The San Francisco call. [volume], November 27, 1910, Page 20, Image 20

About The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
Some New Jabots
IRISH lace, with Just a few stitches
in some delicate color— green or lav
ender, for Instance — to form a sort
cf rhadow outlining the lace design.
Tiny flowers embroidered in stiff rows
fo as to form a" pyramid, for aM the
iworld like some quaint Dutch garden.
Bright Pe/sian silk, with white tulle
or black chiffon draped over it In the
approved tunic style, and fastened down
by a narrow hem of the silk.
Pink or blue sat^i, twisted into tubu
lar Ehape and knotted so as to form a
latticework, with each Intersection
marked by a tiny ribbon rosebud.
Reading, white on black and black .on
white, so as to trace a conventional de
p!gn on the fabric, or in bright colors
wkh a gay Persian border. W
Minute beaded flowers, too, and minia
ture cabochons, holding In place the tie
ends of a lace Jabot; old rose on white
end green on blue are especially effect
ive
Common red and white toweling, with,
the red lines worked over in Bilk, and a
coarse crocheted edge of red and white,
the joining being made by a narrow
piping of red cllk. ( -^
Crocheting for Baby
THERE are many little things that
can be crocheted for & baby's use
that baby's mother will more than
«r>preclate.
There is the cover for the bottle, for
instance, a tightly fitting case, ending:
in a ribbon bow, which will help to keep
the baby's milk warm while carrying It
from place to place.
Then there is the rattle, which Is really
en embroidery hoop crocheted round
and round, and with spokes crocheted
ecross it. All around the hoop and at
the hub there are little bells, such as
those which, are used In children's horse
reins.
If you will use linen thread Instead of
wool, you can crochet also an extremely
pretty little bib, with a shell pattern
border and a ribbon drawstring In a
bow. Two crocheted tassels wJU fasten
the bib In back.
Crocheted bootees are another \u25a0wel
come gift, though they should be made
higher than is usual— quite up to the
baby's knees, in fact. Thus made, they
are as good as the old-fashioned ''brick
6toves" in cold weather.
THE FIGURED CREPE SC^RF
IT CAN be combined with Wack satin
and chiffon to form a • stunning
blouse, the scarf cut In bolero ef
fect, with the upper part of the sleeves
and the lower part of the bodice of the
eatln, and the black chiffon draped all
over it
It can be pleated as the facing of a
picture hat, the Persian printing being
especially effective. A border of galloon
or gimp defines the edge of the pleat
ing.
Two scarfs together can form a very
striking tunic extending in a slight
bib effect above . the girdle. At the
tides they are stitched together, and
bordered with plain-colored ribbon In
the predominating shade. ,
It can be trimmed with deep fringe
and the Eides caught by a Tew stitches
which will convert them into eleeves,
FOR THE INDUSTRIOUS NEEDLEWOMAN
Darning Stockings
IT IS a good plan, before using: it, to
hold darning wool for a"; minute or
two over the spout of a kettle of
boiling water, then let it dry. This
shrinks the -wool, and when the stock
ings are washed there is no fear of the
mended part shrinking or tearing away
from the surrounding parts.
Stockings will last much longer, too, if
darning wool is run through the toes and
heels before they are worn.
the whole appearing as a; remarkably I
pretty light evening wrap. ,' . . . , \
. It can be used as an applied hem '
on a lighter chiffon dress, slip-stitched*
or cat-stltched to the fabric or. with' its
outermost edge cut off and quilled.
It will make the very \u25a0; prettiest of
girdles, tying with; an obi bow, or with
a stiff rosette combined with metallic
lace edging. \u25a0
It will make pretty 'shirred ' sleeves on
an evening dress, since nothing is sup
posed to match nowadays, i" and colors .
can. be made to harmonize well enough
without being of the same fabric.
Finally, its separate figures/ cut out
and whipped with metal thread, .will •
make lovely ~ appliques for a : veiled'
blouse, especially if the colors be bright
and somewhat barbaric.
ADELAIDE BYRD
A HOLLY CENTERPIECE
For Pine Sofa Pillows
MOST of , us , have sofa : pillows so
pretty, of suoh delicate fabric and
hue, that we hate to put them "on
public view", at all,'; and yet there, is no
sense ; In keeping ; them ; always packed
away in camphor, / The proper solution
is the net covering:— net of the very fin
est quality, such' as is used ; for neck-
\u25a0 •wear. Two or; three [\u25a0] thicknesses; if
'necessary (though one ; is », preferable),
should be sewed over. the pillow. They
\u25a0wiir.not .at all . "obscure the, lines; and
color of the pillow, and -at , the same
1 time - will protect ,it \u25a0; from dust and
grease. As the white net" grows dirty
» remove it < and , apply fresh: - For.; a very .
• dark pillow -gray, browa ori even black i
might be used. ,
Cretonhe>Lampshades
THE) very newest and prettiest thing l
' in home dewration Is the' lamp-,
shade of shirred cretonne'or flow
ered silk. For, these, heavy wire frames;
are - purchased, the 1 round ; shape beingi
the \u25a0 best. The 'cretonne or, silk • is " then •
shirred itightly>under .^thls.r frame, and t
clamped or glued to it. =' A narrow border i
of furniture ginip V conceals ;% the v join-;
ing "place..",: : \u25a0•\u25a0 ' ;: -:; -'"W, :' : . .;-'- ; .V*^*'r'
In tapestry this variety, of lampshade
ibecomes really gorgeous. • The; idea, of -
'course/, can be applied* in' any; of these,
tnaterials to candleshades as .well. — "
HOLLY, in Its crisp, crackiy suggest-;
Iveness jof DecenrDer and gifts, \u25a0
Is >; here; . It has ;'. been^ twined
/around in a lovely wreath on' a
centerpiece for. you to work. • It. Is "a
delightful way to show your Christmas
thoughts in the always acceptable hand
made gift. For the library table, or for
the tabourette.or a3 an appropriate dolly
under a; Christmas plant, ' lt will shine'
forth* ln its attractive bright colors and
speak for you in an emphatic way. v
I would use tan lineiv for . this. Work
the stems in solid stem stitch, using soft
Folding Knife Case
EVERY one does not happen to pos
sess a case of cutlery, but most
people like to keep a second sot of
knives and forks for special occasions.
If care is not taken in storing them,
they easily become rusty, and the ivory
of the handles turns a bad color. •
A simple little case, which allows each
knife, big or. small,; to' be kept separate
from its neighbor, can be easily made at
home out of a broad piece of flannel,
serge or green baize. . Cut . the cloth
about two feet long, bind the, two -sides
with braid to match the color of -ma
terial and double one side overj length
ways till the edge ; reaches ' to • within a
few inches of the; other edge.;. Machine
stitch up the two styles >and bind S them
with braid. Then stitch down the double
part at equal distances, allowing -suf
ficient space • between .each row ; lor in
serting- a knife.' In this .way'ybu can
store any \ number' : and you ' will find
they .will keep Ih a perfect condition.
The case can be rolled up and packed
away, in a very little . space. .
Sewing 1 Miachine Hints
WHEN much machine , work Jj has
to be done; filling the shuttle Jls
1 a constant annoyance.? This can
be partly obviated byV threading V the
shuttle witlv finer cotton than "that used
on the needle. The sewing will- be
quite; as ; strong '; and the shuttle :wtll
not ; need; refilling' half -bo often; as; it
would if .threaded with 'the same • num
ber ; of ,; cotton :a3 'c tha . needle, .' because
the bobbin* will hold' a great deal more
, of the finer cotton.-.' < ' '\u25a0''\u25a0\u25a0 "•''\u25a0.'\u25a0'\u25a0"' : ''v^'> '•;! ;
\u25a0 If you- want 'your' sewing, machine to
do satisfactory % work, remember * that
it : needs to be kept cleans After ; every
ten' hours' work-. it. 'needs oil; but •\u25a0 all
surplus otlv-must-V be .\u25a0:« carefully /.wiped
off . afterward. .Always : work --- it . stead
ily, and never start or; slfcp with'a jerk.
.The best way, to ? finish; off >; a i machine
; seam : iis to turn ;f the -material .» round
andstltch backfor about an inch. This
saves tying the? ends of oot|pn,^whlch
Islannoylng work', and^ takes tup -a- good
deal of time if there '• are : majny * seams. ;
-
''"\u25a0' t brown \ mercerized^ cotton. When filling
In the leaves,- use green, thread and work
toward the central vein. The' turned r up
portions of, the, leaves should have a
touch of brighter green.
: Bright red for the clusters of berries
will do much for the entire design.
"Work them in solid padded stitches, and.
where .one overlaps another vary the
directions of, the stitches; the light Qn
\u25a0the: threads will;" show the separation
very clearly then. *
- Pad the edge and use buttonhole
Stitches' for the final work., This I
should work •with brown thread, and. if
. you possibly can, add an edge of ecru
* torchon or cluny. The points of the edgo
EMBROIDERED TRIFLES
NOW is the season when any novel
1 bit of embroidery is immediately
seized upon by the avid gift
giver. Here are a few ideas which may
be put into practical service. -\
A whisk broom holder, made of two
circles of cardboard covered with linen,
fastened with cord and .tied 'together at
the sides with' ribbon. At the back a
loop of cord or ribbon.
A shirtwaist case of linen or baby
flannel, worked in" eyelet, and outline
embroidery and large enough to hold a
' waist- 'folded in half. Light-colored
ribbon edges the case.
'. An opera bag of Irish linen, worked in
solid embroidery, with a line of beading
between the flower part of the bag and
the upper flap. this is drawn
a ribbon. drawstring ending in a rosette.
A linen hatpin holder, embroidered in
eyelet. . A double bow or ribbon holds it
together. Line with chamois.
A FEW GIFT IDEAS
SINCE black dress accessories are*
'so fashionable, why not, give your
friend r for " Christmas an " adjust
able set of black satin girdle, sailor
•collar and pleated cuffs? Or a sash,
with ball or knot ends, or fringed, and
a satin side frill with a lace edge? The
jV, possibilities of - these satin accessories
\ are endless— there is -the piping of Per
; elan, for Instance, or the tiny touch of
metallic lace— and they are always . ap
preciated by: the girl who must dress *
much on a little. . «
• Then there Is the boudoir or break
fast; cap, of lawn and lace, or with
lace-edged frills of net. In shape it
Is like the old nightcap or the still
older mobcap, but of course, it is much
more .ornate; and instead of fastening
under the chin with unbecoming strings
\u0084it is brought in at the side of the head
by a ribbon drawstring run through
beading and ending In a little flat ro
sette, that can 6e pinned in place. Or
narrow elastic may be run through
Ribbon Chrysanthemum
k VERY pretty gown seen ; recently
IA was of gray chiffon over soft silk,
-f^x. simply cut, and practically its only
ornament, besides a gold-colored silk
yoke with Chinese chrysanthemum em
broidery, an enormous ribbon chrysan
themum at the belt. Each, petal of the
flower was a strip of narrow ribbon,
with a triangular fold in the* middle of
it, that turned it over and gave a little
heavier pprtion to weigh it down. These
folds were ironed heavily into the rib
bon, and then the innumerable petals 1
were sewed in chrysanthemum shape at
the waist line with gold thread (the rib
bon itself was gold color)./ Nearly all
the petals were allowed to droop and fall
in the natural way,' only enough being
tacked back to give • the fluffy flower
effect. .. : ....••.-,-.
And that ribbon chrysanthemum made
ell the ; difference between simply a
charming gown and . a really stunning
gown. :
FOR A NURSERY APRON
T T 7 HAT . shall : I make for the little
W Sirl? You are ' probably asking
:»», this question even this early in
the holiday season: But la it early ? Less
than one month stands between you and
the : gift time. ; and now, if ever, you can
plan with greater .'ease "of mmd to give a
practical,;, pleasing apron to your little
daughter, niece or friend. ' '\u25a0'\u25a0 *."
The picture before - you shows the
'apron spread out. -Any woman can In
her mmd button the pointed naps in the
middle over; the^ shoulders of the little
glrl. c This adjustments makes the arm
hole and gives a crossed effect at the
back.' ; . / - . •' ! , . .'•;: ;.- . \u25a0
,Blue 'linen, is here suggested. One
width of the' conveniently wide linen will
suffice. Cut as the pattern is shown, the
outer straps extend just a f little -above
the two central ones. The yoko line can
be rounded as deep as you wish at tha
first' fitting. -y..'-. '\u25a0• \u25a0'. '''\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0'\u25a0:\u25a0 •
: \ After . you \. have decided on the shape
bind : the whole % with" white linen. Or
perhaps - y duV prefer.; tape; this ' latter is
procurable in all ;widiths and is quite'ln
expensive. \u25a0.' -; ; -, ; \u25a0\u25a0\u25a0."\u25a0" \u25a0 : ;'
Do riot forget the" pocket ! Little girls
}?? v * "them, and If I were you I'd put two
on a nursery apron, just for ffood meas
ure, you know. \u25a0. V : V, ; :-\u25a0-\u25a0. \u25a0\u25a0
\u25a0 Buttonholes must , be worked on the 1
; pointed : tabs .; with, linen thread; sew
bonejbuttons on the. others.
\u25a0 v Now^ f or the delightful I touch ! With
a pencil draw -the of two hens
and the" six babies along the lower edge.
Put two -at the i yoke, /eagerly hunting
' for -.worms, "I \u25a0; suppose.' , You ~J can get
the outline of -aV chicken from any ' ad
yertisement; or i pictorial book: If you
are ; . not 'an ,**artlst,"! > and trace", the
shape by means of carbon paper.
C|Fill ;^in - the body with (white * linen' or
worsted; ; using -'cross ' stitches. : \ Black
will allow a very easy adjustment of
lace. If you cannot get a lace dark
enough, boil a quantity in strong coffee,
rinse until the water runs clear and then
hang up to dry. Any shade I 3 possible
by this home method.
Some one' suggests that this holly de
sign will 'be beautiful if worked in white.
I agree. It could easily be done on white
linen with white mercerized cotton for a
centerpiece for tb,e dining table. If. you
like the colored effect, why not try one
for your own use? In this case use a
white' lace for the finishing edge, and
make the whole design one of snowy
effectiveness. " .
Whichever way you choose I promise a.
happy !result.
An hourglass workbag of china silk.
For the. bottom use. two cardboard cir
cles 7Vi Inches wide! Cover these with
silk on one side and with . silk stuffed
with . sachet-sprinkled cotton on the
other. .Cut a piece of silk 12 by 30
inches. Join this in a ring and gather
one end over an embroidery hoop five
inches in diameter. The lower edge
either gather or pleat, and sew^it se
curely to the wadded cardboard: then
overhand the second covered cardboard
to the first, covering the raw edges and
decorating with bowa of ribbon to
match. Close the bag by twisting tlia
upper ring and pushing down slightly.
A bar for shoehorn, buttonhook. «tc,
made by 'wrapping a email round stick
with ribbon. This narrow ribbon is
formed into a rosette of many loops
sufficient to make it quite full. One is
placed at each end of the stick with a
border ribbon stitched at the back of
each,* from which it hangs on the wall.
Brass screw hooks hold the implements.
the hem, and then the rosette can be
sewed, and the cap adjusted Immedi
ately.
. Finally, there is the separate petticoat
frill, either silk or lingerie, pleated or
fringed, and provided with buttonholes
to match the buttons on the founda
tion. One white and one black founda
tion and a half dozen or so of these
flounces would make a most acceptable
gift to your relative or intimate friend.
Silk Skirts
IF YOU want your silk skirt to re
tain its freshness, sew loops
under the* flounces and hang it
upsidedown when not in use. Hang
ing in this way, in the opposite direc
tion to that In which it Is worn, freshens
it and makes the frills stand out and
take a new lease -of life. "When frills
are left lying . flat they soon go into
holes
In the Closet
fpjHE clothes that hang In the closet
I or wardrobe from day to day with
•*•' out an airing, as so many of our
dresses for less usual occasions do,
should be well protected. The best
method is to wrap them first in blue
tissue paper— white tissue paper turns
white garments yellow — and then in a
calico bag • made a little longer and
wider than the dress and provided with
a tape drawstring. Sleeves, by the
way, should first be stuffed with tha
tissue paper.
To each drawstring attach a curtain
hook and then stretch strong twine or
tape from one end of the closet to the
other, nailing it fast. On this hook the
different bags. A curtain rod will *do as
well, but will take up more room. IDeli
cate gowns should be hung upon a coat
hanger before being encased In the .tis
sue paper. The calico bag, however, Is
the most Important part of the treat
ment.
or yellow should be , used for the legs
and to suggest the wing lines and
eyes.-'- ry : '"\u25a0'- ':-"'. : : ; \u25a0'-, \u25a0\u25a0\u25a0 '". -. -'
It\is very easy and -the work grows
with, quickness under fingers that are
•sewing for the love: of it.
Gray linen with yellow chicks is % a
fine; combination; tan worked, with
trolden " brown (and perhaps scarlet for
\u25a0
The San Francisco Sunday Call
ORNAMENTS
FOR HATS
r^DTPLJCITT la the keynote of ontins
W millinery thi3 season. First bay a
k-J becoming shape and trim, it with
an ornament of buttons, braid or beads,
and there you are! Perhaps you wish *
few bints about these ornaments?
There is first, and perhaps simplest,
the huge disk made of rows and rows ot
fringe. Use a circular piece* of muslin
for the foundation.' Turn "In the edga
and then sew on your fringe. Let a
hint be dropped: The upholstery de
partment of any large store is an excel
lent ground from which to pick rem
nants of good-looking fringe at aa low
as 5 cents a yard. Well, begin at the
outer edge and just keep on the circular
path until the center to reached. Cut
off the fringe and sew In the center •"
jeweled button. One clever woman has
used the heads of her hatpins for tlus
purpose, and the result Is stunnlaff.^
If fringe bo not your choice, • car*
about 'as thick as your little finger is
effective. Silk, gold or silver, irttb ft
tassel depending from tha center, la
good.
Kid ornaments are muck In TOgatt
From soft leather, preferably white,
petals can be cut. butterfly forms mada
over wire, and wings, cocardes- and disks
can bo fashioned. On black outing hats
these white ornaments are extremely
modish. They carry out th» black and
white idea that is prevalent In fashion's
world. There 13 an added practical point
that commends the. leather ornament*.
A watercolor touch can ba glr«a to
white kid whereby a gardenia e*a b«
changed to a camellia and so on.
Little breasts of many colors ar» nsw
on lons Quills o* velvet and placed at
the side of th» outing bat. Ribbon
pleated in fan-shaped rows is a TarT
simple decoration. This must ba backed
by stiff buckram covered with. silk-
As for the beaded ornaments, the field
fe so large that a few hints should poia*
the way to endless possibilities.
Silk-covered buckles, braided and
beaded, can be made by the amateur
milliner. Forms of metallic tissue, cor
ered with net and studded with bead**
are comparatively cheap whea mada at
home, while their cost at the shops Is)
alarming.
Lace over satin 1s used for tha boa
nets of the little tots. Rows and row».
ot cream or white narrow lace are gath
ered over a colored dl3k and placed at
the side of th» little cap. while a knot
of fur. auch as ermine or soft browa
fur. is made to nestle In among ruSea
of lace and velvet.
It Is the little touch of handwork that
gives to a hat a distinctive charm. An*
you. madam, can make nearly every or
nament for whloh you must pay a nisi
price abroad.
Evening Bags
NOT only for opera glasses do these
bags come, but also to hold sllp
pers, scarfa, extra handkerchiefs.^
powder— all the odds and ends that one
suddenly feels the need of at a dane»
or the theater.
Most of them are wonderfully bro
caded things, very stiff and elegant,
with a great deal of eld gold and old
Bilver lace. Many, Indeed, are entirely
of cloth of gold or gold tissue.
Others are of tapestry, showing quaint.
Watteau-like scenes; not necessarily
antiques, of course, but preferably so.
The scraps of your Indian ehawl left
Over after its transformation into an
evening cloak will make you one of
these bags to match; especially smart If
you string with glass beads the lens
Moire silk In the darker and richer'
shades Is used also, the lines of the
water weave being traced with gold or
copper thread. The- handles are oS
thick metallic cord to match.
The whole effect must be that of ri&h
ness and oriental splendor, to go withi
the barbaric garments that we are wear
ing this season. If possible, have a
metal frame fitted to your batr; other
wise, use drawing strings.
tne feet) is also a good suggestion. #
The apron Is quite like one of years '
ago. It is sensible and attractive and
appeals to the Innate love, of animals.
And besides, the Uttle girl enjoys
every moment that she wears It. a>
cut out a pattern ju3t for an experi
ment. You will be glad that you tried/
something new. ;f