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The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, November 13, 1910, Image 20

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85066387/1910-11-13/ed-1/seq-20/

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Cap and Bib for the Baby
HIS or her royal highness needs
your attention just now, and
what can be daintier than a
handmade gift of a cap and bib
embroidered in this babyish design of
dainty bowknots, daisies and forget
me-no-ts? For your own little one, or
fur your friend's baby, this page sug
gests an idea for Christmas, or for a
christening gift, or just because you
love it.
You should work this on fin© linen
or nainsook. I think that with very
fine work no padding Is required, the
design being sufficiently close to give
a Jovely effect. If you wish, you can
Elightly pad the < bowknots on th©
turned-back flap of the bonnet.
The forget-me-nots you will work
across the petals, using fine mercer
ized cotton. Do the leaves also in solid
stitch and the stems in the finest kind
of stem stitches. Pad the scallops and
work as usual with fine buttonhole
etitch. >i'^
"When doing the daisy forms you
can give variety by working them in
eyelet stitch, but the solid work is
equally effective.
When working the attractive flap
for the bonnet you will find that you
can introduce eyelet work here with
greater freedom, for there is practi
cally, no strain and the design is solid
erouph to allow the relief of open
Do the tiny forget-me-nots as di
rected for the bib, and the stems and
leaves in a similar way.
Suppose that you do not wish to
work the bowknots solid. A delight
ful variation is outlining the rib
bon with outline stitch. Whip this a
pec^nd time, placing the needle in
at the overlapped parts of the stitch,
end then fill in the space with tiny
eeed-stitcbes, which really are small
A Picture Apron
A FRACTIOUS child can often be
amused for a long while if
mother or nurse reserves for
this restless mood a play apron cov
ered with pictures or odd figures.
An easy model for such an apron is
to gather straight folds of red muslin
to a band that buttons around the
child's chest, just under the arms.
This is held in place by straps over
the shoulder. On each side of the
front are set-on pockets.
Cut pictures from linen books, or
£raw figures and animals on different
colored muslins. These may be either
eppliqued to the apron in borders and
panels or they can be pasted with a
flour paste so that they can be washed
off when U?<? apron is soiled, and a
new supply put on.
EVERY woman knows how annoy
ing it is to use a new spool of
glace thread on the spindle of
the sewing machine. To avoid the
usual tangling and breaking of the
thread, use a small bag. with a wire
around the top fo hold it open.
Suspend it from a tiny screweye
fastened under the back edge of the
machine table. Drop the spool in this
bag; then thread the machine as
usual, and you will find that the cot
ton will run freely, without tangling
or slipping.
back stitches in parallel lines. --.;
The round form is for the back, and
the tie-end speaks for itself in its
pretty completeness. .
Baby caps and bibs are among the
Children <s Clothing
CHILDREN'S clothes are always a
problem for the mother who makes
them at home. But even the baby
may profit by the suggestions here
given. For his or. her imperial majesty
a creeping frock may be", made by
stitching an extra piece o£ material,
10x6 inches, to the center back of any
plain dress or slip. Attach by means
of buttons and buttonholes.. This hand
is adjusted after putting on the dress,
which it keeps down over the under
clothes and stockings while the baby is
enjoying himself on the floor.
In sewing the vent 3of children's dress
es, which usually receive the hardest of
wear, the continuous placket is the best
to use. This is a straight strip of ma
terial, cut on a lengthwise thread and
sewed to the edges of the placket in a
straight seam. The seam is folded -.in
the middle and the other edge Is then
hemmed in position. The band is
turned back- on the side of the plackc:
overlapping the outside, so as to forma
facing; on the under ; side it forms a
small extension flap.
Mitten time is coming; look up your
6craps of velvet, plush or cloth to keep
the children's hands warm in the winter.
To secure a pattern,.have,the child placa
his hand on a piece of paper, fingers
together and thumb , out, etfd draw
around it Round, out the upper, edge,
so as.to allow plenty of room. Cut two
sections for each hand, and bind the
wrist openings with silk tape.
most appreciated articles in the littlo
»vafdrobe. There can- never be too
many of them, arid today I think that
you are 4 especially fortunate in hav
ing this page from which to work.
For Embroiderers
ONE reason why embroidered ar
ticles are not competed is- that
;a woman gets a stamped piece
*and a lot of embroidery silk, takes them
home., works oh the piece . for a time
and then puts it aside for several days.
Then when sfie is ready to take up
Jj the work again she has probably for
gotten air about the scheme. or arrange
ment of the colors. She may make a
trip back to the store for^the purpose of
inspecting. a sample finished piece, but
\u25a0only to find that the latter has been
One very simple, inexpensive and
practical way. to overcome circum
stances of this '.kind .'is for her, as soon
as she buys the stamped article and the
silk, to take crayons of corresponding
colors. and mark the different portions
of the stamped pattern to correspond
with the finished, piece. Then is there
no danger ', of forgetting the colors of
the design she wishes to. copy.
Sewing Machine/Hint
IT, IS often, difficult to .sew any thin
fabric, such as any of ; the- .modish
veiling materials, or silk or muslin,
on the machine without puckering It.'
This can 'be avoided 'by. '• placing - a
elieet :Of tl6sue 3 paper, under the mate
rial and. stitching through the material
and the paper. -.When .finished, 'the
paper can easily. b& torn <away,' and you
will .find .that, your work is quite flat
and smooth.' .
For the Economical
MOST of us who have none too full,
pocketbooka look with dread
upon the making of new clothes
with'each fresh season. Here are a few
I ways of reducing the necessary cost:
' fey cuttjng out the neck of a worn
lingerie ; shirtwaist in round,, square or .
; V-shape, you have a fine corset
cover. Cut off the sleeves of- the { waist
for a peplum, and trim the cut edges
with beading for wash-ribbon,: and: a^
Valenciennes edge.
mlf * the waist closes in the back/ place
\u25a0* a strip.of insertion to conceal this, and
make a new. closing in front, by sewing-,
, on a facing cut from: the. skirt section 1
;of the shirtwaist. i; This last, should be.:
cut off at the waist line before the pep
•lum-is added. \u25a0 \u25a0\u25a0\u25a0'• \u25a0 \u25a0:'\u25a0.\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0 ;*\u25a0,\u25a0•'
; '.To trim, an inexpensive' -house dress, \
cut^; out: fancy pattern outlines of solid- \u25a0'
colored chambray . and apply these pat
terns as edges and bandings on checked. -
plaid or striped ginghams. .Patterns -for B
• these trimmings, cut from' paper, should
?be:basted byjhand to the dress and:
> then imachlne-stltched. . ;
;>: Sometimes; you -will -pick up remnants
\u25a0of lace and embroidery cut' in odd sizes.
"To i piece - these, cover \u25a0\u25a0 with - knots and --,
loops- of -soutache or coronation braid '
to hide the joined part. - ;
- Surely, \ one of tthese three hints will
: oeln ; to solve •' your problem.
Velvet Quills
ON MANY of the new hats this fall,
§ instead of feather quills, quills are
appearing* formed simply of -vel
vet, cut:and stitched to the proper size
and .shape and fastened by a row of
stitching down, the middio to give the
effect cf the. central vein. The quill Is,
of course,^ wired. The sarno idea can.be
worked out in satin-also, and thejwhole
can easily -be . duplicated by a: clever
woman ,"\u25a0 with a turn ; for , needlework.
Strangely enough. -many of the new
feather toques, completely/ formed of
feathers. ', are trimmed with these velvet
quills. Surely, a reversal of the usual
conditions! .;\u25a0 : . • , '~ 'y~ : -
Shirtwaist Sleeves
T~-v BESSES and shirtwaists always be
iyl •{ come /soiled^ and worn out on the
•*—^< sleeves .'faster than anywhere
else; ; moreover, : separate, black sleeves
soil \u25a0;-. almost " immediately - . any . . white
waist they are worn : with.' ; A good • idea,
is to make v with each blouse a "pair of «
extra sleeves, ; reaching ; a little \u25a0 above
the = elbows iand \u25a0 fashioned of ' the ' game
fabric and -cut-as: the, sleeves .under
neath. \. Fasten* -these with a band' of
hat rubber under a h pm "" ' n 'il fiWU'lf WWH
A Trio of ' Useful Hints
THE home dressmaker should,
above all. keep up to date in her
tools. I There are so many flme
. savers that she can have at little cost!
One of these i 3 a pair of scissors which
\is fastened to a bias gauge. This Is so
constructed that, after cutting the cloth
on the bia3 and adjusting the cause to
the number of inches the width of tfce
pieces is » to be, the bias edge of the
cloth. may be slipped into the gauge.
and, as the scissors cut ahead, a piece
\u25a0uniform in width is cut oft the material.
For. cutting trimming bands, which it is
absolutely necessary to have perfectly
true, these scissors. have no equal. And
they cost less than $1 all told! '
A black silk waist which must stand
hard service should have two linings of
.white lawn or batiste. < These should be
loosely tacked inside the waiat and worn
on alternate days.'
To make a perfectly fitting extra belt
on a one-piece dreas cut a. strip of bias
silk aaout 4& Inches 'wide and a trifle
; smaller than the-, waist measure. Turn
in a narrow hem. all the way around
-and carefully slip-stitch this. Fold th/s
-silk in half and shirr this fold. Along it
tack a piece of., whalebone three
inches long. Make a row of shirring
each side of this row, each- of these
rows being -1% inches away from- it.
Then along these tack pieces of.whale
bone 2% inches long, sew to the front
edges' crochet-covered rings and small
pieces of two-inch wide ribbon; late the
ribbon through the loops and tie in a'
: bow in front. A safety pin * may be
sewed on; the inside across the lower
edereof the back.' so that the waist and
ekiii may be pinned together.
The. San Francisco -Sunday Gall
NOT all embroidered, strictly speak
ing, but all bics of delicate fancy
work that the butterflies among
your acquaintances will be delighted to
receive as Christmas gifts if you will
start to make them now. When milady
dons her expensive pair of satin lace
trimmed corsets, she likes to feel that
every littlo accessory pertaining to them
is equally dainty. And there are many
of these accessories which, as I have
said, may be made at horne 1 .
There are the satin stocking support
ers, for instance. To make these, buy
plain garter elastic, or a pair of
ordinary white elastic garters, and re-,
move the metal attachments. Measured
the elastic and purchase thin satin
messalln© ribbon, in white or in a light
shade to match the corset, using on©
and a half times the length of the rub
ber. On two pieces of the ribbon em
broider a tiny spray of flowers. Thes©
embroidered pieces are the upper halves
of the garter. Now Join th© edges with
a double row of shirring and sew an
edging of valenclennes lac© on either
side. Insert the elastic, finish neatly at
the top, sew in a strong bar safety pin
and then add the hook-and-button at
tachment at the bottom. Thk 'last
should be taken from an ordinary pair
of rubber garters. Finally, a rosette of
baby ribbon at the bottom of tha shirred
satin is a pretty finish.
Many figures requirs a rufS© sewed
. over the top of th» corset cover to mak©
the waist set well. To maks this, us©
coarse mallne, pleated like a Pierrot ruff
and run with baby ribbon that ends In a
A combined pad and jacket can b«
mad©/ of dotted swiss. trimmed with
Valenciennes edging and caught to
gether in the middle with a rosette of
baby ribbon. Stuff with absorbent cot
ton well sprinkled with «achet powder.
Even the # woman who does not wish
a pad likes a cachet In her corset, so
for her make th» ribbon sachet.
This consists of strips of satin ribbon
one-half to three-quarters of an inch
wide. Work these in and out over at
Apiece of cardboard. In the "darning"
weave used in paper mats In the kinder
gartens. When finished to th© size de
sired, take cut the cardboard and in
sert a thin, folded piece of tls3u© paper
filled with cachet powder. Sew th© end.
paint or embroider a spray of flowers on
one side and finish with a small bow of
narrow ribbom
A pretty jewel pocket, which can b©
fastened to the corset at the wal3t, is of
white suede, the edges closely over
seamed with white saddler's thread and
the flap fastened with a glove clasp. On
the back of this sew a bow of stiff
satin ribbon wide enough to hl<3e v th©
pocket. At top and bottom strong safety
pins are sawed. *"*
Finally there la the corset roll, which
should hold the corset when not in ns«.
Get from a shademaker an odd length
of wood roller, as thick as possible. Sew
muslin on. this; do not paste or glue.
"Cover again with a thin sheet of absorb
ent cotton, then with another layer
sprinkled with sachet powder. Last*
cover with thick white silk or shirred
satin. Do rot roll corsets upon It until
they have been thoroughly aired and
• dried.
Sewing Helps
IN SEWING very sheer lawns or
lightweight silks, if they gather
under the machine foot, slip a piece
of newspaper under th© goods and sew
through it, too, and the gathering will
cease. The paper is easily removed,
and leaves no trace.
Mothers know what trouble* it la to
have buttons pulling off and tearing a
hole in the garment, and to have but
tonholes tear out, for they ar© hard
to repair. If two or four extra thick
nesses of the goods b© put Into bands
or hems where the strain comes on but
tons or buttonholes, and a littl© coarser
thread used in sewing on buttons and
working buttonholes, it will usually pre
vent the tearing out and say© much
work and annoyance.
If hems of muslin, calico, lawn or
gingham be turned and pressed with
an iron. It saves tho work of •baatln"
and Is just as satisfactory.
Two Made-Overs
DID you know that you could maks
over yqur old tailored shirtwaists
for house wear In tho morning?
Cut out th© neck at the collarband and
the sleeves at the cuffs. Supply Instead
plain percala loiw collars and turn-back
cuffs of some contrasting color. Cut off
also th« \u25a0skirt sections, which are usu
ally torn by pinning, and supply a belt
of the percale. Thia belt will fasten
over the skirt; thua. all you will need to
complete your toilet when dressing hur
riedly in the morning will b© a pia to
hold your collar closed.
Another made-over is the apron which
was originally a lingerie blouse. Use
the front, cutting a bib of on© sle»v«
and tie-ends of the othur. The bac»
will make the belt and face the lowa/
€dge. With a little ribbon-run beading
and a lace ruffle, here is an apron you
\u25a0will not be ashamed to pour tea or do
embroidery In.
Sewing Harsh Goods
IT IS very hard to sew such harsh
goods as calico and heavy muslin.
Bine© the needles break very easily.
This difficulty may be overcome by rub
bing the hem or seam with a dry'piece
of soap, when the needle will, penetrate
without difficulty. This plan is equally
good for both machine and hand work.
To Clean Embroidery
DIP a camel's-halr brush in. spirits
of wine and brush all over ta»
embroidery until it is Quite clean.
The brush should be frequently ringed
in some spare spirits, in another sla33.
to remove the dirt. \
The embroidery need not be taken off
the garment or piece.'

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