Newspaper Page Text
Plant Forms in
Embroider THAT sounds a bit out of season now. when December winds are blowing and December snow is falling; but even "under the snow" there are ever so many odd and pretty plant forms, and, indeed, other nature forms, that we never think of taking as mo tifs for our fancy work. Yet why not? I remember once writ ing an article on the less usual flowers as employed in embroidery; and I re member, too," how many women told me that my list was a revelation to them. Look out of your window even now; or, if you are a city dweller and not a suburbanite, take a walk to the nearest park or square. There is the plantain, which flourishes all winter: its broad, squat leaves and circular shape seem to bring doilies and centerpieces immediately to the mind on embroidery bent! The dandelion plant is even more effective, with its spike leaves and its row of brave blossoms, which epring up every little while even in the midst of winter. Our evergreens are among the loveli est bits of vegetation we have. The Japanese understand this,' when acrpss a picture they paint a pine bough and behind it the "pale-faced moon"—noth ing more. Can't you just see a lovely bit of embroidery done on that same principle: a clump of fir or hemlock, \u25a0with a bit of snow on the end of the branches and a brown cone further down? Later on. In the early spring, you will look for Indian pipes and bracken fern; now you will turn with new interest to the Christmasy holly and mistletoe, tseeing new possibilities in them for all the year round. The laurel and bay leaves that may be had at this time of year offer all sorts of suggestions also. And the very withered leaves that lie, brown and crumpled, at our feet become beautiful when the needle fixes them permanently upon the "purple and fine linen." » This is work that raises embroidery to the level of the old tapestries and makes of it again an art instead of a handicraft. What color combinations are not possible! And yet how lovely the work is In white and on white, with just the faintest touch of color, perhaps, to bring out a shadow or deepen a de pression! Moreover, there is the greatest choice in the variety of stitch used and the method of treatment. Heavy allover work, delicate outline, long-and-short, geedstitch— all have their place here, and you may take your pick of one or more. Even dress decoration may look to the plant forms for new ideas: a eklrt hem of the delicate bracken fern. for instance, or a thread-lace joke in mistletoe. Your model is the Important thing; like an artist, you must work from life, or at least from a photograph of life. Of course, if you really are an artist, in the narrower sense, and can draw your design from the plant itself, that is a different matter; but most of us will be content to photograph the plant and then work from the photograph. The other important thing is accurate measurement. Do not feel, however, that repeated designs must be exactly alike. A little symmetrical irregularity is the prerogative of nature. The best way to photograph the plants, by the way, is to put them against a background of black velvet. which reflects no light and shows plainly every point, every shadow and relief and delicate curve or curl. Green takes light in a photograph and seems almost white. If you will once try this form of em broidery, it will become almost an ob session with you— l know, for I have had the fever. It will certainly, as I said before of the wild flowers, make you more of a botanist and a lover of the open, and it will most assuredly make you more of an artist In the form your needlework will take. Snterlmtng MANY little annoyances incurred by the home dressmaker may be avoided by a judicious use of her great ally, interlining. There are the light evening dresses, for instance, which will not hang well because of their fllmsiness. This may be remedied by sewing within the hem or facing a strip of light flan nel or broadcloth, in a shade that will not show through and change the color of the dress. This will weight the skirt down without adding any superfluous bulk. Cloth and dark silk blouses should all have interlinlngs, some white wash material beine best for this pur pose. These should be loosely basted In, so that they can be removed with out trouble: and they will then serve the double purpose of protecting the underclothing from the waist and of assuring an always clean blouse lin ing. Linen collars are also benefited by interlining. I refer to the sewed-on collars and cuffs ot tailored shirt waists ; these should be made double and should have an Interlining of rrsuelin or linen, thoroughly shrunk. This will keep them in firm and in en upright position always. Purlap &uej ffTTANDSOMER than hooked, cro- J-— I cheted or woven rag rugs!" •*\u25a0 -*• This was the exclamation that sent the eyes of - all the club to Mrs. Brown's new burlap rug. And it really was a beauty. "It was really very easy," said little Mrs. Brown, with a pretty blush; "I just cut out a square of J ,''iß burlap the e!s> I Tranted, and then! drew on it with crayon a close design of scrolls and spirals. Then I threaded a.tap<» needle— a carpet needle will do or a mattress one —with rag rugs in two shades of blue. These etnps I cut half an inch wide and not too long, so that they should not get twisted. Across the width of the ru? l sewed these rags in stem stitch, with the rows Just as close together as possi ble. And that was all there was to it!" "Won't the burlap pucker?" asked anxious Mrs. Green. "Oh, no," said Mrs. Brown, "not If you are careful to work your stitches loose ly. That Is the secret of success in the making of your burlap rug." And that she had mastered her secret tpc all agreed. \u25a0_ v~ FOR THE INDUSTRIOUS NEEDLEWOMAN ELEVENTH HOUR SUGGESTIONS FOR GIFTS JUST one week before Christmas and you have hunted and hunted and have not found the little in expensive gifts down on your list Are you worrying? Never mind! Here are three suggestions for em broidery on little gifts, each one of which can be made in an evening. There's a square pincushion, for in stance, that can 'be embroidered, and with the back surface can be bound over a Bilk form that you can pur chase for a trifle. Work the flower forms in solid stitch and the leaves on each side of the " stem in the same way. The centers should be eyelet work and* the larger dots worked in the same way. PRESENTS FOR THE MEN fT^HERE are many little things which j may be made for men, and. which -^- will be really acceptable. Here are a few of them, now that "Christ mas is coining." Knitted cravats in his favorite color, In plain pattern or in fancy stripes. A knitted silk soarf 'or muffler for cold winter weather. The scarf, of course, is for wear with evening dress. A crocheted or ribbon watch fob with a hammered coin as ornament. The ring and the fob attachment may be pur chased at any jeweler's. Initialeri handkerchiefs or those marked with his monogram. Perhaps a plain border design may be added, especially in a silk -handkerchief. Laundry, collar and cuff or soiled handkerchief bags in tan linen.- with an embroidered or stenciled monogram. A leather tobacco pouch. Do not for get the initials which make it really. his! A knitted sweater ))r golf jacket, if you are looking for a really nice gift.. A match ; tray, . consisting of a glass saucer, covered with raffia, and with a raffia holder at the side for tho match box. ; - ADELAIDE BYRD \u25a0 - - . --- 1 For variety work the little half forms in each cornef* in eyelet work. This will * give ' a combination that i 3 ef fective, for through the openings the colored cushion will show ;. and tben, t<»o. there is relief for the eye and the hand of the worker. • Pad the scallops -and w-ork in but tonhole stitch. For the back the same square is used, with the slots for running the ribbon through. The central flower design, of course, j Is unnecessary; With colored ribbon- to match the foundation, this pln cxishlon is a charming gift for a friend. How. about a little bag for money or jewels? The useful holder is shown in, A ; roll of narrow white tape, with his autograph worked in black wash silk, for sewing ' on underwear, -etc. A triangular bookmark made of -two pieces of thin cardboard,' covered with silk and- lined with chamois and then sewed -together, so. that the .leaf can ba slipped between and'the book closed. A burlap case for J. playing cards, chamois : lined and bound with metallic upholsterer's glrnp. Glove fasteners hold the ; pocket shut. * j ' An embroidery hoop, . the lower half \u25a0 wound . with . ribbon for a.• tie-holder, the upper, half covered. with cretonne stuffed with . cotton for a tiepin \ cushion. ' A coat hanger, covered with chamois and with."cotton-stuffed;pads at the ends for the shoulders of the coat. A combined penwiper, and paperweight, being a flat * stone or .= piece of; wood coy- ' ered with burlap,; and theni half a 'dozen leaves of chamois : held : to -it by : a strip of furniture gimp sewed all; around,' A trai-eling tie and : handkerchief case: pockets for. the handkerchiefs and:straps for i the ' ties to \u25a0 go ; under.fe ,The i outside is • •burlap.'- 1 -. the lining' linen, > and t there i is cardboard .between.; Glove fasteners again ; effect ; a closing. the ! finished sketch buttoned down, se curely and suspended on a ribbon that is tied around the neck or to the; inside of the corset. The' plain portion is the back. The • whole should ' be -of \u25a0 me dium-weight linen. Pad the ecallops jf or tfje ilAbib. A baby pillow. A carriage cover. A pair of linen bootees. • A lawn or nainsook "gown.;/ An underskirt with a linen body. Tiny white silk! socks'*, or-stockings.- ' A veil, for winter 'weather. White or pink or blue mittens for the same season.' \u25a0 \u25a0 \u25a0'\u25a0\u25a0.-/ -': ' ~-f~---^,. '*?l&!sg&§i All ; of 4 these embroidered or knitted or crocheted or somehow done-by; hand for love of; the; baby. - Itnen HEAVY fabrics, 'linen 'especially, are very hard \ to se i w~ even', when i they are new." ', Any' one :\u25a0 who " has done much hemming •••'of ';, napkins^ towels and tablecloths does not .need to be* told this. This stiffness; may be^overcome v and \ the work m ade' much : easier .by' keeping at your side -J a ;; glass of I warm 'i water • and dipping, your; ringers: into it as you'work. The linen-lsithenisoftened. : -.' :\u25a0\u25a0-:\u25a0.\u25a0 and work in buttonhole stitch. . Now, when doing the top of the little bag, allow for - a hem on the' upper edge. Work the scallops, as usual and the little forget-ma-nots in either white mer cerized cotton or white, and blue. Work THREE CHRISTMAS GIFTS DOWN south, "befo\ de wah" the .darkies used to gather on: Chris t...; mas i morning and \u25a0".; plead to each member of the. family, "Christmas gif , massa! Christmas : gif, miss!" Nowa days"our friends and. relatives some times' seem to "\u25a0\u25a0 utter ';.' the same words, in effect., all December.; Here are. three bright \u25a0 ideas: -the first for? Sister -Dolly, the second for. Aunt Jane and the third f or^Greataunt Eliza.. , • . Of three smair gray chamois skins, cut two in ' the shape of [ a bag, 6x6 ' inches, , and the pieces exactly; alike. The cor ners must be* rounded>. Machine-stitch these \u25a0 together, ; with '.i the J two : top edges left. open. -Around this .top cut a row of eyelets \u25a0< large enough ;to hold No. 2 rib bon ; from '\u25a0• the- third '\u25a0' skin cut '\u25a0 a : circle the f. usual ;; size : f or> a -j face /chamois. VAs before, .run- eyelets and ribbon- through this ;'. also. From > the j pieces left / from the third skin (cut carefully!) : : make still a third bag exactly- like the others. In 3 this : place *f the *\u25a0. powder.. >y Thus ;\u25a0 your .triple 'bag: is \! 'always ready." > \u25a0-\u25a0-\u25a0;..' . ' Get'apair.of lamb's-wool: slipper' soles, such*; as i thoselused* for sllp . pers. '\u25a0*; Gather ,v, v three-Inch! ribbon *- on \ one edge * and . sew.' its tol the •; soles. "Do j this by tturningithe> ribbon* wrongs side = out and ibackstitching^around^the; sole > and [ then * turning i the ; ribbon > over/is Hem '- the tODiorJshlrriit'over.elasticiandlruniin'a a buttonhole in the flap of the first piece, attach a button to the last made disk and sew the two parts together along the inner edgee of the scallops. Just at the bend of the back p>?.rt, shown by a dotted line, sew a narrow, strong white ribbon or linen tape. If the little, carrier be for jewels, a chamois lining should be cut, the two sides buttonholed together and the little pocket slipped in, but not attached. The long design is a new idea for a hatpin holder. It Is the. upper surface. There is another piece -exactly like the top in shape, and two bnttortholed slots. The two pieces are stitched together and ribbon is run through the holes at the top. holding a glass test-tube inside. The latter costs 5 cents for one of me dium size. Work the flower clusters in solid stitch and let the chain of little dots and the three lines of ovals be eyelet work. Pad the scallops and work In buttonhole stitch. Run white or. colored ribbon through the slots. If you wish you can give this dainty thing with a pretty hatpin In the holder. Here are three ways to help you out in. the last week of perplexity. And re member, that, after all, the gift with a .little of the giver's loving work in it la doubly appreciated. ribbon dra-r-strtng. Here is a pair of pretty and useful ribbon slippers. Get : a candy box (of coursa, I mssn get as many candy boxes as you hava candy-loving friends and relatives) and cover, it with flowered . silk, sewing in place at- the corners. Cut about an eighth of an inch -too long at top and bottom ; and ' paste neatly down with library paste. Over the bottom of the box paste a piece of glazed white paper, cut so that Just a border of -the silk shows .-all -around. Do the same at the top, lining .with the glased paper. Then fill the : box with homemade candy — and there 'you are! ©fie Stem g>tttcfj STEM STITCH may, be embroidered on the 'machine': as well as .by hand. I Here, is the method followed: Sev/-: with i father, a short stitch along the stamped, lines. Be -sure: to follow pattern- directly. Then thread a needle with embroidery silk and' pass the needle and; thread,: eye first, under each stitch. Keep on^ the upper \u25a0• side of the material. If- it >\u25a0 is - thin : , fabric, put paper under neath i before working. 1 AThis -i method » results in a well-raised cord r that is in. much quicker time 'than by t hand '- embroidery, \ and is, besides,- quite i as -effective. 1 ' \u25a0 The San Francisco Sunday Call WHAT IS MEANT BY KNITTING TERMS WOMEN often write to me to know what is meant by the terms used in directions for knitting. It 13 for these of my readers and for others similarly placed that I print tho follow ing explanations: Casting on stitches— Mako a loop in the yarn and slip it on a needle; next slip the second needle into the loop, throw the yarn around it. draw It through and clip the loop then formed to the left-hand needle, which ia thrust through It from front to back. Into tha second loop put the right-hand needle, make another loop and slip in on tha left-hand needle, and repeat to the re quired number of stitches. Knitting- plain— Cast on the number of stitches required, and insert ths right-hand needle into the first stitch; throw the yarn over, and draw It through to form a loop. Repeat for all the stitches on tha left-hand needle. * Seaming- or purling— Throw the yarn from its usual position at tha back o&. the work to one in front of the right hand needle; then insert the point of this needle under the next stitch* thrusting- it through from right to lefu Instead of as in knitting" plain. The right-hand needle 13 now ia front of the left-hand one; then throw the thread around tha right-hand needle, the same as in plain knit* tins; but draw tha loop backward in stead of forward. Purl as many stitches as required, and then throw the yarn back of tha needle again. Slipping- a stitch— Slip from tho left hand to the right-hand needle, with out knitting" the stitch. Increasing- or making a stitch— Knit one and purl one in the same stitch, or throw tha yarn in front of tha needle and knit plain. Decreasing- or narrowlnff a Btltch— Knit two stitches together as ona. Binding off stitches— Slip one. knit one; with the left-hand needle draw the one slipped stitch over tha knitted one. Continue slipping the first stitch over the last knitted stitch until there Is only one stitch left on tho needle; break off the yarn and dra*ar it through this last stitch. . - hatpins anb S)airpins THERE are all sorts of cushions and holders now mads for holding those two necessities of feminine life, hatpins and, hairpins. Many of these can bo made at home for Christ mas gifts. V There is the hatpin cushion, which, la really an elongated pincushion, mada of soft plush and padded over a basket or cardboard ring covered with damaak and bordered with gimp or galloon. Then there !s the combined hatpin aci, hatholder, which is really a cushion cf the sort just described with a cre-j tonne-covered stick fastened to its back and surmounted by a padded circle of wool or heavy cardboard. On tW3 th 3 bat is placed. _ , % The hatpin box may be fa3hioned from a 'glove box. It is covered outside with ribbon and lace and artificial flowers (padding with sachet-sprinkled cotton is a pretty touch), and the bottom of the box Inside 13 divided into compartments either by wire spiral fastened lrrto it or by velvet-coy/red cardboard divisions like those in boxes for silverware. Hairpins .also have their cushions nowadays. They are very much lika small, round pincushion?, and so any variety of style is permissible. Tha novelty. -- however, consists in tha cushion tops, which may be of light bur lap, net or a kindred wide-meshed ma terial (on© I saw recently wa3 really a wire strainer ever thin silk, with its binding concealed by a lace Tuffle) ; and in the stuffing, which must be very loose and yet compact, bran or cotton wa3t« is best. Finally there is the -crocheted hair pin holder, consisting of many crocheted loops, in the style of children's horaa leins. on which the hairpins are hung. One pretty holder of the sort shows a doll's head for the top. A pink ribbon bow is tied under her chin to fastea her v lace cap. and Incidentally to con-> teal the fasteninc: ateo of the dozen or^ so long loops of pink crochet yarn. Jfur ®imc NOW that fur season Is again upon us, there are many of us who have fur garments we will not trust to professional renovating^ Hero are a few hints which will provo useful: Cut fur always from the skin side, and ivlth s. knife, not a pair of scis sors. Cut the skin through and th« fur will come apart of itself. When you are piecing the fur. ba sure to fit it so that the fur runs in the same direction on both pieces. You can tell this in thick fur, where it is not easily visible, by brushing or rubbing the fur and seeing in whlcH direction the hairs lie. Sew fur not by seaming, which makes an ugly ridge, but by overcast ing with a heavy thread which has been previously rubbed with shoe maker's "wax. Furs may be washed in a suds of lukewarm water and white caatila soap. Shake the fur upside down in the suds, being careful not to rub with the soap itself. Dry by fasten* ing on a board, fur side down an<l well stretched, after rinsing- two or three times in clear, cold water. White furs may be washed in tho same way a3 the above, but a little washing ammonia should be added to the soap and water. Thl3 keeps the fur, whi te acd makes it fluffy. » Never try to brush fur to clean it; long-haired furs, however, may b« combed out with a coarse eomlv Muffs should be shaken out befW£ using- them/ Never hold a muff cf-Jss to your body; it wears the fur oat in time. k '