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The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, November 20, 1910, Image 22

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New Janus Fabric
YOU of course remember the keeper
of the gates in classic myth, who
looked forward and backward
with his double face? Well, its a long
m-ay from mythology to fabrics, but a
double-faced material has been evolved,
and Is deservedly occupying front rank.
It Is on one side a beautiful cloth; on
the other a lustrous satin. This means
that the dressmaker can use both sur
faces with wonderful effect.
A bodice of this fabric pan be made of
cloth, and the deep Louis revers, so
much Jn favor just now, can be formed
of the same cloth merely turned back
from the front line. This? material en
ables a deep hem <on the skirt to be
- made by a quick turning up of the
goods; sleeves car. i.-c faced, or edged
\u25a0with bands that are of contrasting ma
terial, but are really of nothing: except
the back of ihe
For evening capes this cloth is partic
ularly adapted. This, if made on
a perfectly plain pattern, can be re
versible — now a cloth cape, tomorrow a
•atln. Scarfs, muffs and sashes of this
rIS i* a season of oddly finished
girdles and sashes, says .Paris.
They may be of chiffon or not or
o£ tullo, «"fl they axe embroidered or
HOW different are the silk
blouses of " today from
those of a few" seasons
ago! The stiff taffeta
model with its ungraceful lines
has been replaced, by Parisian
Janus cloth are very stunning.
For a little more than the price of
cloth this new fabric practically doubles
the possibilities. It Is worth a careful
consideration when choosing a new
fabric/ \u25a0•-:':.' IV: -"./'. , .- : -:~ : -i'
6pangled ; with glass silver or gilt
beads. Besides these, there are i the
straight girdles with origihalknots and
bows; and a, few of these we show here.
makers by an . attractive, ; good-fitting
style that shows silk in its' most attract
ive colors, trimmed in clever-ways and
so designed that a tailored .suit Is in
stantly changed into a three-piece gown.
There are no straight silk collars to ab
sorb the oil from the skin; there are no
lines at the shoulder seams that- verily
hide the graceful figure under unneces
sary, folds.
Loo* down the line of attractive
mo^eis before you. Simplicity, at
tractive ornamentation
of braid and buttons
and -the popular chemi
settes of lace to insure
freshness at the yoke
and sleeves are the
main factors that'con
tribute to the impor
tance that these blouses
have attained in the
fieid of woman's dress.
'a ne, laay of the hand
bag is wearing a blouse
of piain dark blue satin.
It is trimmed with a
shallow yoke of lighter
Look at the top
gjrdle in the ' row -to
the left, for instance.
It is . a ' soft liberty
satin, tied In two loose
loobs .and; caught by a. quaint paste buckle thafc Paris
thinks very smart indeed. Don't you think so,- too?
Below Is a drawing which shows what may tie done with
a Kffman scarf. Simply loop at the side, fasten by a steel
buckle (with only the tongue showing^ outside) ana let the
Tringed ends hang straight down, but evenly, so that one
Is about three inches below the other. . •
XeT* ecmes a girdle that ends in a big: rosette of quilled
satin, with a sajtin button in the center and a long tasseled
end caught by another button. The rosette Is worn at the
aide or at the back. These rosettes and cocardes are much
in favor, b>- the way. /-. •..'. '\u25a0_?\u25a0
See the black velvet girdle. That Is very smart Indeed
for wear with" tailored suits, its stiff, straight bow coming
directly at the back. The bow Is sewed tight so that it
cannot lose its shape, andthe girdle, which Is lined with
white satin, fastens by a row of hooks and eyes. ,
For* a white gown comes the cerise satin girdle, with Its
cut and shaped flower rosette. The girdle Is folded. twice,
so as to grvo pfenty oif wiath for the wired rosette, which
must yet not give the appearance of stiffness.
Finally, In the other row, come two tiiodish sashes'* The '
first is of white satin, with ends looped over a knot anil
falling for about three-quarte?s of their len-th '
where they, are knotted again. The very end is trimmed -
Sr^s -SS'iJiSSeS' «^1 -^oidery,in^icSJ;
modish indeed and with a black velvet skirt hem and
aleeve edgings is a good way. to disguise the remodeling of
last year's, evening gown. c oaellng of
Scarf-and Muff
/^TRAIGHT from Paris comes the idea
of a matched set that is less expen
*~s " si ye • than one " entirely of fur, and
- jret from th© points of utility, a/nd beauty : .
Is equally successful. 'A broad band of
blade end white striped velvet forms the
body, of the scarf. \; The central portion f
is cut-to fit the "shoulders with a cap«P>
-like perfection, arid the ends taper to,-,
graceful points, from jvhich hangs
\u25a0 deep *fringe. '"\u25a0//*. ''.': ' '.-'•
An inner band of black furls used to
outlined the [entire stole, 1 *; which is'possi-y
bly three yard? long. This fur is applied :
just . inside vthe edge, and a quilling, of
f eatin or mousseline Vofteris- the ! outer
line. ' '\u25a0 ' ', •_V ' '. ;." \u25a0'.:\u25a0\u25a0 ;,/,r. v;:'
With I this there , comes, a • muff,, large,
suppl* and fjatVV Striped velvet forms the ;
central.bano^,. on^each' slde'of ;which;is ;
V the fur," and broader puffing 1 , of velvet '[
makes the assurance "of size doubly sure..
. Quillings outline v. the t openings ; at", the
. sides. . ..\u25a0.,'-',/."' ; \u25a0.\u25a0•./,:\u25a0- ;:./ '.'\u25a0\u25a0'\u25a0''\u25a0'
Any. idea, can \u25a0]: be « out; along* •
these lines. > Indeed, there is^no.excuse -
tfor_,old-fashioned.»sets* toeing, kept r in
camphorated inactivityA; Bring: thenvout '
and- make- them join: forces:. with'Cvelvet
.or siik.^:The scarf /and- muff 'to? match \
are too good to be'missedl" -.;^ . " <\u25a0'.
blue satin— nattier coveTed in eas
ily stitched lines of soutache. Cuffs of
this -trimming; edge the three-quarterr
• length sleeves that are the favorite ex
tension of the bodice." Collars and sub
cuffs-are of lace. These are most sat
isfactory if made on a lawn or'batiste
lining, making fa change of guimpes
possible and lessening the'wear on lace
collars. " : • ; -
There is a great vogue for white
satin In Paris.- For women to whom'
colors .are not- becoming;' the soft
white silk is suggested for., afternoon
wear. The -second model shows white
silk with a military touch of dull sil
ver braid and buttons. These outline
the shoulder seam and form a shield
at the front. A tiny bow of black is
caught at the collar line, the long
ends reappearing at buttonholed slots
below the yoke. Braid and buttons
are used on the cuffs. Observe again
the undersleeves of lace to match the
Dull crepe de chine In a soft gray is
shown in combination with silver lace
and braid. A panel effect is shown, the
Velvet Bags
TTTHEN; you gather up the scraps
*lfy : . of your velvet afternoon dress,
' ™ " i don't throw tnem' away ! ,
Moke them -up .into 2 a sof 1 1 bag that
should be carried with the dress. It can
be square or round, and whatever other
material you \u25a0wish can be combined' with
it. A long. siikrcord,> or silver or gold if
you_ wish the I metallic i note, must be at
tached. This is thrown over the arm. \u25a0•\u25a0.-.
.; Beads, embroidery, ; ; little ; patches ; of
tapestry or. brocade < and \ braid , or. lace
are easy waya ; of - decorating the ' flat
upper, surface. \u25a0' , '. .-'..'-: '• - '\u0084-...': .:
' Just aa^ a -personal 'touch/? embroider
your : monogranMn a, -circle or diamond
down; in one • :' :-:>'>
_ Paris is * quite enthusiastic * over these
wags and America" promises to ; take ? up
the fashion. -; This I is- merely a hint : to
clever women.- " .- .
Gairieos Utilized
HUGE -cameo -of • former
f days -are. now once ; more brought
, I out for;' the 1 trimming^ of f dresses.
One . of the t latest ; < freaks' • is "ito * have i a
monster cameo within ' a f gilt frame ; and
a -circle of enamel in the • colori pre.vail
ing;inUhe gown.-^lfc is then-inserted as
a- buckle, in - the soft folds : of ; the girdle,
forming.' a -shield? in the center .r of "the
back, the front beinff? left plain.
disposition of silk buttons and cord at
each side being particularly chic. The
sleeves are" bell-shaped and button
trimmed." In; thia case white mousseline"*
forms the collar >a.nd yoke; a touch of
silver. - lace, is used to outline the
rounded top edge.
Black- and white are . given one more
opportunity, to join hands in the season's
modish alliance. The fourth idea shows
a white crepe de .chine blouse to, be
worn_ with a black velvet v sult. A
square yoke and straight bands for the
sleeves : are of' tucked black chiffon
or moussenne. " "A. collar and cuffs of
Irish lace are added, while six dull jet
Latest Fashion Notes From Paris
PARIS, Nov. 10.
IF YOU are fortunate you will
,\u25a0 flaunt a long fur coat at the ca
, lamity criers who insist that furs
will not supply the demana.
-Frenchwomen are very fond of snug
gling;under the long folds 01 fur, and
this season they are more enthusiastic
than ever. Sealskin or very good im
itations are in great demand. .Under
these long fur-coats little one-piece
frocks are worn. They are comfort
ably, short in length; and. are of vel
vet, light-weight clinging materials or
many combinations of fabrics.
Drecoll is showing some chic after
noon gowns for wear beneath the long
fur! coats. Prune and bright emerald
a >een charmeuse, black and white
combinations and striped velvets are
in order. One green model Is particu
larly easy to copy. It has a bodice of
dark green velvet made in bolero
style, and on the bottom ' of the short
skirt (a -little wider, if you please!)
there is a deep hem of velvet- The
WIRED ostrich ; plumes in two
*. shades, are among the'trimming
; novelties.
\u0084 Black and/, white \u25a0:\u25a0 is \u25a0by far the best
color, combination; but taupe, i violet and
Russian. V royal ': and ;• midnlerht blue are
also favorites. > , . '.\u25a0\u25a0.<;.'< - \u25a0'\u25a0•\u25a0« " "-.
; Red ; and -brown " are growing in favor,
fend the oolo'rs before mentioned are fre
quently relieved , by rose, /cerise and old
g01d..'.;; ;, \u25a0:t.: t . : \u0084..-v-.::..' \u25a0 -- : '-•"\u25a0«•\u25a0"'
Hats covered; with suede or undressed
kid < are" very {new ' and - pretty. . iThey, are
in-, white or color, often are semi trimmed
In . the ; same \ material . and . are combined
with -other', fabrics. _ " >"•
. Large^brimmedy hats, covered with
gold 'gauze and ; iace', are , very Ystriking.
The*! crown isVf ten 'puffed or. draped, and
an \edging,of : gold lace extend^ over the
brim. ' * ; . ; \ .;. '.',-•\u25a0 '•\u25a0';\u25a0' ' : 4
The trimming of - theseV gold hats is
simple— a '{ single**: rose . with > gold < gauze
\u25a0Collage or. a gold cord with tassela.
buttons are used on the front. If you
wish a touch of color yotr may use the
shaded enamel buttons that cost much,
but can be worn over and over again.
They come from | Paris and are really
pins to be adjusted where and when
you please. ;
If you have just a little piece of
material left after the coat and jacket
are made, use It as the next model
suggests. Over a foundation of all
over lace, cream or dyed to match the
fabric, build the blouse. A shield
shaped front should be" stitched and
applied as shown._ The two narrow
ends can button over the back portions.
sleeves are three-quarter length,
edged with a velvet band and outlined
at the shoulder line with velvet but
tons studded with dull opaque green
• -Suppose that madame cannot afford
a long fur coat? Do not despair. The
clever French salesman will bring out
for your criticism a long velvet one,
with perhaps a touch of fur at collar,
revers and cuffs. .The skirt will be
straight and scant; while the lining
will be almost too beautiful to hide.
Possibly he will shrug- his .shoulders
and say "Voila!" which js another
way of saying that It is yours, for,
indeed, these coats are Irresistible.
In evening gowns the latest thing is
the scarf train. A long, pointed train
Is carried over the arm in irraceful, old
time lines. . The Ney Soeurs are show-
Ing many of these 'rowp.s in their
rooms at the Place Vendome. A salmon
brocade model, very simply made, has
a high waist line outlined in silver
cord, a draped net bodice and a cord
for an -waging on the skirt. A loop in
this is skillfully wound over the arm.
giving attractive folds when carried
this way and making it very comfort
able for strollers. Indeed. It will be
fashionable ' for every gentleman at
least to be good-tempered at prome
Cogue feathers In white tipped with
colors are quite popular" on turbans.
Big black velvet shapes are either trim
med with plumes or with huge bows of
rnllan or Venetian lace. These are
worn In the evening.
There is a decided vogue for all an
tique laces.
The combination of two materials still
Is used by the majority of modistes.
With the black and white striped vel
vets there is generally used black or
white cloth. ; :1; :;
Velvet and Fur
OF ' INFINITE charm; "^.nd of un
doubtedly just as much' interest as
. millinery,- tur is a' subject of which
woman never tires. It is especially Im
portant in the discussion of allied fab
rics this season, for fashion has com
bined fur with velvet, and the effects are
'regal..; \u25a0 ; ' -';. ... "•'. -, "
There Is skunk fur that Is a very good
imitation of marten.- For trimming any
shades of velvet it Is very successful,
-for. the brown tones are harmonious on
Jighior dark shades.
"y Australian > possum Is another new
claimant for favor, and raccoon is : i v
, close rival. -Tailless" ermine is ; much in
demand .on -handsome gowns or hats of
velvetr*w^hile the' beautiful ; though per
l ishable chinchilla' vies with moleskin in
the gray sectloTx3Bggßßs>3tiKßßStSßß*p*&B&
,' Soarfs. muffs, wraps, gowns and hats
are ; successful • and - extremely lovely
when \u25a0 of velvet and : f ux-
The San Francisco Sunday Call
The sides are curved almost lik» th»
lines of a bolero and the coat sleeves
pieced out with lace. .Here is. the
chance to use an old lace waist!
Dark green liberty silk is used in the
last model. t Velvet outlines the yoke
that is cut in a modified line at th©
front over ecru lace. The buttons are of
dull silver, placed on each side of th»
front and on the outer edge of each
A silk waist from a little remnant Is
quite possible. The becorningness Is un
deniable. The sanction of Paris and
America is well deserved and the prac
tical modish garment's popularity is
assured. '
Many/ black velvet dresses arw trim
med with three different kinds of lmci
Gold and silver laces are frequently
combined on satin of delicate coloring*.
And a veritable shower of color alliance*
that sound startling, but are attractlv*^
in a bizarre fashion, are belnr dl*«
played. Red with purple, yetlow and
red. green and yellow, are a few ex
amples of the fearlessness of & f«w de
Many black velvet cloche-shaped
hats have racings of white satin and
bands of ermine.
Immense white hats are draped with
metal tissue over blue or rose. Thick
cords and tassels trim them.
If you have narrow bands of tar,
why not edge the lace bow for you*
evening hat?
Long black caracal coats hava wWtt
fox collars and cuffs. Indeed, th© suc
cess of black and white has been s»
decided that modistes are usln* •very^
means of continuing this color combi
nation! far into the season.
EL0133. 1
Fur Turbans
AT THE side of the velour hat»
many women are patting I—not&*1 — not&*
Perhaps a quill mad© of white kW
is more to your liking? Soft auede,
chamois or glazed kid will do, and
any old midrib of a «uni wiQ servs
for a central -vein around which you
can sew the long cut forms.
A gardenia of white kid xnada of
many round petals ia another Parisian
The cabochon of wooden bead* or of
metallic thread graces the turned-up
> brim of a beaver or felt.
Merely a silver or gold cord, as thick
as your little finger, is tied around.
3 the crown, with its two tasseled ends -
hanging over the brim.
A butterfly form of satin, of velvet.
(or of both, is placed on many velvet
turbans. i •
Feather disks, wheels or buckles ar©
used on felt or cloth turbans. ~
lyie two long quills that suggest
Robin Hood often appear on the high
crowned shapes.
Last of all. do not put too much
trimming on the side of your turban!
• -'With an old set of fur, a remnant at
new velvet and an eye for the becoming
lfne and color, any woman ought \p con
struct somethlng'to wear ia this s«aa»j
of combinations. - "/

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