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Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, February 05, 1899, Image 11

Image and text provided by State Historical Society of Missouri; Columbia, MO

Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn86063615/1899-02-05/ed-1/seq-11/

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PARIS, Jan. 20. Anions the striking
elaborateness of trimming1 which char
acterizes the newest- styles, the few ex
quisitely simple 'models fashioned of some,
rich material by- a master hand are the
more conspicuous by contrast. To be sure
the fit must be Immaculate and the figure
of the wearer must be taken into consid
eration to do full justice to a garment of
.this description, a model of which is illus
trated to-day and which was designed by
Doucet for the prominent actress, lime.
Hejane of the Theater de Vaudeville of
Royal blue velvet forms the close fitting
princesse gown, which closes on the
left side, with two large; buttons of slmill.
The blue velvet sleeves inclose the urn
without a fold or wrinkle from wrist to
shoulder, and the high slightly flaring col
lar of velvet is filled out by pleated ruf
fles of white Hsse, -'which terminate at the
throat under a large bow and ends of the
same material.
On the left side of the chest is placed a
tiny tailor-made pocket for the purpose of
holding the inevitable bouquet of violets
which is now, surrounded by a small ruche
of lace or chiffon, which serves the double
purpose of adding to the appearance of the
violets and of preventing a detrimental
,contact of the flowers with the delicate ma
terial of the garment. A real lace hand
kerchief may be tucked into the little
A Colonial Valentine.
To a Belle In 1770.)
There's not a damsel in ye towns
Bet distanced it completelle
By Polly In her prim cmje gowns
That flu her tonne boo neatlle
1 would I were ye golden plnne
That clasps her frocke securelle,
Soe I ralghte klsse her dimpled chlnns
When downs she lookes demureUe.
Te little raffle at her wriste
Z envie tor Its nearnesse
To her aire hand, which oft hath kissed
Those folds ot puckered sheernesse.
Ana when I see her shy browne eyes
Thro' filmy lashes glsnclnge.
Within my soher Quaker guise
My hearts Is set a-danclnge.
And when upon ye windy square
By hspple chance I meet her
We "thee" and "thou" each other there
(Sure language ne'er was sweeter!)
It I behold her eyelids falle
Beneathe my glances steadie
I cannot help but hope withal.
Sines we are "Friends" alreadla.
Bow orten have I longed to looks
Within ye silken Shaker
That brads above ye slnglnge-book
Of this moste loielle Quaker;
But ah. her pletle reproves
My all-too-srdente passion
I fear sometimes ye Spirit move
In very worldlle fashion.
For In this citle where ye Penn
Above ye sword hath honour,
Te rascals of King George's menne
Had best not gaze upon her:
For tho I am a msnne of peace.
And tho' my nearte is tender.
J'd challenge all ye Colonies
If seed were to defends her.
Soe. Tolly. If I'm moved to-days
By Saints Instead ot Spirit,
To tell my tale to thee, I praye
That thou will deign to hears it;
Tls oulie thst Ealnte ValcnUne
For thee and me discovers
That we should walks as thine and mine
Not friends alone, but lovers.
-Jennie Belts Hartswlck, in Ladles' Home Journal,
Tou can go out with your pocket full of
money ana ccme oacK wiiuoui a. emu
vour hand, done ui In a parcel scarcely
larger than a book, you can carry your
purchase, it win do a ugnt parcel, iw,
unrl 't -will contain one silk Dettlcoat!
What would our foremothers have said
to the silken petticoats of to-day? What
would good grandmother Prlscilla, Alden
have remarked could she have beheld the
ruffled, bclaced absurdities of this year?
f. let now oeaumui tney are: Aiany oi tnem
are trimmed with violets and. above vio
lets, there is a tiny ruffle ending in a rib
bon bow here and there.
Tbe newest silk petticoats have three ruf
fles. There Is the big. handsome outside
ruffle, and then comes the ruffle which holds
It out and keeps it stiff, inside ii the third
ruffle, which is a. strong, durable one to
keep the others from touching the street.
These silk petticoats cost all the way
Illustrated by Felix Fourgergfc
f-jC X X y'y
Princesse Costume designed by Doucet of Paris.
pocket In place of the violets. Our model
is lined throughout with satin of the same
shade as the velvet and a narrow strip
of stiffening is used as an interlining of
the flaring hem and short train. White
glace gloves and patent leather ties are
worn with this gown. But one short cling
ing underskirt of soft silk or satin is worn
to insure the sheathlike effect now so much
The hat is a spring model of black tulle
embroidered with jet. Under the turned-up
brim and on the left side Is fastened a largo
bunch of violets. Loops of royal blue velvet
and black plumes held by a large brass
buckle form the additional garniture.
Velvet as a material of dress is as much
to the fore in evening wear as for street
costumes, as it combines very admirably
with laces or many of the other flimsy
stuffs now so much In vogue. One very suc
cessful evening gown is of pleated rose
chiffon with a princesse overdress of paler
rose velvet. The decollete and sleeveless
bodice of pink chiffon Is made up over two
darker shades of pink chiffon and a still
darker foundation of pink satin, while the
skirt of the same pleated chiffon consists
of three overskirts of rose-colored chiffon
over a lining of satin like that in the bod
Ice, The effect Is charming, and the ap
pearance suggests that of a rose with
shaded petals, which Is further enhanced
by the tight tunle of paler pink velvet cut
a la princesse with a short peasant bodice
above the waistline. A dainty contrast Is
formed by black ostrich plumes arranged
to form a border around the pointed
tunic as well as around the decollete. A
black ostrich tip is combined with a pink
rose and worn as a hair ornament. Long
from H to $100, and you can even get a
wider range of price, for some of the shops
show them at a lower tlgure and thsre Is a
handsome house which exhibits them, at
Women who do not want to be wildly
extravagant are choosing the poplin skirt
In pale shades of blue and gray. They
trim the skirt with silk ruffles, overlaid
with lace, with a cloth ruffle underneath
all. And thus they get tho effect without
tho expense.
Skirts are made of cashmere and of sat
een, but in every case there is the elaborate
trimming around the foot. You cannot trim
a skirt too richly.
Over the elaborate skirt is worn the
plain dress, which must, of course, be held
up to show the petticoat.
Summer is supposed to be the time of tho
fancv skirt, but it flourishes best in win
ter, for then the sidewalks are wet and a
woman has every excuse for lifting her
dress off the street. Instead of making her
petticoat very long she shortens it to tne
ankle and allows her trim boots to bo
It is a noticeable fact that the most elab
orate petticoats are worn with the plain
est gowns, as though a woman tried to
atone for the severe simplicity of her tailor
built dress by her elegant, fancy petticoat.
Above the ruffles there " are tucks, and
some of the skirts show tiny bunches of
violets and small artificial roses set in the
lace ruffles. The lace Is looped with the
violets, which are tied with very small
bows of baby ribbon. Petticoats of this
kind are meant only to be worn in the
bouse, for they would unquestionably be in
poor taste In the street.
What a revolution we have had in petti
coats! What a difference between the
starched white skirts ot our foremothers
and the luxurious swlsh-swish of our silken
petticoats of to-day! And what a revolu
tion it is when my Jady raises her gown
at a muddy crossing and. ruffles of tur
quoise, scarlet, old pink or a brilliant plaid
are seen!
Quite separate is the petticoat worn un
der the house gown. The daintiest affair
was made of white Dresden silk, pow
dered with bunches of delicate pink roses.
The skirt ended with tiny ruchings of pink
chiffon, and below this was a short circular
ruffle of the silk having a sun pleating of
pink taffeta edged with chiffon niching.
An elegant petticoat was of turauoise
blue brocade with satin stripes. The bot
tom of the skirt was cut in squares edged
with fine ruchings of blue moussellne de
snip. These little scuiares were held out
by a ruffle of lace over a sun-pleating of.
blue taneia.
Automobile red was the color of another
skirt. The body of the skirt was or poplin,
embroidered with silk polka dots of the
same color, the puffs and dust ruffle were
of red taffeta and a flounce of black ehan
tillv lace was caught by small bows of auto
mobile red velvet ribbon. AVIth the severest
tailor-made gown of cheviot was worn the
loveliest coral pink taffeta petticoat, with
no trimming except the bias puffing and
hlnolr "iTfr1 p-lnvps rover the hands and
arms. Black satin slippers are worn with
pink silk hosiery.
Velvet is further used In the construc
tion of Independent skirts to be worn with
a brightly colored silk blouse for Indoor
wear or in the capacity of a deml-tollette,
for which purpose the plain limp long
tailed black velvet skirt has entirely dis
placed the satin or silk one.
As the long sleeves of the conventional
gowns have shrunk in size so that nothing
of their former voluminous glory is still
visible, the sleeves of the regular ball
gowns have shrunk to mere nothings; a
band of trimming, heading airy frills a
lace epaulette, boa of ribbon, rosette of vel
vetany of these answer for a sleeve. A
garland of flowers trims one sleeve, falling
loosely over tho waist.
Tulle sleeves and low blouse fronts are
accompanied by a close-fitting back and
rever fronts of satin or silk like the skirt.
The revers are edged or covered with ap
pliques of heavy lace. Many satin or silk
gowns are embroidered directly on the ma
terial as a front panel and vest.
Black velvet ribbon is gaining fresh
laurels, and well deservedly, for not only
do we see It used In every manner and
width by the Parisian milliners, but It
proves a boon to the economical devotee of
fashion, who, by means of narrow black
velvet ribbon arranged to form a, trellis
work over a half-worn moussellne or silk
blouse, sleeves and all, can transform it to
a thing of fashionable beauty, particularly
if the diamond squares thus formed are not
too smpll, and If each Intersection is held
by a spangle of tho smallest of steel
the pinked and sun-pleated ruffles of the
same silk.
Word comes from the South that the
women are forming a league against the
silk petticoat. Whether It Is the "washer
women" who are protesting against the
loss of washing the many white skirts that
the silken one has routed, or whether the
expense of the thing is considered is not
known. Certainly the modish ones are so
elaborately trimmed that buying one or two
comes to quite a pretty penny. But it
jou make one at home be sure to get a
silk design that has no "up and down"
for then you can cut two gores out of one
width as the French petticoats are cut,
and this, of course, is a great saving of
The long shoulder seam is a fait accompli
on gowns of both tailor and dressmaker
build. It extends two inches bevond the
beginning of the shoulder, and Is often
given the appearance of more breadth still
dj a little capiiKe extension wnicn covers
the top cf the sleeve. The puff has en
tirely disappeared, as well as the wrin
kled sleeve, save in an occasional instance
where a soft muslin or chiffon sleeve is
desired for a demi-toiiet. The unlined lace
sleeve is smooth, and in one case was
extremely oldtime looking because of the
fact that the velvet bodice to which It
was attached was high necked and chok
ered with a lace cravat over a silk foun
dation. The unlined sleeves were of black
Chantllly lace, and were finished with lace
flounces, deep and full at the elbows. The
black velvet of the gown formed a polo
naise over black lace flounces, which
showed to the waist line on either side,
diminishing in width, the back and front
breadths of the polonaise quite seperate,
and edged with a black satin ribbon
fringe, each strand of which was tipped
with a cut jet bead, forming the heading
of the fringe. The back of the polonaise
was flat, and formed a long trail over the
flounces, the front of the polonaise reach-,
ing only to the knees. The bodice was a
surplice, the velvet folds displaving- a
gulmpe of unlined black lace cravated with
white lace, the black flounces of the skirt
being over white chiffon.
Moussellne de sole skirts with shirred
ruffle put on in the form of a tunic, and
worn with a guipure coat made long at
the back to meet the ruffles, are one of the
variations in evening dress. Incrustations
of silk of the color of the skirt set in here
and there all over tho coat give a very
novel effect.
To Serve "With Ten.
For informal days at home some dry
sweet is often offered with the thin wafer
that is handed round with the cup of
tea. These sweets may be the Japanese
rice candles, variously flavored; candled
ginger, or some other East Indian confec
tion that Is both dry and sweet and with
a sufficient flavor to be appetizing with
the wafers. Except at-home days, the af
ternoon refreshments offered even in the
most elaborate establishments are light
and simple.
Ilovr a Girl May Acqntre Straight
Shoulders and a Very Grace
ful Walk.
Stooped'shoulders Is one beauty ill that
is wholly unnecessary. Any girl with real
brains and a little energy and will power
can make herself straight and bestow
upon herself a good carriage. It is entire
ly a matter of doing and persevering. Most
of us know remedies for our small failings,
but alas and alack how many of us ap
ply them persistently until a cure is
brought about? Few, indeed, and more's
the pity, says a writer In the Chicago
Times-Herald. ,
When starting the reform always bear
in mind that the chest must be held up
ward ana ouiwaru. wnen tnis is uone it
Is not necessary to keep the shoulders back
In a forced, strained position, and so make
little crowfeet in the back of your gown.
And the benefits of holding the chest thus
are more than one or two, either for that
matter. If practiced continually it will
strengthen the lungs. It will ulso develop
the chest and neck as no masseure of miracle-working
lingers can ever hope to.
Throw open the windows each morning,
and in loose dressing gown expand the
lungs to the very limit. Continue this for
at least five minutes. Walk slowly across
the floor while going through the exercise,
as this helps. It is a fact that these
breathing exercises, if continued for a
year, will develop the chest an inch or
two, and when development once begins
it increases faster than one would imagine.
Incorrect positions during sleep cause
manv stooped shoulders. Tho big, fat,
awful pillow of our grandmother's day is
the worst kind of a horror. No pillow at
all is best, and after one becomes accus
tomed to sleeping that way it will be
found much more restful and altogether
comfortable. The best position for sleep
is to lie face downward, witli the arms
straight at the sides. Of course, I am fully
aware that most women sleep curled up
like little shrimps, but them, they can
change their ways if they will but try.
Tho woman with straight, good shoul
ders never carries her arms heaped full
of bundes, for that draws them forward
and makes them droop. Instead,' the
"budgets" are carried with the arms down
at tho sides. Neither does she clutch the
back of her skirt in that bantamlike fash
ion practiced by the woman of less judg
ment. The back breadths of her new
tailor-made are grasped well down their
length and held up the, few inches that are
really necessary In oriler that they clear
the ground. Hats worn deep over the eyes
are not desirable, this wise woman also
knows, for however tightly they are pinned
to one's back hair, they are mighty likely
to keep one at an uncomfortable slant as
if one were trying to keep up with the
pace of the tip-tilted hat and couldn't.
The plump woman who wears her hose
snnnorters Dinned to the front of her cor
sets seldom knows that the constant pull
ing of the elastics nas a tenaency to maxe
her shoulders droop. Shoes of high heels
and narrow toes are equally bad, for the
wearer is plunged forward in a most un
graceful and line-destroying attitude. The
low-heeled, square-toed shoe that Is now
in vogue is-the thing to wear, and bless
ed be the Lord for at last bringing woman
kind to a rational understanding of what
she should wear on her much-abused little
feet! , , ,
Tailor-made gowns are serviceable as
promoters of good figures, for usuallv.
unless one keens one's shoulders back.
the front of the bodice proceeds to lay
wrinkles in itself and so spoil the good
effect that women love as they do their
pet jelly dishes and their Dresden, tea
cups. Other things to be remembered are:
Always stand on the front or ball of the
foot arid keep the knees straight. Carry
yourself so that a string extended down
ward from your chest would reach tho
floor without touching another part of the
body. Do not push your head forward,
and do not be in a hurry so that you will
waddle along like a little duckling, with
absolutely no grace of carriage. Dress
comfortably; have your clothing well fas
tened, and your gown loose enough to give
your lungs opportunity for the full ex
pansion that, for the sake ot your health,
they should have. Make sofa cushions of
your pillows.'and sleep always face down
ward. Then last, but not least, don't be a
woful lady and amble along in a disconso
late, sloppy-weather fashion that is so ut
terly hopeless that I could never set before
me the awful task of suggesting a rem
edy. One of the secrets of happiness and
success is cheerfulness. Men and women
and even babies like cheerful folk, while
they will race their overshoes off trying to
get away from the unhappy ones of unhap
py tales and many worries. Be cheerful,
my girls, even though the laundress has
washed your best handkerchief Into a real
lace sieve, or the rains and snows of Feb
ruary have descended upon your best
Sundav bonnet and made a pocket edition
of a ragbag thereof.. or even If the gas
range has blown itself and all the kitchen
windows Into the next block. Be cheerful
at all hazards! It pays!
White In to Be n Favorite Color this
Year AdvuntnKcn of the Wah-
able Silk Waists.
The cotton shirt waist lias made Its an
nual appearance. Some say the shirt waist
is especially suited to the needs of the poor
woman, but experience has proved that her
rich sister finds 'just as much use for It.
There is nothing startllngly new about the
first display of.shirt waists. For the most
part they are made of line ginghams and
cheviots in delicate colorings, and are some
what less fancy in design than those of
last year. Most of the materials are striped
either vertically or in Bayadere effect.
White waists promise ,to And even greater
favor than formerly, and some of the shirt
waist girls have already declared their in
tention of wearing no other.
The white waist certainly has some ad
vantages. It does not fade and as a rule
takes starch well, which those made of too
soft gingham refuse to do. On the other
hand, white is not so becoming generally
as some of the soft shades, and it is es
pecially trying in thick cotton goods, such
as are used in the swell waist. Most wom
en who, last season, tried shirt waists made
of washable silk, say that they will never
wear cotton ones again, according to the
New York Sun. The silk waists seem ex
travagant to ' one who looks no further
than first cost, for silk at less than 75 cents
or $1 a yard can not be depended upon to
wash well. But such silk wears at least
three seasons, and does not fade in the
least. Added to this, it has tbe merit of
being soft, cool and becoming, and is to be
had in the most exquisite colorings. The
plain silks make quite dressy waists, while
those that are striped have no end of style.
"Kicking" Worth While.
From the New York Herald.
"Well," said the little woman, "if a wom
an is going to make a success in life she
must do a queer lot of 'hustling.' I know
that Is slang,, but It seems to be really
the only word which fits the case. The way
a woman has to keep on the go all the
time to make a success of any business she
undertakes puts me in mind of a little
story I once heard -about two frogs.
"A farmer carrying his milk to market
one morning stopped at a brook to water
his milk as usual. In dipping up the water
he scooped up two frogs, and into the
milk they went.
"One frog said to the other, 'I am going
to drown. I can not keep myself alive."
'Well. I am not,' replied his companion. '1
am going to kick for all I am worth-!
"When the farmer reached his destination
and the can was opened one poor froggie
was lying deadf at the bottom, but the
other had kicked to such advantage that
ho was quietly sitting on a fair sized lump
of butter. And that Is what I am going
to do. I am not going to give up and
allow myself to drown, but I am going to
kick for all I am worth."
The Storm.
A snow storm Is In the world to-day,
A blustering wind that's cold and wild;
Carrying the snow in every way,
Like a restless and wayward child.
Or shall we say like a stormy life.
Which knows no stay; but turbulent ever.
Seeking calm, but always rite
With mystery from which ttxcannot sever.
Like a wild horse, speeding o'er plain.
Cncurbcd and unrestrained In his beauty:
Feeling his strength, he shakes his mane.
And stamps his hoof, and yields no duty.
Nature has Its fine meaning in each;
Though we may not read its secret at will;
But wc feel Its power, and In thought reach out
To each and say, "Peace, be still."
Alnmnae of Smith College.
Alumnae of Smith college will be interest-1
ed in knowing that a-bit of college history
appears in a little book called "All Glorious
AVithin." The author. Miss Bingham, was
writing a book about King's Daughters''
work, and wanted to show how this work
was carried on In college life. She corre
sponded with a Smith college girl. Miss
Daisy Blalsdell, and incorporated in the
book the doings of King's Daughters at
Smith. The recital is amusing and full of
Interest to Smith college girls in particu
lar, as well as to all King's Daughters.
The college girl heroine has the given
name, Daisy, and is a fine creation. The
book gets its title from Psalms. "The kine'a
J daughter Is all glorious within."
Women With Poor Circulation Are
Very Snaceptibie to Changes
in Temperature.
Women who suffer from bad circulation
can never be perfectly well or good look.
Ing, and the sooner they can cure this
very unpleasant defect the better for them
selves in every way. A bad circulation
makes the person who possesses it very
susceptible to changes of temperature.
In warm weather it produces excessive
perspiration, which is exceedingly weaken
ing. You feel hot in flushes and cannot
take the slightest exertion without suffer
ing from it in every way. 1'our face be
comes red and shiny, and your nose follows
suit In sympathy. You feel averse to any
exertion and get overtired and worn out
with doing hardly anything, and you are
painfully conscious all the time that ou
are looking your. very worst.
In winter time tnlngs are even worse.
You never feel warm, nowever much exer
cise you may take, and even at night you
still feel chilly. You get a red nose and
blue lips whenever you go out Into the
cold and looked pinched and old. You are
liable to coldb and cougns and sore throats
and rheumatism, and even worse than
these, you will get very ugly chilblains,
both on your hands and leet, which are
not only disnguring, but palutul and Irri
tating to the last degree.
You will also sleep badly and eat badly
and lose iiesh rapidly, unless you try by all
the means In your power to improve this
state of things. The sooner you try to
make things change the better it will be,
unless you want to have a great deal of
trouble and time wasted before you see
any result.
indigestion is generally at tho root of a'
bad circulation. So hrst of all the diges
tion must be put into stronger working or
der, and this is only accomplished by the
strictest attention to diet. You must at
once leave off strong tea and only-.drink
it very weak or when half mixed with
milk. Take cocoa instead, which must be
unsweetened and not drank too hot. It is
wisest not to eat or drink between meals.
As to the food, it should be nourishing,
but very plain, consisting of all things
that will give blood and flesh, but which
will not b too rich to disagree or to turn'
acid when taken. The sufferer cannot af
ford to disregard the use of medicine, but
should take some mild aperient several
times a week in the morning or at night.
If, however, the digestion is all right, per
haps the bad circulation arises from lack
of iiesh. In this case eat all kinds of
foods which are the most nourishing.
Sweets should be taken, and sweetened
puddings, sugafed tea and cocoa and plenty
of cream and milk. '
You should eat between your meals, and
eat plenty of bread and potatoes and fari
naceous puddings and drink milk. Ex
ercise must be taken, but never to tire or
too much at a time, and hurry, worry and
excitement must be avoided. Regular
hours, restful sleep, with a sufficiency of
warm though light clothing In winter time,
conduce toward a cure, which is further
assisted by leisurely and carefully arranged
Sufferers from bad circulation should
take a bath of tepid water every morning
in which has been dissolved a little rock
ammonia or instead cloudy ammonia, if
more convenient. This will brace the, skin
and give it tone. The skin should W tvpII
rubbed with, a loofah while it is still wet
till It is red and glowing and feels delight
fully warm and comfortable. Massage
with the fingers is aNo good, but this
should bo done by a second person to be of
much use.
A glass of hot milk at bedtime and be
tween breakfast and lunch in cold weather
Is very beneficial, as also is exercise jvith
dumbbells every night and morning for five
cr ten minutes at a time, and all kinds of
fymnastic exercises. Cycle and walk dally,
ut never do too much at a time or overtiri
yourself, as this will only do more harm
than good. Above all, eat well, sleep well
and do not worry.
Do Glrla Grow Faster Than Boys?
From the New York Herald.
Has the athletic girl to paythe penalty
of her Tondness for outdoor sports by
growing so fast and so much as to end
in the long run by overtopping her broth
ers and sweethearts by a head?
This disparity In height has been noticed
particularly at some recent weddings, ana
a wall comes to us from the young girls
still attending dancing schools that they
as a rule are all tall, while the boys aie
all short, and the consequent awkwardness
resulting has been very unpleasant.
It was certainly with no thought of add
ing to her stature that. In spite of. opposi
tion, the girl took to the wheel and to other
forms of outdoor activity. The fun of the
thing tempted her, and in addition to what
she nought she now finds herself taller
and larger, overtopping not only her moth
er and her aunts, but her sometimes com
petitor, sometimes colleague man as well.
According to a social philosopher, the rem
edy lies with man, who is bidden to regard
the towering girl as a warning to him.
To Renew Yonr Plants.
Now is the time of year when plants
begin to droop and lose their leaves.
Loosen the earth' around the roots once a
week and see that the water goes through
the pot and escapes at the opening at the
bottom. Instead of plugging- up the hole,
take a dull knife and poke it through the
hole to be sure that there is free draft.
House plans suffer from lack of air. Open
the windows frequently and let them
breathe, although be careful that they do
not stand in ,a draft. Plants do well in a
kitchen window becauso of the moist air
that passes through the opening and clos
ing of the door. People can live and thrive
in a smothered atmosphere where plants
would die. Remember that a plant breathes
through its leaves and wet the leaves fre
quently. Teaching Children Good Manners.
From the Ladies' Home Journal.
Good manners can not be learned in a
moment. There are certain forms which
society has agreed people must conform to
if they wish to appear well bred, and these
are often not at all what the natural In
clination would prompt one to do under the
circumstances. Children must be taught
these conventions, and we must not be sur
prised if they are sometimes slow in learn
ing them, nor despair if, after much teach
ing, they at times relapse into native bar
barism. Patient perseverance in training
them will at last produce the desired result.
The constant repetition that seems so Irk
some, combined with the silent force of
daily example, will effect the end in view
a well bred child.
Imitative Woman.
Entertainment managers are unanimous
In declaring that no sooner does a man per
form a new and daring trick of any kind
than they Immediately receive offers from
women to give the same exhibition or out
do It. Nowadays this is the invariable
rule. Strong women, female parachutists,
high divers, lion tamers and quick change
artists have sprung up in the immediate
track of male exponents of these various
forms of variety stage talent. In many
cases the woman has equaled the man and
where skill, neatness and finish are the
chief characteristics of perfect rendering
the fair imitator usually outrivals the orig
inal performer.
Startlntr Chrysanthemum' Growth.
rrom the Ladles Home Journal.
It is a good plan to bring chrysanthe
mums up from the cellar early in the sea
son and let them start Into growth. Give
them plenty of water and light and they
will soon throw up dozens of sprouts all
over the surface of the soil. Cut off the
best of these, with pieces of root attached,
and put them in small pots of lightr ricn
soil. They will grow so rapidly thtt a
shift to a larger pot will bo needed by
April. In this way we get good-sized plants
by the time the florists begin to send out
plants ordered from their spring cata
logues. This is the only way to obtain
large specimens.
The Popular Italian Red.
Italian red, much like the tint of the
heart of a Jacque rose, is a marked favorite
in the brilliant winter list of colors, and
cloth gowns of this becoming shade, with
sable, mink, otter, or foxband collar, and
revers by way of trimming, are considered
among the smartest of the winter styles
for vouthful wearers. At a recent fash
ionable gathering a tall, stately woman,
with snowy hair arranged en pompadour,
was attired in a tailor costume of deep
Italian red broadcloth, trimmed with black
Persian iamb. Her large directolro hat was
laden with drooping sable plumes, and one
could scarcely Imagine a gown more strik
ingly becoming or appropriate.
Lady Cnrson's Teacloth.
A teacloth said to be highly prized by
Lady Curzon has the names of all her
titled London acquaintances embroidered
upon it. It is, of course, of the finest linen,
but is perfectly plain, with a deep hem
stitched border. Her frierfds have written
their names diagonally across the border,
and these she has had embroidered In white
Black Rose Produced.
It is reported that Fetisoff. a Russian
florist, after ten years of toll and thought,
has produced a black rose. He has sent the
czar some specimens, and a beautiful col
lection has been forwarded to London to
be exhibited at the coming annual flower
Some Famous Dishes Prepared by
Well Known Women oi
the South.
Mrs. Dabney Maury's recipe for cucum
ber catsup Five cucumbers peeled and
grated thin: one large tablespoon grated
horseradish; one large white onion grated.
Pour on one pint of strong vinegar, rot
boiled, and cork closely. This Is? especially
appetlzing in winter with cold meats, as it
has the flavor of the fresh cucUmber.
Mrs. Hetty Lilly's recipe for apple pud
dingOne pound apples baked and strain
ed; six ounces of butter added while hot
one-half pound of sugar. The rind and
juice of two lemons. When cold add six;
eggs well beaten. Bake in a rich paste.
Mrs. Roy Mason's whortleberry cake
Six eggs; one pound sugar: three-quarters,
pound butter; one quart flour: one-half pint,
sifted jmeal; one wineglass ot good brandy;,
two tablespoons ot allspice: one teaspooni
soda. Mix all together and then add one
quart of berries well dusted with tlour.
Mix your soda with one-half pint of milk.
Mrs. C. S. Higgins, ot Vicksburr. Miss..
recipe for charlotte russe One-half pint
of milk; tour eggs, yolks; one vanilla bean;
one pound of loaf sugar; one ounce gela
tine; one quart of cream. Boll the bean in
the milk until all the flavor is extracted.
Strain it. and when cold stir in the yolks
of the eggs well beaten, and the sugar
Simmer the custard live minutes; do not let
it boil. Boll the gelatine in one pint ot
water until reduced to one-hair pint. Strain
it into the custard. Stir it hard; let it get
quite cold. Whip cream to a stiff froth
and when the custard is cold, but not con
gealed, stir in thp cream gradually. Place
cake around bowl and pour in your mix
ture. Mrs. Mason's recipe for black bean soup
One pint of black beans: one small onion;
four quarts of water; one small chicken or
half a large one, or else one pound lean
beef: a slice of bacon. When the soup Is
nearly done chop up the meat, which has
been boiled in it. Season with pepper and
salt: make In balls; roll them in white of
egg; dry them pn stove. When the soup is
served strain peas through a colander; add
a wineglass of walnut and one of tomato
catsup, and two wineglasses of sherry.
Put In two hard-boiled eggs and return
meat balls to cup. Slice one-half lemon In
thin slices and place in tureen. Pour soup
Mrs. O. Tayloe's recipe for white cream
Put one quart or cream, or rich milk in a
pan; sweeten to your taste, boil; heat the
whites of ten eggs to a stiff froth; put them,
in the boiling cream: stir for a minute.
Mix a. wineglass of good sherry and it is
done. Pour it in a dish and ornament with
preserved fruit.
Mrs. Tayloes recipe for almond pud
dingBlanch and heat one-half pound of
almonds very line. The rind of a lemon
boiled until tender. Beat with one-halt
pound of sugar. Mix with the almonds
eight eggs: leave out half the whites; one
half pound butter creamed. Bake in rich
Mrs. Mason's Italian-cream Dissolve one
ounce of isinglass in one-half pint water:
strain it and put the juice of 'one and
season with the rind of two lemons and
one wineglass of brandy; whip one quart
of sweetened cream. When the isinglass Is
moderately cool pour In the cream and
whip all togother twenty minutes, then
mold to your fancy.
A Grent Curiosity Which Flsnred In
a London Auctioneer's Cut-
From the Westminster Gazette.
An incident occurred In a London auction
room the other afternoon which Is per
haps without a parallel. The chief item in
a catalogue crowded with curiosities from
all parts of the world was the gold-headed
malacca cane with which the queen was
struck in 'lfCO as she was leaving Cam
bridge house, Piccadilly, after paying a
visit to the late Duchess of Cambridge.
Her majesty was riding in an open landau
on the occasion, and was just passing
through thel gateway when Lieutenant
Robert Pate pressed forward in the crowd
and dealt the queen a heavy blow on the
forehead. The queen, it is said, still bears
a slight mark on the forehead as the re
sult of the outrage, though at the time
she remarked. "I am not hurt." and at
mice commanded the coachman to drive on.
These circumstances Invested the cane a
very ordinary looking article in itself with
an interest out ot all proportion to its
actual value, and the announcement of its
sale attracted a great crowd of lovers ot
the sensational ana tne morula, i nere was
a bitter disaDuointment in store for them.
however, for when the "lot" was reached
J. C. Stevens Intimated that it had been
withdrawn owing to an "unofficial" com
munication from Osborne, It is understood
that the owner had received a private re-
auest from a member of the royal fam
y to withdraw the article from public
sale, and that he felt he had no option
but to take this course in deference to such
a representation. This is the first occasion
probably on which an article has been
removed from an auctioneer's catalogue by
royal wish.
Many ot the Old and Historic Por
traits Withdrawn from the
Public View.
From the Baltimore Sun.
Only a comparatively small section of the
White House is now open to the inspection
of visitors, by an order issued by the presi
dent several weeks ago, and as a result
there is deep disappointment on the part
of the visitors that the red, green and blue
parlors and the corridor, along the sides of
which are portraits of former presidents,
can not be seen. The order was issued to
prevent throngs of people from destroying
the handsome carpets and scattering mud
from their shoes all over the lower sec
tion of the house.
The rooms now closed to public view, ex
cept on the occasion of some of the great
evening receptions, are -the most beautifully
furnished and decorated in the White
House. Before the portraits of former
presidents and their wives became so nu
merous, most of them hung in the East
room, and along the long corridor, but
now that there are portraits of every chief
executive, they are widely scattered and
not confined to one apartment.
Only those In the East room are now
seen by the public generally, and to get a
glimpse of the inner apartments a permit
is first necessary. This is given usually,
however, only to people well known.
The Acquirement of Correct Speech.
Trom the Ladles" Home Journal.
Correct speech is largely a matter of im
itation. If the persons with whom a child
constantly associates speak inelegantly the
child will certainly do likewise. No amount
of Instruction in grammar, the theory of
language, will avail to counteract the de
basing effect of practical tuition In the
wrong direction. There is no suchiword In
the English language as "ain't." Ve may
say "I'm not" because we merely eliminate
the a In am, but "ain't" has no legitimate
progenitor. The home is the true school ot
speech, and the mother the teacher whose
influence will be the most lasting.
To Make Shoes Last.
A hint now how to make satin shoes
last stripe them across with narrow rib
bon of the same color. This prevents the
shoes wearing out at the sides, and the
ribbon can be renewed when it hegins to
wear out nt the sides. Ballet girls even
resort to this plan to make their shoes
last, otherwise they would require a fresh
pair almost every night. The ribbons
must be narrow, of course, and must
match the shoes in every respect. House
shoes may have a little strass ornament
In front, instead or a bow, though a little
bow is more coquettish.
Jfew Msfhtrobes.
NIghtrobes In the trousseaus of spring
brides will, many of them, be made with a
ribbon run in at the waist and the upper
part slightly fitted. The entire front of the
upper part of one Is formed of lace insertion
and tucks with a double ruffle of lace at the
front. The collar of the lace and tucking
turns over and a ribbon to match that at
the waist Is tied under it In a trim little
bow in front. TJnderwaists gathered in at
the waist in the same way have the tucks
'and insertion running ncros and up Into
the'little straps that hold it at the shoul
ders. '
Trlmmlnar Silk Skirts.
The Latest fad for trimming silk skirts is
that of very deep accordion plaited ruf
fles, which are over a half yard deep. They
are pinked on the edge and are caught up
With festoons of very bright ribbons, which
make them very pretty, indeed. If tho
skirt Is faced with some material more
substantial than silk, it will wear for a
long time and the ruffles will be stronger
for being looped up.
Mrs. Solomon Gossoon, the managing
partner of a well known Jewish firm in
Bombay, and president of several compa
nies in which the firm take3 an interest,
haa been proposed for a place In the gov
ernor general's council an astonishing
innovation for India. The proposal comes
from a lending Indian paper. It Is due to
her remarkable business ability, and the
fact that she has made great efforts to
draw together the women of Bombay.
Xew Jersey Mothers Protest Against
the Xeed of a Law to Aid Them
In GovernlnK Children.
From the New York Herald.
Mayor Charles P. Lord has recently, at
his own expense, added a new decoration,
to his office in the city hall. It Is a full
length illustration or a man ot colonial
days, in the dress of the. time, and with,
the, stern features of our uncompromising
forefathers. He is ringing a bell. Beneath
the figure is the quotation, "Curfew shall
not ring to-night."
iXo spirit of admiration for his ancestors
moved the mayor to 'thus adorn his wall.
The design Is to picture his disgust over tho
curfew ordinance recently" passed for tho
village. Many prominent women share his
views on the subject.
Under the new law any boy or girl lesa
than 16 years old who is caught out after
o clock, unless accompanied by parent or,
guardian, or goinjr on an errand, is to be
arrested. If sent on an errand the young
stermusLmake haste and not stop" to play,
otherwise the jail. Parents will also be
punished for; letting their children go In the
street after the prescribed hour, except
under urgent necessity.
The punishment for the child is not mora
than Jo nor more than thirty-days in jail:
for parent or guardian. S10 and a. like term,
of imprisonment- In both cases the term
of Imprisonment Is left to the discretion ot
the mayor. And now the curfewites aro
sorry that tl Is is so. for Mayor Lord 13
outspoken in his hostility to the curfew law
and its advocates foresee light punishment
for Its violators.
"I did not want the law. and neither did
the councilmen." said the mayor to-day.
"but the Woman's Christian Temperance
Union got after them and they yielded."
Mayor Lord is not alone in his opposition
to the measure; Prominent men and wom
en feel as he does regarding It.
Mrs. Garrison, the wife of the Rev. Mr.
S. Olln Garrison, superintendent of tho
New Jersey Training school for feeble)
minded children, said of the curfew ordi
nance: "It will teach children to defy laws, as it
will not be enforced properly. We already
have tco many laws that are dead. In
homes, if parents did not make their chil
dren observe their rules It would demoral
ize the family and weaken the parents au
thority." Mrs. Seaman R. Fowler, wife of former
State Senator Fowler, said:
"This revival of the curfew is a step to
ward the dark ages. It will not be enforc
ed properly, and will work harm Instead of
good. We have too many laws now that
are not enforced."
Mrs. Thomas IT. VInter. the wife of a
wealthy broker, thus expressed herself:
"I don't want in special law enacted to
help me take care of my children."
Both the Rev. Mr. Eli Glfford. pastor ot
the First Methodist Episcopal church of
VIneland. and his wife are-opposed to the
ordinance. Mrs. Glfford saidr
"I believe, as my husband does, that this
curfew ordinance is a step backward, t
have brought up part of my family without
It and can rear the rest wlthout.it."
"I didn't need any curfew for ray chil
dren." said Mrs. W. E. Bates, "and I dop't
think we hav e a rabble of children in Vine
land to be rung In by curfew. Let. the au
thorities enforce what laws we have first."
Mrs. Cuno Becker, wife of Fire Commis
sioner Becker, a member of the board of ,
education, sa'd:
"Days for blue laws haver passed. This
curfew ordinance Is a step backward. It In
terferes with my personal liberties as an
American. As a citizen and taxpayer, my
husband and. consequently, his wife and
children, have a right to walk in tha
streets in the evening If they behave them
selv es;"
Tounsr Man "caused Ills Sweetheart'a
.Arrest on False Charge and
Carried Her Off.
From the Philadelphia Record.
Believing in the. principle that every
thing Is fair In love. Z. D. Grant, ot Rising
Sun, Md., had his sweetheart arrested In
order to outwit an irate guardian and
thereby gain possession ot her. the prin
cipal scene taking place at Squire Thomp
son Hudson's office, at Hopewell, this
county. The young woman was Miss An
nie L. Sidwell. who made her home with,
Farmer AVilson Brown, of- Sylmar, Md..
She and Grant were engaged to be mar
ried. Although Miss Sidwell long ago reached
her majority, when Farmer Brown learned
of the engagement he became exceedingly
irate, and notified Grant that his presence
at his home would no longer be tolerated.
This was a sad blow to the lovers, but they
managed for a time to meet clandestinely
and arrange for the wedding, the bride-to-be
in the meantime purchasing her out
fit. At this Juncture Brown became sus
picious of Annie's actions' and kept a very
close watch upon her. so close, indeed,
that lover and sweetheart were no longer
able to meet at their trysting place. Then
it was that Grant concocted a novel schema
to outwit Brown.
. Repairing to tho office of Magistrate Hud
son, at Hopewell borough, he swore out a
warrant for Annie's arrest on some trivial
charge, and a. couple of hours later she
was driven as a prisoner In charge of a
constable to the magistrate's office, whero
her lover was awaiting her. Just when ev
erything was running smoothly to the re
united pair Firmer Brown appeared upon
the scene.
Grent confusion and excitement ensued,
and Annie made it convenient to drop to
the floor in a swoon. The services of Dr.
Gillespie, ot Oxford, were necessary to re
vive her. but it took so long that Brown
left in disgust, he being no sooner out ot
sight than Annie became her old selt again.
Squire Hudson, theh dismissed the case, and
the last seen of the lovers they were walk
ing joyfully toward Rising Sun.
Put to Death Under the So-Calle
Finest School System In the
Bethlehem was little among the thousands
of Judah, writes Mrs. Lew Wallace In the
Ladles' Home Journal. We are told that
probably not over thirty children feH'under
the order of Herod." The murder of the
Innocents of the nineteenth century is a
march to untimely graves, not by order of
a wrathful king, but under what Is claimed
to be the finest free school system in the
world. Go to any public school and you
will see girls as pallid as day lilies, and
boys with fiat chests and the waxen skin
that has been named the school complex
ion. Every incentive and stimulus is held
out: Dread ot blame, love or praise, prizes,
medals, badges, the coveted flourish In tho
newspapers the strain never slackens
Watch the long lines tiling past, each pupil
carrying books three, four.ftve to be stud
led at night in hot rooms by fierce, sight
destroying lights. Time was when spec
tacles went with age. They are no sign of
age now. Many wear glasses to help eyes
worn prematurely old by night work.
Said a thoughtful father: "My children
have no child life. They are straining up a ,
grade, talking about examinations. When.
is their playtime if not now, and what has
become of the light hearted boys? School
is never out. Even in the fields the but
terfly and the tree toad are turned Into
object lessons, and the grasshopper is torn
to pieces in order to be Instructive. When
I was a boy, and school let out, we were
gay and free. We studied in schooltime.
and in-playtime there was no thought ot
anything but play." I do not undervalue
education: it Is greatly to be desired; but
evereducation is slaying its thousands. The)
burden Is books. The tasks imposed on
the young are fearful. The effort seems
to be to make textbooks as difficult and
complicated as possible, instead of smooth
ing the hill so high and hard to climb.
When Papa's Sick.
When papa's sick, my gcodnes sakes!
Such avful. awful times it makes;.
He speaks in, oh! such loueeome tones
And iriTes such xhasir fcjnd of ftroans.
And rolls his tres and holds his bead.
And makes ma help him up to bed.
While' Sis and Bridget run to heat
Hot water hags to warm his feet;
And I must set the doctor quick '
VVe bare to Jump when papa's sick.
When papa's sick ma has to stand
Right side the bed and hold his hand.
While Sis she ha to fan an fan.
For he sars he's "a dyia" man."
And wsnts the children round him to
Be there when "sufferln" pa gets through;
He says he wants to sar good'trjr
And kiss us all and then he'll die:
Then moans and says his "breathln'a thick."
It's awful sad when papa's sick.
When papa's sick he acts thst way
Until he hears the doctor say;
"You've only- got a cold, you know
You'll be all rlght'n a day or so:'
And then well, say! yon ought, to see.
He's different ai he can be;
And growls end swears fmm noon to night
Just 'cause his dinner ain't tcoked right.
And all he does Is fua and kick .
We're all u-ed up when para's sick.
Joe Lincoln, is the L. A. W. Bul'eUa.
The aged attorney looked keenly at tha
young lawyer. "Do you love my daugh
ter?" be asked. The youngster hesitated.
"Before I give you a direct answer.'ludge,"
he said with much earnestness, "I .want
you to pledge me your word that the In
formation will not be used against me."
Cleveland Plain Dealer.
.--...,1, j5,?M

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