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Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, May 21, 1899, Image 9

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn86071779/1899-05-21/ed-1/seq-9/

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This is to be a chapter on negligees, i
Under which heading tea gowns, boudoir
frocks and kitnonus will be considered.
It is quite the proper caper to receive
one's callers up to half past 4 o'clock of
the afternoon in negligee attire. Thi3 13 :
the latest bulletin from the "smart set" |
ofllce, which in part accounts for the 1
wondrously beautiful garments fash-;
loncd so picturesquely. China silk, lib- j
erty chiffon, chiffoiiettc and nun's veil
tng are the materials most In use. The
models for the greater part are as elab?
orate in design as a ball gown and
equally fanciful.
Every woman knows the luxury of a
loose garment though she Call to appre?
ciate the artless grace, long lines and
flowing breadths, which is not probable.
Jack dropped in the other day on his
way to l8llp just to tell me of an adora?
ble young matron who had come into
his presence cluthed in a kimono. Me
was somewhat startled, lie admitted, aa
tin- person in question is a stickler for
propriety. I explained It was quite per?
missible for her so to do. Jack's rejoin?
der wns positively shocking, and left me
debating whether or not I should cancel
my order for half n dozen negligees or i
?tick to my colors. "I understand," said ;
he, "that nn she can't wear party frocks1
all day. the siren would blaze the path
to perdition in even more seductive rai?
ment." After all, this cynical speech, ns
I read between the lines, indicates ad
inlratlon, and I fancy I'll put him to
the test Monday in one of white china
tilk made over i"se. He's fond of white,
and rose in his favorite color.
This particular ten gown is copied
from nn old wattenu painting, with
f rlct .attention given to all details,
i ?.in the thront bang long, unbroken
lines of white silk, with a faint glow
from Hie rose lining showing through.
i'i neniltrnnsparenl folds. At the back
u vntlenu plait begins t|iilte narrow to
;v :dually grow [-.realer after the waist
Is pnss d. endluR In a wisp train l'.d
rds long. The < mire lower edge of
? sown Is bo:derod by a fitted flounce.
l'hily rippling, which Is so cleverly
? mb ncd \ Hi ti.e upper portion of the
r.armcnt t. at one must tnke out a
search warrant to discover the dividing
line. \'< Ih ? back a liny l:-.?e trimmed
bolero hugs the figure, twit! itt the front
an tiinple fichu drapery knots at the
hui . line to lull :u sweeping ttole ends.
Ti e very tight slei ves and flounce are
r.' roll figured in point U'esprlt Insertion,
edged with vnlcru'lenittin luce. 1 truni I
shall not be n< U conscious in my new
lorgcry. for that is the ono tiling which
pro\ ol,"s Jn< k Into hi lug obstinate, and
In such i "mi l couldn't hope f>-r the1
uorahlpful regard girls In new tea
towns ahtlclpnlc.
The luei ct-aro !s apparent in nn ox
?lt.iv te ii ? ll-.ei. callerA it I the sWullevt
shops h "botuh Ir frocl;." Thin comes
dlitct from n temple of fnstvon in the
Kue do la l'ai:: an?' vorllhbly a thing
of beauty, u I: ? mpoacd of white chlf
fonette, with n tunic effect. Double
ruffles of chiffmi itte fall below an over,
drapery >-f brusRols tict, on which ap?
pear In applique bull >tu oak leaves.
The silk foundation fits the form per?
fectly, ami the lace tunic fulls uway
from it. Through this lace lattice, as It
were, the outline or the figure makes
almost aB fascinating u study as Barse's
"End of Day." Jeweled medallions fall,
girdlewlse. In front to confine u bit of
fullness at the waist. A fluff of net and
a few loops of 3atin ribbon are coquet
tlshly placed on the stock, at the bust
and hero and there on the many pointed
HIuo nun's veiling cut en princesse,
with an overdrapery of spoiled muslin,
ruflled In plain organdie, lace edged,
was somewhat lacking In elegance, but
not in style or grnee and was the exact
counterpart of the gorgeous frock just
described. If I had money, I'd own be?
fore nightfall a glorious satin tea dress,
in which 1 should at once art ay myself.
It Is of liberty satin in bowknot design,
printed In big nosegays of roses and
lilacs in natural colors cnrelessly en?
twined The scheme is directolre coat,
with deep yoke of Ehtrred moussellne,
and elbo>v sleeves likewise treated. A
low drapery, nrranged to produce the
sloping shouldcis, enda in rosettes and
a cascade. Tnv coat part describes a
deep point, and from beneath It falls
the long train In a series of fan plaits.
Nearly all huus-; gowns are supplied
with jeweled belts, but It is optional
with the wearer whether they shall be
used or discarded, us they are an en?
tirely independent adjunct and In no-]
wise necessnry.
Kimonos have Indisputable right of
wuy and are made of cotton, silk o:
wool. Some are cut quite full; others
arc planned on the typicnl Japanese
principle and barely pull togethei. Thi
former are more comfortable, the lattci
more picturesque. Many of the les>
-elaborate negligees arc-opened kimono?|
like down the front und vary in thi |
matter of construction very little from j
the original. 1 saw one of tins chara?;- |
tor in Rrny nun's veiling which had ;
tucked yoke extending over the tshoul
der, with long, bell sleeves. sAowin: !
shorter underslceves bound in ycllov
satin galloon. The whole was mounted
on white nun's veiling edged in yellow
chenille cord: in other words, the kl
mono was double and reversible. Tip
nathmal costume of our friend the In
dustrious little Jup maiden was best
demoi itrnted in dark blue china sill
patterned in huge geometrical figure:
of red. with Which cole* It was lined
ami bordered.
? ine of the most effective cf ^11 th.
morning gowns shown me at madame'r
was u rcdlngote negligee of striped gren
adinc with n lingerie front. No oppor?
tunity is lost to reveal the fact that un
deraleevcH will abide with us, during th<
heated term nt least.
(dd time chlntr., as ir.ny In coloring n:
the- summer butterlly is on the market
at 15 cents a yard and is particular!}
pretty for kin.on,-, making. Plain whiu
mwn associated with bands of colored
muslin, chrysanthemum figured, builds
a delightfully cool ;i:iu attractive loung
i;>^ now it.
I Though other colors have announced
themselves very emphatically since tin
beginning of the season, blue still re?
mains the conquering hero with slight
variations. Instead of the vivid color
at first introduced we have the soft
shades better suited to the season, such
as pastel, gentian and Mediterranean.
Pearl gray, green and heliotrope is the
latest color combination to excite fa
; vorable comment.
j Hats of a rather modest tone are
, temporarily winning golden opinions.
The straw which composes many of t'?e
new ones Is responsible for their beau?
ty. One made of black and gold straw
hnd no trimming except a clump of sul?
phur colored marguerites and a cbou
of green tulle placed directly in front. '
Toques are the favorite headgear. I 1
' say this without fear of contradiction,
j To be up to date they must be broadly
! built and may be lifted in front or have
? some slight trimming tucked under the
j brim, livery woman of fashion is buy
' ing her toque by the yard. The secret
of success lies in the toque being exact?
ly suited to. each woman's style of beau?
ty, so milady purchases the fancy straw
in lengths and has it manipulated into
a chapeau to measure. Tuscan straw
Is both decorative and lestlng;, while In
most of the fancy sliaws loosely woven
I mother FLORENCE \
f of the ???5 *
red cross 'vs NIGHTINGALE I
7 ?
At the close of a grant war of our
own, witJi a congress of the nations In
session whose object is to abolish wars
forever, with the English people rejoic?
ing over the celebration of the 79 birth?
days of the woman who haa done more
a shining halo and transferred to can
vns the radiant visage of a young ser?
aph. To Rubens, whose ideal ranged
through various substantial aspects of
adipose tissue, or n Titian, who saw lit
the beauty of woman only nn opportu?
nity to empty bis color box, the charm?
ing maiden would never have been an In?
teresting type, but Michael Angelo, who
studied lines, would, with Intuitive eye.
have taken his block of marble and,
mallet In hand, have given us thai face
again In the likeness of a young Chris?
tian martyr.
Perhaps tlie soulful, elusive beauty
of the pure./pale face owed something
to the Intluences that had surrounded
i Its infancy. Horn in the beautiful city
n ornate designs serviceable qualities
re lacking.
Parasols match hats In color and are
10t lavishly trimmed. Some few show
straw braid as a trimming, but usually
he sunshade is not decorated. There
ire those who will always cling to the
luffy affairs which frame the fnce so
ret illy, and for them inside lace ruflles
in delicate linings arc an irresistible
einptatton, so beauteous they are, even
hough expensive. White mnrselllea
imbrcllas with very much bowed
antes and brown .sticks appeal strong
?? to the novelty hunter.
The black satin coat has reappeared,
his year it is cloth trimmed. There Is
o outer garment which I tan so cheer
illy recommend ns always being a rou?
ble stand by for day or evening wear.
Have n dressy black Jacket by all
means. It need not necessarily be of
satin: taffeta or even ladles' cloth will
do. The out of date black taffeta skirt
rould readily be fashioned into the coatee,
either tucked all over or simply stitched.
A block coat white satin lined is a
treasure In any woman's Bummer ward?
?Tn machine stitch silk, thin material
or any sincle thickness of white cloth
place a strip of paper under the line to
be stitched and pull It away when the
work is done. The result la most sat?
isfactory, ns the stitching will be found
uniform and not drawn. This hint for
amateur dressmnkcrc I learned of lest
week while nettling the difficulty be?
tween n net frock and n rebellious sew?
ing machine. DAISY MAY.
than any living creature to rob war of
some of Its horror, It Is especially Inter?
esting to recall tho fact that Florence
Nightingale, old and bedridden, ia still
a potent factor in modern philanthrop?
ic methods of caring for the sick. Out j
of the darkened room in London go
words that have n value perhaps not
now Intrinsic, because her methods are
not modern methods, but because they
were tittered by Florence Nightingale,
the idolized angel of the English hospi?
tals, the founder of the Red Cross snei
cty and the modern system of trained
More than threescore years ago. one
pleasnnt summer day, among the pic?
turesque hills of Derbyshire, England,
two equestrian figures might have been
seen cantering Idly along, laughing and
chatting or stopping to look out over
of landscape. One figure, on a smart
pony, wns that of a very young girl, al?
most a child; the other wns that of an
elderly man, clerical in appearance an 1
manner. The sweet, pale face of the lit?
tle girl was one that would attract at?
tention only among those to whom spir?
itual beauty is the highest type of love
I llness. Raphael or Fra Angellco would
'have encircled the soft brown hair with
f ^"|OMEDONK8. Kick heads or grubs.
7 I .~>o called, nre n disorder <>f the seba
T \J ccoms glands, consisting of the reten
t t i??11 ?r sebaceous matter, character
? ir.cd i>y yellowish or blackish pin point
7 or pin bend elevations, corresponding to
f i lit- orifices of the glands. The trouble
t vrlth Uncle li"i!i)s is usually about ihe
? forehead, nose and ehln, and they may
t be scattered or in groups. A large num
? her of the black bends on the. face give
f to it a dirty, unwashed nppea ranee.
7 Lateral pressure will force out the se
7 baci oua innlt< r i;-. u threadlike form, rc
7 sembllng n worm. The outer end of this
f s S-lack and has given rise to the term
j black heads on account of their dls :olor
f a lion, which Is flUc to chemical changes
7 causi d In the S< baceoua mutter by ex
t posure m the air or by i'ie accumulation
7 of dust in Ilse mouth of th- duct.
? The causes ?r this trouble are sluggish
7 liver, troubles of digestion, chlorosis and
? scrofulous conditions. Tin? Infrequent
7 use of soap by those who have oily
? skins favors the growth of black heads.
{Sometime* they are the result of work"
? Ing In n dirty, dusty or smoke laden at
7 m< sphere, of riding on a b cyclo or any
? thing that lends to choke the ducts.
? Toe treatment is simple. Several
t nft ? ?> s v. ill g inerally accomplish n eure.
JThe :> m should ho i>y contitutlonal
treatment to remove the predisposing
I cause. Vor this purpose a good tonic
? should he lak'en?Iron, for instance. Kx
I ternal treatment sbonM he combined
fwith this and is. in fact, Indispensable,
as In most cases the black heads will
. v!< -d only to local treatment. Do not
{'remove the black heaela by pressure of
ii the Piiger or a Watch k. y, as many sug
. Rest, lor each time you press the gland
i you bruise It and cause H to inllame.
, really poking the condition worse, in
, stead he faces of those afflicted with
.black heads should he thoroughly wash?
ed every night with warm water and
, pure olive oil soap, afterward using a
ii good face lotion.
i, Onlv when the bin k heads are very
i large and stay obstinately In their places
. Is it ev.-r allowable to use the watch
nkey. After It has hern used some rotir
i ing cream should be placed on the
, bruised spot from widen the diseased
,'v .?-?-?.???*??-???-?-?-?-?-?-?-?-?
sebaceous mntter has Peon pressed. Ot-7
ten hliick leads will yield lo the use of!
a good soap, warm ?Vater and a Turkish
toweling washcloth, alter using which'
cold cream Is put upon the face.
It Is absurd to imagine that n face
scrubbing brush will remove black
le ads. The soap, warm water, wash rag"
nr.d cold cream Will du more good than
a thousand brushes.
When it Is absolutely necessary to no-'
ccpt the watch key m eradicating a'
large black head. Il should be Used with
Ihe utmost care. The key must he
grasped In the fingers and pressed firmly
downward. When the obstruction has'
been removed, retiring cream should l>?
pieced over the opening of the glund.
To remain permanently free from
black heads it l.^ a good thing to observe'
properly hygienic rules- Cnrefulrfess in
regard to diet Is essential. The fewer
sweets and the less pastry eaten the
better for the skin. Those who con-'
sumo rich food are more likely to be
irouhled with black heads than those'
who eat wholesome, simple food. Hot
rich soups highly seasoned dishesi or
cheese should he avoided, and In their
place pleiitv of fresh vegetables and'
fruits should he partaken of and any-'
thing likely to cause Indigestion avoid
od. for this is often the root of black
Acne. too. Is often partlnllv the rer ili
of Indigestion. To remedy this the diet'
should be looked after. Either with or
before breakfast a saueerful of slewed'
prunes should bo eaten and the 1u!o- aft?
erward drunk, r lira eaten plentifully
me ulso good. Before breakfast always<
eat an orange or an apple and li:- same
before retiring at night. The eating of
gingerbread is a r.ood tb'ns for thosi
troubled with acne. Tuke ptentv of ex-1
erelse; a sedentary life is bad for uny
one. ,
; of Florence In Hint very month of flow?
ers thai had given Alflerl blrlh and had
seen the martyrdom of n Savonarola, it
may be that the stars which had molded j
their fates were at that hour high in
j the nsrendant, for in her character
I ther.'> has always been something of the
i sensitive, imaginative quality of the one
and the Arm, tearless, devout seif abne?
gation of the other.
All of this was uhthought of by the
i merry two who guided their way
j through the oaks and maples and
! birches. Suddenly the little girl's chat
i ter was silenced. In the distance she
saw an old Scotch shepherd labotiously
looking niter his sheep,
j "Why, Hoger, where Is your dog?"
'asked the child ns they rode upto him,
' nnd the old fellow, taking off Iiis hat,
I wagged his head mournfully.
I "lie's done for, missy, and I'm that set
' to about it I scarce know what to do.
, You see, the boys was throwing stones,
and some of them hit him. I'm lliink
. log of putting him out of his misery to
; night, for his leg's broken, and he'll
never be of use again."
"7'oor Cap!" said the girl, the tears
coming to her gray eyes, for the dog
; had been one of her friends. "Oh. Hog
, er! How could yon leave bun alone In
I his pain?" l>o tell me wli ire ho is."
"You can't do any gond. missy," the
j old shepherd said sorrowfully; "Hut
lie's lying in the shed, over there."
! Tie- old vicar, whose companion she
' sometimes was. ns today, on visits to
j the peer, followed her to the shed,
where sh^ was sonn kr. ellng beside the
! moaning animal, soothing and caress
j ing it.
< "is there nothing we run do for him?"
she asked, looking up tit the vicar, who
i was sumeiiurg <d' n physician and hail
: been hastily examining the wounded
? It isn't broken?only rwollen." he
' said judicially. "What it needs is the
: application of hot compresses."'
j "If .. ?.ti li tell me how. I'ni sure I could
I attend to it. I'm so fend of Cap, you
! know," she pleaded through her tears,
j The vicar did explain, and that sum?
mer afternoon Florence Nightingale un?
dertook her inst ease. The dog got bet?
ter, ana Miss Florem c of the Hall
achieved such a reputation as a nurse
i that when a bird was found with a bro?
ken wing or n ?log or a cat was hurt n
: messenger would be sent tor the young
'girl, who. dropping everything, would
.hasten away to soothe or heal,
j on so smai! a thing as the thoughtless
cruelty of some country boys t??-a shep?
herd's dog did the care.r of Florence
Nightingale turn. Her fathor. a man of
I wealth nnd gentle birth, was proud of
her talents and brain, and she was edu?
cated thoroughly in lines in which even
today well bred young Indies are not re?
quired to attain proficiency. She spoke
j several languages fluently ar?d was a
flhc musician and artist,
i When she was older, the family went
I to London, where the two daughters
were presented nt court and I took their
' placo in society. Flounce' however,
was noticeably Interested lu hospitals
and hospital work.
Before the end of her flr3t season
Miss Nightingale had In a measure
withdrawn herself from social life. Her
time was devoted to going about among
the hospitals and charitable Institutions
In London. She soon discovered the In?
efficiency of the majority of those who
nursed the sick. Those were the days
of Salrey Gamps, and her mind, active
in its sympathies ami philanthropy,
reached out for a plan that might rem?
edy this defect. She saw in continental
countries the trained sisterhoods of the
Catholic church carrying on their noble
work with all the advantages of expe
rience and trained skill. When she
heard of what was a unique organiza-1
tion nt the time?a sisterhood of Prot- ]
estant nurses at Kaiserworth, on the I
Rhine?Miss Nightingale, full of onthu
siasm, Journeyed thither to learn of
these good women what she could of
their methods and system. After stay
Ing with them for a time she came back
to London eager to put Into practice
some of her newly acquired knowledge.
There was n homo for superannuated
governesses which was sadly in need of
financiering and better management.
This Miss Nightingale took up as her
first task. She gave up her luxurious
surroundings, the society of congenial
and cultivated friends, nnd with all the
ardor of a new Joan of Arc threw her
self Into the work of caring for the poor i
and sick. That she succeeded in res- ;
cuing the Governesses' home from dis?
aster and oblivion goes without saying.
It stands today a prosperous institution
at 47 Hartey street. London.
The undertaking proved too mhoh for
the always delicate constitution of Miss
Nightingale, nnd she was after awhile
compelled to return to her beautiful
home at Lea Hurst to win back health
nnd strength among the beech groves
she loved so well.
The work for which Florence Nigh tin- j
gale had been born came to her then,
perhaps because, herself weak and suf?
fering, she was the better able to tin- |
derstund the pain of others. Philoso?
phers of the Schopenhauer school say I
that tho quality and depth of our own
sympathy are in the ratio of our own '
The whole of England wns ringing
with the suffering of the English sol?
diers In the hospitals in the Crimea.
Public Indignation had reached a h gh
pitch, yet the ltritlsh authorities seemed
unable To mend matters.?Srr?S.i due>
Herbert of the war department knew
Miss Nightingale, and at last he said.
"It Is woman's work, nnd there is one
woman In England who can set this
right!" He sat down and wrote to Miss
Nightingale. At the same time, so that
their letters must have crossed in the
mnlls, Miss Nightingale had written a
letter offering her services to tho gov?
ernment .and saying that she thought
the soldiers needed good nursing, such
as women alone could give them. There
was in those days no stu b thing as a
Red Cross society or trained nurses.
l>f course, w hen her services were ac?
cepted all her friends were aghast:
they said her going to Crimea was un?
womanly, foolish and a useless sacrifice.
"The real dignity of a gentlewoman,"
said M'.ss Nightingale lu reply, "is a
very high and unassailable thing and
which silently encompasses her from
her birth."
It Is now an old story of how she In
six months Infused system nnd human?
ity Into the unspeakable arrangements
of the hospitals of Scutari, In which she
superintended the care of 1S.000. an nr- j
my of the sick nnd dying. There was '
no laundry, no kitchen for the proper
preparation of food, no systematic care,
filth and decay everywhere, lack of
food, medicine, beds and furniture?In .
fact, lack of everything. No wonder,
ns the pale.sweet faced Florence Night?
ingale, who had brought order out of
this chaos, passed with her candle on her
nightly round of the hospitals, the he
roes of Balaklnva and of inkerman
would lift themselves on their elbows, i
in spite of the pangs of wounds ot fe- j
vor, to kiss the spot where her shadow j
had rested. It Is an old story, too, of !
how the whole English line burst into a
Wild cheer as the Blender, black robed
figure of the Angel of the Trendies j
walked coolly out among the Russian |
bullets and shells before Sevastopol he- |
cause she saw some one that she could
; help nnd perhaps save. And when at
lust rebellious nature, after 20 hours of
tireless work each day, luid the fragile
hands in quietness for awhile not only
I the Crimea and England, but the whole
civilized world, waited in nwe until the
j word was sent out that she w ould 'oe
I spared yet awhile from that choir invis?
ible to which it had seemed that she
was Imperatively called.
I When the war was over and after two
'years the time came for bei to leave the
great barrack hospital, England wished
to give her a public welcome, but such
a thing was alien to her taste and was
avoided by the heroine slipping into
England unexpectedly under an as
i sinned name and declining to come out
of her retirement at Lea Hurst. Only
the command of her sovereign to visit
her at Balmoral could induce her to
leave home, and after Victoria had
thanked her In the name of the English
people and decorated her with a splen?
did medal she went back to Derbyshire.
The two years o.f work in tho east had
permanently Injured her health, and
since then she has been more or less of
an Invalid. A fund of S.'iO.OOO which C.ie
t English people presented to her was ac?
cepted and was nt once devoted to the
founding of n training school for nurses,
which is known ns the Florence Night?
ingale School For Nurses. It was the
j first of Its kind. Her work in the Cri?
mea led to the organization ot the Red
Cross Society, which has clone so much
for the suffering In war and peace.
Although an Invalid, Miss Nightingale
found a way to write two books on the
subject of nursing, and her advice,
sought by the war departments of every
country, hns been the basts of modern
hospital and ambulance work In time of
An old woman of 79, she lies secluded
from the world In her home In South
street, London. She Is Just passing an?
other birthday as another war closes.
Inadequate as our hospital arrange?
ments may have ben, they were per?
fection compared with those that pre?
vailed in the Crimea. And, us congratu?
lations pour in to Florence Nightingale
from all over the world. It would be only
u proper tribute to the heart and brain
which have done so much to make war
less horrible for America to send across
the water to her a message of love v
remembrance, for soon, above the noises
of wars, the "taps" must sound that for
Florence Nightingale will end all
thought of battles forever.
The etiquette of card Paving Is really
quite simple, but. nevertheless. It Is
often misunderstood.
Young girls do not have cards of their
own, but share those of their mother,
under whose name their own appears.
When a girl is no longer young enough
to require chaperonage. she has a card
to herself. And the same thing bap
pens In the case of the young lady jour?
nalist or other professional woman. A
large number of her visits would be on
matters of business, when chaperonage
would not be required, and. therefore,
her mother's name on her card would
be quite out of place.
Only when making a business call
should one ever send in a card by the
servant, but It would be qultp correct
to do this when calling on an editor or
publisher at his ofTice or when calling
on n lady to ask for the character of a
I\ P. C. and P. D. A. written on the
cards seem to puzzle some people. These
initials stand for "pour prendre conge''
and "pour dire adieu" and signify that
the owner of the cards desires to say
goodby. It is customary, when one is go
Ing away for any lei 1 gth of time, to leave
or send these cards to one's acquaint?
ances. They may be sent by post, if de?
When paying a call, a married lady
would leave two of her husband's cards
and one of her own on a married cou?
ple if she found the mistress of the
house out. if she saw her, she would
merely place a couple of her husband's
cards In the hall on leaving the house.
A gentleman's card is never left on a
young unmarried lady, und in no case
should he ever turn down the corner
of his card, for there might be some
young ladies In the house, and It would
be thought that he meant his card for
them. The signification of the turned
down corner is that the card is intend?
ed to include all the ladles of the fam?
A daughter often leaves cards for her
parents, but she lets her brother do his
card leaving for himself. Motherless
young girls have their names on the
cards of the aunt or any relative who
chaperons them, or. if they are living
nlone with their father, their names are
printed on his card beneath his own,
the card in this case being the size of a
lady's visiting card. Young sisters liv?
ing together and chaperoning them
selves would have "The Misses Dash"
on a card, which would include aa many
of the party ns were out.
Cards are left after nearly all enter?
tainments except garden parties, but
these should be left In person and not
sent through the post. Except nfter a
dinner party it Is not necessary to ask
whether the hostess Is at home. It Is
quite sufllclent to hand In the cards to
the servant, saying, "For Mrs. Blank."
Card leaving Is chiefly practiced
among mere acquaintances, real friends
being less ceremonious in the matter.
The small minded woman gives great
Importance to little matters and has a
way of dressing up Insignificance in an
obtrusive garb till after a time she be?
gins to seriously believe it is as impor?
tant as she has made It appear. When
she arrives at that stage, her mental
state is a misery not only to nerseit,
but to other people. She may be an en?
ergetic, economical housewife and a
loving wife and mother, but for all that
the home over which she presides will
be almost unbearable, so trilling w ill be
the mental and spiritual atmosphere
she has created there. Duty by her Is
not merely faced, but becomes an in?
strument of torture, and the work and
service of daily life, which might be
done cheerfully, is made a heavy task
to herself and others by her slavish de?
votion to unimportant details.
Even huge minded women lose their
sense of proportion when they are over
worked and exhausted, physically and
mentally, and decline to take proper
test und recreation. If only our home
makers would realize the importance of
even a half hour's absolute rest In the
day, what a difference it would make
to the happiness of life.
If, when the tired hands and body
I were resting, the mind were occupied
i with good and pleasant thoughts, how
much the better and wiser a woman
would become. It would be well, there?
fore, for her to spend that resting time
In the company of some good book by
; one of her favorite writers. It is per
i fectly astonishing how much richer one
j is for the thoughts of good and noble
people, and one can find these within
j the covers of many of the books which
we rarely lift from their places, perhaps,
'except to dust their.?Shakespeare. Ten?
nyson. Rusk In and even many a pros*
. work of fiction.
In Crete a curious custom exists. A
1 number of young men of a village
: choose from among the girls one whom,
with the consent of their parents, they
make the head of their fraternity. The
i occasion is solemn as well as festive.
The youths nre arranged In a clrcls
? round tt^elr chosen queen by the priest,
who holds a religious service and finally
dismisses the assembly with his bless
, ing.
I From henceforth the girl Is sister t?
the young men. who regard one anothei
as brothers bound by an o*th to pro
tect her from harm. Lovemaklng be
tween the girl and her adopted brothers
is not to be thought of. for she is so
much their sister that not one of then*,
might marry her.

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