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xne San Francisco Sunday uau
Significance of the New Birth DO you know which of all gems is your special gem—which is your birth month stone? Of course, you know that you are represented in the world of jewels by a gem or two, but ran you tell which they are? The jewelers at their convention held recently In Kansas City agreed on an official list of natal stones. This Is no arbitrary choice. The list has been sanctioned by the wise in such lore through the ages, and the modern Jew elers have merely put their stamp on the oldest known record. Henceforth it is to be the standard list of gems for the months. Januarys gem is the deep hued gar net, indicative of constancy and fidelity. "Let January's maiden be All garnet gemmed with constancy," the couplet runs, and the garnet is surely worthy of representing trust and faith, for there is no more reliable and unchangeable gem. Besides, it has the recommendation of being per petually fashionable. True, It has, like any other gems, its seasons of greater or less popularity, but it has always been a steady favorite. Perhaps this is on account of its adaptability and general usefulness, for it Iβ not one of those narrow and limited gems that look well only in certain articles of adornment; every piece of jewelry can be made handsome and elegant when set with the dark blood red garnet. Who does not admire those sets of garnet studded jewels that adorned our grandmothers in their young days? Their charm and fascination linger, and many are the proud inheritors of such jewels, who exhibit on rounded arms gold bracelets closely set with myriads of tiny garnets, and lockets, mounted "with the dense colored stone, are hung on the loveliest garnet set chains. Ear rings and brooches and rings, combs and pins are all set with the gem of the first month of the year. "In fitful February it's a verity The amethyst denotes sincerity." And so for February we have the amethyst, known in America as the most popular of all the lesser gems. Its beautiful violet rays capture the heart of all of us, and the person born in February we consider very lucky. "What, oh, what shall a March maid do? Wear a bloodstone and be firm and true." She will also have courage and pres ence of mind, for these as well the bloodstone will give her. But the dark green stone with the bright vermilion spots Is a stern, unrelentless gem that is not suitable for any but the more formal jewelry. For daytime wear in pins and buckels or signet rings, and for jewelry for the sterner sex it is ail very well, but in jewels for dress oc casions and at night in artificial light it is utterly impossible; so the thought ful jeweler, who knows the limitations and appreciates the peculiarities of all gems, has deemed it advisable to name an alternate gem for March, and the delicate sky blue aquamarine has *been chosen for the place. This stone is cited in many an old list, of Russian origin, as representative for March, So those born during the month of winds have a choice between the bloodstone and the aquamarine. "The April girl has a brave defense. The diamond guards her innocence." Everybody admires the diamond, and, since it is the most used of all gems, it can not be held representative only of the month of April; still we will all envy the girl born in that month, for no one can cheapen her birthday gift; it must contain a diamond to symbol ize her month. "Sweet child of May, you'll taste the caress Of the emerald's promised happiness." The brilliant green of early spring seems reflected In May's gem, and, with the combination It possesses of wondrous beauty and tremendous price, the "sweet child" who owns an em erald might well be happy. "Pearls for the girls of June— precious wealth, And to crown it all they bring her health." Here is one of the oldest traditions, and the June pearl Is known through out all the world, but there is another gem that vies v.ith it for first place for June —the moonstone, which has Ailments Due to High Heeled Shoes IX learning to walk with infinite dif ficulty during infancy, the muscles of the lower limbs are trained to maintain tome degree of equilibrium when the body is stationary in an up right position with the heel flat on the ground or only moderately raised. If this static position of the foot is changed by using excessively high heels and thus strongly inclining the sole, the anjcle between the foot and the leg is increaeed and the lower limb is sup ported only by the toes. In this po sition the muscular equilibrium of the leg and foot is destroyed. The muscles of the posterior region must then con tract in order to maintain the foot in tkis abnormal position. %£, may readily be understood that if, in order to rest the foot, a person who habitually wears high heeled shoes uses heelless slippers at home, the muscles of the leg are put to a rude test, which they are unable to endure. Pains, con tractions, swelling of the foot, enlarge ment of the veins and misshapen toes are the result, all these ailments be ing due to this deplorable physiological practice. Doctor Dagron of Paris in a very sug gestive article on this subject, pub lished in the Gazette Medicale, states that in addition to those immediate symptoms secondary symptoms due to the excessively high hels always pre cede other later complications. He de scribes the cases of a patient In whom he recently observed that the tendone OF INTEREST TO MAID AND MATRON been put on the new official list as a substitute for the pearl. It was a good Idea, to add it, for it is not every one who can wear the lus trous pearl, and although they may try time and again there are those who have no success in keeping the pearl unspoiled; the sheen will go and the delicate tints change to cloudy brown. For those unfortunate people there is the illusive moonstone. It can hardly be compared with the lovely pearl, however, and few who are born in June will prefer a moonstone to a pearl. "The ruby stole a spark from heaven above, To bring: the July maiden fervent love." The r\iby and the deep red rose, em blems of love, are the truest symbols of vivid July. * "The August maiden with sweet sim plicity Wears sardonyx, gem of felicity." But she doesn't always have to, now adays. She can wear the saucy peridot and still have a gem symbolic of August, for those kind Jewelers have decided that an alternate for the sturdy sardonyx was imperative, and what could be more In contrast to it than the bright sparkling peridot? The stately sardonyx is not a prac tical gem for all purposes, and so, for the same reason that was given for naming a substitute for the March bloodstone, the peridot is put on the official list for August, and for the dull, flesh toned sard may be exchanged the dark olive green of the peridot. "Out. of the depths shall sapphires come. Bringing September's child wisdom." Sapphires are the gems of the mo ment; their deep blue lines have captured the laurel of fashion, and the Lady, of Vogue is wise enough to appreciate the extreme beauty of this glorious gem. "October's child In darkness oft may grope, The iridescent opal bids it hope." Because there are etill those folk who believe the opal might bring ill luck the jewelers have thoughtfully named another gem with the opal for October. Those sceptical about the opal need not forgo the beauty of color found in that gem, for the tourmaline is its alternate and the choice of color is most varied. There are green, brown, pink, red and violet tourmalines; others of blue, from light sea blue to bluish black; and there are tourmalines of white and black, sometimes two colors are seen in cne gem; they may be green externally, but looking through this shimmering layer can be seen the deep red heart of the stone. An inch long tourmaline may be the purest blue at one end and shade into vivid green at the other end. There are so many combinations and ar rangements in the color of tourmalines that it comes the nearest of any stone to the colorful opal itself. "Born in November, happy is she Whom the topaz teaches fidelity." There is plenty of promise and en- couragement for the November maid; besides the fidelity she shall know, an other authority foresees trustworthy friends and lovers for her. "Who first comes to this wofld below With drear November's fog and snow Should prize the topaz , amber hue, Emblem of friends and lovers true," is the way this verse runs, and It is easy to believe in all things good from the sun reflecting topaz. "December's child shall live to bless The turquoise that insured success." One of the most popular of all the gems and the brightest hued of all the opaque stones, it has been the favorite of princes, artists and gem admirers throughout the ages. The turquoise is the beauty loving Sarah Bernhardt's favorite gem. But there are those who can not wear the turquoise without having it turn color; they can only look on sadly while the brilliant and most beautiful blue gem changes by degrees to a muddy green, and for these disappointed persons there is a solace in the lovely lapis-lazuli. "If cold December gave you birth, The month of snow and Ice and mirth, Place on your hand a turquoise blue, Success will bless you if you do." Aft of these gems have such beauty aiyl charm that no one is warranted in envying his neighbor. All may well say, "My birthstone is a beautiful gem," and be thankful to the practical jew elers for deciding on them for us. of the deep seated muscles of the pos terior region were covered with pain ful, semisoft swellings, giving practi cally the same sensation as an abscess. The patient, who was considered to be suffering , from varicose veins, In the month of June was recommended to practice brisk walking, gradually In creasing the distance covered. Hβ did so, and the pains in the legs became worse. The subject was then advised to go for the season to Bagnoles de l'Orne. The treatment at that resort was put off till the autumn, as the patient did not wish to leave the family during its sojourn at the seaside. The walking exercise was continued, and such lone excursions were made that the invalid was at last obliged to remain in bed. A doctor who was consulted found In the posterior region of the leg, the most painful part, a tumor aa large as a walnut. This caused great suffering , . The adjacent parts were swollen and β-n abcess was diagnosed, on which It was proposed to perform an Immediate op eration. Doctor Dagron, on being called In to examine the patient, ascribed the ail ment to the use of excessively high heels, and. as a matter of fact, a com plete cure was effected by a period of repose followed by exercises In walking: with shoes which had normal heels. Doctor Dagron concludes by remark ing that the devotees of fashion, In at tempting to add to their height, make a strange mistake In employing such means. EDITED Begin Early to Teach Your Children How to Cook BEGIN early to develop in your girls a pride in household achievement. Late one afternoon, after, a long, rainy day, a mother called her little girl to her. "Mary," she said, "will you make a raspberry pudding for dinner tonight?" "Oh, mother. I couldn't," the child exclaimed, but her little face was alive with interest and delight. "Of course you can," said the mother. "Get a pencil and paper and I will give you the recipe. If you do exactly as I tell you we will have a delicious des sert and a delightful surprise for papa when he hears you have made it all yourself." The pencil and paper were speedily forthcoming and the little girl took down the following instructions: First light the oven. Mix half a cup of sugar with one tablespoon of butter until it is soft and smooth. Take one egg, separate the yolk from the white. Beat the white until very stiff. Set the beaten white aside and beat the yolk. When well beaten (the yolk will not get stiff like the white), pour Outguessing the Purveyors of Real and Sham Laces MY dear lady, when you are sitting on the veranda peacefully engaged in needlework and conversation and a mysterious stranger, who has succeeded in eluding the espionage of the hotel servitors, approaches you stealthily and, kneeling on , the veranda, proceeds to unfasten a bundle, mean- while bestowing upon you either an ingratiating smile or an appealing moan, beware! It isn't a bomb that is about to be thrown at you, your life Is in no danger except it be from the insinuat ing germ, but the interesting visitor is about to take away your faith in human nature, to rob you of the respect of your friends and to deplete your pocketbook in a way that will make you shudder with shame for years afterward whenever you recall a com fortable rocking chair on the veranda and—the fateful visit of the itinerant lace vender. The lace peddler is everywhere now adays. He, or generally it is she, trav els from one summer resort to another and spreads his wares before hotel pa trons at seashore and mountain. The exclusive private cottages also do not escape the visits of this wandering dealer in rare and beautiful webs, go ing at bargain prices, and in between times the busy lace merchant travels to the remote farmhouse where a group of innocent school teachers are spend ing their vacation and leaves a few of the lacy bargains behind as mementos. It used to be that swarthy faced men from eastern climes monopolised the business of lace peddling to the sum mer hotels. An interesting flavor of orientalism attached to the silent, smiling creatures whose wares were to be had bo very far—so enticingly far— below the market prices. But now the lace peddlers are of all nations. Al though the romance of the east is no longer connected with all of them they have all a picturesque tale to tell, which lends the charm of personal in terest to the lace bartering and gives the necessary explanation of why the laces are to be had so very cheap— just for today. The lace peddler comes to the sum mer places something like the venders of women's merchandise of old traveled to the cattle bowere of fair women. Far from the marts of trade the women who are spending their summers in the country are often easy prey to the Itinerant merchants who furnish a certain diversion from the usual occu pations of the summer. Just to prove that the Mechlin, the cluny and the Valenciennes which arc being offered at such great reductions are real some of the peddleri are even BY in one and a half cups of milk and stir until thoroughly mixed with the yolk. Then mix the milk and egg with the butter and add one teaspoon of vanilla and sugar. Sift one cup of flour with one teaspoon of baking powder and one saltspoon of salt three times. Grease carefully a round cake tin. One with the tube in the middle is beet. Be sure the tube is well greased, too. Now beat the sifted flour, a little at a time, into the balance and last of all add the beaten whites. Beat all together quickly and put Into the tin and place In the oven. This will take from 15 to 25 minutes to bake, according to the heat of the oven. It is better not to have the oven too hot. Do not open the oven for 15 minutes or the cake, which is rising, may /all from the sudden draft. Then take a wisp of a clean broom, open the oven very gently and stick the broom wisp into the cake. If the batter sticks to the wisp the cake is not done. Close the oven door gently and leave until the wisp comes out perfectly clean. Be careful to close the oven door gently. Slamming It might make the cake fall. When done turn over on the dish on which the pudding is to be served. It will drop out of itself in a minute and the tin can be gently lifted off. While the cake is baking cream one so thoughtful as to carry with them the little pillows with the lace in process of construction, the pins set up and the pattern, usually a very lit tle of the lace on the pillow is finished, all marked out. When they unpack their laces out comes the pillow also, and the lace merchant sets down the pillow hurriedly and without seeming to have any desire for the onlooker to notice it—and begins to display her laces. The pattern which is on the pillow may not be at all like the pat tern of the lace which the woman has for sale, but, nevertheless, the pres-. ence of the little pillow with the lace in the very act of being manufactured is all convincing. It is true that the women are rarely seen to work on these laces. A shrewd peddler may move a bobbin now and then, perhaps there is one here and there who can even proceed with the lace making a little bit, although as a general thing the pillow is simply a stage property, never brought into actual use at all. If yoti were to fol low the course of the lace peddler through the summer you would find that the piece of lace set up on the pillow never grows any longer. It is exactly the same in August as it is in July. It speaks but ill of the industry of the lace peddler. Surely she must have had a great deal of help to turn out the quantity of lace which she car ries if her speed of production is no greater than that which the lace pil low which she carries would indicate. But in spite of this the little lace pil low is the most efficacious "prop" in the world to convince the lace purchaser that the lace which the woman offers is handmade. What though the laces which she vends are the products of looms in our own west and have been turned out by the thousand yards by tireless machinery instead of being wrought slowly and painfully by hand by the patient maker of real lace? Who is going to doubt the appealing lace peddler with bargains to sell in the face of ocular demonstration of the little loom? Then there is the lace peddler with the baby. A baby and a bargain fs, of course, an irresistible combination for any woman, and the lace peddler with bargains to sell and a baby on her arm —often a baby borrowed for the occa sion, alas! for human nature—is sure of almost as warm a reception as the ven der with a pillow. The baby is put down in some comfortable spot and the lace is spread out before the group of women on the veranda. Can they'doubt a poor mother engaged in a worthy effort to sell real laces for a fraction of their cost? To do so would argue hearts adamantine in quality. No, they glance at the baby, they examine the bargains, they buy. they buy very lavishly. L*t us trust the baby is well fed that night when the itinerant vender makes up her accounts and pays the baby rental to its enterprising parent. "It is most extraordinary," said a lace expert to whom many women come bringing laces which they have bought at bargains to be valued, "what .women accustomed to real laces, and who can VIRGINIA SLOANE cup of powdered sugar with one lump of butter the size of an egg and one teaspoon of hot water. Beat together until very light and creamy, and add one tablespoon of raspberry jam or half a cup of ripe raspberries. When well mixed turn into a little glass dish and have ready to serve with the cake. When papa arrived that night there was an air of mystery and suppressed excitement which made him forget how tired he was, and he had begun to won der how much longer it would be be fore he would be let Into the secret, when, dinner over, the pudding was brought on. It hardly needed mamma to explain that Mary had made the dessert. Her bright eyes and glowing cheeks were evidence of that, and papa, when he tasted the delicate cake and delicious, creamy sauce, could hardly believe that she had matie it all herself. He said it was the most de licious pudding he had ever tasted. "She certainly has inherited your culi nary instinct," he said, turning to mamma. This was only the beginning. After that, one thing at a time, Mary learned to make all kinds of dishes, until one day, about a year after the episode of the raspberry pudding, she went to her mother and asked, the maid being out, if she might not get the whole dinner. LOUISE EDWARDS. well afford to buy them, will often be deceived into purchasing from these lace peddlers. Women come to me with lace that they have bought of these peddlers at what they are assured are bargain prices, and many times the lace is not only machine made but of such cheap quality that good class shops would not carry it even among their Imitation laces. "Much of this lace Is made by firms In the west, and these firms employ women to peddle It around to the sum mer resorts and country places. The women tell sorrowful tales of destitu tion and assure the purchasers that they have made the laces themselves or that their friends have. Quantities of it are-purchased for use on lingerie and for table linen. After the pur chase the women who have bought the lace often are so Jubilant over their bargains that they come to me or to some other lace expert to value it, and then, of course, the truth ap pears. The only wonder is that the women can always be made to believe that they ar# able to get good lace cheaper from these venders than from the regular dealers. "Not long ago a woman friend of mine, who is spending the summer in the country not very far from New York, telephoned me to say that she had picked up a wonderful bargain in Valenciennes lace which she was going to use for her daughter's trousseau. She wanted to come in and show It to me just so that I could tell her whaf a wonderful purchase she had made. She came and proudly unrolled her lace. She had paid $40 for a quantity of narrow Valenciennes which at the market price for real Valenciennes of this widtfi would have been worth about %"& or $80. I looked at it in perfect horror, and could scarcely be lieve that she had made such a mis take, for the lace she had bought was not 10 cents a yard. It was the very cheapest machine lace. "Embroidered table sets trimmed with lace are sold by the peddlers for hand work when they are entirely made by machine and trimmed with machine made lace. The material of which they are made Is often not even linen. How the women who buy them can be deceived I don't know, but that they are is shown every day by the women who afterward *how their pur chases as great bargains, 'only to learn from more discriminating friends that they have been terribly cheated. A relative of mine recently bou*ght from one of these peddlers at a summer resort a centerpiece and doilies of linen which were supposedly decorated with Italian cut work and bordered with real cluny lace. She Had paid $25 for the set, and, of course, if it had been what was represented by the peddler the price would have been Incredibly low, but my unfortunate relative had possessed herself of a set that could have been purchased anywhere for about $2. The embroidery was done by machine, the lace edge was machine made, and the material of which the set was made was not linen, but union cloth. "Sometimes the women set very angry when they find out how they have been deceived in their lace pur chases and threaten to have the ven ders punished, but as their names are unknown and their whereabouts Is also a mystery the purchasers usually tad To Serve Dinner in a Small Apartment TO the woman with a kitchen and a cook, to say nothing of a corps of servants, giving a dinner is simply giving an order. But to the young housekeeper of moderate means, who lives in a small apartment with no kitchen at all, the question of enter taining in her own home is a matter that requires thought to solve. If the culinary art is the mainspring of civili zation the young housekeeper should rejoice if she has a knowledge of that art and can give her friends home cooking and an individualized enter tainment. That it takes forethought, time and trouble is the first thing to realize. But it can be done. In the first place, it is not always easy to find room for dishes enough to serve a dinner of five or six courses for six or eight persons in a small apartment with limited closet space, but a young housekeeper who is most successful in her entertaining finds this difficulty solved by havrng a corner closet made of open shelves reaching from the floor nearly to the picture molding. She always has one mad« in any apartment she occupies. The expense is small, it is pretty, and on it she can place a wonderful number of glasses and dishes. Her cups hang from hooks screwed into the cleats on which rest the shelves, and by put ting in a few tacks in the back of the shelves her larger plates stand up across the back of each shelf. She puts a brass rod across the top shelf and from this hang inexpensive silk cur tains which match her draperies. So much for the dishes. To have a table large enough to seat .eight persons is another problem for the small apartment hostess. The one used by this young housekeeper is in two parts. The basis is a folding table that when opened up seats four. It is made suitable for the larger num ber of guests by the addition of a table top made of thin pine Doards joined in the middle with hinges, so it may be folded up between times and stored away in a closet where it takes little or no room. This table top is secured to the table proper with buttons, as the carpenters call them, and is as firm as any one could desire. The top she uses was made by her husband, at a cost of fB, and has been in use for sev eral years. It is four feet eight inches each way, the corners being rounded off. As for the cooking, one end 6t the bathroom is utilized as a kitchenette. On a solid little table is placed an as bestus mat and an iron tray, and on this a small gas stove with two holes Js placed. To make it perfectly safe the wall back of the stove is covered with a sheet of heavy tin. Over one of the holes is put a tin oven, and in this can be kept, when not in use, sev eral baking pans. The rest of the cooking utensils are kept in a little wooden cupboard made out of boxes given to our housekeeper by her gro cer. The day of the dinner is set, the guests are bidden to the feast and a maid engaged to wait on the table. The day before our young housekeeper writes out her menu and makes her purchases for the dinner. She decides to have grape fruit, soup, roast chick that it is too much trouble to seek revenge at the hands of the police. "The real Valenciennes lace is usu ally to be told from the machine made by the irregularity of the web; the machine made lace has a very smooth, regular web; the irregular quality marks all the real laces as distin guished from the machine made laces to some 'extent, but not so pro nouncedly as in the Valenciennes. The real lace is always softer to the touch than the machine made lace. "Peddlers now sell also a great deal of lace as Irish crochet, some of which is really hand made lace, but of a less valuable sort than the Irish crochet. The Irish crochet Is made of a special kind of thread of the very best quality and very strong, so that the lace made of it will last forever. # "The cheap crochet which is being represented as Irish, although often made by hand, has none of these wear ing qualities, because it is made of the poorest possible thread, what we call basting thread, which will not wear at "Learn to Make Cake," Says April Grandmother HfpHAT big round fruit cake which I has just come by express isn't to be cut today. Our guests would devour every crumb of it. Not that .1 believe there is anything too good to offer to our 500 friends," exo'.ained the April Grandmother, "but that es pecial fruit cake Hhoitld not bo wasted on an afternoon reception gathering. Its duplicate isn't to be purchased for money. It was sent to me by a young woman friend from a western Pennsyl vania town, and if she were obliged to tarn a living for herself she could do so by too selling of the fruit cakes which she now sends about the country as gifts to appreciative relatives and friends. "You could learn to make quite as pood cakes as this one." The April Grandmother directly addressed her youngest descendant. "I've never known a young girl possessed of so decided a taste for Cake making. The only trouble is that your baking pe riods are so irregular .that I never knew -whether our cake' tins are full to bursting or bare as Mother Hub bard's cupboard. And the person who practices at any art intermittently never arrives at a state of absolute per fection. Yes," continued the April Grandmother, "I certainly regard cake making as an art. although it is done with a spoon lnstea'd of with a brush, because I know that only a few spe cially favored persons have 'cake sense.'" t 'They instinctively know when the pro portions of the Ingredients are correct and when the oven is right, whereas the rest of the universe only hope that their cake won't be tough or collapse. There's all the difference in the world between the two conditions, and that's why I'm sure the first one is a heaven bestowed talent to be made the most of." Th% April Grandmother seated her self at a side table at one end of the ens served with potatoes au gratln, peas and currant jelly, this to be fol lowed by a lettuce salad, and the din ner to be finished with ice cream, cake and coffee. As many things as possible should be prepared the day before, which is one secret of success in a smal} apartment dinner. The chickens can be stuffed and prepared for roasting, the salad washed, placed in a salad dish and put in the icebox ready to be served and dressed at the proper time. The pota toes au gratin can also be prepared the day before, all ready for baking. Just here the sceptical housewife with a kitchen of her own may exclaim, "How is It possible to bake both chickens and scalloped potatoes In a tiny square oven?" But it is quite pos sible, for the chicken can be roasted on the bottom slide of the oven and on the top slide a baking dish will slip in easily. The day of the dinner arrives and our young housekeeper proceeds to set her table as soon as her apartment is in order for the day. In the center of the middle room she places her table, with its sizable table top, over it a canton flannel silence cloth, then her very finest linen table cloth. A white lace centerpiece goes in the mid dle of this, and on it is placed a, bowl of roses. Around the roses she puts four silver candlesticks. As she wishes to make the waiting as easy as possible for her one maid she decides to use her large dinner plates as place plates. The grapefruit plates, with doily and glass to hold the fruit, will be placed on these, and at the end of this course the soup plates will take their place. With the soup finished the plates will be ready for the meat course. A napkin with a dinner knife and tablespoon are put at the right and two forks at the left of each cover. The spoon for the grape fruit she puts on its own plate. Glasses for water are at each place, while on each side of the table are placed salt cellars and peppers, also small silver dishes for olives and salted almonds. On a side table she places plates for salad with large serving spoon and fork and a dish also for crackers and cheese to be passed with the salad. The dessert plates are also made ready with a fork and spoon and finger bowl on each, as she has not enough plates to serve her finger bowls separately at the end of her dinner. The after din ner coffee cups with spoons and a small silver bowl containing lump sugar are also made ready and a menu of her dinner in its regular courses is written out plainly and pinned up in her bathroom for her waitress , use, as her bathroom is to serve not only as kitchen but butler's pantry as well. With all these things made ready it will be time to undertake the cooking of the dinner, which a good cook book, a fertile mind and deft fingers should make a success. The young housekeeper should not be discouraged if her apartment is small, but be an adventurous enough home maker to attempt a dinner party and her friends will say that they have never had a better time and she will have added another feather to her cap. all, but will pull right out, exactly as basting thread would if we were to use it to stitch with. Some of this crochet is made in Austria and some in Japan, and the purchaser should realize that this lace, even when hand made, is not worth what the genuine Irish crochet is worth because of the quality of the thread. The sale of such vast quantities of this lace at lower prices than the genuine Irish crochet could be sold for has naturally hurt the sale of the real Irish crochet except with the small minority of dis criminating persons who can not be deceived. "No doubt some of the lace which is peddled around in the summer time is what it is supposed to be," concluded the lace expert, "for there are women who earn an honest living , in this fashion, but they are not able to offer good lace at less than the market price, and the purchaser may be cure that it is wiser to consult an expert before purchasing lace bargains from irresponsible and unknown peddlers." butler's pantry and hastily scribbled a few lines on a brown paper bay. "For the sake of encouraging , you to perfect your talent and to prepare now for the 'rainy period,' which is liable to come to any of us, here is an order for a certain number of cakes to be made, baked and delivered to our cook by you each week for the re mainder of this year. You will kindly notice that I have not specified the sort of cakes to be furnished, but merely that they shall be of varied kinds and not similar for two successive weeks. Because your present cake list is not a long one, you will be obliged to extend it considerably if you wish to earn the pin money mentioned in this order, and to do this you will have to collect a number of new recipe* wherever possible, from the household departments of newspapers and maga zines, from published and private recipe books and by conferring with all of the experienced housekeepers and the eld erly cooks of your acquaintance. "You will also notice," continued the April Grandmother, "that you are to furnish your own materials and pay your share of the range expense as we!! as the wage of the kitchen maid who usually assists you. This is the only means by which you can learn how to charge for your cakes, but I think that you will have to price them at about twice the amount which the materials cost to buy. That will give you a fair wage for your own time an» labor over my charge against you for the use of the range and the maid's services. Every time that we have a party I shall take care that each femi nine guest knows who made the cakes for it. and I shall be greatly surprised if before six months have elapsed housewives who are indifferent cake makers are not offering you absurdly large sums for fruit cakes, angel food loaves and all manner of sugary com fits. Even though we do not need any addition to our income the poor are ever with us. and I don't know a sweeter means of gathering money for them."