The San Francisco call. [volume], April 30, 1911, Image 13

About The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
A Page for
Misses
THE maid of today contends that
the youths of her acquaintance
dance so ill that she would rather
far "trip it on the light fantastic
Aith any one of her girl chums
iha n spend the same amount of time
. vainly to teach the mysteries of
-amlike "Boston" to one who has
t!<> more Idea of time than he has of
«pwlne—and hence the dove cotillon.
The popularity of this form of "hen
at the moment should teach a
lesson to the members of the stronger
xrx that if they would keep their firm
position In the hearts of the girls whom
they know they bad better one and all
iv become followers of that
rluirmlns muse—Terpsichore.
A dove cotillon is exactly like an or
dinary cotillon except that all the danc
ers are girls, and also except that some
Birls insist that It is infinitely prefer
able to the other kind of cotillon, when
without a partner one feels disgraced
for libs and when If once in an evening
one Is "stuck" with the one partner
beyond the fatal five minute limit one
knows that all hopes of ever again be
ins asked to dance by that particular
lad are over.
There are no "«tags" at a dove cotil
lon, so the Idea of the old fashioned
crman Is strictly carried out —so many
couples dancing at a time and then
changing partners at a given signal to
double the number of dancers on the
floor. The number taken out by the
loader must be fegulated by the size of
the room in which the dance Is held,
and If the cotillon Is carefully managed
every girl will have unexampled oppor
tunity to enjoy a good afternoon or
evening of actual dancing. It is said
that boy* spoil all possibility of a real
cotillon, for nowadays they refuse to
obey their leader and ask the girls to
dance and cut Into a figure whenever
the fancy leads them. At a dove cotil
lon all rules and regulations of the ger
man can be enforced, for the girls go to
the party for the p^ure pleasure of
dancing and would rather remain seat
ed occasionally In order to more fully
enjoy their dance when their turn ar
rives to be taken out.
There should, of course, be an even
number of guests, but even If there
should chance to be one partnerless girl
she will not mind In the least, and she
should be allowed to "cut In" with an
other girl's partner at least once each
round. All the familiar figures are
danced at a dove cotillon, and they ■will
be found to be every bit as amusing
and pretty to watch as when there are
boys to be continually quieted and
taught the Intricacies of the games,
which the girls aeem to learn Instinct
ively the moment the leader Introduces
this novel feature of the program.
-«-~ FTE favors for cotillons cost in
I ratio with the ingenuity, resource
fulness and cleverness of the host
ess. From a roll of crepe paper, some
bargain bolts of ribbon and perhaps a
dozen sheets of cardboard can easily be
manufactured a collection of favors,
with a separate set for each figure.
Favors do not require to be costly to be
effective, although to combine effect
Refurbishing Last Year’s
Parasols
NOW is the time to look over the
stock of parasols stored about the
house and see what can be done
toward their rejuvenation. While
there are several absolutely new
shapes In sunshades clamoring for at
tention, quite as many of the coach
ing and other conventional styles are
to be used next summer, and if a girl
has a collection of these left over from
former years she would better liter
ally spread them at full width and see
what can be done with them.
To make a cover for an old parasol
Is not an easy task. No matter how
carefully each section of the new
spread is patterned after the original,
It 13 difficult to fit it accurately and
make it appear other than the work
of ato amateur. Therefore any sun
k shade spread that is not an absolute
wreck should be kept intact. If a
white or light colored silk parasol is
not too badly soiled it may usually
be satisfactorll with French
chalk; but if, after a trial, it is found
that the spots can not be eradicated
rather than throw away the article
make the experiment of a chiffon or
dotted net veiling.
Whichever transparent material is
c chosen should be one and a half the
size of the foundation, and before try
ing to adjust it to the I
hole through which the tip of the fer
rule protrudes should have its raw
edges stayed on to a narrow strip of
silk and then buttonhole embroidered.
Some very charming looking new par
asols are of flounced white chiffon
tltcbed with gold thread. These
are more easily evolved by the ama
ie veiled effects, as to
put on the two or three flounces evenly
it is only necessary to measure the
;<-es between top and edge of
■ftrei irk them with dark
• wiled or flounced idea
of 'Jark blue
Own, with or witiiout a touch of
■ I if a girl
.. d =,: indmoth
with serviceableness is more difßcult,
yet well within the limits of the pos
sible.
All kinds of bags—and there is an in
finite variety of choice—make an effec
tive figure slung over the arm of the
dancer, and there is no size or shape of
bag which can not be put to use. If
tiny, a silk bag is just what is wanted
by every girl for her underwear rib
bons, and if large It 'will be put into
immediate ua« to keep the stockings
before they are darned. An attractive
bag can be fashion?d from a cheap
straw hat frame, which, if white or
some pretty light color, a girl can easily
convert into a nice hat for gardening
or, perhaps, for tennis, when a wide
brim Is desired.
At the moment there is a craze for all
the little boxea for powder and pins and
for veil, handkerchief, cravat and belt
cases, covered with cretonne or even
wall paper, and these things make ex
tremely pretty favors. I£ there is time
to prepare for one's dance great fun
can be had in working out novelties in
this line, but the cases and boxes, such
as those pictured, are none of thetn ex
pensive to buy.
Cotillon favors should bear some ref
erence to the season, and there should
be at least one favor figure where all
exchange on the floor, and each dalQcr
receives a gift that will last after the
pretty but perishable paper trinkets
have had to be thrown away.
A novel favor to be fashioned either
of metal or silver Is a small desk file
and paper weight combined, used as a
ribbon and pin holder. On the base
should be markefl the date of the enter
tainment, so that this party may be
brought back to mind whenever the
weight is used, whether in its original
capacity or as a file. A roll of pink or
blue baby ribbon is first stuck on the
long pin and then one of the small
square cubes of assorted colored veil
pins is placed above it.
Files of this description can be
bought in metal for a few cents and
then covered to look most attractive.
Another novelty Is one of the tiny
electric lights for the traveling bag.
This light is not more than 1%x3 inches
and in a cover of dainty cretonne or
ribbon makes a most acceptable gift.
Scarfs are always to be advocated for
favors, first, because they look so at
tractive in the ballroom thrown care
lessly over the shoulders and floating
with the motion of the dancer, and, sec
ond, because it is never possible to own
too many scarfs. A bolt of chiffon or
mousseline de sole bought wholesale
will not be very expensive, and it is
easy to cut the piece into even lengths
and flrtish the ends with a tassel of
sewing silk or beads. Cotton voile
makes exceedingly pretty scarfs and
there is no material more fashionable
at the moment.
MOTOR veils are also given nowa
days as favors and will meet with
approval whenever bestowed.
But it is the dainty things made of
wall paper and crepe paper which are,
after all, the most effective and which
a girl can fashion for herself, provided
er's black sunshade she may veil it
with black, white or magpie striped
marquisette.
Sometimes the upper half of a silk
sunshade is in perfect condition, while
the lower portion is badly soiled. In
this case It is a good idea to apply a
wide border of some contrasting- shade,
color or design. With a magpie striped
top, a border of black satin enlivened
with Persian" figures is most effective,
and on a plain pongee an oriental de
sign in silk is good. Wide black vel
vet ribbon makes a stunning border
for almost any sunshade of pale hued
silk or satin, and it lends so rich an
effect to even a medium priced article
that many girls are buying new ones
and dressing them up with bows and
borderlngs.
The new mandarin, oriental and can
opy sunshades are so very smart that
it will pay a girl to buy a plain one
and trim it. Any of these novelty
shapes may be improved with a dainty
frill of silk, lace or net set around
the edge of the spread, and if the
sunshade is intended solely for garden
party service the edging may be of
rosebuds, daisies or violets.
A handsome parasol handle is a val
uable wardrobe asset and should be
;ef uliy preserved as a piece of
jewelry or good"lace. Those of carved
oiled and rubbed to
bring out their graining; silver and
gold polished, Ivory and pearl cleaned
and bleached and jeweled or tortoise
shell sticks taken to a Jeweler to be
rejuvenated.
If a girl can afford only two new sun
shades she will get the most satisfac
tion from a really handsome sun um
brella of the folding type, which is
easily carried in a suit case and looks
well with any street costume. Then,
for formal occasions she may buy one
of the new smart shapes in plain white
silk or satin, attach bows of gibbon
or sprays of flowers to its white enam
vood handle and veil or trim the
spread according to individual fancy.
she is given sufficient time to prepare
for her party. Every possible article
for the desk or bureau can be fashioned
of paper, and a desk set of blotter, cal
endar, pen tray and engagement pad
can be given piece by piece through
different figures. A novelty in this line
is a pocket telephone register. About
three inches square, this pad is com
posed of 26 sheets of lettered pages for
the eniry of the telephone numbers of
one's friends. On each "side Is a pretty
paper cover.
From a long-, thin glass flask can be
made an attractive hatpin holder. The
glass is covered with a binding of rib
bon adorned at the top with a large
paper or silk rose. Silk pin and jewel
cases are sure to be welcomed with de
Practical Talks by the April Grandmother
and eyebrows nearly
r always are responsible for the
remark that this or that young
woman has a face nke a flower," re
marked the April Grandmother, when
her three young descendants had con
cluded their "ravings" anent the ex
traordinary beauty of a new acquaint
ance.
"When we believe that we are look
ing at a woman's or a girl's entire face,
we actually are chiefly taking in the
ensemble of the upper third of. it and
have only a vague idea that the other
two-thirds is pleasing. Consequently
if its owner has a merely passable set
of features and a fairly good complex
ion she may quite safely pose as a
beauty when, as a matter of fact, she
would be considered absolutely plain
were her eyelashes and eyebrows thin
and pale—briefly, anaemic—instead of
thick and dark.
"While handsome eyelashes and eye
brows are a characteristic feature in
some families," continued the April
Grandmother, "by patient endeavor
they may—like a taste set for art or
olives—be acquired, but to simulate
them by means of pigment will no more
deceive the public than will a purchased
gallery of ancestors or an assumed
coat of arms.
"If for no other reason than that
they permit dust to enter the eyes,
thin eyelashes are a misfortune, and
the first step toward effecting a reform
is to learn why the lashes are not more
luxuriant. It may be that the lids are
inflamed or encrusted, and in that case
they should be examined by a physi
cian, who probably will prescribe some
lotion to be used via an eye cup. In
any event the eyelids which are sparse
ly fringed with hair will be the better
for an eye cup bath solution of a
small quantity of salt water, as that
sort of treatment wll^ more effectually
remove any germs which may have
lodged against the rims about the eyes
than is done during the process of
washing the face.
"The girl who acts upon the advice
regularly to clip the tips of the eye
lashes in order to promote their growth
may live to repent of her rashness
A DOVE COTILLON
light by the fortunate recipients, while
a large artificial flower with a sachet
hidden in Its heart is an attractive
favor of a dove cotillon.
Sweets are invariably received with
joy, and tiny boxes of candy can be
every time that a mirror reflects her
stubbily fringed lids. It is quite pos
sible that by such treatment thin eye
lashes may be reformed, but aside from
the menace to the sight by the scissor
points there is always the chance that
the hair on the lids has grown as much
as nature ever intended it to, so that
the last state of the eyelashes may be
indefinitely more deplorable than was
the first one.
"Train the eyebrows in the shape
they should go even while coaxing
them to grow thicker and darker,"
urged the April Grandmother. "And
the first point to decide is what that
shape shall be. Of course the thread
like arch Is charming, but they belong
properly to delicately cut features and
would look out of place above a thick,
blunt nose and a square chin. Conse
fluently the girl who is cultivating
brows should study the general shape
of those she already haß and in brush
ing them daily with a scrap of velvet
dipped in warm sweet oil, lanolin or
vaseline should take care to keep to
the original outline. When the brows
have become sufficiently heavy these
applications may temporarily cease,
but a strict watch should be main
tained upon their conditioners the new
hairs may begin to fall otlt, especially
if any dandruff attacks their roots.
"When one eyebrow is noticeably
thinner than the other it is nearly al
ways because the owner of it custom
arily sleeps upon that side and buries
her face In her pillow. This habit must
be abruptly abandoned, otherwise any
lotion applied will prove Ineffectual and
the victim on her Journey through the
world will give everybody whom she en
counters the uncomfortable impression
that there is an indefinable something
wrong with her'face.
"The girl who is conscious that her
eyelashes and eyebrows are exception
ally attractive should beware of con
tracting eye mannerisms." The April
Grandmother carefully avoided looking
at her second granddaughter, whose
face suddenly was suffused with blushes.
"There is nothing more vulgar than the
infantile gaze, the downward glance or
the dying cat' glower from between
long, thick, dark fringed lids. Look
with wide eyed frankness straight into
the face of friend and foe," concluded
the April Grandmother, "whether your
lashes and brows are thin and sandy or
as thick and dark as* those of the girl
who has a face like a flower—and, I
hope, a soul like a flower."
Uses of Orange Peel
ORANGE skins (generally consid
ered useless) can be ued in two
ways that will give much pleas
ure. Any girl who wants to have
something a little out of the common
for a luncheon party, or who wants to
make a very small gift, but one that
shows some real work her own, can
accomplish either object by making
candied orange peel. Not by buying
it at the confectioner's, where plenty
of it is sold, but by doing it herself.
The candied orange peel is made at
home and used while fresh is so far
superior to that one can buy that It
seems like quite another thing.
It can be maje of- the skin of an
orange that has been peeled and used
In any way, but rather a smooth skin
should be chosen, and it must be used
before it becomes at all hard and dry.
The first thing to do is to scrape off
with a knife as much as possible of
the white inner skin. Keep on scraD
ing until the skin is quite thin and
the back shows the yellow. Then cut
the pieces of skin Into strips one quar
ter of an inch vt?de and from jone and
a half to two Inches long. •
Now comes the cooking, which Is
done in the following manner: In a
small saucepan full of water dissolve 8
three tablespoonfuls of sugar and put
in your strips of peel. Boil them un
til the water boils away, leaving a
thick syrup. During the latter part of
this process it must be carefully
watched and stirred to prevent burn
ing. Next take the peel from the
saucepan and roll it in powdered
sugar; then put the pieces on plates to
dry, not piled up, but in single layers.
The orange peel is best on the first or
second day after it is made, and it must
be used within a week or it will grow
too hard. A dainty box filled with
this orange peel makes a very at
tractive gift, or, If one is sending some
really handsome box (a silver one or
an enamel or carved one), an added
pleasure will be given by flllinj it
with candied orange peel made by the
giver.
The San Francisco Sunday Call
New Designs in Sewing
Aprons
AN attractive contribution for a fair
is one of the new designs in sew
ing aprons. Nothing could be less
expensive to make or simple of con
struction than one of these apfons,
which consists of a straight piece of
sheer dimity about a half by three
quarters of a yard Jn dimensions.
Twenty-two inches is a good length in
order to allow for a deep hem at the
end and for a one'inch hem at the top.
Three-quarters of a yard will give more
than enough for^ the material to be
gathered in at the top and cover the
skirt of the frock sufficiently. Instead
of gathering the top of the apron to a
band a one inch ribbon is simply run
through the top hem. this ribbon left
long enough to tie in a pretty bow
knot at the back, with streamers to
hang down over the skirt.
To trim this apron—which would be
too plain without any adornment—a
row of cross bar stitching in a simple
but pretty design worked at the top
of the hem and perhaps bordering It
down each side will be extremely ef
fective, provided the design is worked
out in artistic coloring. One little pat
tern of the same design must then be
worked upon the tiny pocket: for on
every sewing apron ther* is a pocket.
One apron of this model was embroi
dered In an extremely simple cross
stitch in blue and. red, while on the
pocket was a tiny basket in the same
cross stitch. The ribbon about the
waist was the extht color of the deep
blue in the embroidery cotton.
If one is fond of knitting, an apron
with a deep pocket the width of the
material will be most useful. This
apron is fashioned by simply turning up
a deep hem and fastening it only at
each side, the hem of course being
turned back against the outside of the
material. This pocket is sometimes di
vided in the center with a row of
feather stitching, so that when two
'different skeins of wool are being used
in the same piece. of work they can be
kept separate, yet at the same time
conveniently together. These aprons are
bought for as little as 5 or 10 cents. 'CTk
the boxes in which the candies are sold
are plain and ugly they can easily be
made beautiful with crepe paper.
The modern girl loves to have a box
and case for every conceivable article
in her boudoir, and a set of favors cone
posed simply of empty boxes of (ffrter
ent sizes with pretty pink, blue an«».
flowered wall paper covers is excellent.
Plain white boxes can be bought just
ready to cover, and to do this is fun
rather than a task. These same boxes
covered with chintz or silk would make
beautiful covers, but of course the ma
terial is far more expensive than paper.
Odd pieces of ribbon are sure to come
In useful to trim a hat or make some
novel articles for a fair or for a Christ
mas gift, so one round of favors com
posed of yard strips of ribbon of bright
shade, ended perhaps with little bells to
tinkle as the dancers carry them about
the room, should be allowed for. This
ribbon can be of good quality, but the
effect will be much the same In th»
very cheapest ribbon. The bright col
ored satin and taffeta bows which girls
now wear to finish off their low collars
at the throat make exceedingly attrac
tive favors, with safety pin attached
ready to fasten the bow to the gown
at once.
ANYTHING that can be worn Is at
tractive at a dove cotillon. A band
of black velvet for the neck
adorned with tiny artificial rosebuds is
a charming novelty, and is pretty also
carried out in colored velvet with a row
of for-get-me-nots in place of the roses.
A'halr ornament composed of a band
of velvet ribbon, preferably pale pink,
blue or lightest green, with a cluster of
tiny flowers at each end, makes a favor
that every girl in the room will want.
But to make of a dove cotillon a charm
ing picture In the ballroom there must
be some few favors for Just ornament
alone. The long wands with a great
paper rose and long paper streamers at
the top are exceedingly effective when
there are a number together. A 10 inch
•tinsel butterfly poised at the top 'of a
yard long gilded stick lights up well
for an evening dance. For a really in
expensive figure a large palmleaf fan
such as can be bought for a penny of
any vender will be most effective with
a cluster of three large paper roses tied
to it in a band of ribbon. Fans are
good to provide for one figure, since so
many girls forget to bring their own
fans with them that it is well also to
have the fan figure among the first on
the evening's program.
Gift mottoes can be used In one fig
ure, and the girls will have great fun
pulling the snappers to get at the paper
hats inside.
Instead of a theatrical performance
dove cotillons are already being worked
over in many girls' schools and colleges
for the entertainment which the senior
class gives annually to the undergrad
uates. Pads, pencils, boxes of pens, |'
erasers tied with pretty ribbon, and
then papers of pins made attractive by
pretty paper pasted over the original
ugly cover are among the useful favora
which are being collected by the girls
for their dances. In amateur theatricals
there is the certainty of the actors
passing a delightful evening, but th«
surety of those invited to look having a
happy time is more doubtful. A cotil
lon, even a most elaborately planned
one, will not be half the trouble or half
the expense of the simplest amateur
play, and then it is certain that every
guest will enjoy a thoroughly good
time.
The cotillon may be further elabor
ated into a fancy dress or masked ball,
a form of party that has had a great
revival of interest this last year.
Perhaps the girl ■who has never been
away to boarding school or college does
not realize what fun can be had from a
dove party, but Just let her try giving a.
girls' cotillon and see if she is not won
over to believe that wherever else they
may be needed, boys are by no means
essential to enjoyment at a dance.
made sometimes of flowered muslin, and
are exceedingly pretty also in colored
lawn or dimity.
There never can be too many work
bags or boxes for one who Js fond of
sewing or knitting, and this Is why the
work bags are always the first articles
to disappear" at a fair. All sizes and
shapes of boxes suitable for hair pins,
manicure sets, hat pins, powder, etc.,
will, If attractively covered, sell witli
astonishing rapidity. With a cigar box,
by dividing it into various compart
ments, quite wonderful things can b«
done, while the way in which chintz or
silk covered powder boxes and bottles
will find delighted purchasers will in
themselves almost insure the success of
the whole fair if provided in sufficient
quantity.
A potpourri jOr salt Jar is also a
popular novelty of the moment. The
new potpourri Jars are low square
glass bottles with large openings, so
that when the glass stoppers «re re
moved the pungent o.lor of delicious
lavender salts will nt once nil th«
entire room. The salts should b»
encased In cotton wadding, lest thef
dry up too quickly. The bottle should
have a cover of brocade bound with
narrow gold braid, with perhaps a
small French print as a medallion in
each «We, A medallion should also be
pasted in the top of the stopper and
Inside the glass, where it will show
through without rubbing off every time
the bottle Is handled. Ordinary paper
books of white pins, silk 0* chintz co*»
ered, will also bring in a hnnflsornw
advance on their cost. A set of toilet
articles, all covered in the same piece
of brocade or cretonne, should bring
a gooJ price. This set will Include the
small box of nose powder, the larger
bottle of talcum, a Jar of tooth pow
der, a cologne bottle, a little tin box
* for sap, a book of pins, needle book,
work bag, chamois lined Jewel case,
small bag for ribbon, for the lingerie,!
and so on through an almost indeflnk/k
list as long as the ingenuity of the
maker and the materials at her com
mand last. __