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Amy Martin Household Editor ome * m K 5 * ■ mm I «S 3 This versatile young fashion can .be worn for school, church or play. It's a black and gold checked cotton dress styled with a cropped jacket of black cotton corduroy. :£: : Wv ttîvâïv Mi I [x ; : m M I >v & Now it's fashionable to wear patches! This novel patchwork skirt was made from plain and printed cotton feed and flour sacks, then accented with rows of rickrack. The unusual trim on the skirt of this red and blue checked cotton dress will place this pretty miss at the top of her class in fashion. Tapes of various kinds can produce this and similar effects. il ii x;i Ï: - : < . . I I I t 3 :T ^Jhe ^J^iniâliina ^Jouclt A STITCH IN TIME means a bright new wardrobe this fall. It's never too late or too early to plan what Susie and Junior or Mom and Dad will wear, especially if you want to save money by making the clofhes yourself. Recent issues of oattern books pic ture fall fashions and offer fabric sug gestions. Among inexpensive, washable cottons recommended for children's ciothes are broadcloth, pique, percale, gingham, Indian Head, polished cot ton. denim, and corduroy. Of all the fabrics now available in the market place, very few reach the consumer in the same condition in which they emerge from the many looms of the textile industry. Some of the finishes contribute to the ap pearance, some to the feel and many to the .final performance of the fin isned fabric. Fabrics that started out the Same may end up so different you would hardly think it possible. Chemical Finishes Added emphasis is being placed on the art and science of finishing. More and more chemical finishes are being used along with mechanical finishes. The primary purpose of these finishes is to improve the performance of the fabric . . . make it wrii.kleproof wa terproof, mothproof, permanently pleated, etc. When the first wash and wear gar ments came on th.e market they were far from satisfactory, as they could not be treated in the way the consumer had always treated her other wash. Now, however, with more research, better wash and wear garments, and consumer education, the wash and wear characteristic is not only accepted . . . it's demanded. Important in the fabric-finish field for many years has been shrinkage control. A process has long been used to control the amount of shrinkage in cottons, but now a process is possible to control the shrinkage of wools and rayons. Permanent Pleating And the permanent pleating was quite an innovation! It was first made pos sible with the introduction of thermo plastics, which can be heat set. Woven and knitted wools, as well as thermo plastics and cottons can now be per manently pleated to add an intriguing fashion touch to the scene this fall. Many of these fabrics are available in yard goods. Many fabrics have been treated with a new oil and water repellent finish, which makes them even more ideally suited for youngsters' wearing apparel. Stains from milk, fruit juice, gravy, and other such liquids can be removed in just a few seconds by blotting gently with a cleaning tissue or napkin. The finish will last through 11 to 12 wash ings and can be reapplied by a laundry or dry cleaner. Sewing for children can be lots of fun,' and in at least one respect, it is easier than making clothes for grown ups. Fitting is not quite so important since most children s clothes are de signed to hang loosely and to be. belted or sa shed in at the waist. Finishing . , , .. _ AP . touches, however, usually require more attention, since little girls' dresses gen erally call for collars and cuffs, but tons, and decorative trimmings such as rickrack or contrast binding. The same holds true for little boys' clothes. Decorative Accents This year popular pattern companies are placing additional emphasis on dec orative accents on fall fashions. These custom touches can be easily made if you'll apply the following tips: Rickrack. This washable cotton trim ming comes in midget, regular, and jumbo sizes and in a wide range of durable colors. To apply so that points on both edges show, draw a guide line on the right side of the fabric with pen cil or tailors' chalk. Center rickrack on line and stitch through center. For added decorative effect, use a zigzag or other fancy machine stitch instead of a straight stitch. Rickrack also may be attached to fabric by catching points on each side with decorative machine stitching. Rickrack with points on one edge showing may be used to trim collars, cuffs, and center front of garment. To attach, place rickrack between facing and garment when stitching seams. Bias Tape. Armholes, necks, pock ett, and skirts of children's clothes often are bound with contrast bias tape. To apply, open one fold of tape and baste on fold line to right side of fabric Vs inch to 3/16 inch inside seam allow ance. Stitch and cut away excess fab ric from seam allowance. Fold tape to wrong side and baste in place, making certain underside of tape is a deeper fold than top side. Top stitch on fab ric, not on tape, catching underside of tape. Use small machine stitches, matching thread to fabric, not to bias tape. Bias tape may be attached to fabric as a binding in one operation with zig zag or other decorative machine stitch. Fold tape over edge of fabric and baste in place, then top stitch. Rows of bias tape may be used to accent yoke or hemline of a dress. Top st'tch folded tape to fabric, using a zig decorative stitch. zag or When binding corners and scallops, stretch tape on outside curves and ease on inside curves. Miter all corners. This gold cotton broadcloth dress is for Sunday best or dress-up school affairs, Fancy embroidery decorates the skirt, whil /, ace edging on the bodice gives m bolero effect. »s M: > V $ m. 5ebf: ; M $ isjp m m ■x HI ■'X m s» ■> » Appliques. Many patterns show col orful appliques as pockets or decora tions on children's clothes. Applique designs may be transferred from pat tern tissue to fabric with a hot iron. Cut applique out, leaving a one-inch margin. Place cotton organdy or lawn under fabric to which applique is to be attached. Baste applique and backing into place. Outline applique with a zigzag or satin stitch. Cut away excess fabric from around applique and back mg. If your sewing machine doesn't have a zigzag or satin stitclj, edge of ap plique may be bound with matching or contrasting bias tape and top stitched into place. Decorative Stitching. New machines give you a wide selection of decorative st'tches which may be used in a variety of ways for trimming children's clothes. Before applying decorative stdehing, draw guide lines on right side of fabric with tailors' chalk. Also, use a backing fabric such as cotton organdy or lawn. Otherwise, stitching may pull fabric slightly. Expert Suggestions Sewing experts offer these other help ful suggestions: All trimmings on cotton fabrics should be cotton, so the entire garment will be washable. Light trimmings should be detachable. Trimmings and decorative stitching should be applied to pattern pieces be fore they are sewn together, not to the finished garment. Hems may be stitched in place when rickrack or bias tape is applied as trim around skirts Use heavy duty thread, a long ma chine stitch, and two rows of stitching when gathering full skirts or puffed sleeves. Pull both rows of stitching simultaneously. Belt loops are essential on children's ciothes. They keep belts from being lost and also make it easier for young tots to dress themselves. To make loop from self fabric, cut strip % inch wide and 3 /4 inch longer than width of belt. Place right sides of fabric to- , geiher and stitch Va inch from fold. Trim seam. Turn to right side. Center waistline strip over seam on the seam and sew top of strip in position, folding under raw edge. Attach bot tom of strip in the same way. Ü :> m I $ % Ä I m m - m The finishing touches on this little cot ton dress are an oversized bow and collar. It's perfect for the fall school days and would look very smart m any young owner. .