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filK UAltltlZOZO nkwH; Midsummer Calls For Cool Clothes American Women Adopt Costum cry That Is Best Suited to the Season. ABANDON WHITE LINEN SKIRT Adopt French Fashion of Meeting All Emergencies In Costumo of Thin Cloth or Any of the Chi. nete Silks. Now York. A woman who was looking nt somo snapshots of fashion nblo folks In t!n open on u mid-sum-ini.T tiny, remarked on Dm xciiliiirly old-fashioned effect of n certain ens tumc. It wns n short, whlto linen skirt buttoned down the front, n while mus lin blouso with n wldo turn-over col lar, n colored sweater opened In front, with pockets nnd n belt of itself. "Onco upon n time," Kiild IIiIh worn nn, "this costumo wns considered the uniform of tho Amerlcnn mnniner girl. ROAD BUILDING HIGHWAYS TO HELP US WIN mm I mm i This sl'etch for which the French wom an willingly posed, shows a mid-sum-mer frock of pale gray Chinese crepe de chine, with Its tunlo coat pushed far back toward the sides to show a sailor blouse of white crepe de chine, with Its collar edged with French-blue velvet to match tho "Blue Devil" cap on the head. It was adopted without cavil, It was accepted without comparison with tho fashions of nny other country. And yot, at this moment, it looks entirely out of tho picture," Thcro hns been no revolution, de clares a prominent fashion writer. Changes In Hummer apparel hnvo been In cities only. They nro American ized French fashions today. Even this Frocks of Freshness. 1'rocks of charming freshness nro tnndo of plain and embroidered orgon Ulo combined. One worn recently by n young girl shows a narrow underskirt or petticoat edged by numerous llttlo flutings of Valenciennes liico, turned up, Instead of down. Theso wcro set on a petticoat of plain orKiitidle. Over this was hung a slightly full skirt of embroidered organdie pink, embroid ered with pink threads In a loose, gplnshy design. The petticoat hung nbfjut three Inches below tho over-skirt. summer hns necn n distinct change from what has been. The linen skirt, gored nt tho top, slightly (hiring at tho hem, and but toned i'vii tho front, Is a thing of tho past to n grnt majority of women who nro well dressed by Instinct, or becniiso they follow tho movement of tho crowds, Any skirt Is worn burn ltnce one. Sweaters In Evidence. Certain shops say that tho salo of sweaters for tho autumn Is small, but they add that tho spring snlo was good. Wo sen sweaters In every shop, desplto thu conservation of wool decree Wo seo women knitting sweaters for them selves nnd their children, and not for tho soldiers nnd sailors. Wo read that colossal department shops hnvo nn un usual quantity of yarn nnd nro willing to sell It nt mndcrnto prices, Vrl. If ono Judges fashion by fash loruthlo folk, tho colored, knitted sweater has had Its day In silk or wool. It Is sometimes worn under Jnckets, on days In tho open that need warmth, when the nlTiilr Is a picnic, u yachting trip or an nutomohllo tour. Otherwise It hangs In tho closets of tho homes of fashionable women, llowovcr, Its lack of fnshlon has not depreciated Its mon etary value, for yarn Is an expensive) thing to buy nnd n most Intrlcato and illlllcult thing to ohtnln. What We Wear In the Open. Tho economical reasons for discard ing thu whlto linen skirt, tho knitted woolen sweater nnd tho ornamental, whllv muslin blouse nro based an ex pensive laundry nnd scarcity of ma "rial, plus scarcity of labor. Thoso largo sectors of American so ciety that considered this threc-plcco costumo tho most rcllnblo basis for their summer wardrobes, Imngtncd j their tnsto slmplo nnd Inexpensive. It 1 was neither. Today tho propaganda against non-cssentlnls, nnd tho conver sion of them Into active scrvlco for tho country hnvo caused tho scales to fall from tho eyes of thousands of women ' us to tho expense of the costumcry they adopted, ( Wo expect six mora weeks of warm weather, and therefore, wo hnvo no i I iiliRitrlilrif Inf t-iit In nnw Orfnlinr clothes, Wo wnnt to know what Is to ho worn, nnd wo nro most Interested ! In whnt we hear Is being shown in l'nrls, but at this moment wo nro strug- ; gllug with tho proposition of enliven ing our wardrobe In such n mnnner Hint It will keep us going until tho 1 first frost, I As tho nation has gotten Into tho , j habit of living In tho country until I Thanksgiving, tncro is n growing ten- dency to keep nno's August clothes In acllvo scrvlco by menus of top conts and woolen stockings. It must bo ad- ( mltted Hint tho present emergency enlls women Into town nenrly every day, and they may not continue to stay , In tho country ns long as November, 1 but tho majority will Insist on wearing their summer costumcry ns long as the climate nnd convention permit. 1 And right here comes In thu excellent , good tnsto of the present mld-smnmcr costumes. Their very departure from tho swentcr and tho scpnruto whlto skirt permits them to servo at other seasons. This Is tho stringent motto that must ' run tho warp and woof of our lives now: to buy that which can bo worn on ns many days, nt ns many nccn slotis as economy dictates. In short, we hnvo accepted tho Europenn way of dressing for hot weather. It may not , appear cool on tho surface, but Inven- j Hon, which must go hand In hand with necessity, hnB shown women how to bo cool and clean In dark costumes, or In combinations of dnrk and light clothes. (Copyright. 1!18, by the McClure Nows PMiar Syndicate.) No More Important Faetor In Winning War Than Good Roads Interest Shown In 8outhwet It would bo n illlllcult matter to es timate tho ndvantnges of state nnd In terstate hlgliwnys. Public highways nro now being located nnd built In most stntcs of tho Southwest nnd tho Interest these have contributed to good ronds Is of Immcnso benefit to locnl communities, counties mid stntcs, Tho highways, It Is understood, wilt connect stntcs, counties In states nnd form a Good Road In Southwest. mutual link of communication that will redound to great commercial and so cial benefits. Tho Southwest should bo n country of roads. Its vast resources of crops, llvo stock, timber, petroleum, conl and other necessities for winning tho wnr t should bo placed nt tho disposition of , tho people. With the Interest that Is , now being manifested It would seem that road building will proceed as fast ns materials and men can bo had. It Is hoped that every community In tho Southwest will tnko nn Interest In roud Improvement nnd lend assistance. Thcro Is no mora Important factor In winning thu wnr than good roads. Farm and Hunch. HIGHWAY BUILDING FOR WAR Roads Daek of English Army Built and Cared for Under Direction of General Maybury. Tho roads back of tho English army nro being built nnd cared for under tho direction of (Jen. II, 1', Moybury, who was ono of tho English county en gineers mid was afterward ono of tho engineers on tho road board In Eng land. Hack of ono of tho British armies n lieutenant colonel, ono of General Mnylmry's subordinates, has had chargii of Uio roads for two years, nnd lias hud from 1,000 to 12,000 men work ing on them constantly. Twcnty-llvo or ,10 per cent of theso hnvo been, (lor man prisoners. In order to keep tho roads merely insnblo thoy hnvo bad to use up to 2,000 tons of material a day. Broken Mono costs $7.r0 n ton. It Isn't u ques tion of cost, however; It Is n question of keeping tho trnlllc going. DAY OF TOLL ROADSPASSlNG Old York-Philadelphia Road Taken Over by State of Pennsylvania Joy for Drivers. A Bird in the Hand iBpocial Information Hervlco, United Htnlei Uopnrtment of Agriculture.) IT PAYS TO FATTEN CHICKENS. Chickens Oelng Fattened In a Home-Made Coop. They Just Eat, Take No Exercise, and Grow Fat. FATTENING HENS BEFORE SELLING Weight of Fowls and Quality of Flesh Can Bo Greatly Im proved Upon. GIVE CHICKENS FREE RANGE Original Velvet Sllpons. Ono sees many original sllpons In black velvet An exceedingly attrac tive oxamplo was stitched In white. Tho bell of velvet was almost con cealed by tho background of whlto stitching. Thu nccompnuylng bat was fashioned from whlto silk, with the top of tho crown nnd brim facing of black velvet. Jade Jewelry. Thcro Is n grcut fancy for green Jowclrr, nnd necklaces of Jhdo bends Tho day of the toll Is raptdly pass ing, n recent proof of which has ap pealed lu tho taking over of tho old ,,... , ,. ...... .. with pendnnts which nro wonderful ''' "'iim y w u uuu hits of Chinese carving nro treasures " ... , , . f , . priced by fortunate possessors. Tho "?'ltm 1 "'" ,ot nleg Iuito bends in such necklaces are usually fhttiU,ftdJ large nnd either round or oblong. Some- ' Jy " ,n,ll1 f crs, "sl" tms "H? tlnms llll.v silrrpr.0) unrllnni nil from . a " cylinder. They nro usually strung sim ply on a cord, but frequently have mountings of gold or silver filigree. Capeeoats of Mohair. Smart enpeconts aro of nnvy bluo mohair with lining of bluo nnd whlto foulard, Theso capes uro pleasantly light nnd easy to carry over tho arm, and offer sufficient protection for sum mer evenings. They nro cut In tho prevailing lines, with crossed waist coat section Hint holds tho full capo to tho flguro nt tho front. Tarns of Straw and Velvet. Tam-o'-shanters In ono form or an other nr much shown In tho millinery shops. Somo of them nro still of straw, but thcro aro others of panno velvet combined with ribbon, nnd of other fabrics, not excluding georgette. Felt tarns, too, aro shown In many rolors, for country nnd seaside wean tho colonial Inhabitants living along this route, appealed to tho governor for u good road to Philadelphia, nnd so cured tho building of u log nnd plnnk highway, which was regarded by them lis ft wonderful specimen of Improved road. This section of road Is now a part of tho Lincoln highway. UNITED STATES ROAD RULES Motorist Must Take Outside In Pass ing Team on Mountain Road With Steep Grade. Tho government's rules for motor ists covering tho roads In tho iintlonnl parks require that, In passing n team on n mountiilu rund with u steep grndo to one side, tho motorist nlwoys takes tho outsldo of tho road, whether It bo to tho left or right. This Is tho rulo of safety nnd courtesy on all llttlo traveled moantaln road. Milestones. Waste Products and Grain Can De Turned Into Valuable Meat Skim or Buttermilk Are Most Eco nomical Feeds. Moro attention should bo given to tho fattening of growing chickens, ns most of them nro marketed In u thin nnd unfinished condition, although both tho weight of tho chickens nnd tho quality of their flesh can bo greatly Improved by a short Period of fatten-' Ing, according to poultry specialists of tnu united states department of ucrl culture. Hens which hnvo been prop erly cared for are usually lu good mar ket condition, but If In poor flesh, they may bo confined to pens and fattened for ono or two weeks nt n nrollt. Tho farmer has very good conditions for producing woll-ileshed poultry, ns ho can utilize, waste products from his rami in growing this stock liv allow Ing tho chickens frco riiliiru and cot them Into tho best condition for fat tening, lioth tho farmer nnd bnek yard poultry keeper can thus turn wuslo products nnd grain Into flesh while securing n Inrgo amount of vnlu nblo mniHiro from tho poultry. Rklm or buttermilk, which aro great aids to tho most economical fattening, aro available as by-products on many rarms, i Pen Fattening. Tho farmer or bnek yard poultry keeper can fatten his thickens to best advantage by pen or crnto fattening. In pen futteiilng '.'0 to no chickens ure confined lu n pen with u small yard nnd red u fattening mash, surli in one composed of two parts of com ment i.nd one part middlings mixed with skim or buttermilk. If no milk Is nvnllnblc, which would bo thu enso 111 most back yard poultry Docks, make the mash of one part bran, ono part middlings, threo parts corumeal and one-fourth part meat scrap, Kecd twice dally, morning and afternoon, nnd In addition give n light feed of cracked com Into lu thu afternoon. Mix this mash to n crumbly consist ency and keep water and grit boforo tho chickens nil of the time. Supply these chickens with n good quantity of green feed, such ns sprouted outs, lawn clippings, etc., or wasto vege tables, such 03 cabbages, beets or small potatoes. If skim or buttermilk Is fed, It Is not necessary to add tho green feed. Crate Fattening. ' Crnto fattening Is the method of feeding. In which from six to ten chickens lira cnnllned together In ench j pen, arranged In tiers for convenience I in feeding tho chickens and cleaning tho coops. The following ration nnd method Is particularly adapted for crnto fattening: 80 pounds comment. 'JO pounds ground onts ami 10 pounds shorts mixed with skim or buttermilk, which Is nvnllablo on ninny farms. Tho feed Is mixed with milk to tho con sistency of thick cream, or so that It wilt Just drip from tho tip of a wooden spoon. About three-fifths of .tho mix turo should be milk, and It Is ndvlsnhlo to uso n larger per cent of milk In hot than lu cold weather to keep tho chick ens from going off their feed. Tho birds should bo fed lightly for tho first few feeds, when they can ho given nil tho feed they will eat up In about thirty mlmili.s, while nny feed left nt tho end of that I lino should bo taken away. Crate fattening Is only advised whero milk Is available for mixing thu ra tion. Thu chickens may bo fed either two or threo times dally, and can ho foil heavier at night to good advan tage than In tho morning or noon. 'I ho greatest iinil cheapest gnlns nro made on broilers, which nro usually fed about fourteen days, whllo tho length of tho fattening period may bo shortened slightly for fryers ami roast ers. Tho greatest profit ami the high est prices are secured from early chickens, whether they nro broilers or roasters. It takes from four to suven pounds of grain to produce u pound of gain In fattening. Crates nnd fnttenlug pens should bo kept clean and carefully disinfected. Tho droppings should he removed dally or overy other day, and after n lot of chickens uro killed thu pen should be sprayed with whitewash containing li per cent of carbolic ncld. It Is not necessary to treat tho chick ens Individually for llco If the coops nro treated In this way. It Is iiilvjs nblo either to spray the trays of tho crates lightly with it coal-tar disinfect ant uftci' cleaning, or to sprltiklo them with nlr-slakcd lime. Tho coops should ho examined carefully onco dally and sick anil dead birds removed. This Is especially essential lu tho fall luon t lis when tho chickens aro moro apt to ho sick. )MtUf 41 TO INCREASE VALUES Tho head of u concern which operates three largo stores In Greater New York and handles largo qunntttlcM of all-meat products recently made tho statement that, lu his opinion, tho poultry growers of tho United States could do moro. to Increase iho value of their poul try products by fattening all poultry before selling It than In any other way, Tho proper plaeu to fatten poultry Is on tho fnrm or In tho buck yard whero fattening enn bo ns it should lie Just n continuation of tho 2 process of growing tho poultry! or, In Iho enso of old birds u 5 variation rrom Iho feeding moth- oils iimmI for stock birds that 2 will Improve their flesh with thu least trouble and cost. Corn a Fattening Feed. Corn is heating and fattening, nnd when fed to closely confined fowls In largo quantities fut rather than eggs Is tho usual result. For laying hens It should bo balanced with meat, hone, linseed, gluten and such feeds ns nro rich In nitrogenous matter, for corn Is deficient In this constituent. When corn Is fed to laying li'dis Hint hnvo opportunity to tnko plenty of exorcise nnd to secure Insects nnd green feed, much moro satisfactory results nro likely to bo obtained than when It Is fed to tho sama fowls closely confined. It may bo fed qulto largely In tho cold climates during winter, but should bo fed sparingly during summer. Vary Poultry Ration. In feeding grain to poultry thu aim of tho feeder should bo to glvo a va riety. No ono kind of grain nlono Is best. Vnrlety may bo secured by mix ing tho grains or by feeding tho differ ent kinds of grain on different days. This variety Is In accordance with nature. When on freo range, tho fowls obtain a llttlo of' several different kinds of feed, 'drain should not bo tnado tho solo feed, except In the fat tening pen, for then fat and not eggs Is tho usual result.