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The San Francisco Sunday Call
DRESS ornaments are more beauti ful than ever this year— and more expensive. That Is why the prac tical woman should greet this page with enthusiasm, for here are sug gestions for making your own at home. Have you ever thought of the ease •with which a piece of leather might be stamped and cut with a sharp knife? Dtld you ever use watercolor on satin or velvet .* The handmade ornament Is a wonder ful trimming, and whether it be of pyrographed velvet or cloth, of painted satin or leather, the field is now open to you. Make your own trimmings. Re joice In the elegance of yokes, motifs, bands that are astonishingly cheap and extremely effective. It Is a surprise to many to learn that pyrography may be applied to some of the delicate materials used for gowns or other garments. The delicate lines and exquisite blending of colors often cause this work to be called embroid ery at the first glance. The materials used are velvet, -satin, panne velvet, broadcloth and leather. The best velvet for this work Is one which has a stiff cotton back and - a thick nap. White velvet may be used, but the cream color gives the best ef fect of the old Ivory tints. ■ The designs are made in floral or con ventional style to fit any -required space. The color is painted in to match the gar ment or to form a pleasing contrast. This is one of the best points In'this work, because It is often Impossible to buy trimmings -with the exact combina tion of colors, or those that will fit the exact place. Velvet passementerie combines well with almost any color or mate rial. The broadcloth trimming is most effective on tailored suits of silk or cloth. The floral designs ln panne velvet are for light silks, chiffons, laces, nets, etc., used in evening or afternoon gowns. The designs for the floral decorations are taken from nature or made in conventional form. The skirt may have the flowers In festoons or wreaths, with loose petals apparently falling from the blossoms. All twining flowers, such as roses, sweet peas, wistaria, etc., are more graceful for these designs. Passemen terie la bands may be made to match any of this work. The trimming is lightly tacked on the garment, or may be stitched i on by machine, or French knots may be used. FLOWER STENCILS FOR SMALL SPACES FREQUENTLY, there Is opportu nity; for using little stencils for small spaces on cushions, boxes, drapery, book covers and so on, and usually the bought patterns are of large dimensions. Here are offered, therefore, a little group of designs that are extremely effective when used as repeats, and are undeniably easily cut: out from the regulation stencil board at 5 cents a sheet. V...:'," Suppose that stencil board is not. to be obtained:near your home. Well, ordinary cardboard treated to a lin seed oil wash will serve the purpose.. Now you are ready for the work. Trace the design.that; you : select on the surface !of the ; stencil - board •by using carbon paper -inserted* between this sheet and; the' board. A bard, sharp pencil will ' transfer the outline quickly. HBBNKNfI .If you have not carbon paper, trace the design through wax paper* and then " turn ; the : drawing; over [and; re trace the sketch. A faint" impression will be left, over":which you can make Ink lines or lead pencil lines to guide you In the cutting. WORK for the WOMANLY BRAIN and HAND This work requires careful handling from the very start. The material is held smoothly and firmly on a draw ing board by thumbtacks. The de signs. If original, are perforated over several thicknesses of blotting paper. The stamping is done with colored powder. It Is best to tack the designs on the material, as they are liable to slip and thus give a blurred look. If certain shades of powder cannot be found in shops, take a crayon of the desired color and rub ' to a powder on sandpaper. For general stamping a bluish gray for.light materials and white powder for dark usually an swers. A good face or tooth powder will do for a white powder, as very little is used. The patterns may be transferred with carbon paper, but stamping is much quicker and neater. It is best to experiment with »the pyrography needle on odd pieces of material, In; order to get accustomed to regulating the pumping of the benzine fume-. The finest of the .etching is done with the needle point nearly cool. Use a ' smaller amount of benzine than for wood burning. "Jin a. snarp penanue.cut out the design, placing the .* board over a wooden table or : stand. When ready, apply , color through the openings with a stiff brush, using stencil dyes, or oil paint mixed with turpentine.; -■• The nasturtium ;; should \be ; painted with , yellows• or ' red, "*,! Its stems' a , deli cate green. You —a^lll i. notice how,; a square outline la suggested by the "stem. This motif can; be , repeated at regular intervals on curtains, cushions or table runners, and * the stencil design - is' ef fective .„ on ! muslin or ! velvet,";, silk jor lawn. .Just' as a' suggestion— < does a ; border, of ".these . flowers on ; an un bleached muslin curtain appeal to you? The : conventional rose "' form > can«, be painted In one* color or In two tones of one color. It is always 'effective,!" and can »be dashed on material \, with great ease and in little time.; ". , - "When painting the ? bunch of -wistaria DRESS ORNAMENTS MADE AT HOME The finest lines, such as the veln lngs of the * blossoms, are ; not even scorched, but . are Just silvery lines made by the needle when the heat is blossoms use a pale green, for the stem and slender . leaves and ; lavender for the flowers. This design on white mus lin is paxticulariy beautiful,giving a shadowy effect, as if seen through the curtains. A"■ bureau set to match - the drapery!in the green room Is an excel lent suggestion. I The daisy form. is, always good -on colored goods. Gray linen or brown silk, with white and -yellow' flowers stenciled at regular spaces. Is i attractive. Pil lows, curtains, centerpieces or linen cov ers for : books, magazines, etc, ' are but a few of the Ideas "that this design offers. .-.-^flHB With paint, brushes and an apprecia- Won of the decorative > value of '- stencil work, every home j should glory in'! the touch ! that iis Inexpensive, 1 but . that counts for. much ln the general effect. Creased Garments CLOTHES packed away during ', sum •! mer are often very creased. ;. To re r ," move . the creases ; hang the articles on a clothesline *** in. the 'i bathroom, shut door and .window,- turn lon the hot-water tap to All the room with steam"and leave the clothes ; for an ■ hour or « two. After ward dry in the open air if possible. nearly gone. The needle or platinum point used Is the same as the point commonly used in wood burning. The sharp '"■ point has a slight upward HOUSEHOLD HINTS DO NOT a brass kettle for cook . ing until it is thoroughly cleaned with salt and vinegar. . To clean ( rusty and blackened . knives, use half a raw potato dipped ■in brick dust. »' "'■•- *■" ''^ar^StW^St&W"' ' To take cut dye stains from the hands, : use cornmeal, pumice : stone * ; or ,v fine •and, or • a*. little ■ chloride of lime In water. ~ i Many r stains can 'be , removed with \ vinegar or,lemon Juice. Tumblers which have! contained milk should first be * rinsed in cold water > be fore washing in hot water. Graniteware should not be left to dry over a hot; fire, *■- as > the heat !ln expand ing may cause the; outside -to scale. When material is being dyed it should be stirred well.'This allows the dye to penetrate to all parts alike, thus produc ing an even shade. ;..;.;»'- - Never put meat . directly •on the :. ice. but always on a plate, as direct contact with the Ice will destroy its flavor. Fish, lemons, and cheese, or any strongly; flavored* food, should not be placed lin < the I same I compartment with milk and butter. * Mold can be kept from ■* the -, top ;of curve and the sides are slightly flat tened. For ordinary work this needle answers all purposes. >'l Burn the [outlines' first, and those to be cut out burn deeper, but not through the '" material. In etching velvet or panne velvet, t only the, nap is burned. The color is then added, * care being taken to prevent adjoining . colors' from running. To do this add little water kto the watercolor paint and let: one . color partially dry ■ before applying another. To '! get *•*: Persian effect -paint. in - wavy lines or dashes, at intervals, • a delicate pink; then > before that Is "dry, add' pale lavender at . Intervals: on : the ': uncolored surface. ■', The remaining; parts not ;' col ored are then done in a pale green. The colors-blur enough to give an odd and beautiful effect. For. a pale pink use crimson lake with quite a little water. c Lavender Is a com-; bination of - crimson -. lake and new or Prussian blue." The 'best) green' for this work Is sap green, which combs in small china pans.',"*. The beauty of j all coloring lies In the manner of applying the paint so that the luster of the material* Is not made" dull. V This applies' more to the panne velvet and satin. In cutting >, out this work 'i use' small. preserves by putting a, few drops of glycerin around the edges' of the Jar be fore screwing on the cover. Fish to be '-: k^pt fresh should be sprinkled ; with salt and * put ; in a cold place. .".■' «*,, • • • *;. Perspiration stains nan be removed by rubbing; with soap and laying the gar ment in the hot sun. BHBBnSH , To remove . tea and coffee stains, stretch .-■ the - stained * place. over a - bowl and pour .boiling water ' through- the stain. HHDEbSEHiBMHBBRHHBHI To take . out j grass **■ stains, wash the stained part in alcohol and rinse In clear water, if possible while the stain Is fresh. . . To remove mildew, 5 rub over the marks with the juice of a raw tomato, sprinkle with salt and lay in the sun. Repeat the process If necessary two or three times. To remove'blood ' stains, . saturate with kerosene oil and let stand a few mo ments, then wash in cold water. * To bleach * white *.. garments, use one tablespoon ?of '*■ borax *=, in f one • gallon of water..- Wet • the; clothes, dry, in the i sun and repeat the process if necessary. Lamp , chimneys rubbed with salt after washing have a surprising brilliancy. * sharp scissors and cut in the center of the groove formed by the burning. The out work on cloth or leather brings out the design by -cutting out the spaces of: the background. The design is stamped OUR FRENCH CIRCLE TO ALL readers the. opportunity is now given to learn a foreign language. Under the competent instruction of Madame Godard, of Paris, and for years a successful instructor in America, you can learn In the easiest manner a language that combines a practical value with a,cultural worth surely two factors that are rarely offered free. *».!'. Step by step, along the delightful way of an intellectual recreation, you will be led.** The well-planned* lessons each* week are short, to the point, and so arranged that necessary review is combined with Interesting introductions of the new. BHSBSSBS! HPHHHHBPHBBBp Madame. Godard suggests that each-word and each phrase be pronounced and written seven times. In that way the French should be retained easily and progress will be made; without tiresome mental strain. Each lesson is short and should be mastered by you with little effort You will notice that the mind -Is not burdened .with Isolated' words waiting for the mystic chain of sentence formation. Right away you are. taught sensible phrases and short sentences that are of practical value in everyday lite. Just.one word more. Cut out these lessons and keep them as links In a chain. Paste them In, a book, so that if you wish to review, "the; material Is ready for you. ifIBBBtiMR9RBfIHI "No fees, no textbooks, no Journey! Study French at your home in comfort! . Chances like this do not often fall to your lot. Very well! And Just becausa you and Madame Godard are meeting for tho first time,' she will greet you and you will answer. HMHhMBnMHiHiBHHsIMMH PREMIERE LECON (FIRST LESSON) * The French language is characterized .by a ; peculiar nasal- Intonation in certain words. For instance, "bon" Is:pronounced not exactly like "bong" nor exactly like "bonk," but halfway.between the two. The sound is stifled at the back part of the throat, and the result li the nasal niil'*MßMMlW>s*iliillw4tlil|yffl • Another characteristic of French Is,the.union of the last consonant of one word with the first vowel or "h" mute of the following. There Is a running together in conversation that • frequently confuses the', listener ; who does ■ not know of this. ;; However, practice is all that is necessary In order to acquire a skill and ease in speaking and.understanding....,;. ...... ■*" A third characteristic is the lack of accent,* as we understand It; all sylla bles being equally stressed. * - - , Frencn. Pronunciation. ■* English. Bon jour. / Bong zhoor. Good day. Bon jour, madame. : . Bong zhoor, mad-dam. Good day, Mrs. ■', (or madam). Bon jour, monsieur. ,Bong zhoor, mseu. - ( Good day, Mr. (or sir), Bon jour,' mademoiselle. Bong zhoor, mad-mwah- Good day, Miss (or m. madam). Comment allez vous? C6m-mong.al-lay.voo? How do you do? •,', PRESENT TENSE aller al-lay to go je vais zheh vay I go il va eel yah he goes elle va el yah she goes vous allez voo zal-lay you go ' » Ou allez vou3, madame ? Oo" al-lay voo, mad- . Where are you going, i :•,:'. dam?,- . - Mrs. (or madam)! Je vais a Philadelphie. Zheh vayzah Phila delphee. Ou allez vous, monsieur I * , '■ Je vais a Paris. !^ ; Ou allez vous, mademoiselle? ' • , Je vais a l'eglise. .-_;■ Allez vous -a la-maison? oui wee non nong no merci mehr-see thanks comment , coin-mong how ••maison mai-zong \ house eglise;; . a-gleeze -church va « v*h;' go (third person) bon bong good bien bee-ang well; ! jnur zhoor u»v tres tray very madame mad-dam Mrs. monsieur mseu Mr. mademoiselle mad-mwah-zel Miss allez al-lay *• vous voo you je zheh I il eel . he elle el she le journal . leh zhoor-nal the" newspaper ' :.'l a da maison ah lah mai-zong '/ to* the house ** The articles le and la we will explain about fully next lesson. SUZANE; GODARD. on the " wrong side of ■; the material,. if possible, and is cut out on the dotted lines. This may be done in the gar ment or be made separately to be stitched on. An evening coat of i any shade is "pretty with a design cut around the flat collar, down the fronts and around both cuffs, with a . contrasting shade of panne velvet forming a back ground. The designs may -also be out lined with a burn-ed line, which is filled In with gold paint. Cut leather gives a richness -to garments, : and is more ef fective when the unfinished side Is used. Leather takes the watercolor paint very, well. The addition of sequins gives an effective touch to the leather trimming. White or cream embroidered chiffon passementerie, bought In the shops, may be colored to match garments or to glvs a pleasing combination by the. use .of watercolor paints, with Just water enough to make the color delicate^ Laces may :be done in ! this way, and wi*s» careful handling will launder. Top -col lars and cuffs of embroidered lawns are very dainty when tinted. "When well done the tinted work looks like em broidery in colors. Any woman ought to be able, to make dress ornaments that will be attractive and beautiful. Try this work « you doubt the fact. FLORENCE HOIiADAT BARBER.