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a Page for Misses ALWAYS the first costume to have ready for the early spring ls a coat and skirt of medium weight material that will not be too great a contrast with the winter suit, yet will not be too heavy for the first days of really warm sunshine. No mat ter what other costumes the outfit may contain, a schoolgirl should have one plain coat and skirt of serge or cheviot for school wear now and to use for traveling all through the summer. Older women find that in order to be well gowned at this most trying time of the year from a clothes point of view, the first spring days, they must be pro vided by the beginning of March with a smart tailor costume that ls not to be kept until Easter Sunday, but worn on the first hint of spring, those days when the best preserved winter suit will look shabby and the most expen sive felt hat out of date and says plainly that It has served Its day. Nor Is It any less necessary for a school girl to be thus prepared to usher ln the new season. All rough goods are smarter for rough wear than smooth finished cloths, and especially for the sort of use to which a schoolgirl puts : her every day dress the rough sedges, tweeds and Aevlots, If not too heavy, SOCIAL AMENITIES FOR THE SCHOOLGIRL GREED is not a pleasant term and many girls would be quite shocked and, Incidentally, absolutely In credulous if they were told that they were decidedly greedy. Yet the aver age girl, and the majority of grownup persons as well for that matter, are governed In most of their actions by greed. It Is never too soon to begin to realize this state of affairs either and to struggle against it and see If It can not be driven out of the character. Here Is really a new and quite splen did Lenten task. That greed can have Its origin In really flne motives and Intentions will, perhaps, also-be a -new thought for many, but this Is simply another of the nasty little subletles of this most tin pleasing trait, and its very Insidlous ness makes it all the harder to dis cover and to struggle with. What is the girl who works every spare moment of her lessons, not tak ing time even to be cheerful and pleas ant at home, that she may stand at the head of her class, but greedy? She wants first honors In order that she may stand above her schoolmates and thus have something that they can not bave~""""tf|H|W_H The girl who works conscientiously for the sake of what she ' may derive from her studies and for the pleasure ■he will give !to those who love her when she receives honors will never al low her studies to interfere with her actual duties at home and will never neglect the secondsV taken for small courtesies that she may. have that ex tra fraction of time to con her history or her algebra. * Take for example also? the question of friendship. Naturally , every-one should want and should try to be liked. But how about trying so hard to keep one girl's friendship that all other In make the best costume for this time of year. In the light colors mixtures In pretty shades of tan and gray are much In demand, while ln the solid colors blue ls In the favorite for school wear. Dark blue, light blue and all Its in. termedlate hues are unquestionably the fashionable colors this spring for schoolgirls, and If the material of the dress is dark It will be relieved by trimmings of a lighter or brighter tone on hat and waist An exception ally smart costume, designed by one establishment which makes a specialty of gowns and suits for young girls, consisted of a deep navy blue serge, with a hairline of light blue, the cos tume having a plain gored skirt, while the hip length packet was enlivened by cuffs and a sailor collar of light blue. Two sets of collars and cuffs were pro vided with the suit, so that while one set was being ironed or freshened there should always* be a fresh set to put on. The linen collar was attached to the coat by means of tiny lace but tons beneath the cloth collar, but the coat was finished beneath the linen and could be worn equally well without. Instead of the blue collar, while collars of linen or pique will also be worn by young girls on the street coats, but these collars will be considerably timate friends are excluded. For a time such a friendship will last but it is never good for a girl to be so greedy of one friend that she will neither make other Intimacies for herself nor allow others to see that friend ln an Intimate way. A close friendship is much to be val ued, but It must not be a selfish friend ship if It ls to last through the years. Girls are apt to show greediness in their friendships more perhaps , than In any other way. As In the schoolroom they want to stand first not nearly so much for what they are to gain, but for the pleasure of being flrst Ambition, whether for school honors or popularity among one's friends, is a fine trait — few can succeed without ambition in some formbut ambition must never be allowed to become the ruling motive. The difference between wanting to succeed for the sake of sim ply gratifying one's vanity and for the sake of the actual benefit that comes from the work well accomplished is very great. As the man who starts his career with every energy bent upon final success, but who becomes" side tracked with the love of > mere ' money gain and soon, will sacrifice every one and everything for his own ends— is the spirit of the '. girl who: starts "ln to study with a desire to stand head of her class but lets vanity get the better of her and loses control of her temper at every failure. This girl's greed will cause her unpopularity and endless un happlness all; through her life >' If . she does not commence at once to,-' check her false ambition. There are elements of greed even In the home girl Who' cares; more for the affection of her parents and her broth ers and sisters than to be looked up to in the schoolroom as a prize pupil or COAT AND SKIRT COSTUMES FOR EARLY SPRING larger than any that have been worn ln this way ln former years. A SQUARE sailor collar finishes most of the coats for young girls, and, Indeed, this style of collar Is espe cially becoming and should be retained ln the fashions for schoolgirls even if given up by older persons. The more white near the face the more attract ive will the spring costume appear., and the wide washable collar Is a fash lon both Intensely practical and ex tremely smart. Its width varies "some what, according to the figure of the wearer, since for some girls a narrow rather deep collar will be more be coming than a wide shorter shape, and vice versa. The shape in the front should be carefully planned so as not to give a narrow look to the thin child nor toO broad a look to the stout girl. The changes In the fashions for young girls are not so marked as Is usual at this time of year, but subtle as the many little differences are they must be observed or the costume will not bear the up to date appearance that i-' demanded of all costumes of tod., There Is a square cut to the back of the coat.-for example, that is scarcely no ticeable at first, yet marks all the new models. In many of the latest models there Is a seam down the center of the back of the leader In her class ln popularity. This girl must watch lest she wants so deeply to stand first with those of whom she Is so fond that she will. al most unconsciously try to exclude her brothers and sisters from this affection that she may stand not only flrst but alone. The truly loving and unselfish character will not be entirely happy unless she can raise others to the heights upon which she has raised her ■self. . •In the social world real greed plays a sadly prominent part nowadays, and the girl who* would grow up a favorite with all should never allow herself to commence giving Invitations with a spirit of give and take. Once started on this road it will be very difficult to get off the track. A girl with a certain Independence where money is concerned can do much for a friend less fortu nate In this world's goods, and while she Is still at school she should try to choose her friends among those girls whom she likes for their personality. If for any cause she dislikes a school mate and feels she Is not a girl'whose friendship will be of benefit to her character-then she should not demean herself by an Intimacy, which will have ln It" nothing but a surface acquaint ance because both are born ln the same little clique ln the world and will be In the same "set" when schooldays are a thing of the, past. Such a friendship can be*- made up only of /a spirit • of greed' for what* each ' may give the other. <J_BBB| To look for a possible spirit of greed In all one's actions and to stamp it out with worthier motives will be an excel lent Lenten task, and: one which will do even more jto strengthen the charac ter than a denying of sweets-of little extravagances. . *^aßßffl_____________H the coat which makes It hang quite straight from the shoulder line, yet leaves it possible to show the lines of the figure somewhat: at the hips and waist. Other jackets, and this Is espe- daily to be noticed In the coats for young girls, have the regular box back, while the side pieces are also flat, so that ,the. coat .: hangs practically, straight up and down.:..- This coat never reaches more, than an Inch or two at most below the hips. The various braided and fancy models .with high .'empire waistline ! and at tached hip skirt are not seen in any number among the costumes for ■ the schoolgirl. Inset side pieces and hip gores are also not at: all essential 1 ln the coats of small size, as all such models tend > to»cut the figure "and are difficult to make becoming to a girl not yet grown to her full height .^ v Jackets are either double breatsted or else so cut "that,, there Is a straight line down the . center. No coats save those built for really stout persons are fitted ln to the figure. Some of the sleeves are absolutely flat, others show some* fullness at the shoulder. This year". sleeve must depend upon the cut of the Jacket to f a large extent, for when exaggeratedly straight 11-jesV are sought there must be no fullness ln the sleeve to break . this line, while the more fanciful Jackets are usually given a few small > box i plaits or gathers at the top. For a schoolgirl some full ness is almost essential or the coat will be most unbecoming. Another point to be noted In the Jacket is in its-manner of fastening. .v : SOME of the elaborate Jackets do not button over at all, but are held In place by a ribbon 'tie beneath the sailor collar; this tie being of soft silk, generally the!color of the* cloth, but occasionally black satin is used.. Most coat buttons this year are from one to one and a half Inches in "diameter," are quite flat and covered generally with the cloth of which the coat is ■ formed. When there is considerable silk trim ming on the coat then the buttons may be covered with, the same material. While the dark bodice matching the color of the skirt remains In vogue, dark linens .will continue popular for the Jacket, but this spring many lin ings are of a pale shade of the suit's color, unless a dotted or figured silk ls used. Of all economies the most fool ish Is to purchase-cheap; lining for a coat, and for a cloth costume a silk should" be employed If possible * which will last as long as the csoth Itself. The best qualities of satin foulard,give good wear and foulard linings are ex tremely smart In the new coats, while this silk Is besides an excellent;weight for,warm weather. Dotted foulards for coat linings, with collar, revers, tie and The San Francisco Sunday Call j cuffs Instead of any other silk, are seen,considerably more upon the cos tumes for , schoolgirls than upon the suits for older persons, for whom this effect was an exceptionally popular novelty a year ago. There are no exaggeratedly tight skirts In schoolgirl models. Their gowns still hang straight, but for the smaller girls there are even . many plaits In the prettiest cloth frocks. A short skirt cut too scant Is so hideous a thing that! it will never be adopted, and the plaited skirts with the plaits pressed down 'so flat that they open out only in walking, running or when ever the width Is needed, are among the newest fashions for young girls still too short, to Imitate real grownup dress. The empire belt, line, obtained by attaching the top of the skirt to a piece of stiff grosgraln ribbon, is once more generally worn, and only a few gowns nowadays show a belt In nofrmal position. Until a girl has put on stays she should not, however, wear- this style of skirt, and for the small girl suspender dresses fare still made, ' for there Is no other , style *of gowns so practical or so "becoming. In the plaited models the'fullness only commences at the knees. In some models there are a front and back panel cut straight and plain, while the side pieces have flounces added at the knees, but the flounce consists In plait ed widths of the material not cut on FILLING THE DOWER CHEST GIRLS who are gradually filling f 'dower chests should make the most of every opportunity to buy odd lengths of pure Irish satin dam ask, which Includes the always beau tiful rose, fuchsia, snowdrop and sun flower designs, as well as the conven • tional patterns, and !Is so " exceedingly wide;that a square answers perfectly ■ for, an eight place luncheon cloth. The same designs ■ come in made up table - and napkin sets of breakfast, luncheon and dinner size. Equally as smart and ln as good taste as the damask sets of three sizes are those of plain, flne, very heavy; pure white linen, finished with hand scalloping, or hemstitching v and embroidered "at one corner in' Madeira effect. t 'lndividual luncheon ' sets, consisting of a large centerpiece and 12 oval doilies in two sizes are of double dam ask with. • hand scalloped edges;- of plain white,linen bordered with allover Irishlace and edged with a linen scal loping and of heavy crash Bulgarian embroidered with dull blue or refl, sep arately-or in-combination. : Round • and square centerpieces are especially attractive in plain linen em broidered with ..wild asters, .forget-me nots, daisies and! any : flowers ; whose petals may • be; made with a * single stitch. More elaborate single pieces, as well as ,■ 5 o'clock teasets, may be done <ln -. French * cluny, Madeira, hand embroidered Irish linen' and Japanese drawnwork. ■ ■ * ' . Individual or, guest towels, as well as the larger sizes, should be In plain blrdseye or huckaback; linen and have hand , stitched,; hand'scalloped or : dam ask ends. More elaborate towels should be of heavy damask with hem the bias, but straight. Despite all that may be said to the contrary, no skirt for a young girl should measure less than two and a half yards at the very least about.the feet, and even that will __ be a narrow skirt . / Some few of the newest models for school suits, and more, especially the rough suits for country wear, are built on Norfolk lines. The Norfolk coats fit,- In just a little at the waist line with broad strappings of the material. The bands or straps vary from three to four Inches In width, with the. machine stitching sometimes "close together, again only bordering the bands. For quite small girls the Norfolk Jackets In light colored homespun with a wide patent leather" belt are ex tremely smart. There must be an ul ster nowadays for every season In the year. For the early spring this ulster must he of heavy material, so as to have real warmth. All the rough tweeds, cheviots and serges are made up In these ulsters, but there is gen erally a lining of satin or --ilk In the upper part of the coat and In the sleeves to enable the cloak to slip on more comfortably. While there are separate sleeves to be seen among 1 the latest Imported English ulsters, the majority .. have the sloping shoulder seam, with mandarin sleeve. Blanket coats in a deep coffee color, practically a brown, are "still a favorite style of long, warm wrap for country usage. stitched ends, one of them surmounted by a hand embroidered large Initial or by a wreath Inclosing a -monogram- Bath towels of Imported white Turkish cotton should have hemstitched ends and he marked at one corner with an Inch ' square Initial in color,: or they should be of pure natural tinted Eng lish linen with red bordering and hem ming. Ordinary sheets of single or double size should be of soft finished extra heavy muslin and have three Inch hems at top and bottom. For summer serv ice buy seamless.. sheets o_T linen fin ished with hand or hemstitching, and for special guests have several sets of imported German linen with three rows of drawnwork at the upper or turnback end. Pillow slips matching all sheets should be of three sizes to accommodate the huge Dutch pillow, the American square of moderate proportions and the French oblong, and each case should bear the owner's Initial in fine embroid ery at one corner of the hem or directly above it. HBBHkI* ; Because they do not take up a great deal -of space in the dower chest the most practical bedspreads are those' of white or delicately tinted satin "dam ask bordered with hemstitching; more over th.?>'v are not likely to get out, of fashion, even though their owner may prove an exceptionally belated bride Another good material for bedspreads is heavy white - linen, which "may be bordered with hemstitching, Irish em broidery, wide coarse linen lace or with a gimp headed cotton fringe. Any of these spreads are more easily cared for than one, of block crocheted i aC which * involves an immense amount of labor to make, is difficult to handle and ex pensive ;to have • cleaned * *