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What ihe City Dwellers Wear, Eat, Do and Look Like When They Make the Sunday Pilgrimage Across the
Golden Gate to Climb the Mystical Mountains ol Mann YOUNG San Francisco does not take its hill climbing as seriously as the Alpine youth Longfellow tells about, who "bore 'mid snow and ice a banner with the strange device. Excelsior." No wonder it was written of this youth: "His brow was sad; his eye beneath flashed like a falchion from its sheath." It served him right, thinks young San Francisco, for not coming to California to do his climbing. .besides, what an a\yfyi amount of work Tamal-Pious and risk Just to advertise a mattress factory! On a recent Sunday morning a youth, clad in misfit khaki and wearing a red band around his hat, stepped up to the ticket window and asked for a round trip for Mill Valley, the starting point at his hike up Mount Tamalpais. The red hatband bore the strange device: "Everybody's doing it." They were. The great waiting hall was jammed with people of both sexes and all ages and conditions, all bound for Marin county and the larger part of them for Tamalpais or its surrounding canyons. The same huge crowd awaited every ferry during the earlier hours of the morning. For it is not Golden Gate park, but Tamalpais, that is Just now the great playground of San Francisco. And nowhere can be found a crowd more representative of the varied types and varied life of San Francisco than on the lower decks of the Sausalito.. steamers on holidays. They arrive early and in such num bers on Sundays that one does well to take the precaution to buy one's ticket earlier in the week. The very first boat draws the sportsmen with fishing •rods, gum boots, guns and dogs. They're off for the great rocks that catch the sea roll along the Golden gate or for the marshes or the foot hills. Else they have dates with such craft as launches and catboats. Among the early risers will also be found the men who have planned long hikes to Bolinas, Camp Taylor and other distant points. Those with a less strenuous day ahead take it more leisurely. At 8 o'clock you see the ferry at its liveliest. There is not another such scene in all the wide world. Music is everywhere, not the sad and solemn music of Puritan tradition, but happy stuff running to syncopated time and filled with the joy of living. It's the "Gee, I'm glad I'm alive" kind of music one hears at the ferry. The brass bands run to about eight instruments and to blue uniforms. But the drum corps put the rainbow to shame. No red is too red and no blue is too blue for a drum corps uniform. Each band of musicians heads a picnic. The Happy Hooligan Social club is bound for Fern brook park, the Ancient Order of Jay birds for Schuetzen, the Finnish so ciety for Shell Mound and so on, with a few labor union annual gatherings thrown in. Every one enjoys that early boat ride. Some use the time to eat break fast, others to read the Sunday papers over a morning pipe, others in watch ing the scenes inside; but nature lovers always fill the open decks to enjoy the water, the headlands and the .passing crafts. It's a careless sort of crowd. One class of passengers recalls the actions of young animals. All week they've worked long and hard in the factory or shop, these girls and boys, and their joy in freedom shows itself in whacking each other with newspapers and mak ing peculiar screeches. When young couples like each other they make as few bones about publicly demonstrat ing their affection as they do in chew ing gum. This all passes as a matter of course. The train is not so colorful as the ferry. But when it hauls up at the Mill Valley terminus, then you may see the Tamalpais hiker in all his variety, ranging from the callow youth to the staid business man who is under the doctor's order to shake up his liver. The callow youth leads in point of numbers. He is always one of a bunch of from six to a dozen. His clothing generally follows his personal idio syncracies. Sometimes he wears a sec ond hand khaki army suit with the buttons changed. All army goods are popular with hikers, principally by rea son of their cheapness. Then, too, the youth likes the feel of military things. Haversacks and canteens are carried in lafge numbers even by women, and the old fashioned knapsack,, good for a trunk load, is often In sight. If he can afford something better the youth is likely to suy one of those nobby washable suits in green or brown cot ton put out by big clothing houses, with fancy patch pockets, pleats and belts and a pegtop effect to the trou sers. A variety of taste is exhibited in hats. Perhaps the general favorite is the sec ond hand army campaign hat; but the navy is there with the white duck headpiece. The two branches of the service are. in fact, quite often recon ciled on the same. person, in the A sbape of a duck hat and. a khaki uniform. Wornout civilian felt hats, given a rakish touch by leather or rattlesnake skin band, have it nip and tuck with the golf cap. .. * • . But boots after all is the big issue. No hiker counts himsett out of the novice class until he owns a pair; of boots. -The weight in oil leather packed firound on hot, summer trails positively moves "the bbserver tb pity. It is the Initiates great joy to have a pair knee high, with straps and ' buckles at the top. Boots cost money—so much that when the youthful hiker hasn't any it's a pretty sure sign he can't afford them. Then come leggings, which can be got now for six bits, and old at half that price. Leggings take on several shapes, from the high ones with foot straps to the shot ones like puttees. Many old hikers prefer leggings to high boots on account of their light weight and coolness. Leather puttees, which are horsey things and obviously out of place on the trail, are not un common. The shoes one sometimes sees un- > der these leggings, or worn with the straight khaki, are often strangely at variance. But the saddest sight is to meet a man on a long, hot.climb wear ing low patent leathers with high heels. Once in a while a girl tries Tamalpais in velvet slippers, but it is safe to say she doesn't try it twice. Next comes the hiker in street clothes padded at the shoulders. If he ha* a starched shirt and a white collar, it is a safe bet he is green at the game and didn't know what to expect. There is a certain class of foreigners who seem able to enjoy the country in black suits, white collars and derby hats, and a group or two of them may be found doing the mountain on any Sunday. But they don't really enjoy themselves—they only pretend to. * A man can't get close to nature when he is afraid for his clothes. Like the boys, the young girls run to khaki or sailor effects, and they also roll up their sleeves and open their throats in the hope of acquiring sunburn. Sunburn, producing tan, is actually courted by the young folk. Many ex pose about all the skin surface consist ent with the proprieties. Pallor has long ceased to be fashionable in Amer ican life, if it ever was in California. Pallor indicates confinement to the counter or machine, and hence Implies that the possessor can't get away on vacations. Fb It Is some satisfaction to show the smart set that go!f and polo are not the only things that develqp tan. Hiking means emancipation. If you don't believe It, just take a look at the divided skirts worn by the women. If it isn't the divided skirt, it is at least on old fashioned skirt of sufficient width to allow plenty of freedon. The hobble has no place on the trail. If one thing begins early to loom higher than the mountain itself, it is the question of lunch. Few devotees of the trail have the strength of will to hold out until noon. No person could eat a picnic lunch in a city and survive. But the booming air of the hills not only arouses the stomach to a new sense of responsibil ities and duties, but seems to invent new digestive fluids. What a conglom eration of stuff is hidden in those paste board shoe boxes. If put up by men, or for men, it runs largely to cold meat and cheese. But when girls are in the party, It inclines toward sWeet pickles, hardboiled eggs, olives, fudge and rich cakes—for has not the poet written that the female of the species is more deadly than the male? ICvery party is supplied, with a kodak or two, which affords a big part s of the fun. Snaps are taken of every- , thing—even scenery. But the main thing Is tha group. "Hey, Jim, you sit down and let Gertie stand on the log. And, Henry, you trade hats with Maggie. Gee, that's funny! Here, stoop-down,.. Tom, and let pop have a chance." And so it goes. Whenever Tom gets : into-any novel or adventurous pot.iv — he demands to be snapped. Jim asks for the same privilege when he looks funny, for his antics when he puts on a girl's hat bring shrieks and whoops of laughter from his admirers. The girls prefer a romantic pose -with an effective piece of scenery in the back ground. There are two ways of going up Tamalpais. The first has enough climb ing in it, starting as it does over the hog's back hill that slopes from the 'north down to the town's main busi ness Section. Yet this is a broad and easy'way compared to the trail ser pentining up; from.-the water reservoir at the end of the cascade road. Still, to scramble with feet and hands from the reservoir side has its rewards in being protected from the sun in the early part, with mountain herbage to all sides and a wonderful view on emerging into the open. For down right "meanness, the last shortcut to the summit over loose, sliding rock, stands alone. This shortcut is gen erally taken by those who begin on the broad and easy way. Here's where the girl with the velvet slippers and the boy with the patent leather danc ing pumps wish they had put on more substantial footwear. Formerly the summit was more pop ular than now. Its main attraction is the wide panorama covering bay, hills, ranges and distant mountain Islands, peninsula and ocean. For the benefit of strangers, sections of gaspipe have been fixed upon posts as locators. Through one you may peep at Mount Diablo, while another affords a circu lar peep at the Farallones, and so on. But the national park known as the Muir woods is at this tipie the ob jective point of most walkers. Its en chantments are of a more delicate kind—fern, wood flowers, mosses and soft leaved bushes, protected by the shades of giant pines and redwoods. Fallen monarchs of the forest lie across the deep ravines, where streams dash over the stones with all the wild ness of the* high Sierras. It' t s a won derful picture of real mountain scenery for. tourists. The Muir woods, or the part of it popularly called Redwood canyon, was but little visited a few years back. Now, where but an adventurous few ever camo, are hundreds and perhaps thousands of visitors. Every nook is held down by a party sitting on Sun day papers, which serve alike as table cloth and carpet. Sunday papers and empty shoe boxes are the great grief of the management. Sacks are hung all over Tamalpais country with painted signs, asking visitors please to put their debris in them.. Too often this request, which it ought to be a part of local patriotism to comply with, is disregarded. Travelers who know Europe say there are few spots In Switzerland as entrancing as the Muir woods. It would take an absence of imagination to re sist its spell. Yet, not every one re acts In the same way to its charms. Some hike to sit quietly in esthetic, enjoyment. But the young folk in khaki feel its influence more boister ously. "Liz, come here and pull me up," cries a. mijss with the accent of the factory. "I've eat so much I can't move." One crowd plays football with some one's hat. There a bunch whack each other with rolls of newspaper. Some wade in the stream. An accordion starts a party to dancing. Others limber up on baseball, with girls tak ing an active part in the game. Still, one sees surprisingly little coarse play, taking it all together. In the late afternoon and evening th« Sausalito ferries hound for San Fran cisco show in an exaggerated form the peculiarities of the morning. The khaki has lost its stiffness and taken on stains of toil. Youths are garlanded with fern and wood flowers, reminis cent of the old pagan revels. Songs are taken up by the crowd. The Ger mans usually make a first rate glee club. But for the popular ditties of the hour nothing Inspires like an ao cordion. So it Is song and dance on the way home. No doubt there are those who ob ject that this sort of thing doesn't fit in with the Puritan conception of the way a Sabbath should be spent. The answer is a square look at tha faces of the ,young people in khaki. Tno San Francisco Sunday Call SfTOTSAX- BORtSUra - -A3! XVfc In the morning there was still the un healthy pallor of the workshop in their faces. Evening shows a wonderful transformation, for there is real color in the cheeks underneath the sun burn. For one day they've really lived; they've seen the great works of the Creator; their warped view of tha world has been straightened. It may be said to the advocates of International peace that if the army has done nothing more than to intro duce the wearing of khaki it has well repaid the nation for the outlay in its maintenance.