The San Francisco call. [volume], April 02, 1911, Image 12

About The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
EVERY rirl nowadays long* to
have a particularly attractive tea
table whose furnishings shall be
as charming as those of all the
other tea tables with which «he Is fa
miliar, and from which shall be served
unusually delicious refreshments of the
sort which schoolgirls particularly like,
Sometimes glrla who have noticed only
the tea tables of their well to do friends
Rre apt to Imagine that a tea table
must necessarily be a matter of great
expense, far beyond the . possibilities
of the average girl's allowance, and
so they despair of setting up their own
tea tables.
This Is a very erroneous notion, as
most charming tea tables can be ar
ranged with the expenditure of very
little money. if care be taken to select
the china and ether equipment bo that
everything harmonizes and a general
effect that Is both pleasing and Inter
esting is obtained. Of course, Chip
pendale table, rare old bits of hand
■carved silver, exquisite cups of val
uable Dresden and hand wrought linen
from the' French convents, webs, of
delicate filigree spun with thread, are
delightful if they are possible, but
where they are not there are other
furnishings to be had that are quaint
and charming, and that any girl who
looks around In out of the, way ehopi
will be sure to stumble upon. -
The prettiest tea tables are n\\r-~
low, and they should not be too smalt
as there is really quite a little roof
needed to accommodate all the chin,
that Is necessary at tlmes\lf the table
. that Is at the disposal of a girl for her
tea table Is not quite low the legs
should be cut down provided the table
Is not too valuable a piece of furniture
to be treated in this manner. If it Is
then the girl should try to get some
member of the family to exchange with
her, bo that she can have a comfort
able looking tea table.
JUST at present there Is a fad for
using tea cloths wrought with
cross stitch In colors, and as this
style of embroidery does not * take a
great while to accomplish, th.» girl who
is fond of needlework may soon turn
out a most attractive cloth made of
Russian linen and wrought in colors to
harrnonire with the rest of her room.
Many girls, however, prefer an all
white cloth, which may be worked in
blind embroidery or trimmed with filet
or rluny lace. These cloths may be
exquisite pieces of hand work if there
!s no lack of • ■;■-■■ or money. Simpler
cloths .lo quite as well, however, pro
vided they are of fine material and well
laundered.
For those who do not use cloths, but
in-efer to have a tea tray covered with
class, there are fascinating new willow
framed trays beneath the heavy glass
• f which are seen charming cross
st'tyh embroideries. The colors used
are old fashioned shades of green, red,
dull pink and blue ana the designs are
flowers In stiff nosegays, garlands, etc.,
and quaint figures of, animals,. boys
and gi(;ls in old fashioned cloths, stiff
trees and. queer wooden loolftiß "birds.
These cross stitch patterns for. trays
have taken the place of the simpler
designs and the cretonne and oriental
designs which have been so popular.
Interesting Suggestion for Girls Who Sew
MiR bonnets are so exceedingly
simple nowadays that any girl may
fa a variety of them at a mini
mum of expense. The whole art con
sists in getting the correct shape known
.as the peasant cap and keeping strictly
to its lines. The bonnet is designed to
stay on the head firmly, as well as to
protect the hair from dust, for it fits
rlosely about the forehead and at the
nape of the neck. Incidentally it Is
wonderfully becoming to a youthful
face.
To make the peasant bonnet take a
quarter yard wide strip of material and
measure from below one ear lobe,
straighr across the top of the head to
below the other ear lobe. Next cut
a half circle of about four inches cir
cumference and into its diameter shirr
one long side of the straight piece.
These proportions are about right for
a girl with en ordinarily sized coiffure,
but for one with an abnormal amount
of hair the strip of silk, satin, mohair
or whatever material Is selected, must
be wider and the half circle slightly
larger.
The front edge of the straight strip
is then hand hemmed on to a staying
band, while the side edges and the
straight of the circle are shirred into
a second staying band, which merges
in strings. With these peasant bonnets
are worn three yard square veils of
chiffon broadly hemmed all round and
heavily weighted at each corner. Other
wise they might blow away, since they
are merely swathed about the cap, not
pinned to it.
or bonnets intended solely for
short runs out of town and which may
n during a luncheon in the sub-
urbs or at a country club are bewitch
ing affairs of lace, silk and ribbon.
They_ have rather flat but very full
Charlotte Corday crowns, which are
shirred on to a band of wide elastlo*
accurately fitted around th« crown of
the head. Over this elastic is set a
deep, full frill of plaited lac« or net,
which makes a pretty frame for the
face; the Joining of the crown and
brim is concealed under a twist of silk
or velvet ribbon terminating in a four
looped bow at the left front This bon
net perfecUy protect! th« hair and is
ATTRACTIVE NOVELTIES FOR THE
FIVE O'CLOCK TEA TABLE
An Attractive Tea Corner.
It Is a good plan to have the linen,
china and silver used on a tea table in
harmony as far as possible. One girl
who has a most attractive tea table
has chosen to furnish it in Hungarian
s. The cloth has Hungarian em
broidery and the china Is all of the
oddly shaped, bright colored Hungar
ian ware. Another successful tea out
fit is completely rriade up of Holland
TMitch silver, china and linen. A
charming toa table, which haft been
furnished by two sisters who are still
at school, is all In ivory colored ware
bought at the Japanese shops. There
is an exquisite carved ivory tea caddy
to complete the equipment, but this,
of course, is a 'decidedly luxurious
touch, und the color effect can be ob
tained Just as well by an ivory china
■idy. Either brass, silver or pew
ter Is beautiful with this Ivory china.
If the girl who wishes to have silver
finds that the silver piece! which she
needs are too expensive, she will be
able to find beautiful pewter pieces
whlrh are perhaps even handsomer
than the silver. Some of the old Dutch
pattern* in silver have ba
Id pewter, and the re* ■ I
satisfactory.
I: tain moms where deU
omtaste pink and -
I this
seems
particularly suitable for a girl's tea
table. There are really few more de
lightful tea tables than those fu-nlshed
kept In place with the aid of a weighted
veil.
Motor bonnets of mob cap'shape do
not protect the hair quite bo well as
the peasant and Corday types, but they
have the compensating quality of be
ing vastly becoming. A circle of fully
a half >arJ circumference should Mte
cut from whatever material is selected
and its hark and side portion stitched
plainly upon a staying band, leaving
all the excess fullness to be plaited into
the front, first making sure that the
straight band is long enough to permit
the cap to be drawn well down over
the head.
The lace which trims this mob bon
net should be put on as a border rather
than as a frill, merely held loosely in
stead of gathered, and it should be
headed with a wide beading run with
narrow ribbon matching the big but
terfly bow tied exactly above the brow.
Like the Corday bonnet, this mob cap
type of motoring headgear is designed
only for occasions when the objective
point is some place where other than
motorists are likely to congregate and
where a severe bonnet would render
the wearer of it conspicuous.
WHILE it is seldom advisable to
buy, simply because the article
is cheap, still It is well to keep
one's eyes open these days on a tour
through the shops, for often there can
be picked up for a very small sum in
deed a bit of lace that is just what Is
wanted for a collar, or a half yard of
effective ribbon that is just what is
needed for a new work bag. Krom
the smallest remnant of brocade or
silk it Is possible to buy can be made
several folding pin or jewel case* for
traveling that make most attractive
gifts or prizes, and incidentally are a
decided addition to one's own posses
sions.
From an eighth of a yard of brocade
can be fashioned anywhere from six to
a dozen pi n cases, according to the
width of the material. The case should
be about four by six Inches In measure
ment, although these cases are seen in
different sites, so that almost any small
scrap of material could be utHl«ed for
this purpose.
The brocade Is lined with some soft,
fairly heavy white silk, unless, perhaps,
chamois is preferred, and then Inter
lined with a single thickness of cotton
wadding, perfumed delicately with the
new cyclamen. The cotton and the
white Inner side are first basted to
gether and then sewn to the outside
piece. Next the three materials are
with pink china, tall pink candlesticks
and old fashioned silver. Pafe blue Is
- >mettmes used, but it is not so
pretty as the pink and It .does not look
us well when it is lighted. If blue Is
1. most girls have found that the
deeper shades are better. Yellow china
is most attractive, especially ■when
ttsed with white or ivory candles. The
plain pale green cjilna is also a favorite
among girlx, and where the room will
permit it. the red Japanese china is
very bandaome. As ■ rule, girls prefer
■ It china either of the sim
pler flowered patterns or the plain light
rental? handsome gold
is not so popular for
the girl's t^ri table.
There should always be flowers on the
tea table, but this doesn't mean at all
a vast outlay of money such as is
usually conjured up in the mind by the
suggestion of flowers'in cold weather.
The Japanese have taught us how ef
fective a single flower or branch may
be. and there is nothing prettier for a
tea table than a tall, clear glass vase,
perfectly straight and slender, in which
one rose or a flowering plant has been
placed. Clear glass jars or bowls set
in basketry frames are beautiful for tlio
St. Tf the tea table is
■ v beautiful old fashioned
>llver, it is very lovely t«>
of roses and forget-mo
unts in an old fashioned vase. Baskets
of flowers aro so delightful, and, if one
likes, instead of having the vase on the
table one may have H wall vase filled
bound with a .single piece of dull gold
or silver braid. In the -enter of the
whole piece, on the outside, is then
stitched a gold cor d formed by twi-ni,,
a half yard length of gold braid. sf w
ln * U«° th *t I* shall remain round,
and ending it off In a tight knot
thi >eV he CaSe.' 3 f°'ded over ln thr«a
the cord comes In just the right place
to tie loosely. As this case Is ewn
tlally for traveling. it win bfl
doubly useful by adding at one Bide a
small hanger or double loop, either of
the cord or wide braid, by which means
t can be hung on a nail by the dress-
Ing table and each pin be within easy
tnL hr^ n°W remaln .only "the pins to be
inserted, and to place these in even
look "in", 4 t,l SeleCt °nly Pins that will
look.well in the case require almost as
much time as the making of th°wL"
thing. There should be two rows any
way, of safety pins of different sizes
wo rows of black headed veil pins and
then about four rows of pins with dif
ferent colored bead heads-pink blue
brown and light P-which will any
one of them be SUre to be the one color
needed at some time when without this
case It would have been Impossible to
procure the desired thing ' slDle t0
DAINTY FANS
THIS Is a fan season, but as the
][• pretty, coquettish little feminine
toys are of infinite variety and price
every girl may have one. Daintiest of
all for dances are the tans of spangled
sauze edged with princess lace, mount
fromP?h ' mv° ther ° P**l"l " and slung
from .the bracelet; by chains of gold
Ihese are ; expensive, but not quite so
much so as those ; with spreads of
duch«« or point lace on pearl sUcks or
of hand painted satin supported on
Sandal wood Is employed with the
gold pallletted gauze fans, which are of
every Imaginable color, and with those
of chiffon, edged with lace and pow
dered with gold dust. The girl whose
mother, aunts and grandmothers thrift
ily preserved their fan mountings of
carved Ivory, old sandalwood, lacquer
pearl, or, perchance," jewel set ebonY
may have the remnants of the spreads
carefully cut away and replaced with
some filmy material.
A handkerchief or bertha of ancient
lace, torn or discolored past using in
its original state, may be made to serve
this purpose, or, if the stlcka are rather
massive, a bit of old brocade, silver or
gold embroidered, will answer per
fectly.
A collection of white ostrich plames
which have grown thin with usage and
many curlings may be worked over into
a fan made entirely of feathers or cut
up into a. bordering for a spread of silk
or gauze.
~herc Should Always He a Large Chair Near the Tea Table.
T\/T T? If 'm> s~\'s T5) - s~\ Tl 17 ° T!c\ IT '' /9*v
THE joy of a bit of real Irish lace is
that Hfcan'be washed every day in
the week if necessary and yet retain
until it falls to pieces a look of its crisp
pristine newness. It is for this reason
that: for separate collars • and cuffs,-, for
yokes, for trimming on lingerie waists
and even' for the adornment of under
clothes, Irish lace is looked upon as so
very desirable. This lace, although It
will endure '. washing so much: better
than any other kind, must still •be
handled with some little decree of care
and respect if it is to give the extraor
dinary wear that Is required of it. A
lace collar must not be washed out
with any. bit of soap that Is at hand,
which, while it will make It white
again readily, does so by an amount of
alkali ( in its composition which is
bound to rot the thread of the linen
fabric - Only a guaranteed pure soap
of a composition especially, intended for
lace and delicate fabrics „ should be
used, and even then all, suds; must be
thoroughly ,rinsed, out before .the lace
Is hung in the bright sun to dry.
When a collar or cuff piece of Irish'
lace has become yellow, or discolored a
dash of ammonia may be placed in the
water and then the lace hung in the
sun to bleach thoroughly. : If quite
yellow the la"cc should be constantly
dampened in «cold water before being
allowed to become. quite. dry, 1 so -as to
bleach it the more thoroughly. - , N
•■'. Irish lace does ;, not - require to ;be
ironed, but a collar that, has constant
wear will be much improved fby being
starched and % ironed occasionally, even
If it is only washed out and dried, as a
general* rule. '.V. „ „ ■■.; „-■-,'•'.,," „
A net collar band with a narrow bor
der of _ Irish • edging is pretty; for school
use," and If a high collar Is preferred to
, the. popular low ; Dutch ruffle a j girl can
always ; look delightfully'^ trim > and! neat
by * making for ;. herself 5a * few sets■?. of
■ tucked net collars and cuffs. The plain
ness of the * net < may be relieved 'by r a
j narro-W Irish edging. The collar.is:at
tached by a pretty brooch at the front
and back of the neckband. "--; r
When it is necessary to dress entirely
wltnln the limits of a small allowance
It will be found a great help to have
many of the accessories made of
materials that can be washed instead
of only possessing: laces and such
things that to look well must be dry
cleaned whenever soiled. Irish or any
linen thread lace, as filet, both real and
imitation, is really improved by soap
and water, whereas Valenciennes and
.ill silk laces, such as are often used
for yokes and collars, must be dry
Cleaned at no small cost. A white wash
crepe waist trimmed with Irish lace
will really save the difference in cost
for a college girl for whom even th«
laundry bill is a considerable item.
There are many times when the white
chamois glove can take the place of
glace kid. By washing gloves on the '
hand with a (rood white soap, and then,
after rinsing, giving them a final bath
in thick soapsuds before hanging 1 up to
dry, chamois gloves will outwear the
heaviest dogskin and will look smart
for any but the most formal occasions.
Whether the yellow or white chamois
gloves are really smartest depends upon
the color of the suit with which they
are worn. The yellow are somewhat
newer, but do not look nearly bo well
with some colors as the white or cream.
GIRLS' HANDKERCHIEFS
INITIAL embroidered handkerchiefs
of »heerest linen have barred and
fancifully edged borders and the let
ter framed in a wreath, medallion or
floral semicircle. A new fancy repre
sents a butterfly hovering over a rose,
with the tiny initial worked between
the insect's outspread wings and the
bilossonVs foliage.
Glove handkerchiefs for chopping* are
a third emaller than the Ordinary size
and made chiefly of flne lawn in white
bordered with a color or a color bor
dered with white. They rarely are em
broidered, but occasionally are seen
with a small initial woven into one
corner. While these small and com
paratively inexpensive handkerchiefs
are generally used for traveling: as well
as for shopping, it is a far better plan
for a tourist to have a supply of anti
septic paper handkerchiefs, which come
in compact little packages of six or a
dozen.
The San Francisco Sunday Caß
A Pleasant Place for the School Girl's Tea Table.
with flowers just above ft. Sometimes
it is prettier to have the color of the
china emphasized by the flowers used,
and again there are tea tables which
look their best when decorated with a
contrasting flower.
A pink and white tea table can harflly
have a prettier flower decoration than a
pink rose or a cluster of carnations In
the same color. Pink and white tulips
also look best on a pink and white tea
table. A branch of lilac In either white
or lavender or a pot of primroses adds a
delicate note of color to a pink and
white tea tahle also. The yellow tea
table may flourish daffodils now that
the daffodil season Is here, and the
lavender flowers or violets look beauti
ful on the yellow tea table, as do all
white flowers. For the ivory, tea table
there Is the American beauty rose par
ticularly, and almost any flowers except
the white ones, for a touch of color is
reeded on the Ivory tea table. Being
particular about one's flowers harmon
izing isn't at all a waste of time and
thought. It is these details that count
In creating any object of beauty, even
to a tea table, and a flower that Isn't
the right flower may detract exceed
ingly from the beauty of the most
perfect ensemble.
GIRLS who want their tea tables to
be popular with their friends al
ways try to have some special
things: to serve to their guests which
are not to be had everywhere. Ona girl
has received the warmest and most
sincere congratulations from her
friends this winter because her tea
table has been constantly furnished
with a particularly delicious cooky,
which she herself makes so perfectly
that her chums declare It is better than
any cake they can buy. Another girl
makes a point of always having some
thing unusual on her tea table. She
Smart Gloves
OUITE the smartest thing in gloves
for afternoon, whether the gown
be cloth or velvet, is a light tan.
For.evening white kid is still firm in»
its old place, but darker gloves are now
decreed for the daytime. Only a girl
who must furnish her own gloves from
her allowance will realize what a boon
this Is, for, apart from the fact
that to have her white gloves cleaned
after every wearing was such a large
item of expense, there was also the re
sult that from such frequent cleaning
the gloves wore out in a distressingly
>short time. Even if she cleaned them
herself they would wear out almost as
quickly, and only one who must save
her pennies by cleaning her own kid
gloves knows how very unpleasant a
piece of work this Is, and, with the
necessary tending of the hand* after
ward, how many hours in a day can be
spent at this task.
When tan gloves first came in again
for afternoon only suede was worn, but
now the smooth leather, which is so
much pleasanter to wear and lasts so
much longer, Is equally in favor. Long
gloyes for elbow sleeves, as well as the
short gloves, are fashionable in the
different shades of tan, but long dark
brown gloves will not lo«k smart, for
they are appropriate with an elaborate
waist, and only elaborate gowns have
short sleeves this season. Even with a
dark brown cloth or corduroy gown
gloves of the palest shade of tan are
worn, but with a street dress in the
morning the heavy dogskin and pig
skin gloves are of a darker tone than
usual.
The exact shade for a tan glove must
naturally be determined principally by
the color of the costume which it com
plements, and the shades to be had are
graded in color from palest coffee to
deep ecru, with every tone of corn color,
mustard, yellow, gold, champagne and a
score of others in between. There is
no color of which a gown can be built
explores foreign shops for extraor
dlbary confections of all sorts. The
Japanese and Chtnese bakers have-sup
plied her with a variety and In some
cases rather good tea cakes and sweets.
The Italian shops have also been called
upon to render tribute to this girl's tea
table, and indeed so valiantly has she
kept up her search for unusual eat
ables that not a week has gone by since
the season begalt without bringing: to
her table something which most of
her friends had never tasted before.
Particularly fine candled grape, fruit
has been the attraction of one very
popular girl's tea table this winter, ard
another has always had on hand some \
very good wafers made of chocolate and
ginger. There are so many small shops
nowadays which make a specialty of
certain particularly good wafers and
cakes and there are so many novelties
of this sort being constantly put on the
market that aglrl who wishes to take the
trouble will have no difficulty at all In
always finding something very new and
very good to serve with the afternoon
tea and chocolate.
One thing that one should not over
look when one is arranging a tea table
is the proper disposition of the table
and the chairs about It. A tea table
should exude suggestions of comfort
from every side, and unless It does so
It is a miserable failure. Jt should oc
cupy an out of the way corner which
looks as if.it were especially meant
to hold it, and around it there should
be comfortable chairs which positively
entreat the guests to linger for another
cup. Then, above all things, It should
look as if it were merely an ornament
called Into use on rare occasions. If
the tea table is of this comfortable sort
It will breathe a generous hospitality
upon all who como within the sphere
of its dainty and potent influence.
with which one of the soft tan tones
will not harmonize and look better than
hard white. White gloves, of course,
may look attractively trim and neat
when first put on, but 10 minutes later
will have lost their beautiful whiteness,
and even dark brown will look better
with the lightest shade of costume than
soiled white. Black gloves are smart
only in the morning and must never be
worn with anything but black. "With a
street costume, no matter how dark a
shade, there will be some ton* of brown
leather or gray suede or castor that
will look better than black.
, White and yellow wash gloves will be
worn straight through the spring with
all morning costumes, and while these
gloves soil too quickly to give any com
fort when a muff Is carried, they are
altogether the best for warm weather,
and they are certainly the most practi
cal of all light gloves.
In cleaning: gloves it will be found a
great savin* of labor to soak them first
for a few hours In a bowl of kerosene,
from which they should be placed di
rectly Into another bowl of naphtha.
The kerosene helps to remove the stains
and softens the leather, while the naph
tha then removes the grease of the oil.
Gloves should never be cleaned in a
room lighted at night by gas, for the
fumes of the fluid have been known to
remain in a room some hours after the
naphtha itself has been taken away
and disastrous flres have resulted. The
gloves while soaking should be kept
outside the wlnaow and should always
be cleaned in the morning, so that the
room can be well aired before dark*
when the lights In the house are lit. If
the gloves are left to soak over night
in their bowl of naphtha they will clean
much more easily. Steam heat will
evaporate the odor of naphtha In a
■wonderfully short time, and gloves that
can be* placed i^pon a steam radiator
will never have the disagreeable smell
that often makes cleaned glove* so un
pleasant to wear.