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" -;: -'-ti r. - 4- 4j5r-!VV"S51 a'" 3vyy" ' ' ' ..n - "ii v . . THE KANSAS CITY JOURNAL, SUNDAY, APBIL 3, 1898. 15 ?? wtflAjrv Consolation. When Uollr eame home from ths party to-night The party was out at sine There wer traces of tears In her bright blot eyes That tooled mournfully tip to mine. For some one had Bald, she whispered to ma. With her face on mr shoulder hid. Some one had said (there were sobs In her voice). That they didn't lite somethlnc she did. Bo I took my little slrl np on my knee I am old and exceedingly vise And X said: "Mr dear, now listen to m; Just listen and dry your eyes. 'This world Is a dlSeuIt world. Indeed, And people are hard to suit. And the man who plays on the Tlolln Xs a bore to the man with the flute, "And I myself bare often thought How Tery much better 'twould be If erery one of the folks that I know Would only acres with me. f "But since they will not, the Tery best way To make this world look bright. Is nerer to mind what people say. And do what yon think Is right." Walter Learned, In the New York Herald. "We are told that there will not be the usual large exodus across the ocean this summer, on account of the coming exposi tion In 1600 In Paris that will take so many Americans abroad. But despite this prog nostication there seems to be as many as usual at this season of the year making their plans for an early flitting across "the pond." As to the wardrobe part of the planning, the woman of the party has a chance to prove herself a genius, and the fewer boxes she can manage with, and the more swag ger she can look out of these few boxes, the greater the genius wo will admit she is. It Is a little art all by Itself, and one well worth while being versed in. If It is a woman's first trip across, it were well to take Into consultation an experienced traveler: on her second voy age her own experiences, more or less dire, will aid her. In the first place, one grip and a steamer trunk Is all one cares to have In the state room. Vanity is a missing quantity on board, not necessarily because of Illness, although one's appearance Is a small enough matter, but for the very Joyousnes3 or. ncaitn one forgets ana generally looks uncommonly well In the forgetfulness. Un less one's hair has a delightfully natural i cun a severe snugness is tne only possible arrangement, for, even If alcohol lamps were not forbidden, hair curled artificially will not stay In place a minute in the moist Fea air. But one has no ambition to strug gle with refractory locks against the damp Influence of the elements. One is supposed to wear abroad a hand some traveling gown coat and skirt and dainty silk shirt. One emerges from one's stateroom, the third day out, we'll say. In ulster and cap. with either a simply made wool frock beneath, or a shirt and skirt. In that one trunk that we take to our stateroom the steamer trunk, that It may slip under the berth we have packed this toilet, along with our big plaid rug and our two cushions and our books, the the soft room slippers, the bath wrap and the change of lingerie. In the "grip" a dress-suit case. 1 prefer are our toilet articles. Including a many-pocketed bag of linen to hang on the wall for greater convenience, and the other thousand and one small articles that are always tucked . into a traveling bag. Make all this snug; the coming-aboard frock hung up. the toi let bag in place with the hot water bottlo and the traveling flask and screw-top -cologne bottle In the three biggest pockets the less uefu articles In the steamer trunk under the berth and all immediately necessary articles In the "grip." After one experience of a stormy voyage, when, with one's head throbbing with a noise that threatened to drown the throbs of the engine, one knelt on the unsteady floor trying to And stray hairpins or some other small necessary that was tucked Into what seemed on shore a convenient cor ner of the steamer trunk, and that trunk under the berth where a strength Is de manded to tug It out that one has not, ono blesses that handy linen bag with a ferv ency In proportion to the occasion. Then you incur, too, the vast respect of both the steward and the stewardess as a seasoned traveler, and, knowing that their chances for a right tip are sure, they will give their best services. The Inexperienced either make the mistake of tipping too ex travagantly or too n!ggardl the latter, perhaps, not knowing tho duties of the stewardess, demand little and think to fee accordingly. The best way Is to ask for all the services one needs, the dally bath, and the early morning coffee In the stateroom, and the stewardess, feeling that you are appreciating her and have a right knowl edge of the comforts of traveling, under stands that your fee 111 be a remunera tive one, and bestows her services un grudgingly. This has been my experience on many steamers, so I am Justified in giv ing it as typical Now, as to what to wear for a trip at this time of the year or a llttlo later: The gown ono wears abroad Is the gown one is to wear at the landing at Liverpool tho front door of Kurope somebody called It once and It may be as trim and snug as possible, but one wants comfort above all else on board, for. from the start, ono wants to revel in idleness, and that de lightful condition was never enjoyed in a high collar or tight belt. Apropos, It Is sometimes more surprising to see on tho last hour out a deckful of smartly gotten-up men and women filling the chairs of tne tweed-clnthed. great coated travelers of the day before, and now and then familiar forms are almost un recognizable. Every good and old globe trotter knows that the rough and readv is the only thing comfortable on board a steamer, and It has come to be the only thing absolutely "good form;" but, for tho Continent, tailor gowns, and a little fresher traveling togs for the men, with smart hats replacing the jolly little caps, are more correct In their inconspicuous elegance. "Suitability" to the occasion and needs, and "Inconspicuous elegance" are tho keynotes always and everywhere to perfectly correct dressing. I have seen tills week three or four lead ing tailor-made gowns designed for trav eling, all of which merit description. Ona was of a dark blue broadcloth, hung over black satin. The skirt fitted snugly about the hips, and was. furthermore, hung without the hip seams, a fashion that enli ven slight women may affect, since it makes a graceful roundness that is only possible for such figures. The skirt was braided with two rows of flat black braid outlining the front breadth and making a. equnxo design, and ns it turned it followed tho hem of the skirt five or six Inches above it. The Jacket was very short and trimmed with flat braid at the seams. Wldo revers and tho collar were of white satin, covered with narrow lines of braid, and When the Jacket was opened the revere were shown to be of the shawl design, ex tending to the bottom of the jacket. When they were folded in the Jacket was held by four braid frogs. The sleeve were snug, with braid at tho wrists and across the slight fullness of the tops. Pockets WRB were many, and the lining was of pale green silk, with a white and black satin stripe crossing it. Mixed stuffs are awfully chic, made in tailor form. One of the best was of a brown and red mixture of a smooth sur face. The skirt, like the blue, was without tho sldo seams, but had two corded seams down the front tides and rows and rows of stitching about the hem. The brown, silk foundation hung separate from the out side. The jacket was as severe as possible; short and snug, and buttoning with medium-sized bone buttons. There were three little pockets, with stitched and buttoning flaps and small revers. It was an emi nently "trig" costume, and could not have been attempted by other than the best of good tailor-dressmakers. A pretty wool frock that was built to wear under an ulster was of a golden brown cloth of a smooth surface. The skirt waa trimmed about the knees by four bias folds of black satin. The bodice bloused from a yoke and was trimmed all about with the bias folds of black. The yoke was a smooth-fitting one of tucked black satin, with the choker soft and high and fastening simply on tho side. Little turned-over edges of linen gave the wrists and neck a pretty freshness these are easily laundered and soft and comfortable to wear. Another gown had a lovely blue and green plaid skirt, and a blue cashmere shirt fastening with old silver studs and cud links, and held at the waist by an old sliver belt. Linen collars and cuffs are not an absolute necessity with this gown, for one could wear those convenient linen pieces. Serge makes a neat steamer dress, but only if the ulster is lined; otherwise a smoother faced cloth Is better. Now as to outer wrap. There are more people who prefer smart little rough jackets, or capes, for the deck, but the majority of comfort-loving travelers like best tho long buttoned ulster, that Is smooth and warm to tho feel when wrapped up in the steamer chair, and has a hood In which to doze cosily, and in the depths of which ono may hido at the sound of the ap proaching footsteps, breathing of energy misplaced, that herald the lrritatingly cheerful countenance of the passenger who has crossed twenty-nine times and never been sick because he walked about and kept animated. A lig for all such advice: one can Judge best for one's self, and even If one feels aulte well one doesn't want to be 'talked Into an attack of mal de mer. So by all means have a hood If you want privacy and rest. A jolly ulster was of a rough brown tweed, with little red threads knotted all over It, and with brown trimmings and facings. There was no lining except in the sleeves, for the stuff Itself was thick. The back and front both fell straight, the back being lelted down by a brown leather belt. The front was double-breasttd and buttoned to the feet with largo bone buttons. One square revcr turned over at tho top, of brown cloth, and If the ulster was opened It showed its wide facing of cloth. There were three deep pockets, with little lap pets that buttoned down, and the sleeves wero small and like a man's coat sleeve. The hood fastened to the ulster with small bone buttons, so that it need not be worn unless desired, and was a peaked one of brown cloth lined with a brown silk. It looked uncommonly fetching on the head, as it had wide turned over pieces of silk about the face. A blmple walking hat of soft gray felt Is a pretty hat to wear aboard ship, for it is light, and if one is lounging in one's chair there Is the hood for greater com fortor a cap of jaunty yachting shape. Unfortunately, few women look pretty In a yachting cap without the curling hair. The best hatters this spring are showing some stunning new hats for golfing and other sports that are also eminently well suited for trax'eling. They are of gray or brown felt, with a soft band of plaid silk and a quill or two on one side. They are the usual mannish shaped Alpine hats, mado novel by this slight trimming and a newer cut. NEW RIBBON CORSET. It la All Soft Curves and Graceful OntllncH, Comfort and Fnli!on. Here Is a new ribbon corset, which Is all soft curves and graceful outlines, and which yet gives just a pleasant amount of support to the figure. You will see Its form and fashion from the little sketch: and note how It Is cut quite short in the hips, so that the skirt mav fit smoothly and closely over the rounded figure In the fash- Ion which it is now our chief aim In life to secure. At the sides and back the little corset is strengthened by the addition of whalebone: and I cun assure you that It is the perfection of comfort, as well as the height of fashion though perhaps height is hardly the right word to use in this con nection, seeing that the new corset is little more than a low belt! Sabbath school teacher "Why, Petey Murnhy! Fighting again? Did not last Sunday's lesson teach that when you are struck on one cheek to turn the other to the striker?" Petey Murphy "Yes'm: but ho belted mo on the nose, an,' I only got one." Puck. NEW RIBBON CORSET. SPRING STYLES FOB MEN. SEW HATS AD SHOES ARE BUILT OX ENGLISH LINES. Changes in Collars and Caffs, Ties and Coats Brilliant Waistcoats Growing; In Favor The Newest Cane. Men will be English at both ends this spring and summer; both headland foot will be clothed in the English mode, ac cording to the New York Press. The old Mackinaw straw hat Is gone and broad brims and high crowns are going. The new hat Is low and has a narrow brim. Straws will run from 2 3-4 to 3 1-2 Inches in height, and the brims will be from 2 to 2 1-2 Indies broad. Instead of the plain band there will be a sash In slightly twisted folds. The seaside hats are particularly nobby, being of plaits of full sennit, as the broad unsplit straw Is called. Some give the name rough and ready to this form. It makes a strong, durable and light hat. There is also tho English sennit, slightly heavier, which will be wxirn, doubtless, because It is Imported. This is a handsome hat, but more for special occasions. Derbys, too, will be lower, with rounder crowns and narrower brims. They will fit, therefore, rather close to the head, and be a trifle lighter. A feature of the new der by is the underside of the brim, which is finished In cloth, exactly as are brims of silk hats. So far there is no fear of successful at tempt to introduce the oddities of Austria or Germany, even on the golf links or the tennis courts. Fifteen years ago a trial was made, and some folk tried again three years ago, but Americans refused to be grotesquely gay or to assume too much In dividuality. They do not take kindly In dress to tho new thing, though they are ac cused of an over-fondness for newness in many other directions. There Is no great swell to set the style for Americans, and they go much in droves along the lines of common sense. They let the white beaver go because they were tired of It, but some day It will return, just as will pretty nearly all other styles in articles that are worn. Not long ago a man who wished to be perfectly well dressed would not buy a shirt without the collar made onto It unless It were for traveling. Now he Is rather more likely to purchase that sort than the other. He saves himself a lot of bother in so doing, and his laundress also, to say nothing of expense. Nothing Is harder to launder than a shirt with a collar on it. It makes the laundress mad. and she "doesn't do a thing to it," When it re turns to the owner it Is his turn to be mad. Tho shirt is soon in need of repair, and soon again Is worn out. Often, too, though a man may wish to change his shirt, it Is not convenient to do so he has not time, or the' right shirt at hand, but a fresh collar will put him into shape. In either of which cases the "string" collar will be most welcome. By availing himself of the string collar a man may change from a sack coat to a cutaway or a Prince Albert In a hurry, which, likely enough, ho could not do quite satisfactorily otherwise, as he might have on a turn-dowrn collar, and no matter how high the band of a turn-down co'lar. it is nil just the thing with a coat that has a frock. Of course New York is an excep tionally clean city, and It is to some extent owing to this fact that the shirt with the collar to It Is worn here as much as It is. In such towns as Pittsburg and Chicago they are hardly possible unless the man who would be clean is wiling to spend all his time changing shirts, with a bath after each change. In the summer anywhere the shirt with a collar to It Is hardly practica ble, if one exercises even enough for golf. Shlrtmakers, therefore, have studied the convenience of their customers, and are producing collars In wonderful variety which fit quite as nicely as if the two articles were not separate. Standup collars have grown wonderfully, some reaching ac tually 3 3-4 inches, while 2 1-2 to '! 1-S inches are common heights. The high-band turn down collar, with rounded corners and the ends overlapping two Inches in front is the most in vogue at present of all turn down collars. It has not established itself without opposition, however, for It was crit icised and ridiculed at first, being called un duly pious, a night shirt collar and a coachman's collar. Still it was high and firm, a goodly band of white linen, and, above all. something new. So. after an ex istence of two years. It has been accepted. One recommendation for it Is that it is practically unwlltnble. It Is not for wear with a Prince Albert coat, however, nor for Sunday wear. With a cutaway of rough goods In any color but black, or with a sack coat. It is as proper as can be. Although he accepts "string" collars, the well dressed man prefers always that his cuffs bo nttached. The best shlrtmakers say that a cuff hangs better, both round the wrist and in the sleeve of the coat, when It Is made to the shirt. It Is Impos sible, they declare, to make detachable cuffs fit as nicely. Nowadays very few cuffs are cut for other than link stud. The designs of the colored shirts vary little, but at pres ent delicato tolors in blue, pink and brown stripes and checks, quiet in design, are in best taste. There Is a demand for round cornered cuffs. As to scarfs, the flat Ascot holds Its own tied in a medium puff, or the more fluffy "horse show",' puff, or in the rather tight knot with the ends spread over the bosom, or drawn down straight. String ties are broader than last year, and are cut straight. White string ties are now the proper thing whenever full dress suits are worn. The black string tie, despite the fact that It Is English, has lost its hold. Dark puff ties, with a brilliant pin. go best with a Prince Albert coat. On Sundays white ties are preferred by men who take pains to dress well and they are care-ful as to the charac ter of the pin In the Sunday scarf. No horsfshoes, coaching horns, golf clubs or anything "sporty" if they are in town. Brilliant waistcoats are growing fast In favor among men who care for clothes. The fashionable tailors are making from two to three times as many as last year and In more wonderful designs than ever. If possible. The style of cut Is double-breasted this year, the single-breasted fancy waist coat being a back number. It is said that Chicago is abandoning it, and that the only town where the upper ten wear it is Phila delphia. The best liked designs are not elaborate, but what this year's waistcoats lack In spangles they make up In color. Some are flaring crimson, or scarlet, with a scattering of Irregular spots thereon. Others are olive-ground with fine red stripes up and down and cross bright red. iron rust brown, white with fine black stripes, mak ing a checkerboard: green with yellow stripes, brown with diagonal stripes at right angles, one series green, the other red, and white ground with blue checkerboard stripes. These waistcoats are much worn. , but only with frock coats. They are quite out of place otherwise, excepting the reds and brown, for golf and hunting. Apparently there is but one new thing in canes that has met with much favor among men of fashion. This is a smooth polished Penang stick just brought over from Paris, where it has been in great favor. It Is delicate, light and graceful, and yet It has plenty of strength and suggests Paris only in its artistic balance. It is chaste as to ornament, having but two bands of plain silver one at the end of the handle and the other a little below the handle.- If one may say so. It Is a wonderfully well dressed, gentlemanly stick. The swellest walking shoe this season Is what some makers call a "Neat London." This Neat London Is a patent leather but ton shoe of medium weight, writh a kid upper and is made on an English last, with the spring that Is the arch between the heel and the sole a trifle higher than the corresponding English design. The sole extends but little and rests perfectly flat on the ground. Increasing the spring keeps the leather from cracking along the inside of the foot by the constant action when the sole bends in walking. Another shoe almost as well liked is an enameled seal top lace shoe a trifle heavier than the "Neat London." The sole Is as flat and has as little extension. For even ing wear the satin delane-top congress gaiter, a light and gracefully modeled shoe, is in the highest favor. It is half way between the patent leather button shoe and the pump. There Is no change In the style of pumps. Patent leather and Oxford ties, with sole like the "Neat London" In general form, will bo th favorite shoes for warm weather. Patent leather in the evening and Oxford ties during the day. Rubber disks are growing in favor for golfing; soles and aro brought from England. "'ROSES, LILIES, VIOLETST-" Flowers Are the Slost Pleasing Gifts for Eastertide Corsasre Flow ers Preferred. Would you make your sweetheart glad on Easter morn? Then send her a bunch of roses, costly as thy purse can buy, or a modest posy of violets If prudence dic tates the expenuiture! No woman, though she be the wife of a Midas or tho daugh ter of a Croesus, can resist the charm of a cluster of big, fragrant, delicious Amer ican Beauties, and as long as their sweet ness lasts will think gratefully of the giver. Therefore, an Easter offering of long-stemmed roses so long that they must be placed in a jar that stands on the floor, is the correct thing may solve the problem for some swains; while others, of course, may prefer to be more original, and incidentally less lavish. A charming offering is a bunch of sun shiny jonquils, tied with a ribbon of the same color; or. If the romantic lover be lieves that a flower Is soulless unless It be fragrant, then let him send a cluster of spicy carnations In pink and white and red. The beautiful Ascension lilies, which, seem to breath the very spirit of Easter tide, are, of course, always acceptable, and, whenever cut and tied with a white and green ribbon, or blooming in a pot, are sura to be appreciated by the fair re cipient. White and red azaleas are beautiful when in full flower, and last a long time there after, as do also hyacinths and tulips, and any of these are, therefore, a fitting offering. Nothing Is prettier or more subt ly suggests the devotion of the lover than NEW STYLES FOR YACHTING SUITS, a pot of blooming violets! They seem to breathe the very essence of love, and will be sure to please even the most romantlo maiden. But somehow, the up-to-date girl seems to have a particular weakness for flow ers that she can wear, and nothing la prettier than a bunch of violets for that purpose. Go, then, ye sighing swains, to an up-to-date florist and order such an Easter offering for your Phyllis, and be prepared to pay the price thereof with stoicism. You will doubtless ask for a bunch of violets, but the florist. If he knows his business, instead of offering you a round, knobby -bunch of the tiny flowers, with tho stems wrapped in tinfoil, will lure the last dollar from your pocket by presenting; to your delighted eyes what Is known as a corsage de violettes, which is nothing; more or less than an oval-shaped bouquet, soim twelve inches in length, curved to fit the lines of tho human form divine; this up-to-date offering will be daintily packed In a violet-colored pasteboard box, tied with violet-ribbon, and will further be embellished by two long, violet-topped flower-pins and a cobwebby something of the same shade which resembles a hand kerchief, and is designed to protect the wearer's dress from any slight moisture. Os Easter morn this sweet offering will rival milady's pride in her Easter hat, and be sure, whatever else is proudly worn on the after-church parade, nothing will give greater pleasure than the corsage de violettes! DANCING FROCK. Give Eggs to Babies. I have seen a small baby of a few weeks old, to whom all kinds of food was repul sive, take a raw egg and milk with great relish, says the New York World. The egg was first placed in a cup, the "speck" re moved, and then beaten with a fork for a quarter of an hour; then a little hot water and milk were added, with sugar to taste. It will greatly depend on the digestion of the child as to the quantity of water and milk added, and the whole egg must never be given at once, but divided into two meals at least. One egg during the twenty four hours will probably suffice with other foods between. For a delicate child of 2 to C or 7 years old, a properly beaten egg and a little milk is an excellent earlv mum. I ing beverage. sip ffAjJMSMLsMIIMHess. SOFT STUFF. DELICATE SHADE. T"h Combination la Seen. Im Host of the Spring; Froclca Now 'Worn. Very soft materials In wool and In silk make an attractive showing In the displays of new goods. Peau de gant is one wnose very name promises that a dress made from It may fit like a glove. Nun's veiling, lusterless cashmeres and open weaves that are without a trace of wiry stiffness are all to be in vogue, and because the drop skirt is again In fashion. Again we are told to hold up the skirt in a soft bunch, clear of the silken lining, for we still wear silk lining. We cannot get along without the scrunch. In these soft materials we shall choose delicate colors, violet, pale yellow, rose, chartreuse green almost ball colors and of such shades we will make reception, theater and church gowns. In other words, gowns that we are likely to wear on tho street while we go to and re turn from festivities. The same goods creep Indoors, too. One of the softest of the new cashmeres was used for a pretty house dress. Its color was navy blue, and Its taffeta lining was ihat most swagger of shades, orange. The bod Ice was of small plaid silk. In which pale green and blue predominated, and Its short basque was edged with pale chiffon frill ing. The same chiffon was used for yoke, collar and vest, all of which had blue silk lining. The edges that bordered the yoke, as well as the front, were trimmed with blue chiffon puffings, and the epaulettes were of plaited plaid silk. Pale blue bows dotted the front. Royal blue, the shade we used to call mazarine, is to be worn a lot. Royal pur ple, too. Is abundant, and toques of royal purple are worn with anything, just as bunches of violets are worn with any cos tume or are added as a suitable elabora tion of any hat. Purple plumes, bunched softly together, are seen on black hats, and are effective. Royal blue is used In the same way. The attempt to combine the two "royal" shades usually creates a scandalous riot in colors, though occasion ally It Is done successfully. MOVINGPAST AND PRESENT. Modern Progress Has Made Migration a Simple and Pleasant Matter. The time has passed when moving was considered such bedlam, and such chaos that it should be avoided above everything. In those good (?) old times moving day was not a day, but a month. Of course there waa one day on which the bulk of the household goods and gods made their exo dus from the old and their entrance Into the new house, but. preparatory to that, there was wonderful and terrible packing, arranging, sorting, discarding and keeping. to accomplish which the services of the whole family wero from time to time en listed. The amount of work and fussing it took to move a household at the end of a ten years' residence would be enough to make a modern housewife weary unto death at the very thought. After the new house was built and ready for occupation began the great work of getting into it. No member of the family ever went over for a visit to it empty handed. Packing up at the old house, moving and arranging at the new one all went on together until, at tho middle of the domestic revolution, it was hard to say which house the family occupied. All other business or occupation had to be set aside for the momentous one of moving. Thoughts were pinned down to the necessity of remembering Into which particular big box the blankets were put. which one contained the dishes needed first, where the tool box was put and numerous other things, to forget which would entail dire distress and delay. Prob ably seme of the gentle disposition and sweet tempers among the elder generation of our day were acquired by means of the discipline gained in the trials and tribula tions of moving. Certainly It must have been misery long drawn out to have been at sixes and sevens for so long a time. Now the case is quite different, says tho Philadelphia Time3. Like everything else. If moving, after being decided on, is not accomplished and out of the way be fore one can say Jack Robinson, It Is not a moving that does credit to our rapid transit day and generation. A family living In Philadelphia in a well appointed cosy house has to move to Chi cago on account of business interests. First the new home is chosen and the old one put "for sale" Into the hands of the agent, then the family set about to make the best U3e of the few remaining weeks before the move Is necessary. Farewell visits are made and received, last Jaunts to familiar spots are taken and a general valedictory Is expressed all around. There Is time for this, as moving is some weeks ahead. How ever, one morning there comes a fine offer for the house from a man who will take It if he can have it in three day?. Three days, why, certainly, all right, and the ne gotiation is closed. Here Is an opportunity par excellence for the up-to-date moving, and, rest assured. It Is done. In response to a card sent to a well known, reliable moving company, a gentleman arrives on the scene the following morning. He goes quietly and observantly through the house, taking no more time to do It than if he merely wished to be able to recognize the things should he see them again. This done, he states at what hour the next morning he would like to take possession, how long it will take to move and the price. Saying that he hopes the family will give themselves no anxiety or concern what ever, but will leave all in his hands, he bows himself out. Next morning the fam ily have accepted an invitation to go out of town, the mover and his force have taken full possession of the house, and In a few hours, presto! the place is empty. The same dispatch is exercised at the other end of the route. There everything will be put in place, ready for occupancy, even to setting the table and making the beds, if desired. LIGHTING AC0MPLEXI0N. Ways of Tempering the Craclly Searching Rays of Elec tricity. An all-engrossing topic la the lighting of drawing rooms, for women are rapidly becoming disgusted with the electric light, which brings out with such cruel fidelity all bad points as to complexion or coloring, both of themselves and of their gowns. It Is a most serious matter In these days to use any rouge or powder, for, no matter how skillfully It Is put on before leaving home, under the glare of the unshaded electric lights that are to be found in all places of amusement and In most private houses there Is no mistaking the rouge for anything but rouge, -while the ghastly ef fect of the powder is most dispiriting. Even dyed hair gives forth Its secret to any of the bystanders, while as to any made-over gown, the places where the trimming used to be and the seams that had to be let out are placarded as prominently as though, a GOWN FOR EASTER. Made of Gray Bengallne. Trimmed With Green Velvet. large sign were out asking the public to take notice of the fact. The lighting of a dinner table Is a matter even more Important than the choosing of congenial guests. A woman with any tact can find It possible to amuse a very dull man who is put beside her. but she is bound to sink Into a state of utter de pression no matter if the cleverest man in the world sits beside her when she is conscious of a merciless, cold, white top light shining full upon her face, giving her lines and wrinkles in her face and deep hollows in her neck where there should be only bewitching dimples. The new shades of the electric light are made of pink or yellow silk, preferably the latter, and all the lights of a room can be made becoming if they are not placed too high. It Is just now the fash ion to have side lights made In clusters to represent wax candles and the glass bulb containing the electric light is hidden behind the pink shade. This is very be coming and infinitely better even than the gas chandelier. Any light thrown from above will always add years to the age and can never be becoming. An unshaded light also Is bad. The little lamps and candles used on the dinner table must all have shades of fancy design. Some of these are very expensive and all, with the exception of the cut silver ones, lined with silks, are extremely perishable. When there Is a chandelier with a drop light over the center of the table. It Is covered with a large shade, which has long fringe or lace, and this prevents any unbecom ing light. With the rest of the room in comparative darkness and all the light fo cused directly upon the table a most charming effect can always be obtained. Gowns, jewels and complexion show to the greatest possible advantage, while sil ver and glass and l.nen share in the gen eral enchantment. The same dinner serv ed under a chandelier without any shade In a room lighted with high side lights, also unshaded, could never be Imagined to QINQHAM HOUSE DRESS The new ginghams, beautiful In color, design and texture, make charming bouse gowns, which are unllned and constructed In simple fashion, so that they may be eas ily laundered. For morning wear a dainty gingham, In which gray and white and hair lines of red are blended In the popu lar checked effect, has a skirt hung quite full from a plain round yoke and simulat ing a deep Spanish flounce, four and three quarter yards wide at the foot- The yoke, tapering toward the back to meet the gathers of the skirt, is joined on by sev eral rows of shirring. The sailor blouse for which quite a re vival is promised has a deep collar civ- b3 the same as the other, even with tha Identically same people, the same table furnishing and the same food. Drawing; rooms are made most alluring with the daintily tinted lamp shades that are now fashionable. To be sure, there Is a danger of the room being soCark that It Is a little difficult to steer safely between the huge heads or the fur rugs, the bric-a-brac ta bles and numberless chairs; but once at taining to the haven of rest; the general effect is so charmingly becoming and pic turesque that the dangers that have been gone through with are soon forgotten. Evanston Society's Soap Bubble Party From tha Chicago Chronicle. From pipes of clay and of corncob soap bubbles were blown last night by Evanston scciety people who are interested In the forward movement's plan of giving Chica go's waits an outing each summer amid rural scenes and pastures. The affair was called a "soap bubble social." and was given by the members of six of Evanston's largest churches. The affair was simplic ity itself. Equipment was completed by the purchase of a cake of soap and a pipe. A seat at the round table where sat the groups of blowers was the next step in the game. Each participant had to blow In turn, and when the airy bubbles went sail ing merrily in midair the efforts to keep them afloat led to situations and collisions that were often more Intensely amusing than the drollest experiences of childhood days. More than 500 bubles were blown. For Luncheon Relish. Peel the oranges, remove the seeds and slice quite thin with a sharp knife, sprinkle sugar and desiccated cocoanut. or, better still, freshly-grated cocoanut. between the layers an hour or two before using. This car. be served as dessert with cake, or can be used for sauce. FROM HARPER'S BAZAR ln a look of breadth over the sleeves, which are the plainest and smallest of gigots. A graduated ruffle of embroidery In red and white borders the collar, and little tournover cuffs of the same embroid ery finish the sleeves. This effective little gown Is an excellent model for amateur dressmakers to follow, and though extremely simple has a certain distinction, since It admits of a variety of fresh touches In plastrons, chemisettes and belts. The proper cut of the gown can be obtained only from the patterns pub lished by Harper's Bazar, where It ap pears. , Approximate quantity of material t Gins ham, tight yards; embroidery, three yards. i Ul m PS