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From Paris PARIS. Nov. 3. ELAS: " sighs, the onlooker I— I when he sees the boulevards X X shorn of their foliage by the November winds and rain; but the Pa risienne looks at the skies and the bare trees, shrugs her pretty shoulders— and orders another gown! Cvening gowns are quite simple in • line. The colorings are exquisite. There's a flame-colored chiffon at Paul Poiret's that Is a glorious expression of this designer's lov* for the oriental. The tunic falls over stone-gray net, \u25a0^sighted by a deep band of ste«l beads. A high line at the waist is suggested by a dull silver cord outlining the bo lero effect on the bodice. With this Is worn an oriental band cf silver tissue studded with flame-colored stone* and old allver. At Rumplemayer's tearoom the other flay two stunning walking euits were seen. Both were velvet and both were typical of the season's lines. Just a allghtly raised line at the back hinted of the change bo obvious In evening ( omi. Deep, ' supple revere of satin dropped at the front. The skirts could never be convicted of too much mate rial, for the Frenchwoman of Paris In •lsts upon the slender outline. Perhapa It gives height to her generally short figure. An introduction of bead em broidery was given at the yoke, belt and cuff lines. The opaquo porcelain beads were ustd in patches of brilliant color, the shade of the suit predomi nating. Pale blue and lavender. are combined In many effective ways and shown by a leading house here. In fact, these hues • might almost be considered the coinbf catlon of this modiste's for the season. .The plain satin skirt, having a short pointed train and accompanied by a bolero bodice, Is something new. It Is called'a gown, and the bill for one will open husband's «yes and mouth; but it la to chic, so becoming to most of us and can be worn on so many occasions that we fall a victim to its channa, Tet one of these ought to be made at home at small cost and little trouble. If you do, introduce a brilliant touch of color and a suggestion of gilt or silver.* This latter can be embroidery or lace, and frequently on the same frock Is seen a combination of the two metals. . A touch of black velvet is almost In evitable. Rarely does one see an after noon or evening frock without it. On one there \u25a0will be given a deep- hem; on another a girdle and sash ends, while pipings, boleros, rosettes and panels \u25a0how clearly how popular this fabric is. The hats! The latest is a "French hood." Of course, it doesn't look at all like a hood, but in one of its phases It can. With protean ease* it can be turned into a Napoleonic turban or an elpine hat, and then into a closely fit ted round form. Soft beaver is the usual form of this friendly chapeau. Every one is crazy about It: for not often does one buy five or six shapes In one. A simple cabochon is the only trimming, and when you take the hat •with you it is straightened out, packed - flat and then is ready for your nimbi* fingers. ELOISE. Moire Coats TAILORS are bemoaning the fact that long coats are no more. They say that our figures do not " quite suit short coats, but they are so Clever that they make the garment to suit the figure; and if this is not possi ble, the kind corsetiere is always reaxiy and willing to alter the figure. How many changes have we not had, from the Gibsonlan figure to the lathlike one of the present day! Among the favored materials, and one that will ring the changes with velvet. Is moire, which appeared with such •uccess la the spring. The moires of to day are not the stiff, shiny things of our grandmothers' time, but are softly •haded and pliable; and yet they are strong enough to lend themselves. to the exigencies of the tailor-made. One costume of this kind was of blue and mauve shot moire, trimmed simply with straps of same, in flat tucks and gold ball buttons.' The long protective paletot is again In evidence, in ribbed silk, satin and vel vet, often trimmed with a narrow band of fur down either front and along the lower edge in the "old time" way. Coat cleeves promise to be^slightly increased In width at the shoulder, but close fitting from the elbow downward. Artificial Flowers THE exquisite blossoms produced by the skill of Parisian workers are at present' put In the •hade by the return to the old-fashioned Cowers formally, modeled with ribbon or silk pieces In the manner cherished by our grandmothers. Hence the real rococo ribbon work is revived in all its peculiarities, together with large padded blossoms, modeled with interlaced bits of silk, leaves gathered in the center, with an. occasional Intermingling of filigree work. These are used either in tufts or wreaths to ornament millinery creations and fancy notions of every kind. v •' Bouquets of this style are often tucked In the belt of evening gowns, while huge poppies, for Instance, with- buds modeled In light-colored leather, have mads their appearance on picturesque hats as a reminder of the leather blos soms once In fashion to decorate looking «r:aases, caskets and so on. The Newest in Muff s rHE enormous muffs which still pre vail—if large at all then they must be simpiy stupendous, exact ly like a fur rug folded— look very well in wolf skins, provided that extreme ly handsome kind Is used which bears a likeness in color to silver for. So. again, in the now seldom seen Isabella' bear, they are effective. .The very dark Kray squirrel with a brownish stripe in the back makes a lovely wide stole and rich muff hemmed with dark mink for those who like a combination of furs, end 60 does beaver made up very sup ple and limp; but this looks best by it eeif. FOR HOME DRESSMAKER PL A I D IS AGAIN I N V OGUE THE old favorite. . plaid, is again here. It has one reliable point in the popularity accorded to different fabrics: after short rests this satisfactory material bobs up serenely and successfully takes its wearer through a season. The covered surface is dirt defying; it is effectively allied with plain ma terials In a dress, and It gives a smart trimming for, velvet, cloth or silk.- For little girls plaid Is always good style. When trimmed with plain collar: and cuffs, or with one-toned bands of co'n traatlng color, it can be made distinct ive and modish. In Paris some of the finest coats and dresses are exploited in plaid by the leading houses that make children's garments. At the side of this interesting group of ideas stands a little girl in a brown plaid coat. The texture Is rough, with a stripe of nattier blue. The deep col lar, "which forms a hood at the back, Is of plain nattier blue serge. A silk tassel hangs from the hood and the coat fastens in front with one large bone button. Holding -hands with this little' tot Is another young woman who is undoubt edly sharing the honors. This sketch is suitable for a girl from 14 to 20 years old. It shows a suit of plain blue serge trimmed with blue and green plaid. This forms the deep sailor collar and supple revers edged with a band. The jaunty slanting line at the front is called to your notice. Turned -back cuffs and: a broad band on»the skirt are used to com plete the Idea of the touch of plaid. Black and Blue BLACK combined" with royal or nat tier blue is to be very popular thl3 season. The great \ advantage of this mixture of colors is that. lt is. be coming alike 1 to fair, or dark women, whether ' young or of advancing \u25a0 years ; and.it is always more or less in favor. Models of the. great houses _are often simple in design, the reason of their ar tistic effect resulting from the disposi-. tion of trimming; so that a woman of moderate Income but unerring taste can work wonders by planning out. her own frocks. For afternoon 'wear . a bit of gold in addition wonderfully enlivens a dress, and is generally becoming \to ' the complexion: Gold .' embroidery, and lace are immensely in vogue.;.. If a black house-dress be chosen, soft en it with a* line of bjue at top of the collar, or several rows of chain stitch in gilt thread. A gold dangling collar at the base of the throat, or a turquoise or aquamarine pendant,' makes all-black less trying and removes the suggestion of mourning. " Unrelieved \u25a0 black Js 1 not, as a rule, becoming, and least of all to the woman past her; first youth." Turn, therefore, to the touch of blue. Feathers for Millinery A IGRETTES and paradise plumes j\ will be worn— except by membera •*\u25a0 "^* of the Audubon societies.. Ostrich plumes come principally in black, white and gray. Shaded willow plumes will be seen, pink near the midrib, fading to. white, and then dark pink or black at the curled edge. \u25a0 . .^ Drooping:' plumes are to be worn upright at the side, or back of, high helmet-like • hats, as \u25a0 a '-, final manifes tation of the "Chantecler" style. White-tipped black fox fur is bein/r cut and mounted like quills, as a rival to iU feathered cousins. , Here is a practical Idea for trimming last year's suit. Purchase a remnant of plaid. and use. as suggested. The en tire appearance can -be altered by the Introduction of this ; favorite material. • On the /third dress Is shown an'un usual shaped collar. The dark blue plaid with introductions of scarlet and gold has a plain collar of scarlet serge. The front «edge of this is modified from the square line. Cut after, being basted CLOCHE SHAPED HATS FOR LITTLE GIRLS ( (T~\ELL shaped".' is the translation r*y of the French '; term. -One fact .r~f.V Is * iun'deniable-^-the becoming ness of these shapes to little faces, "tit-, ting down .over the > little heads -and training the curls or : the>lx>bbed halr.v , The first ; shape is of pale rose, ; covered with lace; Tit 'is" bound with ; black .velvet and /trimmed -with V" narrow band and r a tiny ', bow-; at * the'side. • The:- facing -is of ? rose - silk. \u0084.., \u25a0•\u25a0\u0084•• .-,;., = -.^ 'Below is shown a shape with a puffed crown of 'black 'velvet, edged'.* with* » on the. form. The other, side can be ac curately shaped"; f rom the first j cutting. Five plain colored buttons fasten the single-breasted line* 77 * at the front. Browns arid greens form the smaller plaid for the young girl- in the military suit. The } jacket ' buttons ,at the side under braid • ornaments, and by hooka and eyes under the flap at the top. This braided effect > is repeated on the skirt. A small collar., and straight cuffs are of plain 1 brown' cloth. With this is worn a military hat,- of velvet,- turned up in. three sections and s ornamented with a pleated fan- of gold; tissue. Last of all is shown a combination of _; ruffle . of . white i satin; striped, with black. A silk, *cord;.is^Ued* around the . crown end ;knotted.Vlf/.a; knotted. Vlf/.a* fluffy^ effect .be de eired.7 an ; overdrapery -of lace on the '-. brim, can ; be \ used. - * \u25a0 • • ;A ; choii of - ebru ; lace trims the velvet • hat • above. ?( This j-^ ls jan - easy, • simple '.-, method ; of 1 trimming ?a ; hat. It gives .'• oontrast- and "a: sufficient trimming, for the little; bhe,V while tcomblni-ng; easy! construction with cost :/,-,.- \u25a0".„ ,„ Ermine \ is 4 used ; as a~ band* on the next .; little ,; nuodel.7.J iThe -crown " is oval .in .•, shape and i the lbrim '- is \ of cream-colored f frilled' over^ white*: satin. .r.. r . • « - :. , Pale : pink ' felt" Is ; trimmed \ with a band ; of skunk' fur.'' AA white Tgardenia "of. kid ;is i placed \u25a0% at: one Vsjde.V tinted,*" if - you* . wish.'i with" a pale shade of, pink. -using : a ; i watercolor 'brush: \: This i new r flower..- is durable,' ; admitting;frequent'cleanlngs. \u25a0 Last >of \u25a0\u25a0 the is -a shape :In two remnants, which always hold a mes sage of hope for home • dressmakers. Scotch plaid is used with a band of plain blue on the. lower part of the skirt and outlining the yoke and sleeves. The jacket worn with this ' one-piece frock is of plain dark blue serge trim med with a plain collar and with an insertion of plaid on the outer edge of rach cuff. The Jacket Is short, the re vers large, and the .whole costume gives an effect of a tailored suit; but it can be made at home.' * Paris sends. these plaid suggestions to America with her sanction. It Is for you to follow along the many-colored way just for a reliable and becoming change. nattier blue. Corded silk was used for this model, but .any soft satin will do. The -: full . crown is ; gathered In under two: rows of corded shirring. Irish lace in points falls over the plain.brlm. Eye let - embroidery— or- metallic lace la a The Over skirt ttbrY few skirts are plain, nearly all \/ showing a .tunic *.or ' oyersklrt » effect. X Many • overskirts , come within a few '•inches (of 'the; bottom, of the skirt, and 2' are hedged with ; &, trimming .which does 'not catch in the skirt;', but merely ' gives a .finish ".to the tunic. v The slashed overskirt . is new. It 'Is slashed- at • the ' side , and shows the underskirt, like the- old-fashioned dresees -which were arranged to snow V" the petticoat. . . . ' The San Francisco Sunday Call Fabrics and Fashions WE BLu\ME too often th© p«o?i» who bring out the new modes, though who they" are is a moot point. . In nine cases out of ten it Is the people •who wear them that misapply th#>m- A material and its fashioning may be well 6ulted to an actress to wear on, the stage in a certain ro!e. and yet be quite . out of place for the general wear of the upper middle classes, who ar» too apt to rush at the last new thing simply be cause it is that and not because it 1» what should .suit them. Extraordinary things are for extraor dinary people, and not for th© multltuda. The Turkish pantaloon skirt, which fol lowsi closely on the hobble skirt, might suit. say. one in 1000. and 999 woujd loafc terrible in it. It is voluminous, but hangs as Turkish trousers would, cmsht in by a very narrow hem Just abov« the shoes- In satin or, chiffon it aerves tfor day wear; in tulle and other diaph anous stuffs, elaborately worked wlta pearls and seqolns; it is employed ior ball gowns. The hat* and the skirts are far more 'extreme than the bodices. The way th« eldrta have outlined the figure of lat» can hardly be too higb-ly condemned, for it Is not elegant or becoming. liuck lly.ln dresses, as in millinery. th«re is a o much variety everybody ought to b« able to make her own selection and salt her own good points. It is well, especially in autumn *nd spring, when th» •wardrobe has to bo a one* through, exactly* to Investigate what there Is, what to renovate end what errors in the past to abjure. In tmying tt Is -well also to remember that everything that Is fashlonabla is not becoming. Do not be led astray by at tractive wares that are offered cheap; possibly for you they win be dear In th« end, and very certainly so if you do not really want them. Suit Modes SHORT, ttralght-cut Jackets and * narrow skirts are th« rule. , / However, there is suca variety in trimming that wo shall not all look alike.-: t<:? . \u25a0-^- ; The jackets button over at the side, and usually sport a sailor collar. Ehort-walsted effects are- frequent. Gored or 'semicircular styles in skirts are given the preference over cluster-pleated models. Tailored suits are shown largely In rough materials in mannish effects. Serge ar.d cheviot are more seen than broadcloth, except in black. Broken plaids, invisible checks, herringbone effects, melanges and mat weaves are all receiving their share of attention. Plain velvet, also hairline stripes, amall checks and corduroys, are Tory much In the mode. Black and dark colors lead in popu larity; raven's *wing and navy blue. seal and golden brown, dark green and gray are all popular. Black or gray and white mixtures are also good, and some light shades of rose, green and blue are seen. Veilings and Fabrics NEW veilings show interwoven cir cles as large as half a dollar, and close rows of lattice work with a thick Bpot at each intersection. ""One of the loveliest fabrics for dressy wear Us the moire messaline. in quit* new designs of waterings, shot In all kinds of chameleon colors, which used to be called pigeon's wing, bluo and pink or mauve and another tone of blue, or green and violet. The designs upon it are often, minute, as though raindrops had fallen upon' the fabric; in others the watering is close set. like ths traces left on the eand by the receding waves. They are all far removed from ths old-fxshioned watered silk. practical and less expensive sugsestloa. Do not forget the little one when plan-I nlngthis season's millinery. One aft ernoQn will suffice for making a cloche shaped hat that will combine a modi3ii simplicity with a comfortable cost Under and over skirt are frequently of different materials, though usually of the same color. '* In more elaborate gowns the over eklrt is frequently cut into two pieces, one crossing over the other in surpUc* effect. A new style from. Pari3 'shows th« ovensklrt on one side, apparently an extension of the draping on the bodies. . This gives the' gown the" effect of har- ' ing been draped on the figure '