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The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, July 20, 1913, Image 27

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laM furnishing you a pretty destgn today, the
very name of which will call to your mind
the peasantry of the Balkan Mountains who are
noted for their remarkable skill in completing
some of the handsomest embroidery of historical
beauty. It is their aim and delight to use a great
many colors, intermingling them in a manner so
clever that one color blends like a shadow into Its
adjoining part.
For this pattern I suggest ror the center pieces,
or floral motif, the different shades of blue, rang
ing it from pale blue to a china or phenol blue;
or begin the wheel center with medium blue and
graduate the tones to a navy blue In the stem
and leaf portions use dark leaf green In outline,
then a lighter green for leaves, with a very pale
tip-green. The butterfly can be worked in Delf blue
with wing spots of blue, two colors, and a mere
touch of green. Miniature triangles on collar bor
der should be worked in green Fill the notches
In satin-stltch of dark green floss, and border
with a scallop of dark blue. I have offered this
color scheme because the colors, as a rule, wssh
All portions are in solid effect, with the excep
tion of wheels, made with Battenberg stitches. The
pattern can be developed In all white, but I feel
sure you will like a color effect to create a de
cided novelty in your finished collor Sincerely
yours. . I*-, „ *
Put some soap In a pint of hot water, stir and remove soap. Saturate
Design with mixture, then remove excess moisture by partially drying De
elgn. Place material on a hard, flat surface and lay the Design, face down,
upon the material. Cover with two folds of newspaper, and with a table
spoon rub, pressing hard, until the Design is entirely transferred
World Color Printtng Co . St. Louis, Mo
TriU luota cJ tiio uul'aock, wmcll is
too common to require descrip
tion, thoroughly boiled in water
is known to an excellent hair
tonic. The flesh of the mandrake bulb,
which has a bitter and pungent taste,
has been recommended for external
application in diphtheria and pneumo
nia. Fennel weed, known by its long,
slender cluster of greenish-red little
buds on a long stem straggling out of
flat, broad, parallel veined leaves, has
soothed many babies in the throes of
colic if not actually saved their lives.
The camper not only has ample
chance to gather herbs in the coun
try for future use, thereby saving her
self many visits to the drug store, but
she may find it a novel diversion to
stew them in the open, bottling and
labeling the diluted juice, or if she
TWO yards of corn-colored.silk will |
make a neat little one-piece ki- j
mono for bouse wear. Trim!
ail edges with black braid or black \
lace insertion. If braid is used, the!
Greek key design will be neat as an
outline. Some kimonos of this de- j
scriptioii are trimmed with black or-{
naments or stenciled with black on
border edges. The yellow and black
tints are harmonious In anything of \
an Oriental nature.
There is the nicest little affair which
will be invaluable to the needlewoman
who is fond of embroidering dainty
designs upon lingerie and house linen
—it is the new stiletta, which is made
with a gauge, so that the size of the
eyelet may be regulated. One of the I
greatest difficulties found in eyelet
work (which in itself is the simplest
kind to embroider) is the art of mak
ing the eyelets of uniform size. This
little instrument obviates the difficul
ty and will be gratefully received by
the enthusiastic needlewoman.
It is quite a clever idea to knit
straps for the baby's coach, for they
may then be kept clean and the straps
may match the cover. Besides this
they take little or no time to make
for they are only about 20 inches long
and two or three inches wide. They
may be knitted or crocheted, so they
really present many possibilities. Fin
ish at each end with a one-inch cur
tain ring, which hooks on to each side
of the coach. The best material for
the purpose is a heavy zephyr, which
is more elastic than the finished kind
and stronger. Sometimes the straps
are done in pink and white and blue
and white stripes, and sometimes they
are done in solid color; but, anyway,
the baby should have at least three
straps, so that they may always be
clean and always appropriate to the
color worn at the time. A bone cro
chet needle of medium size, or a pair
of fairly thick bone knitting needles,
should be used, so that the stitches
will not be too close together.
IN baking fish lay the fish first on a
piece of clean greased cotton
cloth, then lay it In the pan. It
can be lifted out easily when done.
Our Magazine of Fashion
can get hold of a small hand press,
preserving the fluid extract.
Two women campers who have a
small bark bungalow at one of the
lakes in northern Wisconsin once in
vited eight of their friends and ar
ranged a picnic the main feature of
which was the brewing of herbs in a
large tripod hanging from a wooden
spit. While the hostess waved her
wand, witch fashion, over the boiling
concoction, drawling her witch formu
la, "Double, double toll and trouble,
in the caldron boil and bubble," each
guest stepped up, and with a long
spoon and a small funnel filled a
small bottle from the steaming ket
The penalty imposed by the presid
ing hostess for spilling any of the
precious drops or cracking a bottle
was the performance of some odd
stunt prescribed by one of the guests
who had spilled nothing. Every one
took home, not merely as a souvenir
but for practical use, a generous sam
ple of all the Btuff brewed. Each sep
arate quantity of herbs had been care
fully sorted, pruned, washed, stewed,
and tested, and the picnic had a
practical as well as a pleasurable pur
FOR bites apply vaseline and burnt
alum; lemon juice for bee
stings; common bluing for bites
of any Insect, or vaseline, lard, and
burnt alum can be applied.
For vaseline stain, soak in cold wa
ter for half an hour or longer. Then
apply warmer water, and finally wash
in strong white soap and boiling wa
ter. If white goods, put in the sun.
Cream of tartar will remove iron
rust. To take iodine stains from lin
en, make a thick paste of ordinary
starch and cover the stains, and then
apply heat—either that of the sun
or stove. For carbolic acid burn ap
ply vinegar at once, and then make a
poultice of stale bread and vinegar.
This holds good for a burn from lye.
For sore feet, three parts salicylic
acid powder, ten parts starch pulver
ized, and 89 per cent of pulverized
soapstone. Sift into shoes and stock
ings. For a canker in the mouth, two
ounces honey mixed with one-half
dram of powdered borax or boric acid
To mend amber, warm the surface
and dip in linseed oil and bring parts
together until they are sticky, then
let cool. To remove grease from the
finest fabric, one pint of rain water—
if the water is hard use borax—one
ounce ammonia, one-fourth teaspoon
ful saltpeter, one-half ounce of shav
ing soap cut fine; mix all together.
Put a nad of cotton or blotting pa
per under the spot in the garment
when rubbing it.
When white goods are grass stained,
saturate them with paraffin and put
them out in the sun. When you are
riding on the cars, and wish to write
plain, put your paper over a pillow.
MOST of us need a spell of loafing
now and then, but few of us
know how to loaf. Indeed,
I don't think it would at all be a
had idea to hold classes in all
over this hustling country of ours.
It comes so hard to any one who
Isn't born a loafer —and the born
loafer doesn't co -.nt. He exaggerates
what should be a recreation, an oc
casional indulgence, into a habit,
thereby spoiling both life and loaf,
and. incidentally, throwing an excel
lent thing into bad repute.
No one who wouldn't rather work
than eat is in actual need of loafing,
but there are really few of us who
don't prefer working at something,
useful or useless to doing nothing.
And he or she who loves work most
requires to learn loafing.
You can't -work properly If you are
worrying over neglected work or an
ticipating work to comt. You must
begin to loaf In your mind first of
all, letting It work from the Inside
out, until you are loaflinj all over.
Just sitting around and not working
Isn't loafing. I have seen a woman
waiting in the reception room of an
office till her turn came tc go In to
the hallowed precincts beyond, fit
ting there tens? with work; thrash
ing things over, quivering with im
patience, wearing herself out to no
purpose at all. Now, if she had
studied the art of loafling she would
have had a fine, refreshing half-hour
and enjoyed herself thoroughly be
When you loar you must be filled
with a sense of utter peace, a com
plete escape from the least notion
of labor of any sort, a deep content
in the large leisure of the hour. No
faintest desire to "make time pasß"
must be allowed an entrance. "Loaf
and Invite your soul," goes the say
ing, but It is rather your soul that
invites you. It takes you into the
regidns of eternity, where time is
not, and gives you splenfiid !lle
dreams and surrounds you with vast
What good is there in that? Hard
ly one American woman gets enough
of it. We may be idle, many of us,
but we don't know how to loaf. et
loafing of the right sort creates a
calm of the spirit, a> composure of the
body, eminently good for us. Into
our crowded, nervous lives it
breathes sweetly, as might the pip
ing of a shepherd from vanished Ar
cady. A spell of loafiing will take
the knots and snarls out of your
nervous system as nothing else can.
It will soothe your iritability and re
store your equilibrium.
A woman who cultivates the art of
loafing as one of her possessions will
be mistress of the secret of perennial
youth. Even when she is working
her hardest the soothing influence of
her last loafing Indulgence will ex
tend Us balm over her, keeping off
the fidgets, giving her a sense of
.breadth and ease.
You can loaf for five minutes or
five months, according to circum
stances and necessity.
TUNICS are fuller than last year,
fluted, full in back and assume
their greater length there.
Some of the new effective flouneings
are of linen and they show floral pat
terns in blindwork, with an occasional
lace medallion.
The basqued coat and the basqued
gown are out in goodly numbers,
offering ample opportunities for ren
ovating half worn garments.
The silhouette remains Blender, and
while skirts have increased in ampli
tude on the hips, they still cling close
ly just above the ankles.
The gowns of the moment retain
the short square train, but the taste
for this cannot endure long in a day
that is essentially pratical in dress.
The oblong buckle of chiffon or silk
flbwers, similar to those worn on hata
four or five years ago, is now quite in
vogue for evening slippers.
• A stylish material fa an extremely
finely woven cotton crepe, which is
termed cotton crepe de chine. It is
as pretty for evening gowns as those
for afternoon wear.
White dresses, trimmed with fancy
silks printed in the gay colors, will
solve the color problem for many
women who realize that they cannot
array themselves in costumes of many
Shoes with cloth uppers of almost
every shade are found in the shops.
The tops, of course, must harmonize
with, if net match, the gown with
which the Bhoes are worn.
The favorite costume of the season
is a suit of soft heavy silk. The coat
is usually lose and made on one of the
extreme models, while the skirt Is
draped and slashed at the bottom.
In spite of the humanitarian per
sons who are trying to save the plum
age birds from destruction, the costly
aigrettes and paradise feathers con
tinue the most popular and fashion
able millinery trimming.
A black taffeta parasol with gold
ribs has the edge trimmed with two
folds of satin. On the edge of one
of the ribs is arranged a small bunch
of black and white satin rosebuds,
which also appear upon the handle.
A new train is cut with a wide
square end and the end gathered into
rather broad tucks. The tucks were
close together, and instead of being
Ironed down flat they were slightly
pressed the reverse way, so that they
gave tbe fluted appearance that was
very attractive.
ONE of the things that must not be
forgotten when cleaning is the
turning out of drawers and cup
boards. Frequently it is a work of
longer duration than one would ex
pect. After the drawers have been
emptied brush them thoroughly and
line them with clean white paper.
The walls of cupboards should be
brushed, and when the shelves have
been cleaned put back in place every
thing that has not been condemned as
i rubbish.
THE following exercise may be
practiced most any hour of the
day when one has leisure time,
but the time to receive the most bene
fit will be at morning and night when
you are at home; then more time may
be devoted to it and you will also be
surrounded with necessary things to
make the treatment complete.
Before beginning the beauty exer
cise, on your way home secure some
cocoa butter, some olive oil and a
small vial of benzoin, also a jar of
white vaseline.
Of course your hands are washed
before dinner, but after dinner, and
about half an hour or so before re
tiring, wash your hands, wrists and
arms with a mild soap and warm (not
hot) water —hot water is too severe
on the skin—it causes wrinkles to ap
pear. After the dust, grime and pow
der have been thoroughly removed
from the pores, the hands and wrists
are then submerged into a basin filled
with clear warm water; allow them
to remain so for two to four minutes,
after which dry them with a soft
Now apply a liberal amount of co
coa butter to the hands and wrists,
which is rubbed well with the hands
—using a downward stroke, ending at
the tips of the fingers.
The cocoa butter not only feeds the
tissues, but it serves to neutralize the
drying effects of the soap.
After you have prepared the hands
In the above manner, you have got
them in the best possible condition for
an active exercise; in other v/ords,
they have been awakened.
Begin by holding the arms at sides
and bring the hands up in front until
the finger tips meet; then raise the el
bows until the forearms are horizon
tal and the palms of the hands meet.
This should be repeated only eight
or ten times the first few times you
practice, but this number may be in
creased gradually and finally the el
bows brought higher and higher,
Your wrist at first will be quite
stiff, but in a week or so you will
wonder if the treatment and exercises
are continued if In time you will not
be able to lay the back of the hand
on the forearm? But don't try that —
I am not wishing to make a contor
tionist out of you—simply trying to
give your hands health and grace.
From the above position reverse the
hands so that the backs meet; this is
done by raising the elbows. When the
entire length of hands have come in
contact with each other they are held
so and the elbows lowered, then rais
ed and lowered for eight or ten times.
This movement is the reverse of the
first and puts an entirely different set
of muscles on the stretch; in fact,
muscles that have become stiff from
not being called into activity, and the
fact that the muscles are inactive—
not working—the blood does not
course freely, which causes weakness,
deformity, discoloration and in time
disease—such as rheumatism, skin
trouble, enlarged joints, etc.
A LITTLE sugar or molasses add
ed to the stove polish gives a
brighter and more lasting polish,
also prevents bo much dust.
A PINCH of soda added to a berry
pie before the upper crust is put
on will keep it from running
A FEW miaced dates added to
fudge as it comes from the stove
will make a novel and dainty
WHEN frying mush it improves
the crispnees if the mush is
dipped in white of an egg be
fore frying.
Abit or camphor tn a smau cup,
placed over an alcohol lamp
which has its flame turned very
low, will always put mosquitoes to
WHEN next cocking bacon try
putting it in a sieve and pour
ing boiling water over it;
then cover for a few moments with
cold water, drying the bacon on a
cloth before putting into the sizzling
frying pan.
WHEN you undo a parcel fold the
paper and tie the string around
it —there will always be a
string to fit a bundle without looking
for one.
IN cooking peas and beans the wa
ter should be allowed to boil
away to almost nothing. When
the seasoning is put in this makes a
delicious juice.
IF the clothes boiler leaks while In
use the hole may be temporarily
stopped up by putting a handful
of cornmeal into the water. It will
fill the hole.
STALE macaroons, which can be
bought cheap at the baker's,
make the most delicious addi
tion to pudding and custards if pul
verized and sprinkled over the top.
SAVE all bits of soft silk or satin.
If you are not clever with your
needle some friend may be and
she will quickly transform them into
tiny flowers for bows of other acces
sories of tho dress.
TO sweeten rancid butter, melt the
butter, ?kim it, then place a
piece of light brown toast in it,
and In a few minutes the toast will
have absorved the unpleasant taste
and smell.
SOME housewives put a little water
to be heated to prevent the milk
In the kettle in which milk is
scorching. Another method is to
sprinkle in a little granulat2d sugar
and let it get hot before oourlng in the
TO wash varnish, steep some tea
leaves in water for an hour, then
strain them out and use the
liquid for washing the varnished
wood. This decoction gives the wood
work a cleaner, fresher look than
when washed with only soap and wa
WHERE dishes are washed In the
sink stretch a piece of white
rubber tubing, about two
inches lons, over the ends of the fau
cets, letting it extend about two inches
below. This will prevent the breaking
and nicking of china that is caused
by striking them against the faucets.

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