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The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, July 23, 1911, Image 16

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TING to be the steward of
the big country place which she
will Inherit 1* the vacation work
of one girl whose estate Is not
more than a day's journey from New
York. As the place comprises 65.*)
acres In a part of the country where
land Is silver, If not golden, and her
father, a most successful financier, be
lieves that the acres should be made
to yield something to their own sup
port, it can hardly be called play that
the girl has mapped out for herself,
even though her training comes from
the heads of various sections of the
estate, each man a practical worker.
She Is to be responsible for the sum
mer ice supply of the house; she is to
know what timber should be out and
when, and whether or not It will sell
beat as timber or as lumber, and al
ready she has learned the latter means
after being sawed Into planks. The
dairy farm, which supplies a largo and
expensive milk route. Is to be under
her control, In that reports are to be
made to her of It. Conservatories, mar
ket garden and stables, wherein are
still carriage horses as well as hunt
ers and polo ponies, will be put Into
her charge.
Fortunately the girl herself is not
expected to be able to manage these
many and varied sections all at once,
and, what is even more fortunate for
herself, she Is keenly interested in the
HER desire to have more than mere
enjoyment -of the results of the
place came last winter, -when the
house was opened for a big Christmas
party for her School friends. On the
holiday Itself, when her father was
there, the resident manager came to the
room called the "office" to make a re
port while the girl was with her father.
The talk she heard interested her. Ice
for next summer, she found, was to be
cut soon to stock the private house
which supplied the estate. The Ice was
to be brought from one of their own
lakes. Some further talk of "Inten
sive" farming of several acres to ex
periment in what they might be made
to yield was far over her head, but she
grasped the Information that radical
changes were to be made in the market
garden that the same vegetables should
not grow for the third year in prac
tically the same soil that had raised
them the two previous years.
She has no brothers or" sisters, this
girl, and she loves every acre of the
place, that belonged to her grandfather.
Moreover, she has already shown some
of the executive ability that has made
her father well known In the financial
world, and undoubtedly she needed an
outlet for her energies. At least, that
was her father's belief when she began
to ask him what the resident manager
did; something as to cost of the place
annually, and why in a measure It
could not be made to support itself.
THAT It should be actually self-sup
porting she was quickly made to
understand was not to be expected,
as It is run in luxurious fashion as far
as gardens, conservatories and stables
are concerned. But that intelligent
For the American Needlewoman
LAP ROBE making is a new industry
for the amateur needlewoman
whose time hangs heavily on her
hands, and it Is one which may be kept
•*»<• the year round, since the lap robe
of summer differs in weight from the
lap rob_s of autumn, and the one for
winter Is still of heavier degree. Bach
and every robe is Intended to serve the
double purpose of protecting the knees
during a drive or when traveling on a
steamer and the entire figure during a
siesta, for it should be remembered that
no matter how warm may be the
weather or how warm the room, the
sleeper's feet should always be protect
ed by a coverlid of some sort
Linen finished crash in green, brown,
rose, blue or natural color In, plain ef
fects or In two tone broad stripes . Is
used for summer lap robes, and as, this
material Is exceedingly wide two yards
of It Is quite sufficient In case there Is
to be an appliqued border of the darker
shade of "the color; selected,/joined be
neath a gimp of dyed coarse lace or a
border of black crash stenciled in
shades repeating those of the striped
fabric. .
More elaborate lap robes are of linen
surfaced crash In natural tone or a
plain color hemmed broadly. and headed
with drawn work. This would seem
like a tiresome task, but, as a matter
of fact, the threads are so coarse that
the hand work goes very rapidly and Is
wonderfully effective. Linen scrim is
another good material for a summer
lap robe, for, while light of weight, the
dust does . not sift through Its meshes,
and if.the corners of the robe are shot
weighted they w-ill not blow away from
about the feet. The blocked designs in
two tones bordered or hem * appliqued
with white are effective, and if time is
not a consideration to the needlewoman
a Jx3 yard piece of ivory toned scrim
may lie ornamented with' a dark: red,
blue or brown soutache braid'outlined
pattern and bordered with taffeta ,of a
matching shade.
" Solid colors in taffeta make charm
ing lap robes if they are properly fin
ished at the edges, otherwise .they will
strongly resemble the silk quilts made
from the remaining breadths of grand
mother's tea ' party { dress. The correct
way to make a silk lap robe is to get
management would reduce the cost, as
well' as developing the natural possi
bilities at tne same time, was certain,
and when the girl said she would like
to have practical training In the man
agement and eventually have her busy
father turn over to her superintendence
of the details, she received permission
to try.
But first she was made to promise
that she was In earnest, to understand
that she was undertaking an Impor
tant piece of work, and that as far .as
her ability permitted she was to fulfill
her obligations. It was to be work, not
play; a,trip to Europe planned for her
which would have* kept her away until
August-she was required to give up, as
It would have caused her to be absent
at a time when she should see the de
velopment of the early summer season
In gardens and on the farm. She is to
have the estate books kept by her
father's secretary, although the dally
entries she will make herself that she
shall be aware of cost and receipts.
All hiring of employes and dismissing
them Is to be In her control when she
masters the technique of the manage
ment. ':''/_:■'
That it was no play she had under
taken the girl found out Immediately
when, a few days after Christmas, the
manager told her an extraordinarily
cold snap made Ice cutting then desir
able. Ice wasn't merely cut and stacked
up, she found. Men had to be engaged
for It; and as a large supply Is out. It
was thought, best to have It done by
contract. The manager made the bar
gain, but ahe was with mm, expecting
next year be able to do It herself.
She found that sawdust had to be
bought for packing the Ice that. It
should keep through the hot months,
and there was the detail of buying it
at the best price and guessing Intelli
gently at the quantity needed. When
she came back to town and school her
respect for the ability of the resident
manager had Increased hugely.
THE Easter vacation .she spent at
her country home, and had a house
party at the same time. But while
her young friends were loafing
through ' the early morning hour* or
Bleeping she was up betimes trying to
learn something of farm planting,
which was being planned, and some of
which was even then under way. She
found that differences of "soil," "ex
posure," "drainage" and "rotation
were not theories, but facts which must
be known in a measure at least If one
would have even the fewest vegetables
to supply the home table; that if the
carnation house was kept at a tem
perature even a few degrees too high
the lovely petals broke their confining
green cup and hung through the silt
made. It was at Easter, too, that she
was told something of managing the
grapery, luscious Hamburg* which she
had taken for granted all her young
life. -
WHILE her young friend* were
dawdling over the attractive
breakfast table one 'day ahe was
off with the farmer to be Instructed In
the useef pigs, other than as con
the widest taffeta obtainable, so that
there need be but one seam, and that
in the center, which is of the over
lapped sort and tailor stitched onto
a lining of shepherd checked or clan
plalded serge. Having spread the silk
smoothly over the worsted lining and
stitched the center seam, onto It, the
edges of the two materials must be
basted together and then pressed with
a warm; iron.
The pressing will show whether the
outer side is smaller than the lining,'.
and if it does this fault must be
promptly corrected lest the strain upon
the silk cause It to pull away from the
•center seam. When assured that both
sides are of equal size the edges should
be run together with a fine thread and
then bound with half inch strips of
suede or glace kid.
Covert cloth, striped worsteds and
fancy mohair make really serviceable
lap robes for moderate weather," and as
all of these fabrics are very wide three,
yards will be enough for the outer side,
which should be tacked to lining of
natural or colored linen, and the edges
of the two layers turned. ,in and
stitched evenly together. Some of the
coverts and fancy worsted J robes . are
leather bound, but as it is impossible
to do # this work with an ordinary, sew
ing machine the binding would better
be of tailor's silk or of kid.
Perambulator lap robes ar» the dain
tiest affairs Imaginable, and In the pro
cess of construction are a I delight to
the worker. A yard of extra width :
French pique is quite sufficient for one
of the wide hemmed robes, headed with
a border of hand embroidery or sou
tache, centered with a small monogram *
and trimmed with large bows of satin
.ribbon attached to the top corners.
•Then there are the lap robes of allover
embroidered batiste in English:/eyelet :
or solid work,"with wide, plain hem
stitched borders In lieu of the' ruffles
which _of yore made the ' front of • the '
infant carriage resemble - a • huge pin
cushion, and . newer still are the -lap
robes -of white French serpentine" silk
and linen crepe. These latter are usu
ally: decorated; with the finest of hand '
. embroidered: forget-me-nots if the per
ambulator's occupant is a boy and with
tiny pink rosebuds if a girl is being
!wheeled about.
sumers of -refuse. Pigs were "pork"
she discovered, and ,If ," they had been
properly* cared for they sold at a profit.
She was present when three shrieking
and elusive porkers were driven into
the wagon of a neighboring butcher,
who had "bought them on the hoof,"
and, a bystander during the conver
sation between the farmer and the
butcher, she heard that pork liver was
a delicacy greater than calves" /liver.
Acting quickly, to her father's amuse
ment later when he was told, she re
served the livers of the porkers then
on' their way to market, and a few
days later she had the pleasure of
hearing her parents'" guests comment
upon the "most delicious" liver which,
served with bacon, was handed ,'at
But it was not until the summer va
cation began that the girl's day settled
down into a routine, and she is hold
ing to it conscientiously, at the same
time keeping her social Interests and
always having friends staying In the
She Is waked at 6 o'clock by an
alarm clock, and at 7 she joins the
resident manager, who begins his
The Problem of the Summer Petticoat
THE problem of summer petticoats
is a difficult one to be solved by the
girl who must send out all of. her
laundry, for no matter how careful she
may be, petticoats are quickly soiled
about the bottom and thus another gar
ment is added to the already too long
list to be handed to the laundress.
Yet there Is no petticoat for ordinary
service equal to those of launderable
material, and girls : who perforce have
given this detail of the wardrobe seri
ous consideration say that for use be
neath tailored skirts of light weight
cloth nothing Is more satisfactory than
a petticoat -of gray- pongee, which
sheds the dust and does not fade when
being washed and dried.
Now that outside skirts are so ab
normally narrow, girls who make such
petticoats for themselves cut the pon
gee Into five scanty gores which fit
smoothly about the hips and at the bot
tom are wide enough for '• comfort in
walking, but do not flare. These petti
coats, however, would twist themselves
about: the ankles were it not for their
eight Inch hems and :a narrow ..;• dust
ruffle set T. to the under instead of the
upper st __»* Another feature vof these
tailored petticoats is their placket This
opening is ; arranged; to " come » over the
left hip, ;so .that in event of the skirt
placket becoming unhooked there ; shall
be no chance of -exposing the lingerie.
- Foulard petticoats In flowered or dot
ted : patterns-. are; made, especially ? for
use beneath: foulard or thin silk frocks,
and * the; reason ; for this /Is ; not ; far to
seek,/ since ?It Is /well' known >■' that ■ any
sort ;of stiff • material beneath/ a ; thin
silk affects its swing and hang. A taf
feta, thick satin or stiffly starched lln
The Care of the Mangle
There is no doubt that the mangle is
a very,convenient thing to have, espe
cially when you have a great deal of
bed -and < table linen to do up every
week, but some people object to It be
cause they say /that;:: it -; takes '.. up ' too
much room. Even this objection 1 can
be done; away with, ; for ; you • can, get * a
small one which will' screw on* the
side. of your table, and . which can be
stowed *; away. In /the/closet. or in -that
most J convenient. 0/; places, the \ cellar
way,. when' not ln*_use?JE'flMßH_Bß&H
The '•' advantages }of the ;mangle are
many, one :: of them being the ,/ doing
away f with/ the necessity for ironing
rounds. The stables, garage and farm,
as well as the 'dairies and the dairy
stables, are visited. When the resi
dent manager, who is, of course, a stew
ard, suggested that the various heads
of these departments come to the
"office" and make their reports, the
girl herself vetoed it and-was upheld
by her father. How would she know
the practical details if she had only
reports made to 1 her? she exclaimed,
and so It is she who is gathering
knowledge at first hand. .'- ' ,
- - -„ ■-. • -./-'..,'.
a CUP of hot milk keeps her going
A through hot milk keeps her going
through the two hours of morning
inspection, and unless something
Is found to be wrong at one branch,
she Is back at the house for the 9
o'clock breakfast. Sometimes she rides
on these morning rounds and again
she goes in a small electric runabout.
To walk would consume too much
time getting over the ground.
The steward meets her at the house
door, and they go first tq the stable,
where, In the harness room, the coach
man tells of the condition of the horses
and hands In a slip of the needshar
ness that needs repairing, horses that
eerie petticoat will sometimes actually
reshape a thin skirt and certainly de
stroy the Intended effect. The foulard
petticoat must have really wide dust
"ruffles set "against the inner side of the
hem, and as the material frays readily
both the edge of the skirt and Its ruffle
should be protected with a narrow satin
binding. "
; Soft and nonlnterfering are the petti
coats of white or colored messallne
mad?. very narrow/ but also ornamental
by means f>t graduated puff bands of
chiffon - overlaying ribbon strands
"breaking out" at intervals Into coquet
tish little bows. Of course, these fou
lard and messallne petticoats can not
be placed In a washtub or run through
a wringer, but as to regularly send
them to a cleaner is expensive, the best
way is to try to keep them; clean by
first brushing the dust from the hems
and then going over the lower portion
with a; cloth wet with benzine, which
will usually remove any stain likely to
get ' upon a petticoat. fI^HSMMfeCH
Petticoats of : figured lawn In dark or
light color schemes are: best* of all * for
use" with gingham/ or linen ; morning
frocks. Girls . who are much out of
doors in | summer and consequently soil
the : edges/of: a ' great ; many spetticoats
may save considerable laundry ; money
by . making > knee skirts and circular
shaped flounces, which may be buttoned
on. By: adopting this plan'; one j skirt
may be worn ; several day * and j the cost
of having it and -its half dozen attach
able flounces laundered will be only, half
that of six entire garments of this de
■' The same rule may jbe applied to the
lingerie petticoats,/which, *to -obviate
large pieces on the board. And when a
woman is obliged to stand :at her iron
ing all day Tuesday and part i of Wed
nesday, this is jno small consideration.
, The ~ articles shohld \be prepared i for
the mangle just as for Ironing, with the
exception of cotton goods, which should
be quite damp. *':":-,/".';' ■'' "';''
, : All the articles should be uniformly
damp, and they should be folded quite
smoothly. /./The; folded * edge • should be
passed through the; mangle first.
.The *, articles * will »: come/out; much
smoother if f more / than '■}. one or ' two
thicknesses be '-. passed*s through at one
time. / About eight thicknesses will pro
duce the best results.
require shoeing and any sickness, if
there la such. Then a visit is made
to the stalls and to the carriages.
From there they go to the garage,
where the routine reports are made out
like those of the stable. The farmer's
report takes longer, las does a visit. "to
the market gardens, and the dairy and
its stables also take more time. The
butter 'is tasted every few days, that
Its ■ flavor and • quality may be known;
the care' given to cream is watched
„ scrupulously dally, and of the details
employed for hygiene In the keeping of
milk; and cream and work about the
herd there seemed at first to the girl
no end.
Breakfast, eaten with a healthy ap
petite, disposed of, the conservatories
are visited and the formal gardens are
also looked over. Then the girl goes
to the offlce, and what might be called
the technical side of the management
Is gone through with by the steward.
Expense books are brought out; the
list of supplies needed in the various
departments-of the place are ordered.
At present/ that* she may have a prac
tical idea of the amounts used, compar
isons are being-made with the; order
the necessity of wearing several layers
of fine linen over the hips, should be of
Lonsdale'cambric with deep and sub
stantial flounces of lace and lawn entre
deux, trelllssed or medallion inset; of
allover muslin embroidery, dotted Swiss
or hand worked fine linen. If a hand
some flounce Is carefully ■ laundered' it
should last a great many years, and as
It Is much easier to iron one of these
in the form of a separate strip, that is
an excellent reason for making it so /
that it may easily and quickly be de
tached from Its petticoat. "
The handsome petticoats of former ,
years, provided they fit closely about
the hips," should not be cut over, for *
when full skirts are revived the flare
about the ankles will be needed, and
once that fullness Is removed it can hot
be put back. However, if a girl has a
handsome petticoat which she really
needs to use during the present summer
she would best rip off Its flounce, divide ,
it equally, embroider buttonholes along
its top and ' wear the two halves alter
nately with a button equipped - knee '
skirt ." ■
Ribbons are no longer used on.the
petticoats Intended .for wear directly
beneath fine linen or lace , frocks, for
ribbons, even if " snow white, are; sug
gestive of lingerie and give '; an| idea ) of I
the underdressing. To avoid this ap
pearance a great many girls are mak
ing straight, narrow, full length petti
coats/; of ? Lonsdale j cambric /and over i
them "place a similarly made garment of
cheap white net. This veiling ; scheme '•',
lends ;the"; substantial umlerpetticoat .' a "
finer /appearance/ and : tones with the
"mesh; of whatever lace and embroidery .
trim the frock.
VNo _, starched;•. goods or articles with
buttons should be , put ; into . the mangle
if you would keep It In good condition.
Remember J that; the', bearings should be
oiled occasionally. - dBfiSS
If the ; rollers ; should become marked
or / dented,; because >. of ; nard I substances
having been passed I through by acci
dent or because of ridges in the clothes,
then a wet towel should Ibe //wound
around the roll and permitted to re
main for a few hours.
Mangles' may be ; obtained either.' hot
or,- cold. . The former'are: perhaps the
best, as the, heat ; has the effect 'of ren
dering the; articles smoother. The"
heating is. generally done by gas. "
4,11 _ tJVuU * *k*_.v__'wk/ ■ MUMMWjf W-J
sheets of former years, so that the girl
has learned what the average feed and
keep are for a horse through the year.
That the upkeep of motors varies ac
cording to the conscientiousness and
Intelligence of the chauffeur has been
forcibly Impressed upon her ■ already
through", going over some accounts,
which Included repairs, tires and the
et ceteras of a garage through ♦he ad
ministration of one man who was
grossly incompetent comparing his de
mands with those of the incumbent,
who has proved himself to be excellent.
QUITE recently she was taken into
consultation with the steward and
her father as to whether the tim
ber cut should be sold as it was or sent
to the mill to be made Into planks.
She was told that to cut the logs added
to the cost, but that it increased the
selling price, and they left the decision
wholly to her. She concluded to have
the logs made Into lumber, and she
made, the sale herself, later, so satis
factorily as to delight her father and
win commendation from the steward.
Sh^alsc- declared, of her own opinion,
that much extra hay should be sold, as
she thought they had more than would
Talks by the April Grandmother
i»T"\ UTCH necks must be doing a won
" [ / -eriul work as jaw reformers,"
observed the April Grandmother
as she turned the pages of a fashion
periodical, "for I don't know of any
mode more certain to bring into prom
inence an unkempt appearance of the
line running from the end of the ear to
the tip of the chin. While girls wore
high collars and stocks the difference
.between the coloring of the throat and
of the face was not apparent, but with
the coming of mild weather the sight
of a yellow-brown-plnk jaw above a.
cream white throat Is startling. It also
is very ugly and it makes the wearer
of the dainty ..Dutch necked frock look
positively grotesque to her friends—
and.to herself if she happens to notice
her Jaw in profile.
"The moment a girl discovers that
there is something wrong with her Jaw
and decides that it is chiefly one of
coloring she begins to experiment with
one bleach or another and is ready to
try any lotion which promises to do the
work almost instantaneously, whereas
If she had made a dally practice of
caring for her profile she need not now
worry about it at all. At the first Indi
cation of tan or sunburn she would
have; 'compressed* the skin with water
diluted peroxide 'of hydrogen, arid the
appearance of a single pimple or blotch
would have been the signal for a change
of "diet,. or at least the eschewing, of
candles and gravies and, other well
known foes of the stomach which In
variably flaunt ' their flags upon the
cuticle of the face.- '■""■/-',''■"
"Girls who are very thin may venture,
to adopt; the Dutch neck if only they
will see to It that the Jaw above the
Blender throat is .of even contour,'' con
tinued the April Grandmother. "Arid to
acquire such a Jaw ;is not a difficult
matter if ;a . few rules are strictly, ob
served. One of them and the most
important is to keep the head slightly
tipped * back/ -~ That poise prevents ) the
skin of the Jaw.from sagging and the ,
cuticle from wrinkling. The next Im
portant rule Is not,to allow* the jaw to
get too thin, as that gives it a sharp, in',
be used before the summer crop comes
in, and she disposed of three tons to a
neighboring farmer, letting him have It
at $1 below market price a load that
he might haul*, it himself, so that their
own farm horses were not taken from
plowing and planting, for which their
services were then more valuable than
$1 a day. ' ",
To the girl herself, as well as her
father, one of the most gratifying ele
ments of the work ii that the more she
hears and sees of It the more interested
does she become. In spite of the fact
that with the unlimited income'of the
family the cost of , expenditures need
not be closely considered, she Is being
brought up to consider money valuable
and that to waste it, to spend It with
. out getting - return, is unintelligent.
That she will be better able to look
after the fortune that some time she
will inherit, and .that her own Interests
in life will be broadened and Increased
by knowledge of various kinds, .Is the
theory which decided her father In let
. ting her learn estate management,- and
he has promised that when she la com
petent to become steward he will make
her so, giving her the same salary oth
era have. ■
fact an aged, look. Cold cream applied
regularly and generously will preserve
this curved line from the ears to* the
chin and Incidentally will assist in the
bleaching process.
"The third rule is a matter for th*
dentist and the girl who values the ap
pearance of her Jaw as seen in Jux
taposition with a Dutch neck will not
allow more than three moons to elapse
between her visits to the studio of tor
ture, for the loss of a single tooth will
be certain* to cause a depression in
the Jaw which art Is sometimes power-.
less 1 to conceal.
"A Jaw that Is overround or fat is
an __>mngenlal / companion of th*
Dutch neck," continued the April
Grandmother, "because the sharply de
fined eutH-e permitted by; the bare
throat make*, the line from the ear
to the chin look lumpy., The possessor
of such a jaw should systematically
reduce It with compresses of cold water
and by exposing it as much as possible
to the fresh air, as oxygen literally
consumes; avoirdupois.
"Warts on the jaw are an affliction
which doubtless ' are bestowed by
Mother Nature for some good purpose,
but to expose one of these disfigure
ments above a Dutch neck would re
quire more strength of character than
the average maiden is endowed with.'
But as the seeker after beauty would
rather, be out of the world than out
of fashion, she would best beg a physi
cian to prescribe a lotion which* : will
cause a wart to dry up and ultimately
drop off. ___j__-j
"Jaws often are materially broad- •
ened " and made ugly by .the habit of
holding the upper "and lower teeth
tightly together instead of allowing
.them- to touch .naturally. In time this
practice tends to widen the lower por
tion of the face and make it seem
heavy instead of delicately oval or
round. ; To be determined to carry to
a successful"finish whatever .*ls under-'
taken lis an admirable characteristic,"
admitted the April Grandmother, ."but
it Is not necessary to; advertise //the
fact by the set of th_ Jas,** — - -

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