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Fashion Notes From Paris PARIS. Nov. 17. AT THE Rit2, In the ever popular tearoom, yesterday was seen a stunning -walking costume of blue marine cloth, with deep .collar and cuffs of dark blue velvet A deep hem fof velvet trimmed the skirt. Two hog* •blue and white enameled button* fa» tened the short Jacket. Worn -with this was an ermine toque trimmed with two white wings. Doucet- is showing lovely evening gowns of soXt chiffon trimmed with fur. Bkunk. chinchilla, ermine and sable In bands that vary from one-half inch to •v«r a foot in width are used. White cloth trimmed -with skunk fur 1* being shown in coats for little glrlf. Black satin coats, heavily wadded, hvr* ing cravats of ermine, are told for the olfier children. ' Many little fur cravats consist of Just \u25a0tralght bands of fur edged on each •Ide with a Pierrot frlU of fine lace. S -.Flat, long scarfs vt yards long and quite wide) and axe usually trimmed with bands of fur or marabou. Black velvet combined with chinchilla .\u25a0 fur will be used for hats, gowns or . \u25a0 wraps. - For. evenings, sulphur yellow era fcroidered with crystals, gold satin with emeralds, black net and steel are the favorite schemes at Bechoff-David'a. Much art is shown in the drapery of th'» bodice. One characteristic is _ noticeable. Two materials of a draped bodice are so adjusted that one half is decidedly ' of' lace, for example, and the other of relvet, chiffon, etc. Some of the smartest coats for young tfrl» are of plaid, with huge revers and cuffs of plain serge or broadcloth. Many plain cloths are trimmed with fur or thick cords, that outline the revers, col : lars and cuffs. Carller is showing many little beaver hat* that are so supple that they fit the head closely without pins. They con "be folded flat when not worn. Their only decoration is round ornaments of beads or braid, or bright quills. They are to be worn with the tailored suit. The French, you know, are prone to name everything; therefore, one attract ive shape In dark blue with a scarlet velvet quill is called "Le Gamln.*> It la very popular and deserves the favor • bestowed upon it. ' Little top hats or caps of fur are mak ing great ".headway" 4n the.fashlonabls world. They are not built on frames, but can be pulled down over the head much, as little boys wear their angora cays in cold weather. Nearly every model is sold with a ecarf and muff to match. Large hats have very little trlmmlnr. Generally It Is placed upon the brims. It eeems that the larger the shape the •mailer Is the cocarde or rosette. The message is one of hope, for all that is necessary is to purchase a becoming chape. and in a - few minutes a hat li yours! -. . V Bechoff-David are showing smart princess dresses of veH'et, simply made, with huge collars of Venetian lace, edged with fur. falling over the shoulders. Skunk and black fox are favored. The vogue for bandeaux is never so apparent as on opera nights. Indeed, the ornamental band is an' integral part "of a gown these cays, and must be reck-^ cned with the cost of the dress. Jewels ere much used, either as embroidery on ji*t or gauze or strung on wire in true flllet fashion, with disks of jewels for clasps. Curls and a soft undulation are the chief points in hairdressing. The coiffure must be soft, fluffy and hinting of the Greek style. But fashion is kind, allowing great freedom of choice. There fore, woman w hairdressed, if the word may be coined, more beautifully than ever. ELOISE. > Lingerie Pointers TO ACCOMMODATE the new tight fitting styles, straight slips in princess and empire style are being worn. In combinations the three-piece style is also much seen. These combinations are In clinging materials, the finer ones being shown In chiffon cloth, voile ninon end lib erty satin. They are trimmed with both lace and hand embroidery. Petticoat? in walking length are in the very lightest and sheerest ma terials. Bticb as voile ninon, marqur 6ette. chiffon and net. Often they are deeply tucked and threaded with col ored ribbons, which appear at inter vals tiny bows. On the whole, however, the effect desired is that of having no petticoat at all, and so the less the underskirt is In evidence the better. HOW FUR I S USED ON MODERN NECKWEAR HAVE you an old strip of fur suf fering from disuse? Bring it out, xnadame. and then with an ell-seeing eye view the pieces of neckwear before you. On every one there is a touch of fur and every one shows how chic a little touch of mar ten or opossum or ermine can be. Fur is used on the majority, of neck piecei. Never mind If the lace be of Tailless Ermine f £ * LL the tails must be taken from l\ your ermine," said a furrier \u25a0*••*- the other das', "or. rather, they must not be put there in the first place." If you notice the \ r ery latest Impor tations you will and ~ that no black lines mar the smooth surface of an ermine stole or muff. What Is done FOR THE HOME DRESSMAKER BRAID-TRIMED DRESSES FOR AFTERNOON HERE is a delightful quartet of one-piece dresses for the after noon. Whether for the home or for wear beneath the long fur coat, these frocks are suggested to practical minds and hands, with an ac cent, mind you, on braid; for this is one of the means used in Paris to elaborate any lines (or to cover' up the piecing). Braid in every imaginable design and in any width is in vogue.. It isn't * exactly, the back numbered application of rows and rows of lines. It is an artful incorporation- with the general design that we can rely upon to gain an effective result. Look at the first frock. It is "a model in dark-gr*en serge trimmed with very narrow soutache. The guimpe is of ecru lace' with ; a tiny subyoke "in black satin. The surplice line of the bodice Is easily obtained by extend ing the front of a blouse pattern. This the filmiest quality; a little knot, strip or button of fur Is allied with it. Jabots, cravats, collars are trimmed with bands that' suggest clever ways to use odd pieces. The first sketch was shown at , a smart little shop in Paris, famous for its attractive dress accessories. The straight band was of skunk l*ur, while with the tails? ' Ah, that is , a very reasonable question. Well, they are used as a straight fringe at the bottom of a long scarf. ; 7 They are combined with: lace- «r beads to form ornaments for a hat. : Or they '-. are used to outline the yoke and sleeves of an evening : gown: Be: assured •that they are not thrown away; only, tail less ermine is the thing for this season. , dress is fastened in the back by a line of black satin buttons in a panel of soutache. The easiest line imaginable is used— seven : long loops and then the short ones. -By -basting a guide line there is .soon acquired a quickness and an accuracy that are gratifying, to say the least, j The : skirt of this frock' is braided In the same way in a deeper border. A \u25a0white satin band, one-half Inch in width, finishes the top of the collar. This is a new touch evident on many blouses. Beetroot red cashmere Is shown in the back view of the next model. Over all over silver lace the bodice is; cut V shaped at the upper line. Black braid five inches in width is need In thf e# rows on the skirt and a slightly narrower braiii on the kimono sleeves that fall over cuffs of lace to match the yoke. A girdle of black velvet . fastens at the back and drops In two ends at the left. The high waist line is' suggested, while two ruffles of cream lace were pleated and added In Pierrot style. A-bow of black velvet fastened this at the back. A lace collar for the coat, edged with fur, shows .the .very - latest idea. Heavy lace is cut .with either a round or square collar, at the. back and wide revers in front,- and; marten or a dark colored fur edges the* outer line. This THE MTTLE CLOSE vBONNEK VERSUS THE HIT rr\ HERE'S a mighty, struggle ; in. the ' I , millinery ; field. .The .little } close .'•*•\u25a0 bonnet J , ln\ its': various appealing forms is " naturally an outcome, of : the empire m odes. It has : a ; quaint curved brim ; and a large • puffed ) crown.x Velvet and fur, • or brocade and lace, .with i sim ple - trimmings \u25a0: of cord '• or f pretty. v bob bing plumes at th© : baclt,". are the allur a. pleat at the back of 'the skirt gives a llttie more .width, for which we maybe thankful. '• : : •. : ::\u25a0 \u25a0 ; . Dark navy-blue, serge is trimmed with a black sailor collar. > Note how cleverly the front of the collar is cut to suggest revers and to finish the yoke line. .-..The: bolero line is hinted at the front by a modified crossed effect.. Each strap but tons down over a belt of wide braid; the cuffs are trimmed withbraid and a very; ing "characteristics of the bonnet. \ ; But hearken to the .words? of wisdom; and experience: Only "youth; and beauty can wear a:* bonnet •of this i type! - :, The . rf, va ? \ is '. the hat "of enormous size. Its ; generous brini ; hides .deficiencies ; and; <sasts Va'- friendly shadow fover.T irregular features; v. This > type of . hatTcanlbe '-, sim ple, or -very -ornate and in this season of: wide band of braid heads a satin hem. Simple, isn't it? r :. ".-.'. ,v In the ;last ; model we' have mouse-col ored henrietta trimmed' with a darker, gray silk braid. The latter is applied m. tabs C overlapping on the left side of the skirt and on the rlght'of the bodice. A belt' and shaped cuffs use th« rest of your remnant, if; you have been* for tunate enough to pick up apiecea 'piece at a bargain sale. . The rounded top line has transforms ;. a perfectly plain suit of velvet or rough material into a dressy afternoon model. Milan ;or Venetian lace is favored. -A lace ; Jabot of soft yellow Is edged on each side of the straight central strip by bands of skunk -fur. Two ends, left; perhaps from an evening gown or wrap, '.will give this touch diverse opinions can be high or low crowned; . a , The brim of the large hat can be bent until the most becoming line is attained '-^surely/a ; message Tof .\u25a0\u25a0 hope I' to . all ! v- If the edge be' tool trying, ,1 a* softening ] line of ; f ur , can i be; added,-: and at any point you- may: place— anything!, "j;;; -"- .'i; ; Altogether it is ; a hopeful » outlook for every one. ", " , •<' > " a touch of black- velvet and the adjust able guimpe is of dark-gray net, with a heading- of pearl-gray satin. The braid solves the question of trim ming with great success. It Is virtu ally ready for the stitching, and. .by clever application the dress almost makes itself. From Paris comes this hejpful sugges tion. Are you going to take it? _ that Is decidedly of the season. ~ The flat collar Is. of chinchilla or opossum. The round edges are con tinued out to a square line with heavy lace. ; The entire form gives. a fine finish for a velvet suit. In this model the fur collar is lined. Last is; the cravat of ermine. The side fastening is under a supple bow. :-C:i - \u25a0 \u25a0 New Color Combination k COLOR combination that Is v ap- UL 'gearing with great- frequency on •^J>- gowns: and hats its that .of ; dark violet and red. The combination is -really beautiful, but it needs great care and keen appreciation of color effects to use it \u25a0' without clashing. • The ; "safest ' thing ; is to use , a graded series of reda. the darker ' tone* approaching a purple. . The San Francisco Sunday call Hints Anent the High Waist YOU have no doubt obrerved the r©* tuyi of the hish waist l.'r.e. Its ad vent has long been heralded tea these pages, and the success with whlchi it has met is not surprising to the wis» ones who remember two or three sea sons ago. The line that ia reminiscent of th» court of Napoleon is the salient feature in gowns for afternoon and evening and for home or street wear. But it must be worn only by these figures that ar* as graceful as that of the Empress Jose phine. The stout, stockily built womaa must eschew the glory of the high lln« and gathered skirtf If you stand a seemingly unhappy medium between th 9 .sylphlike form and the animated bar- Vel there i 3 hope. •//..-.-, To those who choose the high line with their eyes open and with, an unfalterin* truet in their superior beauty ther« comes a speedy and cruel revenge. But if the stylo Ije adopted with a knowledge of shortcomings, then there are many happy solutions. of being "In th© latest style" without appearing ridiculous. The baby waist, or the Kate Green away fashions, need not be the extrem* exploitation of the hish line. Why not wear a broad empire sash? When placed ' under the drooping supple revers and in corporated -with the rear of the bodic« this method gives the high line, but also, a slenderness at the waist. The latter effect Is quite easily secured if a darlc chad« of velvet or satin bd used— «ay. black or the very popular royal blue. 1 Then again the upper part of the- bodice can be extended in long panels or ends, brought down over th» suggested high line. Buckles of bead . work or of any of the wonderful metallic effects are excellent means of marking a high waist line and <rZ fcold-^ ing the long lines In plasa. Speaking of long lines brings & very important point to our notice. Take every opportunity to suggest long line* on bodice and skirt. Th© high wais* line will shorten the line of the blouae. therefore any opening of the gu!xnp« should be lengthened." A pointed or long effect is better than & round or square cut collar lice. The tunlo that drops from the nlffH /line should be long, reaching almost to ( the ground. Cords, sashes or trim ming are more effective If applied verti cally — so that any shortening tenden cies can be counteracted. ' Modified lines at the belt are always In good style. Plastrons at the center of :>±he girdle, from which, the raised line mounts toward the back, are easy to apply. A bolero suggestion, wita the back portion stitched dowo and the front line modified by cords, loops or motifs, is also good. Remember that the high line gives dignity If wisely worn, or It gives aa unattractive, ungraceful appearance if foolishly selected. It has returned with' renewed beauty and power, but It re mains in the hand of the dressmaker to make the most of i:. Leather Beits RED and blatk patent leather sr« . still popular, but dark colors ara gaining on. them. Black and gunmetal calf belts, plain or with pipings or trimmings of other leathers, are much seen. Green, navy blue, black.' white, red and tan are the leading colors In leather belts. ; \u25a0•> Morocco is being much worn, espe cially In buckles. Z-3~*~-~ Buckles are * principally long. dee» ovals and squares, longer than the belt and curved Inward. Black-and-white is much seen In pip ing . and button effects. • Fabrics combined with leather art •hown principally on girdle effects. Use of Plaid AS USUAL, plaid is being exploited largely in the fall fashions, and it really seems to have taken a greater hold than for some season* past. The plaid 3 used are extremely dark, and are seen chiefly In silk and part silk fabrics. They are being used' for separate | blouses and foundations. , appearing under sheer tunics. The Illuminating shades In thes» plaids are frequently dyed the sam» tone as . plain satins, thus facilitating the matching for trimmings. - t from which hang velvet ends ed^ed with fringe. No stiffening Is used, and a soft lining of china silk la given to the piece. Any of these can be fashioned at home. First save the pieces and then make them into the attractive acces sories hinted at before you. The well dressed Parisian !s reveling In them. A good red -to use for combination with violet or any other color contain ing blue, where a light effect is desired, is Ibis" red. a shade which in its lighter tints seeing to mingle cerise, coral and salmon. . Another good combination containing blue ;and red is that of Etna or light copper 'with navy, or midnight blue. This has becom* very popular, in Parisl and will probably bo so here. "\u25a0 \d