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vening Dresses Are Varied For All Types - ■ —— - fly MARI' MARSFIALL “ — - - a HEY ADD BEAUTY TO ALL TYPES Costumes Inspired By Periods Of A Romantic Past Are Favorites SELDOM have evening dresses Keen more varied or more charming than they are this autumn, and seldom has it been more perplexing to make up one's mind when it comes to choosing an evening gown for some particular occa sion. For beautiful as are the dresses designed for dining, dancing and formal evening wear, it is apparent to the thoughtful observer that fashions present are in a transitional stage. The women who wants to select an evening dress that will do for many months, that will possiLly be in good tyle next season, is confronted with many questions. The long or very long skirt is correct for formal occasions hut some of the French dressmakers are also sponsor ing an ankle-lrngth evening dress that i« actually newer than the very long skiit and that is moreover more becoming to cer tain women. A number of the French dressmaker* have been enthusiastically sponsoring the raised waistline, placed an inch or more above “normal," but no one of course know - w hether this Empire waistline will survive in tlie race for favor with the de fined lower waistline. There, Is a strong tendency toward dress*-> inspir* d by the romantic costume periods of the past—dresses of the picturesque •ort that please us in much the same wav that furniture of a dis tinct period sort plows us. on the other hand there Is a reaction In f;i \or of the moi sophist type of evening dr< ss tn it holds Itself .iloot ni pas’ ’.isliions and prefers to f--- strictly modern. Lrosses of the former sort are made interesting by ruin s and flounces, frills and bow knots ar ranged usually in i s- mmetrical manner, v hilo dress*-* of th*- lat ter sort have full • -> arr inged by drapery and manipulation of a less symmetrf- il .sort. Th * very slender woman t- wi •• in ch< sine an evenir.p dress w h t! ■ dCco» letnpe arranp- -1 in cowl fashion, the drapery pair ; flattering full A band of black bare fur trims the skirt of this simple evening dress of black chiffon. Simply extreme n.ul extremly simple the cIpp's itt the left. made of white satin with rhine stone shoulder strap and lielt. The white velvet rape Is trimmed with white fox. The latest version of the very low bock is shown in ihr blaek flat rrr|*r dress at the right. It is worn with long black suede glove*. ne*.j, trross (he bust. Then there «'»rv new evening dresses with ruffles extending ji'toss the bust , and under the arms that also give width and fullness to the slender woman. f'ome of the new dresses are he Id it the shoulders with the narrowest of shoulder straps a mere cord that leaves the line of the shoulders and arms substan tially unbroken. Sometimes there is a narrow shoulder strap with a large how of the material posed at the left strap, one looped side .of the bow extending upward and the other downward. The wide IS 30 dAcollctage is found on some of the new eve ning dresses, sometimes with a bertha extending across the front of the bodice forming short caps over the shoulders and usually extended in the hack to follow the lines of a very low-cut bodice. The effect is one of Victorian do mnreness at the front and of tw> ntieth-century sophistication at the hack. With the all white dress you may wear a belt of twisted velvet of \ right green. American beauty red or one of the brighter pastel blues Angus* abernaid set the fashion for a twisted girdle of this sort accompanied by a s. arf made of the same velvet. A simple white dre>a worn wPh bright green girdle and scarf is especi ally attractive. The large how placed at the front of the left shoulder strap is decidedly smart. A somewhat smaller bowknot may be placed at the front of both shoulder straps. Colored gardenias may be plac ed at the front of the left shoulder strap. Pink gardenias so placed give nn acceptable touch of color to the all black dress. Chiffon, satin and velvet are the leading materials for evening dresses this autumn. Georgette, luce ar.d supple metal fabrics are also important. Stiff Lyon velvet is a close rival to the supple chiffon velvet. Very tine black lace is appro priate for the younger woman as well as for the older woman, and is sometimes worn over a slip of flesh-colored satin crepe. All black evening gowns are as much in favor as ever. The all white dress, as a foil for colored Jewelry, is gaining favor. Then there are the Jewel tones—ruby red, deep sapphire blue and finer laid - and the soft, rather dull pas I tel tones. Soft shades of pink continue to find favor with younger women and deeper shades of rose, ranging from the lightest pink to a deep American beauty. Ermine s Fur Was On Weasel’s Back MAX V w orn* n wear ermine coats who do not realize that the fur on their backs belonged once to a weasel. A Russian weas* 1. to be sure, but a weasel none the less. I'ntil quite recently the most striking thing about ermine was the black tail that appeared every once in so often against the pur. white back ground of the fur. Now ermine appears with narry a tail on Its surface, and sometimes whole rows of tails are used together like fringe at the edge of a pure white ermine wrap. Another recent innovation in the way of ermine is the u«e of so-called summer ermine, w hit a ;s the pelt of the weasel -is it is in the summer. The white coat appears only when there is snow upon the ground, thus serving to protect the little animal from his enemies. Now- w bite ermine is sometimes dv*-d light brown to make it look like summer ermine, and sometimes ermine is dyed strange jwistel shades, mauve, rose. etc. But the fad for this colored ermine seems to he on the wane. It is said that in Faris the really fashionable women have given up any sort of ermine hut the white. The true ermine is really only the Russian weasel, but experts say that it is difficult to distin guish the fur of the American weasel in winter coat from the real Russian ermine. There is really nothing deceptive in calling American weasel "ermine,” be ejiuse It is really as fine a fur. STEP-INS! Step-in slmrts are flit sub ject of this week's pattern dia gram. If you would like a copy of it. with directions for mak ing these dainty hit* of under wear. semi your -tamped, -elf addressed cnvolo|>e to Mary Marshall, can- of * his pa|K-r. and it will Is* forwarded to you. CLOTHES IN 1830 WERE IN REVOLT Sleeves Were Very Important, Just As They Are Century Later PARIS was the center of fashions a hundred years ago, just as it is today. Of course news of fashions traveled more slowly then from east to west, but it trav eled just the same. And though American women did not read news flashed across the ocean bv wireless, still they got news from Paris about the shortening or lengthening of skirts, the in crease or decrease in the size cf sleeves. A hundred years ago fash i .ns were undergoing decided rhange, just as they are today. M'he high waist of the Empire and Directoire periods had gone out of fashion. The waistline was moving down ward. It was also becoming smaller. So that in place of the scant underwear women wore in the Directoire they were donning heavy corsets and petticoats that forecast the voluminous skirts of a few years later. Th lep o’ mutton sleeve was a scanda. of the day —among those who regarded fashion change with disapproval. This sleeve had grown to enormous proportions. Hoops, which later came into fashion un der skirts, were then used in sleeves- — w tre frames that held the fabric of the sleeve far out from the arm Sometimes these hupe sleeves were stuffed with down, like pillows, te make them star • out. llalr was growinp a hundred years ago—that tendency and the Importance of sleeves were like today’s fashions. Hair had been 4 ut short at the time <»f the Diree toire, but by 1830 it had grown again, so that it was arranged picturesquely in little curls and puffs. But in spite of the pretty curls —or perhaps because of them —women worn caps indoors- — even young women. The*, cap* were the daintiest little things im agineable. all frills and lace. They were becominc. too. Shawls, which had *ome into vogue it is said, when Napoleon brought some hack to Josephine from Egypt and the East, were still worn—as indeed they were for years, because skirts were so full that coats were not practical. And these shawls wore often costly Imports from Persia, the pride of a woman's wardrobe. Altogether clothe*, a hundred years ago were interesting. Hut when haven’t they been in teresting to the heart of the nor mal woman? The ph*ture*que note Is xtmrk In the black velvet evening dre-w irlninicd at neck and shouldcra with i«cru lace. The hair imrted at cither side l> caught at the front with a rhinestone pin. The McClure ft cuspaper Syndicate. 3 I III— M m ■ W ■■ ■ ! r-1 I'alr iiinl. iull<- Imi> appliques «>f blm*. mauve and cm'n tafTrui - —— -1 I “ale pink chiffon la worn with larcr wine-rod velvet mt*rs to match the coat. The pink satin slippers have heels and bows of wine colored velvet. Underwear Must Fit As Well As Dresses Fashion now demands perfectly fifed undergarments. They should not be tight, hut they should be made to conform to the natural outlines of the body so that there will be no puckers or loops to de tract from the molded lines of the outer garments. Unless you have a figure of perfectly average pro portions you should have your lingerie made to order or. if you buy it ready made, you should take pairs to alter it carefully to suit your individual measure ments. If you make your own dainty underthings then you should use a pattern that can !>•' adjusted to your own requirements. This week's home dressmaker's help consists of a diagram pattern for a new type French combination or step-in. The model was chosen because It can so easily be varied to suit individual measurements. Even if y >u never figured out an other pattern before you will ilqd this very easy. So please send me our stamped, self-addressed on | velope and I will m nd your copy at once. Jumpers Please Us The Jumper drew, that we have ; heard so much about recently, at the present time has a sleeveless upper portion cut down at the front to show a blouse usually of washable material and a'most al ways white or light toned. It is the piesent-day version of the guimpo dress and is quite as suit able for women as It is for little girls. There are one-piece Jumper dresses of tweed or other light weight woolen material, belted at the normal waistline, and there are two-plore Jumper dresses with an upper portion extending a little below the hips, also belted in at the waistline. Moreover there are Jumper type sweaters worn tuck ed-in fashion or over the skirt. These are nothing more nor less than sleeveless sweaters made to be worn w ith a separate blouse and are decidedly smart at pres ent for golf or other outdoor sport*. JfcWfcLS AJNU GOWNS MUST HARMONIZE If You Have Jewel* Then Buy the Dress That Best Goes With Them JEWELRY takes an im portant place in the eve ning costume. You must ^ realize this even though you are extremely conservative in your use of jewelry anti limit yourself to two ornaments or even one. You may Lei that you look best with no jewelry save a pair of the new very long pendant earrings, or a single string of pearls or bril liants. or a bracelet with a ring to match, or perhaps a large brooch and matching pair of earrings. But if you arc to look decidedly well dressed in your new evening costume the relationship be tween the gown and the jew elry must be carefully consid ered. if you already have the jewelry then you should choose the evening gown ac cordingly. Rubies are tn the aarendency this autumn, and the rather sim ply contrived dress of white satin or crepe is frequently cl oeen as a foil f r them. Pal*, pastel tones may also be worn effectively as a baokgiound for these lovely red stones and a rather daring con trast is achieved by wearing ru bies on one of the brighter pastel greens. Pearls are at their best with velvet, crystals and diamonds are most effective when worn with Yellow, green an«l gold chiffon lame • it>i >*-arf falling at the hack. black, while turquoise ornaments are also effective with black. Turquoise blue and a paler shade of greenish blue known as robin's egg are favored for eve- ^ ning dresses this autumn and ax® especially becoming to sun-t&nned skin. Ixmg suede gloves of tur quoise or rohin s egg are some times worn effectively with the all black dr sa Striking but perfectly correct. Many of. the new evening dressi s. are finished with belts made of braided strands of the material, held together with buck les or brooches at rhinnstones.