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EYELET DESIGN FOR CENTERPIECE IBK'T It lovely? The fascination of. eyelet work is perennial, and. in ad tion to the effectiveness of this de sign there are a durability and an originality of treatment that commend themselves to both eye and hamd. First of all, let us decide Just how much solid work is necessary to "hold together" the design. You see, the soal lopad edge Is quite heavy. This will be done as usual, first padding with darn* Ing cotton and working a buttonhole stitch, with probably an extra row of tneso a-.oiu? tne edge for good luck. The terminatin* lines will be outline only. The gn&oeful stems that wind in to ward the center will be done in the same way. THREE MATERIALS COMBINED A CLEVER girl who had three rem nants, none of them large enough to mske a gown, solved the prob lem by combining them. They were white batiste, plain lavender linen and checked lavender and white linen in the tune shade. -*The batiste formed the short belled sleeves and the puffed baby blouse. The lavender, of which she had the most, was made into a plain gored «klrt- Cuffs, girdle and pointed " straps down the skirt from the belt and at the tides cf the blouse were of checked FOR THE INDUSTRIOUS NEEDLE WOMAN Now for our choice. How would you like the round disks In each ecaJlop and in the eight straight lines to be solid? This would give a relief to the eye, and just as much effect in the end. But •with a providence that is ootmmend'airie, the designer has- so placed these circles that eyelet work in them Ib permissible, If you prefer the entire design worked In this favorite of the needlewoman. The oval eyelets you wil 1 cut with embroidery scissors down the center, and after staying them with a few loose overstitches, begin in the firm stitches for regular eyelet work. If the oval is too broad, you can cut away a little of the goods. : , You will find that this large center material piped with lavender. The round, low neck wag finished by a plain strip of «Uover embroidery i about six inches long. The frock was as dainty and pretty 'as it could be, and • yet It arose from a judicious choice of remnants. The pos sible color , combinations are endless. How pretty * old rose and green would be, with a checked . or striped material in one or t the other shade! And then there are tan and blue, and gray/ and pink. It Is an answer to tha annoying shortness of remnants. ADELAIDE BYRD piece grows In a pleasantly ewift , way under your needle. . It is labeled \ "eye let," but there is given a', design j that ' will play successfully a double role. " If you wish, the entire design can be solid, work. . r> vj i'frtZtfZ -J. : '"' Why not begin on this pretty form for that friend who will be an early fall bride? But let nothing prevent you from proving what an attractive design this proves In a linen form. The'predlctlon that I -make Is that you will not stop at one of 'these centerpieces. And you oould not form a better habit. Laxie Flower Pins fX^HB latest in dainty and charming I \ pins for wear on collars and cuffs *:i.*~r-. is a lace I flower crocheted : around an ordinary . small - safety pin. v ; The flower is usually in violet form,- though In whltej and stands out stiffly, from the . pin: f \u25a0 \u25a0 When crocheted .to a violet pin, It may be used to fasten jabots of flowers, and it is' Just > as pretty,, though not quite so : new, •; as ' applied to .' the hat pin." A. set of sthese 'lovely white lace pins—three for collar.* two for cuffs— two hatpins and two stickpins .would be the . prettiest present a- bride or a trav eler to Burope ever received. . ; - . . . The •t»ar of the safety pin is crocheted over and over; to \u25a0;; hide the ; steel.- -In black, with black pins, they solve the question. of what to use in mourning. TI7T 1 JL TT - Made at Home THE great trouble about the pretty I ruchings with which every woman I likes to finish the tops of dress collars is that after one wearing they are hardly ._ fit , to put .-; on again and must .be . thrown away. This makes them really a small extravaganoe, glv- \ ing the choice of incompleteness or un tidiness \u25a0 to the woman who would be "well dressed and must be economical.. - The solution is the making of ruchings by , one's ; own . hand. This- is much easier than. it< sounds,' and has other . advantages, in . that the : ruching will al , ways j match H or 'harmonize with . the gown in color and material ' and \- that \u25a0 i many « new and unusual effects can be obtained; . ! Ruching;may be^ corded, pleated' or folded. Cording is the .'easiest method, and should be the one first tried. For. this a strip of cambric twice the width desired for the < foundation ;is stitched double, ;on the'machlne or by, hand, and the stiff silk or metal * thread cor 4 Is sewed to'it 1 by over-and-over stitch. Th.is is i triple-twist cord -at least,- and should-, be sewed"; on the exact edge of the cambric, so that: it just appears o% r er the collar, t It may be of white : or of a : colon , to ~ match the dress; and the . gold, silver; and r bronze cords * are I espe cially pretty -with ; the ; Persian embroid ery; now s» much "worn. "-.\u25a0= Make a suffi cient length at ' one . time to last you | for' several ruchings— buy a ; whole piece of cord, if.you can, and make it all. up to gether, v" \u25a0: -- .\u25a0.\u25a0; '\u25a0- ;. .:\u25a0\u25a0'.'. '.: \u25a0 \u25a0 . ' . -\ ::, Another corded s ruching is made by using the- very ; thin : white ; or ' black -thread. cord and sewing it on the cam bric in- a looped •\u25a0 and scalloped ;or - a wall-of-troy pattern. 7 . This cord is : very • stiff, and is easily caught and: held so as ;to >\u25a0;. form :a design. -This makes good, durable - tourist's ;-. ruching, as v does«nar row white or . black thread \u25a0 cord. - i The f pleated^ ruchlng : is .usually twhlte and : of r lawn ' or t linen, "- or of ; chiffon zor net,- though silk . and - f ribbon ruchings ' are -sometimes pleated J also. : The cam-, brio i foundation •is \ not \u25a0 sewed : together, \u25a0I but •; the : material for r the ruchlng; , is ; finely tucked or pleated, sewed to th» turned-in foundation and then finished by sewing up the other end -of the cam bric over ii—on I ' the machine, if possible, as this holds the goods -: and makes it easy to wash. Sometimes chiffon or tulle are simply loosely gathered ' under . the cambric,, giving the appearance of puffing. \u25a0 White materials should be. starched In washing; they hold , their shape and keep clean much longer. '\u25a0 -\ Folded I ruchings are best for "tailored "gowns, and are usually of .silk in, a color - to ; match : the- dress :or -Us trim ming. If it sbeTtrimmed; with ; silk pip ings or : buttons, the same silk: can v be' \u25a0 used ! : for the ruchlng. \ Make two or . three narrow. milliner's -fold^s, and sew . v under' the cambric as" shown in the , pleated - ruchlng. This ruchlng < differs from j the silk simply : folded and : sewed on. to the collar, in .that.V being. oorn r a \u25a0cambric foundation. that can' be removed , easily, -it is- renewed frequently -"- and ' \, always looks fresh and new.. At a very, .little extra expense a womamcan thus : avoid the ," bedraggled :~i appearance . so * / common .when ; ; a bit of silk Is ; simply .: stitched 'son .the collar, as a finishing touch.. ' .. • \u25a0 • -, ; Other materials.than" those mentioned f are.quite. possible: as; ruchings... Folded) pique; a makes,; a practical finish . for a - shirtwaists stock, and flowered dimity is ..delightful: on a lingerie dress- in ;« pale 1 dresden colors.' Those \u25a0 in' mourning -are always sure af having th,e correct black ruchings,'- though, except in: very thin :, waists. Jt is -better -to ; have a. white: rcambric foundation, 'as Tit . shows dirt .immediately -and thus Insures neatness." ••\u25a0'. Often .the - exact- color: that will go with ;a* gown is not >to b<? i found * In ; the stores. .: or .- the . ruching * materials : seem utterly incompatible with the dress fab ric:; and -then It tis that the made-at .-horne '\u25a0. rueliing i shows itself : in . all its ,-•, -• usefulness. v A '-few; -; minutes* machine • 'stitching will saye you the .buying?of -numberless iruchlngs and make you cer tain of ; always looking well, for It' Is '. the . minor < details ; In >; dress that count * \u25a0:: ;k-t' \u25a0.'\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0'::' :^\'- it:-'- ,\u25a0'>;-. -;•;>;\u25a0>;'*.>.' . • : ' Ruchlnga, by the way. should ; not be \u25a0:\u25a0•' pinned Jnto: the collar, -a method untidy . and uncomfortable. ;but;should be sewed in , by .-; long ; stitches ; in uneven ; basting. ;: with- "a-.? knot at^each^end ?.-< This j can ; easily, be; done without stowing. through in front.'- and keeps the ; ruching ' always • .firm i and; in 'place.; : -...-, -\u25a0•-.\u25a0 So \u25a0 the next • time «i you -; are ? going . to .buy a.ruche,. ruche, think ;better. of it;, buy the ,*. materials \u25a0 instead and', make yourself a , whole bolt *. of : ruching • for the \u25a0 price of \u25a0 r a neck-length.-- : ,,^> \u25a0 V;- -•..•.,>;: - The Revival of Ribbon Work IN MID-VICTORIAN times every girl did 'ribbon work. Ribbon reticules, beribboned shawls, rib bon-rtrlmmed sunshades were seen everywhere. But the pretty art went out with the crinoline, and has just come to light again. Let us hope It do*es not presage the crinoline also! Ribbon • work, properly speaking, does not consist of articles formed of ribbon or trimmed with it. It means the following of patterns and designs, usually flowers, but with any variety permissible, by means of the cutting • and sewing of white or colored rib bons, and the application of these to a fabric. The chief beauty of ribbon work is in its color and in its fineness. It is* a worthy rival to embroidery when well and artistically done. and can give with/ ease an appearance of nature that with embroidery would mean un usually skilled and laborious toil. The work is ; not, however, especially easy, as it needs the artist's eye and the craftsman's needle, but it is well worth the attention of any woman who loves pretty things. . •, ] The method of working can best be illustrated by a concrete example. Suppose that it is desired to adorn the. flounce of a lingerie dress with a tracery of ' forget-me-nots. For this you, will needa Dolt each of light blue and green baby ribbon and blue, green and yellow embroidery silk. First draw ypur pattern In pencil on the , goods, 'indicating . roughly the direction of the stems and the position of the blossoms. .. \u25a0i Do the stem and leaves first, twist ing- the ribbon into very narrow tub ing for the stem, sewing it firmly to the fabric with green thread and then forming each leaf of about one-six teenth of an inch of the green ribbon, puffed . slightly and -fastened with a stitch. at each end." Each petal of the flower is cut the same size as the leaf, since it is puffed higher, and Is fas tened *by i two or three stitches more tothe dress goods. In the center of each> blossom place ; a yellow French knot for -the pistils: "the petals, of course," are stitched In blue. -\ That is one way 1 of procedure: the other,- better. adapted for heavier goods, .is > not ::t6: :t6 > cut the: ribbon, but to run it under, the material, using. It as if It were.a;thlck embroidery silk, worked Hook-andrEye Hints WHEN ; sewing the hooks and eyes on the" placket, of a sklrtj sew one /pair; at the very bottom, fasten . them . arid crush them flat. This will ; keep ; the .. placket from ever tear ing or rlpplngiat the end." :.--. On a wash dress,. the eyes should be sewed on i the upper flap and the . hooka on the lower/ instead of the usual fash ion.. The top r flap can then be ironed flat/.- without the ; little - lumps left by ironing over hooks. - , \u25a0:\u25a0\u25a0- . • - In « working on heavy materials, alter nate the i,- hooks • and eyes: . first ~ an eye and : then a : hook on • one flap, with first a * hook; and -then an, eye on .the* other This ; tnethod will < hold , the - dress shut and> save- you •* from much . diacomfort and embarrassment. - The San. -Francisco Sunday Xalr Trimming fo/ Evening Cloak A STUNNING evening cloak of thin black satin lined with emerald green had a hood and slashed bandings of thin striped gold net. under which the black was cut away so as to give a lovely green-under gold effect. The heavy tassels were of gold, and the whole effect was magnificent. with an over-and-over stitch effect wherever visible above the fabric. Thia is the method used with large flowers, such as roses and pansies. Sometimes the leaves are. worked In this method, the stems in heavy twilled embroidery silk, and the flowers are simply quilled and puffed ribbon about an inch and & half wide. This is very striking in bor ders to lampshades and screens. The color is really the all-Important thing. On a white-trained evening dress* what more gorgeously beautiful thaa mauve orchids or little orange-yellow chrysanthemums? And every one of th» multitudinous rose colors can be gained, from the white rose to the crimson ram bler; even the pink and yellow tearosft is not unobtainable. ; The work has so> far. In its renais sance been applied mainly to dress. Court \u25a0 trains in England were being trimmed in this way before the king's death, and bridal gowns of soft liberty silk have been seen trimmed with white orange blossoms, but it 3 possibilities are endless. I have mentioned lampshades and scretns; the latter are especially pretty in Japanese effect, with purple irises and gilt ribbon chrysanthemums. \u25a0Then there are white china silk shawls, which are lovely with tiny silver tissue and ash-pink roses instead of the con ventional quilling or fringing; parasol*./ smart in tan with red geraniuma in ft<. regular conventional pattern, or dainty in light blue with tiny wreaths of -pink rpsebuda; bureau sets, wonderfully at tractive in heavy dotted net over light green and with a traced border of sweet alyssum or violets. . Thus in dress, in the household and in all the dainty nondescripts that add the finishing "touch to a personality or to a home the value of artistic ribbon work Is evident. Extreme care Is necessary in Its making, for nothing shows more plainly the effect of bungling or ama teurish methods; but when well done, with. the proper implements and the. needed attention to beauty and detail, it is so lovely that many women ara never again, satisfied with colored, em broidery after having compared it with ribbon work. It is certainly an art well revived, and let us hope that, without becoming com mon property to the extent that the fas tidious, disdain It. it will grow to be known and appreciated by all women in terested In the art of delicate needle work. : Latest in Petticoats DRESS underskirts are of fine mus lin or batiste.. Lace is more used in trimming than embroidery, all trimmings being neat rather than elab orate. AHover embroidery, cambria cluny, torchon and honiton edgings and insertions, are best. Under wash dresses, colored lawn, chambray and bati3te petticoats are most popular. These are embroidered \u25a0In/ white, with white* lace* insertions and, colored ribbon headings. \ Among novelties are white mus'Jn ) petticoats with a flounce, reaching to/ •the- knees, embroidered in color ar.dr finished with a beading run with ribbon of the- same shade.