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Fort Worth daily gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, December 30, 1888, Image 5

Image and text provided by University of North Texas; Denton, TX

Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn86064205/1888-12-30/ed-1/seq-5/

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LADIES COLUMN
About Gianges in Costumes for
Prpuienade or Parlor
Empire GownsReAilfusted Kedimrof es
Jloiisc Jackets and Minor Fripperies
of Fjekle Fashion
Tactical lessons Ui the Successful Use of the
Broom IMnttMn Housekeeping and
DrcssJlnklng
This winter seems to bo a season of
reaction trom fashions extremes ami
changes moro or ess radical aro noticea
ble in nearly all parts of the costume
The ukase that the bustle must go while
it 1ms not been entirely destructive to this
protuberance has so modified it as to ren
der Its presence almost indiscernible and
so soon has the eye become accustomed
to the now order that when it is obtru
sively worn tho wearer is condemned
by the stem judges of stylo The ban
ishment is however only apparent
there aro few women who can dispense
with it entirely a fact that modistes are
not siovrto appreciate and steels are
substituted to relieve tho flatness and
provide tho requisite contour of the form
Another return is seen in tho tendency
toward abundant trimming For years
extreme plainness hns been a marked
feature in street costumes particularly
but a womanly lovo of adornment with
enough of the fair barbarian has created
an imperative demand for less severity in
womens dress and tinsel and jet silk
embroidery and braiding have become
essentials in completing a toilet In
matters of ornamentation there is a
marked leaning to the 6tyles of the em
pire when Josephine ruled the world of
fashion quite as autocratically as did her
lord the great Napoleon the land of
Frenchwomen The present threeyard
lace scarf made of soft blondelike lace
of any delicate tone is intended to be
wound about the neck as our grand
mothers wore them with sandaled shoes
I reticules narrow skirts and the waist
rell beneath the armpits but most
lif tho present beautiful designs date from
Ithe earlier epoch A good example is the
now beaded belt witli tho fine straight
empire borders worked in jet the entire
depth spotted with single cut beads It
is wide and excellent in texture as in
style and can be had in black white
wandgoUl and other combiuatious v
The embroideries for these dresses are
most of them guipure and many of the
garnitures of all kinds are arranged so
the materials show beneath It is the
fashion now to trim the hems of gowns
ivith handsome borderings and for this a
new guipure has been brought out which
resembles leather It is ecclesiastical in
its points and crockets the guipure
edged with cord all around or rather
thick embroidery to resemble cord the
whole nbout six inches in depth this can
belluado in many colorings Bands of
cloth of the same width are pinked at tho
edge and worked in silks while others
are closely embroidered in satin stitch in
one or more colorings and are intended
to be laid on the material Everything
vould seem to be applied as borders and
jB2
no expense or time has been spared in
bringing them to perfection as regards
color and design Black jet and gold are
combined in many of those handsome
patterns which aro easily divisible into
distinct motifs A Hour de lis of an im
portant size is a good example Many
of the handsomest in which braid is
used are united by close crochet
The colorings and mixtures of colors are
beyond praise in every sense harmonious
and according well with the materials for
which they are intended The guipures
are nearly all of mixed colorings or of
two shades of color dark blue blends
with red green witli tan and cashme
rienne tints are all interpleaded in one
design
A novelty of the season is the very per
fect imitation of braiding and satinstitch
embroidery in monochrome over cloth
and cashmere Separate pinepatterns
and sprays and borders of various widths
are woven into the material but give the
effect of being worked by hand Panels
skirtfronts plastrons and facings are
made of this imitation braiding and the
plain material is always to bo had to
match for the rest of tho costume
Stripes are being much worn this win
ter and to treat them artistically is the
problem not only of amateurs but even of
those who deem themselves artistes
Among the successes in this line may be
reckoned a costume of which tho great
er portion is in brown camels cloth
made with great simplicity and fitting
tightly to the figure At thejight side a
length of striked brown silk relieved with
pale maize the two colors altiJrnatingiti
the stripes is carried from the shoul
der to the edge ofthc dress in a w ay that
is not easy to describe with only pen and
ink Tlio bodice part of tho silk is bias
so that the stripes run straight down but
the silk itself traverses the bosom to
tho left side f the waist in a genjUy
diagonal Hiw iTlie folds produced y
this method re every becoming Tile
silk i not cut but epvers the fro t of the
camelliairSkirt leaving the whole of the
left portion of the dress uncovered ex
cept an inch or two of the waist where
the folds of the silk are caught in and
held by a few strong but in
visible stitches The back is entirely
covered with a long drapery of thesilic
which is cut in one with the center por
tion of the bodice The under part of
the sleeves is made of the stripe and tho
upper or perhaps it is better to call it
tho outer part is in the selfcolored
camels hair Silks are striped with
satin or plush or with small Uowerets of
tho kind that milliners call pompadour
But of whatever description the stripes
may be there is no variation from tho
rule decreeing that they shall be made
up in combination with a plain material
There seems little doubt of the con
tinued popularity of the redingote al
though there is a marked difference m
their cut since last spring Redingotes
must be fashioned closely to tho shape of
the figure and a good deal of
extra width of skirt is placed in at each
of the back seams In some cases actual
prettiness is sacrificed to novelty or the
race for eccentricity and a triple
shoulder cape is added or a second bell
shaped fluted sleeve is sewn into the arm
hole above the normal coat sleeve which
is turned back with a narrow cuff
at the wrist Other redingotes
affect tho pelisse form and as the bodice
pieces aro not necessarily cut in one with
those of tho basques or skirts a girdle or
sash concealing the seams which join the
upper and lower portions amateurs will
find them more easy to treat with suc
cess A comfortable everyday coat is
that in diagonal cloth with pleated center
nieces for the back and front of the
r
T
GREAT REDUCTIONS IN OUR PLUSH WRAPS
Which must be closed out at once We
cant take chances on carrying a part of
them over the summer for the sake of a
profit on a few They must go noyh
without a profit
V A BIG JOB LOT
Of Childrens Heavy Bibbed Hose seam
less and good colors regular 25c and 35c
hose Must all go at 15c a pair
it has been repeated thousands of
mined to break the record and conti
out our entire house such tempting
405 and 407 Houston Street
THROUGH TO
3tQ5 jMadLxv Street
ssbmut yiTi
E S2 S S I I
bodice framed in by bands of watered
silk or plush and plain skirt lace for a
fold laid underneath the edge and folded
belt If the belt is sewed in at the side
seams the backs must be cut in one with
the basque
The underskirt must have a certain
amount of expansion and is usually two
and a half yards wide and finished with
one steel not tied tightly
Notwithstanding tho raid against pads
they aro still worn It will take some
time to convince a woman that she looks
well without a dress improver and at
present the appearance of the few who
have discarded the appendage does not
impress one to the contrary
New sleeves are made full in many dif
ferent ways giving at last a change from
the slim coat sleeves for even the latter
are made wider thau formerly and in
some cases they drop down from the top
in a cross fold separate from the lining
and are sewed very full in a point in the
top of thearmhole Even cloth sleeves
are full from the armhole to half way be
low the elbow where they are gathered
over an inner sleeve of cloth of contrast
ing color which is made closer fitting
though not tight as whgn finished with
its turnedback cuff also of cloth it is
large enough for theliead tJ pass through
Sometimes the cloth is shirred to a point
at the armhole and a baud of galloon
forms the cap or jockey as French mo
distes say around tho armhole and a
similar band conceals the seam which
gives the full part to the deep cuff Vel
vet lir plush sleeves are also full witli a
tfeep cuff covered with passementerie
Iij some coat sleeves fullness is added by
lengthening and widening the upper end
and folding it carelessly around the arm
hole in thick irregular folds Some now
deep cuffs Hare outward like gauntlets
aud extend in two or three points above
the end of tho full sleeves In empire
dresses tho sleeves are in the present ac
ceptation of the leg o mutton shape a
full coat vjeeve pushed up at the top in
Vwrinkles around the armhole
in cosTUJirs or Tin higher chadi
the corselet commands much attention
and is frequently made of velvet and
plush to be worn over gowns of soft silk
gauze or even light woolen fabrics The
upper part of tho bodice s made of the
dress material laid in fichu folds which
cross upon the breast tho edges being
concealed beneath tho corselet The lat
ter in its handsomest form is made of
cut out embroidery or the very popular
chain braid passementerie which has the
glint and glimmer of metal beads These
are shaped perfectly to the figure and
are joined so cleverly as to fill ono with
wonderment as to the adjusting thereof
A number of simple gowns are being
made of cashmere for quiet tea parties at
home or for day wear in the house
These gowns are made with draped skirts
and simple bodices A cashmere gown
of silver gray has a panel of ribbon
shaped faille in several shades of gray
introduced in the skirt Tho bodice is
quite plain but is finished with a fanci
ful little vest of soft rose
colored surah extending the
length of the waist A
dark green cashmere gown
is made with a gracefully
draped but plain underskirt and
has a little pointed vest of palest green
corded silk brocaded in a pattern of
tiny rosebuds Tho bodice of this dress
is free from the shoulder on either side of
the vest and the tiny cuffs of rosebud
brocade are shirred into three puffs
caught down by the fine green silk cords
which are knotted in loops on the outside
of the seam Dressmakers are making
very many dresses for the house of car
dinal aud of darker oxblood red cash
5J
CT 1 < 7F r
iss s s s
Wfe
THE GAZETTE EOUT WOItTH TEXAS SUNDAY DECEMBER 30
Is the way our INeyvinarkets must
go Only about 100 left Come
early and gep0 good wrap for
or 6
W
i0
3
J3L
meres embroidered in Persian patterns
and in many gay cashmere colors
A dinner dress is of irongray faille
and grosgrain silk of the same color
brocaded witli large purple pansies
There is a foundation skirt of thin silk
which remains invisible A skirt front
of faille put on almost plain over this
foundation skirt is finished at the foot
with a deepgray silk fringe headed with
three narrow flounces slightly gathered
about two inches deep A redingote of
tho brocaded silk remains open to
show this skirt front It is com
posed of a back pieco cut princess
fashion and forming from the
waist two treble plaits the sidepieces
next back are also finished each by an
ample plait over the skirt The fronts
and fruntsidcpieces turminate at
tho iwaist under a wide
scarf which is draped across tho
front and fastened on the left side in a
smal < puff with one large lappet edged
with fringe falling down to the foot of
the skirt The fronts of the bodices open
with revers over a plaited chemisette of
the plain faille Coatsieves of faille
with open facings ornamented with two
buttons
Inexpensive and dainty house jackets
for evening wear with dark or light
skirts aro made of soft silk with a full
lace front The shape is usually close
fitting with full front and pointed gir
dle or it may have jacket fronts opening
over a drooping vest Embroidery dono
witli line cord braid or silk may trim
the edges or they may be plain as the
taste suggests Foulard surah or crepo
do chine make pretty jackets A flounc
ing of lace is a dressy finish to tho gar
ment
NOTES
Gloves tor evening wear extend but a
short distance above the elbow
Long scarfs of colored lace are even
newer than tho boa for wear about tho
throat
Pale tinted flannel underskirts with
wide yak laee trimmings through which
ribbons arerun are taking the place of
knitted goods
Tho halflong sleeves now so much
worn for evenings have often ribbon
epaulets or else long strings of eastern
looking beads pendant from their lower
edges
The silken waistcoats of dressy tea
gowns aud indoor frocks for dressy wear
are sometimes covered with silver or gold
tinsel dots aud small figures and fastened
with buttons to match
Tho new long mitts just brought out
for wear with dinner gowns have no
fingers at all but have a double row of
silk embroidery around the top of the
hand aud the edge of the thumb
There is a marked decline in the popu
larity in the severely criticised decollete
bodice For new gowns the bodice is cut
much higher in a pretty heartshape or
fit over delicate gauze and lace gimps
which are drawn close about the throat
Reception gowns are now cut tremen
dously low in front Though the chemi
sette worn under them comes almost to
the ears its soft whiteness and tho pearl
ribbon so liberally bestowed on it do but
heighten instead of softening the startling
effect
Frail carved amber and tortoise shell
combs very small the top of which aro
studded with minute jewels diamonds
more frequently are simple but effective
ornaments for the hair For the rest
hairpins etc French gilt have almost
superseded jet and amber
Small pins used for cliff pinsor on the
bonnet strings or to catch the lace at the
throat are set with garnets or with green
aud red garnets or with tiny jeweled
butterflies acQ other insects When used
Qifeentire stock of Misses and
ffldre s Cloaks ages 2 to 18
4
ears a g eat variety of styles and
Colors
TJSSSJi
for cuff pins they are not chosen in
matching pairs but in odd pins near tho
same size
The English small girl is more pictur
esque than ever for now we are told her
hair is cut short at top aud sides and the
back drawn up and plaited at night so as
to make a wavy background for her face
Then her frock is very full as to skirt
sleeve and waist with smocking in place
of bauds and below that gaiters and
stout low shoes take tho place of the
high boots seen upon her American
cousin
A handsome walking costumo of gray
cloth has all the front of the skirt hand
somely braided The cloth skirt is put
on over a plaited silk one It is also
plaited in full double plaits attheback
but in front it is merely gathered and
very slightly draped on the left side with
three handsome agrafes of gray passe
menterie The bodice which is cut all in
one piece princess fashion at tho back
is separate from it and peaked in front
the fronts are braided on each side and
slightly open to show a peaked plastron
of plaited gray silk Agrafes of passe
menterio are placed upon tho shoulders
and tho coatsleeves aro braided up to the
elbow
A stylish winter gown for a young lady
is made of goldenbrown camels hair
with stripes in cashmere pattern in which
scarlet green bronze and gold are richly
blended The skirt is plain with most
of Iho fullness massed at the back The
jaScet corsage has a Charles X revers
collar spreading on each side of a vest of
goldenbrown cloth braided in multi
coloied soutache in which tho colors of
the stripe are reproduced Tho sleeves
of tho eamelshairfabricarc facednearly
to the elbow with the plain cloth this
facing put on to resemble a mousque
taire cuff The braiding work nearly
covers the facing
Household
On opening a door this morning the
writer encountered a cloud of dustraised
by a sturdy sweeper who seemed to
think his duty lay in disseminating this
dust throughout the room as much as was
possible by the aid of mainstrength a
Brussels carpet a stiff broom and closed
windows It is needless to say he
achieved success nor that the door was
hastily closed by the intruder It then
occurred to the mind of the writer that n
disquisition on this homely art might not
be out of place in the household column
for ignorance of proper methods is not
confined to Africa aud Erin The last
suggests a bull It is well to begin the
sweeping by dusting as I think
most ladies will agree that
after a round of sweeping there
is little strength or spirit left for a
thorough dusting A good plan then is
to open the windows and armed with a
eloth slightly damped a feather duster
and a painters brush fall to wiping
brushing and cleaning every crevice in
the marble furniture that can be cleansed
and when this is done move outof the
brooms way the sweepers progress is
now simplified aud there is no moving
from place to place There is a differ
ence of opinion among women as to a
dry or damp sweep but it would seem
that experimentation would decide for
the latter In order to do this last suc
cessfully the vessel containing the water
must admit the broom easily in order
that it may be thoroughly washed and
any surplus water shaken off The
water should be frequently changed es
pecially if the carpet is light A moder
ately stiff broom not too heavy does the
S
Prfa
at
Y tr o jpt 4
8SSss2BasKa
work more effectually and this should
be held in f a slanting position
with a short stroke the broom
Eever in our business career have we enjoyed such a grand holiday trade as lias just passed for which we
return thanks to our numerous customers with the assurance that we shall continue as in the past to guard their interests as
carefully as our own hy fair and impartial treatment and giving full value received for every dollar dropped into our hands to
which we attribute our great success
AT 75c A PAIS WORTH 2
100 Pair Fine Mosquitaire Kid Gloves
8 and 10button lengths in black tans
gray white and cream The word Bar
gain cant do justice to this lot It is
even worse than slaughter
MUST BE SACRIFICED
About 800 Jerseys representing great
variety of styles colors and weights must
be sold regardless of profit or cost
imes that aft r a storm there is always calm but we have deter
le the busines storm of the preceding weeks by offering through
bargains that wfll keep it raging
E ALL 1 ME IB W J PERSONAL DM OF THE WW
ALL AROUND YOU
never being allowed to lly upward as
tliat sends the dust into tho air Sweep
from the corners and sides to tho middle
of the room using the dustpun fre
quently as the labor is inci cased and the
work of cleaning hindered by an attempt
to carry before the broom a pile of diit
Some prefer sweeping down the walls
first but if this is done once a week there
is little dust brushed down and a light
after brushing of carpet will remove it
Anticipatory of all sweeping or brush
ing as far as possible pictures should be
covered lace curtains carefully shaken
and the ends wrapped m some old cloth
wellworn pillow cases are useful hero
the bricabrac should be covered or
better still dusted laid away in drawers
or carried into another room A few
moments of waiting will suffice after
brushing the wainscoting windowsills
and doors when the furniture may be
brought back and rearranged
and tho diligent sweeper will
be only too glad that there
is no further dusting necessary Tho
rugs that have been out in the air and
faithfully beaten and replaced have a
look of freshness and the tired worker in
her caps and gloves is entitled to a few
moments rest in the easiest chair she
can find before she adjusts the scarfs
and other bits cf dainty handiwork
Those who rank sweeping with drudg
ery and feci no pride in its well doing
will do well to remember tho eaying of
the gentle George Herbert who declares
that whoso sweeps faithfully makes
both tho room and tho action line
While Charles Spurgcon was willing to
accept as proof of conversion the simple
housemaids declaration that now she
swept under the mats thus attesting that
conscientious discharge of duty entered
into her homeliest acts
juxipks
Mock Waffles Cut bakers bread into
thiu slices dip them in milk and fry to a
nice brown on a buttered griddle As
the slices are done put butter and sugar
aud a very little nutmeg over them Lay
them in a pile and cover closely for a
while before serving
Frosted Apples A very nice way of
preparing apples is the following Pare
and core juicy tart apples place them in
a pudding dish and bake them until just
done and set away to cool then make
icing aud spread it over the top return
the apples to the oven and bake to a del
icato brown Eat cold or hot with
cream
Mince Meat Take 1 bowlful of meat
chopped line and 2 bowlftils of apples 1
pound each of raisins and blackcurrants
1 lemon 2 cupfuls of sugar 1 nutmeg 2
tablespoonfuls of cinnamon 1 pint of
boiled cider 1 cupful of brandy boil all
together aud can while hot
Flannel Cakes Scald 2 teacupfuls
sweet milk and stir into it 2 large taJ
spoonfuls of butter then add 2 flJaci
fuls cold milk the yolks of 4 wtdpbeatgji
eggs half a teacupful yeast dpoaspo
ful salt and flour enough to njfke a s
batter Set in a warm pljpe to
lust before baking stir in the whit
the 4 eggs beaten stiff Fry li
griddle cakes Flour is not addeiT
the first rising unless it is left to
second time
Orange Pudding Peel and cut five
oranges into thin slices remove all the
seeds pour over the slices a teaspoonful
of white sifted sugar Heat a pint of
milk by letting it stand in a saucepan of
boiliHgJfeter add tho yolks of three
eggspveiyjieaten and one tablespoonful
of cofrn jlpufennde smooth in cold milk
StirsjEttie Y
4
I
405 and 407 Houston Street
TURODGII TO
904 jXTojlxjl Street
the eggs to a stiff froth add a tnblO
spoonful of white sifted sugar aud pour I
over the top of tho frosting Set it in tht
oven to harden then servo Can b
eaten either hot or cold
Choeolato Creams Two cunipf sugar
one cup of water ono and rfhnltf tilbU
spoonfuls of corn starch fiao teaspoon
ful vanilla mix all exeppt vanilla cLot
it boil from live to eight minutes stir
ring all tho time take it off and stir unti
it comes to a cream when nearly smootl
add vanilla aud mako into balls Mia
half pound chocolate but do not afli
water Boll the balls in it while warm
Trifle This is made of tho whites of six
eggs and the yelks of four ono cupful
and a half of sugar half n cupful ofjj
water half a cupful of Hour twooraugos
half a teaspoonful of cream of tartar
small jar of strawberry preserves and two
quarts of whipped cream Sift and
measuro the flour Put threequarts o
a cupful of sugar in a small bowTiUKi
grato on it tho peel of ono orange Sepa
rato tho whites and yelks of the eggs
putting tho former in a large mixing
bowl and four of the yolks in a small
bowl
Beat the whites of tho eggs to
dry froth and gradually beat
the smrar and orange rind Wl
sugar has been beaten into t
beat tho four yelks till they are1
add them to tho mixture Now
eparat
Forsa
Mrgfrs
e aud as soon as thick
Cit Beat T
lira o
J
the cream of tartar and Hour Beat t
mixture well and turn it into a deep
round unbuttered bakingpan a large
charlotto russe mold will answer Bake
for half an hour in a very slow oven
When it is dono take the pan from tho
oven and turn it upside down on a sieve
When the cake is cool slip a broad bladed
knife between it and the sides of the pan
and take it out Place tho cake bottom
side down in a largo glass
dish Put tho half cupful of water audi
the remaining threequarters of a cupful
of sugar in a small saucepan and boil
rapidly for about ten minutes then take
the liquid from the lire aud add the juicoS
of the two oranges Pour this syrup a
spoonful at a time over the cake and set
away until serving time At that time
put two tablespooufuls of the strawberry
preserves on top of the cake and arrange
the remainder in a circle at the base
Ileap whipped cream around the circlo of
preserve and put two tablespooufuls on
of the cake Servo at once
top
r l > It
ffl TO FAIL
YRRANTS EXTRACT
OCBED3 and
an old tried
gonorrheca glee
sea of the ifn
Its neatgifyrtabla
freedom yW11 tasto
Speedy afl fl
tly curcjhKitt
days aB li
s time
nai
remeg
ed
prevent fraud see that each pac
red strip across face of label wjththe
0fTARRAXTfiJsf NY upon it
Sold by all drojf
HARRISlflft
FOB COUdj
3
jge whites cy h0es to p akfe
bii r jfCrv tchf Oastoria
W

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