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THE GIRL AND HER YACHT A PAGE for MISSES . .-a -rORTH northeast, three-quar j\ I ters east; southeast by east. I \j quarter east." The words fell from the lips of a pretty young girl who, with brows knit to gether and gaze concentrated .upon a chart, was endeavoring to "box the compass" in the 'nautical college where girls learn to "paddle, their own ca noes," for this season it is the fashion to add navigation and seamanship to other feminine -accomplishments. "No; oh, no; not like that!"^called out the captain. "If you wish, to be truly nautical, my dear young lady, say nor* nor"east and sou'east by east. Sailors have no time to waste like that," he concluded whimsically. For it was, you see, the first lesson in yachting that 20 young girls were endeavoring to comprehend, and in which one of the number was so di vided between a tendency not to" rob the points of the compass of a single consonant that belonged to It and her new born determination to be truly nautical that she fell under the cap tain's censure. Since deep sea , cruising and lake yachting are indulged in by society, to such an extent and to own a yacht is as essential as possessing a motor car it is, as may be concluded, up to the young women of the family to learn something of the mysteries of sex tant and compass. Wedding trips, too. are so frequently taken aboard pala tial yachts that it is incumbent upon the bride or bride to be to know some thing of the theoretical as well as the practical knowledge of sailing. Apropos of this the captain will tell you some interesting tales wherein the posses sion of such knowledge led to very romantic ends. ONE young southern girl, for ex ample. Invited for a cruise aboard a millionaire's fine yacht, came to the college to be coached for the occa sion. Her first question was, "Which end do' you steer, captain?" But her progress was so rapid that at the end of the cruise she announced herself a sailor's bride to be. Then, too, there, has been a steady increase in yacht clubs having racing events for women sailing their own boats, both on the north and south shores of Long island, and as hundreds of yachts, both great and small, carry pleasure parties up and down Long Island sound, all run by women. It shows the necessity of urate knowl edge in navigation. And so the class in marlinspike sea manship and the handling of full rigged yachts has been formed and its fair members are about ready to get their sailing papers. It is a . school where amateur yachtswomen are made over into experienced sailors, with desks and other paraphernalia the same as seen in any class room. But here the'comparison ends, for Instead of just books, pads and pencils there are ships in miniature, from the smallest catboat to the full rigged schooner yachts. All the models are good sized, 9 feet in height and 13 feet In length, large enough to en able the student to see the working of every detail of sail and tackle. Close by is another room devoted to the making of knots and splices and the more simple bends and hitches. The simplest of these is the overhand knot with the figure eight or the *, sailor's knot, the reef granny or lubber's knot, the overhand rosette, not to mention the wedding and diamond knot, which sound more romantic than they really are. • "Haul up the clew garnet," was ; the order just then beard from the model room and quickly followed by the bo's'n's whistle. The orders given oral ly are repeated on the reed, for aboard no well regulated yacht is an order ever given by voice. .This is one of the things the girls delight in, and when the captain orders "Pipes belay" the girl picks up the whistle and quickly sounds a pretty little trill as before, while another hauls in the jib tops'l halyards. "" Every girl, the captain is firmly con vinced, should be able to handle her own craft. Practical Talks by the April Grandmother -< t-« tOUR new friend has lovely feet, Ymy dear child," remarked" the April Grandmother,; as" soon as the girl who had been (calling upon her youngest granddaughter was well be yond the sound of her voice, "but I should have observed that fact quite as quickly if she had not been at such pains to keep them on view. And fbe cause she sat with her feet( extended far in advance of her body I could ; see why in the; course of a decade; she will' be wearing shoes j several sizes longer and wider than those she : has on at this moment. In the; first place her heels : are '(exaggeratedly high; and they are two Inches. ahead of:their normal posi tion.; r -_ ..'V. " » - --. * ,•;. "'That sort of heel gives the instep a high 'arched = effect(» but It also helps ;to break down (whatever i arch exists .; and sometimes temporarily cripples the, pos sessor. Then the tips of the f shoes were almost' as sharp as needles. That shape makes(for, a slender effect, and at the same time by cramping the toes causes Instruction in Putting Off "the Life Boat. j^r-piHIS," he explains, "does not mean I the mere art of steering, for al though it is in the highest degree necessary that she should be a good helmswoman It is equally important that she be capable of taking entire charge Of her vessel in case of emergency." And in this connection the captain may spin for you, as he frequently does, the story of a young. woman who saved a" big, ship from destruction by her knowledge of navigation. The vessel. it seems, was on, a voy age from this port to the Golden gate and encountered a very heavy gale just south of the equator in the Atlantic ocean. The chief mate of.the ship was struck down by a" falling block and succumbed to brain fever. The cap tain became helpless with rheumatism, and as the second mate, on whom the command of the vessel devolved,";?did not understand navigation -it was up to the daughter of the captain <to take hold in the emergency, and she, with the knowledge gained by association, with her father, navigated the ship all the way around the . Horn and; up to San Francisco,., standing watch and watch with the only regular officer, left. She brought the ship through the Gold en gate, gave the order to "clew up sails" and dropped anchor as unerring ly as an able seaman. "This might not happen „to "many girls, but such knowledge often saves 1 human life," remarked the -raconteur as he concluded his tale. "The quick, ready eye," went on the captain, "the doing the right-thing; at the right moment, are the distinguish-, ing characteristics of the thoroughbred" seaman. The woman who Is too lacka daisical to lfarn or fe-irs to- soil her hands has no business a"float save as a passenger. "The first thing to acquire are the names ( of. the different ropes and where they.:lead,to. Next to.learn Is some of / the more common"knots and splices. :'.'; A few 'hours' practice with the mar linspike and a piece of -rope will do them to,double under, breaks the nails, enlarges the joints and produces the soft cornmost painful of (all excres cences. ! ~ ,f f ■ ... "'■';,- "And because fa shoe which; pinches the toes is as difficult to crowd the foot into as though it were too ; short, it is likely to (create- bunions, and (when a bunion arrives It comes to remain per manently, and -it will have; room to spread itself - in, no j matter f how much Its victim (may; object l to wearing;, wide shoes.; 1 Can't ; you f imagine-how that young girl's feet will '-look"; when the *insteps; are flattened, the f balls wid ened with-" bunions and the toe Joints showing like? miniature (hillocks? .Arid I think that her ankles will get thick* because in her [ reluctance J to adopt shoes a. size larger than ,those( she has customarily fworn she will force her ankles^insteadfof her feet to support her.: weight; Moreover,' she's quite like ly to grow,; fat. .f-';f .f;..f; ;-;'■;'' " T;, f!Tf-(:(( "I have seen i any; number of/slender women gradually become stout after they began to have what f they term "trouble with their feet.' They speak of this condition as do the women who wonders in this direction, fAs for the mechanical part of steering that is easily acquired, but the. art -of making a . vessel do everything but talk by humoring her with the tiller is much more f difficult of attainment.' - Some girls are natural born helmswbmen and can take the helm In any craft that sails the seas, in fair weather or foul, after a half dozen lessons. Others re ■_-.■■■--.'--- '* - :■ — '"Heavy Weather." i .--• " .. . - - - '.'■■.-■ . j . ' ' - ■ .:-.-...;■ . ■ .''.'.'■-.- Full Rigged Schooner Where 'Amateur Yachtswomen [ f . Learn the Ropes , . H^SKtsX quire all the,time,the course prescribes. t .-pv OXINGf the compass Is one of the ''■"■""l rudimentary things to master In 'learning,to pail. This means call ing off the different points In, nautical fashion .and with a complete 'under standing of what you are doing. ; It Is not difficult,', simply a matter of mem are having "trouble with their hus bands,' -and ;_■ like ((those women they have brought, most of this trouble upon themselves Jby persistently /clinging^to] a;. senseless; idea. '■■'.-" - ■'-'"*,-' f-."Some- shoemakers and a great; many, other people maintain v that the small foot has j gone"; out of if fashion," con tinued the April Grandmother, "but ;if that ;; is so. then ,fthere i (are] numerous women i of (every; age and condition who are following f the fashion 'of '. 60 years ago, when every {young I lady was sup posed to have little feet. As a matter of fact, the (average; foot, in proportion to (the; size of j the women (of that gen eration, was as large then as ( it is now. "You." directly addressing her (eldest granddaughter, "easily drew <..,on my; mother's: dancing shoes the other day, although you are two inches taller, than she was at your age. The real reason why the belle of a half century ago seemed to her admirers to have very small feet is that her insteps, heels and ankles were permitted to be in evidence. The length and width of her skirts concealed all save her toe's; they were the little mice that crept in and orizing and, as. a rule, girls ? take hold "■ of: it'quickly. "If "a* girl .wants ; topsail, a catboat. her Instruction will cover notr more than three or four ; lessons in what we call the 1 art of sailing, boxing the compass, shaping the course and measuring the; distance from " one fpoint to ranother ; along the ; shore. ;-• All: of this can -be learned In a month. f There are three or four rudimentary things 'to know. First, the maklng the rope fast over a belaying. pin; knotting the rope and a few minor problems-;like reeving.' oft the throat and peak halyards and the main sheet follow. After the prelim inaries are gone into my pupils next learn j the art of manipulating rope ;: in the way of knotting, splicing and hitch ing , . ;;■■ ' . ; "This being accomplished a more try ing test on feminine fingers follows, In the handling of wire rigging, and here I will say;that only a deep love",of«the sport and the desire to -probe all, the mysteries of the. art of sailing will en able f the girl to stand up. against the out beneath her petticoat, and the shoes : themselves,(.'while rather short, were .very - broad f across ? the balls of -; her; feet and had close warped soles. Of -.. all j modern types* of shoes the pump is the (one which makes^ the foot seem small est, : arid ;>, very comfortable fitfis ;If »its ("shape f accords \ with that 'of; the wear er's foot. If \ the Instep Is very, high and .begins -.to rise at the base of the toes the foot is not suited to a pump shape, :and a young girl can better 'afford ito give away her most expensive shoes of that sort than to run the risk of ; having her]; feet arches (permanently broken down. "Times bave changed .amazingly". since my own girlhood and I've tried;-to change my ideas vinf- accordance with ■ them," concluded the April If Grand J mother, "but I'm not willing to cripple my feet by crowding them into shoes which make them^ook !so extraordinar ily slender and pretty that vanity would \ impel-; me to keep them thrust almost literally in every one's face in stead of f drawn decorously .j beneath my skirts after the manner of the gentle women of an elder yday." '.. damage to her I fingers, for the' wire has many, little spurs'that prick and scratch - the flesh-painfully. . ««rp° nandle the working models ■* :| of yachts in their standing and ■*■ - running rigging Is the next step, -j' These vessels are stripped to a gant- f ling and.then:the,work;of. 'stepping,the • spars'—putting them In place—getting up the : standing,"- rigging, f hanging;; the Mj blocks and reeving off _ the running; gear is performed. Following this, the bending, funbending,*setting; and reefing f of the sails ? are;: thoroughly discussed, f^ aided by numerousi: object'lessons.V .'/After f this.! is accomplished the v -next step, Is the - theoretical getting^ under ff way,* sailing and coming to anchor with the i different": types of yachts, catboats, f sloops, cutters, yawls "and : schooners. ; This course] completed, the student ob- ' tains a diploma certifying to her ability j v-At the Wheel ■Vnav ■-, ;■«, - ■■.-•'--- -.- - -.. ■- ■ ■ =--'. .•■ '- .' • in; seamanship 7 pure and, simple.f;.- Now .she is ready to attack navigation in;all; Its .branches.- :*f";f' ffff- ' ' ; "This f includes .the aritthmetic of navigation, the construction of the mar iner's chart, with the study of magnetic phenomena, in -order," to 'appreciate why the compass needle points true north In some places In f the world, to; the '."east-* ward "• or fto the westward fof t north Jin > other places. v ". --" ';--~;- ,f ' : ;f "Besides this, the arithmetic of navi ;'gationf comprehends i the j addition, sub-; traction, multiplication and division of '■.' • '- !:i -''T,.: ■. -■■»••■", ■- i-..;-.- •„.:..•• ;",■.,»:,- -:»«. -.--., ■ ■ .-.• Fancy Aprons— The Newest Fad THE fancy apron Is the most femi nine; of ; all * the ; garments invented v-.'by Kve's daughters. *Many, young : girls who have j; never in their.« lives done an hour's real'work have devel oped-" a; perfect;*- craze J for '."wearing, (a pons'; with their "morning arid after , noon -.house.' frocks, "and t this *isVa; fad •not to be wondered at, since the: new est £models <" in | aprons ; are f the * daintiest affairs ;^; imaginable. vf;And;>f they f are known by fantastic} names, which are supposed to be adapted 'to the- charac ter of their design. -.>(-f •(;,/( ;Jf- -f Without ever having seen ;it( any girl jwouldf know that "j the apron named fin' honor of ''Queen* Marie Antoinette /would be a deliciously frivolous affair of White, chiffon edged with real Valen ciennes and tied about the waist with a long and -narrow ribbon of palest blue satin. Hut the same (design is charming in" any other colors. To make the Marie Antoinette (.pinafore take a yard long piece of double width chiffon, overcast its edges on to a band of nar row Valenciennes, finish the lace band with a matching of edging put on with ; the'^ tiniest degree of fullness: then i Pleasure a finger's length from the top edge .of the chiffon, shir it four (times across - Its I entire width and finally draw 11 t.|u pi. Into two finger lengths of space. This (forms' the bib, whose two corners Rre fastened to t.h*» -.-> with invis ible pins, while the lower or shirred (edge is attached to the ribbon -', strings and defines the waist line. The lower section of this apron will naturally fall into wider folds the farther it gets from the belt and at the bottom will be quite wide enough J" for any apron de signed as a decoration rather than as a protection to the front of a frock. No one with an imagination less active than a schoolgirl's could design degrees, minutes and seconds, and, after this Is v understood, then the question as to ~the construction ;of the mariner's chart fis taken up, j* the shaping of | the » course and the .measuring* of .distance? between ;" two 'I places on ; - the earth's *» sur- "j face is gone '"into.';"^ -;-■ ■ "..'"..f fff*^ "Then follows one of the ■ most Inter- * esting propositions in 'geo,' or terres trial J navigation, that • of :, dead» reckon ing, which enables the vessel to/be; navigated. -fit * might be around the world, -, without a ;sextant "or chronom eter, relying I,' upon r the "compassf alone I an apron suited'(to .the', attire of the lovely ladies made (familiar/ to us by "VVatteau's" paintings. 1- /.Tet V"tteau"; exac tly'd escribes 4 the. marquisette pina fores fin "the; palest shades of ? blue, 2 rose. > violet, >:greenjjor.Kyellow; f!A" strip of I; material 5-1 by is 'inches. In; diameter is first evenly divided and formed into a finger length wide box plait? At either side of this plait are ; placed three deep half plaits; which form a"f diagonals ripple .at both sides of t the center points ;( at the two ends of the strip of mar quisette, and they remain of i; even^ width fun til ;a velvet ribbon has beerf run .through/. eyelet holes made; in the outer ; folds fof ((the. side f plaits, after; which the ? upper cluster of plaits :is drawn rather J" closely., "together and stitched fori* to the girdle. >f:ff; "*--" --.*.' -(' Bordered gauze is the only material - that "is' considered correct for the de velopment of the Oho San pinafore which would really be a very* practical i affair were - it made of ; a stout, 1 launder- -- able; material, for he; two yards of yard» wid.e gauze are shirred lengthwise upon **'J narrow band surrounding the waist and arranged to cover all save the back of the skirt. This band is concealed »>-. --ax three yard long sash of f the ! gauze ; winch is wound twicp about the waist and is .as wide as the Jananese obi but unlike it is knotted slightly at one'side of lie,. front, -its bordered ends falling a .most to the lower edge of the apron , The Empress Josephine is honored "lint a panel pinafore, which may be ma in one of two ways. The ' model ; that ?is " most of all popular consists of shee' white muslin bordered with' an inch wide band of colored silk. To make one of these aprons first shape a quar ter yard wide and a yard long center panel, deeply rounded or scalloped at both. ends. After this panel. has been The San Francisco Sunday Can Getting l Under 'Way. as fan Instrument of navigation.! f "In | the 1 latter working recourse to tables ,'of plain right angles is alone referred to for the different courses and distances sailed by the vessel. It is one of the f most valuable problems In all ;navigation, although at times derided by rough and ready navigators. ««npHE -finding of latitude and longi ' I- tude by observation of the heav i f f enlyf bodies is then carefully ex if pounded in the class room and the ma -1 nipulations of the chronometer and sex ! tant and f the practical development of ' the problems are -demonstrated to the { student on the seashore at Coney island. Here a sea horizon Is obtainable and on certain field days all students repair with the i college instruments and de velop positions by the sea horizon. All | ithis sounds more difficult than it really is, but there is nothing about It that jj any young girl -may. not become familiar with in a couple of months." ; ' After delivering himself of the theo j retical 1 side of. the problem, the captain I suddenly ' shifted -: to the practical and began quizzing one of his fair pupils. :U« ,; "Point - out the : starb'd t'gallant clew- I l'ne,"/ he commanded. f It wasn't at all I strange .when one takes into considera- 4 T tion all ' the -various ropes that pre ' sented themselves -,f for consideration. that perverse feminity grabbed the ':;'wrong one. This forced the captain to call out a bit testily: if "No, not that; you've got hold of the | buritrne." ;, The ■ buntl'ne and the clewl'ne were all the same to the novice, but by good ■Sj that f perverse ff femininity grabbed the f right one. Then followed in quick suc cession: ", , ■ "Haul up the fore clew-garnet.;. Rise '- main tackle *In f sheets," •• etc., while 20 pairs lof dainty hands ; flew to obey the orders. -■ •'-.. WITH the precision of veteran sail ors the; girls this time did the bid-^ , v : ding of their instructor, at widest he -was pleased to- acknowledge that - he'd rather * teach women, l generally speaking, at any time .than men. They are V quicker, ■■ he ,: says, and f have more intuition. ; They concentrate on their work £ and;- are f more i enthusiastic ever It, and (any' one, he: avers, who takes up the study of navigation on this basis is bound fto succeed. - -;■ A unique : feature of ; the classroom Is a large platform on rollers,;supporting an Immense wooden steering wheel, used to explain the art of steering. ; By giving the wheel a wrench the platform responds quickly, making tfan entire revolution of .the; room, it; may ! be,' be fore It I stops. As an object lesson it is a valuable part of J, the equipment, and as a means of locomotion for sport it is frequently surreptitiously % enjoyed (' by the f girls when the captain's eyes are tdrned the other way. • " - '> fvlt was on one of the Impromptu rides that j, the -captain*was;earnestly assort ing his belief that the time is fast com ing, when: it will be "-considered quite a-* necessary for a girl who is 'much about the water to have? accurate , knowledge of sailing and navigation as it is now or ; her to learn ?to ' swim. ."• "And V then," the .sailing master con cluded, "until a,,; girl has tasted the salt tf spray Jas;flt fls dashed from the prow of f a clipper f yacht ;f she doesn't know what , real .. joy; Is. There are few more delightful ways' of spending a holiday than; on a cruise. With the entire',.?. freedom from restraint, inde pendence;,? of (; J hotels and (Jf boarding houses, withy no I anxiety '' about . the : ar rival . and departure of trains, you are absolutely your j, own mistress. ■< After a girl I has once J felt ; her craft .-' answer the; turn of f the J, wheel, ,; has w seen the white sails fill and the boat dance over the waves as faf; creature f" of life, she will never again Ibe satisfied with any sport J less ; sensational than yachting." ;■-*-;- - '■•.'..-..'; -: - -.'-• *i-..''* ■ '--.; ,v ;-..;---'' .. ; . bound with whatever color of (silk has been > selected, a second and slightly shorter panel Is shaped, split through ._-. the J center of its length, the upper half curved ends cut straight across and the lower curved ends made to dovetail to the curves of the*center panel. '."'," \ •These attached side '-.panels furnish s the - necessary J width, .while the top curve of - the center panel forms a rounding bib, which is trimmed with loop bows, and then shirred on to rib bon strings matching the (shade of the silk; defining -the three I panels. Th» other Josephine ; apron consists of three straight panels of (figuredl" muslin, the cent*; 3 one shorter than those at either side (of,. it;, but all three sections bor dered "(and clearly defined .with wide white ribbon and shaped at the waist with a ribbon sash that 'is * run through wide eyelets embroidered "near the top of 4 the three panels after >they have been "joined j together (arid bordered. ; I To; make' a. Princess' "Pat" ; apron it la positively necessary to have at least a half f yard of silk of fanciful pattern, preferably figured China or of tl.«>*e flexible -French;novelties that are soft of texture v and frivolous of design. The foundation of this pinafore may be a -**"•£ half shield, a half (oblong or a half star of about 12 inches In diameter, and ( , ■it must b* basted upon a piece of stiff 'i net in order to; keep ;it perfectly nay . * while the deep border of plain silK: <f r satin is being attached. This b°rd,'*, r- fi which 5?Is:" the larger portion of "■ j apron, may be shaped In whatever man- --, ncr ;seems best to the maker or in " little accessory, and s the more t unusual It is the more distinctive will h«JB* ; effect. A deep point, fstartinga"'"^* ' at the hem of the skirt, widening sharp ly upward for 10 or 12 inches and tnen narrowing abruptly into the ™*\\: thread at the. waist line. ;'9 ."ffned or but so are the curved; or scallopea square bordera .-;-