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IT is not surprising that during the last few years the cult of the tailor V made yuit should have increased by Jcaps and hounds, for there is nothing \u25a0 ::i .the modistic line so well suited to 'i«*e climatic requirements of this coun .-x*y as the cloth coat and skirt. An other reason for this increased interest \u25a0Is the fact that American women are .-.naking m the knowledge that while •Paris may lay down the law as to the '.general style of our clothes, it is to -:Jj.e American tailor that we must look .for the adaptation of these sty!«s to vJJhe American figure; and nowhere is thr- tailored suit brought to such per fection, nowhere is the strictly mannish English line and the softly feminine .French style so skillfully blended, as : .i.ri our own country. '. llough materials have been decided "ftpon to lead ' the way in everyday jvear. Scotch and English homespuns, coarsely woven serges, tweed mix tures and heavy basket weaves all vie V:f first place.* Dark shades predomi-j V.ate. and in the mixtures black and vw-hite and heather mixtures in indis .viinct, flaky designs are well to the ifnre. The latter materials are espe j.clally good for the long coat, which ;Jibw has a distinct place in my lady's Wu'rdrobf. Broadcloth for the more Elaborate suits still holds sway, and velvet bids fair to hold a prominent ?l>:Vace in the winter fashion scheme r«f things. As to style — the close sil ..houette is adhered to very distinctly. "Fkillful goring, and in some cases a \u25a0•earn directly over each hip is used to \u25a0produce this long," narrow line. The Ladies' Tailor . Our Fall line of imported woolens is now complete and we invite an early inspection by all ladies interested in • high . class tailoring. We Guarantee Our Qegular Made to order Suit to be the best value given in San Francisco. Prices $35 to $60 45 Stockton St. Mezzanine Floor. Opp. Newman & Leyison. hobble skirt, which is regarded by the majority as a freak, has resolved itself into a deep, plain band of the material placed sometimes as high as the knees, confining the fullness, but giving am ple freedom in . walking. Trailing skirts are no longer smart, the round length being preferred always. Coats are semifitting, but are a little tighter than before. The newest ones show a length of. from 29 to 31 Inches. In the rough materials trimming is un necessary, and leather or bone buttons furnish the only embellishment; but in expensive broadcloths or fine grain serges braid is used with a lavish hand. Sleeves are small and plain. The greatest change is in, the collar, which now is of. the shawl variety, and in the more youthful suits this widens into a sailor shape. Blue is used very extensively, and in -the majority of suits a chic touch is given by the ad dition of a skirt belt, piping or bow'of this popular shade. Long coats in cut follow closely the lines of the tailored suit. Heavy, wool en fabrics, the hand made frieze, box cjoth and velvet hare all been pressed into service. Steamer rug material, showing a plain color on one Bide and plaid pattern on "the other, makes an THE.vSAy^FBAKQIS^^ attractive traveling coat, ; and j the fringe is used to trim the.. sleeves and collar. The 'majority of /he coats Varc semifitting back and front; and where, there is extra fullness, it is caught in a deep belt at the back as low down as the ankles. Fastenings on one. side (usually the left) with large Jshowy buttons and long roll collars are con spicuous features of the new coat. A very stunning coat shown by one of the most exclusive French shops' is. a corduroy velvet in a beautiful hunter* green color. The,, extreme simplicity; of cut, which is charmingly offset by the richness of the material, is/ re lieved only by the trimming of silk braid which shows threads of gold deftly introduced in the weave. This braid binds the high military collar, and is made into frogs and buttons Important Advance Sale of the Smartest Furs in Fashion's Realm A splendid variety of original and- imported -models af prices that are much .lower than will later. I "the Gassner Opening Sale of Furs begins tomorrow, and, as usual, willrbe'tHe foremost event of its kind in San Francisco. • • We Make the Price; Attractions Very Powerful We jpjace on -sale the Choicest :Furs"; that/, the world's Fashion Authorities ;haye. decreed: to be the correct Styles for' 1910-191', and 1 ask such extremely* moderate" prices that it .really . becomes an imperative/duty for you -to attend." v. Our Remodeling and Repair Department is the 'largest apd best equipped in the West. > The^reasonableness- of pur \u25a0 prices; consistent with the : high, character. of ; , our work; As too well established to require any comment^/ Illustrated -catalogue: mailed free upon request.' . . 112-114 Qeary Street ; which form the fastening. A touch of fur (skunk)shows at the cliffs, neck and under " the braid . in front '- in * such a way as/to suggest a lining of c fur. For "evening wear, wraps are necessa rily very loose and enveloping, and in these, coats of satin" made with wide square sleeves like a -mandarin coat, heavily trimmed, with .embroidery and lace, and liberty capes, roomy and graceful divide the honors of the year. For the uncertain days of autumn, a rain coat is a decidedly valuable pos session, and manufacturers, are wak ing to this fact. Instead, of the heavy, shapeless, most unbecoming garments, which, made up the protection against rain oovaf v a few, years ago, we now have smart coats of light weight material perfectly cut on the cor rect lines prescribed by Dame Fashion THE FASHION DICTATES IN SUITS, GOWNS & WRAPS Gould, Sullivan & Co for. our cloth coats. Quiet colors are the .; ones most chosen— ;gray, blue, brown and shepherds plaid, with dark er shades \u25a0or different • colors used forTtriinming. \ .While in tailored suits there would seem to be a scarcity of. material, there is little of that' tendency in the evening gowns of today. 'Satin in. its many varieties is being used most ex haustively, with., chiffon and net in combination— the result aimed for be ing extreme '/softness and clinging lines. The skirts are narrow In founda tion but there is niore" of a tendency In this line' to : draperies. ' Some indeed suggest the panniers of a few" years STRICTLY W?AN TAILORED SUITS IN ALL THE . j Js! ;fj| |\ FASHIONABLE WEAVES AND COLORS. AND DE- ' Iff ||| 1 SIGNED r RIGHT UP TO THE HOUR. j WT^f|| , -PRICED/FROM $35.00 TO-$95.00. p-||jj | | J OUR LINE OF EVENING, COSTUMES, WRAPS | jS\ j| • || || AND DRESSES FOR'STREET AND EVENING WEAR /I J 9 i! |||| IS NOW COMPLETE AND THE MOST EXCLUSIVE || I f|f|| f I SHOWN IN; THIS CITY, AND AT PRICES THAT /1 1 | ji || WILL APPEAL TO ALL GOOD DRESSERS. / WE ALSO CARRY v A VERY FINE. LINE OF HIGH : GRADE FURS, REASONABLY Aboveisa fine Bla< * ' '^ • Chiffon Broadcloth Bro- nrxiS-'i-'M' . » ; cade Lining. \u25a0 ;we invite your inspects . . ' Price $65.00 ago. Flounces of soft chiffon are seen, • placed from the knees down, and are always banded on so that the narrow effect Is preserved. Much lace and heavy embroidery of silk, gold and silver' are seen In the list of trim mings, which also Includes rhinestones and beads. For afternoon gowns, foulard is still a leader, its effective ness and practical. wearing qualities be ing a^strong recommendation. Strongly suggestive of a remnant sale is the present fashion of mingling a plain* fabric with one having an all over pat tern in the same gown; and while it is an idea which will stand many in I good stead, it has to be handled with the skill of an artist to get the prope? effect. Sleeves are gradually creeping back to the short lengths and com* very little below the elbow. They are kept as narrow as possible, all trim mings being applied in fiat fashion. During the past season, the pretty fashion of scarfs was revived, and they are now being used much as evening wraps. They are made of soft satin, lined with the same material in an other color, and are made wide enough to fall in cloudy grace well over the shoulders. The ends are shirred into a point and finished with a large'taasel of chenille or ball fringe of taffetas. The usual size Is 3 yards by 1. 63