The San Francisco call. [volume], February 27, 1910, Page 4, Image 4

About The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
THE BLUEJACKETS' COOKING SCHOOL ON GOAT ISLAND
In San hrancisco Bay
One of the Navy Department s
wo Lommissary ochools
Trains Cooks, Bakers, and
Stewards lor the Fighting Ships
Of the Pacific and Asiatic Fleets
Ralph B. Campbell
IN THE good old days of the cut
lass and the boarding pike the
cook on board a man of war was
a very unimportant person. If ho
could s'sir.e pots and slice "salt horse"
he could fill his billet. Usually he was
unfit for the fightin-v personnel of the
ship. Fiction presents the naval cook
of colonial days as a timorous man, in
striking contrast to the fierce fighters
of the deck. When a captain referred
to his lighting crew during^ that pe
riod he said "All hands," but when he
wished to include every man he stated,
"All hands and the cook."
With the transformation of the ship
of line into the liattleship, and the
muzzle loading smooth bore cannon
into the modern breech loading high
power rifles, the cooks an«l bakers of
Uncle Sam have undergone a decided
change. The chef of a battleship of
today must be an artist in his profes
sion. He must be a bit of a chemist,
know something of hygiene and have
a t lib rough understanding of the
nutritive values of foods.'' He is also
trained to take a station during
battle and then is an important ad
junct to the fighting force.
The navy department has estab
lished two commissary schools to
bring the cooks, bakers and stewards
who cater to the palates of the blue
jackets up to a required efficiency. One
of these schools is located at 'the
naval training statrion, Yerba Buena
island. San Francisco. In this school
are trained the future members of the
commissariat of the Pacific and
Asiatic fleets. The students are v given
a rigid six months' course and then,
if found qualified, are -sent to the
various ships.
Stewards, Cooks and Bakers
The commissary school is divided into
three classes, the steward's class, the
cooking class and the baking class.
Stewards receive an initial pay of
$6<5 per month, cooks $27.50 per month,
and bakers JSS.SO per month. In each
line a man may better his condition
until he draws monthly from $50 to
$125. This pay is in addition to food
and sleeping quarters. The different
classes of the echool prepare men for
epecial work in the cuisine of the man
'of war. The steward does the market
ing, the cooks prepare the foods and
so on. Each man has his allotted task
aboard ship and the object of the com
missary school is to have this man un
derstand thoroughly both the practical
and theoretical sides of his work. The
efficiency of the navy's cooks and bak
ers is attested to by San Francisco's
organizations of chefs and bakers. A
man who has served one "cruise,** four
years. In the navy is in demand in civil
life on account of the varied-experi
ence a man necessarily gathers while
serving as a cook aboard a warship.
Not the least in this line is the ne
cessity of the seafaring chef knowing*
the effect of different climates on dif
ferent foodstuffs.
On entering the commissary school at
Terba Buena island , the recruit is
taught first^the value of personal clean
liness. He must study this lesson until
he masters it, for a dirty cook is ab
horred above all things aboard a ship.
Then, what is probably a more pressing
need for cleanliness, the. captain, or
"old man" as he is familiarly known
among sailormen. pays periodical as
well as regular calls to the galley, as '•\u25a0
the ship's kitchen is called. On c the
occasion of these visits it behooves each
man iind pot to be spotless.'
A story is* told on a rear admiral, -
KhMme > ' '• - ' ? Aitr c TrW*li ll'lll"rtl0lll l'lll"rtl0ll
lately in command of one of the divi
sions of the Pacific fleet, that illus
trates the efficiency of the naval cook.
This admiral, then a captain, paid an
unexpected visit to the galley. He was
noted as a fault finder, and the cooking
force waited anxiously for; his Judg
ment. The head cook glanced at his
men and their appurtenances. All were
shining with cleanliness. Veal chops
were on the menu for that rrteaj^and a
large number were being kept warm
over,; steam coppers. The captain spied
them and ordered one set before him
as a sample. He tasted it. The cooks
tiptoed in their anxiety. "Ugh," the
captain said, and then ordered the
cook's crew to furnish the cabin mess,
as the captain's table is called, with
chops from- the general galley.
' When the student cook has learned
how to keep his person and his sur
roundings clean he is started to school.
He is taught practical and theoretical
work on alternate days. Today,, for in
stance, he is placed on a "shift" in the
galley. An experienced cook has charge.
Men who have been studying for one,
.two and three months work near him.
His first work possibly would be peel
ings potatoes — "Bcraplng spuds," in
naval parlance. Next he would clean
pots and kettles and learn neverto use
Boap or "saiid and canvas," the famous
navy cleaner, on frying pans and such
galley "gear." Pans may be ; ' slilned
spotlessly in this way, but should the
smallest particle; of -soap or "sand j re
main the next food cooked in that pan
would 'taste- bad and the head : cook
would be called to "mast" before the
captain and made to explain. ' The man
in charge of a galley "shift" at. the
commissary school makes a written re
port each day of the men working. That
report states \u25a0 what work each I man did
and shows, his proficiency for, the day.
The'next day'the apprentice attends a
lecture given by a' competent steward,
and takes notes. Quizzes j are '\u25a0 held I' at
intervals and the student's ' knowledge
of food values, .proper seasonings and
climatic conditions tested. ] Sometimes
the cooking or baking class ; goes
ashore to hear eorae well known author
ity on foodstuffs lecture.? At different
times men ; attend . : meetings of the
bakers" association -'and; listen to the
lectures at the ' agricultural; department
of the University of California. r /
A regular routine of study has-been
established. A man musH. learn to make
coffee and tea before he officiates over
'\u25a0\u25a0 frying .pans", arid"; boiling -pots. .' He'' ls
ttold that 120 gallons of coffee will serve
1,200 men. one .day.""/ HelisJ given'* the.
proper heat required to brew good feoffee",
and under, the;Wßtchfulness r of;the head'
cbcfc makesithel day's supply.- "Hermust:
\u25a0also know- now to man tne nuge conee
coppers. After, a man can make coffee
and tea he is" instructed in the art of
making soups. - Then vegetables are
studied. The theoretical lectures are
given on the same subjects a manjs
given practical work on, in the galley.
The cooks explain the temperature and
time necessary to cook vegetables. . The
steward lectures -on the values ,of the
, different vegetables as -foods. The ap
.pfentice is t,old that one garlic contains
the nutritive value of 14 onions, etc.
Meats Follow Vegetables '.;•>
... Following vegetables- the apprentices
are put through courses in preparing
meats; In mixing sauces and in making
puddings. Before he leaves the school
he knows how to cook dozens of little
"frills" to set off and garnish the. blue-
Jacket's meal. These dishes are not^re
'stricted to any set form; but each cook
prepares what delights bis crew. The
navy: department issues" a cook book
which shows .the various plain and
fancy -dishes it Is .possible to' make in
different .climates. \u25a0\u25a0'. The.- ordinary; cook
book would be misleading to the: naval
cook, for, foods must be prepared dif
ferently, in Panama than they would be
in Alaska.
• The total amount of food stuffs that
pass through the hands of .the com
missary department - ".of .the * Yerba
Buena training station -: are far In ex
cess of what.' persons .' ; not familiar
might Buppose.f It might be mentioned
that there , is very little additional
waste . in the naval gallery - than^in \the
kitchen of; other .organizations." Give
the' expert cook 0 the number of J; men
he has to feed 'and. he' will "prepare '
Just about the -proper amount offood
to satisfy those?, men... Should any be
left -over :'it' Is; used, in" preparing "side
dishes for the,next meal. ;';"-.' '.'..''\u25a0
' Not only large quantities of plain ,
foods, but- all "sorts of delicate viands
are - purchased by -Uncle Sam for.his:
sailors. For Instance during -October:
91 gallons : of/clams were issued. Dur- :
ing the .; same -; time \u25a0> 725 .pounds! of ,
, chicken;'-' 385 "pounds, of ; fresh; tomatoes,"
2,850 pounds of oranges, 100 'gallons
of v salad ; oil, ; 200 1 pounds' of ,; currents,'
643 pounds of .celery.; and r.75 pounds: of
citron were :'il. used :.%\u25a0 i n , feeding ;' Uncle
Sam's bluejackets \u25a0 that : are, ; quartered
: In;: San Francisco;?i The % issue /of i- beef
that lmonth ;,was 10.431- pounds. 1 ; .'Beef
moreover, : is >but .one "\of; about 20 -dif
ferent' kinds of meat ; used •; in ; the? navy. '
Quantities of f veal, pork Uoin, "
liver, / . pork iy sausage,!,. .hamburger,'.
- chicken, : ham,\. f rankf urters",%bologna,"'
compressed '"* ham,' 'j corned ;\u25a0 : beef, '' beef
•.hearts,: fresh fish,: salt' pork, bacon and;
,'-.,\' m'eats,'.- ', v.fronv 443
pounds of (salt • pork • to 2,863 pounds" of
r .yeal,~;;were.>uged.*V'T"; t;. ; :/. . /•;: /- , r- : .:.;,:;:
\u25a0 |. Beans; are- supposed^ to? be the -stapleV
, vegetable,' in I naval 'diet;; but ?as i a* mat- <~.
- ter of * fact I, the , sailor irareiy^hasl beans \u25a0
'morev than;; three '• times -2 a vWeek.ttThe:
total amount ; of : ; b'eans1 '.used Vihi" October?
;;<-.';;\u25a0 >v;.->c : ;.''i-<- :: .- ; i^feHBaaBBSIiCTBH^i-
was 720 pounds of lima beans and
. 253' gallons of navy beans. .These ap- '•
pear like large quantities, but wheri.<
compared with 39,639 pounds of pota
toes, 6,989 pounds of onions and • 1,020
pounds of carrots they dwindle. Vari
ous other foods in large quantities
were '\u25a0 used during October. The issue
sheet,- which the steward keeps dally
account • for .S what is used, shows
sauerkraut, butter, 2,640 dozens of
eggs,' cheese, more than 300 gallons of
fresh milk, yeast,, apples, rolled; oats,
Saratoga chips. . buckwheat, graham
•flour, catsup, jam, pickles, mustard, |
canned salmon, lard, salt, vinegar,
syrup andiat least 25 other foods. '
: -In the baking line the commissary
department at Yerba Buena has estab
lished its superiority In the navy. I A
fruit cake, - modeled after the , cruiser ,
California, which the commissary | de- 1
partment presented to Paymaster "Wal
ter A. Greer at hls x marriage, : was-;the
acme of the baker's : art.- The- masts,
spars,, funnels, turrets, | guns, lifeboats,
cranes and all ; ; the equipment of " a
j man-of-war; were ; made of sugar/frost
ing. The cake.was viewed by -a dele
gation of master bakers of San'; Fran--,;
Cisco, and : they ...complimented Paul ]
Woods, ship's cooks, first class, U.S.N.,
on the excellence,- of .his designing.
Battleships in Pastry
\u25a0 , Snip's ..Cook Woods is now working
on'ia second cake model of the U. S.S.
California, , which - will eclipse all - other"
efforts of the commissary departments
of the navy.. It will be exhibited at a
Cookery, bakery .and 'confectionery; ex- §
position to be held ;ln > San Francisco [
. during March; 1910, v and;the navy hopes, i
through it, to>land the ' coveted blue '
ribbon. " The'cake.: wilH alsb^show '\u25a0 the S
skill in cooking : and /baking': it .is pos--;
sible to gather while an enlisted man In -
the naval i service, v J Woods ". enlisted as 1
/tin ordinary, seaman : and his > art § has, i
been -learned .two 'enlistments;;'
: In the \u25a0 com mlssary branch \u25a0; of : the i navy. "••
."\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0 This ;cake' when complete wili;;be;;s
feet; high -and.2^; feet;
wide. .There, will be used ln ; bakingjit •
108 pounds'of fruit,, 108; pounds of flour;
and , 150 .'pounds ;,of v sugar.::
. The ; sugar' frosting.: work* will? be* the.
; replica of the U. : - S. : S/ Call f ornla; :J Two :
arches ! will; be placed Von- either side of \u25a0'\u25a0.
the ; ship ) surmounted -by. a - bell.^ ; The;
arches will -be 'decorated with ;\u25a0 poppies ,
arid /roses. ; \. The 'of each?, rose
\ will ; be'ai minute felectric light. : ', On ;top -
of the : bell wil I ; be 'aya v bear •to = represent -\u25a0..
California", and' the- bear t flag and /.the;
\u25a0•United': States ; seal * will \ be \ worked, . mv i
I sugar frosting; on Uhe sides \u25a0of j' the i ; bell. v ;
;;*%The*commissary y j schools! of the navy ;
i have * been"; the i- cause'' r of } increased Icon-?
'•\u25a0 tent {j in o the .Venllsted personnel/;.'^ The;^
graduate - cooks 8 have /started I with Uhe
i experience of \u25a0older.;men l at:their u e'lbows.i
:This\was-:the'|intenttof ;the" nayy,Ade^\;
< partment'';When ithe j schools ; were \u25a0 estab^ 9
r ; Uernonstrated;«»*Thel:"; break :fast a ";;pre^
pared last .week* at. the -naval training?
station, will show \u25a0 the variety of food
the cook must '\u25a0 prepare. 'For Monday
the crew of ;the U. S. S. Pensacola had
hot cakes and, syrup . and corned" beef
hash;; hamburger patties,
onion -gravy and ; German friend pota
toes; "Wednesday, baked pork and
beans, catsup and corn bread; Thurs
day, fried liver and onions and French
friend 1 : potatoes;: Friday, buckwheat
cakes ;and "syrup, 5 force and milk and
oranges; . Saturday, fresh .beef stew and
dumplings;.; Sunday, baked" pork .and
beans, catsup and Boston; brown, bread.
Interesting Stories of King Edward
\u25a0 /\u25a0ING EDWARD :\: \ of .England since
\\ '\u25a0"\u25a0•lß98 i : has^ been 'an. enthusiastic arid
;' inveterate bridge .player. , Here is
a little Vanecdotei that they are telling
-in London: . i
- It. seems -. that v the king had" gone to
ithe'jcountry^td'i visit the duke -of Dev-;
onshi re ; for thei weekend, -ri One t of .the
' guests S was ;> Lord , G. ; ;, (a:- rather vulgar \u25a0
I boander), .whom the tking ,had, ; a short
while ):before; ; ,ralsed; to; the^ peerage-—.
\u25a0 presumably; for, value received. ; Anothe r.
."creation 1 ' ; of the . sarne^ sort was also of
\ the house par ty/-[ In ; the evenl ng a'l rub
t ber;.wasfmade .up of, the king." the. late
duchess,^ Mrs.^' X:, arid ? Lord 'G. \ One of
'the'onlookefs .was Mr.' N., a well known
,wit and diner jVut.'.whOjhad. that morn
irigi been i outrageously; snubbed f by;- the :
Lord: G. ;>Mr.', N.lcould jflnd no
Swords? in- which . tqlcharacterlze * "these"
'\u25a0bounders,'', I , wh'oHhad ;been;> he ; thought,"
;so| shanief ully \u25a0« ennobled. i : . On- 1 the J last :
I'harid^of sthe|rubberjMfß.^K.i;dealt* t 'and'
|leftUt|to»thetkinff,\who,vafterihesita-j
- The San Francisco Sunday Cal 1 /
Coffee, wheat bread and butter are al
ways served at breakfast in addition
tothe foods on the menu. The other
meals of the days show a correspond
ing. variety of. foods, coffee giving way
to tea and cocoa as the market permits.
Sometimes tasks out of the -ordinary
are required of the apprentice cooks,
although usually the apprentice period
isspent.in becoming familiar with the
more simplef parts of eooklng and bak
ing. One instance of this kind oc
curred last Christmas, when the stew
ard decided to have turkey a la perl
was promptly doubled by Lord G., the
leader. -When the ;king"3 auramy went
down there ' was a gasp . from Mrs. X.,
his partner. The hand consisted of the
ace,..king, knave of clubs, four hearts
to>,the knave,- four 'diamonds to the
knave and the knave and tern of spades.
'.. The" king looked atMrs.K. in amused
surprise aj her apparent disapproval of
the \u25a0» make. ;•-\u2666
f "Sir," she answered. . "I. know." per
;fectly. well that.: the king can do no
there is a limit even to the
'divine* rights of monarchs; and, be
sides, j sir, . my; heart ; is, -as - you know,
-affected." '
.Lord G. had soon cleaned up four by.
cards. on : the hand and' started to add
up ' the : rubber.V; A. few moments later
he; turned ' to Mr. N., : with .whom he had
made a~ side^ bet on the match, and
\u25a0 asked '£. him in a : ; ; whisper wha£ he
•thought'of ; the klng'Sideclaration.' \u25a0-
sound," murnfured ; N.;; "but
•easily explained.: -You 'see, Jhis' majesty
* is' so > used :'• to ; raising^knaves~-.to ; power :
fancies' that t *they
rorJ on the bill of fare. Thi3 necessi
tated the boning of 1,400 pounds of
turkey, because it was impossible to
buy that amount already boned. A
record of one turkey boned in ten mia
utse was made by one of the appren
tice cooks.
The commissary school Is only one
of the various schools Uncle Sam "has
established to enable the enlisted men
of the navy to become more proficient
in their duties, but it Is blessed oftener
and more fervently by the mass of mco
than any other.
.can be made the eauaUi of kincs «s£
queens."
'Bridge stories about King Edward
seem to have no end. Here is another
one: »
Mrs. T.. a very cbarmlng American
widow, went to England "last, year for
her first visit. She was asked to a
country house, where the * king was
also a guest. His Majesty,, who is a
great admirer of , feminine - pulchri
tude, asked to play at the table of the
young American "widow. \u25a0 They cut
against each other and the matter of
stakes were soon under, review.
"What, sir, would; you like to lose,
as I warn you that I am an. extremely ,
lucky player?*' f^PQM
.The king's, reply was to the point.
"Not .a penny, if I can help It — and
how much do you want to win?"
"A sovereign, sir," looking straight
at the king.
; .''l can assure you, ; Mrs. ,T.,** ... said the
; king. ."that, you . won a sovereign
the moment that I first beheld you.lT