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ife if: rl/, :$§ft 'W&XvStt N ',. !™i"vf --i 0 *v 1 :•:•.'••^•••- .v.v *.•.•••• .••• •:•.• .'•:•• :••..•••*. v. v.' ••••..• "iSjR? „., ^,i.,I8iIliiiil8l®? 'i\ gi 'IHMl i^l:s m. N Ir 'i!i#)» \^V A A"' S .O pais W?ip«i#! T4* "V SX yv xiV^-. Opera- maifcxra-ae. "w-i-o-p cKiracJaoila- a.T^~L H&TDri Be] A. Brilliant Spectacle of Beautiful Women and Flashing Jewels The View from the Balcony The Ultra-Fashionables Who Sit in the Boxes- Their Attitude and Dress. With the opening of Grand Opera be gins the social whirl of another winter season In New York. On the heels of It follow the endless round of dinners, lmlls, receptions, teas and bridge parties which crowd the days and nights of fashionable society. Up to this time the fashionables have spent the autumn days at country residences or In temporary city quarters, motoring back and forth from dressmaker to milliner, up and down the avenue and across the side streets where are situated the small exclusive shops supplying the numberless accessories necessary to the feminine wardrobe. Opera Rehearsal*. And while luxurious city houses have been undergoing all sorts of repairs and wardrobe preparations have been, going on, the sweet voiced songsters of two great opera companies have been spending long hours rehearsing for the greatest event of the winter season. Openlug Night. Everyone- naturally looks forward to opening night with no little anxiety— lovers of music, critics, fashion Idolaters nnd the great number of reporters and fashion writers who go to grand opera to Draw from it all that is meat for a good newspaper story. In the Boxes. In the boxes snbscribed for from year to year by those whose fortunes are public talk, sit some of the most beautiful women of the world, the beauty of face and figure enhanced by the gorgeous cos tumes nnd the brilliant Jewels they wear. The splendid spectacle of this array of beauty Is best viewed from the balcony, where those who go to hear nnd see usually (It. Box occupants, faultlessly attired In the best that the world of fashion has to offer, step from their carriages and go directly to their seats, there to assume an attitude which the careful study of head poise and body grace makes so attrac tive. There little moving about and less talking while the singers are on the stage, talking not being fashionable In these days among the ultra fashionables. Between the acts these box occupants are on parade, visiting back and forth, ex changing light talk and pretty compli ments, and Incidentally affording much satisfaction to the lookers-on. Graml Opera a Faaiilon Show. Like the Horse Show, the Opera Is really a clothes show: the latter even more authentic that the former. While everyone weal's new and charming things at the Horse Show, the most exclusive clothes are reserved for the Opera'. This season will, undoubtedly, be the greatest operatic season, from a fashion viewpoint, that' New York has ever known, for never have we had such fascinating fash Ions, and such exquisite materials with which to execute them. The old rule of wane and light colors §vs 'Sv. .« v.v^y.ftg r-^,oc""- :^-:-:*:-:'l-:^:::"\'//^ -y:y:v:- Ultra^ opare~ 1 :vv,A ^:v..v:^ rsvi' I S T*ji «4 .)• ^V -v I -V i-' .v rttT. .Al vu «i# ^\\t ^ft.-v ,5 x' VAV»' ^v "tsv'l' S^:i iisliiyiiii ttk. Jewel* tor Maid and Matron. Jewels of every kind and value bedeck the fashionable matron, but the debutante Is restricted to a simple neck chain, a string of pearls or a handsome brooch. The opera gown is the ball gown and the formal dinner gown, low of neck, short sleeved and long trained. Dinner at home or at Sherry's or Delmonlco's precedes or follows the opera, so that In either case the opera costume, serves two purposes. One gown which will create no little excitement this season Is that to be worn by one of a family of women styled "the seven most beautiful women In America." It Is empire In mode, but strikingly at tractive because of its simplicity of de sign and beautiful trimmings, in color, too. It Is highly artistic, the material, soft, silky lansdowne, being a very deli cate shade of gray and the hand embroid eries gray and silver with touches of vio let, these wrought by a Japanese artist who has recently become famous In "Gay Paree" as an associate of one of the greatest costume makers of the times. Bodice and skirt which bear all the ear marks of the renowned Paquln are embel lished heavily with these embroideries. -s +#A\ Br \&JI(s£ for evening wear* will be adhered to as .usual. Plain and fancy materials, rich satins and sllkB, soft chiffons and valu able laces, with a wide range of beautiful brocades, will all be there. Trimmings are many and various and their use at all times artistic. Costumes of plain silks, sntins, lansdowne nnd such weaves are Embellished with rich laces and hand em broideries, while the printed silks and other fancy materials use plain trimmings. Pallletted Effects. Paltletted bandings and medallions are very effective on any material, and they are being used to a great extent this sea son on costumes for both maids and ma trons. One gown which will be worn by a New York debutante very popular In the upper set for her beauty, wit, and great fortune, has the entire front of the bodice, the short sleeves and the skirt pnnel, of silver sequins on a net founda tion. This, with a foot trimming of vel vet appliques above a deep sntln band. Is the sole trimming of the beautiful gray net gown with a foundation of gray satin. No jewels other than a single strand of penrls will be worn with this toilette, a feature which distinguishes it from that of the matron. i-* y^mmrnam S HEM THE the central motif of which are fllet net medallions set In the front and back skirt panels and the front of the bodice. The New Fnra. Fnrs, of course, are always part of the opera toilette. Handsome neck pieces and muffs, separate wraps and coats of various lengths and shapes—cape or klinona sleeves, with or without collars and trimmed with beautiful laces—cloth and silk outer garments with touches of fur, all these will represent the vogue of furs In this winter's fashions. Excepting the Russinn sable, which is always high style by reason of Its exclusive price, white furs are the most fashionable. White and light colored ostrich and mar about will also be worn, together with novelties of lace, chiffon and malinette. The Fashionable Coiffure. The coiffure merits equally as much at tention as the costume nowadays. The high dressing so generally becoming Is still the fashion, despite the effort of coiffeurs to bring In the low arrange ment. Young girls dress their hair low on the neck, but only a few beautiful women to whom the flat part and low classic knot are particularly suited dress their hnlr in this fashion. Magnificent jewelled crowns and tiaras, anyone of them worth a king's ransom, are worn by the matrons of the glittering horseshoe. Those less endowed with this world's goods display coiffure ornaments of spangled and Jewelled gauze and malinette, while the debutantes wear simple ribbon filets or wreaths of roses finished with rosettes of malinette. The Debutante's Gown. Since simplicity la the keynote of the reason's fashions and maid and matrcn alike are following this latest trend of fashion, there Is little difference In the designs of costumes worn by these young er members of society. Practically the only difference in their opera toilettes Is the absence of Jewelry In that of the de butantes. She may wear a string of pearls, a simple neck chain or a pretty pin, but none of the brilliantly attractive Jewels with which the matron is privi leged by rules of fashion to adorn herself. These fashionable pallletted nets which make such brilliant, scintillating trimming for Blmple t\\ ?m&G8K Mi 1 iW» i:':S'?: 'W lii f? K-' 'i feS -M nv 4*» 311 costumes, make up in a meas ure for the absence of Jewels In the de butante's toilette.- This very simple "'THE OTTUMWA COURIER^ OPERATIC OPENS "'ftS. &ti,t Af 'fcr Xcvs 4 .. iif.v .! •*fS 1 A .... |p^vip|: illlllfi £irj COB- tiima. Imnnrtart far sinjrla flnnucAiiiM mt ... grand opera, Is of gray net over satin of the same shade, trimmed with velvet ap pliques and sequins in Paquln blue. There Is a deep facing of gray satin at the foot of the skirt above which the appli que and sequins form a deep border. The sleeves, bodice plastron and skirt panel of the pallletted net are In one piece. Above the sequin decolletage Is a gulmpe of finest white net top lace, three frills upstanding on a net foundation. A band of dark blue velvet with Jewelled slides is worn around the neck, and the long gloves are white suede. Ultra-iaahionable Opera Attire. Decollete costume of rich silk or satin, brocade, chiffon or lace, faultlessly ar ranged and ornamented coiffure, a pro fusion of beautiful Jewels, and we have a picture of the fashionable box patron of grand opera. This beautiful creation which comes from a Paris salon for one night at grand opera is of white chiffon with printed velvet borders in pompadour design nnd colorings, medallions of lace and pallletted net dividing the two bor ders of different widths. The medallions also trim the square necked bodice. A sash of the velvet border starts at the, waistline In front beneath an oval buckle of rhlnestones, is draped over the shoulder to give added width to this part of the figure and apparently diminish the size of the waist, and brought down to .the top of the high white satin girdle and secured there with another Jewelled buckle. This sash is lined with chiffon and the ends finished with medallions. The sleeves are very short and simple. The coiffure and Its ornaments are fashionable and artistic. For "Opera Matinee. Opera matinee and evening opera are two different things, so fur as the dress ing of society is concerned. Neverthe less one sees some very stunning novel ties at these daytime performances which are very much worth while from a fash Ion viewpoint. For Instances, the pic tured coat and muff of lace and chinchilla, brought over from Paris especially for the opera season oy a young society matron whose fancy for horses and taste in clothes Is well known. The body 9f tbe coat Is of white silk applique over white satin and trimming this Is a pointed stole collar of chinchilla with pendant cord or naments In white. A wide fur band fin ishes the bottom of the coat and the Jap anese sleeves. The muff Is of the ap plique banded and draped with the chin oh Ula. rr* «. ^j|P If^ ^f'i Si-4 Ssfc&i! Looking over the beautiful creations lu the negligees this season, one wonders at the Ingenuity of designers In working out so many charming variations of tbe Japanese idea. The Japanese klmona, while the national formal dress of these little people of the Far East, is to Amer icans purely a negligee garment so it Is quite natural that its best adaptations should be found In garments of this char acter. Its success, however, is not lim ited to this field, for we have long since acknowledged It the dominate feature of every type of present day costuming, with one exception, the tailor-made. A very attractive combination of modes Is witnessed In those beautiful empire house gowns with Japanese sleeves. Sometimes the sleeve is a full, fluffy puff of lace or some soft fabric such as net or chiffon, set Inside the wide man darin armhole with its characteristic deep satin band, and again It Is truly Japanese, cut In one with the body of the garment and drooping gracefully In Oriental fashion over the shoulder and arm. One piece house gowns share favor with two piece models this season. The latter for some unaccountable reason seem dressier than the former, suffi ciently so to serve as evening costumes en famllle. These are made with long full skirts, gathered or pleated Into the waistband, and finished at the bottom with a billowy flounce or an applied hem of silk or satin. If the latter, the coat like matinee is finished all around with a narrower binding of the silk and the sleeve trimmed to the same depth as the skirt. The amtiii'u waistline Is at 7^1r£" l^- WuiS 3 Vspx^J*'-' v::-'-S .!^^# a— r^ A* ci^^s **£*, \y *'s*r€*-'V i^\ H*Vs^ %2 5 v: A :'vSVI x/ I i.. v# ma ill '£$M The, .•* s- *7 S,4s O psr6- costume -for f&VL-ng to&Lyofl, Dainty Conceits for the Boudoir. 9M ••-r-:..-.^,^ -,,. V •&7fr debutajni^ c^ova. ri ©y-pa-qc/irj. fr **.'*£ A.WV' IIIII \t L« *4 "n ,v HF-&71 tractively attained with lace bandings or galloons set In several inches above the natural waistline and the material' cut away beneath. Sometimes a deep pointed or scalloped edge lace Is used, and then the points are set toward the shoulders, the straight edge of the lace marking the waistline rather definitely. None of these empire garments fit snug ly. They simply suggest the lines of the figure without defining it. In those negligees intended for the confines of the boudoir only there are numerous pretty Ideas for which one may pay a goodly price In the ready, made article, or copy at the cost of a little time and patience. Very dainty lounging gowns are made of Inexpensive albatross or wool crepe In one sbade and lined with thin China silk in another, the pretty little bandlnps of ribbon or silk matching the lining In color. White albatross with one's favorite color In the lining and trimmings would be very dainty and sweet. Both materials clean readily, so that aside from Its attractiveness a gown of this kind would prove a prac tical investment. The silk being V-V.^^:."''V JBO very soft and entirely without bulk Is put In full and loose, that is, set In the arms eye and neck seams only, and finished at tbe bottom with a deep hem. The lin ing could also be made separate and tacked In place after each cleaning of the albatross, which soils sooner than the lining. In the short negligees there is a very clever little model which Is really an Improvement on an idea which came out about a year ago. The'original model was BlftiDly a sauare yard' of material Wj U* S !",-^'^ .r:Vv^!V-P »^—•mmmmm—•——. .|3 W| »." til A yard of albatross, crepe or some sue Inexpensive material with six yards ribbon of any width from one to thr_ Inches Is all that Is necessary for tl making of this pretty xonfectton. good shopper can find both material an«$ trimming at such prices as to bring thfao cost within the dollar mark. Japanese klmonas of shantung and China silk embellished with real Japa nese embroideries are novel and attrac* tlve to the comfort-loving American woman. Japan is exporting quantities of these garments to thlB country sine* the vogue of all things Oriental, and their prices are not exorbitant, consid ering the fact that they are ltnported. A Balcony Toilette. The evening costume of the woman wha' sits in the balcony at the opera may ol 'may not be decollete. AB a matter oi fact, It Is very often tbe latter, but In, all cases It Is dressy and worn with at many jewels as she can afford. White and light, delicate colors prevail In the toning of such costumes, rich laces and exquisite hand embroideries running riot over satiny surfaces of bodice and skirt. One material which will be seen very much at the opera this season Is pompa dour silk. Of such Is the pictured cos tume, a white taffetas silk, soft and lus trous, scattered with pink pompadoul roses and foliage In soft gray shades. Th« bodice and skirt are built In one, shirred the depth of a girdle at the valstllne, An oversklrt effect Is wrought with whlt« satin embroidered In white and sllvec threads, this trimming corresponding with that on the bodice in the form of tarn over collar and revers which extend al most to the waistline and edge a vest oi white duchess lace. The sleeves are novel In shaping and are made of silk, ltfcv ap plique aud printed chiffon of the same de sign as the silk. They are very short and met by the long suede gloves several Inches above the elbow. A broad brimmed chapeau with trimmings of gold lace, ostrich plumes, and malinette Is a pretty accessory to this costnme. A* She Steps from *r Carrlaate. at1 .. fHs stepr £rdzjffl Ducat cravEioa with a square or circle, sufficiently la.« to admit the head, cut In the centr When adjusted the points of the aqua come over the arms and In the cent back and front. The putting on and of this little novelty naturally dise ranges the coiffure to some exter enough so to have started the work some Ingenious mind on the road to 1 provement, the result of which Is mo satisfactory. The square with Its ne opening Is'cut up from one of the poln and 'the ribbon facing aronnd the squar continues up these edges to the nec finished with a ribbon bound point collar fastened with a bow of rlbb In tpe front. Over the arms the poln are turned up to a depth of four or llvi Inches and secured with a ribbon bow this giving the effect of a high cuff the simulated sleeve made by tacking the square together under the arm tbre Inches from the ribbon edge. Entering tbe lobby of the opera houst* Just as she bas stepped from her carriage the woman of fashion presents a strife lngly charming picture, which Is not tt be equalled for ltB beauty on any othei occasion. Her costume Is of soft, rich silk or satin, clinging chiffon or lace, carefully designed to bring out the best figure lines, and over this she wears a coat or cape of fur or cloth ornate with rich trimmings. An example of the sim plicity of design which characterizes even ing wraps this season shows to advantag« In this coat of oyster white broadcloth' hanging in straight, graceful folds from shoulder to top of skirt hem. More than half the surface of this coat. Including the loose Japanese sleeves, is covered with soutache braiding and exquisite dead white Japanese embroideries executed on a foundation of filet net over white satin. Heavy silk cord tassels are set on the fronts at tbe bnstllne. and the garment I* lined throughout with gold and white bro cade satin. A huge black bat of pleated malinette and satin trimmed with black ostrich and gold tissue ribbon compll ments the touch of black in the velvet throat band. «. h* "'t vt, 4 *1 r'i •v ""u flr" 3k