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The San Francisco Sunday Call
THE FASHION INVADES GOLDEN GATE PARK AND "IT HAS COME TO STAY!" SAY ITS FAIR DEVOTEE^ Katherine Atkinson PREPARE to be shocked, especially you of the traditional, the medieval spirit, who decline even to think of a woman unless she be surrounded by a lot of fluffs and frills, because — yes, really, because my lady has donned breeches! There! I'm afraid I have blurted it out, after all. No, this Is not a story that concerns Miss Eleanor Soars of Boston in any way. Goodness knows San Francisco doesn't need to go to Boston for examples. She has a few shining lights of her own. It is to the fair maids and matrons of our own \u25a0 mart set, including, o^ course, Burlin grame and San Mateo, and," for that mat ter, women in general that I refer. It isn't in the metaphorical sense of usurping: masculine authority that is generally spoken of as wearing the — er — trousers that I speak, either. The ladies to whom I refer would scorn, yes, scorn, to usurp any man's author ity or — or — well, or anything belonging to him. They have, nevertheless, put on breeches! Their own smart, natty little riding breeches. Sol th« secret's out! And Just between you and me, lfs been out for some time. In all seriousness cross saddle riding among women has arrive'J. It Is here to stay. too. And with It has come gradually, of course, as was natural, . the acceptance and general adoption of the much discussed "breeches" rid ing costume. The divided eklrt— that affliction to the eye, with- its weight of useless material cumbering the body— haa slowly but surely given place to the more becoming and much more sen sible breeches. And really, when the matter is sifted down, there Is. nothing to It. Because with boots that reach to the knee and long coat that falls on either side of the wearer down to the boots, partly covering them, the breeches are cn T tirely hidden from view, unless per chance the fair rider during her canter through the park should lneet one of those searching sea breezes that oc casionally blow. In which case It does not take any great stretch of the Im agination to picture what would hap pen to those 'demurely precise coat tails of hers, does It? Naughty, naughty little breeze! The breeches habit is made up in broadcloth, tweed or cheviot, khaki cloth and linen. The linen suits are much worn in Burlingame and : San Mateo, where «they are 'preferred to the heavier suits. Some of the ladles fre quently seen In the new costume are Miss Jennie Crocker, Miss Genevieve Harvey, Miss Helen Chesebrough, Mrs. Eugene Murphy, Mrs. Andrew Welch, Mrs. J. -V. do Laveapa. Miss Marian Lally, Miss , Phyllis \de Young, Miss Enid Gregg, Miss Elyse Shultz, Mrs/ J. J. Moor*, Mrs, Edgar' Pelxotto and the Misses Cunningham. To Miss Helen Chesebrough, the well known and enthusiastic) horsewoman, must be given tho credit for having had the courage to pioneer the movement on this coast She it was who, intro duced riding breeches here. And when she. is in the seclusion • of her. father's country place. Miss Chesebrough dis cards her coat and rides In the un trammeled ease of. shirtwaist and breeches. Miss Marian Lally, whose picture graces this .page, is a golden haired beauty with the courage of.; her 'con-; victions. When I, armed with my camera, overtook Miss Lally the other day in the park and -asked her if she wouldn't please stop a moment and let me snapshot her, she replied. in a de lightfully frank, unaffected way: "Why, I don't believe I'd mind at all. I happen to have on a new. habit'; to day," and she laughed merrily. The costume she- wore was of light brown, flecked with gray, a A rough Milady in Breeches The New Riding Costume tweed, and her hat was of yellow straw. ' I was dying to askher to take it off, I did so want a picture that showed her hair. It's siich r a lovely, warm' shade of 'yellow. She. 'was doing me such .a favor to pose at all, though, that I hadn't the heart to ask it of her. "How long hay© you been a convert to. the new costume, Miss. Lally?" "New ! Why, it isn't^ so very new;' is: ,jt? ! For; two years, now, we've been wearing them." • v 1 "Only, comparatively < new." . "Oh, yes, compared with the ages and ages that .women '-< have ; ridden perched .upon a;eidesaddle/; It's such a, relief,' too. -So much safer.: Why, I; wouldn't go back; to ' the old. way for 'anything. : • And "then besides ; It's ' the >; fashion and one, must be in the fashion, you know," . and; ; with a nierry = laugh she can : tered" on. - _"\u25a0. : ' '\u25a0'-. yy] ;• '\u25a0'•.' ->\u25a0' \u25a0 -/" . •\u25a0\u25a0 I was wishing she had stayed a little: \u25a0 longer.- I wanted -her to 'talk more to -me about it. ; Then I happened to think '< of that thorough// all round" sports woman, Mrs. Goodman Loewenthal/ who has/Just returned from New York. She would be. sure , : to ; havej the very/ latest thing in riding; togs 'and; the New. York' ! ). viewpoint Jon\the"t breeches'; habit;-* -and ' *". that. was/what" 1' wanted.' .- : - :,-.\u25a0 . .- She was at home and received me cordially. - "Have ' the . horsewomen of New York adopted the fereeebes habit, Mr*. Loew •nthair' > "I should «*y • tb«y have. When X went back I took a divided skirt with m; but • after riding Just once in Cen- 1 tral park X went right straight to the tailor's and ordered a breeches habit." "May > I see yours ?" "Yes, -indeed, you may." And she \u25a07 brought out her trousers and coat. ;; : Her ' habit "is of ( black broadcloth, made, so" far as I could tell, like the '"ones I had seen here. '"The breeches look Just like an army " officer's,"' said, l. " : ."They are; like, it. They were copied from them. "You see, they button snug- 5 . ly from the knee. down, inside the boot. From the knee .'. to the waist they i are loose, but /shapely. , '.-.:/. "Weren't you .glad, Mrs. Loewenthal, to discard the divided skirt for these?" ."Yes, the divided 1 skirt is, clumsy, ' neither one thing. nor the other. There's ; :\u25a0 somei style to, these;^they're nifty /look-/ • 3. in g.'V *\u25a0,;-'' -;^ :: - ; : *\u25a0/ /\u25a0, < .''\u25a0'. '\u25a0\u25a0':. '/.Her coat looked: Just like an' ordinary, tight fitting long tailored: coat, 4 and I :-sald;so/:"'\\ : \/-y ;"_ \u0084\u25a0/\u25a0\u25a0.-\u25a0.\u25a0-:... "./-,\u25a0\u25a0 '/'.,\u25a0 \u25ba ' ."Welli •; not;- quite,'" said Mrs. Loew-,^ anthal. 4 -; "Youjsee -the skirt "'part is fuller than an ordinary coat. It ; fallal; in ripples from the hips. down, j When I have It on it hangs in folds just as a circular , skirt would. When I'm not in the saddle I button It together \u25a0 in the back— see— rlike this." and she sliowed me the button and buttonhole about six inches below the waist ' line buttoning: the backs together. "My hat? Oh, Just a straight rimmed derby. This and the derby in straw are worn mostly in New York. "I'll show you my boots," and she went to the closet and brought them out. Stilish looking tall. boots of black pigskin, fitting snugly the feet and ankle with loose tops reaching to the knee. Her spurs were small silver af fairs that screwed into the back of her boot heel. \u25a0 * "I wear/a tailored waist and stock with my- habit, though the really cor rect; neckwear is high collar and white, cravat. \u25a0 >/. .;:.. * . -"The breeches were worn by the women -who rode at the .horse; show last "winter. ' That .means a sort of official, recognition, you' know, and the seal of fashion besides, and that's what really counts.' -.'. - ; \u25a0 "6h^ : yes ; they, have been much more generally adopted in New York -than out; here. We : in San Francisco, are slower .to : accept anything, don't you think so?" and she. smiled. I caught myself .watching; for 1 her r smile -after tHat— fshe had such pretty, teeth. "San Francisco forms its own Judgment. For instance,' in 'the. matter of dress: If one wears even a Dutch neck Into a cafs here people vill turn and look, while In New York you may' wear a decollete gown without attracting the slightest attention." 'It Is difficult to imagine Mrs. Loew enthal going anywhere In any kind of a dress without attracting attention, ad miring, attention. She is a perfect Juno of a woman, of the Nance O'Neil type. . tall, fair and exquisitely pro portioned, with the poise that tells of trained muscles, of the out of door life, for she is a crack rifle shot as well as an accomplished horsewoman. I had called in the morning and, she wore a simple cotton frock with a round Dutch neck, but every line, every curve was graceful. Just to show how general the fashion has .become. .. take, for Instance, the stores where they sell the ready made habits. At one they have two rooms given up to riding togs for women. For those who wish to be fitted cross saddle there is a beautiful dummy horse fixed a up with the latest cross saddle, wh|le for the women who ride side saddle they have simply a sort of clothes rack with a side saddle perched /upon. It. There is. little use for the latter. - - , "Did you know that in some places in. the east the humane society' has prohibited the riding -.schools and stables renting side saddles any more? Take a woman as large as I am and .think of putting her on one side of a horse with the weight all on two of his legs. It's cruelty.* "Where did cross saddle ridinar for women originate. Mrs. Loewenthal?" "We get it from England. I think the American women are premier in the matter of dress, but when it come* to sport the English women are fore most, don't you think so?" Yes, I thought so. When she smiled at me like that I would have thought almost anything. "For cross country riding In Eng land the cross saddle has been used quite a number of years, but only in the last three or four has It come Into general popularity. And out here Vat la*st six months has made lota of dif ference. It has been much more gen erally adopted than before I went away. I was in New York all last win ter, you know. "Last night at a riding academy there -were 20 women on .the floor. learning to ride, and how many do you think rode side saddle?" "How many?" I asked. "Just one." [ It had seemed to me, as I. sat there listening to her, that she had ab sorbed something of the freedom and breezlness of the out of doors; that her mind as well as her body was well poised. She was so wholesome, so honestly independent that it had been a pleasure to talk to her. If I had any remaining spark of sentiment for the old. the petticoat habit when I met her. it has gone. She "won me com pletely. I. : too, am a convert Let's all be. ."„ Let's really b* as sensible, lib eral minded and cosmopolitan as we have always thought we wera.