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PART TWO VOLUME CX.—NO. 107. FALL FASHION SHOW OPENS AND PROVES TO BE FAIRLY FASCINATING Marvels of Paris and New York Are Displayed in San Francisco Stores WOMEN'S GOWNS AND HATS ARE WORKS OF ART Shoppers Crowd City and Study Gorgeous Displays of Dainty Garments * Weather Favors Merchants and Visitors to Downtown Establishments »<mlnine San Francisco went to bed st night with all its heads whirling: rr-a^ly with a kaleidoscopic Jumble of colorful impressions. The great fashion show opened yes terday, and it is hard to believe that any woman but those blind or bed ridden stayed at home. Pan Francisco had a fashion show last spring. All the great stores, prac tically, of the city set forth the best and most attractive of their wares. Women came forth in encouraging 1 numbers, despite the fact that the rains fell with discouraging perseverance. ?o it was decided to have another of these fascinating exhibitions of all the ngs that go to add to the charm and -Tnfort of womankind. Anything like the success of the repe tition of the show it would have been Jmpossi+rte to predict, even by the most optimistic press agent. In the language of the streets, this one has "put t all over" the first ven ture. Thwe are more shops interested; raors wonderful costumes are displayed; th«y aretnore fittingly displayed; every one has learned a thing or two about having a fashion show. AVEAT.HER FAVORS SHOPPER** Then the weather has reformed. No one eonld have had a nicer day for any occasion. The sky was such a wonder ful sunshiny blue that even shabby clothes looked better than usual and the marvels of Paris, New York, San Francisco and all the lesser places that clothes come from shone more rsplen dervtly than ever before. There was not a breath of wind; none of the golden dust of the city Ftreets dared lift one of its tiniest grrains. Every woman was happy—un less she had a horrid, covetous nature and the flattest of purses—because she knew she was looking her best and the altogether womanly half of her nature was being gratified through her artis appreciation of the beautiful cos tumes, the gorgeons evening wraps (nbne such have ever been seen here before in quantities), the smart tailor suits, -the wonderful bizarre hats, the fUmy laces, the cobwebby lingerie, the ■—but why try to enumerate them all in detail? No one saw them in detail this first day. Every one will go back tomorrow and try to get something more than the blurred sense of delight ful wonder-clothes. .Just a few vivid concrete facts re main with one. It's not absolutely necessary to have rings on your fingers nnr yet to ?üb j^t yourself to the discomfort of bells on your toes, but you must, if you ■want to be the least bit smart in your attire, have fringe on your clothes. It may be of beads of any color or mate rial: of Bilk in any shade, to match or contrast; it may be long or short; and it will be quite smart if it's the kind that ie strongly reminiscent of early Victorian lambrequins—but fringe you must have. One costumier said yesterday that the fashions of today are those of IS6O, toned down a bit. There are all the peculiarities of that date with the ruffles and hoop skirts eliminated and Instead the long graceful lines. EMBROIDERY ATfD LACES X^ool embroideries ornament chiffon goTrns or hats or tailor suits or any thing that any one happened to see around when crewels were at hand and the embroidering fit was on. Every evening gown is either pos sessed of a surplice or near-surplice 4orm of bodice; it also comes in many Vyers, one or two different colored hiffona, one perhaps of white or black lace, another of gold or silver lace, per chance a cloth of gold strata, with probably a substrata of satin or taffeta. Dabs of different material and color may be plaecd any place, provided it 3s done by an experienced and highly paid pair of hands with an instinct for color and line backed by a courageous nature. As for the new hats, they remind one of some one in Mother Goose who waa by some means—who remembers how— propelled a great many times as high as the moon. They are monumental in height and form, are many of them, but the greatest variety of fashions pre vail. The real emancipation of woman ar rived when she began to permit hats of any shape and size to exist quite hap pily In one season, and when she began to wear what she—sometimes mis takenly, to be sure—imagined was be coming rather than what the latest thing" might happen to be. Plumes seem to adorn many of the winter's hats, irrespective of what the hat may be —and gold lace was an ad junct of many smart bits of head wear. COLORS IN MANY SHADES As for the colors, along any line of clothes or hats, coronation purple and American Beauty from palest rose to deepest cerise still maintain their pop ularity for evening gowns, but they are modified and veiled so that they may be made becoming to any skin. Black and white Is very smart and many of the imported gowns are in this always attractive combination. Today and tomorrow the show con tinues and all signs point to an equally ardent crowd of interested women. It may be worth while to note that not a few men may be seen among the crowds of spectators—animated, of course, by a purely academic or artistic spirit. 3 8. If. WOOD'S STORE EXHIBITS | MANY TAILORED EFFECTS The fashion show at S. N. Wood's at tractive store did not offer the gay costumes of silk and lace that some of Three* of the Many Beautiful Displays in San Francisco's Annual Fashion Show the shops displayed for the opening of the season. Instead of that display, the strictly tailored effects were the exhibit of the day. The latest word in tailor gowns and the newest thing in tailored hats were the order of the oc casion. The new fall suits, with fc smart touch that comes from the finest tailor shops, were the special attrac tion of yesterday at this shop. The coats in the new polo effects and in the heavy tweeds that are to-be the correct fashion this year are to be found la this store in great variety. In the men's department there was a sort of reflected glory of the fall fash ion show, and here the latest fall suits and the newest axitumn modes and colors were on exhibition. In the juve nile department, where a small boy's outfit may be completed, and where his big brother will find everything to please his taste, the fall show was opened yesterday. The novelties for small boys and youths ar^i the every day clothes are on diajnly and will I tempt the extravagant as well as the economical customer. The fashion show in detail was voted a great success at S. X. Wood's, anfi there were many out of town visitors in the store. There wee not only visitors but buyers from the cities and towns around the bay, because 15 sep arate towns were represented on the sales hooks for the day. The severely tailored costumes have a popularity of their own every year, and this season will not be an exception to the rule. On the contrary, the indications from the opening of the fashion show in tailored gowns would prove that the season would be one where their pop ularity would be greater than in former years. "WISTARIA BOWER" OF LOIISE MECCA OF SHOPPERS "The Wistaria Bower." where Louise has her manicuring: and hairdressing shop, 'exclusively for ladies.' as it is advertised, was the mecna of many of the fashion show shoppers yesterday, who found a comforting and soothing influence there in the gentle ministra tions of Louise's skilled attendants. In the dainty bower, in which the ef fect of the purely white enameled wood work is softened by the garlands of delicate purple wistaria and rosy pink cherry blossoms, tea is served by a little Chinese maid, clad in the gar ments of the orient, and gay with em broideries. Teacups of dull, soft green china are brought to the customers and served with delicate rice wafers. Each day the charm of Louise's shop seems to increase as more of the per sonality of the clever and charming head of the establishment becomes im pressed on the exquisite furnishings. White wicker furniture, all of the particularly comfortable type so grate ful to the tired, shop wearied woman, is made more pleasing to the tired customer by chintz cushions of all sizes, which carry out. the white, purple and pink color scheme. Great bowls of fresh flowers, pink and purple sweet peas predominating, decorate the tables, the little tabourets standing here and there and the wide window slllß. Yesterday the great windows with their creamy curtains were opened to the soft breezes and the balmy air of San Francisco's perfect autumn days, so that, with the blossomy surroundings, it was difficult to believe one's self In the heart of the city. Skilled manicurists and hair dressers ply their dainty trades in this veritable -bower," and the rosy polished finger tips and softly burnished, glistening coiffures which go forth, as well as the distinctly modish type of hairdressing, testify to the high standard of work manship that Louise insists shall char acterize her successful and delightful place of business. EMPORIUM WINDOW DISPLAYS DRAW LARGE CROWDS The Emporium opened the fashion show yesterday in a brilliant manner with a window display of effective gowns ajid costumes that attracted ad miring crowds during the day. In the second floor of the Jarge establishment the finest costumes were shown and a temporary stage had been erected where the models could promenade in the latest importations from abroad. There were scores of beautiful gowns shown during the afternoon, but a few were noticeably elegant. One was a Paquin model of rich black silk velvet trimmed with ermine and macrame lace on the shoulders and bodice. The gown was finished with an elaborate Amer ican beauty corsage and made en train. Another gown that merited special admiration from the throng of visitors was a Doucet creation. The gown was gold embroidered lace fash ioned over pink chiffon and enveloped Jn military blue velvet over drapery that clung in close lines to the figure. The elaboration was white fox trim ming and a gold tissue corsage. The Poiree model that was displayed yesterday at the Emporium will be re membered as one of the prettiest gowns in the assortment. The gown was tiellue over pearl satin. The over drape was richly designed in Bulgarian effects and bordered with white fox. The imported gowns were the center of attraction yesterday, but the visitors wandered through the cloak and suit department and admired the millinery display. There were waists of every descrip tion that will please the fashionable women who are looking for the newest models of the season. The waists were THE San Francisco CALL SAN FRANCISCO, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 1911. •♦— —t—-—^ _ _ r —; ;.. ,> ■ in varied colors. and : the \ favorite ma terials ?of satin and chiffon ! with their unique embroideries were part of the fashion show. The blouses of Irish . lace and i fine r chiffons in the delicate shades of the » season are to ;be * found in the waist"; department. ; The rich oriental effects ~ with f f their splendid variety will please those who want a more elaborate waist than \ the simple combinations of silk and lace. ; \v^ PRUSSIA COMPAJfY DISPLAYS ELABORATE COWIfS The display of gowns at the Prussia company in Geary street is among the most elaborate that San Francisco has to offer. Simplicity of line, combined with costly trimming is the keynote of its exhibition, not only in evening.robes, but in cloaks and suits as well. The side effect that appears in every article of feminine apparel may be seen to perfection in one of Madame Agnes' latest models that adorns the window. A white charmeuse tunic richly em broidered in a conventional design of pearl and crystal flounce of chiffon, trimmed in the same manner, falls over an underdress of black charmeuse. A panel train of black lined with the same material in American beauty falls from the •waist line in a coronation ef fect. The beauty of this train lies in the fact that It may be looped up In the back so that a round length skirt may be obtained. The bodice Is made of rich lace, kimono fashion, and is trimmed both front and back with black charmeuse revers edged with tassels of crystal and American beauty beads. Another stunning creation is of blue chiffon crepe made in tunic effect over baby blue chiffon. The chiffon is again introduced in the bodice and sleeves, which are made kimono fashion as to setting, but finished differently at the base- One Is edged with a tiny band of fur, while the other is flowing loose ly from the shoulder to just above the elbow. The band of pearl trimming •%bout the bottom of the gown is re lated in one sleeve and on the bodice \bove the waist line. GOLDEN GATE CLOAK A SUIT HOUSE PRICES POPULAR At the Golden Gate Cloak and Suit House there were 20 distinct styles of tailored suits with scores of cloaks and suits that will be sold at popular prices this season. The plain tailored suits in navy blue, brown, black and the new coronation shade are to be the vogrue this winter, and these models are an attractive array. The coats of the tailored suits that will be popular this year are of medium length and the skirts are made with the panel front and in pleated effects. "While the tailored suits are the prin cipal attraction in this store the coats have an almost equally prominent place. The season is to be one pre-eminently for coats of every description and there are many coats at the Golden Gate Cloak and Suit House for those who wish to make a selection from the handsome stock. The popular colors are gray, green and the coronation shade with double faced materials holding first place foi general favor. These reversible coats will be found in this store of moderate prices. There are evening dresses of sim ple design in this shop and others of more elaborate pretension with the popular fringe trimming and the Bul garian beadwork that is the demand of the hour for adornment. There are house dresses and little afternoon gowns for the woman who wants to invest in a raodeet gown of either de "scrlption. The fancy tailored suits are almost in equal number and variety with the plain tailored suits in this establish ment. There are trimmed street suits that will take the fancy of those who do not entirely approve of the more severe styles in broadcloth.and tweeds. There are trimmed coats with the late braiding and fancy Persian embellish ments and scores of patterns for the selection of the buyer who is planning for this sort of winter suit rather than the plainer styles that are offered in this store of popular modes. PRAGERS STORE THRONGED BY MOTHERS AND CHILDREN There was a throng of visitors yes terday at Pragers Btore, and the va rious departments were crowded all day with shoppers, who came not only from the city but from the towns around the bay. The popular depart ment store entertained the little vis itors as well as their elders. The children's playground is a square of 20,000 feet, where the little ones en- Joyed a frolic while their mothers were busy inspecting the latest fashions that opened the show yesterday. The department of infants' and chil dren's wear was exceedingly popular, and the new fall styles for little peo ple were thoroughly approved by the shoppers. There were white coats and effective little hats and bonnets, not to mention the many accessories that complete an outfit for a child. The department for misses' wear was a busy seen" during the opening hours of the fashion show. There all the popular priced dresses, hats and neck wear will be found in pleasing variety. The ready to wear clothes for misses and their mothers are to be found in tßls shop and the new tailor suits are here in fine assortment. The new shades of navy blue, brown and coro nation are everywhere prominent in the showing of fall suits at Pragers, and there are hats also in the latest colors to matrh the dresses. The newest shoes make the outfit complete at Pragers for the shopper who is visiting from town or country to see and buy the latest things to wear at popular prices. The fashion show was welcomed with enthusiasm at Pragers, and every de partment was in gala attire for the oc casion. There is an art department where the decorations were in the autumn colors, and the new styles in stationery will be sold not only during the remaining days of the fashion show, but all season. There are new silks and dress goods and every sort of household goods that will please the purchaser in future days as well as during the fashion show this week. HALE BROTHERS' MILLINERY HAS GREAT BEAUTY In all the attractions offered In the various departments of Hale Brothers' store the millinery display was con spicuous for its beauty and variety. There was a larger assortment of hats than ever has been offered in previous seasons to the public, and scores^ of pretty hats of every new model were in evidence. There were imported creations without number, and hun dreds, of untrimmed hats that will ap peal to the popular fancy. The outing hats are varied In shape and sise, with the smaller models taking first favor, of course, and the finished felts and fur felts in endless variety. The imported hats vary in type from the chic French models to the large picture hats with novelty feather trim ming. The small hats with the pro nounced bow trimming of silk and vel vet in the bonnet shapes will remain in favor this season, but the demand is growing for large hats of velvet and draped with elaborate feathers, wings or embroidery of Persian and Bulgarian design. All the new shades are to be found at Hales' stor* from the coronation to the simple black and white or the king's blue confections that will be worn extensively this winter. The suits to match the hat« at Hales are from the popular priced variety to the expensive cloths and fancy ma terials. There is a fine assortment of colts, for eveTy woman must have a coat this season if she would be up to the minute in her wearing apparel. The necl*wear forms an effective dis play as part of the fashion show. There are marlbou capes with the muffs and stoles of maribou that are to be in high favor this season. It is to be a sea son of laces, and so laces are every where on display. The fichu effects and the lace collars promise an unprecedented popularity for laces. The Venise laces are here in fine array, and there are allover laces and fine net trimmings that will appeal to the. fastidious woman who wants many laces. The trimmings and the pretty beaded effects with the Bul garian and Persian designs are sure to popular from the first indications of the fashion show. | CITY OF PARIS LAVISH WITH I PERFECT GARMENTS In the City of Par'.s the lavish dis play of costly raiment is almost ap palling. From the cloaks and dresses and quantities of costly stuffs that fill the windows, to the elaborate negli gees and hand embroidered lingerie which is a feature of the second floor, everything is perfect One of their most stunning coats Is made of old gold pan velvet belted in back, and while full above the waist it Is ex tremely narrow below. A broad band of macrame lace over dark green corded silk, about the knees, and a fur edging to the broad revers give the finishing .touches to the costume. A Frenchy evening coat seen in this store is of white satin made in cape and tunic effect, each fold' of which is finished with a two inch silk fringe. The loose bishop sleeves are also fringed. A sunflower with center of chiffon and petals of white satin con ceals the fastening in front. A striking three piece costume that may be seen is of gray pan velvet. The overskirt of the same material is draped in a shawl effect In front and is edged with silk fringe. The waist of gray chiffon is embroidered in heavy silk of the same shade and a large buckle at the side finishes the broad belt. The coat, also of pan velvet, has a broad shalw collar of chiffon velvet with reverg of the pan, and is finished with a deep silk fringe. Among the exquisite gowns seen in this store, one that is particularly pleasing is of white tulle elabarately embroidered in clusters of gold and silver flowers. The high waistline is marked by a belt of blue satin that re peats the color of the satin under dress. A Frenchy touch is given in a ribbon of pink that carries out the shawl effect in both front and back and in the pearl trimming which embel lishes the neck and the loose sleeves. This gown is round length, as are many of the gowns for the young girls and debutantes. Quite as rich, though less appealing to feminine fancy in point of color smd elaboration, is a tailor made calling suit of white broadcloth. The lines are long and straight and the whole cos tume is simple in the extreme. A nar row collar of the material, with revers, finishes the neck and the only trim ming appears in the buttons in front and three small buttons on each sleeve. The skirt is plain with panels in front and back and is a round length. ROOS BROTHERS' MAIf MADE SUITS ARE STYLISH The display in Roos Brothers con sists for the most part of strictly man made tailor suits of unparalleled cut and material. Navy blues, browns, grays, and mannish mixtures are the princi pal colors shown while the ma terials are the evar popular diag onal. men's wear serge and Lon don weave- In style the exertmely simple is affected, the skirts being plain and the coats loose fitting with straight lines. Among the most dashing of their suits was one in whip cord in ink blue. The collar, with revers of the same material, is narrow and the only em bellishments the coat posseses are three buttons at the back of each sleeve. The skirt is paneled both front and back and is devoid of trtm ' minp. Another dashing suit is of mixed goods, brown, blue and gray being the J principal colors seen. The coat has j four buttons, man style, and the coat i skirt is plain with plaits, giving it a I little fullness at the sides. Reversible coats in double faced im ported London cloths are also shown in this store. These wraps, white ex ceedingly warm, are light in weight and, as such, are an almost indispensa ble comfort in the winter wardrobe. One handsome article is of dark gray lined with lavender and trimmed with three large buttons in front. The standing collar fits closely about the throat, and the coat is finished with deep pockets, lavender lined. A brown coat with plaid collar in black and gray is also worthy of note. Roos Brothers also show an exten sive line of purses, including beaded and silver ware and embroidered taffe tas. Long 1 black cords ending in tas sels are attached so as to fit over the shoulder and the purses are carried in much the same manner as a knapsack. A line of scarfs of beaded silks and net and chiffon drapes in dainty ahades of blue, pink and. lavender is likewise shown. kokmg & collins display handsome: costumes Koenig & Collins showed some rich and handsome costumes for older women, among them «ne In the popu ular shade of eminence purple which is much in vogue this season. It is a three piece suit of combined velvet and chiffon, with stovepipe hat to match. On the right side of the waist, a rever of chiffon heavily embroidered in silk and finished at the ejlge with a double fold of the material is carried to the broad velvet girdle where it is fastened with a buckle of the same. The yolk of chiffon, which is exceedingly plain, is finished with a stiff high collar com ing in points under the ears and edged with a tiny braiding of silver at the top. The long train ending in a fan tall is heavily fringed and the same effect is carried out in the edging of the short sleeves. The coat to match this costume is of velvet with shawl collar of chiffon elaborated with embroidery in shades of purple and fringed in silk at the edge. The hat. which is small and very high, is massed in purple velvet to give It a soft appearance. A bird of paradise In purple tones and a rim of dull silver complete it. Koenig & Collins are also showing a full line of silk petticoats in the most ravishing shades and trimmed with flounces of accordion plaited silk or with edges of pinking. Chiffon flounces over satin are also shown, and those in which lace is inset or which are em broidered in contrasting shades of silk are also popular. D. SAMUELS LACE vHOUSE HAS GORGEOUS PUR COATS '-]■{'•■ r D. Samuels Lace House is showing a gorgeous array of automobile and evening Revlllon fur coats. Their se lection is unusually rich and comprises all kinds and styles, including the Hud son seal, the mole, white pointed fox, caracul, raccoon, red and cross fox and skunk fur. Pony coats, especially those trimmed with Australian possum, are exceedingly popular. One striking coat which seen here is of the mole skin and is trimmed with a shawl collar and broad revers of Sltka fox. The broad cuffs are also of fur and the skirt of the coat is trimmed at the side with large buttons of the same. Another stunning thing is a coat, the upper portion of which is Hudson seal and the skirt of baby caracul. The Hudson seal collar and buttons of the same are its only adornment. An er mine coat trimmed with silver fox is among the store's most prized posses sions. In evening dresses there is also a remarkable selection. Some of Sam uels' most recerft imported models are Quaker costumes in iridescent taffeta with gray, pink and blue as the pre dominent colors. The skirts are round length and are inclined to plainness, and the waists are finished with white lace shawls which cross both in front and back. A black velvet Paquin calling gown made in tunic effect with real Duchesse lace shawl is a striking creation, as is a tapestry "blue charmeuse of Dracoll's manufacture, which is elaborates with chenille trimming. ■ ■ « ■ ■ ■ . «<-4am i D. N. * E. ; WALTER ;/ATTRACT;- ' ATTENTION TO RUGS Rugs in their variety ar« making a veritable wonder shop of the establish ment of D. N. & E- Walter, and yester day many of the shoppers of the fashion Show took their minds from the frip pery of feminine garments longr enough to feaat their eyes on the marvelous floor coverings of the oriental weavers. Of all the rugs to be seen one stands out as a veritable treasure, even in the midst of riches. A rug from Persia valued at $6,000, to make a concrete' statement of what the world at large thinks of it, presents a PAGES 11 TO 18 PRICE FIVE CENTS. STYLES OF '60 TONED DOWN TO GRACEFUL LINE Smart Attire Draped in Fringes and Beads of Early Vic torian Days Tailor Suits, Long Coats and Monumental Millinery Are Attractive surface 10x15 which fairly takes one's breath away with its beauty. On a soft gray silk ground these artists of Persia have grown a garden of wonderful dimmed blue and softly iridescent red flowers, leaves, delicate traceries of branches and unconventional conven tionalized palm boughs and trees, the whole finished with a border of all the quaint symbols of the oriental rug makers. It is in reality a museum piece, and to tread this garden would be almost a sacrilege. . Tn addition to the rugs there is an other special feature in the antique French furniture, of which a limited supply has been obtained. W. D. McCann. formerly of the firm of McCann, Belcher & Allen, is now with the Walters and he secured on a recent trip abroad the entire furnish ings of an old French chateau, and these are being offered to the public of San Francisco. There is some exquis ite old mahogany, some Aubusson tap estry sets and some fascinating antique fixtures.. Some of Liberty's most individual draperies and silks are to be seen also in the wonderful colorings characteris- tic of the London firm. ; ii.; ■.' kreiss . A c sons* SHOP FULL OF FURNITURE Tn connection ■with the fashion show is offered as an attraction ©f a differ ent sort a wonderful display of furni ture, draperies and other articles that go distinctively to making homes home like, at the shop of L. Kreiss & Sons. The .great show -windows are so clev erly arranged as to display in each irfstance something distinctive In fur niture. One window displays a set of Adams hand painted bedroom furniture. This is considered just now absolutely the last word in bedroom furniture. The set is of satin wood, the exquis ite surface being embellished with ar tistic paintings in the daintiest colors. In another window Is a handsome set of Sheraton dining room, furniture which is considered one of the best examples of that designer's work. The third window is filled with re productions of English furniture of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, made after some of the best work of that time. All of It is in handsome dull oak, a large table and several types of the dignified high backed chairs of that period making the display beautiful. In the interior of the shop are to be seen some notable examples of what is really best in handsome mahogany, both of the exquisite dark finish and In the lighter shades. Some of the latest and most exquisite draperies are to be seen there, repro ductions of antique French tapestries, heavy with embroideries Af gold and in all the delicate shades of rose, gray, blue and soft greens. v MAGNIN'S • imported >) ' gowns - AI»D WRAPS GORGEOira ;;^_ J* Imported evening gowns and wrapi in all the wonderful colors of the rain bow, and then come hues that bo old fashioned rainbow ever had. are the main features of the fashion show at I. Alagnln & Co.'s shop, and displays and sales are keeping ail the employes busy. In the front of the shop on the second floor a display of some of the most costly and distinctive of frowns and wraps has been arranged. A double platform runs around the entire room, protected by a oord, and figures stand there displaying the wonders of cos tumes that no woman, and certainly few men, can resist. One of the most distinctive of these is a Callot model. It has a white satin drop, covered with sliver lace. The bodice Is heavily beaded with pearls, with rhinestones, set like tiny stars, the neck being finished with a garnet bead necklace. The skirt and the lower part of the bodice are draped with rainbow chiffon, forming a tunic ef fect, and the colors shading from coro nation purple to American beauty. Another gown so unusual in type as to attract immediate attention is of white satin, trimmed with silk fringe, having a tunic in an aproniike effect of black net, embroidered in silver, finished in silver fringe and terminat ing in the front in a queer fishtail point. The bodice of this is in lace. Yet another gown of black chiffon and satin and gold hued chiffon is embroidered in old fashioned woolwork of black, golJ, brown and red. The evening wraps arß in gorgeous oriental brocades of the heaviest fab rics, loose around the upper part and fitting* close around the lower figure. A Paul Poiret wrap that was most beautiful was of deep purple velvet and a Turkish toweling of burnished gold, the garment being lined with deep cerise. GOULD, SULLIVAN A CO. SHOW CHARMING FAHIONS Gowns of elaborate make and j costly fabrics, as well as those of charming fashion, but less I expensive, mark the ' opening of I the fashion 1 show jat • Gould, Sullivan & Co.'s. Against a background of subdued hangings %nd richly ' tinted ' woods, the soft f hues imported gowns are shown i most advantageously. One of the most : exquisite of these is of black chiffon, made over black f net, dotted in gold \ and having an elaborate garniture of gold and silver lace. The j skirt is fin ished An a band of velvet and fr^pga.