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The JOYS OF COUNTRY WALKING
.A. Pa6i> For. ■o. Mi*s.ae,s. * «Packing Up the Knapsack After Luncheon in the Woods fa -j TRAVELERS along the country I roads in the vicinity the country roads in the vicinity of New York I have discovered that the girl pedestrian Is abroad in the land and making most of the summer sun shine and fresh air. They meet her more frequently on the banks of the Hudson river and Just over the border In Connecticut, where seminaries and fashionable finishing schools for future debutantes crown almost every hill top. „ Sometimes aha la accompanied by five or alx of her school friends, in charge of a teacher who has a fond ness for pedestrlanlsm. At other times there Is an entire class of them, with several teachers. Now and then you see two or three school girls tramping along byways and highways, with the guide and chaperon ever on guard. For this is the season of year when every girl who has a touch of gypsy blood, In her veins throws aside the ac coutrements of her fashionable life and becomes a wanderer again, roving over hills and along unfamiliar paths, trying to forget that civilization has made three formal meals a day a habit and changes of costume equally regu lar and Important. .The girl pedestrian, as you come upon her unexpectedly In this more or less effete section of the land where the majority of her sex prefer to take their outings and get fresh air and sunshine from the luxurious cushions of a motor car, reminds you a little of the picturesque western type. At least ■he suggests your mental conception of what the free and untrammeled western type should be. The fashionable girl pedestrian for gets for once that she is a model of all that la elegant In attire and revels In the unconventional costume which Is considered by her teachers the suitable one for long country walks. She in troduces Into It a Jaunty note which makes her fit Into any landscape, whether it be of budding orchards, the dark green of mountain foliage or the smoothly polished roads consecrated to automobllists. "For this holiday we will take a 20 mile walk," announced the teacher of a pedestrian class the other day. "Twenty miles!" exclaimed as many girls' voices. "Why, we could never do that!" "Yes, you can," the gymnasium In structor assured them. "We'll take two aays to It, and I'm sure you will all come back to school eager to make it twice that distance the next time." ' This class was one that had been taking a preparatory walking course •during the winter arid early spring Talks by the April Grandmother *'f T ATS were invented by Satan for , r~j the destruction of feminine hair," remarked the April grandmother as she and her granddaughters emerged from a fashionable milliner's shop. "This afternoon you three girls have tried on at least 30 hats, and, In my opinion, every one of those 'creations' had an objectionable feature from a hygienic standpoint. Obviously hats which cover the head fr,om the nape ©f the neck to the brow and absolutely conceal the ears can not be good for the hair of their wearers, since they prevent the air from reaching any por tion of , the scalp, and It Is the scalp which furnishes life and" health to the only covering designed 'by nature for the head. "Fortunately it will not be necessary for any of you to wear whichever of those lock destroying hats you may elect to buy during every hour of every day of the coming summer. An 1t is also fortunate that by means of va rious sorts of hair baths you will be able to mitigate the mischief that will certainly be done by those close fitting ►enacts. "Air baths for the head are the sim plest of all remedies for '11 used hair. These baths should be taken the first thing in the morning—even before get ting Into the tub—by : standing before an open window and letting the fresh, pure air blow through the loosened locks; "'iPtlPßliill'i liiiillWiff&iro "Wind baths are a luxury possible only to the city dweller who has a pri vate roof on which she may parade, or to the country dweller who owns a se cluded yard where she. may prance about In the sunshine while the wind blows wildly among her unconflned tresses. These two elements , are \ ex cellent tonics for the hair; but one that is still better Is the evening Surf treat ment, which must be sought after sun set on an ocean beach. There Is some thing about the saline dampness that is very beneficial to the hair, and" con fessed the April grandmother, "some of those . evenings last - summer when you assumed that a headache was keep months, and gradually the walks were being lengthened until from three or four miles the girls had been led to cover a distance of eight or ten miles. But a two days' walking tour seemed beyond their powers of endurance and something unheard of. However, like the well trained soldiers they were, to hear was to obey, and they promptly got their/costumes In order and learned how to plan and pack for a two days' tour which might take them to a farmhouse or a village inn for the night. THE costume for walking which has been adopted by this school Is one of the best of Its kind. A short khaki skirt, made to button at the side front and a blouse of pongee silk, which sheds the dust and is cool, form the principal parts. Under the 'skirt the girl walker wears a pair of tan colored silk bloomers, which are cool and comfortable to move about In and to climb hills or fences, if such ob stacles present themselves. Another walking class composed of school girls has chosen wood brown corduroy as the most serviceable and becoming outfit for both winter and summer wear. This material is not too heavy, and It has a body to it that recommends it for wear during change able seasons. With the corduroy skirt these girls wear a brown linen blouse which is soft and cool, is cut away at the throat and has a loose, flowing tie of scarlet or brown silk. It is much easier to walk with the throat free and unconfined, as any girl will discover If she tries doing several miles in a stiff . linen collar and tie. The collar interferes with the breath ing, and eventually makes each mile, after the first two or three, seem twice its real length. Short sleeves are preferred by the experienced walker, although she usually has her blouse made with Ion;? ones which are wide enough to be rolled up at will. A belt is important, but when separate and of leather it will be found to add to the weight of the costume and be much warmer than a narrow stitched belt of the skirt material which is fastened firmly to the skirt and does not require adjust ing. Sailor costumes are excellent and at- i tractive for young girls to wear, espe cially when made of khaki Instead of white duck. White soils too quickly' for long walking trips, but will do very well for shorter ones. It is only after a girl has walked several miles in one Of these sailor blouses nd skirts that she realizes the wisdom of having it ing me In my own room I actually spent on a secluded portion of the beach In company with my maid—both of us treating our fading and thinning locks to a surf wind bath. "Water baths for the hair are not to be confused with the ordinary sham poos. They are much simpler, and any girl can give one to herself. The tepid water should be softened with a little borax, the head plunged into" it until thoroughly saturated and the scalp gently massaged with the finger tips. Then the hair should ; be rinsed with cold water and dried by being briskly rubbed with a Turkish towel. This treatment removes considerable dust from the locks, wakes up the skin on the scalp and Is generally invigorating to the hair. snssßsJßlßMMMlilffl "Cornmeal baths should be given the hair at least once a week during the summer, for the particles of 'dust and sand which settle upon the head seem to be attracted toward the meal as toward a magnet, and are shaken from the locks with It. The,meal bath may, at the same time, be the perfume bath, if some orris powder is mixed with it. Another sort of perfume bath la ef fected by spraying the hair with orange flower or violet water and allowing It to dry in the sun, meanwhile running the fingers through, the locks from roots to. ends, so that they!" shall not become too much tangled :to ':.. be smoothed without the aid of a brush. "The necessity for using "any sort of brush is the chief objection to bathing the hair with a liquidfor I believe that these toilet utensils are ruinous to the locks, and i they "certainly are not hygienic unless • thoroughly . cleansed each day. Nor should the comb be used too vigorously. '-.; Make the fingers do as much; of * the work as possible, and if the hair Is very. unruly their tips may be dampened with a . few drops of cocoanut oil. This will promptly re duce them to order and will .produce the glossiness of surface and the fine ness 'of texture which are character-' istic of the locks of a well groomed gentlewoman." ~ made with a deep square flannel collar across her ■ shoulders, preventing her cooling too quickly as she rests in the shade at the end of a long stretch of road. THE essential point .about-a hat Is Its lightness. Although the average everyday hat weighs several ounces, the walking hat should be kept down to less than a. pound in weight. Or- Making Lingerie a Fascinating Occupation MAKING lingerie is so fascinating an occupation for idle moments that many young girls keep some such garments always at hand In lieu of the more conventional "flat" em broidery. Of course the petticoats of yesteryear will not do at all with the present nar row skirts. The new ones, which in nearly all instances Include a corset cover and are actually princess slips, are made of the sheerest of handker cnief. linen, batiste, dimity or mull. They measure scarcely a yard and three-quarters at the hem, fit smoothly about the hips, and. by a narrow waist band are joined to a low, round necked corset cover without darts and have Just sufficient fullness to be comfort able. While the princess slip closes at the back, the top of the corset cover portion Is drawn 'up with ribbons that tie in front and are run through . a series of buttonhole embroidered ' silts rather than through a beading. One reason why beading is suffering an eclipse Is that It does not accord with the hand work which Is seen ;on lingerie of the highest class. Most girls of refined taste prefer to • have . their lingerie of the finest materials and merely edged with hand embroidery and perhaps a delicate^ vine pattern than to use yards of limitation Valenciennes or Cluny which quickly tears out. While nearly a\l' of these ; lingerie slips have knee flounces they are so shaped and so scant that the straight line effect of the frock worn above them la not Jeop ardized. Sometimes the lower -edge of. this flounce is flfl.Bhed to match the corset cover top, but usually a wide hem stitching suffices,' while the broad ' pink, blue, yellow or white ribbon at the top is run through wide eyelets In such a way that one edge covers the top of the flounce. Very dainty princess slips of this sort have : tops jof narrow muslin embroidery flouncing, inverted, and skirts trimmed with the wider flouncing set on normally and headed with ribbon WIT Is a Whole- A-^some Outdoor Fad of Young ; Who Are learning to Take Twenty i Mile "Hikes'' ' dinary straw hats are heavy and awk ward, ! but a light weight Panama or West Indian fiber hat will' never be noticed when ( carried on the head for hours at a time.' A simple trimming, consisting of a light weight silken scarf or a pugree wound in native style, will be found effective and suit able. Too wide a hat brim is difficult to manage In windy weather. A me dium width will provide all the shade • uucjavia i-iiuiiuiuni'u uiruuKii mo top edge of the "flounce as well as through the skirt to which it is applied. Skirt and corset cover princess or one, piece slips of white China silk or crepe are equally, as. plain as those of the lingerie class, to which they -properly • belong, since they are equally launder - able. These, however, rarely are seal- ; lop edged. Instead, the necks and arm holes are bordered - with wash ribbon and the flounce "finished with groups of fine tucks. Especially to go with traveling dresses,. every girl should have several slips of gray or brown mercerized cot ton or of natural colored linen. These need only be . finished about the neck, armholes and lower edge of the flounce with hand embroidered scalloping matching the color of .the dark ' hued ribbon- runners and equipped with ; a safety pocket. New pantalons are apron shaped. They are of knee length and have* extra wide legs which curve half way to the thigh, and * from ' there . are seamed to within four inches of the waistband, which' buttons at: either side after' the manner of a little girl's drawers. These garments are finished similarly .to the petticoat -corset-cover princess and In stead of the ribbons running through eyelets, they are bowknotted at the point where the trouser leg merges Into the; side seam. To cut this pantalon shape the front half about a third larger than "an ordinary oval "tea" apron and the back half about twice as wide at the top as Is the first piece, but of equal size elsewhere. Then lay. the edges of the two sections evenly together and to the depth of.six inches hollow out the lower center to form the , Inside Beams of the legs. The front is attached with out gathers .to* the waistband, while" the back necessarily Is fulled on to it. Another s pantalon, designed to be worn directly beneath; a rather; heavy frock, is the very full knickerbocker, which has '.bands fastening below the knees arid these In turn have ruffles of Hill Climbing within Alpine Stick required, while it can he rolled off the face when desired" or drawn "down to shield the eyes from a glare.;. ■ After all, the dress and the hat are far lei important than tho footwear upon which the girl's powers of pedes trlanlsm depend even* more than on her physical strength to walk four miles an hour. The shoes should be selected with the greatest care. They should fit perfectly and should have wide, flat heels, broad toes and thick soles. The pebbles and sharp pointed rocks that are constantly lug in wait for the un protected walker will pierce the or dinary sole almost like a knife. Button boots are comfortable to walk- In, although many experienced pedes trians prefer laced boots because the laces can be tightened or loosened,as desired while the button oftos must re main the same. Half^shoes may ho cooler for summer wear, but they give no support to, the*ankles and tire the walker much sooner than high boots do. Tan la a more serviceable color than black, as it does not show the dust so readily. HOSIERY for walking is equally as Important as shoes, and after two or three trrps* the pedestrian who covers eight or ten miles a day soon learns that something has to be done hand embroidered self-material or of muslin embroidery. In direct contrast to the "knlcks" are the little pantalons that are absolutely devoid of fullness and'fit almost closely from waist to knee. These never are ruffled, but have a scalloped edging or a hemstitching. Very few girls favor even the palest of colored lingerie materials for skirts, corset covers, slips or pantaloons, but quite a number of them like night dresses of fancy dimity, marquisette,, organdy or dotted swiss with delicate pink, blue, green or yellow figure, stripe or dot. The easiest model to make, is the kimono sleeved affair, which is drawn on over the head. This garment, cut in two pieces, usually has seams from .throat to elbows and from armpits to hem, unless the material Is very narrow, in which case side gores must be Introduced. The empire night dress consists of. two widths of material attached ; Just below the arms to a square neckecl combination deep, yoke and elbow sleeves of muslin embroidery or finely tucked ' mull. -..Wf&SSP^SUm : The-girdle' of wide ribbon Is, run through eyelets an Inch below tho yoke, and other ribbons are . run [ through. the upper edge ■'■ of rthe part covering the shoulders. "Given a ,little more fulness at' the sides this garment answers per fectly for a dressing room- negligee. Made of crepe, > which . need > not be ironed, any of these garments are Ideal for *' the ■'. traveler, -as -.- they, take ' up . scarcely, any space -In' the luggage.;. The model having the - side * gores, ilf - devel oped <in pongee, natural linen/colored crepe, China silk ior foulard, makes an infinitely 1 more modest looking negligee i for, a traveler than jdoes the' kimono, since its; only opening is 'at - the "f neck, similar to Ithe kimono night dress. .-. Girls who expect to do much travel ing during; the summer should .have at; least four, sets of crepe- underwear. ' In a strange place ; It' is ; not always possi ble to get fine ; starched pieces done promptly, '.whereas anyj hotel maid will undertake to wash out and Miry a mod erate ' amount of; crepe '.i lingerie. ; ; The only really practical undergarments, for the four days' trip across the continent are those 'of black \ China silk -bordered with a -colored wash ribbon. By •: pin ning these at night to the inside of the berth J curtains ; they t -will \ be ,* sufficiently aired by the > next morning ;i to ;be ! com fortably worn. to the heels to keep them from rubbing and blistering. An English army officer of worldwide reputation had his men soap,the heel of their'stockings before starting on a long march and not one of his vast army arrived at the end with heels that were rubbed or In flamed. The soap works-like magic and is so simple to use that it is a wonder more pedestrians do not try the Eng lish, officer's ' preventive instead of wearing woolen hosiery or sprinkling the inside of the shoes with soothing powders, all of which add to the com fort of the pedestrian but are not so easy to use and obtain. "Now we will have a lesson'ln pack ing a knapsack," said the teacher'to her class of girls preparing to take a 20 ' mile walk. •— "Take along only the really essential things," she commanded, but they ap peared laden with bottles and boxes of toilet articles which may seem essen tial to health, comfort and happiness when one Is able to enjoy the luxuries of one's own bath, but which can be dispensed with at no great incon- venlence when each box and bottle Is Just so much of a burden to the pedes trian. It is really astonishing how'little of tills sort of thing one can manage to get on with when put to it. Something to.sleep in, a pair of slippers to draw on- at the end of .the day's Journey when the pedestrian has had a refresh ing bath and change of undergarments; brush and comb, a box, or, better yet, a tube of good -cold cream for cleansing the face and soothing the sunburned skin, plenty of handkerchiefs and the other Incidentals which can be fitted into the corners of the knapsack. A knapsack is much easier to carry than any other type of luggage. Miners and westerners have proved that when walking. A pack strapped to the shoulders seems to have almost no weight, while a much lighter pack fas tened to the waist or carried in the hands is doubled or trebled, apparently. ENGLISH 'women have j made the knapsack a popular traveling com panion when on walking trips, arid When Garments Hang AN attractive though simple gift, which""a girl is fashioning herself for her grandmother, consists of a set of slips to go over dresses to protect them from dust when hanging. The material used is dimity, as it is wide, enough to make one width suf ficient for each slip. Were silk em ployed it would be necessary to have a seam through the' middlenot neces sarily objectionable, but more work to make. As many of the patterns which come in dimity are dainty and pretty, the cotton stuff suits the purpose ad mirably. " The slip consists -of one / piece two yards long. It Is folded across the mid dle, and directly In the center of the fold a circle Is cut out to correspond to a neck. The best method of getting this correct is to cut a paper disc by laying a plate down for a pattern. - When the paper Is folded In two It will make a semicircle. This, laid on the fold of the dimity, two straight edges - being to gether, makes the pattern for the circle, which should be done with Bharp scis sors that the material shall not pull. Muslin beading two Inches wide,'hav ing silts through which to run ribbon, is cut into lengths to fit the round hole. The San Francisco Sunday Call Gathering Rare Flowers for Botany Study over here girls are beginning to adopt the Idea, although when one first sets forth thus equipped the knapsack gives one a queer sensation. But as mile • after mile Is covered and the weight does not Increase or Impede the move ments of the pedestrian she realizes why this means of carrying wearing • apparel Is rapidly gaining In favor. A well made knapsack costs about $6. This Is one made of khaki or tan colored canvas, well bound In leather and having an extra compartment in the cover for carrying flat or soft articles. Tan leather straps fit over the shoulders, and In the best shapes of shoulder luggage these are so well adjusted that they do not cut Into the flesh. A girl could easily carry several pounds of luggage In a knapsack and not feel It .a burden. In order to hold the pack firm and straight it has si series of lightweight reeds arranged in a perpendicular row and slipped into the leather binding. These rest against the wearer's back and hold the pack far enough away to permit the air to get underneath. If a pack fitted flat against the shoulders It would seem more of a burden and feel warmer. As a camera is usually taken on one of these school trips the girl who la delegated to look after It should have a case or should see that it Is supplied with a strap long enough to slip- over one shoulder, allowing the camera to fall either above or below the waist line. If It strikes. the waist line it swings with each step of the pedestrian |l and soon begins to drag and tire her. ** The easiest way to carry it is In a knapsack, where the weight is not no ticed and it can not swing and get out . of harmony with the pedestrian's move ments. SO much for the practical side of this form of recreation.. Its whole someness is recognized by every one and the only point to be careful about is that the class of girls is not allowed to do too much in the begin ning. After they have had experience and have shown that they can maintain a four mile" an hour pace for several hours at a time the chaperon and teacher need have no further fear as to their accomplishment. ~ As a girl swings along a country road she moves with greater freedom than in a classroom and Instinctively she lets arms relax and follows the motion of her body so that almost before she Is aware of It she la letting both arms go like a pendulum. This should not be discour aged, physical Instructors say, because It helps respiration and at the same time broadens the chest. Improving the girl's physical condition with each swing. She returns from her simple outing glowing with health, her cheeks rosier for their contact with sunshine and wind hour after hour, and her eyes glittering brightly from the wholesome rest and exercise that have filled the two days with Joy and happiness. "Walking is the simplest health giv ing exercise we know," remarked a physical instructor the other day, "and the wonder is that more girls do not be ■eome . real pedestrians and learn to tramp the hills and country roads as boys do, at the same time gaining wider knowledge of nature than they .would in weeks of class work. You observe more In a day's walking trip with a teacher than most girls learn In years of trav eling In conveyances." and the beading is whipped on precisely as though it were a lingerie collar. Ribbon chosen to run through and tie in a pretty bow should match in color one of the effects appearing In the dim ity pattern. The ribbon should not be put in, however, until all the sewing Is done. The neck completed, the two edges of the dimity are brought evenly together and seamed, either by hand or on a ma chine. The raw efifvs across the bottom, of course, require hemming, and the slip is then complete. It is used by put ting the hook of the hanger on which the garment is suspended through the hole or neck of the slip.""* The cover la wide enough to permit of Its going eas ily over the waist, and by its presence dust is prevented from gathering on the shoulders. Another slip for the same purpose Is formed by a square. It is necessary to have two widths of dimity for this, or four of silk. The cover when cut is a yard and a half square." The raw edgafa are feather stitched and the place for the neck Is cut in the middle, as in the first model. For her grandmother's cases the girl . has chosen delicate heliotrope pat tern, using heliotrope ribbons.