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The San Francisco call. (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, January 08, 1911, Image 18

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In Our Italian Kitchen
"Sent our roasts out to t]je nearest
* ' ■ ■■'■'..- '■"■
IF I had : i make my choice ween
French and Italiap cookery, I be
lieve l would decide in" preference
of Italian. ,
I do not speak without much experi
ence. Housekeeping In Paris gave me
an acquaintance with French cooking
on Its native heath; three winters or
keeping house in Italy made me fa
miliar with all the ins and outs of the*
Italian cuisine. My judgment is that the
latter is more appetizing, more savory
eve than the cookery of France, and
has certain qualities which make it
more worthy of Imitation by the Ameri
can housekeeper than the far-famed—
and justly famed—French cooking. It i*
also no less economical, and presents aa
many ways of. making common dishes
uncommon andgood.
The triumphs of the Italian cook are
achieved 'under- no more favorable cir
cumstances than thoae won In France.
The kitchen is as small in one place as
the other. There was a family re
semblance between all three of those
over which I presided in the cour?e of
my Italian housekeeping.
All three kitchens had stone floors,
or at least floor* laid with a sort of
yellow hrown brick, extremely difficult
to ike neat In appearance. None or
the three had any water arrangements
beyond a very ordinary sink and a cold
water taj*. In each kitchen the range
y^ECA USE of the enormous
JK number 0/ letters sent to the
K.rrhanije. I must oak con
tributors to limit their communi
cations to otic hundred words, ex
cept in cases of formulas ■rec
ipes which require greater space.
I want ail mi/ correspondents to
have a thawing in the Corner,
ami if my request in'this respect
is complied with it will be possi
ble to print mans more letter*.
English Plum Pudding
REPLIES to the request for the for
mula for "Genuine English Plum
Pudding"' have. been .so generous
that I have the "embarrassment of
riches" said to be not far removed from
the barrier of poverty. After due de
liberation, I select from the heap before
me two recipes] both of which claim
British ; birth.
English Plum Pudding
This Is copied from an old Engl cook
book which has been In my father's family
for over SOO years. . •- ■■
As the daugnter of an Englishman. I
could not but fee.' Indignant when I read
»'f mixing potatoes and carrots with plum
pudding—the name that brings up the pic
ture of my girlhood's home at Chi islmas
tide, with the plum calses made far ahead
cf the holidays, and on the eventful day
the p!vm pudding, ill ablase,' as it was
terved br the hands of the beloved i mother,
now gone from earth. ,Do you marvel that
I come to the rescue, with my * ancient
Three beaten eggs. **; pint of milk 1
ounces of sugar, rubbed smooth With ',
saltspoonful of * grated nutmeg. Stir into
the eggs ami milk, add 4-.ounces of gifted
flour, and beat In 7 ounces of finely pow
dered suet, with' 3 nun..:.-, of breadcrumbs
and \ t pound of chopped raisins
Mix welt and let, stand for half an
hc*,*T* Vi is u -I? 3/ ' bak-"d in buttered
molds. If boiled, three hours arts neces
sary. ±/&t*ih»sjßtonfam!tf£faetm)>», •
The above may be put under the toast
end .baked as Yorkshire pudding. . If this
Is dsjpe. add half a pint of milk to the mix
ture, roll • ill two Inches t*"lfk nnd ha!«e
, two. hours. .. - *U B. .(Philadelphia).
The idea of a sweetened Yorkshire
puatjlng Is novel; to me. Yet we bow re
spectfully to the ancient authority * that
Vouches for the recipe. ""* .. .■■
Genuine English; Plum Pudding'
Six. ounces of suet, chopped fine; « oiAices
of Malaga raisins,.chopped-and stoned- s
ounces of currants, washed well an picked
over .carefully; 3 ounces .if breadcrumbs
and;J of sifted flour; 1-* of a grated nut
meg. 3 eggs, a small blade of mace and the
same of stick cinnamon powdered: •/. tea
spoonful of salt, H pint of milk. 4 ounces
of sugar., 1. ounce of candied lemon, i„
ounce of candied citron. , -*■:
Beat eggs, sugar-and spices welt tn,
gether: ■* add the milk and - the«rest of the
Ingredients. Lip a closely woven cloth la
"Produced delicious dishes with the rude means at her command."
or cool.stove consisted of a construction
more or less Uk a flat-topped tomb
stone of what some one has called
"the picnic-table, variety," with round
holes in it for burning charcoal. In one
we had an oven, and this was consid
ered a great luxury. In the other
apartments we either roasted in a pot
set on top of the charcoal, or sent our
roasts out to the nearest, bakery, in'the
local fashion. ■..'..
The fuel was invariably charcoal,
kindled with-great pains and; vigorous
use of a pasteboard or straw fan. Said
fan is a3 much-a nart of the emslpment
of an" Italian kitchm aa a stovelifter 19
on an American, range. Without con
stant fanning the charcoal*.would not
ignite properly, ar.d strenuous action is
boiling water: wring It: flour the inside
silently; tie ud the ntAldins* in it put'it
Into a. kettle containing six ovarts ot bull
ing water. Ketp a'supply of boiling water
In a kettle nearby,to replenish that In the
I adding t*ot. i.' needed. It the water reuse
*••> boil the tuddlus will bo 'heavy.-- Bull six
a tablespo-jnful of treacle (molasses) may
be aud-ju to make the * pudding a darker
cclsr. ENGLISHWOMAN > (Chicago). -.
Your directions as to the bag. and, the
omission of these in the termer formula,
remind us of the old story of the ship's
cook who undertook to get up a Christ
mas dinner:foe some homeward-
Anglo-Indians. The cook was a.Hindu,
but spoke and read English! no well that
the ladles of the party had no misgiv
ings as to his ability to follow the recipe
written down by one of.them from mem
ory of her own home fare. - Like the
compiler of the ancient cookbook from
which we have had an extract, the Eng
lishwoman taoic'too, much'for granted in
her pupil, and said never a word of the
padding-tag. Tho mammoth puddin?
was boj;ed in the, ship's copper and'
served .in an.immense howl; it was
soup.. •---.,.,, .-.-..
--floral: In preparing a recipe assume
that you are instructing novice*. ,
Com Relish
r.ni!I <"v ,' t, *?*" have the frecipe for corn
-T**'!* 1 or salad which appeared in trie Ei
■ ?,M t.h»'f:"' months a s <>. If you have
'•■a.c .turn oue recipe, for v. let mo have all.
Miss E. C. (Wei ar.d. On;. >. .
You guppose'd thut you were sending
In the request in-season to ure green'
corn from your field or Harden in mak
ing the "relish." We prefer that name.
The preparation ; b more like ; a pickle■
than a salad. Instead of laying the ap
plication , aside, as 1> am doing with in
qu/ , for wl,d cherry phosphate," daisy
and dandelion wine and mixed pickles,
until.- next' year. I;take pleasure sln in
forming you that canned tern may be
substituted for the fresh in.the following
formula, and with satisfactory results-
A dozen ears of, corn (or 4 cans), 3 me
dium-sized onions, i bunch 1 0 celery. 1
small head of cabbage, 3 green peppers
(or l red), 3 tablespoonfuls of salt 3
ptnts_ of cider - vinegar,,. V.i pounds
or brown sugar. : i heaping tea
spoonfuls of. English mustard. .Chop
the cabbage\ and .onions; s mince th*
celery, with v a sharp knife; cut the
corn from the cob and mince fine. If
you. use the canned \ earn, drain i drvlbe
*°r„e chopping. Put all the Ingredients
except the mustard: Into < a porcelaln-
Ilned or a nickel-steel-plated . kettle
end boil . steadily twenty minutes,
uissolvethe mustardfln little vine-
F«ssi and, aild lt three minutes before
taking the kettle from the;fire;- -■■„.■•
hr,fOUr» t *nlo.,*f l? B* jars and * seal ""'hue
*2h.'-' It will keep for months In a
ripening Plac«.'and,be better for the
ripenin p* l, -^ ■■, *-■. - r .
♦1,. co",,"*'*«d heartily an.l intelligently
this delightful,-condiment to house
resorted, to by Italian -MX>ks when the
queen of the American kitchen would
pour on kerosene or, cram in kindling
to hurry the low lire to more force.
The ordinary cook to whom we house
keepers in this country are accuitomef
would take boundless credit to herself
she managed to, boll a potato and cook
a bit of bacon in theee circumstances,
but the chef of my. Florentine culinary
department produced delicious and
savory dishes with the rude means at
her command, and seemed to take for
granted all the hindrances we would
consider intolerable. To the latest day
of my Italian domestic experience I
never became entirely accustomed to
the appetizing courses my cook served
to me from such unproplUbus surround
to**Vv. . ..-•
There is a common impression that
Italian cookery must all swim in oil
and reek "of garlic. Often I have won
dered how that impression originated.
Both oil and; garlic were used In cook
ing, but the suspicion of the latter was
never strong enough to be offensive,
while oil was so used that it produced
no more greasiness than T butter would
ff employed in corresponding manner.
Certain dishes "prepared for us by my
various. Italian cooks live gratefully in
my memory. Never until I return' to
Italy shall I eat such lamb .as * warn.
served to us there. The aavorlhess and
flavor . might have been partially ac
counted for by the fact that the "meat
was really a potroa cooked in a
covered saucepan over the fire, and with
hot coals heaped on. the metal top of the
pot to brown the upper surface el the
meat; but I"am Inclined to think there
was more in It than that, and that.part
of the virtue resided In the, beast itself—
the way it was fed or killed, or some
thing of the sort. tatever the cause,
roust lamb was '.the- moat satisfactory
meat." ever served to us in Italy. where
all the meat was good.
Risotto was ajso a ■•mo favorite with
us. This was practically a daily dish.
taking the place on our table held by
potatoes" in some form In the Anteri
keepers who failed to put up a boon-,
tiful supply of pickles and relishes
last summer and now regret tho ■mis
sion of -them from'the family bill of
' \- J Protest
• May I «ay a word to i the Jtarrlsburs,
housemother who -(links that flP*> per month
Is n"t too much to live on and to pay on?'» \
debts? What would . she Bay It ■ she" wet-e -
1 a mv place - and had but %Mi a - month ■on •
which, to nip-port i family of tour and to
pay our debts with We have. good, sub
stantial food/ too: lots of potatoes ami boiled
meat and dumpling.*.and good, wholesome
t--e*>4 in \i batter—no cleomag-trine.. either!
• Such letters make me : tired I -■. Those who
lid*. uientv and to spare don't know what'
it la to do without some tilings they would
like ever so much to have. .1 have a boy
who has tuberculosis, to look after.: And I
don't ark for or receive charity; . ■••
I have said more'fun T ■ meant; to say.
■-/.-■■ A MOTHER (Monaca, Pa.).
This is Liberty Corner for house
mothers of ■ every creed and of > -jvery
shade of opinion, . will you suffer me to
remind you urgently that' every thing '■ in
the discussion of this vital* subject de
pends; upon the standpoint from which
the ; writer view* It? .What would be
poverty- and * privation to one family
would be comfort to another. One man
calls that wealth which to hlsnelgh
bJi- but' a decent competence. And
prices vary widely in different sections
of this our;common country/* r could
set a" lavish table In Tennessee for, wha;
would Just suffice to provide plain,
wholesome food In New York city. *-■''*•■■*- -c
Candied Figs
The following Is submitted to your/Cali
fornia correspondent in answer to her in
quiry as to candied figs:
How to Candy Pigs' .
Carefully jpeel plump, unripe figs and drop
them into strong limewater. to make them
firm and to eliminate the acrid Mllkiness of
semlripe-flgs.c ,
: Make, a thin, clarified syrup of half a pint
of sugar to a pint of water, and with! this
cover the fig?. . Add any flavor' you s like *
si eh as whole ginger toot or. sliced !lemon
or, stick cinnamon. !^Boil slowly-until'the
ng3 are clear. To each pint Of the-thin
syrup add another half pint of sugar. 801 l
the figs in this until the syrup canaies. Re
move tho figs .with < a skimmer and spread
•'f°n a dish in the oven or in the hot sun.
koii m granulated sugar and pack In candy
boxes or tins, ; with oiled paper between the
layers.- ..-,..■ ..■■.-.. -o -,- » „ „,■-■- ,■<,•■...,
Almost any email fruit may be candied by
Ih.s recipe. All. will be delicious. -
, Dublin Stew'
Disjoint a squirrel or rabbit: dip in flour
ana>iry in hot lard in which you have fried
an or lon cut line, peel. sis large * tomatoes
? r V B?^**'Quart of.canned tomatoes);-peel
iiL I' » Potatoes and break . small half - a
pound of macaroni;.have idv a few slices
of cooked bacon or ham. some beef - stock
ilVs. tw? <iuart'* of hot water, seasoning
2.1.11 ?^* - „rui .■P'IF'M'.• You miv ■ ;'«" this
while the squirrel Is frying. r- Mix all to
gether-and stew until tne Ingredients are
thoroughly done. Thicken th* gravy with
"Occasionally one gets a glimpse of it in an Italian quarter."
can household. ,-. The cookery of the
dish was begun by frying a sliced onion
brown in a tablespoonful of butter or
of olive oil. The preference of the gen
uine Italian was, of course,; for the oil.
and we soon came to like the slight
nutty flavor it gave to, the dish better
than that of the cooked butter. When
the onion was soft and brown, a pint
of hot water was added to it, and a cup
ful of rice, which Vil(1 been washed and
picked over. The dish was never made
with rice which had been already
cooked. The rice was boiled in the
water until .soft, more water being
added if there was danger of the dish
becoming too "dry before the rice was
done. While, It cooked, a cupful of
stewed . tomatoes was made "■ hot and
freed from lumps. The tiny round red
tomatoes are essential in all Italian
cookery, and a handful of them is al
ways Included In the daily marketing.
The pulp and the liquid of the tomatoes
are both used, but the lumps "were
rubbed out and a t-..spoonful of sugar
was stirred Into them. - After the rice
was -■oft it was salted *to taste, the
tomato was poured over It and well
mixed, and then the contents of the
saucepan were turned i Into a hot dish
and sprinkled "with" a tablespoonful of
grated,parmesan cheese. .
"Of-' course, macaroni in one of its
many ; forms was | always served as one
vegetable. Here we have, little idea of
how large a, variety of, macaroni may
be found, although occasionally one gets
a glltnpse of it in a (shop in an Italian
quarter of the town. -In".Rome and
Florence, however, .we used to take an
Infantile joy in having a" succession of
different kinds. It might "be purchased
in the ordinary pipe macaroni, or as the
smaller spaghetti, or, as the still -finer
vermicelli. But it was also sold in flat
ribbon-like form and In' disks and
squares and diamonds and rounds, and
in a umber of other shapes- all good.
I do, not recollect >* ever eating' maca
roni cooked in Italy"in" the way it is
most frequently seen on American ta
bles^-with \ cheese*- over it and baked.
Our favorite fashion was simple, but
extremely good. A ' half pound 'of it
was cooked In boiling salted water until
tender, then drained and-turned Into a
dish, and over It. was poured a' cupful
of tomato which had been cooked soft
browned flour, and season with tomato cat
■ Vhuj stew,: eaten with bread or with hot
biscuits..is a dinner in itself.
. Mock Panfish „'.', -'.'.;
Prepare a dish of boiled grits or Indian
meal mush, cook well . and pour "in upon
, a broad platter. When perfect old and
stiff, slice InU pieces thts, size and salted
of email flah. Dip and roll each,ln salted
end peptered corwneaf. Fry to ■ ■aeii
cjte brown ■ In'Oe-jp,-hta»lnr-hot »at. Urejn
and arrange upon a hot dish, t.arclshi with
paisley and sliced lemon. =•- Servo hot and .
..-eat v.ith Worcestershire sauce or with to
"■ mato catsup.- , - ,„. "'*. .-"'." ■'■'■• „'-,"'„;
A palatable, inexpensive "imitation"
dials. - ..- - - .- ' f - .--.-■
Cheese Fondu "....»*
One cup of grated dry old cheese; 1 up
of fine breadcrumbs; cayenne or black pep
per to taste: 1 cup of milk; 1 eggs, white*
and yolks beaten separately. Mix the in
gredients, i adding tbe beaten, whites ■ last.
Bake in moderately slow oven end serve
immediately, as it soon falls. f
HHHInK?*. Corn- Cakes
Scald a Dint of cornmeal with half a Dint
of boiling water; add a teaspoonful of salt,,
a, dessertspoonful of melted lard. 2 well
beaten eggs, a pint of sweet milk and a
. msnoontul of baking powdery sifted in -.
enough ' flour to - make batter the consist-:
ency of flannel cakes. . -■■'■ ■;-■ ■..■•■ •*-■■-/
Cloak upon a soapstona griddle in small
Sugar Syrup
Mix a pint ot" light-brown 'sugar i with t »
pint of boiling Water and cook down to the
, desired thickness* *'•' . -• ■' •' ■••'• "".'■ ,
Mrs. J. P. B. (Staunton. \ a.).
The'! esteemed correspondent to whom
* we' owe the six admirable recipes*; just
v set" down adds a f menu * for one - day
with which we shall begin. our ; list .of
family mesh-, this week. '
Magazines for Shut-ins .
Kindly send me name **■ arid ':■ address of .
. shut-In> who wishes-magazines. , I 'have a
""goodly number to dispose of. f ,„".*'
,- Mrs. E. E. H. (Chicago). ,
As you do not give* the signature OS
the; shut-in and" write ; upon * a postcard,
'? I cannot send the address. I shall hold,
your; address.•; subject: to i the order*of
the shut-in. should she not-be already:
supplied with * reading ■"■" matter. - We
; thank you for the friendly thought of
our needy ones.", -?: ■••■;..
.Canned Meats at Home
- ■ Kind!v ■ Instruct me how to put ': up meats ■
' ,'in glass Jars for winter use. 1 have applied
to th» govern-., tor - the Farmers' Bulle-» :
tin, but they were all out of the book. Let
* me know If" there Is a good book upon can
, ning which one can get and learn from -It;',
bow to out up fruits, s vegetables and meats.
•*• -Please let is hear more of putting up un
* cooked fruits. •it !« wonderful. - •
R. C. M. (Pittsburg, Pa.).
!' Your requests - are ! referred *!*. to thosa
.who'have canned meats. 1 never, have. -
May * I ask *; why : you think >of * putting
-up ;your ■ own! canned fruits, etc,;* now
"4 that the pure-food law j has obliged pro
fessional canners to use no preservative
-„, except'heat: in preserving provisions for'
'-' ■'■"'-;",... . ; - .;■ * ,:,-,, ::?"-'•:•: • .;':'::--.■ :.:'.' •'•>•:;
with a sliced lemon. This was put
; through: a colander before mixing with
.!the macaroni. Two ' tablespoonfuls of
grated parmesan cheese were then
strewed ■ over the ' top of the macaroni*"
and it was served piping hot.
Polenta, which is almost as much a
national Italian dish as .macaroni, was
also often seen on our table. It might *be'
bought ready ' prepared " there; but in
this country the housewife would hardly
succeed in , finding it. I am !afraid. It]
would have to be made at home, and Is
really little more than mush of yellow
cornmeal. When It has. been cooked
until thoroughly done," it is taken out J
by the spoonful and put Into a dish and
a highly seasoned tomato sauce poured
over It—unless, a good brown gravy is
preferred. In either case grated cheese \
is sprinkled over the top of the polenta
and the dish set in the oven for three
minutes before sending to table. C *,'
I have given these dishes with so much
detail because I believe they would be
found no less pleasing to the home
staying families than they were to the
household transplanted to Italy. The
American cuisine takes pride in appro
priating the best wherever it can; be
found; and ; when ftlie housekeeper can
make economy and appetizing qualities
go hand in hand she is lucky. Italian
cookery supplies her with such an or
portunity,, and, I shall hope to hear that
many of my constituency will try the
dishes I have outlined and give * a good
report of them.; ":'
This season of the year," .when celery
is at Its ] best, ". is an excellent time .to
try another of our favorite Italian vege
table dishes, known as "sedonl," : which
was nothing more"" nor less than fried *
•Velery - with an Italian twist; The ! part
of the celery used, was the outer stalks,
which we're not so well blanched as the
finer portions. These stalks were cut
Into 4 or 5 inch lengths, rolled.first^ in
an egg beaten up with a little water'
and then in fine crumbs,! sprinkled with
salt and | pepper, dipped again Into' the
egg and fried in olive oil; Orated cheese
was strewed over the celery just before
it went to table. BBBHBSfiHBHBHI
Thus far 1 have dealt with vegetable
dishes, but; we had - variety:! in "our
meat dishes as well. , It was not all
roast lamb, much as we liked* it! !.'.}.
Perhaps our preferred meat dish for
winter use? You may buy canned foods
very much more cheaply than you can
put them up for yourself, it your time
is worth' any tiling , , „
.'Every good cookbook contains recipes
for canning fruits and vegetables. ,r As I
said Just now, there may be some clever
housemother in our tig family who puts
up soups, stews and; meats'. If,so, we
shall ..hear from her. ".<;- ;* ''■■■'".
System in Housekeepings
'■' Would you object to letting; me have the!
address „of the •, person *-* who! wrote , upon.-.
•"System In Housekeeping"? The signature
Is "I. M. H. (Champaign. 111.)." I should
like to correspond with her, as I think her !
.article excellent and useful for young roar-'
; rled coudK's. I should like «to hear » mors
-from her and to send her some of my own"
Ideas. Mrs. T. B. V. (Alameda, call. .
."I. M. H." will * undoubtedly read your
testimony to.her helpful article and; al
low us. to pass along her address to you.*
I haves no ; right to do • this without • her
permission. ", Correspondents■ who do not
ask , questions to |be | answered Sby | other
members, * or :In some way signify their
desire !to :,. open ; ; communication .' with
members An general," usually prefer•' to
remain *, incognito.. Addresses are con
sidered i confidential -in . all •• such .; cases.'
We hold yours, > and It- will be passed
over to the author of,"System In House
keeping" should she signify her consent
to the transfer. '^ffiSMKtWfSMttfiffil
A Helping Hand
" .-*! If you will send me the address of the
- poor shut-in who would enjoy magazines
and other reading matter I will gladly
send seme -to, her, >express prepaid. ■
. Is- have ..- all of * last ;■ year's -' Mci'lure's,
. American " Magasine *-• and the Ladles',,
World, besides odd numbers- of."different '■'
■ periodicals'- and .many Saturday , Evening -
-.."* Posts. '„ •:" ', I '.'..--'--/' V ... ....
,'r.l: am sending two : recipes that may be
' appreciated' by . our ; readers." < One is eat*&.
- fee . cake.* the - other . for oatmeal ; cookya. ,
■gdiiiAMaKxQ. : B. . (Nelson, ;Ga.).
As I the applications : from' shut-ins*.< for
; literature y have :-been Innumerable. .; I
■■""• have '* no ':definite idea to *. which ■* your
-';* generous offer- refers. I , cannot lett It
- slip, however, and Insert your letter in.
: the hope; that !■ It > will be ■ read! and laid
hold of,. eagerly jby , those .whom it most
nearly .;; concerns. '""•;-!.* "; : /■;"
c", I cannot'pass over in silence the part
;of • your;. letter which ,Is too, flattering
and , too ; personal for the general, eye.
From my heart, I thank you ford the
words of appreciation and eneourage
tment. They put new strength into spirit
and into mental thew and nerves, '-*.
The admirable recipes will appear lateri
in the Corner. • - v -
. ''Bull's Eyes" ,
■.- Some time ago. while spending a summer
upon a farm. I ate what were celled 'Bull's
Eyes." .They were small, round, solid
fried cakes with a tii.nu of jelly in the mid
die. 1 .have tried to make them, but with
out success.- ..Can you - help - me? ■■&*, . --,- ~*~,:\
Then again, when In Chicago a few years
f ",
The San Francisco Sunday Call
BH-*' '"■" WBSS ' A
lunch was frltella, also known as
fritto mlsto.' For this we had the gib
lets, hearts, livers, gizzards and
lights of a pair of chickens—these
giblets could be bought without the
chickens — ' parboiled . and cut into
pieces. Artichokes and peeled; pota
toes were also sliced, all were dipped la
res. rolled in flour or cornmeal« and
fried in boiling olive oil. Butter could
be used instead of the oil. All of the
Pieces of food ' were drained well after
frying," and were , dry and hot when
served./ Sometimes we added to them a
sweetbread or a pair of calvea' brains,
parboiled before frying. We never
tired of this dish,; and liked to have it
at least once a week, if not oftener.
Another meat dish was beefsteak fried
in batter. The Italian marketman does
not seem to be able to; grasp the Eng
lish or American preference for a ' thick
■teak,' and we were conforming to the
custom of the country when we had our
steak cut only - a quarter of an inch
thick. 'We chose the porterhouse, or
else the short steak, when we felt we
could not afford tenderloin; had our
steak divided into pieces about three or
four inches square; dipped these in.bat
ter made of an egg : beaten 'up with a
tablespoonful of cold : water, a pinch *of
salt.and a cupful of flour, and fried in
deep boiling oil to a , golden brown.
These were very good! * ,'- i
For' using up left-overs of meat—,
there were such occasionally, in spite >
of the Italian custom of buying only as
much at!a time as can be consumed at
a meal—we cooked the • chopped rem
nants In : cabbage ! leaves. The meat
was well seasoned after it was minced;
small firm»cabbage leaves were select
ed, dropped into : boiling water: for five.
minutes.. and . then thrown into cold
water to blanch them, taken out and
ago, I purchased at a German bakeshop
what - tney called "a, Columbian"- or
"French fried cake.** It was round with a
hole in the center.'like an ordinary dough
, nut. but It was fluted,* very light brown
or yellow; In color, sprinkled . with sugar,
and so delicate and light ; that It almost,
melted in the mouth. The dough was not
close and - heavy . like . our doughnuts, - but
- porous . and yet crisp, and with some
! "'body" to it. --.
Do you know what they are and bow
made? Mrs, E. Q. S. (Preston. Cuba).,
A-new correspondent from 'a - part of
our territory : which is, thus far, - com
paratively u'nworjced by us, '.■-'"".
* While I ■ cannot ; reply satisfactorily to
her requests and queries, our members
will be true to!; their traditions: and
hasten to prove how welcome she is by
giving theiinformation she desires. It
• will; be a pleasure to -me to | publish the
recipes for • her . edification and for the
general good.
A {Different Marshmallow
, . Pudding
'- Many months ago. : "S." -J. W." (Middle
burg..TVa.>- asked . tor ' a recipe for marsh
mallow pudding. You have published sev
eral, but 1 venture ■to offer mine, which is
unlike those voJ give It,was tent,to me
from Texas. - I have found it so fine that I
have included It among favorite recipes in
a little "Pudding Book'-I have published.
vl" -" Marshmallow > Pudding
• The whites of * three • eggs, beaten < stiff:
one cupful of sugar: two teaspoonfuls of
gelatine'dissolved in half a : cupful , of hot
water.'!':, - .-■•<*. .
.When • the ; gelatine is dissolved, best
sugar and eggs into . It; flavor to taste;
beat twenty-minutes and set.away In the
Ice. •-■■■■_•■■- ■;*.-•■: - • . ■-,-■-.
--r For .'sauce, '■v. the yolks of three eggs
stiff; stir Into a cunful of milk, with two
tableepoonfuls of' stigar, > Cook *to the con
elstency of cream. > -';■•' ■-..;»»
You may color hslf of the" pudding pink
by - usirjt. a little Dink gelatine, and have
pink and* white -layers.
/ ; . -.- ; ,i- ; E. J. 11. (Elgin. 111.). ,\
• Also a new recruit, and one who-bids
fair to do excellent service in our. ranks.
I regret " that we. could; not make room
for her*■;' until! now. *! | She must * not .be
disheartened by ; the delay.
Quince Honey
'■ Has "any •" one ' told In the' EStcbange; how
to make quince honey - Quinces win be out
of season before this can be published but
the recipe will keep o^er. fvir another year.
Here Is my recipe. .*•'• ..: --. -<■ "...
-■ Six larpc quinces: ;*; pounds of .sugar;
about a quart of water. Pare and grate the
quinces. Cook the skins and cores In part
of the water and strain end; press Into the,
grated < pun. -, l Put > the > pulp • and ; all the
liquid upon the - stone and cook 0 ; minutes
•from the time it reaches the boll.. Add the
sugar and boil down to ft jelly.
'-- Pour t into jelly ' glasses an.l. .when : cold,
cover w'th pafsfflne., 1 keen mine upon the
top shelf •of I the I storeroom—as I long as llt
' lasts.iwhich Isn't us long as .should like.
'**"•', M. R. 8. (Mereellus. Mich.),
A new contributor to whom" we give
the society "grip," arid solicit' further
favors.; "" .
"Fanning is resorted to by Italian
cooks." •
dried, each folded about as much
meat as it would hold and pinned
lightly with a wooden toothpick. Shal
low oil or butter was used for. these,
but it was boiling hot, and the leaves
wjth the meat in them were laid In It
and fried to a light brown. f
; ,'The Italian cook makes savory dishes
her strong point. We had a few home
made sweets, . but fruit, cheese", nuts,
raisins, figs and the like rarely made a
dessert, unless one of us descended
upon the kitchen and strove with the ***
poor means at our command to repro- '
duce an American sweet. Usually we
lived as the Italians did, and were well
content. ''VffWr^SWmtfSSnXlMtWK^^A
Baked pears, fried mock paniUh, scones,
■ coffee.
'. Cheese fpndu, corn cakes, sugar syrup,
toast, tea. ■»»■«#
„R.H. Wi*? ,tew * "t*i ffe- ee-JPlant. baked com
(canned), , cucumber salad, vanilla lea
- cream In rosettes, black coffee.
; Mrs. J. P. b. (Staunton. Va.).
ait/ nd oranges cut up and sugared,
cereal and cream. • bacon and annlea
whole wheat biscuits, toast. teaTand coffee'
Dublin stew <«, left-over) * creamed pota
toes, eggplant and lettuce salad (partly. .
left-over). whole wheat biscuit. from
breakfast. Swiss fr'tters *«»«SS! sauci!
■ DINNER ' '...'. ' .
Julienne soup, codecs of veal «™v
sauce, canned succotash, fried sweet Dotal '
tf-acV c CSee! ate WaDC m*n«* an" &
><*, .', BREAKFAST
Grapefruit, cereal ; and cream baron
.eoiied eggs, muffins, toast, tea end coffee
!LUNCHEON!':: "* ■>*' -
- Minced veal on toast (a left-over) stuff.* \
potatoes, hasty cornstarch pudding, cocoa - V
- ." .DINNER '- .J
tomS^^ce.^ed roast chine with "•
■%?l tO A" ."* v*i c- rlce<i POtetoes"browned
Xk^coff'ee 011* •QttiUth ■*»»• T?* cJSSi. 1
■ ml* D»ft IPIc.' r<,■a,* nd cream- ■*>*
mackerel with cream gravy. oatmeal
scones, toast..tea and coffee. 5 oatmeal
Cold chine, potato cakes, oatmeal scenes
from breakfast, baked appier stuffedFwuS
chopped nuts, cookys. tea. - ull
.-*-'•'/-• •'.'",."' "-.'". DINNER
Black bean soup," boiled fowls with era
sauce risotto, carrots sliced an" Med' tail
and bread pudding, black coffee ] *
Oranges cereal and cream, scrambled urns
To^A^d'^T^ 3-. maple«™
y .'."".. -.LUNCHEON '
. I ci» n,.fltter'' risotto (warmed over) en
geVbread ad,raC*t6rß ™* CheW ' ***W
-', ' ■ DINNER
• Chicken broth (based upon liquor in which
the fowls were boiled), spinach^ seal opedl to
b"ack" fco«ce C*ronl PU! dl! *-wl< bird sauce.
•'.'* 'BREAKFAST *
Grapes, cereal and cream, flshballs shore,
cake, tosst, tea and toffee. ""*""■ snorv
" ;^.*-.''.-"'*;;''V:*j;c.".LUNCHEON. \
/ lt***ea erwjnettea (a left-over), shortcaksi
(hot and buttered), lettuce salad. cwke?J* •''
. and ; cheese.; cookys . and Jam, tea. tratKer'
'.'•'■.-. v."-. -*."-/*:DINNER
: Yesterday',, soup, - salmon * pudding (bakea
a a; mold), mashed potatoes. canned gTraS
peas, orange irlttera, black coffee. fc
Apple sauce.' cereal and cream, bacon and
Mcd mush (polenta), toast, tea and coffee <
. •:>;;; luncheon
- Frtsjled i beef with * cream gravy.' com
' <,<>?Ji'?. r** ' ■ potato - croquettes *," (a left-over)
\ griddle cakes and honey, , tea. * D 6^.,• \
. -;., .DlNNEß***'*-.. - \ '
Glblet soup (a leftover),. corned beef. V *
i a*l«» cabbage, fried celery, suet dumpllngl . '!
With : brandy ? sauce,. black coffee. -. v ~*m '

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