Newspaper Page Text
"xtravngancc the Keynote of the New Dress Expensive Mate rials Sumptuous Velvets Iiich Purs Ostrich and Mara bout Feathers A7ariously Used Padded Embroideries Stand Out in Bold Belief Rovers, Vest, foliar, Cuffs and Skirt All Share in the Extravagance of Trimming Frivolous Little Basquincs Postilion Backs And Hints and Adaptations From the Dress of a Century Ago. It will require a purse with n goodly lining of currency nnd very elnstle strings. Indeed, In order to lie gowned In 'he first flight of fashion for tin- social -'enson Just opening. All thr small economics of dress seem to he swept to one- side, nnd nn ern of ex. Irnvagance nnd clahoratlon has opened nn In their stead. It seems ns though the makers of the mode had exerted their Ingenuity to the end of seeing Just how much 'miterlnl they could artistically employ to the 'nshlonlng of n gown, nnd Ihcti sat their wits to work to devise ways nnd means whereby this excess of material could lie most extravagantly trimmed, nut and here Is where the unskilled or Inoxperl enced dressmaker will meet her Water no the coal of all this elaboration nnd cxtrnvagnnco Is nn nppenrnnce of slin. pllclty. t'nder no circumstances must he gown so fashioned nnd trimmed np. pear to lie overloaded with decoration, rtather must It appear as though tl trimming scheme were quite nn accident. nrt that the happy result wr-i merely a 'lever thought upon the. part of the de signer. The velvet gown Is really the acme of lumptiions elegance, when fashioned after .he accepted mode. liven the less ex. riensp velveteens nnd those are de lightfully soft and artistic In coloring this season, with tho additional charm of proving absolutely fnRT tnt ,, cnaranteed not to rub off on ilellculc cloves or lores n HI serve beautifully as i back-ground for Ihe elaborate trimming tevlccs that aio really the making of the lock. The- same sheer nnd nlmost limp weaves hat the manufacturers presented us with last season me still quite the aocoplod thine, Hi spile of the fact that most of the new sliks are nil of them much less Unify than heretofore. While stiffness Is baldly the word to npplv lo those lllken fabrics, there Is, noi crtholoss, more oo.ly and moie stability to tho weave than last season's goods presented. I. In Ins silks-, such as the taffetas, nrcbeda llks and the silk nnd linen mixtures hat appear so often In Impelled gowns lie all of them of Midi quality ns to nf .ord a goodly support to the sheer ma. lerlal that still nibs for the outer dress While the woman of f.lshlon will nc tppt.tlio dlctimi nnont tho new shirt cngth, with Us many Inches sweeping lilt; iloor, her sister of more moderate menus will doubtlesH rebel against a vogue Hurt lessens the service of a gown nnd makes for Increased cleansing bills Vone. the less, the best dressmakers nre rislstlug upon quite n marked t nil no to frocks of a formal or semlfornial Intent, nd It Is only In the plain tullor mnde thut "goes to mill and lo meeting" that the short skirt Is even toleuited. As though to emphasize the difference, there ' qillli! a tendency on tho part nf the tailor to cut tlilh skirt even a trifle shorter llinii heretofore, although doubtless tho very smait styles In footwear have more than n llttlo Irilluciieo upon tills ques tion, A dainty cut to u shoo and smart liken hosiery nre necessary wheio tho new walking skirt Is concerned, since tho nukle Hither than the Instep Is the focus Hint guides the tailor when deciding upon the length, Irish crochet nnd .the padded embroider ies thut the Irish peasantry make lo such perfection are chnrmlilgly iipproprlato upon tho colleen poplins thut Hud such favor abroad. For dinner gowus those rn In high esteem, and tho slightly ribbed surface, with Its lustrous sheen, throws up both Ince and embroidery to the utmost art van I ago. Jacket bodices are malting a strong hid for favor, and since they afford a charm ing chance for the most lavish elaboration the reason for their acceptance Is not far to rck, nor hard to find. The best of those present frivolous little basquincs that nre tacked on nt almost any point below the bii't, and that Hare smartly out from the body. Quite as oflen as not those little basquincs aro continued In the back nnd extended Into postilion effects. Where the gown Is Intended merely for afternoon wear tho--e are lift plain, merely being lined with some dainty silk nf a harmon izing tint, with icihaps a piping along the edge. Hut when iidaptrd to a frock o! formal Intent the postilion back Is ens ealled with plisse chiffon, tulllne, or lace, and appliques or embroideries of hand work nre posed In their cenleis. Fntlrcly dependent upon the height and carriage of Hie nearer Is the length of the back of those charming co-its or Jackets or bodices, or whatever one ehoocs to call them. They may reach qullu to the hem of the long-trained skirt, or they may end nt some quarter of a yard below the waist lino, .lust whatever will prove most be coming Is coirect. In the reaching out after extravagant elaboration the designer nf today mnkes U'e of wellnlgh everything that may pos slbly be turned to iliessy account. Ostrich feathers nnd marabout appear in what might formerly be consldeied queer con nections. Tor example, the decolletage of a Huffy frock In white tulllne Is delhied with n band of tho palest blue marabout, this brought down In n bins strap to end In Ihe deep swathed celnture of pale blue satin. Fach one of tho four fluffy flounces on the skirt disclose n similar border, n III tie spray that stands up after the order of n hussar plume Is stuck In tho coiffure, and the Muttering fan is altogether of pale blue ostilcb and marabout combined, while Instead of sleeves there are merely three drooping blue ostrich lips on each shoul der. Fur trimmings nre scheduled to appear on both cloth and velvet gowns, nnd It Is no uncommon thing to run ncross models for evening wear In which white satin nnd snides, palo pink nnd beaver, brown spangles and mink nre cleverly contrasted, the heavy fur making the gown, the wearer, Ihe entire mlse en scene In which It Is worn take on nn aspect of added luxury nnd extravagance. lluttons and buckles form another Item of expense that cannot well bo avoided where the Inter modes are followed. All sorts of extravagances nre possible here, from the plain horn button Hint decorates tho tailor-made up to the elaborately cut aud Jeweled disc that appears on the smart dinner or bridge cout. The artist metul worker and this Is n Held of de sign which many women have taken up nnd found exceedingly profitable displays the most fetching effects, nnd where cost Is not n consideration some' beautiful re sults can be achieved In their use on cont or gown. Headed buttons displaying Dres den designs wiought out In natural color Ings am tho tiniest beads are a smart fad of the moment, and they seem equally ap propriate upon almost any fabric. Fashion and the Furrier. Cosily Itusftlun Sables. The all-saving art of the furrier that lets no scrap of n costly fur go to waste makes ii modish use of the full sablo skins, ns depleted In the Illustration. Here there arc six full skins of .this little animal cleverly mounted to flat scarf shapo, the skins not being flat-split, hut employed In their natural roundness. It requires six full Bklns to make this design, and when one considers that a thousnud dollars for a single fine skin Is not by nny menus n record pi Ice, the value of a smart set In rabies can readily be reckoned. Tho little beads and tallB are used complete, and even the little paws with their curved claws like u kitten's hang either side of tho bend nnd tail. The muff Is of the lint pouch shape, narrow at the top to widen somewhat toward thp bottom, where n fringe of alternate tails and paws makes for bp effective finish. The accompanying chnpeau depicts one of the broad-brli'inied styles nf the 1)1 rectolre period. The high crown Is en swathed In n soft chiffon moire silk, nnd the.brlm curves up artistically nt the side, with n wealth of while plumes nodding over the edge. .lust n mere suspicion of n handrail Is used nt tho left side, and the shape conforms more to the size of the head than many recent ones have done. In noyul Krmlne. Last season It was the snowv white ermine that was demanded nf the fur riers hut so skilfully was that Imitated In the cheapest kind of pelts that nown days Ilame Fashion demands the eruilne that shows a slightly yellowish cast throughout, thus making a virtue of what was formerly considered a blemish. A right royal set Is (hut pictured herewith. Tho long stole Is narrowed ut tho neck portion, so that it sots well around tho throat without any clumsiness or undue thickness, nnd below that' point It bro.id ens gradually to the iwnlstllue, where whole skins are nppiled Hat and trimmed with n fringe of little paws nnd tails. It really would seem ns though the ermine might be likened to tho cat-o'-nlne tails, for there certainly does necui to Im an undue allowance of those effect lee Mtti.i tails that slart yellow at the base aud ! ueepen into nineu at thp tip. One lull to ono ermine seems to, bo all too llttlo for fiiishlnu purposes, but blnco the, fur rier assures us that they nro nil genuine ermine tails there Is nothing to do hut agree with him. Tho muff shows that smart turnover effect that Is ono of tho Inter novelties, paws nnd tails being al ternated In proportion to their u.itural occurrence. In the World gf Dress. , Dainty Little Fashion Touches That Tell Much: nireetolro .Iiilmls are imported from Fiance In the daintiest of materials. Mine "if It'll than not lingerie styles are pre sented, and the best ef them come with out nny collar attachment They are In tended to be applied with n fancy pin Immediately below a high stock collar, ami they may take on the order of a short and Huffy piece, or exteud to cume wellnlgh to the waistline. Handkerchief llucu, Illicit batiste nnd the finest of French nainsook are em ployed, nnd much hand embroidery, Inser tions nnd edgings of tine real, laces, and somo old fashioned fellings, go to their elaboration. Inclusive shops nre display III; th' most fetching little lleras In this connection, and prices begin somewhere In the lelnlty of a five-dollar bill. Little lliilic-iily iinrt-N are fashioned of sheer batiste and Valenciennes lace, nnd nre Intended to be tucked Into the front of the high turnnicr linen collar that will be worn extensively this sen son In connection with the plain and secre type of shirtwaist that is to pre vail. Those same linen collars, Fovero us they nre lu outline, nre nevertheless made the medium of much decoration. Iliind-embroblcrles, tiny tucklngs, hem stitching and vclulrgs rbound; and It Is no uncommon tiling to see this shupe with the turnover pari altogether In point coupe, or tho cut-out woil; thut the Italian peasants so excel In. I'lio New Collar take a decided up watd turn right beneath the cars, and so serve as a frnnio for the race. It tnke.s qulto a knack "lb lit this shapo cor rectly, aud the little rods of fcatheihonu that we nro wont lo use -as collar sup. ports must be eniefully ndlusted, bo Hint exactly tho right -line under, tho ear, is maintained. The womnn It h a double chin will welcome this style, since It serves to nttrnet attention from tho blunted lino below the face. Jtlu clil no HtltclilMK Js making Itself extremely pfoirilneiit ns a tilmmlng effect nmong tho tnllor-mndus, All sorts of Intricate patterns nro seen In this, a coarse and heavy silk, occasionally In n shade to contrast with tho cloth back ground, yielding especially good results. Ou-aslvunlly b iu)teru Is cut out lu the cloth skirt, n coarse net applied under neath, nnd all the edges machine stitched to this, or else n deslgu Is cut out In cloth, silk or velvet nnd nppllqued to the skirt and Jacket, both by means of the sewing machine. I.entlier Trim ml urn remain in good standing for the walking nnd ulllllarlnn style of dress. One of the latest conceits In this direction employs leather as n background for marvelous patterns that are carried out In tiny silk cords nnd metallue threads, that are couched down on the skin Instead of being used 111 the ordinary fashion, A clever blending of colors makes for a wonderful effect In this direction, and ns the work Is rapidly done, It Is a temptation rather than otherwise to plan for several sets of vest, collar and cuffs all to match. IlraiilN ami llruidliiKa nre to experi ence a perfect furore this winter In all sorts of new nnd novel applications. On cloth nnd relict gowns, upon furs, nnd eveil upon chiffon, one sees braids of larylng typos used with n lavlkh hand. Itnrely Is one size or pattern lu braid nlone relied upon; but ns many as three or four nro deftly blended, so that the effect Is one of extreme elaboration, licit arc more elaborate and extravn gam than ever. Fmbroldered idiots, bilks, cloths and braids are well boned at back aud sides, to fasten with a buckle that Is deep inther than broad In front. I.lttle side blldes receive much attention, and the trimming of the back Is fully as Important ns that of tho front. Some New Shirtwaist aro made to fasten In' tho front, with an attached turnover collar of tho llyion pattern, A double initio of pleating of the goods ap pears either sldo of the front fiistcnlng, the buttons appearing In the center of i ho narrow box ideal that serves us a foundation for those Dliectnlio rullles. The collar and sleeve nro likewise fin ished with this rutile, and though sutli blouses come frmn tho best makers lu Fails, are all hand-mado and by no means Inexpensive, It must be confessed Hint they hear n close resemblance to gar ments of the liegllgeo typo rather than to u smnrt shirtwaist that may appeal 0:1 the Btrcet under 11 pretty IIlou or bolcio Jacket, ljjj The Attractions f Chinchilla. Ilccomlng nlmost as co.-t'y as Russian tables, chinchilla Is eien more modish than ever, despite the fact that It has beeu piomlncut for well nigh n decade. The delicate little skins' will not bear harsh Hear or handling, aud the color boon fades under the stress of usage. In spite of those diawbad.s, or majbe be cause of them, chinchilla Is to be worn by maid nnd matron alike, ami It will take n wcll-llllcd purse to meet l lie ie quliement of the mode in this costly fur. A charming set Is that Illustrated, In which chnpeau, scnif and mult nie all en suite. The hat is moderate lu s!.e, with a diuui-sliaped crown, and 11 bilm that rises bciouilngly at one side. A Until of white mallnelte Is posed oil the llieiltablu bandeau uuUer the brim' aud the foamy white leather ends lu a touch ol pule blue nt the tip. The naif has a shaped ueckplcio that sots flatly on the shuuhlers, ending In seeming loops that are tlcco luted with cold paFsenielitclies. To tills two pendant stialght pieces ule alladied that hang below the waist Hue. The muff is one of the latest shapes, with 11 small down curie in the 1 enter top, und u eleier manchon or cuff effect at the sides. This shape was especially In vented to meet the lequircmeiits of tho short sleeves mid long glows fad, and tets well up on the nuns, making up lor the lack ot Huruith that uhsbiuc of 11 bkeie piesouts. In Veil etccn mill Osliicli, ! A elevei blending of styles Is effected In this delightful costume, In which a niordoie, or rather 11 inaru'ii, brown id leleen Is contrasted with ecru broadcloth and 11 somewhat deeper shade of satin. The skirt Is built up In a simulated prlnce.sse stjle to the bust line, where It meets a yoko of elaborate L'iuny lace, lancy stltchcb iiuii chiffon. Uicr ;hli Is pn.sed a shoit-v, aisled Utile bolero that stands well out from the figure, uud by Its tulncss emphasizes the sleiiderness of the walsllliio that It bauly discloses. The lit at ihe waist and nhoie and below It Is effected In Ihe use of plculs, ihe material being folded on Itself to achieve me light cune and then cut away be ueath, so that tbero lu neither bulk nor duinslni s.s to pi me un.lcsli able. The lit tle lint bailor shape, while by 110 means new, Is still iclnltieil by those to whom It has liniiilahly proven hemming; uud It Is brought up to dale lu Ihe clever fashion In which the pliimea ate adjusted lo iocr the luck and fall gracefully on the hair. One of those novel flschu shaped pieces of fliHTy osttlch lu the piile.il shade of blue accoinpniile-s ihe lostiime, milling a loud! of e'eguuee In a gown already ilnlulllv elaborate. Only Ihe longest and the lullest Hues 111c possible III a plcie like this, uud the tost Is commensurate e lib ihe quality. Fluffy Effects in Ostrich Feather! Fur, and Marabout Cravats- Scarfs Stoles and Pelerines Meet Between Season Nond Fetching Little Muffs That Cor cenl Many a Convenience All-Fur Chapeaux Are to B Highly Modish. The toilette for the street, whether tne carriage or the promenade, Is no considered complete nntll some one or an other of those fetching, fluffy little noth Ings that the Parlslenne terms her toul de con (really and literally "trcuca thl neck") has been carefully poewl over thl Fhouldors and the hands thrust rarclessll into a frivolous-looking EmO" to match. Just a few short weeks ago tho outdool toilette seemed completo enough wlthonl this fetching addition, but so qclckly ll the eye educated to all that Is novel and attractive In fashion that now the figurl seems lacking In some essential until on J or another of those charming but expeul olre llt'Ie nothings Is added. That this is to be n marabout season there Is not even a shadow of a doubtl For several seasons smart women In Hngland and Franco hare showed a del ilded leaning to this extremely elfectlra and becoming piece of QuQlncss. As usual, however, we have been a trlfiq slow to adopt It generally on this side od the water, but. Its vogue once startedj It Is sure of a general and euthuslastld acceptance. Some pretty little crnvats are shown In this that follow the ver.v same design as the best furriers are putting forth Inl sable,, mink and ermine. The character-l Istle four-ln-hnnd knot Is shnped andl sown on permanently, and the other end! of the scarf Is slipped through this, fancy pin serving to hold It fastened. The Hat-shaped ostrich feather band! that makes such a frilly framing for coatl collar and curf takes on the most charm ing hues In Its new presentation. All ofl those elusive nuances of the color card, which ono finds nt their best in velvets! and satin-faced broadcloths of the chif fon variety, nre faithfully reproduced Inl the Hat Ostrich pieces. I hey really taktl on a semblance of n plume of exqulslttl quality Just laid flat on the collar andl pinned around the cuff, but n glance at I the reverse side shows a carefully! p.uldod ilbbon band, on which the plume, I iiulll and all. Is deftly sewn. Marabout and ostrich make an especial ly effective combination. Sometimes ouel sees the ostrich flues fringed lu at In- tervals In a marabout stole, making a I fringed line across the width of It. Tas sels of marabout are tipped with ostrich. aud fluffy little balls of the f-imer strung on a silver cord, are mut-j use us a finish. One sees nil of the delicate tints inl four ami live strand stoles that are I charming to throw around the houlderf I with an evening frock. When heavy lace, such as Irish crochet, polnte d aiguille, the Irish or the ltussiuii guipures, is used between the strands uu airy effect Is I attained that i.innoi full to charm In furs, with the fad for light colors and delicate Huts, there Is bound to liu much white fox, polar bear, ermlue, chin chllki nnd the gray caracul used. In white there are somo charming effects. I.oug stoles aud pelerines that nre point ed almost to the waistline in the back, mid cross oier to the left side In the front, to And a fastening, nud ctmrmlug I round boas, dotted with little made ani mal heads, are extremely modish for juuiig rolks. in white fox they nro espe cially effcctlie, the soft, long fur proving a beautiful frame for the race. In ermine and chinchilla and the shorler-hiiircd furs dainty to a degree are the designs that lire already accepted for the coming season's wear. There nre high military collars, that clasp closely around the throat, with pendant Jabotllkc pieces that nro trimmed with lace nud hills. I.Ike the little Dlreetolrc Jabots' that are described elsiwheto on this page, they may be short, coming Just but a few luches be low the throat, or they may exteud nl most to the waistline. Hut In either case there Is a muff of the most fanciful or der to match. And lu those same muffs there Is a de lightful variety to choose from, both as to size and style. There are flat, pouch shaped affairs, adorned with bundles nt teliet ribbon loops, caught with 11 smart buckle nud tacked loosely to tho front of the muff, either somewhat to oue side or lu the center. Others are down-curved In the center, to rise well at the sides, this shapo meeting the fad for loug glovet aud short sleeves, the frjll that llulshet the sides being likewise so shaped thai It runs well up on the nrm. Those, too, display their quota of trimming, lu which bilk tassels, ns well ns little pendant balls of the fur, are often promluent. The feather toque Is Just about us sun n visitor In the autumn ns the Indian summer Itself, They have many good qualities lo commend them, those little toques nnd turbans, not the least of which Is tluir compactness, their light ness, and, above nil, the artistic colorings lu which it Is possible now to obtain lliem.