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The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, June 05, 1910, Image 14

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85066387/1910-06-05/ed-1/seq-14/

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THE GRADUATE WEARS WHITE AND THE PASTEL SHADES
EVEN In. this day of the well-fllled
wardroi>e, every sweet girl gradu
ate counts on that particularly
pretty irock slie Is to have before
the closing- day of school.
This, among: all of the dresses of her
•ummer outfit, is the one with which
the should find time to assist. The grad
uation frock will be more characteristic
if it can bo made at home, and among
the whole stage full of somewhat simi
lar models, individuality must undoubt
edly count.
It will be found also that simplicity
elands for something; in fact, the com
paratively plain dress with long lines
•will carry better and create a more"
pleasing impression at a distance than
the very- fancy frock.
All of these simply designed models
can be made at home by the ordinarily
clever dressmaker, and with almost any
Rood jxaUern of similar outline as a.
guide.
Some of the most popular materials
for young girls and women ranging
from IS to 20 years are sheer linen, eoft
mull, dotted swiss. batiste, tulle, silk
jnuslln. chiffon and silk voile. Plain and
embroidered surfaces appear, but those
of plain weave make more striking mod
els when combined with the three or six
Incn width of insertion. Hand embroid
ers' is never out of place on ihe delicate
\u25a0white frock, and heavy laces share pop
ularity with Valenciennes.
Good machine work is not objection
able, but handwork is the approved
method of the French. A nice com
bination of the two is not to be des
pised, and the observant ono will see
the spot that needs the handwork. Pas
tel colors are appropriate for all girdles,
the delicately flowered lining is
seen beneath sheer white. In fact,
tome of the more delicate shades have
been used successfully in the garment
itself, for there is not a hard and fast
rule that excludes all color from the
.. graduation stage.
. The central ligure gives the best notes
of the season -for the graduate's gown.
Hade of delicate silk voile over a dull
' white silk lining, it preserves the quaint
lines of the simplest peasant frock in
bodice and skirt. Their gathers are
held- in by a girdle, and a faintly rose
colcred sash is so arranged on the lin
ing as to show through the transparent
voile. Carded chirrings with Irish in
sertion are ihe beautiful decorations
on this exquisite model. The customary
white, gloves with loose wrists are used,
and the elbow length will be found
most convenient for this year's sleeves.
The dress with a tasseled girdle cf pale
green- silk is a well constructed model
of white mull, its bodice is mounted
on a complete lace yoke with sleeves,
end the ssme lace in a band six inches
deep holds in the fulness of the skirt
below the knee line. The simplest way
to make this- bodice without a pattern
is to shirr two straight pieces of mull
upon cords and fasten them across the
frcnt and back, allowing the upper
eleeves, which are shaped upon tbo
wearer, to fall In full folds under the
arm.
With lace crossed upon the back and
front of the bodice, we have a pretty
model made of sheer llaen. The same
insertion appears on tlie skirt in lines
suggested by the Russian tunic. The
6eamless shoulder here demands a cer
tain firmness. of material in which to
develop.it, and the weight of the linen
La belaed cut by the rows of tiny tucks
FOR THE HOME DRESSMAKER
w"hlch may be seen in the drawing.
Another kimono bodice is made of
mull over whit© China silk. Its sole
ornamentation is pointed, heavy lace,
which is used to finish the sleeves and
neck and to break the long line of the
skirt.
Points appear, also, on a sheer batiste
frock, but they are a part of some
wide eyelet embroidery on the same ma
terial, which forms the lower section of
the skirt, bodice and sleeve, and a
curved - band of which gives shape to
the neck.
Made with deep tucks in two groups
on the skirt and one group on oodice
and sleeve, the very plain model for
those who prefer it. or who are too busy
to accomplish anything more difficult.
Is Just as appropriate as the others. An
old lace collar of value is its sole adorn
ment.
IT HAS arrived, as an evidence of the
opposite swing: of the pendulum
of fashion, and in its ne** form it
promises a decoration for the bodice,
an excellent fit (and if you recallthe
bolero jackets of ten years ago you
will agree that this is a welcome mes
sage), and with these qualifications
there comes the "hopeful thought' that
the bolero is quite, easy of-construc
tion.
Points again— and this time they form
the entire yoke of a dotted muslin dress,,
with corresponding points along : the
upper line of a deep, plain hemi Gathers.
In the skirt ara held 1 in by. the - hem.
The Bolero is Here
On a supple silk . gown - th c bolero*
effect is ' obtained by*. using broad,:
bands of bWC insertion ' ; '-toXoutlinev,the
top of - the yoke,' dropping -it s down tin
two' straight lines at the back, and then
around ; to the. front; and up.*? This. jacket
is * not V detachable.^ but 'is V, Incorporated
with. the rest of the bodice, c - v
-. For a lingerie dress a* bolero of . hand
embroidered ~ batiste KwithSlrishrf lace
medallions >Is offered \u25a0' either i to ; carry
and , the sleeves are somewhat longer
than on most sheer-frocks. ,
. :A -correct outline and' a .simple garb
are the notes that 'all; of these pretty
models. sound to the would-be maker. '
•out • the ; idea "•.;\u25a0 of \u25a0/decoration , on* the
frock.'*or\tb ; give" a \u25a0 contrasting
when' wbrnjovera plain.ihand-tucke'd
bodice. The washable -quality "of : this
form is good to \u25a0 contemplate' for- sum- j
merdays.r. :-.-.'.> --.•\u25a0•-, , ;. :, • T : ;
;On the :. cloth suit to -.be used o for
cooler.* days? or 'for i summer- traveling
the? bolero? appears i'witlv; new -force."
Trimmed .vwlth -?J cloth-covered*'
and striped 1 cloth on«sleeves : and 'col-:
LATEST FRENCH FASHION NOTES
... PARIS, May 26. :
FOR '\u25a0: children there are being dis
| played' hats of cretonne or
..foulard. The prevalent shape is
'.'cloche," the high crown and closely
fitting lines insuring a permanency of
shape that appeals to most mothers.
They are* trimmed sometimes with a
cabochon- of soutache or a shirred
band of ribbon ending in a bow, the
ends of which are .shirred "and wired.
,Tussore- for little girls' frocks is
lav' it" gives unusual relief from the
checked; suits; of 'other; ;days.; '\u25a0 The
lower* edge, l by.. the way,' comes far.
enough/down to; conceal 'the belt 'line.,
.f Chiffon ?is7usedi for,; a ;bolero ;that
gives \a.t note : of • colors on-a' black j and
•white :silk{gown. r >Flame-colored : chif- :
f on. i has .'ibeeni fashioned;. with -jacket
and jsleevesMn rones piece, land' affirm-;
ness* of /outline «has'«been .'insured 'byi a
broad? Dicing Vof ' empire green satin.
very practical. Bands of foulard In
the ever-present cashmere .design
make attractive dresses, especially if
guimpes of sheer linen or English
eyelet embroidery be worn with them.
White pongee for petticoats should
appeal to all women. .The durability
is unquestionable, -\u25a0 and the cool, light
weight quality commends itself for
lingerie for both children and women.
In the newest pongee and linen suits
the revers and cuffs are of contrast
\u25a0--\u25a0•\u25a0-.\u25a0"'-'. : %-,'\u25a0.''-''\u25a0 ;. ;
.This .widens iritoirevers at the front,
'while pieces -.edge the elbow
'sleeves, ; simulating "pointed 'cuffs.
.:_ Wear, the bolero "with, a sensible
Ireallzatlon^thatit has a- tendency to
lengthens the £line, from, waist to. the
-- grounds that 'it. must nt perfectly and
~that ; it? is, always when it
-jformsta;part*of-;a costume. " .
It - promises v much « for the summer
and the following falL
The oari: rrancisco, Sunday Call
ing color, while the- vest is occasion
ally of yet. another shade and na«
teriaJL
Moussellne dresses are embroidered
with soutache braid on yoke, hem o?
in plastrons on girdle or sleeves.
Striped materials of all kinds are
being used for street and house.
Sashes are used, but this season ara
worn with a difference. They are run
•in under box pleats or fulness, and
as slot ribbons serve the double pur
pose of utility and beauty, they arai
used on most of the lingerie gowns.
Bows of coarse straw give a chlcr
trimming for turbans to be worn with,
tailored suits. The large fiat hats aro
worn in the afternoon, and if the
owners be youthful and good-lookins.
they may tie them under their chins
with chiffon, velvet or sillc.
This summer gloves will be given a
rest. Just why or how the Parlsienna"
has made an unheard-of departure
from the formal lines of fashion is
yet to be explained, but such, is tho
condition of affairs.
Blue In so many varieties of shades
that the names are endless in number
holds the important place in the fash
ionable spectrum. For hats. \u25a0 gowns
and accessories it is used in Its de
lightfully varied forms, and offers a
change by means of the wide rango
of shades.
Sleeves on evening dresses are ex
tremely short, and there is a reversion
to brilliant colors for evening gowns,
probably as a reaction after the win
ter fashion for somber colorings.
IuXiOISC >
A Buttercup Frock
ONE of th© attractive little* flower
dresses seen at a private open
lnjr the other day caught tha
breath of spring in its 1 golden hue and
in its garlands of buttercups.
The round-length frock was of printed
nlnon | over the inevitable foundation oC
yellow charmeuse. The printed garlands
of flowers were more intensely yellows
and more closely clustered at the hem.
Now.^the masterly touch was in th»
next veiling of the printed fabric with
plain yellow ehlCon. which gave a de
lightfully vague appearance to tha
whole effect.
A soft girdle of satin was draped
around the form. . holding in the fichu
lines of the- bodice. From the girdle to
the shoulder waa a . wide band of silk.
flowers, narrowing toward the shoulder
line. . The- yellow -flowers edged the flat.
short sleeves, and the sub-cuffs of plain
chiffon carried out the shirred yoke that
gave the highly favored chemisette that
fills in the crossed Unas of the bodice
A cabochon of flowers and pleated
chiffon finished the girdle at the back.
Any little Idea for dance frocks can b«
carried out in this way. suiting the color
of the flowers to the taste of th«

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