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The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, February 27, 1910, Image 12

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85066387/1910-02-27/ed-1/seq-12/

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FOR those who have asked 'me for
baby things I have had designed
the dainty pattern before you on
the page today.
It includes the necessary ornamenta
tion for a dress and cap, and just
there have I drawn the line, because
everything for babies and small chil
dren should suggest that certain excel
lent taste . which demands the least
touch only of a good thing. An excess
of elegance is for older persons, where,
alas! it is too often a proclamation -of
dubious taste.
But back t? baby clothes. Tae
•work is.' mainly, over-and-over solid
stitch. The petals and leaves are solid,
with an eyelet or a collection of eeed
stitches as flower centers. Sterne and
tendrils are carefully worked in out
line stitch of the daintiest kind. .
You will observe the broad shape of
the petals and try not to disregard it
In the working if you would have the
result as rich as possible.
The scallops, though small, may be
slightly padded before they are button
Allowance is made for seams and
hems. Plenty of material has been left
for the quarter-Inch team on the yoke,
the cuff and on the crown of the cap
for the setting in of tiny embroidery
beading or for seamihg.
When the plain seam is resorted to for
joining the separate parts of. baby
clothes, the garment is put . together
vith. seme of Its scams, on. the right
fcide: thesi are "then covered with the
narrowest of hand-folded bias >:' bands.
which are stitched on and brlar-stltched
along their centers.
Hemstitching is to be the finish for th«
front of the cap and for its strings.
Many of those who have I made and
mastered little dresses do not * under
stand cap : construction. For them let
me say that the very short ends of the
cap are felled together, after which the*
longest straight edge of it is gathered
into the round crown.' both having been
divided into quarters for the accurate
distribution of the gathers.
Remember,. always, that no amount of
embroidery can take the place of ; nno
and careful hand sewing on baby
clothes. If. one or the other must be
slighted, omit the embroidery..
By saving: the , moments that would
otherwise be wasted, these dainty '_ bita
of work niayf.be wedged in without
waste of valuable time and at no ex
pense of; more pressing duties.!
Flowered Bedspreads
NOT only a flowered "' aurface, but
with ; blossoms made by hand, i«
the latest ( in' bedspreads. •', >-V
Great cabbage roses ; in" rich. 1 ' delicious
pink dotted here'and there; all over the
plain Eurface-of a white linen: spread! '
Not • closer than : you care Ito place
them, .with the ,: embroidering, in f view,
but just So near' that , there swill; be
plenty: of/pink In, evidence.: Tou can do
the stamping yourself, if you . secure : a
single large rose with a leaf and «t very
little stcnvand trace it»upon< the goods.
Mercerized and -;. twisted ;: embroidery
cotton— a coarse number— will *; he I your
ben medium;' and the work need • not.be
solid.: Skeleton; embroidery is effective?
Adelaide Byrd
where there are large petals, and; the
work should "be done in a bold way. , so
that the result will be decidedly pink
or old rose.
Two shades of cotton \u25a0 may be used,
with green leaves and stems, or with
both of these done in'the rose pink.
The dropping of this large, loose rose
upon curtains and cushions In tb"» same
room Will not be wasted work. \u25a0
Painted Scents Pillows
THE dearest little ; scent pillows are
made for one of the .exchanges
. where^ fancy particles are -dis
posed of for. thrifty workers. They are
creamy white- and: a good quality of
grosgrain silk." On the top of each- is
painted a Wreathlikc design of, blue for
get-me-nots or pink anemones. :^^^^
The » pillow is four* inches square, and
its edge. Is a soft binding of inch-wide
grosgrain ribbon, either, blue or, -pink,
according to "the blossoms.. -It is mitereU
to fit at .the corners. : and , is hemmed
against the: upper and' the under -sides
•with the tiniest hand- stitches ; andi sew
ing silk to match. :\
Braid'and Embroidery
/^OARSE cotton; embroidery appears
I interming-led .with' many, of ; the
V/ braided designs upon heavy linen
frocks. ; Any . little -open space in the
braiding 1 may be \u25a0 thus> filled in with
solid work of >a color matching either
background or braid, and; ;lt,wHl>add
to the richness of the general effect. .
BABY'S first [shoes are; usually, boot
'l- ies Jof soihe T sof t," pretty) stuff. : He
1 rarely , walks right into I shoes when "
''. the i^'flr'st ; little:; knitted v socks ; are ' dls-^
* carded \ for something flrrner.? Mothers**
make thase dainty shoes lto! put on their
\u25a0 own children or to. give ' to • friendly ;; ba- \
"bies of: their; acquaintance.;'
;• Theyj are\ delightful '{ work ".: to keep on ;
hand for^quiet \u25a0 evenings i at- home, oosr s to* '.
get ready in advance ? for; summer: porch',
work. - -V . \u25a0;:/^.-.'- "\u25a0'\u25a0;.\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0•' Vs-.v-" "\u25a0 \u25a0
Darning Gotton Case
: \ CONVENIENT case for- two
f\ spools of ; darning cotton— a. black
\u25a0^J^- and a white— is; made of two sim
ilar, silk-covered pasteboards. .They, are
oval in shape and so planned as to
length that they will fully cover the
two balls of cotton. \u25a0-. X
They are covered with figured silk and
faced with plain silk, the two qualities
being overcast together along their
edges.. ,"''.'^?, il,-i 1 ,-. 1 \u25a0'\u25a0'\u25a0\u25a0 : . '.-:*.
Within these, two' covered ... oblongs
there are placed the two. spools.
Through their openings there are passed
ribbons., which . are ' then "threaded
through holes punched ' in. the/ card
boards.. •\u25a0.-'* : ,''••.' '
These will' hold- the spools of cotton
firmly, in place -after the ends of the
ribbons are \u25a0 sewed securely -to the , fig
ured silk and« finished with rosettes on
theoutsides of, the oblongs.
Making Underwear
WHEN making" up flannel garments
; Itslsa goodplan to wash the
\u25a0: flannel 'before cutting the gar
ment"? \u25a0:?. \u25a0; •-*•-'- '•*\u25a0• "- \u25a0 •\u25a0\u25a0 >.\u25a0
Even the very best makes of .flannel
have .an unpleasant s - way of shrinking,
and it is very annoying to " find that the
garment has become /oo * tight after it
has been washed two or three times. If
r: jt washed, it is wise to make flannel
garments -loose " to allow . for shrinking.
The ; biue-co'rded j silk booties; are-, ex- -
quisite • bits fof , work i and ' a " ; irreproach- \u25a0\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0;
able"; gift ifor \u25a0 somebo'dy's^darling. /\ They
are- made", of ;. heavy [ soft "grosgrain * silk : ,
with fa"' satin v finish/: arid ] each toe ; is em- ;
broldered ; witli -a ; spray of leaves i and ;
roses "In blue /silk 1 ., floss..' .The {work vis !_-.'\u25a0
padded arid ;-V done r £, in ' over T and-oyer. r
stitch;" -They are/. fastened ? with'i; three.;-/
eyelets -and ; a 'J blue ; silk 7 cord ; arid \u25a0( dec-^V;
orated Hhex instep' with ; a blue '
ribbon ''\u25a0, ending -rbsette.^v' '. ;". : V
New Ideas in Leather Work
LEATHER work has taken such a
. firm" hold on the retailer of small
fancy articles and on the woman
with". the gift habit that it is well to go
into 'it'_ at ' greater length. There are
many r points of interest unknown to the
leather .; burner wliose knowledge stops
there..: . :
Newest among the useful. leather arti
cles for the library table are those
which are sllded. Thls.is done upon
smooth or suede leather after the: de
sign is traced -and outlined 'by one
process or another. Burning with a
pyrographle needle-is the usual outlin
ing method, but tooled ,work is a later
Blunt tools, the side of an awl and
the 'dull side of. a 'paring : knife, have
been found sufficient for the.work.
Within the outlined design heavy gold
paint is: applied to,- good effect upon a
conventional pattern, not too ornate; but
of such breadth and shape as to give a
generous cold touch to. the dark leather.
Oil paint? .work up. well on suede and
better;stlll on smooth. or; glace leather
surfaces. , . -
fobjlbout Babies Booties
\u25a0 These, little ; booties are cut with a
: vamp.' ibut th'ose'of \u25a0 /white" flannel
are cut 'with two side -pieces .and. ; a
sole. t J X very^simple ; pattern.) each piece
requiririsTi a basted : on binding - of ; blue
satin ;_ machine stitched^, after
rwhich : the sections .are i sewed 'together
by a^close : overcasting -process with
silk dec
: orated ;. at \u25a0>' the ; instep with .*- bows, f and
\u25a0 all,^ori-theV: booties? are \u25a0 made^ without
' ; a . tongue.'-'. : '.:-' :\u25a0 -\u25a0"•';. : - "'\u25a0'\u25a0
Cut work on skins is another and. most
effective development in this artistic
decoration. Back of the openings satin
Is permissible. where delicacy is demand
ed, brocade may be' used to give added
richness, and velveteen is the most suc
cessful heavy material to supply back
ground color and texture on such' large
pieces as cushions and hangings.
Jewels on -leather are the most bril
liant touch and a last invention of the
successful, worker. Green and red jewels
resembling emeralds and garnets have
been got in large bead sizes and
sewn upon the suede leather to further
decorate some open space filled in with
Persian, silk. The jewels carry out.
necessarily, the same note of color as
that of the inserted silk. .
Lacing, done with silk cord or with
leather thongs, is the method by which
many leather novelties are fastened to
gether. \u25a0•- '
With eyes open and a receplive mind,
there are marvels of beauty to be seen
In tMa; rich material. They are dis
tinctly salable, too.
» , The regular crochet \ stitch . is ' resorted
\to in a. pair of pink ; mercerized - cotton
slippers *to be worn to breakfast •when
baby ' wears i hli i flannel -wrapper. '', .They,
are entirely "washable 'down to the ' rib
bon ties. ! and ' even the soles are of . the
crocheted work.\ Purse silk, too.- may
be used for this model, and' it will make
" it none the less launderable.
. A i sample of. hand .weaving is shown
- in ?'a /pair "\u25a0;_ of primitive-looking shoes
-• made . of -i' white wool with dull blue
The San Francisco Sunday Call
How to Apply
the .Design
rpHERE are two ways to apply
-*- this design to * the material
upon which you wish to work it.
If your material is sheer — such
as handkerchief linen, lawn, batiste
and the like — the simplest method
is to lay the material over the de
sign, and with a well-pointed pencil,
V draw over each line.
' If your material is heavy, secure
a piece of transfer or impression
paper. Lay it, facedown. upon this;
then draw over , each line of the
paper design with a hard pencil or
the point of a steel knitting needle.
.Upon lifting the pattern and trans
fer paper you will find a neat and
accurate impression of the design
upon your "material.
There are two point 3 to. observe
in this simple process, if you would
t execute it satisfactorily. One is,
see that your material* is level — cut
and folded by a thread — and that
your desicn is placed upon it evenly
at every point.
The second is. when placed accu
rately, secure the design to the ma
terial with thumbtacks or pins so
that they cannot slip during the
Transfer paper comes in white,
black, blue, red and yellow. I ad
vise the use of the lighter colors
when possible, as the black and blue
are so liable to crock.
Do not rest your hand or fingers
upon any part of the design you are
transferring, ebe the imprint of
hand or fingers will be as distinct
upon the material as the drawn
lines of the design.
WITH the continuance of the fash
ion for metallic weaves and
fancies there is a liberal show
ing of that delicate fabric known as
cloth-of-gold. In Us several variations
It takes on a silver shimmer or a rich
bronze tone, and in each of these three
general colors or notes it drift 3 into
blues, lavenders, greens and rosy pir.ka,
which make it a material suited to many
The richest theater bags, for th*
purse, opera glass and fan. have been
developed most successfully in this gold
tissue, because its colorless elegance
makes It alike harmonious with the sim
plest black or gray frock or with the
most elaborate and colorful creation.
Metallic tissues are not as perishable
as they look, and their durability is in
creased by the silk lining, which may
be either a cream wtite or an old. gold
or a silver gray if it is to match every
thing: or. again, a faded rose pink or a
dull blue, a lavender or a leafy green if
the tinted tissues are used.
These rich-looking opsra bags need no
exterior decoration because of the very
and a*stired elegance of their fabric.
All sorts of perfect boudoir ornaments
are made of this tissue, from the folder
in which a fair lady may keep her rib
bon-bound love letters to the little work
bag which, holds some delicate bit of
lacework; from the galloon-bound can
dleshade. with its paneled lights of
cloth-of-gold, to the lining of the gilded
or silvered scrap-basket beside he? desk.
Hats are. touched with the same fab
ric: the rosette and the home-mado
flowers have not yet vanished before th»
breeze of spring. . The narrowest strips
of it are used to wrap the end of a
feathered quill, and great scarflike
twists of it are the successful decora
tion on the blonde-colored straw hat.
The party frock for "the quite young
girl demands silver gauze, and for the
matron a bronze or gilded rose; and be
tween the two there is a long line of
youth and beauty for whom a touch of
colorful gold cloth adds the last needed
bit of brightness, to a rich but half
worn dress — the dance frock that has
seen" almost too many good times.
Tnese metallic, stuffs are very manage
able by the amateur. They may b©
folded and cut on the bias. Turned In
once: or twice, they may.be made, into
narrow French folds for beautifying tn®
sleeves of party dresses or for weighting
the tunics.
Indeed, this fabric fills many a lons
felt want' ln the dress, the millinery and
the fancy-work field., and we cannot
now picture a day when it will be done
with. -
spots woven at-intervals. The atitch i*
that of the Nava jo Indian blankets and
the ; booties a,re\u0094 made after the moat
ancient of shoe patterns—a strip of
material wrapped round J tha foot and «
joined- at' che side front, then sewed
to'a sole of the «*ame r material.
Booties, like knitted soekV. get to be
a; habit. . and the lover of dainty fancy
wt>rk who -begins the work grows fas
cinated, "and la rarely without a bootl*
or , two in her workbag. *

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