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THE KANSAS CITY JOURNAL. SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 1, 1895.
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Too many of our Amcri"an housekeepers
buy their store of linen "re'idy made," but
of late there has been a marked reaction
In favor of hand sewing, which Is supplied
by the better class of furnishing stores to
those who prefer und aro able to pay for It.
The plan of every modern, well built
house Includes a linen closet, where the
piles of snowy bed and table Until should
bo arranged In good order. This linen clos
et ought to be In a dry place, and If hot
air from whatever heating apparatus used
in the dn clllng can bo conducted Into It,
so much the better. Thcra will then be no
danger of "damp sheets" when a bed Is
hurriedly made for pome unexpected guest.
For table linen the. material Is usually
either single or double damask though
plain heavy linen, hemstitched and em
broidered, is sometimes chosen for special
occasions. At a dinner given In Boston to
a bride, a linen table cloth was. embroid
ered with the Interlaced Initials of each
pair of guests, thus marking tho scats of
the company and serving as a memento of
tho occasion.
Six damask table cloths, with napkins to
match, are a sutllclent supply for"trdInary
use, as a set of napkins tiwy be allowed to
two table cloths, If the tamlly Is small. It
these are purchased "ready hemmed," at
least let the nicer ones bo hemmed by
hand. Instead of hemming In the old-fashioned
way, use tho newer stlc, whose ap
pearance welt repays the additional trou
ble. For this, turn down tho material a
quarter of an Inch and then turn it back
on tho stuff, maklng.the two edges meet.
Baste carefully together, then, holding the
single hide of the cloth towards you, tew
the odges "over and ocr," as tho children
say. When finished take out the bastings,
turn the hem thus made upward In the
same direction ns It was folded, und it will
lie perfectly Hat when ironed, wear well,
and havo the proper "up-to-date" effect.
Tray cloths nnd carvers' cloths not only
look well on the table, but are a genuine
having In the wear and tear of frequent
washings, ns they catch many a splash of
gravy or drop of cott'ee which otherwise
would soil tho fair linen table cloth For
hey-days and holidays, these may be tm
broldered or ornamented with drawn vvoik
as elaborately ns the owner desires; but
for dally use in plain households tho dam
ask ones aro sutllclently nice and can be
purchased at the shops. An economical
housekeeper who had some flno damask
table cloths that were beginning to wear
out converted them Into tray cloths by
cutting out the best parts, hemming them
nnd finishing with toiehon lace.
Another suggestion in the line of econo
my, born of experience, is that, In purehas
ing table linen, the unbleached will prove
much more durable, ns the chemicals used
to whiten the dnmask injure it in some
degree. The faint jellow tint of the ila
is not objectionable, nnd a very few visits
to the laundry will bleach it snowy white.
Buffet cloths, which are included in the
list of table linen, are usually made of
plain linen, hemstitched nnd decorated with
any kind of embroidery that wilt stand
washing.
A pretty Idea for a room where the colors
will haimonlze Is to have the buffet cloth,
table center, tray cloth and carver's cloth
all of pale pink, blue, ecru linen, em
broidered with white.
Another point to be lemembered concern
ing table cloths Is the ironing The ordi
nary laundress is apt to make a cros fold,
which mars the smoothness of the linen.
331rect her to fold the cloth lengthwise, and
then fold once more only, also lengthwise.
The marking of the llnon Is usually done
with lndellblo Ink or embroidery, the old
fashioned "cross stitch" Is obsolete. Tho
former Is sometimes executed by e.xpeits
In old English letters or quite elaborate de
signs, but the gentlewoman must be content
with the name In simple script. If time and
fklll permit. It Is worth while to mark
handsome cloths nnd nankins with em
broidered initials or monogram. A simple
f tylo, which looks well for plainer articles,
and can be quickly accomplished, Is to
outllno pretty letteid in what Is known as
"stem ttiicn.
Tho mention of this stitch recalls to
mind a very pretty table cloth, or rather
tamo cover, aesigneu ny a jauy who wanted
something which would be inexpensive, dur
able nnd attractive to tho eye. Purchasing
tin unbleached table cloth, with a pattern
in a largo, bold design, she outlined It In
Mem btltch with led embroidery cotton.
In tho basement dining room, where it was
used between the hours of seiving the
meals, nnd which, facing northward, was
somewhat dark. It lent an additional color
und matched tho reds in the carpet and
hangings.
As some few readers may not know this
ditch by name, I will describe the manner
of working:
Insert tho needle from left to right In a
Planting direction, passing It over six or
ven horizontal threads and three or four
perpendicular ones; then bring up the nee
dle to the length of this stitch, half way
down Its length, and repeat, Bach stitch
must commence half ws.y down the pro
ceding one. The number of threads taken
will vary according to the fineness of the
fabric, but a very little practice, will enable
the embroiderer to regulate this.
MAltY J. SAFFOHD.
belf-prntet tlon,
Brooklyn Life! "I see you've Jet yer bull
loose in pastuie, Jim! Ain't he a. leetle bit
savage?'f
"Vou bet, he's a terror, but et's the only
way I can keep them dad Basted city
folks fiom digging little holes all over my
jnedder und playing shlnney inter 'em,"
Ilia Collection,
Indianapolis Journal; "Who are all
these?" asked the visitor,
"Oh, that album?" said the languid young
man; "that Is u collection of photograps of
the only gills I ever loved."
A HI itter of Bushiest.
Bnstnn Home Journal: "I will withdraw
my suit," remarked young Jubson. as he
counted up his cash und found that it cor
jespanded with tho turn on his pawn
ticket.
SHIELDING A SON.
How Mothers Can 3Inko Homo So Attractive
ton Boy 'Unit Ifo Will He (Itmrtleil I'rmn
Jinny Dingers 'that Brct tllm.
So much has been said nbout "The girl
who Is out," with information and advice
given mothers regarding their budding
daughters, that It Is high time a good
woid was spoken for the young mnn of
the family, the longing ho has for his
pilvilegos and possibilities.
Mothers and slsteis In the excitement
of introducing Miss Bud to soeletv, ale
apt to overlook the necessity of providing
an attractive homo for the young son and
brother. The brother, although rosslbly a
year or two the young lady's senior, Is
still looked upon ns a mere boy, when tho
sister in considered a full-Hedged voting
woman, lie Is rather In the way when a
coming out tea has to bo given, or the all
important subject of the debutante's gown
nre discussed, and consequently Is left
to his own devices. I.lttle Is done to en
tertain or nmuso, and therefore ho seeks
pleasure. Not enough Is thought of his
entry Into the world.
Without the true love of home in his
boy heart tho temptations nnd snares
with which he Is suiiounded, particularly
If he has money, good looks or winning
ways, will besot anil take hold of any
young fellow. Mothers and sisters are
able to guard against this to a great ex
tent. If they are willing to take the trouble.
First, make home tor your boys the Jol
Ilest and best place in nil the world. Give
them plenty of love, nfieetlon and sym
pathy; boys thrive on these nnd will re
pay the sweet, unselll'h ways of mother
and sister with chivalrous devotion. I
mean the average boy will with a sp-irl:
nnd take It quite n.i a. matter of course
when he ornaments the wall with bo it
models, Indian club", badly stuffed bird
nnd snnkekliis Let him follow his own
sweet will In arranging the furniture, even
though half of It Mis tlprlde down Each
eccentricity In your eyes Is merely a mark
of boyish Individuality, nnd nftor nil, the
object Is to please him and not you,
Compliment the tesulti If It appears good,
and give him the feminine help that la oft
en required to mike things complete, even
should It take n few moments nwny from
an Interesting book or come Important
wnrk.
A boy with n room that Is an expreslon
of hlmelf Is pretty sure to love It ntul
want to spend a large part of his time
fonllne nround among his treasure, And
last, do lie a little (sparing of the dust
brtih, A a rule, the misculltio sex ratln r
likes n little pletttresquo illtt here nnd
there and It you can discover tho golden
menu between downright untidiness and
order that In Inquisitive, your boy will be
very ginteftit for such dlcernmcnt.
Let the mother, nnd sister nlso. know
mouth of n housewife's duty to direct a
greenhorn. If economy obliges to hire for
nnnll wage an Inexperienced mild of nil
work, teaching her. If pooslble. how to
prepare the simplest food In a wholesome,
npprtMmr manner, liven hoisted oxpetl
enep nnd large vvnee do not always Insure
tempting nnd well cooked viands, but a
wle mother and housewife will superin
tend thee matters nnd remember the old
nduire about the wnv to a man's henrt.
And don't forget to be Interested In the
sports and nniuemcnts of the boy, not
systematically subjecting him to n series
nf snubbing whenever he mentions bae
or football nnd other outdoor games that
wo women orten consider rough and limn
teres .tig becnue we do not understand
them. The trite, healthy boy nature revels
In such sports, and the very splee of dan
ger and violent cvrele appeals to their
manly temperaments', glve-i them strength
of mtfcle ii lid powers of endurance so
nerosnrv to tine manhood, Mothers and
sisters hoitld love to see sons nnd brothers
grow strong In both mind nnd body, and
thereby Insuring health nnd strength to
the brnln n well ns the limb". Of course
I do not tnenn bv this to cultivate useless
rlks to both, but tempering trength with
wisdom. S. B. HOW.
TWO YOUNG MARTYRS,
Tin: nr.itoto wivim or
umvi:.
WATT AMI
llrav-n Women, llncli One of Whom IVrlnhed
Patiently That Her lliisliinil .Might
1'rimecnto lltidlMtltlird III
Inventive, Oenliu.
Wo read about the struggle of Invent
ors, ntul seldom know of those who have
struggled with them. We sympathize
with Jiinies Wntt, the Inventor of the
steam engine, but how many of ns know
of sweet Margaret Miller, who was his
early love, nnd the sharer of his Hbois?
.lames Walt was n ddleate child, unable
to attend school, ntul taught by his mother
or his mint lie would sit for nil hour,
says tho latter, "Inking oft the lid of the
teakettle, and putting It oil, holding now
a cup and now a sliver spuon over tho
steam, nulling how It tl"rs from the
spout, and catching nnd condensing the
drops of hot water It falls Into,"
Me read books of stiem e, nnd had n
bench for himself where he made pulleys,
pumps, nnd n rude electrical machine.
Thee did not bring in moiu y, and ns the
family was poor, he hnd to give up his
experiments mid go to work. He started
out from the little home In tlreenock,
Scotland, for l!lngow, nnd found n situa
tion with a man who mended spectacles,
llddles and fishnets.
Finding that ho earned almost nothing,
run mii.aiivs iii:aii.
The fall hat differs from the summer
one In one particular very strongly. Where
as, the summer lint hnd to be picturesque
or loou all claim to distinction, autumn
headgear has to bo merely chic. Broad
brims, crowns, of many Indentations nnd
the like nro tabooed and tho trim little
shapes which are most capable of develop
ing into the "chic" benenth a skillful mill
iners touches have takm their places,
Bows of stiff ribbon, osprey, quills nnd
wings are the trimmings most favored for
fall wear. They ate Fct upon the hat with
n sort of m ithemitienl precision, which Is
veiy churnilng when the hat adorns a
fresh, oung face, but which is trj Ing in
the extreme to worn ones.
The tlower garden erfects of the summer
are, happily, to disappear. Those fall hats
which boast any llowen at all will have
them nil of one variety. The warmer col
ored blossoms will be popular, such ns nas
turtiums and geraniums. Whenever they
aie used they nro set In the midst of leaves
so that their brilliancy Is toned down some
what. Some of the fall hats have et among
their ribbon bows bunches of bright col
ored berries, which appear at this season
of the enr. a spray of barberries, a clus
ter of crimson partridge berries, n bunch
of the red seed pods, which come upon wild
roie bushes In the full, or a few bits of
bltteisweet berries are regarded as appro
priate, as well as pretty, adornments.
A hit suitable for eaily fall wear Is a
combination of blown and white. Tho
shape Is a somewhat wide brimmed
low crowned alpine and the material
brown felt. The trimming consists of a
low bow of brown ribbon placed exactly
In the center of the front, with two white
wings and a white osprey rising from It.
The rim Is edged with brown silk cord.
A low, round cornered walking hat in
brown ulinmed with brown ribbon, close
balls of biownlsh red ostrich feather nnd
a brownish red ospiey Is n pretty piece of
fall headgear. Iiiown and yellow and
brown and red arc, by the way, two of
ft J 111 tA
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FT71
MBS. WATT.
he went with a friend to London. lie
walked the streets, asking fur a place,
but nobody wanted a boy. Finally he
promised u man $100 for a year, to learn
the trade of miking matheinatlc.il lnstiu
ments. He lived on $2 a week, earning this
pittance by doing odd Jobs In the morn
ing befoie his employe! 's shop was opened.
Probably the poor father or loving mother
managed to help pay this $100.
At the end of the year .lames Watt went
to Glasgow to open a little shop for him
self, If possible, but the other mechanics
would not let him trespass upon their
ground. A professor In the Glasgow uni
versity gave Watt a loom, but he could
not sell his Instruments after the- were
made, so ho began to mend fiddles, like
his first master, though he did not know
one note from another.
Young and poor, with very little prospect
of ever being .ible to mippoit a wife, he
fell In love with his cousin. Margaret AII1
jer. She was a cheerful girl, of .a most
amiable disposition, nnd believed that the
mender of llddles had a future. Watt
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'A COP.NF.rt OF ON13 BOY'S "DEN.1
of manhood In his nature. Bxccpt the lit- ' the favorite fall combinations. A brown
tie courtesies at homo that ho H often hat ablaze with nasturtiums langlng from
willing to show outside, but does not con- pale lemon color through glowing ieds and
slder necessary to the women of his own i Into rich bi own Is a triumph i of the ; mill
family. This nil wrong, and nine cases I luer's skill. Tllil MIULIM-H.
out of ten is ithu mother's fault, possibly
tho slsteia nre nlso to blame, but you
may be buro if tho young man seems rude
and discourteous at home his mother
fulled of her duty )ti tho beginning.
Invite confidence; don't demand It. Ito
spect his little secrets and do not act as
If you with tjiug to force Into them.
Above all things avoid a course of bag
ging unless you wish to dilve him 'from
home,
Va not jomlnd him nt least sixteen
times in a minute to bu sure mid mall
your letter, although boys aro uadly o
nilss in such iualU'13, It is the way of
tholr sex and needs careful treatment to
cuio befoie it becomes it. life habit.
Do not ply your boy with a. multitude of
useless questions, asked ill u fussy, Iril
tatlug manner peculiar to some woman,
who ure good, kind, loving souls, but sadly
deficient in that wondeiful und rate virtue,
tact. This tactless, fussy manner in itates
men of all ages beyond rndutance, causing
testy woids, slamming of street dooia and
late boms away from home.
But nbove all things, cultlvato In your
boy a pride In his own snug quarters. Give
him a sunny, pleasant room, if possible,
when he may enjoy Inviting his friends
and have a good time, boy fashion. In tho
decorations of hla quarters leavo every de
tail to his Individual tastes. Don't thrust
curtains, tidies and lambrequins upon him.
Highest of all in Leavening Power. Latest U,S, Gov't Report
imvmm ipv&e
Defeat.
Because sho was lonely, and shabby and
shy,
Nat "mothered" and petted like they,
Tho little school gills tossed their heads In
the nlr,
Barred her out of their games with a cool
little Ht.ue
And guy little groups whispered, passing
her by:
"Mary Jauo can't play."
As tlmo slipped onward and brought her
jeais.
Filled with many n. hard working day;
The big world scorned her, and pushed
her aside,
Tho little wee pleasures she yearned for,
ilenbd.
Till the taunt of her youth ever rang In
Iut eai.s:
"Muiy Jane can't play,"
O. Maker of Souls, as the world doth run,
Is this always to bo the way
Must the wealc jlwuys stand on the brink
of despair
Must the shabby gieut soul live, with no
one to care.'
Must it ulwuys be said, of some poor, for
lorn one
"Miiiy Jane can't play."
MWNIB M'WTYBB.
An Inventor' Idea.
Indianapolis Journal; "Yes," said the In
ventor, 'X think I see millions In it, if I
can only get the thing to woik."
"No doubt," said the doubting friend,
"What have you In mind now?"
"A scheme for camming cyclones In bi
cycle tlies. See? There is jour ideal mo
tor at meiely the cost of capture."
At Their Q O'clock 'leu.
Truth: The daughter of the Revolution
"At our last meeting Mrs. Oldlleld told how
her great-grandmother sacrlllced tho family
pate for the cause."
IUDi-wwmi uM..v vo, ,u ;IIU IUUI.I ciuiurcii 1UIU JUS 1UIIIV1 i
the Continentals were often hard, pushed bridge.
ta flai lead Xftc XJusb; buUeu.'' X EsrliiUtf CnsiWl XflllU
MBS. HOWE.
1ml nothing to give her but affection, but
she was willing to sliaie his struggles
lie took her to ,i small, plain abode and
they lived as many otheis do, not know
ing what a day would hi Ing forth. Mar
garet wotked. and i heered, and prayed
and waited.
Finally a customer who hnd a flute or
.a llddlo mended vv inted nn organ built.
Watt, ready lor nn tiling, no matter how
dlfllcult, learned the theory of music nnd
It said to have made a teuinikablo organ
for the times.
One of hi friends filked to him about a
steam caulage, so Ut began to experi
ment with common ti iss vlal.s for loser
volis nnd hollow cnii' lor steam pipes, bor
i owing a brass syiin,;o for the eyllnder
He hired an old eellai and woiked day ami
night on his model lor several weeks. He
negh eted his fiddle mending, and, as
months went bv, bname badly lit debt.
He hud no money foi food und no money
for tools.
Margaret hoped and trusted. Finally an
iron dealer was perMi.i led to pay tho ilebts
of Watt, and help pei'.et the engine. Wntt
went to London for a patent, but everybody
was Indllferent. He wrote home to Maig.i
ret, quite discouraged but she wrote hick,
"1 beg that you will not make jourself un
easy, though thlngi should not succeed to
your wisn. Jr the t nnum win not do, some
thing else will; never despair."
Watt came home and for six months
worked on his engine, but his model proved
a fallute. The friend could old him no
longer, nnd as Watt could not let his fam
ily starve, he went to surveying, a business
he had taken up, like mending llddles, to
keep body and soul together. Ho vvaa 3j
and the way to success seemed haider thau
ever.
The privation nnd disappointment had
told on tho brave, cheerful vvlto. When
Watt was absent on one of his survejing
excursions word came to him that Marga
ret was dead, Tho young martjr to Inven
tion, "the comfort of is life," as he called
her, would never cheer or comfoit him any
more. Again and again he paused on the
tlueshold of his little home, befoie ho had
tho courage to breaat the reality. Later ho
won fame and wealth and great success,
but Margaret died too soon to share them.
In Spencer, Mass,, In a family of eight
children, Hlins Howe, lame nnd delicate
like James Watt, worked with his little
brothers and sisters, sticking wire teeth
into leather, to make cards for combing
cotton. Having heard that there were
mills ut Lowell, at Hi years of ago ho
went to that city and worked two yeais,
when the mill closed und he was thrown out
of work.
Later he got a position In a machine
shop, and when he was si, with an Inventor
lu Cornhlll, Boston, ho earned what to
him seemed a eiy largo amount, 59 a
n eeu.
He had already mirrleil a lovely girl,
who, though devutcd to him. Utile leallzed
what was befoie her. HI& health wai
poor, and when they had three children to
Buniioit, he was often so weniy that ho
said "he Jonced to lie lu bed forever nnd
ever,"
Ho was alwas asking himself how ho
could make more money tor those whom
ho loved. As I1I3 patient wife sewed, ho
wondered If he could not think of some
thing that could take stitches faster than
the hand.
He began to experiment, but he had no
money to buy materials. I'eihaps he could
earn more If he hud a shop of his own,
so he moved his lathe and a few tools into
his father's gariet, in Cambridge, Mass.
Soon want came, ns It has come bifore
into Inventors' homes. Toitunatoly, how
ever, au old schoolmate became interested
In Howe's work, took the family Into his
own home, and gave him his guiret for a
workshop, and $5i to experiment with.
Thankful that his wife and children would
havo enough to eat for a time, joung
Howe set to work In earnest, and in six
months h id made a crude sewing machine,
a foot and u half long, and the same lu
height. He carried his machine to Boston,
with high hones, but these were soon dis
pelled, for while people looked at It, no
bis mr"hliii, even If his own rountry did
not, Ills brother, taking the machine,
went In the steerage to lotidon nnd found
n rutin In f'honpldo who would buy It If
Hllns would come ncrois the ocean and
operate It at n snliry of $1,. n w ek
Taking tho steerage nnd ookltig hH own
food to s,ive. expense, lllns hastened to
Ihiglnnd, nnd niter several tnuttths sent
for his family. Finally, vh-n the ma
(blue worked well, the Inventor wn not
needed. Thern was nothing to do but
send the Imor joung wife nnd the children
mi 1 k to the charity of the fnther In Cntn
bridge. Ullns ptwtied his clothe to ob
lulii the money for their pissage, ntul
nloiie and lu poverty rem lined In London
an 1 began to mnke nnother rnnehlne,
He rooked his food, mostly beans, In his
little shop, sold the machine which he
had spent four months In making, for n,
found a place ns cook In the steerage nnd
enme ii.ick, neipiess, ami nearly hopeless,
to America.
When he reached New York he heard
that his beloved wife, broken with her
trials, was dlng of consumption. He had
but t,2 cents In the world, His father
sent him $10 nnd with that ho hastened
to her bedside. In Cambridge. She gave
him words of love nnd cneoutitgement,
nnd slid gnod-by forever, lie borrowed
a decent suit of clothes to nttend the fu
neral, and then went sadly nwny to ft
shop nt weekly wages. He had drenms
of ItiMiry for his mill, gentle wife. Ills
dreams were realized tor him, some yr-ira
later, when his Income Horn his sewing
machines' was ?2on,riXi 11 venr; lu thlifeeu
years ov cr $2,0W.n). But for the lovely
wife, nil this came too lite. Like Marga
ret Wutt, sho was n nnttyr to Invention.
SAUAll K. BO LTO N.
DRESS JUGGLERY.
A Clever Woman Mini Contrives Sit Ills
Hurt 1 11.1111111 s Out of One liuln
ItlMl-ll bilk GlIVMl.
New York, Sept. 1. The economics- of
tho toilet Is n complex question that every
woman unswcis more or less satisfactorily
accordlm; to her liehfa unit nnrui, tiir.imrii
nil the variations of dress, from a calico I
kovvii nnu cnecKOit sitiiDoimet to a temper
ate selection among the dainties displayed
lu the llroadway shops, this month of for
eign Importations, But for the woman
who has u little money to buy, a little
time to scheme, nnd a vast desire to mako
always 11 sweet, smart and suitable ap
pearance, what shall she do?
Let her draw first an Inspiration and lay
a lasting cornerstone on which to erect
dainty, effective little varieties of toilet by
btijlng a good black silk.
LNIIXl'llNSlVi: AND HANDSOMC.
To begin with, the silk gown needs to bo
made of good armuio or peau de solo weave
at ll.aj a ard; also, savs tho feminine au
thority, who has tried and proved this
plan It requires linings at 70 cents a yard.
I he skirt ought to be made four and thue
qu.irters yurds wide ut the bottom nnd fit
the hips snugly, the waist cut absolutely
plain, with sltev(s of generous but not
extravagant volume, the neck completed
with a high, stiff collar band and the skirt
so llnlMicd ns to 111 up smoothly over the
basque's bottom.
With the six .v irds of lining needed nnd
twelve j. 11 ds and thiee.qiiaiters of silk
such a pattern calls for, the cot of the
mateilals can be easllv calculated, adding
an Item of $3.:o for the well chosen findings
The expense of dieismaklng ought to bo
reckoned by the peisonnl skill of the pur
chaser, plus the aid of a seamstress In
the house for two or three divs.
FOlt CALLING AND LUNCHHONS.
Here then Is the gown for the statelier
enteit.ilnments of the winter, to be worn
with a stock and girdle of clear peach skin
velvet, nnd a bag tiont, made of pleated
black Chilian, spangled over with line
green lildescent beads, sewed on by tho
m
i y.
cteX.
7
AlPs. M
THE SEW CUnn.
THICK ON A lHiUMMIlll IN UKOUOiA
'I bo Hoys lilleil Ills lliind (irennden With
i ill lniitlne.
From the Atlanta Journal.
It was Into the small town of Newnan,
several years ago, Just after the Inven
tion of chemical hand grenades for ex
tinguishing llres, that it joting man stroll
ed with a valise full of these globes to
sell to the good people of the village.
"Yes. Rtr." he tnld tun crowd that
gathered around him, "a half a dozen of
these will (iut out 11 whole house nlltc The
gtundest Invention of the age. In a few
moment", gentlemen, I shall get numbers
of diy goods boxes, set them nllie, and then
show ou the wot kings of the lemnikable
A WALKING CURE,
Tin: cit.vzt: ron tukadino chicles,
AMJI.I.S AN1J .so.UAKi:S.
Stella
WITH ONE SILK GOWN.
I'm nnd Lean, Diiclii'sn nnd Democrat
Crowd the Hull of u German l'rofessor,
V I111 Walks Out Avvkniirdnens orDU-
case IV till i:ni.il Pimlllty.
bodv cared to buy.
Ho was obliged to give up his experiments
and become an engineer 011 the railroad.
His health sgaln fall d. Owing his school
friend i.-aily .000. out of work und well
nigh discouraged, he moved his wife and
children into his futher's house in Cam-
wearer's nimble lingers. Just in a morn
ing and out of piotty bits saved lrom old
gowns and bonnets can be put together
sutllclent glidles, stocks, tionls, luppeis
and collars to give the plain body all the
needed decoration for geueial use, while
the skirt calls lor no ornamentation, llow
evet, here aro planned thiee lull met.i
moi nlmses of toilet, wltn the black silk
as a foundation that will exalt Its somber
simplicity into 11 variety or eiegaiu-e, lil
ting a theater puny, gland icceptlon, tea,
or wedding bre ikfast.
APTUltNOON TUANSFOP.MATION.
For the afternoon tea change make a
high full stock of whlto satin, then buy 11
piece of white, double width cltirion, ono
aid and an eighth long. Turn up u linger
deep hem on the chlitou nil about and
heiteti bone It down llimly, with split
white floss. Just above the he nen boning
filll on full a narrow edging of cieam -Valenciennes
lace, cut exactly in tho center
ot the square a hule lingo enough to slip
the head thiough, and let the soft fabrlo
fall In airy folds and points from neck to
kneea about und over the black silk under
dress.
AT THE PLAY,
Now for tho theater party, the fichu Is
In Older and ns tho ehllfon square called
lor one dollar and a halt's wouh of goods
with ninety cents' worth of lace, the fichu,
as shown In tho cut, .needs as much cream
India muslin ns ono dollar and eighty cents
will buy, with seven yards of lace edging
ami ten ot Insetting, costing. In prettily
tinted Imitation Brussels, four dollais and
lltty edits. The while satin stock should
show lace and muslin points under the
chlu and at the breast, the tiont lips of
tho fichu need to bo caught up with a
cluster of loose silk, vuilgated loses or
poppleshii nIjAnORATrj IMNNHHS.
Liberty silk tissue, In ralllbow-llko tints
of vellow', lose und gieep, conies double
width nt one dollar and u fraction a yard.
Hi yellow or giee-n oyer black, asking 110
other trimmings than its own clone y, shim
met Ing folds, one thickness In skllt and
looso waist over the black silk gown com
noses a costume worthy all. admliatlon.
Tho lighter and more airy tlu fold, the
more satisfying tho iosult In beauty for
everywhere It files put. to show; the clean
lilies of the black skirt and body beneath,
and lends a delicious youthful graco nnel
hlenderiiess to tho wearer's llguie.
bieiiaerness FUANCKS HLLHUTON.
X.OUISVII.I.U AMI ItErUUN
Tin the Big Pour Houte.
For the twenty-ninth annual encampmnt
of the Grand Army of the ltepubllo, to be
held at Louisville, Ky September 11 to U,
tho Bis Pour Route will sell tickets to the
old veterans and the public, via Indlanapo
lis, to Louisville and return, at the short
line rates. Solid vestlbuled trains St. Louis
and Peoria to Louisville without change.
For tickets and full Information uddiess
C. W, Gre.n, T. I. w., Kansas City, Mo.;
W. VV Snyder. Q. W. A.. St. Louis, or ticket
agents of any road lu the West,
The Trip of Your Life,
Boston and return via the Chicago &
Alton railroad and connections. A rail and
water trip combined. Tickets on sals
August IV to 21 inclusive, good to return
until October 6. Cull ut the Junction tick
et olllce, or 1033 Union avenue, and get
particulars, or write to A. HILTON,
f;ner.il Aeent VtLnenirer Ilen.irtmon,
ses tos.vjlue. gtJLtousMGUy, Mr -
fire extinguisher." Now, Newnan Is fam
ed the world over for tho astuteness of its
practical Jokers The valise had been left
under a tree in the public square while
the drummer went for the diy goods
boxes. An Idea of genius took possession
of some man In the ciovvd. lie vvhis.pt red
to a friend, the friend laughed Incontin
ently and lan over to the ding stole, com
ing back piesently with a four-gallon can
of turpentine. The gtemdes wete snateh
ed fiom the valise, tun orked, and tilled
as last as these wicked men could pour
tho tin pontine Into tin m. They had Just
completed their task win 11 the exhibitor le
turiKd on a. diay piled high with shoe
boxes.
"Now, gentlemen," ho said with a busy
air, "Just be patient and we'll start the cir
cus." It vvaa a dlllkult matter for the
crowd to bo path nt, but tho exhibitor
came to the conclusion that thcie never
waH such an luteiested gathering.
The boxes weto heaped high, straw was
piled nbout thum, and the hand grenade
man vvlpul his brow ot the dampness of
ardor and touched a match.
"No," ho said, "not yet. Walt till she
getss a little higher. 1 want to give ou a
good test."
"Now, look out, everybody!" ho shout
ed, Inking up one of tho grenades nnd
hurling It Into the midst of the seething
Hanus. it struck, broke, and a great llame
shot up twenty leet into the nlr,
Tliut'j thu way she nets sometimes."
said tho tlio extinguisher, "It generally
takes thiee or tour."
With that he seized a half dozen and
hulled them In quick succession Into the
lite. Seldom, if ever, was ihero so large
and well fed a conflagration. Tho exhibi
tor, In frenzy, tluew Ills entire stock into
the midst of the boxes, and when ho had
completed thu task und stood pale, cha
grined and aghast, a great shout went up
from the Newunnltes, and one of the best
of practical Jokes fur vvhleh the town Is
famous had ueen successfully performed,
Shortly after this an Interview took place
between the driiinrin r and his firm. The
diumuier told thu ill m candidly that he
did not propose to work for a set of
damned rascals; the 111 in told the drummer
that ho was a poor fool nnd the drummer
took up other lines of goods.
' It was at a pretty luncheon In London
that 1 Hist hentd nbout the now walking
cure for physical defects," said an Ameri
can gill Just homo from 11 tour on the
other side. Our hostess had feasted us
ioully, but halt a dozen women got up
heloio the last course had gone around,
sajing that If they were not on time thu
ptofcssoi would give their nppolntmenti
to pionipter patients, nnd oil they went
to their new promenade exercises.
Now the professor, one of his most nr
dent disciples look iln pains to explain to
me, has made a scientific study of our hu
man loiin divine, nnd discovered that with
women half tho 111 health and all defects
lu gait and figure .ulse fiom our talso
methods of locomotion. To wiilk proper
ly Is to hold and move tho body, he s.is,
so that eveiy muscle Is exactly bailment
and employed, nnd It Is on this piinciplu
ho guaiaiilccH to bring any woman's tlg
ure hack Into lines of strength and grace.
Women whose unities or knees are bent
too far In or out, who hold ono shoulder
and consequently one hip higher than the
other, whoso necks uie craned foivvard,
shoulders bent, spines ever so little dl
m 1 glng from thi- pel feet line, or even
those who weir out the soles of their shoe-s
unevenly, go to him for collection and
tinlulng.
Ills system Is simple to a degree, and
Ills list of aristocratic pupils Is nlieadv,
outgrowing the possibility ot his petsoual
sm 1 vision.
lleforo his modest little houo, down In
the very wilds ot Kensington, thele stands
all day a long row of the smallest a'
1 luges, and over the floor of his bale" little
diawing loom march and counterman h
many belles of the season, a tow fat, old
ducliescs and small git Is from tho nurs
ery. They aro all Heading the mazes of
Intilcatc patterns, atari, elides, nngles and
squaii s, inarhfcd out on the lloor, that Is
eovned with a thin black rubber eaipct.
Some of theo pedostrl ins, however, 1110
meielv walking up and down a long
stiuig'it llne counting one, two, three nt
eei slip, to the tlmo maiked bj a big
music box, tinkling out an opeiatlo air
in ono corner of the loom. Others go
stepping along from Fquaie to squaie,
lifting their fi et over blot ks of wood, nil
lm It high, set In tin Ir way at tegular
Intel vols, nnd here and tbtio are portly
mufiuni rating at full spud round tho
sixteen points of a huge chalked out stni
All this while the piofessor, his big Ger
man feet In square-toed. Hat-heeled shoes,
and his Houseis cut olf short at the ankles.
skips about dlteetlng nnd correcting, und
when a pupil's half hour Is up ho gives
her a bit of folded paper, on which IS
drawn a new diagram, that she must prae
tle for two half hours eveiy din at home.
Fiom 9 In thu morning until late In tho
afternoon groups in the little driwing room
arifve and disappear, and tho professor
does not lusltate to accept tho most awk
ward pupil, In high hopis of turning her
out at the end of a ten lesson 1 ourse, n.
vision of giacctul eainaKO and pink
cheeked health.
Ill fitting shoes, lie nys, eareles habits
and the fact that the aveiage Hi tie tlultl
Is toreetl to walk too e illy, lends to vvomt 11
their unsightly gait, th tt Is not nt nil Im
proved b) the awkward heavy skirts and
the corsets they are obllgi tl to don, Just
at the nge win 11 the niusi ics an stittV-nlng,
They thiow the body olf Its cent- r of grav
ity, and so out of the line of beuuty und
haimony, to restore which ho teaches
these processes of self-locomotion, Tho
most obstinate ease of pigeon toes he
run's, simply by making his pupils take the,
longest stildes In walking A badly swayed
back girl ho sts to tolling up und down
a sicip Incllnt ;lii) of the badly splayed
feet goes a-tiptoiliig about a gieat oval,
and directly sho iln:I her exact center
of gravity, her bonks, llinbs and sinew h
will fall into the ules.adjustmcnt naturo
meant they should hnvtV-Jind tho profe".
or'j mission Is achieved,
M1LLICHNT AltHOWPOINT.
An Antoinette Wrap.
If there Is no now eltess under the sun.
Anion's linen cont being worn to-day by
women and pantaloons having been totintl
from the stone epoch, them ure at least
designs that reappear like comets at such
long Intervals that they aro new to sumo
consecutive genetatluns, Thus It is with
a eeitiiiti Muito Antoinette hood, part of
.1 Mario Antoinette cloak, that has ap
peal oil und seems destined to a career. Not
so veiy old 111 its design it is so extremeK-
otld and Its career was so shoit lu its day
tlllll II ll'llius .11111 III! .HIT I'UUUl ot gin-
pi Iso. This hood is exceedingly wide and la
hooped 1 omul the opening, and when on
the head stands out Ilka an inflated hiilf
balloon somewhat flattened on tho top unit
tetiviuii a .tutu spue-u on .'nun siue or 1110
face, that mav bu idled with hair or shad
ows. Tho width of tills hood leaches out
to that of tho vvltlest sleeves ever made.
Attached to a long cloak it Is bound to
llgure In evening wraps next winter, but
foicstnlllmr the time, they ale occasion. 1 11 v
seen on hotel piazzas ut night, and madu
of taffeta beiuehcil or of satin lined win,
cloth: 01,0 or two travelers have worn them
coming ftnni Paris to the beach. Tho ef
fect Is truly marvelous.
nIiriXgtllIgIILKX41!aiIIi;jTTTxTTYyrtTlIglvgltKWlllllJllli'lliiT
Iff 18 tt w
Rheumatism
IS PI5H II APS the cause of more iicuto mtorlng than any other
form of dlse.no that human flesh it bclr to. The BI.IIO
Tltoroisi: u "llentl hhot" every time ou lthoumatWiu, um
will uot only nave you from unity a pain ami aeiie, hut villi
also nave jnu many timet, Its price lu moue'j. Never full to
give prompt rdlof nnd IiisU a life time. No lucdlelne, no
belt nor battery. Wrlto us about your case ami let us ex
plain more fully. WltlTH NOW.
ELECTROPOISE CO.,
317 Ridge Building, Kansas City, Mo,
"" " nr """inn