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wwmifwtt(!wMfvwii( "swrtel BxtemmMta .,. I THE KANSAS CITY JOURNAL. SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 1, 1895. n f-y 1 1 . 4 K Jn Too many of our Amcri"an housekeepers buy their store of linen "re'idy made," but of late there has been a marked reaction In favor of hand sewing, which Is supplied by the better class of furnishing stores to those who prefer und aro able to pay for It. The plan of every modern, well built house Includes a linen closet, where the piles of snowy bed and table Until should bo arranged In good order. This linen clos et ought to be In a dry place, and If hot air from whatever heating apparatus used in the dn clllng can bo conducted Into It, so much the better. Thcra will then be no danger of "damp sheets" when a bed Is hurriedly made for pome unexpected guest. For table linen the. material Is usually either single or double damask though plain heavy linen, hemstitched and em broidered, is sometimes chosen for special occasions. At a dinner given In Boston to a bride, a linen table cloth was. embroid ered with the Interlaced Initials of each pair of guests, thus marking tho scats of the company and serving as a memento of tho occasion. Six damask table cloths, with napkins to match, are a sutllclent supply for"trdInary use, as a set of napkins tiwy be allowed to two table cloths, If the tamlly Is small. It these are purchased "ready hemmed," at least let the nicer ones bo hemmed by hand. Instead of hemming In the old-fashioned way, use tho newer stlc, whose ap pearance welt repays the additional trou ble. For this, turn down tho material a quarter of an Inch and then turn it back on tho stuff, maklng.the two edges meet. Baste carefully together, then, holding the single hide of the cloth towards you, tew the odges "over and ocr," as tho children say. When finished take out the bastings, turn the hem thus made upward In the same direction ns It was folded, und it will lie perfectly Hat when ironed, wear well, and havo the proper "up-to-date" effect. Tray cloths nnd carvers' cloths not only look well on the table, but are a genuine having In the wear and tear of frequent washings, ns they catch many a splash of gravy or drop of cott'ee which otherwise would soil tho fair linen table cloth For hey-days and holidays, these may be tm broldered or ornamented with drawn vvoik as elaborately ns the owner desires; but for dally use in plain households tho dam ask ones aro sutllclently nice and can be purchased at the shops. An economical housekeeper who had some flno damask table cloths that were beginning to wear out converted them Into tray cloths by cutting out the best parts, hemming them nnd finishing with toiehon lace. Another suggestion in the line of econo my, born of experience, is that, In purehas ing table linen, the unbleached will prove much more durable, ns the chemicals used to whiten the dnmask injure it in some degree. The faint jellow tint of the ila is not objectionable, nnd a very few visits to the laundry will bleach it snowy white. Buffet cloths, which are included in the list of table linen, are usually made of plain linen, hemstitched nnd decorated with any kind of embroidery that wilt stand washing. A pretty Idea for a room where the colors will haimonlze Is to have the buffet cloth, table center, tray cloth and carver's cloth all of pale pink, blue, ecru linen, em broidered with white. Another point to be lemembered concern ing table cloths Is the ironing The ordi nary laundress is apt to make a cros fold, which mars the smoothness of the linen. 331rect her to fold the cloth lengthwise, and then fold once more only, also lengthwise. The marking of the llnon Is usually done with lndellblo Ink or embroidery, the old fashioned "cross stitch" Is obsolete. Tho former Is sometimes executed by e.xpeits In old English letters or quite elaborate de signs, but the gentlewoman must be content with the name In simple script. If time and fklll permit. It Is worth while to mark handsome cloths nnd nankins with em broidered initials or monogram. A simple f tylo, which looks well for plainer articles, and can be quickly accomplished, Is to outllno pretty letteid in what Is known as "stem ttiicn. Tho mention of this stitch recalls to mind a very pretty table cloth, or rather tamo cover, aesigneu ny a jauy who wanted something which would be inexpensive, dur able nnd attractive to tho eye. Purchasing tin unbleached table cloth, with a pattern in a largo, bold design, she outlined It In Mem btltch with led embroidery cotton. In tho basement dining room, where it was used between the hours of seiving the meals, nnd which, facing northward, was somewhat dark. It lent an additional color und matched tho reds in the carpet and hangings. As some few readers may not know this ditch by name, I will describe the manner of working: Insert tho needle from left to right In a Planting direction, passing It over six or ven horizontal threads and three or four perpendicular ones; then bring up the nee dle to the length of this stitch, half way down Its length, and repeat, Bach stitch must commence half ws.y down the pro ceding one. The number of threads taken will vary according to the fineness of the fabric, but a very little practice, will enable the embroiderer to regulate this. MAltY J. SAFFOHD. belf-prntet tlon, Brooklyn Life! "I see you've Jet yer bull loose in pastuie, Jim! Ain't he a. leetle bit savage?'f "Vou bet, he's a terror, but et's the only way I can keep them dad Basted city folks fiom digging little holes all over my jnedder und playing shlnney inter 'em," Ilia Collection, Indianapolis Journal; "Who are all these?" asked the visitor, "Oh, that album?" said the languid young man; "that Is u collection of photograps of the only gills I ever loved." A HI itter of Bushiest. Bnstnn Home Journal: "I will withdraw my suit," remarked young Jubson. as he counted up his cash und found that it cor jespanded with tho turn on his pawn ticket. SHIELDING A SON. How Mothers Can 3Inko Homo So Attractive ton Boy 'Unit Ifo Will He (Itmrtleil I'rmn Jinny Dingers 'that Brct tllm. So much has been said nbout "The girl who Is out," with information and advice given mothers regarding their budding daughters, that It Is high time a good woid was spoken for the young mnn of the family, the longing ho has for his pilvilegos and possibilities. Mothers and slsteis In the excitement of introducing Miss Bud to soeletv, ale apt to overlook the necessity of providing an attractive homo for the young son and brother. The brother, although rosslbly a year or two the young lady's senior, Is still looked upon ns a mere boy, when tho sister in considered a full-Hedged voting woman, lie Is rather In the way when a coming out tea has to bo given, or the all important subject of the debutante's gown nre discussed, and consequently Is left to his own devices. I.lttle Is done to en tertain or nmuso, and therefore ho seeks pleasure. Not enough Is thought of his entry Into the world. Without the true love of home in his boy heart tho temptations nnd snares with which he Is suiiounded, particularly If he has money, good looks or winning ways, will besot anil take hold of any young fellow. Mothers and sisters are able to guard against this to a great ex tent. If they are willing to take the trouble. First, make home tor your boys the Jol Ilest and best place in nil the world. Give them plenty of love, nfieetlon and sym pathy; boys thrive on these nnd will re pay the sweet, unselll'h ways of mother and sister with chivalrous devotion. I mean the average boy will with a sp-irl: nnd take It quite n.i a. matter of course when he ornaments the wall with bo it models, Indian club", badly stuffed bird nnd snnkekliis Let him follow his own sweet will In arranging the furniture, even though half of It Mis tlprlde down Each eccentricity In your eyes Is merely a mark of boyish Individuality, nnd nftor nil, the object Is to please him and not you, Compliment the tesulti If It appears good, and give him the feminine help that la oft en required to mike things complete, even should It take n few moments nwny from an Interesting book or come Important wnrk. A boy with n room that Is an expreslon of hlmelf Is pretty sure to love It ntul want to spend a large part of his time fonllne nround among his treasure, And last, do lie a little (sparing of the dust brtih, A a rule, the misculltio sex ratln r likes n little pletttresquo illtt here nnd there and It you can discover tho golden menu between downright untidiness and order that In Inquisitive, your boy will be very ginteftit for such dlcernmcnt. Let the mother, nnd sister nlso. know mouth of n housewife's duty to direct a greenhorn. If economy obliges to hire for nnnll wage an Inexperienced mild of nil work, teaching her. If pooslble. how to prepare the simplest food In a wholesome, npprtMmr manner, liven hoisted oxpetl enep nnd large vvnee do not always Insure tempting nnd well cooked viands, but a wle mother and housewife will superin tend thee matters nnd remember the old nduire about the wnv to a man's henrt. And don't forget to be Interested In the sports and nniuemcnts of the boy, not systematically subjecting him to n series nf snubbing whenever he mentions bae or football nnd other outdoor games that wo women orten consider rough and limn teres .tig becnue we do not understand them. The trite, healthy boy nature revels In such sports, and the very splee of dan ger and violent cvrele appeals to their manly temperaments', glve-i them strength of mtfcle ii lid powers of endurance so nerosnrv to tine manhood, Mothers and sisters hoitld love to see sons nnd brothers grow strong In both mind nnd body, and thereby Insuring health nnd strength to the brnln n well ns the limb". Of course I do not tnenn bv this to cultivate useless rlks to both, but tempering trength with wisdom. S. B. HOW. TWO YOUNG MARTYRS, Tin: nr.itoto wivim or umvi:. WATT AMI llrav-n Women, llncli One of Whom IVrlnhed Patiently That Her lliisliinil .Might 1'rimecnto lltidlMtltlird III Inventive, Oenliu. Wo read about the struggle of Invent ors, ntul seldom know of those who have struggled with them. We sympathize with Jiinies Wntt, the Inventor of the steam engine, but how many of ns know of sweet Margaret Miller, who was his early love, nnd the sharer of his Hbois? .lames Walt was n ddleate child, unable to attend school, ntul taught by his mother or his mint lie would sit for nil hour, says tho latter, "Inking oft the lid of the teakettle, and putting It oil, holding now a cup and now a sliver spuon over tho steam, nulling how It tl"rs from the spout, and catching nnd condensing the drops of hot water It falls Into," Me read books of stiem e, nnd had n bench for himself where he made pulleys, pumps, nnd n rude electrical machine. Thee did not bring in moiu y, and ns the family was poor, he hnd to give up his experiments mid go to work. He started out from the little home In tlreenock, Scotland, for l!lngow, nnd found n situa tion with a man who mended spectacles, llddles and fishnets. Finding that ho earned almost nothing, run mii.aiivs iii:aii. The fall hat differs from the summer one In one particular very strongly. Where as, the summer lint hnd to be picturesque or loou all claim to distinction, autumn headgear has to bo merely chic. Broad brims, crowns, of many Indentations nnd the like nro tabooed and tho trim little shapes which are most capable of develop ing into the "chic" benenth a skillful mill iners touches have takm their places, Bows of stiff ribbon, osprey, quills nnd wings are the trimmings most favored for fall wear. They ate Fct upon the hat with n sort of m ithemitienl precision, which Is veiy churnilng when the hat adorns a fresh, oung face, but which is trj Ing in the extreme to worn ones. The tlower garden erfects of the summer are, happily, to disappear. Those fall hats which boast any llowen at all will have them nil of one variety. The warmer col ored blossoms will be popular, such ns nas turtiums and geraniums. Whenever they aie used they nro set In the midst of leaves so that their brilliancy Is toned down some what. Some of the fall hats have et among their ribbon bows bunches of bright col ored berries, which appear at this season of the enr. a spray of barberries, a clus ter of crimson partridge berries, n bunch of the red seed pods, which come upon wild roie bushes In the full, or a few bits of bltteisweet berries are regarded as appro priate, as well as pretty, adornments. A hit suitable for eaily fall wear Is a combination of blown and white. Tho shape Is a somewhat wide brimmed low crowned alpine and the material brown felt. The trimming consists of a low bow of brown ribbon placed exactly In the center of the front, with two white wings and a white osprey rising from It. The rim Is edged with brown silk cord. A low, round cornered walking hat in brown ulinmed with brown ribbon, close balls of biownlsh red ostrich feather nnd a brownish red ospiey Is n pretty piece of fall headgear. Iiiown and yellow and brown and red arc, by the way, two of ft J 111 tA jprftr FT71 MBS. WATT. he went with a friend to London. lie walked the streets, asking fur a place, but nobody wanted a boy. Finally he promised u man $100 for a year, to learn the trade of miking matheinatlc.il lnstiu ments. He lived on $2 a week, earning this pittance by doing odd Jobs In the morn ing befoie his employe! 's shop was opened. Probably the poor father or loving mother managed to help pay this $100. At the end of the year .lames Watt went to Glasgow to open a little shop for him self, If possible, but the other mechanics would not let him trespass upon their ground. A professor In the Glasgow uni versity gave Watt a loom, but he could not sell his Instruments after the- were made, so ho began to mend fiddles, like his first master, though he did not know one note from another. Young and poor, with very little prospect of ever being .ible to mippoit a wife, he fell In love with his cousin. Margaret AII1 jer. She was a cheerful girl, of .a most amiable disposition, nnd believed that the mender of llddles had a future. Watt rsr - zsL.tr i - A -? - i yv J& k4 f J l s fir Wl 4 m lJVf 'A COP.NF.rt OF ON13 BOY'S "DEN.1 of manhood In his nature. Bxccpt the lit- ' the favorite fall combinations. A brown tie courtesies at homo that ho H often hat ablaze with nasturtiums langlng from willing to show outside, but does not con- pale lemon color through glowing ieds and slder necessary to the women of his own i Into rich bi own Is a triumph i of the ; mill family. This nil wrong, and nine cases I luer's skill. Tllil MIULIM-H. out of ten is ithu mother's fault, possibly tho slsteia nre nlso to blame, but you may be buro if tho young man seems rude and discourteous at home his mother fulled of her duty )ti tho beginning. Invite confidence; don't demand It. Ito spect his little secrets and do not act as If you with tjiug to force Into them. Above all things avoid a course of bag ging unless you wish to dilve him 'from home, Va not jomlnd him nt least sixteen times in a minute to bu sure mid mall your letter, although boys aro uadly o nilss in such iualU'13, It is the way of tholr sex and needs careful treatment to cuio befoie it becomes it. life habit. Do not ply your boy with a. multitude of useless questions, asked ill u fussy, Iril tatlug manner peculiar to some woman, who ure good, kind, loving souls, but sadly deficient in that wondeiful und rate virtue, tact. This tactless, fussy manner in itates men of all ages beyond rndutance, causing testy woids, slamming of street dooia and late boms away from home. But nbove all things, cultlvato In your boy a pride In his own snug quarters. Give him a sunny, pleasant room, if possible, when he may enjoy Inviting his friends and have a good time, boy fashion. In tho decorations of hla quarters leavo every de tail to his Individual tastes. Don't thrust curtains, tidies and lambrequins upon him. Highest of all in Leavening Power. Latest U,S, Gov't Report imvmm ipv&e Defeat. Because sho was lonely, and shabby and shy, Nat "mothered" and petted like they, Tho little school gills tossed their heads In the nlr, Barred her out of their games with a cool little Ht.ue And guy little groups whispered, passing her by: "Mary Jauo can't play." As tlmo slipped onward and brought her jeais. Filled with many n. hard working day; The big world scorned her, and pushed her aside, Tho little wee pleasures she yearned for, ilenbd. Till the taunt of her youth ever rang In Iut eai.s: "Muiy Jane can't play," O. Maker of Souls, as the world doth run, Is this always to bo the way Must the wealc jlwuys stand on the brink of despair Must the shabby gieut soul live, with no one to care.' Must it ulwuys be said, of some poor, for lorn one "Miiiy Jane can't play." MWNIB M'WTYBB. An Inventor' Idea. Indianapolis Journal; "Yes," said the In ventor, 'X think I see millions In it, if I can only get the thing to woik." "No doubt," said the doubting friend, "What have you In mind now?" "A scheme for camming cyclones In bi cycle tlies. See? There is jour ideal mo tor at meiely the cost of capture." At Their Q O'clock 'leu. Truth: The daughter of the Revolution "At our last meeting Mrs. Oldlleld told how her great-grandmother sacrlllced tho family pate for the cause." IUDi-wwmi uM..v vo, ,u ;IIU IUUI.I ciuiurcii 1UIU JUS 1UIIIV1 i the Continentals were often hard, pushed bridge. ta flai lead Xftc XJusb; buUeu.'' X EsrliiUtf CnsiWl XflllU MBS. HOWE. 1ml nothing to give her but affection, but she was willing to sliaie his struggles lie took her to ,i small, plain abode and they lived as many otheis do, not know ing what a day would hi Ing forth. Mar garet wotked. and i heered, and prayed and waited. Finally a customer who hnd a flute or .a llddlo mended vv inted nn organ built. Watt, ready lor nn tiling, no matter how dlfllcult, learned the theory of music nnd It said to have made a teuinikablo organ for the times. One of hi friends filked to him about a steam caulage, so Ut began to experi ment with common ti iss vlal.s for loser volis nnd hollow cnii' lor steam pipes, bor i owing a brass syiin,;o for the eyllnder He hired an old eellai and woiked day ami night on his model lor several weeks. He negh eted his fiddle mending, and, as months went bv, bname badly lit debt. He hud no money foi food und no money for tools. Margaret hoped and trusted. Finally an iron dealer was perMi.i led to pay tho ilebts of Watt, and help pei'.et the engine. Wntt went to London for a patent, but everybody was Indllferent. He wrote home to Maig.i ret, quite discouraged but she wrote hick, "1 beg that you will not make jourself un easy, though thlngi should not succeed to your wisn. Jr the t nnum win not do, some thing else will; never despair." Watt came home and for six months worked on his engine, but his model proved a fallute. The friend could old him no longer, nnd as Watt could not let his fam ily starve, he went to surveying, a business he had taken up, like mending llddles, to keep body and soul together. Ho vvaa 3j and the way to success seemed haider thau ever. The privation nnd disappointment had told on tho brave, cheerful vvlto. When Watt was absent on one of his survejing excursions word came to him that Marga ret was dead, Tho young martjr to Inven tion, "the comfort of is life," as he called her, would never cheer or comfoit him any more. Again and again he paused on the tlueshold of his little home, befoie ho had tho courage to breaat the reality. Later ho won fame and wealth and great success, but Margaret died too soon to share them. In Spencer, Mass,, In a family of eight children, Hlins Howe, lame nnd delicate like James Watt, worked with his little brothers and sisters, sticking wire teeth into leather, to make cards for combing cotton. Having heard that there were mills ut Lowell, at Hi years of ago ho went to that city and worked two yeais, when the mill closed und he was thrown out of work. Later he got a position In a machine shop, and when he was si, with an Inventor lu Cornhlll, Boston, ho earned what to him seemed a eiy largo amount, 59 a n eeu. He had already mirrleil a lovely girl, who, though devutcd to him. Utile leallzed what was befoie her. HI& health wai poor, and when they had three children to Buniioit, he was often so weniy that ho said "he Jonced to lie lu bed forever nnd ever," Ho was alwas asking himself how ho could make more money tor those whom ho loved. As I1I3 patient wife sewed, ho wondered If he could not think of some thing that could take stitches faster than the hand. He began to experiment, but he had no money to buy materials. I'eihaps he could earn more If he hud a shop of his own, so he moved his lathe and a few tools into his father's gariet, in Cambridge, Mass. Soon want came, ns It has come bifore into Inventors' homes. Toitunatoly, how ever, au old schoolmate became interested In Howe's work, took the family Into his own home, and gave him his guiret for a workshop, and $5i to experiment with. Thankful that his wife and children would havo enough to eat for a time, joung Howe set to work In earnest, and in six months h id made a crude sewing machine, a foot and u half long, and the same lu height. He carried his machine to Boston, with high hones, but these were soon dis pelled, for while people looked at It, no bis mr"hliii, even If his own rountry did not, Ills brother, taking the machine, went In the steerage to lotidon nnd found n rutin In f'honpldo who would buy It If Hllns would come ncrois the ocean and operate It at n snliry of $1,. n w ek Taking tho steerage nnd ookltig hH own food to s,ive. expense, lllns hastened to Ihiglnnd, nnd niter several tnuttths sent for his family. Finally, vh-n the ma (blue worked well, the Inventor wn not needed. Thern was nothing to do but send the Imor joung wife nnd the children mi 1 k to the charity of the fnther In Cntn bridge. Ullns ptwtied his clothe to ob lulii the money for their pissage, ntul nloiie and lu poverty rem lined In London an 1 began to mnke nnother rnnehlne, He rooked his food, mostly beans, In his little shop, sold the machine which he had spent four months In making, for n, found a place ns cook In the steerage nnd enme ii.ick, neipiess, ami nearly hopeless, to America. When he reached New York he heard that his beloved wife, broken with her trials, was dlng of consumption. He had but t,2 cents In the world, His father sent him $10 nnd with that ho hastened to her bedside. In Cambridge. She gave him words of love nnd cneoutitgement, nnd slid gnod-by forever, lie borrowed a decent suit of clothes to nttend the fu neral, and then went sadly nwny to ft shop nt weekly wages. He had drenms of ItiMiry for his mill, gentle wife. Ills dreams were realized tor him, some yr-ira later, when his Income Horn his sewing machines' was ?2on,riXi 11 venr; lu thlifeeu years ov cr $2,0W.n). But for the lovely wife, nil this came too lite. Like Marga ret Wutt, sho was n nnttyr to Invention. SAUAll K. BO LTO N. DRESS JUGGLERY. A Clever Woman Mini Contrives Sit Ills Hurt 1 11.1111111 s Out of One liuln ItlMl-ll bilk GlIVMl. New York, Sept. 1. The economics- of tho toilet Is n complex question that every woman unswcis more or less satisfactorily accordlm; to her liehfa unit nnrui, tiir.imrii nil the variations of dress, from a calico I kovvii nnu cnecKOit sitiiDoimet to a temper ate selection among the dainties displayed lu the llroadway shops, this month of for eign Importations, But for the woman who has u little money to buy, a little time to scheme, nnd a vast desire to mako always 11 sweet, smart and suitable ap pearance, what shall she do? Let her draw first an Inspiration and lay a lasting cornerstone on which to erect dainty, effective little varieties of toilet by btijlng a good black silk. LNIIXl'llNSlVi: AND HANDSOMC. To begin with, the silk gown needs to bo made of good armuio or peau de solo weave at ll.aj a ard; also, savs tho feminine au thority, who has tried and proved this plan It requires linings at 70 cents a yard. I he skirt ought to be made four and thue qu.irters yurds wide ut the bottom nnd fit the hips snugly, the waist cut absolutely plain, with sltev(s of generous but not extravagant volume, the neck completed with a high, stiff collar band and the skirt so llnlMicd ns to 111 up smoothly over the basque's bottom. With the six .v irds of lining needed nnd twelve j. 11 ds and thiee.qiiaiters of silk such a pattern calls for, the cot of the mateilals can be easllv calculated, adding an Item of $3.:o for the well chosen findings The expense of dieismaklng ought to bo reckoned by the peisonnl skill of the pur chaser, plus the aid of a seamstress In the house for two or three divs. FOlt CALLING AND LUNCHHONS. Here then Is the gown for the statelier enteit.ilnments of the winter, to be worn with a stock and girdle of clear peach skin velvet, nnd a bag tiont, made of pleated black Chilian, spangled over with line green lildescent beads, sewed on by tho m i y. cteX. 7 AlPs. M THE SEW CUnn. THICK ON A lHiUMMIlll IN UKOUOiA 'I bo Hoys lilleil Ills lliind (irennden With i ill lniitlne. From the Atlanta Journal. It was Into the small town of Newnan, several years ago, Just after the Inven tion of chemical hand grenades for ex tinguishing llres, that it joting man stroll ed with a valise full of these globes to sell to the good people of the village. "Yes. Rtr." he tnld tun crowd that gathered around him, "a half a dozen of these will (iut out 11 whole house nlltc The gtundest Invention of the age. In a few moment", gentlemen, I shall get numbers of diy goods boxes, set them nllie, and then show ou the wot kings of the lemnikable A WALKING CURE, Tin: cit.vzt: ron tukadino chicles, AMJI.I.S AN1J .so.UAKi:S. Stella WITH ONE SILK GOWN. I'm nnd Lean, Diiclii'sn nnd Democrat Crowd the Hull of u German l'rofessor, V I111 Walks Out Avvkniirdnens orDU- case IV till i:ni.il Pimlllty. bodv cared to buy. Ho was obliged to give up his experiments and become an engineer 011 the railroad. His health sgaln fall d. Owing his school friend i.-aily .000. out of work und well nigh discouraged, he moved his wife and children into his futher's house in Cam- wearer's nimble lingers. Just in a morn ing and out of piotty bits saved lrom old gowns and bonnets can be put together sutllclent glidles, stocks, tionls, luppeis and collars to give the plain body all the needed decoration for geueial use, while the skirt calls lor no ornamentation, llow evet, here aro planned thiee lull met.i moi nlmses of toilet, wltn the black silk as a foundation that will exalt Its somber simplicity into 11 variety or eiegaiu-e, lil ting a theater puny, gland icceptlon, tea, or wedding bre ikfast. APTUltNOON TUANSFOP.MATION. For the afternoon tea change make a high full stock of whlto satin, then buy 11 piece of white, double width cltirion, ono aid and an eighth long. Turn up u linger deep hem on the chlitou nil about and heiteti bone It down llimly, with split white floss. Just above the he nen boning filll on full a narrow edging of cieam -Valenciennes lace, cut exactly in tho center ot the square a hule lingo enough to slip the head thiough, and let the soft fabrlo fall In airy folds and points from neck to kneea about und over the black silk under dress. AT THE PLAY, Now for tho theater party, the fichu Is In Older and ns tho ehllfon square called lor one dollar and a halt's wouh of goods with ninety cents' worth of lace, the fichu, as shown In tho cut, .needs as much cream India muslin ns ono dollar and eighty cents will buy, with seven yards of lace edging ami ten ot Insetting, costing. In prettily tinted Imitation Brussels, four dollais and lltty edits. The while satin stock should show lace and muslin points under the chlu and at the breast, the tiont lips of tho fichu need to bo caught up with a cluster of loose silk, vuilgated loses or poppleshii nIjAnORATrj IMNNHHS. Liberty silk tissue, In ralllbow-llko tints of vellow', lose und gieep, conies double width nt one dollar and u fraction a yard. Hi yellow or giee-n oyer black, asking 110 other trimmings than its own clone y, shim met Ing folds, one thickness In skllt and looso waist over the black silk gown com noses a costume worthy all. admliatlon. Tho lighter and more airy tlu fold, the more satisfying tho iosult In beauty for everywhere It files put. to show; the clean lilies of the black skirt and body beneath, and lends a delicious youthful graco nnel hlenderiiess to tho wearer's llguie. bieiiaerness FUANCKS HLLHUTON. X.OUISVII.I.U AMI ItErUUN Tin the Big Pour Houte. For the twenty-ninth annual encampmnt of the Grand Army of the ltepubllo, to be held at Louisville, Ky September 11 to U, tho Bis Pour Route will sell tickets to the old veterans and the public, via Indlanapo lis, to Louisville and return, at the short line rates. Solid vestlbuled trains St. Louis and Peoria to Louisville without change. For tickets and full Information uddiess C. W, Gre.n, T. I. w., Kansas City, Mo.; W. VV Snyder. Q. W. A.. St. Louis, or ticket agents of any road lu the West, The Trip of Your Life, Boston and return via the Chicago & Alton railroad and connections. A rail and water trip combined. Tickets on sals August IV to 21 inclusive, good to return until October 6. Cull ut the Junction tick et olllce, or 1033 Union avenue, and get particulars, or write to A. HILTON, f;ner.il Aeent VtLnenirer Ilen.irtmon, ses tos.vjlue. gtJLtousMGUy, Mr - fire extinguisher." Now, Newnan Is fam ed the world over for tho astuteness of its practical Jokers The valise had been left under a tree in the public square while the drummer went for the diy goods boxes. An Idea of genius took possession of some man In the ciovvd. lie vvhis.pt red to a friend, the friend laughed Incontin ently and lan over to the ding stole, com ing back piesently with a four-gallon can of turpentine. The gtemdes wete snateh ed fiom the valise, tun orked, and tilled as last as these wicked men could pour tho tin pontine Into tin m. They had Just completed their task win 11 the exhibitor le turiKd on a. diay piled high with shoe boxes. "Now, gentlemen," ho said with a busy air, "Just be patient and we'll start the cir cus." It vvaa a dlllkult matter for the crowd to bo path nt, but tho exhibitor came to the conclusion that thcie never waH such an luteiested gathering. The boxes weto heaped high, straw was piled nbout thum, and the hand grenade man vvlpul his brow ot the dampness of ardor and touched a match. "No," ho said, "not yet. Walt till she getss a little higher. 1 want to give ou a good test." "Now, look out, everybody!" ho shout ed, Inking up one of tho grenades nnd hurling It Into the midst of the seething Hanus. it struck, broke, and a great llame shot up twenty leet into the nlr, Tliut'j thu way she nets sometimes." said tho tlio extinguisher, "It generally takes thiee or tour." With that he seized a half dozen and hulled them In quick succession Into the lite. Seldom, if ever, was ihero so large and well fed a conflagration. Tho exhibi tor, In frenzy, tluew Ills entire stock into the midst of the boxes, and when ho had completed thu task und stood pale, cha grined and aghast, a great shout went up from the Newunnltes, and one of the best of practical Jokes fur vvhleh the town Is famous had ueen successfully performed, Shortly after this an Interview took place between the driiinrin r and his firm. The diumuier told thu ill m candidly that he did not propose to work for a set of damned rascals; the 111 in told the drummer that ho was a poor fool nnd the drummer took up other lines of goods. ' It was at a pretty luncheon In London that 1 Hist hentd nbout the now walking cure for physical defects," said an Ameri can gill Just homo from 11 tour on the other side. Our hostess had feasted us ioully, but halt a dozen women got up heloio the last course had gone around, sajing that If they were not on time thu ptofcssoi would give their nppolntmenti to pionipter patients, nnd oil they went to their new promenade exercises. Now the professor, one of his most nr dent disciples look iln pains to explain to me, has made a scientific study of our hu man loiin divine, nnd discovered that with women half tho 111 health and all defects lu gait and figure .ulse fiom our talso methods of locomotion. To wiilk proper ly Is to hold and move tho body, he s.is, so that eveiy muscle Is exactly bailment and employed, nnd It Is on this piinciplu ho guaiaiilccH to bring any woman's tlg ure hack Into lines of strength and grace. Women whose unities or knees are bent too far In or out, who hold ono shoulder and consequently one hip higher than the other, whoso necks uie craned foivvard, shoulders bent, spines ever so little dl m 1 glng from thi- pel feet line, or even those who weir out the soles of their shoe-s unevenly, go to him for collection and tinlulng. Ills system Is simple to a degree, and Ills list of aristocratic pupils Is nlieadv, outgrowing the possibility ot his petsoual sm 1 vision. lleforo his modest little houo, down In the very wilds ot Kensington, thele stands all day a long row of the smallest a' 1 luges, and over the floor of his bale" little diawing loom march and counterman h many belles of the season, a tow fat, old ducliescs and small git Is from tho nurs ery. They aro all Heading the mazes of Intilcatc patterns, atari, elides, nngles and squaii s, inarhfcd out on the lloor, that Is eovned with a thin black rubber eaipct. Some of theo pedostrl ins, however, 1110 meielv walking up and down a long stiuig'it llne counting one, two, three nt eei slip, to the tlmo maiked bj a big music box, tinkling out an opeiatlo air in ono corner of the loom. Others go stepping along from Fquaie to squaie, lifting their fi et over blot ks of wood, nil lm It high, set In tin Ir way at tegular Intel vols, nnd here and tbtio are portly mufiuni rating at full spud round tho sixteen points of a huge chalked out stni All this while the piofessor, his big Ger man feet In square-toed. Hat-heeled shoes, and his Houseis cut olf short at the ankles. skips about dlteetlng nnd correcting, und when a pupil's half hour Is up ho gives her a bit of folded paper, on which IS drawn a new diagram, that she must prae tle for two half hours eveiy din at home. Fiom 9 In thu morning until late In tho afternoon groups in the little driwing room arifve and disappear, and tho professor does not lusltate to accept tho most awk ward pupil, In high hopis of turning her out at the end of a ten lesson 1 ourse, n. vision of giacctul eainaKO and pink cheeked health. Ill fitting shoes, lie nys, eareles habits and the fact that the aveiage Hi tie tlultl Is toreetl to walk too e illy, lends to vvomt 11 their unsightly gait, th tt Is not nt nil Im proved b) the awkward heavy skirts and the corsets they are obllgi tl to don, Just at the nge win 11 the niusi ics an stittV-nlng, They thiow the body olf Its cent- r of grav ity, and so out of the line of beuuty und haimony, to restore which ho teaches these processes of self-locomotion, Tho most obstinate ease of pigeon toes he run's, simply by making his pupils take the, longest stildes In walking A badly swayed back girl ho sts to tolling up und down a sicip Incllnt ;lii) of the badly splayed feet goes a-tiptoiliig about a gieat oval, and directly sho iln:I her exact center of gravity, her bonks, llinbs and sinew h will fall into the ules.adjustmcnt naturo meant they should hnvtV-Jind tho profe". or'j mission Is achieved, M1LLICHNT AltHOWPOINT. An Antoinette Wrap. If there Is no now eltess under the sun. Anion's linen cont being worn to-day by women and pantaloons having been totintl from the stone epoch, them ure at least designs that reappear like comets at such long Intervals that they aro new to sumo consecutive genetatluns, Thus It is with a eeitiiiti Muito Antoinette hood, part of .1 Mario Antoinette cloak, that has ap peal oil und seems destined to a career. Not so veiy old 111 its design it is so extremeK- otld and Its career was so shoit lu its day tlllll II ll'llius .11111 III! .HIT I'UUUl ot gin- pi Iso. This hood is exceedingly wide and la hooped 1 omul the opening, and when on the head stands out Ilka an inflated hiilf balloon somewhat flattened on tho top unit tetiviuii a .tutu spue-u on .'nun siue or 1110 face, that mav bu idled with hair or shad ows. Tho width of tills hood leaches out to that of tho vvltlest sleeves ever made. Attached to a long cloak it Is bound to llgure In evening wraps next winter, but foicstnlllmr the time, they ale occasion. 1 11 v seen on hotel piazzas ut night, and madu of taffeta beiuehcil or of satin lined win, cloth: 01,0 or two travelers have worn them coming ftnni Paris to the beach. Tho ef fect Is truly marvelous. nIiriXgtllIgIILKX41!aiIIi;jTTTxTTYyrtTlIglvgltKWlllllJllli'lliiT Iff 18 tt w Rheumatism IS PI5H II APS the cause of more iicuto mtorlng than any other form of dlse.no that human flesh it bclr to. The BI.IIO Tltoroisi: u "llentl hhot" every time ou lthoumatWiu, um will uot only nave you from unity a pain ami aeiie, hut villi also nave jnu many timet, Its price lu moue'j. Never full to give prompt rdlof nnd IiisU a life time. No lucdlelne, no belt nor battery. Wrlto us about your case ami let us ex plain more fully. WltlTH NOW. ELECTROPOISE CO., 317 Ridge Building, Kansas City, Mo, "" " nr """inn