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The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, May 01, 1887, Image 11

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fashions ofthe season.
individuality and Independence—The
Enfranchisement of Modern Fashions
Beauty and Adaptability the Mod
em Standard of Style-Masculine
Idoas of Fashion—Refinement Versus
Vulgarity-New Promenade Cos
tumes in Heliotrope and Gray -The
Dress “Complet” and the Parisian
Workwoman Canvas Costumes-
French Bodices and Tennis Suits-An
Easter Wedding Trousseau.
tSew York, April 89.—Women can never
bo" really great till less of their nervous
energy is expended upon dress. Yet who
would devise any absolute basis and fixed
laws in regard to women’s dress, even if
thev could? A woman—student and scholar
in one—who rarely makes her appearance
m society, attended a grand reception the
other evening, and when asked why she in
dulged in so much dissipation, replied: “I
came to look at the good clothes. A feast
for the eyes, is it not: Yet I see nothing
very gay or unlike what I have seen be
fore.” Still, it was—as this quiet lady re
marked—“a feast for the eyes.” The lovely
art shades of color, which were formerly
railed aesthetic and were confined to a few
persons, have now become general, and
their softness and delicacy blend in masses
and create a lovely tone and glow of color.
There is also a great deal that is charming
and individualized about present fashion.
Women are dttirentiated. They look less like
milliners’ blocks; less as if put in and taken
out of one mold. The dress of one will show
a refinement of simplicity; another, the
subtlest manipulation and blending of art.
One is as “fashionable” as the other : for
everything is “fashionable” that is a suc
cess_that is, that looks well and makes its
wearer look well.
There is a delightful freshness and a look
of novelty to spring fashions which are
hardly .justified by their materials. The
feeliirt and appearance are produced by the
greater variety of color and the picturesque
suggestiveness of some of the new combina
tions A finer art is constantly being culti
vated in the designing of gowns and gar
ments. “Drapery” is now', with some, a.
specialty, and books and pictures are studied
both by dressmakers and their customers in
order to discover anew idea, anew fold, a
new effect, and if one is found it is seized
upon with avidity.
Drapery, therefore, has not gone out of
fashion because plain skirts have come in;
both are equally fashionable, equally desira
ble, if both are equally fitted to be represen
tatives of their class. It is highly impor
tant to get rid of the notion that because
one thing is “worn” another must not be.
For example, that because the polonaise has
been revived, the basque and draperied
skirt have disappeared; or that the use of
one color excludes another. There is no
rule in dress that, is not open to a bril
liant exception, and there never was a time
when general culture, intelligence and
special requirements entered so largely into
the general economy <4| dress or found so
much individual expression as now. Yet,
notwithstanding this, it is certainly true
that women must release themselves very
much more genera 11 v from the burden and
authority of their clothes, if they are to bo
ready to do the work of the world with the
force that is demanded of men and with no
more waste of nervous energy.
This fact is beginning to be accepted by
professional women everywhere, anil they
are gradually acquiring a characteristic tone
in the general features of their attire. The
thoroughbred women can alw'ay's be recog
nized anywhere, principally by the presence
of refinement and the absence of the con
spicuous in her clothes. But unfortunately
she is not often seen on the street. The spec
imen with which we are most familiar in the
crow ds that throng the sidewalks is the wig
gling woman, whose big bustle carries her
skirt like a sail, who lives in boarding houses
and flaunts her latest acquisition in the shape
of feathers or flowers, bangles or wraps, upon
the promenade. With the majority of men,
this w'oman stands as the representative of
“style.” They walk behind lier and com
ment upon her as they take their afternoon
stroll up Broadway; and she, unconscious
that, her bustle has worked considerably to
one side and radiant in the consciousness
of a tall ladder of spring green bows in the
front of her straw hat and a new' gown in
the proper combination of striped with plain
material, carries her head higher even than
usual and feels that “life is worth living” as
long as spring brings new fashions.
is a short jacket of light, stone-colored cloth,
untrimmed but faced interiorly with silk
over a black or brown soft vicuna or cash
mere dress, and black or brown straw hat,
■with bunch of spring flowers or grasses and
ribbon bows set upright. Fresh lowers are
almost always worn at the breast or carried in
the hand; heliotrope, violets, yellow daffodils,
lilies of the valley or fragrant mignonette.
They are displayed in tempting masses upon
every block at comparatively small cost,
and lew can w ilistand the temptation of
adding a “posey ’ to the dainty neatness of
anew spring jacket.
Gimps and {inssementeries have now disap
peared from street jackets of the best class;
their distinction is due altoget her to the fin
ish of the smooth broad cloth, the refine
ment of tint and the perfection of cut and
nt. The tufted and coarse mixtures in ma
terials are only used by those who possess
™em and must wear them The fashiona
ble “tailor” cloths are in every im]>ortnnt
respect identical with those worn by men.
braiding is perhaps more than
ever, but it is executed by hand and upon
entire costumes. A braided jacket, with
draped cloth or silk skirt, such as was com
monly worn a few years ago, is now not
elegant. The bodice is not bra ided in a bor
der line, but to form a deep, pointed vest —
bark and front—and the design is rei>eated
111 a panel upon one side; ami a port of it —
a decorative touch—upon the hip drapery
of the other.
Some of the handsomest of these costumes
mv made in blaek; others in shades of helio
trope and gray; but perhaps tile most de
cidedly novel in tone and appearance are
the sage greens, a kind of gray green shade,
which suits admirably the rich hand orna
mentation in oxidized silver that is put
upon it. It is hard to tell what, turn
will take, or when it will bo found enough
mul not too much. There are tempting
looking pattern dresses, in boxes, which
teem to exemplify the latter part of the
phrase. At flirt sight everyone wants them,
mid there is open wonder at tbo low price
•>' id. They are cotton satine of varying
degrees of prettiness or ugliness, occompa
jpru by fan and parasol matching the dress.
he cost of the whole is less than 87. The dress
®* course is unmade, but the fan and parasol
are mounted, finished and ready for carry
ing along a dusty roud on a summer after
noon. Why do ladies look at all for so little
money, and nineteen times in twenty turn
nixuit and leave it as a bait for others less
wary * The reason is that it is “too much.”
the fan and parasol are bound to the dress,
they would lie lit for no other costume. If
the pattern or color of the dress itself is not
altogether desirable, the disagreable part of
it is multiplied by the presence of the extra
article and instead of becoming an induce
m®nt they are an obstacle.
Abroad such designs, complet, sell like
hot cakes" as summer approaches, for they
furnish exactly what hundreds of work
women and shopwomen want when they go
to the “hois” on Sunday or spend a day
ln the country. The Parisian
workwoman lias no money to
spend on knick-knacks, and is not tempted
by stacks of “Japanese” fans to waste her
"cnlimen. But when she goes into the
'■ountry, if only for a day’s outing, she
to ho equal to the occasion. The
rlress “ rom/ilet ” suit* her exactly. Hho will
*tay up all uigbtto make and put, the fluish
•rt touches unou it and a ribbon uuou u
pesky straw bonnet. , Twenty francs pro
vides her entire outfit; the bonnet, therib-
Imn, the di es.;, the parasol, the fan carried
with an “air” and common little handker
chief, hut with border matching the tone, if
not exact color of the dress.
I must say, for myself, that the sight of a
workwoman on Sunday in such a costume,
her gay dress, faultless in fit, her head car
ried high, her parasol higher, her fan flut
tering—even though in a gale of wind—
gives more pleasure than all the brilliant
toilets of the grand opera. I am thankful
then, with nil my heart, to the manufacturer
of the pattern dresses “comp/ef,” for lie
provides those who cannot afford anything
better, with something that gives them
satisfaction, that gratifies their experienced.
sense—not to say cultivated taste, anil
whatever gi\ es us fullness of enjoyment in
this world, within the small domain of fixed
and narrow resources, is something to be
glad and thankful for.
Our workwomen are not so restricted.
They have usually several cotton dresses for
summer wear, several woolen for winter
wear, and they aspire—without an excep
tion —to silk on Sunday'. Besides, they
would not carry a figured satine parasol
when stri])e.s were in fashion, even though
it matched the dress. They want stripes—
if stripes it is—or nothing.
There are many new and pretty materials
in wool and silk or all silk and all wool; but
they possess one uniform characteristic,they
are soft, pliable, gentle in tone anil texture,
light in weight anil fall in easy folds. It
seems quite impossible to revive the stiff and
wiry alpafccas, the more stately poplin or
even the useful dc beige. We hear occasion
ally of these materials being employed fash
ionably, but they are not seen either in the
shops or on the street. The materials in de
mand are the line cloths, the camel’s hairs,
the thin wools, the cambrics, the ginghams,
the soft silks and the lovely new mixtures
of silk and wool known as Bengaline, pean
de sole- anil the like.
In some of these colors are united so as to
produce the most artistic effects—as the
“Gobelins” for example—which blend gray,
green and gold, or gray, blue and gold ex
quisitely. The new designs and combina
tions show fantastic differences only to be
recognized by experienced eyes. ' When
plaids are used, for instance, they are em
ployed for the skirt anil a smaller plaid ur a
plain material for the bodice and drapery.
When a stripe is used, however, this is gen
erally reversed. A solid material is reserved
for the skirt, which may have a stripe let in
as a panel, if the design admits of it, but the
upper |iort of the dress, basque or polonaise,
is of the striped fabric with vest or recces
of the plain,- or whatever mounting the de
sign calls for. The newest Scotch ginghams
show large plaided patterns for the skirt,
anil small plaids, checks or solid colors for
the bodice Bad drapery.
The Gobelin silks in their soft, dark opal
and amethystine shades are {jerhaps the
prettiest of the summer silks; and suit so
well the touch of pink or green in lining or
iu the trimming of the bonnet. Pink, a very
delicate shade, is revived, and allowed in
conjunction with gray, in small quantities
and almost out of sight, even in the street.
Pink and lilac are also combined; and pink
with tender green and brown, a union of
colors fashionable forty years ago, when
the fashionable shades were very much what
they are now.
Some of the new foulards are charming.
The ground is covered with a small, ali
over, irregular, puzzle pattern in olive or
green, with minute dots in old gold or blue
or white, set like little points or nails in the
pattern. This design conceals the light
ground and imparts a general tone of color
and character which foulards often lack
and renders them more available than when
printed in small, detached figures upon the
light grounds. Light grounds are not now
tolerated in materials that are used for any
outdoor purpose. The shops are inundated
with pretty chales—a fine and soft printed
wool—which is, however, more like the old
fashioned wool delaine, than the ehale of
our grandmothers. All the same, it is a fine,
soft, delicate material, all wool, but printed
in detached flowerets or leaves on a cream
ground, and therefore unwearable in the
street except in the country. But away
from the conventional necessities of city
streets, in the quiet of villages and country
homes, it furnishes a fine, gentle and inex
pensive material, very cheerful looking,
only 85c. per yard and net-ding no extras in
the way of silk lining, which brings cost up
to the annihilating point with many women.
A clever and successful way of utilizing
the cheap ecru and white cottons in lace
designs has been discovered, and may be
taken advantage of by those who cannot
avail themselves of the new methods of
applying drawn work to plain linen. The
idea is simply to run narrow colored ribbons
through the open part of the stripe, length
wise upon the bodice and so as to form
panels or complete strij>eil front to the skirt.
A sash may also be finished in this way for
the back. The lighter shades of ecru are
the prettiest, run with very narrow ribbons
in two shades of ecru and still finer lines of
green or blue anil blaek or red. The rib
on is 18c to 25c per piece of ten yards; and
the cottons are 10c to 13c, or possibly 15c
per yard. They can be worn for after
noons, a whole season, without washing.
In the windows of many dry goods shops
upon Broadway and eLsewhere, are moun
tains of all wool canvas cloth in lovely, light
shades of yellow stone or gray. They are
marked down to 25c. per yard; yet, when
inado by a fashionable dressmaker, the cost
of a can vas dress will come up to *75 at the
very least. The reason is, that a complete
dress is made of .silk, underneath this one of
canvas wool and that it is finished—so far
as the bodice is concerned —with even more
care than an ordinary silk bodice. All the
fitting is done in the silk lining, all the
seams are taken in this and not in the out
side, which is simply gathered in to the
form and tacked to the sides of the silk
front, which is finished as a vest; plain,
plaited or with a piece of Oriental em
broidery, if the dress is trimmed in this
These canvas materials are handsome and
durable; but of themselves they lack char
acter. They cnn.be made over fine cotton
satine of the shale and trimmed with con
trast color in velvet, effectively, and much
less expensively.
of soft silk, shrimp pink, pale blue and ecru
arc among this season's importations They
are handsome, and have a little lace or fine,
open needlework laid fiat upon the silk for
trimming. The cost is #25 ouch; but tney
could bo easily reproduced by any clever
seamstress for five. They are gathered into
a narrow fullness, front und back, arul have
a skirt about the depth of an old-fashioned
Jersey liasquo. The sleeves arc full at the
top and gathered into a deep cuff, which is
covered with the lace. They look well with
Lite of black, thin skirts for summer morn
ing and general house wear.
For tennis, for boating or for outdoor wear
in the mountains, consists of stri|Ksd cotton
or wool, hemmed and kilted close and in
fine pleats, which are taped across with care
on the inside. Attached to this skill is a
belt, cut high, hollowed under the bust and
arms, but well made and well whalebonod,
so as to take the place of a corset. It is
marie of undressed linen, the coarse kii;d,
which never loses its stiffness, and is fasten
ed with substantia] hooks und eyes over a
flap of the linen, which comes next the
underwear. The bodice is a blouse,
not so loose or baggy as the
Uarabaldi, but cut so ;ts to give perfect free
dom to the nrms while still maintaining its
neatne ■; of outline. It is open at the throat
and turned back sailor fashion, showing the
habit shill and collar of striped or dotted
linen and the silk tie. The sash is of soft
wool, silk or cre|>e de Chine in the contrast
ing color, gathered at the ends and knotted
at the sides; and the Algerine cap of knitted
silk, the pointed top turned over and liang
ing down, is of the same color
Undressed linen, or linen in the natural
yellow color, with the stiffness of the fibre
remaining and none of the strength lost in
the dressing process, makes an excellent
foundation Tilling for silk or such fabrics ns
are not tnuunaßiuLand of which service is
mi aired. 1: JW* iMMUffuess of mohair is
cooler and cheaper; not more than !50. to
30c. {x*r yard, and as wide or wider, measur
ing nearly a yard, while mohair is often not
more than three-quarters in width.
For traveling -ind every day wear in
wooded and mountainous districts, the ques
tion of underskirts becomes quite serious hi
summer. White cotton are out of the ques
tion, for they are so easily soiled and so un
tidy looking when soiled, that a substitute
becomes indispensable. Besides an under
skirt—which if an edge of it is seen, conveys
more nearly the tone and character of the
costume—is now considered ’ t iter taste,
because better suited to out off ■ u-e and
wear, than the white cotton formt rly em
ployed, and which all have not yet success
fully replaced.
An exi client material for such skirts is
mohair, pure but not essentially fine, in any
preferred shade of gray, ecru or brown.
Cotton satine makes lovely summer skirts,
in black, gray or brown, where stiffness is
not essential. Both are easily relieved of
dust and both are durable and not expen
sent over for an Easter wedding, displayed
some features of decided novelty which are
worth noting. One was the finish to a pale,
apricot colored, satin dress, the skirt of
which was entirely plain and just long
enough to touch die ground at tin- back.
The bodice was cut a pretty square at the
neck, the front of it covertsl with an em
broidery of seed jieurls, A small, square
collar, set upright nt the back, was eni
broidereil to match, as were the deep cuffs
on the lower arm of the full sleeves. A
beading of lace, with narrow, apricot rib
bon edged the neck; but otherwise there
was uo other finish or trimming, except the
silk and lace plaitings on the interior edge
of tho skirt.
A charming morning dress was of strips
of silk, which looked like ribbon with pieot
edge and lace. It was made over soft silk
in the pale, pink tiqt of the stripe, and
trimmed with clustering knots of ribbon.
The front was of pink silk covered with
lace. A cream lace dress was made over a
ribbon-strqxkl silk in very delicate shades.
The jacket bodice was of the silk, with lace
vest, but not itself covered with lace.
Tlu'sinall mantles were almost entirely of
beads, mid the bonnets—certainly less ex
aggerated--of ri-rpe and lace, the feathery
foliage and bright flowers shrouded in tulle,
as they were upon the French bonnets last
season. Jenny June.
The Strong Hold tho Fire Department
Has Upon the People of New York.
New York. April fid. —The utility of lire
escapes has been well tested during the
past week, for there have been acet al big
tenement house fires, and if it had not been
for the iron ladders on the outside of the
buildings an appalling loss of life would
unquestionably have resulted. In nearly
every case the fires in the big tenement
houses have eaten away the stairways first.
A fire in a tenement at night is an awful
thing, for the men. women and children are
paclcod away seventy or eighty feet above
the ground at the rate of fifty or sixty on a
floor, and they are absolutely at the mercy of
the flames unless the pfloper tire escapes are
at hand. There is one thing that every
citizen in New York believes in with his
heart and soul —and that is the fire depart
ment. In the tenement fires of last week the
tenants gathered in groups on the fire
escapes high up in the air and waited with
white faces for the arrival of the fin- depart
ment. Few, if any of them, attempted to
climb down the narrow ladders. They
simply dung together and watched the
streets below.
V T hen the life-saving corps of the fire de
partment got to them they obeyed the fire
men like children and followed each other
down the ladders under the direction of the
popular heroes without a thought of revolt
or independent action.
The tenement house people are not always
docile, however. In the presence of the
flames they are terrified, but when they go
abroad they develop into terrors themselves.
When they begin tne excursion season they
are a constant menace to the thousands of
New Yorkers who are anxious to live in the
suburbs, where they can come to town every
day. The crowds of excursionists whoop
things up at stated intervals during the
summer season. -The O’Mulligan Coteries,”
“Gentlemen’s Sons from ’Wav Back,”
“Real Bloods,” “Square Back Rangers,”
“O'Gilligan’s Own Friends,” and other such
exclusive social organizations leave
the city every day in fine
weather and settle like a flock
of locusts on the prettiest country within
easy reach. When the New York tough is
off on a holiday the universe itself stands in
awe. Such a thing as a casual murder does
not disturb any one’s serenity during the
picnic season, and the invasion of private
grounds, including insults to an unprotected
family and general carnage among the flow
ers and shrubbery, pass as the regulation
thing. Some of the places along the Hud,
son have armed constables with shotguns,
howitzers, etc., to keep the excursionists off
but the danger which lurks at these {mints
seems to add an additional charm to them,
and the roughs and toughs of lioth sexes
makes the beautiful environs of New York
a source of terror instead of happiness to
the reputable citizens of the town. Efforts
are ruakiug to abate the evil to a certain ex
tent by providing regular grounds for the
picnics. But the genuine New York tough
likes his bit of nature in simple form. He
doesn’t care for swings, merry-go-rounds,
flowers, shooting galleries and other time
honored and familiar appurtenances of the
professional picnic grounds, but likes that
which is nature’s own. Hence he descends
with malice aforethought on the spot where
he is least expected, and havoc and misery
results. The river is afloat with |)lice boats,
and the shores are lined with armed men in
preparation for the usual spring outing of
the New York tough. Blakely Hall.
Fifteen Young Scholars Tap a Carload
of Whisky With Serious Results.
At noon to-day, says a Lowell. Mass.,
special to the New York Herald , Benjamin
Clancy, a truant schoolboy, discovered a
carload of whisky which had been side
tracked near the Boston and Lowell depot,
and an idea struck him. For the first time
in weeks Clancy was punctual at .shoo) this
afternoon, but, instead of puzzling over
common fractions, his mental powers were
devoted to giving the tip to about fifteen of
his companions. As soon as school was out
the boys, in pursuance of Clancy’s plan,
rusht-d home and each secured a tin pail on
representation to his parents that lie had
lieen invited to a sap party in the woods.
In less than half an hour tho gang had
gathered at the car, and, securing entrance
by some means, they tipped up one of tbo
barrels, knocked out tho bung with a stone
and soon had their i>ails tilled with the fiery
corn juice.
Then the bacchanalian revelers adjourned
to a secluded place and began their orgies.
Toasts were proposed and drank with the
greatest gusto, speeches made and songs
sung until every one of the fifteen was
beastly drunk. About 6 o’clock to-night
they came trooping into the city, shouting,
singing and staggering. Several were so
far gone as to he unable to walk without
the assistance of their mates. Tho police
soon got after them and took Clancy, who
is |:i years old, Patrick O’Brien, aged 13,
and Patsy Corrigan, aged 9, to the station.
Cluuey was allowed to go home with his
parents. O’Brien was unable to sit up, and
was put to bisl at the station. In the midst
of his hiccoughs he said: “Clancy told
us to drink and we did.” Corrigan was
soon found to be in a critical condition and
his life was saved only by tho use of emet
ics and careful attention from several phy
In Nervous Debility.
Dr. W. J. Burt, Austip, Tex., says: “I
ust>l it in a case of nervous debility, and
very vriiat iuuHWOmii’i*. followed ”
From Harper's Magazine for May.
Before the days of clock in hall.
Or watch in pocket, or on wall,
The ancients told tho time of day
By measurements 'if sun and shade,
Just as you do, you forward jiule,
Who call ho everything hut gay.
They set up in a public place
A dial, with a painted face.
Whereon a (inure, like your nose.
Or like your threatening linger, rose;
Ami, wneu the sun went up and down,
Pointed the hours, as you do now,
With sullen humors on your hrow,
For every hour a different frown!
When the sun sot, or hid his light
In cloudy days, and in the night,
They told the time another way,
Bv water, which from vessels dropped,
Till tliev were emptied, when it stopped;
And this they called the clepsydra.
You use the same old measure yet,
For evermore your eyes an- wet.
You leaky creature, old and sour,
Whose life is a perpetual shower!
Strong should he lie. and iu his prime,
To whom, as wife, you measure time.
How he can teil. with you ill sight,
Whether it In- the day or night,
Has puzzled me, I own, for years.
Your (M-ovish temper* change so soon;
Y'our frown, as now. proclaims i! noon,
And now tis midnight—by your tears!
R. H. Stoddard.
Tho Detectives Claim to Know- All of
New York, April JO.--It is one of the
boasts of the New York detectives that they
are personally acquainted with all the pro
fessional criminals in and near town. The
results of this acquaintance are often pecu
liar. You are talking with Detective Prior
a few feet from the door of the Fifth Ave
nue Hotel and he sees a young dandy halt a
few feet away. “Better keep right' on,” he
says to the dandy; “hurry up, now.” “till,
good morning, says the dandy. “Fin
only going to set my watch.” That is Kid
Miller, chief of the bunco men, and the de
tective will not allow him to stop hi front
of the hotel. You are pushing your way
into Macy’s shopping store and a little lady
like body is just ahead of you. Suddenly
someone stops up to her and roughly orders
her to “Get out at once.” “Certainly, sir,”
she says very meekly, “I was only going to
match a piece of silk.” She lies. She is a
shoplifter and the man who ordered her out
is a detective.
P rimps you are nt the Arion ball with
its 5,000 dancers and lookers on. You walk
in the lobby near the entrance for a breath
of air and meet Capt. Williams, in uniform,
alert and handsome as an eagle. He darts
from your side and stands in front of a
stout, elderly, well-dressed gentleman so as
to oppose his progress. “What do you
mean by coming here?” he says. The man
answers boldly: “My wife is here and I
have come to take her home. ” ‘That’ll do
now, ’says the Captain; “there’s the door;
get!” And, as Artemus Ward us.nl to say,
“he gets.” Of course the man is a pick
“I would like to be in Wall street fifteen
minutes to-morrow, Inspector,” says the
burglar. “I want to see about a personal
“1 will have one of my corps meet you
at Broad and Wall at noon, sharp,” says the
The burglar thanked the official, for it is
a favor to such a man even to be allowed to
go to the money centre with a detective nt
his shoulder all the time he is there. To go
without this pa-mission and escort means a
certainty of being arrested and locked up.
The only kmarvn crooks that get into Wall
street under Byrnes are men in business
there whose offenses he cannot punish; the
only others are the employes who default
now and then.
A neatly dressed, rather substantial look
ing man of middle age sends in his card to
Inspector Byrnes at Police headquarters.
The name on the car Tis that of a burglar
better known by an alias, say “Red Leary,”
for instance. “Well, what do you want?”
Mr. Byrnes asks gruffly. He has an especial
tone for men of that class, and it is a tone
that forbids familiarity and suggests mas
tery, a very different tone from the quiet
and easy one he lias for Ills friends.
This is not the only part of town that
shady characters are excluded from. It has
always been a favorite method with Capt.
Williams to say to rascals of various sorts,
“If you ever put your toot in my precinct
I’ll send you up.” This may uot be accord
ing to law, but it’s according to fact, and
they give that precinct a wide berth. Pick
pockets like the Allen brothers, who are
well known, have a hard time of it in New
York. No matter how much they may
want to see a play or a ball game or attend
a meeting there is apt to be someone to
stop them at tho entrance with a “right
about face. now. You can’t get in here.” I
have seen a pickpocket hustled along like a
bit of down in the wind from one block to
another, while apparently an innocent
spectator of a street parade.
And yet, on the other hand, they elude
oliservation very often. The hostiles are
not always on bad te-ms, either. You will
sometimes see a burglar and a detective noil
pleasantly as they jiass each other, anil even
stop for n mWinent’s chat. Perhaps the de
tective may have once sent the thief up for
a term of years, but the thief is even the
more proud of the acquaintance on that ac
count, and likes to ask the officer if it was
not “a good job” he went to jail for. A re
ply in the affirmative is like meat and strong
clnnk to a criminal. Julien Rali-h.
Matthew Arnold On the Epoch.
From the Nineteenth Century.
The immense, tho epoch-making change of
our day, is that a stage ir. our intellectual
development is now declaring itself when
mythology, whether moral or immoral, as a
basis for religion is no longer receivable, is
no longer an aid to religion, but an obsta
cle. Our own nation is not specially lucid,
it is strongly religious; we have witnessed hi
the Salvation Army the spectacle of one of
the crudest anil most turbid developments of
religion with the ,element of mythology in
full sway, and yet it Is certain that, even
union get ourselves, over all which is most
vigorous and progressive hi our population
mythology in religion has lost or is fast
losing its |>ower, and that it has no future.
The gross mob ha- ever Ixs.-n apt to show
brutality and hostility to wan 1 religion, and
demonstrations of this spirit we have often
enough still. But mingled with the mere
ignoble and vicious enmity against any dis
cipline to raise, restrain and transform,
there is also in the common people now a
sense of impatience and anger at what they
think futile trifling with them on the part
of those who offer to them, in their sore
need, the old mythological religion—u thing
felt to be impossible of reception and going
if not quite gone, Incapable of cither solving
the present or founding the future.
This change is creating a situation much
more favorable to the mystics. Whole
libraries of theology have lost their interest
when it is perceived that, they make my
thology the basis of religion, and that to
take seriously this mythology is Impossible.
But for those groiqis and individuals, little
regarded in their iluy, whom their h-art
prompted to rest religion on natural truth
rather than on mythology, the hour of hear
ing and of well-inclined attention lias at lust
come. For a long while it was so heavily
against, them that they merely preached the
following of Christ, instead of the article of
justification, the article of election; now at
last it was in their favor.
Let me be candid. I love the mystics,
but what I find Ijest in them is their golden
single sentences, not the whole conduct of
their argument and result of their work.
Advice to Mothers.
Mrs. Winslow’s Soothing Syrup should
always tie used when children are cutting
teeth. It relieves tis- little suiter at finis-; it
produces natural, quiet sleep by relieving
the child from iwin and the little cherub
awakes as “bright as a button.”
It is very plensant to taste. It Hootlv>s the
child, softens the gums, allays all pain, re
lieves wind, regulate* t.lic bowels, and is the
best known remedy for dlarrhuvi, whether
arising from teething or other causes. 45
coals a bottle.
Browns /row
The question has probably been aaked thousand*
,■/ timet? “How can Brown’s Iron Bitters cure 1 'ry-
Shinjrr” Well, it doesn’t. But it doe*cure any diMwa
f*.r wnieh a reputable physician would prescribe IW
Rl sicians recognize Iron aa tho beat restoratiTß
went known to the profession, and inauiry ot any
loading oheroical tlrru will substantiate the assertion
i Uat there aru more preparations of iron than of Rny
other substance useo iu medicine This shows con
clusively that iron is acknowledged to be the mot
important factor in successful medical practice, it
however, a remarkable fact, thatprior to tho disc ov
sry of HR OWN’S I It ON 111 TTKKS no pjrioct
ly satisfactory iron combination had ever been found.
headache. or pnxlaoo oooatip.Uon—all ot her Iron
•ires Indigestion. Biliousness. Wrakur*.
Dyspepsia, llalnriu. I’hill* nnd Fever*,
Tired Feeling,*;*-nernl Debility,Palo tutlm
Side, Hack orl.lnibo,lleadoebe*ndNenrnl.
gin —for all theae ailments Iron is prescribed daily.
minute. Like all other thorough medicines, it acts
dowur. When r.rken by tncti the first symptom ot
oenefit is renewed ejtergy. The muscles then become
tinner, the digestion improves, the bowels are active.
In n-o/uen the effect is usually more rapid and marked.
The eyes begin at once to brighten; the akin clears
up; healthy color comes to the cheeks; nervousness
disappears; functional derangements become regu
'ar. and if a nursing mother, abundant- sustenance
is supplied for the child. Remember Brown’s Iron
Hitters is the ONLY iron mediciuo that is not in*
jurioua. Physfciatis and Druggists recommend it.
The Genuine has Trade Mark and crossed mi line?
wrapper, TiKl’ Nfl
IA >tti:uy.
|a Q |
CAPITAL PRIZE, $150,000.
“HV da hereby certify that ttv* supervUte the
arrangements for all fhe .Monthly and. Semi-
Annual Drawings of the Louisiana State JaU
tery Company , and in person manage and con
trol the Drawings themselves, and that the same
are conducted with hotuyry, fairness , cm l in
good faith toward, all partirs , and we authorize
the Company to use this certificate, with fac
similes of our signatures attached , in its adver
We the undersigned Hanks and Hankers will
pay all Prizes drami in the Louisiana State lot
teries which maybe presented at our counters.
J H OGLESBY, Pres Louisiana Nat'l Bank.
PIERRE LANAUX, Pres. State Nat'l Bank.
A BALDWIN, Pres. New Orleans Nat'l Bank.
CARL KOHN, Pres. Union National Bank.
v Over Half a Million Distributed.
Incorporated in 1808 for 25 years by the legis
lature for Educational and Charitable purpi -ses
with a capital of $1,000,000 -to which a reserve
fund of over 8550.000 has since been added.
By an overwhelming popular vote us franchise
was made a parr of the present State constitu
tion adopted December arl, A. D. 1870.
The only Lottery ever voted on and indorsed
by the people of any State.
It never scales or postpones.
It* {.rand Single Number Drawing* take
plan- monthly, and Ihe Semi-Annual Draw
[uic* regularly every *ix month* (June and
NS. TUESDAY, May ID, 1 sal’-
ll Prize, $150,000.
-Tickets are Ten Dollars only.
5; Fifths, $2; Tenths, $1
TOBfa-atffPA L PRIZE OF $150,000. $150,000
rgrand prize of 50,000. . 50,000
1 UR7Bn> PRIZE OF 120,000.... 20,000
/IWBMIqk frizes of 10.000.. . 20,000
4 RAfffiK PRIZES OF 5,000. 20.000
•JO PRIZES OF 1,000. .. 20,000
60 500... 26.000
iW “ 800. . 30,000
200 “ 200.... 40,000
500 “ 100... 60,000
1,000 “ 60.. .. 60,000
xppnoxiMATiotr prizes.
100 Approximation Prizes of S3OO 530,000
100 “ “ 200... 20,000
100 “ “ 100... 10,000
2, ITS) prizes, amounting to $535,000
Application for rates to clubs should he made
only to the office of the Company in New Or
For further information write clearly, giving
full address. HOST \l, NOTES, Express Money
Orders, or Now York Exchange in ordinary let
ter. Currency by Express (at our expense) ad
dressed M. A. DAI HHI.N,
New Orleans, La.
\Ya*liinglon, D. C.
Address Registered Letters to
New Orleans, La.
DE7N/ICMDUD That the presence of Oen-
K t IVI t rvl Dt rx ~r alK licfturegunl and
Early, who are In charge of 'lie drawings, Is a
gum-autoe of absolute fairness und integrity,
that the chances are all equal, and that no one
can possibly divine what number will draw a
KEMEMIIKIt lhat the payment of all Prizes
IIAVKsi of New Orlean , anil the Tickets un
signed by the President of an Institution, whose
chartered rights are recognized in the highest
Courts; therefore, beware of any imitations or
anonymous schemed.
toViit 1
Ifl ** v “-
IVrfeet, Lasting Cure and Full Vlpor,
Full Ktierxfcth, Potrnry nnd Drvelopmvot of Tart*,
with nevt Drain and Kcrva Timor* or we torieit
#IOOO. Wo u*e only tbo wonderful
(KAHJIE MFl)!(’.m:i> PEARLS.
No Humbug. U noun-work, or Rxprrlmwnt*
rOSITIVF PH OOP*. Itwiiira* ftvnb'ucq* Jt nt*
ory t/i tne iJiwovvrjr, IdM. of Cmck,..Ttefereucet,
Symptom*. Method nud Prlevp malb and rRr.E.
fitilctiFt Serrecv. fVnM!tatlon Free. jMJdrefti
:*3 Nr<t9iu Pt., Mew York*
The Original anil Only Genuine.
Safe and always Reliable Beware of worthless
Imitations, fmlUponaoble to LADIES. Ask
your Druggist for ••C’hlolienirr’* Eugilsli” and
take no other, or inclose 4c. (stamp) to us for
iwu-ticulars in lett. r by return mall. NAME
PAPER. • lileheater Chemical
2.413 Madison Square, Pliilmla. Pa.
Sold by Druggists everywhere. Ask for “t'lil
eliesier's English” Pennyroyal Pill*. Take
no other
% I Ua*4 10-4ay roaolarj bf 10.000 Avrrini
4Xi Woneii. OuißsKTiit- vraaioiTo su- • thus,
ob ( am Kart’ s*l n. l>*u l waniu oinufjr o
f e rrm.Bß KwtMßi TRY THIM KKMKDV FIRHT. a4
vu will Msi nt* oih* f . ABM)I.OTRkY INFiLLIBH*
rmrtivulftra. P’liK ♦ centß. . _
For b*lo uv l.U'l'jlaA buvau tiah. Ga. i
Stie ii Bii Comani
OF- —
- Georgia.
This company deals in a superior quality of Artificial
Stcxe for all building purposes. Buildings, Pavements, Curb
ing, Bridges, Railroad Culverts, Sewers, Chimneys and Orna
mental Tops; Stone Trimmings for Brick Buildings, Side
walks of all kinds, Cemetery Lots,Garden Walks, Flower Vases,
Corridors and Office Floors, Well Curbing, Fire-proof Vaults
for Banks and Private Residences, Fountain Bases—in fact,
this composite Stone may be applied to any of the uses made
of Brick or Stone, and is protected by letters patent. Our
Stone is fire proof and in ease of fire the walls will uot crack
like Brick, Natural Stone or Marble, of which we can give
sufficient proof. This Building Stone has been recommended
by the Florida Medical and Surgical Journal, which says:
“This Stone will be the building material of the future, for
aside from its beauty it fulfills all the requisites of sanitation
and economy.
Our Blocks have the air space in the Block for circular
tion of air.
County Right to Manufacture James S. Peirce’s
Patent Artificial Stone
Io the State of Georgia. For sale at the Company’s office.
The invention has for its object the production of an
Artificial Stone and Patent Block suitable for all Building
and Paving purposes, possessing strength and hardness, and
free from efflorescence when exposed to the air; and it con
sists in the combination of ingredients particularly described
in the letters of patent. This Stone is formed into Blocks in
any suitable molds and of any desirable color or shape, and
can be made at any place where good, clean, silicious sand or
broken rock is to be had.
See the Blocks being put in the walls of the new Epis
copal Orphan Home now being erected in this city,
and Liberty streets.
We warn all parties to not make, buy or use articles pfl
tected by patent and owned by us.
Cali at the Factory, foot of William street, or at tfl
Company’s Office, 116£ Bryan sireet, and leave your ordH
for Sidewalks, etc. n
State and. County Ttip:h.t to ManjJ
facture James S. Peirce’s
Patent Artificial Stone I
Minnesota, Florida, Lonisiana and Georgia Solfl
My invention has for its object the production of an
tifioial Stone and Patent Block suitable for all Building a®
Paving purposes, possessing strength and hardness, and
from efflorescence when exposed to the air; and it consists in
the combination of ingredients particularly described in tho
letters of patent. This Stone is formed into Blocks in any
suitable molds and of any desired color or shape, and can bo
made at any place where good, clean, silicious sand or broken
rock is to be had. JAMES S. PEIRCE,
At the Company’s Office, 1162 Bryan Street, or at the
Factory, foot of William Street, Savannah, Ga.
Shoes Slaughtered i
In order to reduce our immense stock of goods, we inaugurate a
series of Bargain Sales, and have placed on our Centre
Tables the following lots of genuine bargains:
r( \'r \Tn | 300 pairs Ladle*' Kid Hand-sewed Opera Slippers, full leather CAr,
j\ / 1 lx l " . 1 lined, Irox toes, Hold everywhere at 75c., we offer at ... O'
1/ PP V/ \ • 480 pairs Ladies' Kid Hand Hewed Ijiee Oxfords, full leather lined, Q|| n
t 1 lxl/* £t~ box toes. Hold everywhere at $1 2ft, we offer at t/v'-'
I / \ r p \ T ri *) B 8 pairs Youths’ Glove-Grain Sewed button Boots, with Sole Jb |> ►
Ijl J I lxl/* •) Leather Tip* and all solid, regular price $1 75, we offer at ffPl it)
I / \ r P \ T / k ) ..ISO pairs Ladies' 18-Tbruad Kerge Tip. Kill Fox IVishod, all | • e
Ij\ 7 1 INI/* T solid, sizes Is to 7s, regular price SI 75. we reduce to *3? I /
T /V I 1 VI 1 ft __lM iiaks Ijulios’lß-Thread Kergo Toiw, Kid Fox Hutton, worked button
J j\J 1 it V/■ t) holes, all solid, sizes Is to 7s, regular price *2 85, we offer |
1/ v'l' XT/A /• 58 pairs Misses’ Pebble Goat Hutton Boots, best oak leather soles (a
iUI IxV/. O” spier,dill school shoe), all solid, never sold at less than >2, y. ] ”/ k
we offer at rl till
I( \rp V/\ re _>it pairs Misses' Curaeoa Kid Button Boots, worked button iWk
jl ) 1 a' '/ * I holes, box toes, always sold at 92 75, reduced to nT m 'll)
f 1 I'F \T/\ Q„US pairs Ladies’ Best Curaeoa Kid 4-Button Newport#, Ik>:c toes,
lil 7 1 Ixx. / • O Morrow’s New York make, sold heretofore at s,'s. we re- Jh •) AA
duct* lto r<s ui;
1/ \ r l' VTA Q__47 pairs ladles’ Curaeoa Kid and Pebble Goat Button Boots, an assorted
j\ JJL lx V/• " lot, manufactured by Sailer, Iyovln & Cos. and Zeigler Bros., of
Philadelphia, always sold at 92 76 and SB, we otter any In ) AA
this lot at .. npA W
We have four more lots on our Centre Tables, among them Laird, Schohar & Mitchell’s French
Kid Button Boots, sold heretofore at $A 50. roilueed to so, and a lot of Zeigler’* I Julies’ and Misnoar
Laced aud Button Boots, a miscellaneous lot of broken sizes, all abthe uniform price of $1 50.
Karly callers will have the best choice
Jqs. Rosenheim & Cos.,

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