw and trimmed
with a. cabochon or jet. This will be
worn with the tailored suit.
Leghorns are tjuite prominent In tha
showing at the great milliners'.
\u25a0 Flowered materials of all kinds, vary
ing, from the sheer chiffons through tn»
nets to organdies, are back for the sea
son. These are- used for dressing
sacqu'is. for transparent bKuises and fcr
afternoon and evening dresses. You
mv« remember that these last named
have' the round-length, slightly full
skirts, and 'promi.so great comfort sm
cleanliness. -A: hunch of artificial Row*
ers is usually worn at the. belt. These
reflect ths- color note of the trimming,
and "when combined with quillings and
> twists of, soft ribbon/ they are most
effective.- -.--. \u25a0•• . . \u25a0 .-.'..
; Rejane. I In ' her, new play, has given a
new thought for the colorists. She has
combined ; two shades of one color in
her gowns.. One particularly attractive
. onj'is.corbeau hlue, with a lighter blue
for trimming. •.
Over here the -"play's the thing" that
suggests to the Parisian public these lit- \u25a0
-tie Idens of <iress: so you may be fairly
, sure that -the ; variations of one color
will be- the keynote of 'many, soring cos
tumes. ELOISE..