Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume], May 30, 1916, Image 4

About Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916

Image provided by: State Historical Society of Iowa

                
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Embroidered Under
wear Always Dainty
N'
[0 other undergarment is quite so
"nty and so distinctive as the
that is hand-made and hand
embroidered. Fine needlework makes
the accepted finish for women of the
most refined tastes.^ Showy trimmings
and applied trimmings are too easy to
obtain to be exclusive. Needlework
in the most elaborate form is perhaps
difficult for the woman of moderate
f-A-
1
means but the simple designs often
are the most effective and the most de
sirable. Any woman can embroider
such an under gown as the one shown
here with very little demand upon
time and without any exceptional
knowledge. With the coming of warm
weather there is always a need for
gowns finished with low necks. There
are two suggestions shown in the
illustration and both are desirable.
A variety of materials are used for
underwear in these days, silk as well
as linen and cotton, but the best taste
demands fine soft fabric that will with
stand the repeated washings that are
essential to dainty cleanliness. Hand
kerchief lawn is advocated by the
best dealers and is worn by the
leaders of fashion. Fine white cotton
batiste and- lawn are good materials,
and there are certain advantages to
be found in crgpe de chine, and in the
tub silks. They launder easily and
are in a sense time savers and very
busy women and women of limited
households, find such considerations
of importance, but nothing with
stands the laundry as perfectly as
linen and cotton and the linen and
cotton. fabrics are sufficiently dainty
and sufficiently beautiful to satisfy
the moat exacting tastes.
iv^P^M.U
1
Ribbons and Bordered Materials
Fads of the Season
to
RUSSIANmaterials,and
new and very beautiful corduroy
that is woven in one-half inch ribs,
alternating white with color and ia
fifty-four inches in width,
Sports skirts that are made of gen
uine khaki, that are at once smart
and durable.
Genuine farthingales or skirt ex
tenders of fine white materials stiffened
with reeds.
Very dainty blouses of fine white,
voile machine hemstitched with color,
blue, rose and pink being favorites.
Extremely ornamental hair combs,
in shape suggesting the open fan, that
are brilliantly studded with rhine
stones, emeralds, sapphires and rubies,
to make a very brilliant effect.
Hose supporters for the tiny child
that are attached with safety pins
and can be worn even before the age
of drawers.
Guimpes of fine sheer organdie with
big and quaint collars known as
"Velasquez," suggestive of the por
traits painted by the famous Spanish
artist.
A
wrist bag of silk that is trimmed
with ruffles, so shaped as to give a
quaint r6uggestion of the old time
skirt extended by the hoops worn
beneath. It is extremely attractive
and well suited to the costumes of
the present season.
New and interesting collars, to be
worn with any bodice, that are finished
with wide flaring points at the sides
and with four-in-hand ties passed
through big buttonholes before they
are knotted.
Combs for drying the hair, that are
exceedingly simple and claimed to be
effective. The tops are hollow, fitted
with rods and extension handle.
These rods are removed and heated.
When closed in the case they convey
the heat to the teeth and so dry the
hair.
of at a re
handsome with evenincr dresses.
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Russian Blouses Very Fashionable
blouses of net, of
Georgette cr£pe of similar
dainty some that are
in genuine style, buttoned to the
shoulder and with high collars, others
modified by front openings and V
ehaped necks with rolling collars.
Collars of color on white and girdles of
beads are used in combination.
Little boy's suits made with trousers
of white galatea and belted blouses of
the material in narrow blazer stripes.
A
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E never have had a season of
more lovely bordered fabrics than
this present one. Organdie is
one of the fancies of the season and the
bordered organdies are exceedingly dainty
and fascinating in effect. The bordered
voiles are beautiful and many of them
show color combined with white while now
and again metal threads are introduced
for cotton is no longer a washable material,
it is cleansed as would be silk, conse
quently, we treat it in any way and in
every way that makes a good effect. The
gown that is shown in the illustration is
a
bordered cot
ton voile
over a plain
a
plain skirt,
sleeves and
bodice are
banded with
ribbon. It
is a very
a in
re at ent
and one that
is much in
vogue. The
present may
well be call
ed a ribbon
season so
many are the
ribbons, so
beautiful are
they while
their uses
seem very
nearly num
berless.Some
of the newest
and prettiest
of the flowers
designed for
corsage orna
ments are
made of rib-
"-1*%, -^H,w^ w,
bon velvet as,
v***j8Um well as satin
and silk and
there are
some really
superb roses,
the petals of
which are cut
from Ameri
can beauty
ribbon which
gives a depth
and quality
of color that
no other ma
terial pos
sesses.
Coats for tiny little girl's of dark
blue taffeta with fichu collars and
rolled over cuffs of white net that are
quaint and charming.
Collarettes of ribbon with ostrich
that are both 9mart and practical.
Attractive blankets for the summer
home that are of cotton, woven in
honeycomb style to form large checks
of white and color. They are of good
weight for the summer bed covering.
Party dresses for very little girls
of pink taffeta over guimpes of white
net.
Collar and cuff sets of suede leather,
in greeh and in brown, that are known
by the name of "Peter Pan."
Parasols in the flat Japanese style,
with exposed ribs,' but made in two
thicknesses of silk, the inner or lining
being embroidered with small storks
in flight.
Blouses of plaid voile with vestee
and flaring collars of white organdie,
that are dainty and attractive.
Veils of chantilly and other laces,
that form complete circles and drape,
not alone the face, but (he entire head.
Russian smocks made of Japanese
washable crape in all prevailing colors.
The fullness is held by smocking
arranged at the shoulders. Pretty
ones are made of colored crfipe with
collar and cuffs of white and the smock
ing worked with white.
Fascinating little coats, or tiny
shoulder wraps of summer ermine for
wear at mountain and seaside resorts.
The skin is taken from the animal
during the summer season and shows
a soft dainty wo0d colftr with a white
stripe down the. back of each. With
that wonderful provision of nature for
concealment the ermine is white when
the ground is covered with snow and
wood color when the snow has dis
appeared.
A variety of sports and outing hats
that are made of soft straw with
stenciled flower designs. A notable
one is old blue, in mushroom shape,
with tulips, the flowers are arranged
around tne crown, the stems running
down over the brim.
Sports co^ts of wool jersey in all
prevailing colors finished with bands
of Marabout. These light fluffy
feathers will to a large extent take
the place of the fur of last season.
Umbrella covers of pliable black
leather that are both handsome and
durable, are claimed in fact to be in
rlefstriir.tihl*.
Tdifferentvariety
HIS season we have perhaps an
unusual in fashions. The
designers are working
from different periods. The followers
of one will adhere to one characteristic
of dress and the followers of another
to another characteristic,^ but in spite
of that fact there are certain general
tendencies. Skirts seem to grow
broader and broader and bodices to
grow plainer. Without question, the
1830 period is being much looked to
and it may be well to sound just a
little note of warning. In those earlier
years of the last century, woman's
youth was sadly curtailed.at tfiirty she
no longer pretended to be young, she
felt herself mature, she had done with
the frivolity of life, therefore, her cos
tumes made no attempt at youthful
effect. Today we know that youth
ends only when sympathy with youth
has gone and the aim of dress is rather
to prolong the period than to curtail
it, not to be foolishly frivolously
gowned when one is passed one's girl
hood, but on the other hand, not to
accentuate the passage of time. It will
be well to bear these facts in mind
when you consider certain costumes
exploited for our use for there are
many of them that are safe only for
the woman so young that nothing
would make her look old. The bodice
that is cut out just a little below the
collar line, for example, is as trying
as any that could be worn. It is be
coming only to the very young face
and the very ybung throat and really
to the one that is ideal as well as young
and there are various other lines that
belong to that period which we would
do well to study from the same point
of view.
We women are living lives of greater
breadth and of greater usefulness than
did our forbears of that period. We
owe it to the conditions of life to
maintain the effect of vigor and of
strength, not the foolish affectation
of youth and of girlhood but to em
phasize the realization of the truth
that vigorous maturity is far removed
from age, that it has its work to do, it
has an important place in life.
'ASHIONS
for
the younger
in
show certain ex
tremely interesting
features this season
and the favorite
Middy blouse has
been developed in
new and interesting
ways. One of its
latest fomt$ is-shown
in the illustration
and the flare over
the hips not alone is
smart, it is pretty
an in
Since the Middy
blouse makes an all
important feature of
the summer outfit
the innovation is of
especial interest. A
tendency of the rea
son is for the blouse
made of striped
jersey silk or of wash
able silk of any pre
ferred sort, and the
silk- blouse has a
great many advan
tages. It is cool and
comfortable to wear
and at the same time
it is light and dainty
in appearance and
since it can be
laundered easily and
readily, it is prac
tical as well. Silk
middies are worn
over skirts of linen
or of cotton or of
wool serge as may
be, but linen in some
of the newer weaves
as Cossack which is
claimed not to rum
ple, the crepe finish
that is exceedingly
handsome, cotton gabardine and the new pikella are favorite ma
terials. If the skirt is striped, the middy must of course be plain
and £he plam colored tub silks are very pretty with collars and
cuffs of striped materials to match the skirts and treatment of
that sort always give the costume effect. This is to be a season of
sports costumes. Often they will be worn out of place, which
means an unfortunate tendency to cheapen them, but at the summer
resorts and places of the sort, they are always charming whether
they are worn while actually indulging in the game or as a spectator
or during the morning hours when a game can be played at any
moment. For the thinner and lighter materials in stripes, the
plaited skirts are liked and the skirt so plaited as to bring the
darker color on top of each plait and worn with a middy blouse
or sports toat of material to match this darker stripe is exceedingly
smart and at the same time exceedingly graceful.
Little girl's fashions are pretty too, and the tendency toward
broad collar and cape effects is notable in their costumes as it is in
those of their elders and deen collars are always becoming.
Smart Sport Hats Show Stenciled Designs
Wear Becoming Styles
becoming lines are not in the least
difficult to obtain. There are the
most beautiful models from which to
choose and there are costumes that in
every way add to the grace as well as
to the dignity of life. A very beautiful
gown exploited by one of our leading
designers makes a good example. It
is simplicity itself, it is dignified in eut
and in color and it seems to have every
condition to -ommend it. The^ ma
terial is wood brown chiffon, with a
printed design of flowers scattered
over its surface and these flowers show
dainty paste1 shades of pink and of
green. The skirt consists of a_ front
panel, rithout trimming that is laid
in a box plait with three single olalts
at each side. At the sides and Dack
it is straight and gathered, amply full
finished with a wide hem at the lower
edtre. and trimmed with three narrow
ruffles each gathered to form its own
heading and each with picot edges.
These ruffles are arranged one at
about knee depth and two above
giving the broad hip effect that ia
smart. The bodice is in the simple
kimono style that is always becom
ing and always graceful and it
is one of the best ever offered
for thin materials. The fronts lap
slightly as they meet the deep
girdle and so forms a moderately
deep V. The sleeves are 'in three
quarter length, they are edged with
little ruffles like those upon the skirt
and there is a ruffle of graduated
width that finishes, the front and neck
edges. It is narrow at the girdle and
it is wide enough to give something
the effect of a oollar at the back of the
neck. Soft creamy lace is arranged
within the V-shaped opening ana a
girdle of brown ribbon finishes the
waist line. It would be hard to find
a costume of better lines or of more
graceful effect and it could of course,
be reproduced in lighter and brighter
color for the younger contingent.
The dressy afternoon gown and the
gown that can be worn to the res
taurant dinner and for all such oc
casions takes an important place An
exquisite one of lighter coloring and
Advance Style Predictions
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which also exemplifies the tray in
which the best dressmakers are using
the kimono model is made of soft white
silk lace flouncing showing a hand run
desigyi, combined with dark blue net.
There is u. foundation skirt of soft
white satin and over it the full skirt
of plain blue net. There is a second
straight full skirt of the white lace
flouncing which is edged with a full
quilling of the blue net. To give the,
broad hip effect, there is a little peplum
of the net approximately twelve to
fourteen inches in depth at the widest,
which is cut to form ten deep points,
which is full and gathered at tne belt
line. The pointed edge is finished
with picot. The perfectly simple
kimono bodice is of the flouncing the
finish of which forms the sleeve edges
over the net and ruches are used as
trimming. There is a flaring collar
which rests up against the back of the
head to make a becoming frame. It
is of the lace as a matter of course and
wired to keep it in place. There is a
girdle of soft blue ribbon. The gown
bears the signature of a noted French
designer but it does not require that
signature to suggest .the artists' hand.
Hats and Veils
Hats are always subjects of especial
interest. The leading milliners are
displaying a great many with full
velvet crowns and the velvet crown
with straw brim is promised great
favor. Midnight blue velvet with
blue straw makes a handsome com
bination and one that is much liked
and there area great many evidences
toward the tendency to such effects.
A beautiful model that comes from
the distinguished house of Maria Guy,
shows a mushroom brim of burnt
Leghorn with a narrow bandeau and
a low Crown of midnight blue set a
little lower than the brim and covering
the bandeau. Filling the space is a
wreath of flat roses with an occasional
dull red grape and now and then
yellow buttercup. The color effect
is fascinating and the hat serves as a
good example as to what is being ex
ploited by the best desig:
Separate Waists and Skirts
Comfortable for Girls*
nrL
ners. The
flowers, is
combination of grapes and
wm?
mwr^w®w fW*- .n &**«»
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'a
for Trimming^*
new one sponsored by Paris, and by,
the best designers of whom Paris can
boast.
For sports wear and for wear at the
re so he re a re a re at an ha so
straw of various kinds with broad:,
flat brims and rather high round!
crowns, that show flower and bird
designs stenciled thereon in vivid
colors, others again with charming
daisies and other simple flowers em-'J
broiderpd onto the straw with heavy
threads. They are effective with
sports coats, and if they are rightly
worn they will add to the charm of the
summer, but there is always a danger,
of such, novelties being put to misuse.
The tendency to wear sports clothe*
when one does not indulge in sports*
has been commented upon in previous $*.
letters. Let us hope we wil nor see
he is in or an
town hats worn upon the citv str-eft.
Veils are exceedingly* Interesting
There is a very marked tendency tof
ward the wearing of lace veils. Hand
some ones are in genuine circular form
to be draped over the hats.that are
lightly trimmed. They cannot 0'
course be worn on the hats of high
trimming but on the low hats thev
drape the face and bead both in 1
novel, and sometimes interesting way
but "these lace veils are among thi
features of the revived stvles to which
the opening paragraph refers and they
must be looked upon with care and
chosen with discretion if they are to
make a good effect. Draped veils irs
noted too and some verv attractivs
hats are shown with handsome lac:
veils draped over the crowns and fall
ing down to form drapery at the back
the folds being held by ornamental
pins, while the veil serves only, a*
trimming and is not designed to cover
the face. For the small hats, veil#
that fit more closely must be chosen.
The tendency is all toward very fins
mesh with occasional designs worked
in heavy threads. We see leaves an I
flower forms and various figures of th»
sort. They are pretty in the han
they are attractive now and then whan
they are well worn but in a great
many instances, the effect is weird
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