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GOMF W.. A. MMCM TO KEEP ROOMS " vC00L IN SUMMER. 0--00-0'-00,"-0-000-'0--0--0 Dainty Negligees In Attractive Guise For Warm Summer Days n Alt NEE' ( v tz7) . I.;': fill. 4f ' tllM --'I I fi teat Motv - ' vl kiyJ J I t .4 i? "Uftv K - - frill! ' 1; - i?Air flV filar SfVH i i 1 1 - " 1 MAW VMWi lliW" J" ' vyl "i'Vi -v;.- Lirn kimono enters largely Into the comfort and well being of milady during the summer months. And lfs a charming garment, useful and-attractive, when not abused, but that It Is abused by some women who appear In kimonos of uncertain attractions In and out of season Is a well known fact. At a summer seaside boarding house recently a half dozen or so of girls congregated in the room of the most popular member of the "bunch" for a talk over well, you know the sort of topics a lot of pretty up to date girls love to discuss! Each of the girls was clad In a kimono, and perhaps the most fetching of all was that worn by a bright debutante from New Tork city. About the only thing that was at all kimonlsh(?) belonging to this garment was the sleeves, which wero of the regulation flowing variety cut vxziy ouui i i auuvc lilt? CI" bow. The material was -a charming white St. Gall swiss scattered with dots and patterned with daisies. The rather scant skirt had a deep hem at the bottom, edged with embroidery beading threaded with yellow satin ribbon exactly matching the golden heart of the marguerites. The short walsted bodice crossed in surplice fashion and was trimmed with a frill of plaited lace on the "crossed" side, headed with the ribbon run beading. The wide sleeves had also an effect of this kind as a- finish. About the slightly heightened waist was a wide piece of beading run with the ribbon DELICIOUS FROZEN DESSERTS No matter where you live, whether in town or country, the surest way to make the house cool Is to keep the windows shut during the day. - The house has had a good - airing during the night if the windows have been wide open. Then when you close them ail day and open them at sundown the atmosphere will be delightfully cool. ' Life in tropical countries during hot weather , would be Impossible unless this procedure were followed. It is a fine plan, therefore, before the sun be gins to strike warmly on the house for the housekeeper to see that every blind in the place is closed. It makes no difference if the sun does not reach that particular window; the mere fact that the temperature is affected . is enough to require that it shall be ex cluded. In the country a greater current of air may be secured by "bowing" the blinds. This consists in putting them on a short hook that will hold them to gether at the outer edges, so that the latter two just meet.- This means that the blinds are about one-quarter open. A long hook, going from the window sill to the bottom of the blind. Is re quired to prevent the wind from blow ing in quite flat. : In this way the sun is kept out, while a draft is created. Windows and blinds in the country may be opened Just as soon as the sun goes down because: foliage does not hold heat, and when the sun goes none is left. But in town pavements and buildings throw off heat for several hours after sundown, and it is well to delay opening the windows until after dusk. To arrange d room so the windows can be opened at the top Is highly de sirable, and in the third or top story of a country house this method should be considered Imperative. No place holds more heat than the roof, and its speedy egress must be arranged for. If the windows opeft only at the bot torn the top story will not cool off be fore morning unless there is an air chamber above, but with the tops down it will be fresh in a couple of hours. A hand shower to use in the bath tub is an Indispensable article for com fort in hot weather. Unfortunately it is expensive. During nights that are too humid to sleep one or two showers may be taken without Injury, and they refresh the body, sometimes by reduc ing the temperature and so making rest possible. In Byron's time It may have been a waste of time to "seek ice in June." But In these days it appears in large quantities on every well appointed din ner table all through the summer. It clinks refreshingly against the sides of the water glasses, chills the salad and the fruit and often constitutes the last course. Summer, in fact, is the season for frozen desserts, and of all frozen desserts there Is none more de lightful than biscuit glace. Particu larly is it suited to festive occasions. The varieties of biscuit glace are well nigh legion, one form calling for a sherbet, another for a mousse, and so on in fact, one may use any com bination that strikes one's fancy pro viding It is appropriate in color and flavor and the main part of the mix ture is frozen. Sometimes the molds or cases are filled with a single frozen preparation and decorated with maca roon crumbs or candied fruits or with a fine meringue that has been browned with a redhot salamander. - Some times the dessert is garnished with spun sugar. A biscuit glace is always a froze-i mixture in individual forms. The cook books which print recipes for fancy Jellies and other concoctions ijnder this title do not act in accordance with the best French authority. The following recipes are simple enough for the ordinary housewife to follow: Use naif a cupful of sugar to a pint of cream, measured before whipping. Pack the cases In a tin box or flat mold. Seal them hermetically by rub bing butter liberally over and Into the crevices between mold and cover. Bury in Ice and salt, using five pints of salt to a gallon mold. Let the cases remain packed In the freezer for five or six hours. Instead of the whipped cream ithe molds may be filled with plain vanilla ice cream or .' with, lemon ice cream. Occasionally French candled fruits cut into dice are stirred into the ice cream. Cherries and limes are gen erally considered best for this purpose. Sometimes when prepared in this fashion the mixture is served In, glass molds. For still another variation fill up the paper cases with Ice cream, cover the top with raspberry ice and decorate It with French candied fruits cut In fancy shapes. After freezing serve each lea on a white doily spread over a crystal plate. Instead of the raspberry ice cherry ice may be used. Fruit water Ice Is often used with a plain vanilla mousse and makes an attractive des sert.. The mousse may be merely piled into the cases and sherbet spread over the top, so that it will completely hide the mousse. It will be easier to prepare in this way than to use the sherbet as a lining, and it will taste just as good. SUMMER COIFFURE PROBLEM ending in a chou with long ends at one side of the front. Any girl could make such a kimono for herself at small expense and with little expenditure of time. Cotton crape of the new thin silky weave Is an idea for a vacation lounging robe, as the material lends itself beautifully to packing, coming out of the trunk as fresh and unwrirled as when It went in. One of the girls at this conference was gorgeously arrayed in a china silk matinee with a black background lib erally besprinkled with big bluets. The design is rather an unusual one for silk, and the effect Is very striking. Velvet ribbon of the same blue as the flowers trimmed the matinee. Of course it was not a really warm weather kimono, but it was "stun ning," as one of the girls said. FOR THE TENNIS GIRL y v i V3l - ' X - v , - mmmmmammmamk r y:f W f J HI Women have wide fields of oppor tunity open to them this summer, for the modes of the moment uphold the combination of two or more materials, a fact that holds good in the realm of the kimono. In gowns and suits there are combi nations of linen and cretonne, the lat ter introduced as facings for collar and cuffs or as pipings and vests for suits. Again the unusual combination of sheer fabrics with heavy linen comes to us in charming forms straight from Paris. English eyelet embroidery is back again enjoying a popularity equal to that of a few seasons ago, and many of the smartest lounge sacks and mati nees are made of English all over, combined with sheer batiste. Remnants have greater possibilities than ever this season. , With a short length no practical woman need de spair, for anything can be combined with another remnant to form a mod ish dress or negligee. So do not neglect the combination of different materials this summer. It Is the note of the season, and if you wish to be well dressed you can accomplish it by a clever alliance of fabrics and colors. CATHERINE TALBOT. A FAMOUS BLACKBERRY JAM Here Is the famous recipe for mak ing blackberry jam that Is used by the widow of John J. Ingalls, who for so many years represented the state of Kansas in the United States senate: Take two gallons of blackberries, carefully pick them over and thor oughly wash in cold water. Place In a preserving kettle and pour over one quart of water and cook until soft, be ing careful that they do not burn. Stir at intervals with a wooden spoon to break up the fruit. Remove from the fire and press all through a sieve into a large stone or earthen ware jar, avoiding tin. Stir the pulp thoroughly. Take one quart and put into the kettle and when It bolls add one quart of granulated sug ar previously heated in the oven. Bring to a boil and let it cook rapidly for fifteen minutes, shaking the kettle from time to time, so it will not' stick to the bottom. When it begins to jelly it is done. This can be tested by slipping a silver spoon into cold water, then taking up a little of the boiling jam and dropping it slowly in a saucer. If it hardens it is done. One accustomed to preparing it can usually tell by the peculiar sound of the bubbles as they break. Pour Into small jars and when cold seal tightly and place in a dry place. Never try to make more than a quart of the Jam at a time. It will take no more time to prepare a little, and it will be better in every way. "T pre pare the fruit" says Mrs. Ingalls, "one day and set it away in the cellar and make the jam the following morning." A VACATION GAME. When you want to entertain a few friends on the porch some evening try the vacation game. You will have to distribute strips of pasteboard on which are written such riddles as these. The answers here given were omitted on the cards handed to the guests: Where should the restless go for their vacation? Rome. Where should those who wish to re main some time go? Tarrytown. Where might very thin people find It healthy? Dublin. What Massachusetts or Ohio city Is Ideal for a picnic? Springfield. What Is the dustman's best resort? Asheville. Where might railroad men summer? Carlisle. Where should royalty feel most at home? Castleton. What cape ought to attract anglers? Cape Cod. What town Is best for ship and boat builders? Salem (sall'm). A list of any desired length could be easily worked up from a school atlas. Half an hour Is a good time limit, and there might be an inexpensive prize for the cleverest set of answers. AN UP TO DATE NOTION. One of the fancies of up to date housewives Is the marking of kitchen linen in their own script to indicate its various uses, such as "glass," "china," "silver," "dish towels," "servants' lin en," etc. The words are embroidered in white or a color at 25 cents a dozen. ' , C? V' - --eV ' - xV 1 -.' 1 t:; v y " -V. r-w V TO PREVENT FADED HAIR. Do jou want streaked hair of seven teen different shades when next fall comes around? If you do not you must make up your mind to wear a hat during the summer. A bother, you say? Of course. Did you ever know anything connected with keeping fresh that wasnt a bother? But it Is not half as hard as spend ing time and money later getting over the effects of sunburned hair. Too strong a dose of sun acts on the hair by drying the natural oils in the scalp- and then burning, just as a hot flatlron scorches linen. If it is Impossible for you to wear a hat' oil" must' be rubbed' regularly Into the scalp to counteract this drying ef fect. Remember that the most beautiful hair in the world comes from the peasant women of Brittany, who keep their heads covered with their little white caps. iJIXING one's hair In summer Is a much more trying problem than arranging the winter coiffure. Only the woman with curly hair Is In com fort. After so many seasons of waved hair, puffs and curls It Is hard to get accustomed to the demure hairdress lng which is considered so smart. The swirl Is too heating for summer, so most women welcome the return of puffs because of their adaptability. They can be pinned at any angle that is becoming. They do not take up much space, and for this reason they do not heat the head. For women who cannot go without a pompadour of some sort there is to be recommended the thin roll of curly hair across the front and sides and the drawing of their own hair over It with the ends made into a knot at the crown of the head. This knot is covered or surrounded with a few puffs. The coif fure to be seen in the picture Is a charmingly simple and modish way of doing the hair. LEARNING TO REST Any one with the will to do so can learn to work, but very few learn how to rest. Sleeping is not always resting; neither is doing nothing a good form of rest. There are certain forms of Indolence that are more fatiguing than hard work. Real rest presupposes sufficient sleep and enough of the loaf ing spirit to get off tension, but it means more than that. One of the surest rests is in relaxing. Change of occupation is resting. So also is a change of scene and view point. If you live in the city, especially if y6u are a brain worker, get Into the RAINY DAY HINTS. s When there Is danger of a wet car pet from the overflow of dripping um brellas on rainy days put a large sponge in the bottom of the umbrella stand to absorb moisture. If you have a stand of china which is easily broken put in the bottom of it a rubber mat or rubber tubing colled into a flat the desired size. Never put an umbrella carelessly into a stand or you may thrust It through the silk of one already there. Many a good umbrella is ruined in this way. If you have borrowed an umbrella never put it in a public stand, es pecially If it is not marked. You may be mortified to have it carried off and not be able to return it through no fault of your own. 9 . AJl NEW YORK TF a girl nowadays does not play ten nis well, she Is decidedly out of It. She may not be a champion player like Miss Sutton, still she will have to amble pretty nimbly with the racket to be called a "really truly summer girl." And for the girl who does play tennis this shirt waist has been especially de signed. You can see how perfectly adapted It is for the business in hand.' The neck Is comfortably low and fin ished with a smart little plaited frill, and the sleeves give full play to the arm and are also trimmed with a turn ed back frill of the muslin. Some girls have these ruffles hemmed with white and colored striped lawn to match the stripes in their flannel ten nis skirts. But most players prefer the duck or linen skirt, a it tubs beau tifully and comes out of the wash look ing as well as when it went to the laundry. ; , - - . - . FOR A YOUNG HOUSEKEEPER. An acceptable engagement present for the girl who expects to go to house keeping in a small apartment is a set of cookbooks in a small rack the size to stand In the pantry. Stand, books and all are not more than six inches square, yet the books contain a num ber of valuable recipes. The five little books are attractively bound in red or green leather, with gilt edges, and the titles lettered on the back. There Is a book on cocktails, a book on salads, a book on odd dishes, on sandwiches and on the chafing dish. WEAR TWO HATS AT ONCE M -, ' " f', -: iff x ' W ' WLf J Jv country once a week. You can exer cise or loaf, but you will come home stimulated. The country girl needs the excitement of the city. Many a woman has found going to the theater the greatest rest she knows. This Is particularly so for the brain workers or for women given to worrying about their, household duties. Some girls make it a practice to keep a little knitting and a goad book with in reach. When they feel themselves getting nervously tired they knit a few rows or read a few pages. The girl who cultivates the "cat nap" habit has discovered one of the secrets of keeping rested. An afternoon of sleep makes for sluggishness; totally different is five minutes' oblivion Snatched when sitting , upright in a rocking chair or stretched flat on your back. More restful of all. is the power to let things go. One rarely hears of a woman getting nervous prostration who has the blessed faculty of sitting down in the midst of confusion to finish a good book or of snatching a day of pure pleasure though duties press. Such a girl will possibly be called Irresponsible, but she has learned how not to live at tension, which is the crying evil of our race. Summer is the legitimate resting time. See that you make that rest count. TO CLARIFY BUTTER. Melt two or three ounces of butter in a saucepan, heat it until it bubbles thickly, carefully remove all the scum and let it stand for a few minutes. Pour off the clear oily or clarified part, keeping back all the sediment. THE latest Paris fashion requires that woman's hair be hidden. For this purpose the "hidden coiffure" has been contrived. It consists of a combination hat really two hats in one. Fir6t is worn a tight fitting mob cap edged with lace in frill form all round, completely framing the face and-hiding the hair. Over this is worn a large picture hat of coloring and trimming to match the cap. which appears merely as a pic turesque frill. .When the large hat is taken off rearrangement of the hair is unnecessary, for the cap completely hides the coiffure. One of these hidden coiffures seen recently was black. The cap was of black satin, being edged with white lace and bebe rosebuds. The large hat was of tagel straw with white lace covering the brim and a small rosebud trimming to match. Another method of covering the hair in vogue in Paris is to wear a bandeau of ribbon or satin so wide that it has the appearance of a Dutch bonnet over the front of the hair. And, apropos of hats, the small model is with us again. Just when the mil liner put It on fashion's list or the smart woman decided to give up tn huge hat is a question. While it 'M quite true that the latter is still worn, it is equally true that the small one is the smart thing. Very fetching is the small hat illustrated of white eyelet embroidery with a soft black satin bow. And the chip chapeau with the white satin bow is charming. And how, .dcvTou like, the Maud Muller ef fect in leghorn? A TRAINING THAT PAYS. A wise foresight on the part of par ents will lead them early to see that the daughter has such business ex perience and training as will prepare her to meet the crises of life courage ously. A twenty-year-old young wo man, being asked If she dreaded the future possibility of single self sup port, gave this frank and admirable reply: - - "No! For I have already learned enough about business to look out for myself in case I do not get married." .SAVING A PETTICOAT. A good muslin petticoat rarely wear3 out at the top as quickly as does its ruffle. When the edge of the embroid--ery frays cut it off in an even edge, hem on the narrowest hemmer of a machine and add a ruffle of torchon or linen lace. An expert on the machine can hem and sew lace at the same time. The lace should not be ruffled, but held in enough to prevent puckering.