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THE OARRIZOZO NEWS.
Capes and Gowns' for Spring Wear Garments In Vast Array Make Choice Wholly Up to tho Individual. UNIFORMS AMONG PAST EVILS Msnnlsh Dressing Does Not Admit of Women Looking Their Dett; Pretty Clothes Drlng Out True Disposition. Online retlrrt current events and th spirit of tho times In which we live to n greater extent than nppenrs tn the rnsunl observer, KiihIiIoii!) nrc now nil topsy-turvy as tliu rent n( tlio world, observes n prominent fashion correspondent. Mnny things nre fluiHii, Imt few nro chosen, so tho best thing we tun ilo In to select the clothes Hint host express licnuty anil harmony nml that nlmvu nil nrc lovely mill feminine. Let uniforms nml mnnnlsh dressing fnr women lie muting iiKt cvlln. It mny he thnt linlfiirniK nro trinplrlnR tn feminine wenrers some lienplo think nh-hut why lie Inspired to ho nn clll clrtit tiinihltief Who wouliln't prefer tliu Involution thtit comes from frills nnd furbelows? If n woman Is licau tlftilly nml becomingly drcssisl she linH thnt Mini gratifying nssurnnco thnt rumen with the knowledge thnt she In looking Iier best, and she Ih possessed cif something nkln tn tho fnlth thnt removes mountnlns. There In ho dnnht nlinut It tiretty vlothen mnke tin cheerful nml hnppy nnd chiirnitng. I There nre ever no iiiiiny new French Idtim thnt we van Uso In making our spring frnckn smnrt nnd becoming fur Instance, thu little undcrslreven of white intitl thnt peep from beneath (hurt, tight sleeves of either Rllk or l-trgu dresses lire hentitlflil. Mnny of llicxe Imve plrnt llnlslnsl frlllH of the niiitl net on llntly, nnd sometimes theso frllln nre edged with nitl Ince. Worth chimed dlrectolro (.owns of Ilk with tiny undcrsleeven, nnd often n mntehliig treiilinent wns enrrled out In the roiliidlug neckline. Here n lit tle gllet of mull wiik edged with one nf these porky fluted frills Mint hnrely thowrd Itself from heui'iilli thu cloth. Hhort-wnlstrd dresses of tnlTein nrc curded hoth lit thu wnlstllno nnd rounded neck, nml noiiietliuen nt thu tinttuiii ok tie sleeves nn welt, 3uv enil of thesu drosses Imvo Bin ill I ill- Topcontn linvo not been neglected thin season. They, loo, hnve come In for their xlmre of trlmmlngn nt n time when everybody seems ty lie ipilts mini on thu subject nt ornaments linn. lentlier and twenl nre Tnvorlte combinations for country wenr. Conrne grained hluck lentlier without even a suspicion of gloss tonus n voluminous shawl collnr, cuff nnd even ample patch pocketn on n emit nf ilnrk gruy homespun, nml with a narrow strip of leather It In heltcd high tinder the arms then It tlnren townrd the hot torn after tho iniinner of nwngger top contn, Smooth rel leather trims a motor cent of duM-colorcd Irish tweed, Thu Inrge huttoiin thnt fnstcii It are leather-covered, nnd this time the lentlier collnr nnd rcvers swing the Dlseau bleu Is the name of this frock of chiffon velvet with flowing Chin, tllly lace sleeves. reetolre rapes to cninplele them. Hurh mptxi tire cut short in the front unil longer tn the hnek Winged Moths Luring the Plames, A slender, straight-line dress with l etw thnt makes Its wearer look like little winged uiotii In plctureue fnous.li for any woman who duos not Wear slrletly lallaMiindu things mid priiWIcnl nouKh to ndnpt Itneir In nny knur of the dny. Wide box plultn of tilt doth that hung loose except where the nre mucin nt the neckline nnd MMtrneolli tho hem at the bottom of the skirt nre a new feuttire. The round neckline appears In this model Bird It Is softened by n rolling collur nf white silk. Venetian red buckles are used to fasten tho belt, which Is somewhat wider Hum Is mindly worn nn gowns of this type. The enpe s Slide like Hume Just described, which curvo nhortcr In front, nnd It Is silt fur nmlholcs nt either side. White satin Is used for Its lining. Jinny of these rapes shown at thu French open. Ings were Until with ration fntirlcs. (Md.fashlnnrd while cross-tin rrcd mus lin frequently wns used to line both rapes and cents, ' Navy blue trlcotlne gown and caps to msicn aiioras one or ino Taverns combinations. pendulum of fashion In tho opposite direction by being very scanty. Tho cuffs nre, unusually narrow; In fnct, they nro little moru thnn facings. To make this overcoat wnrmer as well ns smarter It Is given a red cloth lining, Linen of coarse wenro Is used to ninko surpllco wulstconts for still other topconts. Murine bluo Is tliu color tnont often chosen, nnd u leather collar nnd curt In tho snme htm In lidd ed. One iipw motor cent thut I saw was of black and white plnldvd worst ed. It wan n loose, buggy affair with raglnu sleeves, and tun lentlier faced the collnr nnd cuffs. Another good looking one was of ehnmpiigne-col-orrd -iimel's hair clotli tho real mind's hnlr cloth which Is so dlfllcult to procure now. Tliu coat wns swung from n deep yoke, and the collar, which In this Instance" wns of the cloth, rumpled up nrotnid the ears In becoming folds. Champagne-colored silk with a broad purple stripe iiinde a striking lining. Humble Straw Makes Its Debut There Is a French cout thnt has gone so far us tn have a straw collnr. Collars mid cuffs of ether routs are ndorned with buildings of tightly In terlaced straw. Tlds Idea of trimming clothes with straw Is nun pant. The other day I saw soinn Inllnred sport shirts of white linen, and under the tucks In the front wns set u finely Muled trimming of brown linen woven so as to appear like straw. A prim UHnti rollar and turned-hack cuffs vrcru bordered to match. Why fulllu silk should he selected ns n mntorlnl from which to evolve port clothes Is a bit dlfllcult tu say. especially when there are so mnny beautiful tdlks of rough weave that are made fur nothing but this typo of dress. However, thu tact remains that fulllu nnd Angora hnve formed an alliance tn mnke some flport clothes so good looking thnt we scnrcely dure question their practicability. One suit that I saw was of huff-colored faille and hud bands of brushed Angora down either side of tho skirt, from wulstbntid to hem. Thu Angorn, which wns light brown In color, encir cled the bottom of tho short box ront nnd formed it scurf collnr Just llko tho scurfs we Imvo worn on our sweater, Theso loose, scurf -like collars are much used. Uove-gray silk mudo another sull thnt had siuoko-cclnrrd Angora ns Its trimming. Ilrlck red silk was chosen for n cape. A straight strip of- the faille wns taken and gathered to u linnd nt gray Angorn. Any ono whn can use, it needle could easily mnke such a wrap and It wan so pretty and effective I The moro serviceable red velours might lie substituted foi silk, or turquoise blue clotli with white Angorn would bu effective. HEARD aiASEEN ai CAPITAL Flh Day. He Ity Jove, Uclty. you look nice inough to enl. fine Well, don't forget tills Is Ifrldny. Boston Transcript. Why This American Grandmother Gets Passpor WARllINOTON. Tho stnte department Is stilt sitting on the passport lid nnd thu American who goes oversells these days must hnve rent business Hut Mrs. Adeline, Wngner, a little old woman of llellnlro. 0., Is going t I rnnce. Her story, nt tlrst unbcllcvcd, has been Investigated nnd found to bo Iruo In every particular. Whrn tho wnr broke nut Mrs. Wagner's one son Joined Iho I'rcnch army ns n private In thu One Hundred and Forty-eighth Infantry regiment. Ills wife nnd two children were In llel glum and saw their vlllngu fall Into tho hnnds of the (Icrmiins. The husbnnd wns killed In nctlnn nn thu Homme, nnd his widow com mitted n crime. Hhe envo n French soldier n drink of wuler. Hhe nnd her son were hustled off to thu Tiling M ii a re where a dozen or moro villagers wero awnltlug death. Dhastly humor actuated ono of tho (lerninn olllcers ivnen he saw th widow nnd her boy, a youth of twelve. IIu handed tho youngster a rlllo urn explained to him Hint both hu nnd his mother would bu saved from punish ment If he killed one of the helpless villagers before them. Ho thrust the rlfU Into tho boy's hands, "When I count three," hu explained, "yuu tire nnd yot kill." Then hu counted. A shot rung out. The hoy hnd wheeled about nnd fired nt thu hulklnt form In gray. The (lermiin olllcer wns dead. In nn Instant tho Intter's com pnnions hnd killed both the mother nnd son. Thu hnby girl, then six months old, wns nnt held culpnhlo hy the ncrmiini nnd she escaped. The grandmother todny thinks neighbors hnve enred for bet nnd sho wants tho child. Sho will also search fnr three graves. Is It nny wonder thut thu stuto department granted n pnssport to thlt grandmother? Farmors Want Soldier Sons, and Want Them Now TP III! farmers of thu country nro up In nriin over tho refusnl of tho wnr do pnrtmr-nt to relensu from the army enmpn thousands of soldiers desperatel) needed to plant the crops this spring. Henntors and representatives have been Inundated with appeals for relief from tho agricultural sections In which the shortage of farm labor Is so ncuto ni to threaten a diminution nf food crops nnd the secretary of wnr Is being horn hnrdrsl ' J tho stntcsmen. Altogether n showdown between tho farmers nnd thu war department appear Imminent In vigorous letter to Acting Sec retary of Wnr Crowell, Itcprescntiitlve Frank I.. Smith of Illinois has voiced the demands of tho farmers and their lack of comprehension of a demolilllr.ii Hon system which reii-ucc tnnusiiuds of men without Jobs whom the govern ment Is expending hundreds of thousnndn of dollar to aid In procuring employment, whllo retaining In tho servlco thnusunds of farm hnnds clamoring to be discharged In order to return to the Jobs waiting for them. Tho war department bus contended thnt only Indlspcnsnble soldiers were being retained In tho servlco nnd Hint tho wnr emergency Is not ended, Olllclal utterances hnve brondly Intimated that, ns n largo army Is still necessary to hnck up tho president In forcing tho enemy to conclude, n satisfactory pence, It Is llttlo short of unpiitrlotlc If not disloyal to demand dlschnrgcs so numer ous ns to weaken our forces under nrnts. Tho fnrmors retort Hint the forces would not be wenkenod If men returned from oersens without Jobs in sight were assigned to army enmps to replace mo nirin minus, Kuril cuso Is n desperately urgent enso nt this time, became If n fnrm Is not pinnteu soon it must llo Idle, "Plus War Tax" Now in Shopkeepers' Vocabulary Un'.US wnr tnx" bus been ndded to tho vocabulary of tho sales person In 1 "women nnd mlsfes" garments. Tho 10 per cent luxury tnx to help oerruy tne expenses or tho recent excursion to Kuropo went Into effect Slny 1 I.ltlgt'iio alone Is exempt from tho levy. Ilnsed on the minimum tnxnhlo vnlues, milady's outfit on n summer Any will represent n tnx of $.1.30 on n $53 wardrobe, not Including Jewelry, is she will ho Keen Sundays, hnlldnys, nnd matliieii days. In brief, It will rest n woman 10 per rent moro to dress op with the luxury tnx plastered on. And '1 per cent mora to "mnko up." Thu fl per cent tnx Is pluccd on toilet snaps, perfumes, essences, ex tracts, toilet waters, cosmetics, hnlr nils, pomades, hnlr dressings, hnlr restoratives, tooth and mouth wnshes, dentifrices, aromatic enrhous, nnd petroleum products, The ladles' wearing nptmrel tax starts on silk stockings costing i'l or overt shoes for which $10 or more Is pnld; hats, SIS; petticoats nnd wnlstn, $lr j pnjamns, 15, nnd the necessaries Include fans, Jl; parasols, $1, and vanity cases, 12.1. There Is n 10 per cent tnx on things to wear tnnilo of fur, hide, or pelt, 'minks selling nt ?I0 come under the tax. As to lints, the government r.eems to real I to tho neresslty of n good hut for a woman. Men lire tuu-d for their millinery on anything over $', while women mny spend ns high ns $15 without being lilt. Toilet ankles, however, are taxed 1 reut for each 2D cents or fraction thereof, l'ersous with deformed feet, whoso shoes Imvo to bu mudu especially for them, mny go over the $10 mark without penalty. As n matter of fact, the tnx Is so small Hint, whllo In tfie nggregato It will mean much to tho government. It will not burden tho Individual very heavily. Million Homes Needed; Undo Sam Quits Building rvNH million new hmics uud npnrtmentn nre needed throughout tho country U the department of labor estimates, Tho war caused such a slackening of the building Industry In everything except wnr essentials that tho den d foi Homes is now tint greatest In the his tory of thu country, lleturns Imve been received from several hundred localities nnd In every one of them, ex cept n few where houses wero built by tho government for war nceds.-u short ugu of housing Is reported. New York city shown tho grentest nerd of hot Ing, shelter for TI1.000 families being needed, In liillndclpliln !.(00 nro needed, Detroit's llguro In tMI.OOO. Kffons nru being made by the do iiartment tn get this vast amount ol building under way nt once. To assist In homo building thu labor department plutm to usk thu next congress to establish u system of homo loan bunks to loan money lor building homes, Just as tho farm loan banks now loan money en farms. A tcntntlve draft of a bill provides thnt tho homo lonn hanks shall bo formod out of the now private homo lonn nnd building associations. On tho other hand, houses of artistic nppenrnnco and good material, having every convenience, can be built at costs which Imvo pruvnllcd during and sluco mo wnr, tor nuiounts inryiiig from s.utHJ to $5,000 cuch. This tins been proved by the United Btutes Housing corporation, which built during tho wnr many thousand such houses. It work wns Interrupted by the armistice, and It is now engaged In closing nut a $100,000,000 business on short notice. Uullko linslnml, the United States government will not hulUl any house as v rvvuiiauuviiuu luuusuru. Proving It Pussyfooting Is a calamity." 1 snpposo It Is something of a catastrophe." What is Castor la C ASTORIA la a harmleM robaUtuto for Castor Oil, Paregoric, Drops and Soothing Syrups, It Is pleasant. It contains neither Opium, Uorphba nor other Narcotic substance. Its age I Itf gnar onte. For mora than thirty year it has been In constant uis for tho relief of Constipation, Flatulency, Wind Colic and Diarrhoea j allaying Feverish ness arising therefrom, and by regulating tho Stomach arid Dowels, aids tho assimilation of Food: giving healthy and natural sleep, Tha Children's Panacea Tho Mother's Friend. Tho Kind You Havo Always Bought, and which has been In use for over 150 y oars, has boms the signature of Chas. II. Fletcher, and has been mads under his personal supervision since Ita Infancy, Allow no one to deceive you In this. All Counterfeits, Imitations and "Just-as-Good" aro but Experiments that trlfls with and endanger tho health of Infants and -.0 r Children Experlenco sgalnst Experiment Sj) sj&frf-f-l ? Grnulno Oastorla always bears tlioslgnature of lutr7X-CCCCA4tC Tuition Will De Free. "She says she's going to give sing ing lessons." "Sho'd havo to. No- body'd ever pay her for them," Authorities differ ns to whether n poker room should bo classed as an ante room or drawing room. Rely On Cuticura For Skin Troubles lll4mrf!4tflnpyx IMlmqtSlAWtTftlmmSl HatU ti tn tt '-Cur, wri S, Sirtifc" There Is nothing morn Idiotic than the smllo of a pretty girl when di rected toward Homo other fellow. When it mini begins to discuss mat rimony with u widow the result ll usually n tie. WHEN BUYING ASPIRIN ALWAYS SAY "BAYER" Ask for "Bayer Tablets of Aspirin" in a Bayer package marked with "Bayer Gross.'' Don't buy Aspirin tablets In n pill box. Insist on getting thn llnycr pack ago with tho safety "Ilaycr Cross" on both packago and on tablets. No other way I You must say "Ilaycr." Never ask for merely Aspirin tablets. Tho nnmo "Unyer" means you nro getting tho genulno "Ilaycr Tablets ef Aspirin," proven snfo by millions of people. Ilowaro of counterfeits! Only re cently n Brooklyn manufacturer was sent to tho penitentiary for flooding tho country with talcum powder tab lets, which ho claimed to bo Aspirin. In the llnycr package nro proper di rections and the done for Headache, Toothnche, Karachi-, Neuralgia, Itheti mutism, Lumbago, Sciatica, Colds, (Irlppe, Influcnznl-Colds, Neuritis and pnln generally. "Ilnyer Tablets of Aspirin," Ameri can rando nnd owned, nro sold In vest potket boxes of 12 tablets, which cost only n few cents, also In bottles of 21 nnd bottles of 100 also capsules. Aspirin Is tho trado murk of lluyei Manufacture of Monoacctlcacldcstel of Sallcyllcacld. Danger In Abbreviation. Even the school nurso has her tun. In n tnlk before tho central philan thropic council tho other day, Miss Helen It, .Stewart of tho hoard of health told of ono llttlo boy who, lifter ho hud been exntnlned by the nurse, went to the tencher In tenrs, complaining thut the nurso called him names. When thu teacher expressed her surprise, the boy sought to prove his case hy handing her the enrd the nurso had Riven to him ns her record of the examination. M.ook nt Hint I" ho cried. "I'oor nut," rend tho cnnl. "I'oor nutrition," explained the teacher, finally sending the child away Willi it better opinion of tho nurse. Dalian News. Von Tlrpltr a Pauper. The Tribune do (leneve Is Informed thut flrnnil Admiral von Tlrpltz Is staying nt Wlldegg. Switzerland, nn tho guest of t.leut.-Cnlonel Wllle, son of the former coinmnniler-ln-clilef of the Kwlsn army. TlrplU Uns lost all his fortune. Ills son Is a clerk In u bank nt Zurich, nnd his daughter la n governess In n Zurich family. To avoid paying the Herman wnr tnx nf Iflin Tlrpltz Invested his money In Itullnn securities, with the result thnt ho Is now penniless. What n patriot I Information Needs Confirmation, "Old Horsey Dudgeon prides him self on knowing where tho conllugrn Hon In nn soon nn hu hours the tire bell ring," related thu landlord of the l'rtunln tnvern. "Hy tho tlmo half n dozen wbings Imvo changed he linn scrabbled Into n garment or two nnd Is out on his front porch, hollering to tho people running hy Just where ho knows the lire Is." "He should be of considerable ns. nlstnncu to thn volunteer firemen and others In sending them In thu proper illiectlon," commented tho Interested guest. "Hli-ynhl He would ho if ho didn't nine times nut of ten know It wrung." KniiRjiH City Htnr. Glossing Over the Facts, "1'n, what Is u euphemism?" "I'll have to explain thut hy giving you an example, sou." "Tes, jiii." "Tho dictionary snys n euphemism Is 'u llguro of speech hy which a word or'phrnno moro agreeable or less offen sive In substituted fnr ono morn ac curately expressive of what In meant,' ns In thn rnso of the society reporter who stutcs Hint n widow who bus been married three or four times Is 'led to tho altiir' by n wealthy old rodger who never had thn slightest notion of get ting married until lie fared thu preach er." Hlrmlnghnm Age-Herald. Economy in Postum Boil Postum as ilong as you please, and you will extract only healthful goodness. You'll get no caffeine the coffecdruff for there's none in Postum. THe Original Postum Cereal in fact, should be boiled fully 15 min utes, and if desired the pot can bo kept going from meal to meal, adding more Postum and water for the new service. Postum is the favorite of large numbers of former coffee-drinkers and can be secured from grocers everywhere. Two Sizes, usually sold at 15c nnd 25c J$ Delicious, Invigorating and Healthful Drink "There's a Reason"